Gearbox for VAZ 2107: design, malfunctions, repairs

A manual gearbox (MT) is designed to convert and transmit torque from the engine to the vehicle's transmission with a stepwise change in gear ratio.

Models of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant were equipped with four and five-speed gearboxes. The VAZ 2107 began to be equipped with a five-speed gearbox in 1982. This box is one of the successful design solutions of “classical” mechanics.

Like all mechanisms that have rotating and rubbing parts, the gearbox is also subject to intense wear. The structure of the unit is complex, so maintenance and repairs are best done in specialized workshops with the assistance of trained personnel.

Although every car enthusiast who knows how to hold a tool in his hands, having studied the device and the procedure for performing work, can carry out maintenance and repairs in his garage.

Five-speed manual transmission

The seventh model Zhiguli has a five-speed gearbox with five forward speeds and one reverse.

It is made of duralumin and has similar covers on the front and back. The clutch cover is attached to the front of the box using studs. A steel cover is installed on the bottom of the device. There are sealing gaskets between the box body and each lid.

The front cover is connected to the clutch housing using a press fit. There is a hole in it for the input shaft to exit and install the cuff.

Inside the box, shafts with gears, synchronizers and gear shifting devices are installed in a certain order. There is an oil filler hole on the right, and a drain hole with a magnetic plug on the bottom.

At the bottom left of the cover comes the speedometer cable, which is driven by the secondary shaft using a gear.

The gear shift lever is on top. Consists of a gear selection device, rods and a locking mechanism. A handle is attached to the lever on top. This entire structure is attached to the lid using three studs.

Type of gearbox:

Clutch cover.
Breather.
Box body.
Rear cover.
Gear shift lever.
Lever housing.
Coupling flange.
Screw.
Speedometer drive.
Tray cover.
Hole for filling.

Exploded parts:

Fork for engaging 3rd and 4th gears.
Fork for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.
Fork fastener.
Engraving washer.
Fork rod for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.
Rusk.
Fork rod for engaging 3rd and 4th gears.
Gear shift lever.
Fork rod for engaging 5th gear and reverse.
Rusk.
Rusk.
5th gear and reverse detent spring.
Retainer cover with gasket.
Retainer springs.
Ball retainers.
Fork for engaging 5th gear and reverse.
Sleeve.

Moving parts of the gearbox:

Intermediate shaft.
Front intermediate shaft bearing.
Rear main shaft bearing.
Input shaft with 4th gear gear.
Synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears.
Synchronizer clutch hub.
Synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears.
Synchronizer clutch hub.
Front secondary shaft bearing.
Secondary shaft.
Intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft.
Rear secondary shaft bearing.
5th gear synchronizer clutch.
Synchronizer clutch hub.
Reverse gear.
Gear with 5th gear synchronizer.
Speedometer drive gear.
Gear block for 5th gear and reverse gear.
Gear block bearing.
Reverse intermediate gear.
Reverse idler gear axis.
Rear intermediate shaft bearing.
Gear with 1st gear synchronizer.
Gear with 2nd gear synchronizer.
Gear with 3rd gear synchronizer.

Transmission repair: when to do it

Repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox may be required in the following cases:

Excessive noise is produced when the box operates. This noise is caused by increased wear of bearings, gears and synchronizers.
It becomes difficult to change the transmission. The reasons for this consequence are hidden in the wear of the lever, the lack of lubricant inside the box, and the deformation of the gearbox lever. Also, the cause of this phenomenon may be jamming of the blocking cracks or damage to the coupling splines.
Spontaneous transmission shutdown. The reasons for this consequence are wear of the ball holes on the rods, jamming of the clamps, blocking rings and the synchronizer itself.
Oil leakage occurs. Repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox must be carried out when oil leaks are detected on it. The causes of leakage can be either serious damage or simple wear of oil seals and seals.

In any case, disassembling the gearbox will be required if one of the above symptoms occurs, which will allow us to identify the exact cause of the malfunction and eliminate it. If even the slightest malfunction of the gearbox is detected, it is necessary to begin repairing it, which will prevent unforeseen consequences in the form of complete failure of the gearbox.

Features of repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2107

The design of the gearbox is no more complicated than the design of the engine itself, but in order to carry out repairs correctly, a certain sequence must be followed. We will find out in more detail in what sequence the disassembly and assembly of the gearbox is carried out.

