engine assembly for VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Removing the pistons from the cylinders

To carry out the work, we go to an inspection hole or overpass and prepare a set of tools:

• spanners;
• torque wrench (determines the degree of tightening of the bolt);
• mandrel for crimping rings;
• a set of feeler gauges for determining the gap.

Replacing piston rings on a VAZ 2109 begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. To provide access to the crankshaft from the pit, remove the lower crankcase cover. There is a gasket at the junction, it will need to be replaced with a new one. Using a 10mm wrench, detach the oil receiver from the main shaft cover and the oil pump housing.

Next, we detach the exhaust pipe from the bracket under the bottom. Since the bracket is also attached to the body, unscrew the fastening bolts. We bend the ends of the locking plates of the nuts that secure the exhaust pipe and the intake manifold. We unscrew these nuts, as well as the nuts on the clamp, and remove the clamp. Next, the receiving pipe and the resonator pipe must be unfastened. Access is open from below; all that remains is to unscrew the nuts of the connecting rod screws and remove the connecting rod caps so that the connecting rod can be knocked out from below.

We move under the hood. After unscrewing the nut and washer that secure the air purification filter, and unfastening the 4 clips, remove the filter cover. We take out the filter element and its housing. Then you need to disconnect the air intake hose and the pipe on the valve cover. To remove the valve covers, it is necessary to unscrew the nut securing the accelerator drive cable.

Next, remove the front timing drive cover, loosen the tension roller and tighten the belt. You can dismantle the camshaft pulley by prying it up with a screwdriver. Now your goal is to bend the rear cover away from the cylinder head so that the cylinder head comes out from under the end of the camshaft. To do this, unscrew the fastenings of the cover and water pump.

We take out the tips of the high-voltage wire of the spark plugs, disconnect the wire block from the distributor. By unscrewing two screws we remove the distributor cover with wires. To completely remove the distributor, disconnect the interfering hose from the vacuum corrector, unscrew the nuts, and remove the bracket. Then disconnect the fuel pump and carburetor hose and remove the fuel pump. Next, disconnect the thermostat hose clamps and dismantle this device.

To unscrew 10 cylinder head bolts, use a 10mm hexagon. After pulling out the bolts and washers, finally disconnect the cylinder head. We remove the sealing gasket and always replace it. We clean the upper surface of the cylinder block from oil, dirt deposits and traces of the gasket.

We move into the pit. And, lightly tapping with a hammer, remove the piston assembly with connecting rod from the cylinder. We repeat the procedure with the three remaining pistons.

Step-by-step replacement instructions

Piston repair work must be performed on an inspection ditch, lift or overpass.

What will you need?

To repair a VAZ 2109 engine with your own hands, you need the following tools:

1. a set of keys;
2. set of heads;
3. funnels;
4. extension cords;
5. torque wrench;
6. set of probes;

Set of gap gauges

1. mandrel for pressing products on the piston;
2. hammer;
3. needle file;
4. new repair kit.

New consumables for piston VAZ 2109

When purchasing piston rings for the VAZ 2109, you should take into account the material of manufacture and their width. It is better to purchase original products to avoid fakes.

Correct installation of piston rings

Sooner or later, your engine will wear out and will require either a replacement of the piston rings or the piston as a whole.

It seems that changing piston rings is an ordinary task, accessible to anyone who is more or less familiar with the structure and operating principle of a primitive four-stroke engine. But, unfortunately, people are afraid to spend 15 minutes of their incredibly precious time reading literature and stuff everything into the engine according to the principle (and that’s how it was. It’ll probably work). Well, the flag is in your hands and contact the service as soon as possible.

So, we take the piston and see 3 grooves for installing piston rings. There are no limit stops on 4-stroke engines, like on 2-stroke engines, for example.

There are two types of piston rings on 4-stroke engines. The first two, which are installed in the two upper grooves, are compression. Even from the name it is clear that they are responsible for the presence of compression in your engine and must retain the gases formed at the moment of the outbreak due to the combustion of fuel in the combustion chamber.

The next three rings are oil scraper rings. Here, too, their purpose is immediately clear. They are responsible for skimming off the oil that coats the cylinder walls as the piston returns down. If these rings leak, then the oil will remain on the cylinder walls, and this can lead to the fact that the engine will begin to consume oil, and, naturally, smoke will appear.

How to install first? Yes, in principle, as they were from the factory, in the same order, but to avoid mistakes we show them again.

Initially, we install the main oil scraper ring: the one that has a wave-like structure. Installing it could not be easier, since it is the most elastic of all.

Next, install the upper and lower THIN oil scraper rings. They are a little harder, but there shouldn't be any problems installing them either.

Now we install the piston compression rings: those that are thicker and “harder”. First install the lower one, then the upper one. They are a little more difficult to place as they are less elastic and harder. You are unlikely to be able to break them, but with completely crooked hands, bending them couldn’t be easier.

Do you think that's all? No!

The fact is that the rings still need to be correctly positioned on the piston so that the ring locks (the cut location) do not fall on each other. Simply put, it is necessary that the cut of the lower ring is not located directly above the cut of the upper ring.

We start with the upper piston rings.

We place the lock of the lower ring in the middle above the cavity of a valve, for example, an intake valve (it can also be an exhaust valve, there is no difference).

We place the lock of the upper ring strictly on the opposite side from the lower ring. Accordingly, if the lock of the lower ring is above the cavity under the intake valve, then the lock of the upper ring is above the cavity under the exhaust valve.

Now let's move on to the oil scraper rings. These rings need to be positioned in exactly the same way so that no lock matches. Therefore, we place the upper ring above the hole for the piston pin, on the right side.

We place the second one (the one at the bottom) on the opposite side, also approximately in the middle of the hole for the piston pin.

We place the last wave-shaped oil scraper ring in any of the four resulting sections between the hole for the finger and the cavity for the valve.

And now to your question: what kind of nonsense is the author telling us here? And why so painstakingly set the position of all 5 rings?

Let's explain. We did all this so that it would not happen that when one lock was located above the other, gases would not pass through these locks (in the case of piston rings) and oil would not remain on the walls (in the case of oil scraper rings).

If we take into account the piston rings, then this is a loss of compression and the passage of hot working gases to the oil scraper rings, which are not designed for such suddenly high operating temperatures. As a result, the rings may burn out after a certain time. If we turn to the oil scraper rings and the coincidence of the locks on them, then the oil will not be completely removed: it will reach the piston rings, which will lead to coking of the ring grooves, and as a result they will settle and then burn

If we turn to the oil scraper rings and the coincidence of the locks on them, then the oil will not be completely removed: it will reach the piston rings, which will lead to coking of the ring grooves, and as a result they will settle and then burn.

As a result, you will get burnt rings and piston wear.

Bottom line: adjusting the ring locks before installation is a matter of 2 minutes, and this operation can extend the service life of the motor by tens of hours.

Removing the engine

The engine on a VAZ can be removed if you have the necessary tools. In addition, you need to have a special lifting device available that will help remove the engine from the compartment. You can, of course, do without it, but then you need additional workers. So, let's start:

• remove the hood;
• cover the front fenders of the car with soft blankets so as not to damage the paint when removing the engine;
• drain the radiator;
• disconnect all electrical wires from the distributor, as well as from the oil and temperature sensor and carburetor;
• remove the fuel supply hose;
• unscrew the exhaust manifold pipe (muffler);
• disconnect the battery terminals;
• remove the starter;
• the air filter housing is removed;
• disconnect the generator wires;

Disconnecting the generator wires on a VAZ

• unscrew the engine from the gearbox;
• use a screwdriver to loosen the clamps of the heater radiator pipes;
• remove the accelerator pedal linkage;
• remove the carburetor choke cable.

After carrying out the above work, you need to go down into the inspection hole or under the overpass:

• remove the clutch master cylinder;
• unscrew the gearbox;
• remove the protective casing;
• unscrew the engine bolts;
• We hook the engine with belts and lift it up.

Removing the engine on belts

At this stage, engine removal is complete. Let's move on to its analysis.

Parts and consumables:

• Oil filter
• Engine oil
• Rags

Tools:

• Tubular socket wrench 13 mm
• Mandrel for pressing in piston pin
• Mandrel for compressing piston rings
• Hammer
• Piston ring puller
• Flat feeler gauge
• Torque wrench

Parts and consumables:

1. Insert the connecting rod into the piston so that the bosses on the connecting rod face toward the rear of the piston.

Note:

There is a mark in the form of a hole on the front part of the piston bottom.

3. Install the piston pin snap rings into the piston grooves.

4. Install the piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If it is not there, install the rings on the piston, carefully opening the ring locks.

5. The order of installation of the rings is as follows: first install the composite oil scraper ring (the ring lock should be on the opposite side of the expansion spring lock), then the lower compression ring and, finally, the upper one.

6. Orient the rings as shown in the figure. Install the rings on the remaining pistons.

The location of the piston ring locks before installing the piston into the cylinder:

1 — oil scraper and upper compression ring expander;

2 - upper oil scraper ring;

3 - lower compression ring;

4 - lower oil scraper ring.

Note:

Install the lower compression ring with the marking facing up.

7. Install the liner into the connecting rod, aligning the installation tab of the liner with the notch on the connecting rod.

8. Lubricate the cylinder bore, piston, piston rings and connecting rod bearing with engine oil.

9. Install a mandrel on the piston to compress the rings and, screwing in the screw, compress the rings.

10. Rotate the crankshaft so that its connecting rod journal, on which the connecting rod and piston group is mounted, is installed at TDC. Install the cylinder piston according to the cylinder number marking on the connecting rod.

11. Press (for example, with the handle of a hammer) on the piston and slide it from the mandrel into the cylinder until the lower connecting rod head is installed on the crankpin of the crankshaft. Install the pistons in the remaining cylinders in the same way.

Note:

When installing pistons into cylinders, the marks (holes) on the pistons must face the front of the engine.

Warning:

When installing the piston, press the piston ring compressor firmly against the cylinder block, otherwise the piston rings will be broken.

Install the piston into the cylinder carefully so that the lower head of the connecting rod does not damage the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft

12. Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod caps, aligning the mounting tab of the bearing with the recess on the cap.

13. Lubricate the connecting rod bearings in the connecting rod caps and the crankpins of the crankshaft with engine oil.

14. Install the connecting rod cover by connecting the connecting rod to the crankshaft journal.

Warning:

Install the connecting rod cap so that the cylinder number markings on the connecting rod and on the cap are located on the same side.

15. Lubricate the threads of the connecting rod cap bolts and nuts with engine oil.

16. Screw on the connecting rod bolt nuts without fully tightening them.

17. Tighten the nuts of the connecting rod bolts to a torque of 13.7-15.7 Nm (1.4-1.6 kgf*m).

18. Tighten all nuts 35-40° clockwise.

19. Check the ease of movement of the connecting rods along the crankpins. If jamming occurs, unscrew the connecting rod bolt nuts and retighten them as described in paragraphs. 17.18.

20. Using a feeler gauge, check the side clearances between the connecting rods and the crankshaft cranks. The nominal gap is 0.200-0.470 mm, the maximum permissible is 0.5 mm. If the side clearance is greater than the maximum permissible, replace the connecting rod and/or crankshaft.

21. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Running in the engine

After assembling the engine, it is recommended to run it on a stand. Since this cannot be done outside of special repair organizations, after installing the engine on the car, run it in a simplified cycle as follows:

1. Fill with oil and coolant, check the tightness of all connections.

2. Start the engine and let it run without load according to the following cycle:

• 820-900 rpm - 2 minutes;
• 1000 rpm - 3 minutes;
• 1500 rpm - 4 minutes;
• 2000 rpm - 5 minutes.

Do not bring the engine to maximum operating conditions.

3

During operation, check the tightness of the engine and its systems, oil pressure, pay attention to the presence of extraneous noise

4. If extraneous noise or other malfunctions are detected, stop the engine and eliminate their causes.

5. When you start using the car, follow the regimes provided for the break-in period of a new car.

The article is missing:

High-quality photos of repairs

Stages

• First of all, you need to dismantle the cylinder head with your own hands.
• Then you need to remove the engine oil pan.
• After rotating the crankshaft, install it so that the connecting rod mounting nuts extend as far as possible.
• After unscrewing the fastening nuts, remove the connecting rod caps.
• Using a hammer, tapping lightly, remove the piston with connecting rod from the cylinder.
• Having opened the gap with your fingers, you need to remove all three products from the groove in turn and dismantle them from the piston. Together with the oil scraper, its expander is removed.