Initially, the gearbox should be removed from the vehicle. We will not consider how to remove the gearbox, since there is appropriate material for this. One has only to note that first you need to drain the oil from the gearbox. We will begin repair work immediately.
The box is dirty and oily, so it is recommended that you take your time with the repair and clean the outer surface of the product.
Using a screwdriver, you need to pry off the cover of the fork, which is used to disengage the clutch. The fork is moved to the side. To remove the plug, you need to rotate it 90 degrees and remove it from the hole.
The gearbox disassembly scheme is common for both 4 and 5 mortars. You need to unscrew the clutch housing mounting nuts, then unscrew and remove the spring washers. These washers are located directly behind the nuts.
When the fasteners are removed, you can continue to disassemble the gearbox. To do this, you need to pull the crankcase, disconnecting it from the main device.
There is a sealing element behind the crankcase that also needs to be removed. If the gasket is worn, it should be replaced. There is a spring washer on the shaft, which also needs to be removed.
Using a “10” wrench, you need to unscrew the 10 nuts securing the crankcase cover. After unscrewing all the nuts, remove the spring washers located behind these nuts. The cover also needs to be removed.
Behind the cover there is a seal, which should also be removed by prying it off with a screwdriver.
The photo below shows the nuts that need to be unscrewed. These nuts secure the rear engine mount to the gearbox housing. Behind the nuts there are washers that must be removed, as well as a cushion complete with a cross member.
Do-it-yourself disassembly of the gearbox continues with unscrewing the speedometer drive nut. After unscrewing this nut, it is necessary to dismantle this drive.
The VAZ 2107 transmission is a mechanism with a set of gears and forks through which the vehicle moves. Having turned the gearbox over to the other side, you need to remove the reverse light switch.
The bolt securing the fork, which is responsible for switching third and fourth gears, is unscrewed.
You need to turn on the first transmission using the gearshift lever on the VAZ 2107.
At the same time as first gear is engaged, fourth gear must also be engaged. Using a screwdriver, move the synchronizer clutch to the side to connect it to the gear.
You may ask, why is it necessary to engage 2nd gears at the same time? This is done in order to block the rollers from turning.
The retaining ring is dismantled by prying it with a special puller on the secondary shaft.
Using chisels and a hammer, bend the locking plate securing the flange nut.
The nut must be loosened by 2-3 turns, which will allow the coupling centering ring to be removed. After moving the ring, you need to screw the nut.
Using a special kind of puller, you need to dismantle the coupling ring.
After removing the ring, it is necessary to dismantle the centering ring seal.
Now you can use a wrench to unscrew the nut.
There is a retaining ring behind the nut that also needs to be removed.
Using another puller, it is necessary to dismantle the flange.
The gearshift lever must be set to the neutral position, and then the sealing collar must be pulled up.
Behind the cuff there are nuts that need to be unscrewed. After unscrewing them, the lever or rocker is dismantled.
Behind the scenes there is a seal that must be removed.
The gearbox on the VAZ 2107 is further disassembled by unscrewing the two nuts securing the exhaust pipe.
There is a bolt behind the bracket that should also be removed.
To remove the back cover of the box, you need to unscrew the 5 outer nuts.
Another nut secures the cover from the inside, so after unscrewing the 5 outer nuts, you should proceed to the last one - the inner one.
It is necessary to disconnect the back cover and the box housing, which requires moving the back cover. The fastening nut is unscrewed, and then the washer is removed.
After unscrewing all the nuts, it is necessary to remove the rear cover from the crankcase, rocking it. The crankcase cover will come off on its own.
After removing the cover, it is necessary to remove the inner ring from the secondary shaft. Behind the ring is the speedometer drive gear, which must also be removed.
The cover of the clamps is found, after which the two bolts securing it are unscrewed. After removing the bolts, you must remove the cover.
There is a gasket under the cover that needs to be removed.
The spring clips are removed.
The gearbox must be turned over, thereby removing the retaining balls.
You need to find the drive gear retainer ball and remove it. The oil deflector washer also needs to be removed.
You should continue further if two gears are engaged at the same time. With two gears engaged, it is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the 5th gear gears. As you guessed, this procedure is performed for the VAZ 2107 5 mortar gearbox.
The fastening of the 5th gear shift fork, as well as the reverse gear, is unscrewed. After unscrewing, you must remove the plug.
By holding the rod of the 5th gear, as well as the reverse transmission, you need to remove the rod from the crankcase and the shift fork.
The gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear is dismantled manually.
The gear bushing is removed in the same way from the secondary shaft.
Once the bushing is removed, you will need to remove the gear, ring gear, locking ring and synchronizer clutch for the five-speed transmission.
The 5th gear synchronizer clutch hub is removed.
The reverse control gear is also removed.
From the inside, the intermediate shaft bearing is pressed out. To do this, you will need to take a hammer and a punch, and apply light blows.
Next, the bushing is removed from the secondary shaft. It is also necessary to remove the outer ring from the rear bearing.
Using a puller, you need to unclench the locking ring and remove it.
Two gears are engaged at the same time - first and fourth. The bearing securing bolt is unscrewed.
Place a screwdriver between the outer side of the ring and the shaft gear, thus removing the bearing ring together with the balls.
The rear inner ring is pressed out.
The intermediate shaft is removed.
The locking block of the transmission rod 3 and 4 is removed.
Crackers vary in size, so remember their location.
The shift rod 3 and 4 of the transmission is removed.
The 3rd and 4th gear shift fork is removed.
The bolt securing the fork 1 and 2 of the transmission is unscrewed.
The transmission rod 1 and 2 is removed.
The locking block 1 and 2 of the transmission is removed.
The fork for selecting these gears is removed.
The complete input shaft is removed.
The needle bearing is removed.
It is necessary to unfold the locking plate until it disengages from the groove.
The reverse gear axis is removed.
The intermediate ring is removed.
The key is removed from the groove of the secondary shaft.
The intermediate bearing is removed.
The secondary shaft is recessed into the inside of the crankcase, thereby removing it.
Using a hammer, it is necessary to press out the secondary shaft bearing.
The sealing gland is removed.
The bearing from the 5th gear can be removed with a screwdriver, using it as a lever.