Use your fingers to widen the gap

• Using old products, you should clean the grooves from carbon deposits.
• Removed products must be checked for suitability. To do this, they must be inserted into the cylinder and the gap measured using a feeler gauge. It should be in the range of 0.25 - 0.45 mm. A gap of up to 1 mm is allowed. If the value is greater, then the part must be urgently replaced. If the gap is larger, then the product needs to be sharpened using a needle file.
• Before installing new products on VAZ 2109 pistons, they should be run in the grooves. If biting is detected, the part must be ground in using fine-grained sandpaper.

The table shows the maximum values ​​of the gaps between the part being replaced and the groove walls.

• When installing, all parts should be thoroughly lubricated with oil.
• Installation of products begins with the oil scraper. First, the expander is installed - a special spring with a lock. Then the product itself is put on her. The expander lock and the oil scraper ring gap must be opposite each other.
• The lower compression ring has a groove and a tooth. When installed, they should be at the bottom of the part. On the upper surface there is usually an inscription “vas” or “tor”.
• The upper compression ring is installed in the same way - with the lettering facing up.
• The sequence of putting on the parts is as follows:
• first, the lock is released so that the part can easily fit onto the piston;
• then the lock itself starts;
• the remaining part is installed.

After installation on the piston, all parts need to be oriented. The installation axis of the piston pin should be 45 degrees with the lock of the upper compression ring. The lock of the next product should be at an angle of 180 degrees with respect to the previous one. Thus, the angle between the oil control valve and the upper compression valve will be 90 degrees. Then the pistons and rings are pressed out with a special mandrel and inserted into the cylinders from which they were removed. Next, we perform the reverse assembly with our own hands.

After replacement, the VAZ 2109 piston rings must be run-in. In this case, you should not load the engine, drive on roads with long ascents, and change gears correctly.

Video “Installing piston rings”

This video shows the process of installing piston parts: how to install and what to pay attention to.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

Installation and removal of piston rings

Thoroughly clean the used piston to remove any adhering dirt.

Pay special attention to ensuring that the ring grooves are free of oil deposits and dirt. If necessary, clean the oil return holes using a drill or other suitable tool.

Be careful not to damage the side surfaces of the groove when removing oil deposits from them. At the lower lateral surface of the groove there is a sealing surface

During operation, damage due to scratches may lead to excessive oil consumption or increased leakage of gases from the combustion chamber into the engine crankcase.

To install and dismantle piston rings, be sure to use special pliers for their installation. Other aids, such as wire loops or screwdrivers, damage both the piston ring and the piston.

Never tighten the rings by hand (exception: oil control piston rings with steel plates). Not only is there a risk of the ring breaking, deforming and stretching, but there is also the risk of injury from the sharp edges of the ring if it breaks.

Quickly putting on the piston ring by hand without breaking it, however, proves the dexterity of the mechanic; however, the piston ring is damaged in most cases already during installation.

Rice. 3

Mounting kit for piston rings

Never tighten the rings onto the piston in the manner shown (Fig. 1). If the ring becomes warped and no longer lies flat in the groove, then it no longer rotates in that groove, is worn on only one side, or is not quite sealing enough. However, things get worse if the molybdenum layer comes off or breaks off the molybdenum coated rings. If loss of the sliding layer does not already occur during installation, this will happen at the latest during engine break-in. The sliding layer separates and damages the piston and cylinder surface. The piston becomes stuck in the cylinder bore because hot exhaust gases are forced between the piston and the cylinder wall. The detached particles damage the piston and working surfaces of the cylinder.

Avoid excessive removal and installation of piston rings. With each installation, the rings are slightly deformed. Do not remove the rings from previously assembled pistons again in order, for example, to measure them again. Follow the sequence of installation of the rings. First, the oil scraper piston ring is installed, then the second one, after which the first compression piston rings are installed.

Pay attention to the markings when installing. "Torus" means that this side should point upward towards the combustion chamber

If you are not sure whether there is a “Tor” marking, then insert the ring with the inscription at the top. “Tor” does not mean that we are talking about the first compression piston ring.

Rice. 2

Check to see if the rings can spin (rotate) freely in the ring grooves.

Check whether the ring completely disappears along the entire circumference in the ring groove, i.e., the working surface of the ring should not extend beyond the piston skirt

This is important because if there is insufficient clearance at the bottom of the groove (wrong ring or carbon deposits at the bottom of the groove), the operation of the ring is not guaranteed

When installing two-piece oil scraper piston rings, always pay attention to the position of the spiral spring expander (Fig. 6)

The ends of the expander should always be positioned opposite the piston ring joint.

Rice. 6

With three-piece rings, the correct position of the expansion spring is mandatory to perform the oil film removal function (Fig. 1 and 2). In any case, before installation, also check the position of the expansion spring on the piston with the rings already inserted. During transportation, the ends of the spring are in a relaxed state and may overlap each other. Both color markings on the ends of the spring must be visible (Fig. 3). If they are not visible, then the ends of the spring overlap and the ring does not function. All joints of the oil control piston ring, which consists of three parts (both steel plates and an expander spring), must be inserted offset by 120° relative to each other.

Move the piston ring joints of the piston ready for installation so that they lie approximately 120° in relation to each other. They help the piston and, accordingly, the rings when the engine is first started. Reason: when the engine is first started, the compression is slightly lower, since the piston rings have not yet broken in. By moving the butt ends relative to each other, it is possible to prevent too many gases from leaking from the combustion chamber into the crankcase when the engine is first started and, as a result, the engine is difficult to start.

Purpose and design

First, you need to decide what piston rings are. This concept covers two types of rings and one intermediate subtype. At first glance, these products are almost identical - open rings, which, when installed, are recessed into the grooves of the pistons . However, there are still differences in their design:

1. Compression rings. They prevent hot gases from entering the engine crankcase from the combustion chambers. The outer diameter of such rings is slightly larger than the inner diameter of the cylinders, so they have a cutout called a lock;
2. Oil scraper rings. They prevent oil from entering the combustion chambers from the engine crankcase. As the name suggests, the rings remove oil from the cylinder walls. They have through slots, which makes them different from compression rings, and are installed below the latter;
3. Compression and oil scraper. They are closer to compression ones, but they have a specific geometry, thanks to which they are able to both remove excess oil and seal the combustion chamber.

It is worth noting that some automakers design engines with the expectation that they will have increased oil consumption. Oddly enough, this is due to the specific design of the piston rings. Despite the obvious paradox of this decision, it makes sense. Firstly , in such engines friction losses are lower than in those that use oil more economically. Secondly , the cylinder-piston group of such units wears out more slowly. The pistons of the vast majority of engines are equipped with three rings:

• Upper compression;
• Medium compression and oil scraper;
• Lower oil scraper.

The top ring seals the combustion chamber. As a rule, it wears out faster than the other two rings, as it takes heavy loads: high temperatures, pressure, contact with chemically aggressive exhaust gases. Increased oil consumption in most cases is due to wear of these particular rings. They are usually made from cast iron alloyed with chromium, molybdenum and nickel or from alloy steel with an additional wear-resistant coating.

Compression and oil scraper rings take on several functions at once. First : additional sealing of combustion chambers. Second : preventing excessive oil consumption. In fact, the ring simultaneously blocks access to the combustion chamber and removes excess oil as the piston moves from the top to the bottom. Such rings have a more complex shape than conventional compression rings. In the vast majority of cases, alloyed cast iron with flake graphite is used to make such rings - the material is less durable than, for example, cast iron alloyed with molybdenum.

Lower oil scraper rings, as you can easily guess from their name, take on the task of removing oil from the cylinder walls and further discharging it into the engine crankcase through special grooves or holes. There are two types of oil scraper rings

1. Stacked, including a pair of rings and a dual-function expander;
2. Box-shaped with expander spring.

The main requirements for oil scraper piston rings: the ability to quickly and efficiently break in to the cylinder walls. Simply put, the ring should fill the free space as much as possible, as this increases the efficiency of oil removal. Oil scraper rings made from carbon steel or gray alloy cast iron. If the cylinder liners are made of cast iron, then the piston oil rings must be chrome plated.

How to correctly install rings on the piston on a VAZ 2109

The fact that the car requires replacement of the piston rings, and not some other repair work, will be indicated by the engine itself. The signs of such a malfunction appear quite clearly, so it will be difficult not to notice them. But before we talk about the symptoms, you need to understand what the rings are and what role they play in the operation of the engine.

Piston rings are elastic, open elements that are installed in special grooves on the piston body. They are made of high-strength steel or cast iron, and covered with an alloying material on top. The alloy coating further increases strength and also reduces wear rates.

Typically, 3 rings are inserted into the piston: 2 compression rings (occupying the 2 upper grooves) and 1 oil scraper ring (the lower groove). The purpose of the compression rings is to prevent hot gases from breaking through along the piston into the engine crankcase. Oil scraper - removes excess oil from the cylinder mirror, preventing it from entering the combustion chamber. In addition, the rings reduce the temperature of the piston, transferring almost half of the heat from its surface to the cylinder walls.

When the piston rings no longer cope with the tasks assigned to them due to their wear, the car engine signals this by displaying the corresponding symptoms.

SIGNS OF PISTON RING WEAR

Blue or black smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates that wear has reached a critical stage. This indicates that excess oil entered the combustion chamber past the oil scraper ring and burned there along with the fuel. Black smoke coming out of the crankcase ventilation tube indicates that the compression rings, due to wear, allow gases to escape from the combustion chamber into its cavity.

Critical wear is accompanied by a decrease in compression (the ability to maintain pressure) in the engine cylinders. This means that some of the gases formed during the combustion of the fuel mixture, which was supposed to push the piston, broke into the crankcase without performing useful work. This is what will lead to a drop in pressure in the cylinder, therefore, the engine will lose some power. Increased oil consumption is observed.

Compression is checked with a special device - a compression meter. When the nominal pressure values ​​​​are unknown (there are no operating instructions), it is first measured in a dry cylinder, then a little engine oil is poured through the spark plug hole, and the measurement is made again. If the compression increases, then the rings need to be replaced. Similar signs can be observed in the case of their “occurrence”.

“Sticking” occurs when carbon deposits formed in the piston grooves prevent the piston rings from springing, resulting in a decrease in the tightness of their contact with the cylinder surface.

This problem, if the case is not very advanced, can be corrected with the help of special fuel additives. For an engine with a carburetor system, you can try cleaning it with a carbon remover spray that is injected directly into the carburetor. If removing carbon deposits from the combustion chamber has no effect, then there is only one way out - replacing the piston rings and cleaning the grooves.

How to repair a piston VAZ 2109

If wear in the cylinders exceeds 0.15 millimeters, the cylinders need to be bored and the pistons and rings replaced to the following repair size:

• Replacement of a VAZ 2109 piston must be carried out taking into account the compliance of each piston class with a new piston ring.
• When choosing a ring, you need to pay attention to its markings:

1. if it is absent on the parts, then the product has nominal dimensions;
2. “40” - an increase of 0.4 millimeters in the diameter of the repair ring is marked;
3. “80” - corresponds to the marking of an increase in size by 0.8 millimeters.

Piston repairs in a BC are performed as follows:

• Cylinder wear is checked. Using a bore gauge, the diameter of the cylinder is measured in two directions—longitudinal and transverse—in four zones.

Measuring cylinder diameter with a bore gauge

• In the area of ​​the first belt there is practically no wear on the cylinder. Therefore, the amount of wear in the remaining belts of the part can be determined by the difference in diameters between this cylinder belt and the others.

Cylinder wear control belts

• If the amount of wear is more than 0.15 millimeters, the cylinders are bored to the closest repair size. It should be taken into account that the final operation for processing the cylinder is honing. Therefore, it is necessary to leave an allowance for processing of a diameter of 0.03 millimeters.
• After the final operation, the repair size of the piston and the diameter of the cylinder differed in the range of 0.025 - 0.045 millimeters.
• A new piston is installed.

Tip: The caps on the connecting rod are not interchangeable. The connecting rod cover and the part indicate the number of the cylinder where the connecting rod can be installed. When replacing a VAZ 2109 piston, the numbers on the connecting rod should be located on one side.

• In the same way, all remaining pistons on the VAZ 2109 are replaced.
• The engine is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly after the last piston is installed.

The replacement of VAZ 2109 pistons is well shown in the video.

How to properly break in an engine after replacing a piston

Proper running-in of the car is of great importance after the entire piston engine on the VAZ 2109 has been replaced. This must be treated very carefully, as well as repairs. Particular attention should be paid to those units in which the parts are connected to each other by friction, and the efficiency depends on the optimal clearances with which they should be adjacent to each other. So:

• The speed of the car, after installing new pistons, should not exceed more than 60 kilometers in one hour per 1000 kilometers. This is necessary for grinding in parts that rub against each other.
• The main purpose of running in is to smooth out all micro-irregularities. This occurs by friction between the parts until their complete fit is ensured. Increased heating of engine parts occurs when there is high friction during “grinding in.”
• This indicates that the engine should operate with gentle, minimal loads.

Compliance with all these rules, after replacing the piston on a VAZ 2109, will ensure the use of the car in good condition for a long time.

Running in the engine after replacement

After replacing only the rings, without touching the pistons and cylinders, it is necessary to carry out a break-in, since the newly installed piston rings must grind into the old piston group for a longer time. There is a process of erasing micron irregularities to ensure a tighter fit of the rubbing surfaces.

Violation of the speed limit during running-in leads to an increase in the friction force between the ground surfaces and an increase in temperature. As a result, the wear of engine components accelerates. Proper initial start-up of the engine after replacing the piston rings is of decisive importance. It must be performed according to the following rules:

• the battery must be fully charged;
• the oil must match the make of the car;
• After starting, observe the oil pressure indicator. If it lights up for more than 7 seconds, turn off the engine and look for the cause;
• at normal oil pressure, without increasing the speed, warm up the engine to 80-90 degrees;
• turn off the engine and wait until the temperature drops to 50 degrees, then start the engine again;
• wait until the temperature rises to 90 and turn off the engine again. Repeat this operation 10 times.

After this process, your engine is ready to break in after replacing the piston rings.

Recommendations for running in the engine after replacing piston rings:

• do not transport a lot of cargo or passengers at this time; the weight of the loaded vehicle should be no more than 50% of the permitted maximum weight;
• for the first thousand km, do not exceed the speed limit, keep no more than 80 km/h, for the second thousand, no more than 90;
• do not move in one gear for a long time;
• Do not pick up speed too quickly, do not linger at idle speed.
• Before each trip, make sure that you have the proper oil level; after 1 thousand km, change the oil and filter.

Upon completion of the break-in process after replacing the piston rings, it is necessary to rinse the engine with flushing fluid, change the oil and filter element. Tighten the cylinder head and crankcase mounts again.

Replacement process

Replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2109 is a simple procedure and is similar for engines that have both a carburetor and an injector.

Required Tools

In order to change the gasket, the cylinder head must be removed, and the following tools may be required for removal and replacement:

• hexagon;
• a set of keys;
• set of heads;
• torque wrench;
• extension;
• gasket remover;
• flat screwdriver.

To perform this procedure, the vehicle must be placed on a suitable lifting device.

Stages

Replacement is carried out as follows:

1. The vehicle's power is turned off by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Next, you need to drain the working fluids. The coolant may not be completely drained. The oil is drained if antifreeze gets into it.
3. Next, you should disconnect all the wires with the sensors, remove the thermostat, the air filter along with the pipes.
4. Then the timing cover is removed and the muffler pipe is disconnected.
5. Next, you need to set the alignment marks and remove the timing belt.
6. After disconnecting all supply hoses, you need to dismantle the carburetor.
7. Next, remove the cooling system pipes and the protective timing cover.
8. After this, the mounting bolts are unscrewed and the cylinder head is dismantled.

Dismantling the cylinder head on a VAZ 2109

• If the old gasket has become stuck and is difficult to remove, you can use a special product.
• Before installing a new consumable, carefully inspect the surrounding surfaces. There should be no defects on them, otherwise the head should be ground.
• When the surfaces are ready for installation, they need to be cleaned of dirt, degreased, and a new part can be installed. It is installed along guides located in the corners. For better sealing, a layer of sealant is applied at the joint.
• The fastening bolts must be tightened with a torque wrench to the torque specified in the VAZ 2109 operating manual.

  
  Bolt tightening diagram

• After installing the cylinder head, you need to replace all the removed parts in the reverse order.

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Signs of piston wear

On average, a piston replacement on a VAZ 2109 is required every 150,000 km

The car owner should pay attention to warning signs that indicate the need to change the rings

1. The car began to require more fuel.
2. Compression measurements showed a value of less than 10 atmospheres.
3. There is less engine oil.
4. Replacing oil seals does not help eliminate oil leaks.

The VAZ 2109 piston group is a set consisting of a piston, piston rings mounted on it, a piston pin and its fasteners. There are three grooves on the surface of the piston for rings.

Two compression rings are responsible for the tightness of the space above the piston. They maintain normal compression and also prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber.

The oil scraper is responsible for removing excess oil from the cylinder walls, thereby reducing fuel consumption. Only a film a few microns thick is left inside the cylinder liner to lower the piston. Well, the pin, which is inserted transversely inside the piston cavity, attaches the connecting rod to the piston.

Features of the piston group of the VAZ 2109 car

Usually, after 150 thousand kilometers, visible wear occurs in the pistons group. It can be determined by some signs:

• Increased gas mileage.
• Reduction, less than 10 kgf/cm2, of engine compression.
• Increased oil consumption. 1000 kilometers are enough to reduce the oil level from maximum to minimum.
• Change in color of exhaust gases to a bluish tint.
• Oil consumption decreases slightly after replacing the oil seals. This suggests that diagnostics of the piston system and, if necessary, replacement of worn parts are necessary. The permissible wear of liners and pistons should not be more than 0.15 millimeters; in this case, you can only get by by replacing the piston rings.

You can replace the piston rings on a VAZ 2109 car without removing the engine from the car.

Tip: After installing other piston rings, the gasket located between the head and the cylinder block needs to be replaced. All other parts that fail are replaced with new ones during the assembly process.

When is it time to change rings?

There are three piston rings on the VAZ 2109. They are not closed rims that are located on the outer wall of the cylinder in special grooves. These parts serve to seal the combustion chamber, regulate oil flow and improve heat transfer through the cylinder wall. Two compression valves prevent gases from the combustion chamber from entering the crankcase, and an oil scraper valve removes oil from the cylinder walls and prevents it from entering the combustion chamber.

Wear of piston group parts occurs after approximately 150 thousand kilometers due to the action of gases and friction of metal parts. They need to be changed if the following symptoms are present:

• compression drop;
• increased fuel consumption;
• the appearance of bluish smoke in the exhaust gases;
• increased oil consumption.

The cause of deterioration in engine performance may be coking of the piston and stuck rings. This happens when using low-quality fuels and lubricants that do not meet the manufacturers’ recommendations. During long-term operation, carbon deposits form, which covers the combustion chamber and its parts. Piston rings covered with carbon deposits “stick” and cannot perform their functions properly. In this case, they should be changed or decarbonized.

Coked piston with traces of carbon deposits

How to understand when it's time to change piston rings

When the car's oil consumption increased significantly, compression in the cylinders dropped. Before quickly rushing to the garage, you need to measure the compression, first on dry cylinders and then fill the cap from a bottle of oil and measure again and compare the results. If dry cylinder performance is lower, the piston rings must be replaced.

If not, then the rings have nothing to do with it, and you should pay attention to the caps and valves. Also, if low-grade oil is used, the piston rings may become stuck. This phenomenon usually occurs in cars whose engines have not been used for a long time, or have been used for very short distances.

You can decarbonize the rings as follows: unscrew the spark plugs and pour kerosene into the cylinders overnight; this will save you from loosening the carbon deposits.

How to properly install piston rings on a 402 engine

Hello dear friends! Continuing with the engine overhaul, in this article we will deal with piston rings. Yes, we will devote a whole article to piston rings, because piston rings are one of the most important engine parts. Let's figure out what the wear of piston rings entails. The elasticity of piston compression rings, compressed by a steel tape to a gap in the joint of 0.4 mm, should be 17.5 - 25.0 N. With increasing wear, the correct geometric shape of the cylinder liners is disrupted, the gaps in the joints of the rings, the gaps between the rings and the annular grooves increase in the piston; The elasticity of the rings decreases greatly. All this leads to a violation of their sealing properties. As wear increases, the amount of gases penetrating the engine crankcase also increases, and oil consumption begins to increase.

But the main reason that determines the need to replace the pistons is wear of the grooves for the piston rings. The increased gap between the groove and the ring promotes intensive pumping of oil into the space above the piston. If the piston grooves are worn heavily, replacing the rings alone will not give positive results, therefore, if the gaps between the end of the ring and the groove in the piston are more than 0.15 mm, replace the pistons and rings with new ones. Pistons are replaced by selecting the liners (unless, of course, you are changing the entire piston group) in which they will work. Pistons are selected based on the force of pulling a probe tape 0.05 mm thick, 10 mm wide and 250 mm long between the piston and liner.

Selection of pistons by liners.

The feeler tape is placed between the liner and the piston on the side opposite the slot on the piston skirt along its entire length. The force when pulling the probe tape should be 35-45 N for new liners and pistons and 20-30 N for used liners and pistons. Pistons must be selected without piston pins at normal room temperature (+20 °C). If for some reason the selection has to be done at a temperature other than room temperature, then the tape pulling force should be closer to the upper limit at temperatures above 20 °C and closer to the lower limit at temperatures below 20 °C. After selection, the pistons are marked in accordance with the numbers of the cylinders to which they are selected.

If you install the entire piston group, a new one, then of course it will be easier. But still, I recommend that you place the piston and its sleeve as they were packaged. The piston rings will also need to be selected and checked. We install the rings one by one into the cylinder to a depth of 20–30 mm and measure the gaps with a feeler gauge. Compression rings should have a gap in the lock of 0.3-0.6 mm, oil scraper rings - 0.3-1.0 mm.

Checking the gap at the joints of the piston rings.

If you are installing a used piston group, then you must definitely measure with a bore gauge to see if the liners are worn out, according to the table. It will be necessary to check the gaps between the ends and the walls of the piston grooves using new piston rings. We check the gap at several points around the circumference of the piston. The side clearance for compression rings should be 0.050–0.082 mm, for the assembled oil scraper ring 0.135–0.335 mm.

We check the ring gaps in the piston grooves.

Now you will need to put all the rings in their places in the piston grooves. Usually on the packaging of piston rings, the manufacturer shows in what order to put on the piston rings. If it turns out that there are no instructions, then you will need to do the following:

• We put the rings on the piston, starting with the oil scraper ring;
• Having opened the lock of the oil scraper ring expander, install it in the lower groove of the ring, and then bring the ends of the expander together;

We put an oil scraper ring on the expander, the inscription to the bottom of the piston, the angle between the locks of the expander and the ring is 45 degrees;

We install the lower compression ring, with an inscription and a chamfer on the inside of the ring, also to the piston bottom;

Finally, install the upper compression ring.

You need to know that pistons of nominal and three repair sizes are produced for auto repair production. To ensure selection by liners, the pistons are sorted into five size groups, which are designated by letters of the Russian alphabet. The size group designation is stamped on the piston crown. The size groups of pistons of nominal and repair sizes, as well as their designations, are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Size groups of pistons of nominal and

repair sizes and their designations

Source

What is the danger of a situation where rings are stuck in the engine?

The main danger is that when the piston rings are stuck, the engine operates in abnormal mode:

• incomplete combustion of fuel, formation of soot;
• failure of individual cylinders;
• exhaust gases penetrate the crankcase, oil destruction;
• the oil burns, forming varnishes and carbon deposits.

Soft engine flushing Suprotek Aprokhim

For long-term (up to 200 km) soft washing of internal combustion engines of any type.

These seemingly minor faults lead to serious problems and expensive repairs.

When aggressive exhaust gases enter the oil pan, they react with the oil. The chemical composition of the lubricating fluid changes, it cannot perform its functions. As a result, wear of rubbing parts accelerates and heat dissipation deteriorates.

Oil that is not removed by the stuck oil scraper ring burns, causing local overheating of the parts. With prolonged use in this mode, scuffing will appear on the liner and piston skirt. When the oil burns, it leaves carbon deposits, which often causes detonation and possible piston burnout.

How to measure compression in cylinders, in detail

If you are going to measure the compression in the engine of your car, you need to follow a few simple rules:

• The engine must be warm. • The fuel supply is turned off (you can turn off the fuel pump, injectors, or use any other method).

We recommend: Internal combustion engine

• It is necessary to unscrew all the spark plugs (selective removal of spark plugs, as at a service station, is unacceptable, since in this case the resistance increases and the speed decreases). • The battery must be fully charged.

Compression can be measured with either the throttle valve closed or open. Moreover, each option makes it possible to obtain your own results and identify certain faults. For example, when the damper is closed, some air will enter the cylinders, which will reduce compression (it will be approximately 0.6-0.8 MPa). The air leakage in this case is quite insignificant and is approximately equal to its entry into the cylinder. As a result, compression begins to “react” very sensitively to even the most minor leaks.

When measuring compression with the damper closed, the picture is somewhat different. The significant volume of air that enters the cylinder, of course, increases leakage. However, they are significantly less than the amount of incoming air. Therefore, compression drops slightly (to 0.8-0.9). Thus, measuring compression with the valve open is best suited for identifying significant engine damage, for example: damaged pistons, stuck rings, burnt valves, damaged cylinder bores.

Regardless of which of the two methods described above is used to check compression, during the measurement process it is necessary to take into account exactly how the pressure gauge readings change. For example, if on the first stroke the indicators are 0.3-0.4 and increase sharply on subsequent strokes, then this may indicate possible wear of the piston rings.

how to check engine compression

The most popular device for measuring engine compression is a compression meter. Its design is quite simple: a pressure gauge for measuring compression, a flexible hose, and an air inlet valve, which is inserted into the spark plug hole.

Well-known Western versions of compression meters, equipped with a whole arsenal of adapters, with which you can measure compression on cars of any brand.

You can also measure engine compression very quickly and accurately using a modern engine tester.

In fact, this device does not record the pressure itself, but the amplitude of the electricity that is used by the starter. It's simple: the higher the pressure, the more difficult it is for the starter to work, therefore, more energy is consumed. Using this device, you can measure compression in all cylinders simultaneously without removing the spark plugs, which is very convenient when working with multi-cylinder engines.

The main disadvantage of the motor tester is that the measurement results are displayed relatively - for example, as a percentage of the cylinder that works better. Only the most expensive models of engine testers show the compression value in each cylinder, and even then this is only possible if there is a large amount of data about the engine model, which is compared with the tester’s indicators.

what compression is considered normal?

With a fully functional engine, the indicators will be as follows:

Open damper: 1.0-1.2 MPa. Closed damper: 0.6-0.8 MPa.

When measuring compression, the main thing to remember is that the results obtained are relative, which means that you need to start not from specific numbers, but from the difference in compression in different cylinders.

Occurrence of rings

Often, decreased compression in the cylinders is associated not only with wear of the cylinder-piston group. The grooves themselves, in which the rings lie, can be coked by oil combustion products. Thus, we are talking about bedding. In most cases this happens when:

• long interruption of engine operation;
• This situation can be caused by short car trips when the engine does not have time to warm up to the required temperature;
• Poor quality oil may be the cause of rings getting stuck in the grooves.

Folk remedy for ring decarbonization

In order to eliminate the occurrence of rings, you should:

• unscrew the spark plugs;
• pour kerosene into the cylinders;
• leave overnight (this will loosen the carbon deposits).

Note. Needless to say, some of the kerosene poured into the cylinder and chambers will mix with the oil. Therefore, after such a procedure, you should definitely change the engine oil. But first you need to drive the car thoroughly on a safe section of the road so that all the exfoliated carbon deposits come out of the cylinders.

Today, there are many other ways to combat deposits. For example, stores sell RVS, which does not even require an oil change. The cleaning process is the same:

• 50 grams of this product are poured into the cylinders;
• kept for a certain time;
• the crankshaft rotates left and right by several degrees;
• let it sit further;
• after some time, the cylinders are purged without spark plugs (residues of the drug are thrown into the exhaust tract).

Engine disassembly

Replacing the piston on a VAZ 2108 is carried out only after complete disassembly of the engine. Started:

• remove the fuel pump;
• remove the ignition distributor;
• take out the generator;
• remove the water pump;
• remove the oil filter;
• remove the breather cap along with the dipstick to check the oil;
• remove the oil pressure sensors;
• remove the crankshaft pulley;
• remove the flywheel;

• remove the tin plate;
• unscrew the three engine cover bolts;
• remove it;
• take the key 10 and unscrew the cylinder head cover;
• remove the gasket;
• dismantle the chain drive;
• remove the sprockets and chain;
• remove the crankshaft gear;
• unscrew the nuts of the gas camshaft housing;

• remove the cylinder heads;
• remove the pan;
• remove the rear oil seal housing;
• remove the oil pump;
• remove the drive shaft along with the oil pump gear;
• remove the oil separator;
• dismantle the crank mechanism;

• remove the cover;
• remove the connecting rods with the piston;
• remove the main caps;
• remove the crankshaft;
• remove the spacer rings;
• remove old liners.

How to replace rings yourself

Attention: Replacement of piston rings on a VAZ 2108 is carried out after installing new crankshaft liners. As mentioned above, we remove the pistons and connecting rods. On the lower heads and connecting rod caps we see steel-aluminum type liners. They are threaded in such a way that they do not turn. They are kept from this by locks that fit into the slots of the beds.

So, replacing piston rings on a VAZ 2108 is carried out as follows:

• take the connecting rod and clamp it in a vice;
• after decompression, remove the old rings (upper and lower compression).

It should be remembered that when installing new rings, the top mark should be directed towards the bottom of the piston. The mark is often the name of a company or simply a car model, applied to the ring by the manufacturer. It also happens that instead of an inscription, an edge or chamfer is used. So, in this case, you need to install the ring with this chamfer down. Replacement of VAZ 2108 pistons continues:

• the old oil scraper ring is removed;
• The expander is also removed.

Attention: Replacing pistons on a VAZ 2108 involves knocking out the pin located in the piston. To do this, place the piston on some wooden support and knock out the pin with a hammer.

• we collect everything in the reverse order;
• We take a new piston, which we select by class (the class is marked with a letter, and the piston category with a number).

Now you need to be able to correctly adjust the gap between the cylinder and the piston.

• For completely new parts, the gap should be 0.05-0.07 mm. If any of the parts are worn out, the gap may be no more than 0.15 m.
• In addition, replacing the piston on a VAZ 2108 should be carried out so that the finger enters the hole with the force of only the thumb. Also, it should not fall out of the piston if it is in a vertical position.

• install rings;
• take a feeler gauge and check the gap (or rather, it is advisable to check the gap with a set of special feeler gauges).

Attention: The ring gap should be between 0.25 and 0.40 mm. If the gap is larger, the ring must be replaced. If the gap is smaller, we arm ourselves with a needle file. We carry out the following operation: we grind off the ends of the ring, but only very carefully.

This video shows everything thoroughly. It is recommended to watch it before starting the operation yourself.

• install the rings into the piston grooves;
• We begin the orientation process.

This operation consists of correctly positioning the rings at an angle to each other. The photo below clearly shows what angle they should have:

So, you need to install them yourself, as required by the instructions:

• the upper compression ring is oriented at an angle of 45 degrees (the angle should be directed towards the piston pin axis);
• the lower compression ring should be rotated relative to the upper one in the complete opposite direction;
• the oil scraper ring lock is adjusted to 90 degrees relative to the other rings (as for the joint of the expander, it should be located on the lock side of the ring itself);
• take the upper head of the connecting rod and heat it to 240 degrees (to do this, we clamp it in a vice and process it with a special tool);
• pre-cool the finger in ice water;
• the piston is put on the connecting rod;
• using a mandrel, the finger is pressed into the hole;

Mistakes made during installation

Oddly enough, even professionals often admit them. These include:

• installing new rings on a worn engine;
• installation of piston rings on one side, which leads to gas breakthrough.

It is worth noting that the numbers and letters on the connecting rod and cover must be located on the same side. The special mark “P”, which is located on the piston, should be directed towards the front of the cylinder block. This step-by-step instruction will help you master complex techniques for installing new piston rings on a VAZ 2108. Usually the price for such services from professionals is very high, since the process involves dismantling and disassembling the engine and a lot of complex steps. But armed with the necessary knowledge and a good tool, even motorists just starting repairs on their own can safely get to work.

Purchased larger piston rings

If you accidentally bought larger piston rings (for example, the cylinders were bored out for the first repair, but the seller made a mistake and gave piston rings for the second repair), naturally these rings will not fit into the cylinder.

First, you can exchange them with the seller who sold you the rings.

Second, you can carefully sharpen the edges to size.

Third, you can make a lock on these rings, but you must be good at using a file and this work requires patience and perseverance, I made such locks on piston rings, the compression increases and the engine pulls better.

Rice. Homemade locks on the piston ring

If you decide to make locks on the rings, then do them like this: insert the ring into the cylinder so that the ends of the rings overlap each other, draw a line along the upper edge of the ring with an awl, this will let you know how far the edge of the ring extends. Next, use a file to make the locks in the rings as shown in the figure, check the locks on the rings like this, measure the height of the ring with a caliper, divide by two, this will be the size of the height of the lock, after be sure to check that the locks in the piston do not jam, put the ring on the piston and crimp the ring with your fingers so that the locks are engaged, if the locks fit tightly, then sharpen the height of the locks a little more, the locks should overlap each other freely.

The piston rings are on, unscrew the cushion from the connecting rod (it is advisable to immediately replace the old bearings with new ones, but the size is written on the bearings, buy the same size of bearings). Insert the liner into the connecting rod so that the liner lock fits into the slot of the connecting rod bed, lubricate the liner and piston rings with machine oil. The insert is shown by an arrow.

We begin to insert the piston into the first cylinder, turn the crankshaft journal down, and insert the piston into the cylinder so that the arrow on the piston points to the front, as in the photo

Next, you need to carefully insert the piston rings into the cylinder, and I use a homemade crimp made from the return spring from the kickstarter of the Voskhod motorcycle. You can make a crimp yourself from such a spring or from another metal, as long as the metal is not soft and does not bend when crimping the ring. In the photo on the piston there is my crimp, why I like it, I carefully insert one ring at a time, and with the factory one you hammer in all the rings at once, but you have to hit the factory crimp with the handle of a hammer and I know many cases when the rings were not crimped very tightly with the factory clamp and the rings broke. And when you insert one ring at a time, you can easily drive it in with your palm or the edge of your fist, and if you press the ring poorly, it won’t fit and you won’t break it with your hand. By inserting the piston rings one at a time, I am one hundred percent sure that all the rings are intact.

We begin to insert the piston into the cylinder, the oil scraper ring is rigid and therefore squeeze the crimp with pliers and drive the piston in by hand, as shown in the photo.

The rest of the rings are soft and can be pressed with your fingers as shown in the photo, but these are German rings, VAZ ones are tougher, and if you don’t have enough strength to squeeze the ring with your fingers, use pliers.

The piston is inserted into the cylinder, push it with a piece of wood to the very bottom so that the connecting rod rests on the crankshaft, be sure to look from the bottom at how the connecting rod has become and whether the liner has come out of the connecting rod bed; if the liner has shifted slightly, push the connecting rod up and straighten the liner. Start tightening the connecting rod cushion, it is important to always wipe the place (connecting rod bed) where the liner is placed with a rag before placing the liner.

Very important. The connecting rod cushion is screwed in such a way that the locks of the bearings must be together (the lock of the connecting rod bearing must rest against the lock of the bearing bearing). Therefore, be careful and insert the connecting rod bearing correctly, tighten the connecting rod bearing, rotate the crankshaft, if it turns easily, then everything is correct, if it is very tight or does not fit, then the bearing was installed incorrectly, or the liner came out of the groove with a lock and was jammed, or the liner is the wrong size Be careful when changing the liners, the size of the liner should be exactly the same.

The pistons are all installed, now you need to screw on the oil receiver. Be sure to apply sealant to the tip of the oil receiver tube as shown in the photo. If this is not done and the worn sealing ring allows air to pass through, then there will be low oil pressure and the engine will knock, there is no need to buy a new sealing ring, the sealant holds perfectly.

Once you have screwed on the oil receiver, screw the pan so that the pan gasket does not fly off; it can be tied with simple threads in several places, the threads do not interfere, and installation of the pan is simplified.

The pallet is installed, we begin to clean the block from pieces of stuck gasket (this operation can be done at any time) as shown in the photo, you can clean it with a knife or a wide screwdriver, but do it carefully, try not to scratch the block too much. The block must be perfectly clean; if small pieces of the old gasket remain, a gap will appear in these places and antifreeze will flow either into the cylinder or out. If pieces of the cleaned gasket get into the cylinder, clean the cylinder, rotate the piston up and remove debris. Also clean the head.

Pay attention to the photo, you see the shells, these shells are the result of driving on A-76 gasoline, or due to very early ignition. It’s good if they become clogged with carbon deposits over time, but it may also be that this place gradually begins to deteriorate further and renders the head unusable.