Gear ratios at the gearbox

The seventh model of the Zhiguli received a good version of a five-speed gearbox. The designers of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant took a box from a VAZ 2105 as a prototype, replaced the gear ratio of the main gearbox pair from 4.3 to 4.1, then to 3.9 and obtained the following gear ratios.

home	1st gear	2nd gear	3rd gear	4th gear	5th gear	Reverse
4,1/3,9	3,667	2,100	1,361	1,000	0,820	3,530

The gear ratio is the ratio of the number of teeth on the driven gear to the number of teeth on the drive gear.

Primary shaft

The input shaft transmits torque from the engine crankshaft through the clutch disc to the gearbox. The disc is located on the splines of the front part of the shaft. A constant mesh gear is rigidly mounted on the shaft.

For free rotation, it is placed in two bearings. One bearing is located at the end of the crankshaft, the other is in the front cover of the gearbox.

Secondary shaft

In a complex gearbox mechanism, the secondary shaft is the final stage in converting torque and transmitting it to the cardan. The gears of the first three speeds move freely on this shaft. At a certain gear, they engage with the intermediate shaft gears and provide the required torque.

The shaft is placed in bearings, there are three of them. One is pressed into the end of the input shaft, the other into the box body, and the third into the rear cover.

Intermediate shaft

The intermediate shaft transmits rotation from the primary shaft to the secondary shaft.

He plays the role of a satellite. The gears and shaft are made from a single piece. It is installed on three bearings. The gears for fifth and reverse speed are located on it.

Forks

In the process of switching speeds, forks are involved, which move gears along the shaft to a certain place.

The gear shift lever moves the forks.

How much does a classic gearbox weigh?

A car's gearbox can be: Weighs together with the clutch, shift lever and clutch release fork 26.2 kg.

How much does a manual transmission weigh?

How much does a manual transmission weigh in kg? About 50.

How many gears are there on a VAZ 2101?

The VAZ 2101 4-speed manual transmission was introduced in 1970 and served as the ancestor of a series of classic manual transmissions that are still installed today. This transmission is essentially a reinforced version of the box from Fiat 124. The classic family also includes gearboxes: 2105, 2106 and 2107.

How much does the rear axle of the VAZ 2101 weigh?

52 kilograms – rear axle; 7 kilograms – radiator; 280 kilograms is the actual weight of the VAZ 2101 body.

How much does the gearbox on a VAZ 2106 weigh?

Body weight 300 kg. Curb weight of the VAZ-2106 is 1045 kg. Engine with equipment - 140 kg, gearbox - 26, Cardan - 10, ZM - 52, wheel assembly with tire - 15, radiator - 7 kg.

How much does it cost to scrap a VAZ 2106?

Scrap car prices table

Automobile	Blockage	Price
VAZ (LADA) 2106	25 %	7100
VAZ (LADA) 2107	25 %	7100
VAZ (LADA) 2109	25 %	6500
Moskvich-412	25 %	7100

How much does an automatic transmission weigh?

For information. A dry automatic transmission at 3.5 weighs 75 kg.

How many gears are there on a VAZ 2105?

The 4-speed manual VAZ 2105 was introduced in 1979 along with the second generation of the classic Zhiguli and its new engine. The manual transmission differed from its predecessors in other gear ratios. The classic family also includes gearboxes: 2101, 2106 and 2107.

How does VAZ 2101 stand for?

How to engage reverse gear on a VAZ 2101?

To engage reverse gear, push the lever down to compress its spring. In this case, the protrusion of the lever will drop below the petal of the locking bracket 63, and you can move the gear shift lever back until the reverse gear is fully engaged.

How much does the rear axle gearbox on a VAZ weigh?

Rear axle – 52 kg; Radiator – 7 kg; Body – 280 kg.

How much does the rear axle of a gazelle weigh?

How much does the rear axle weigh?

Good afternoon If you do the math, the mass of the rear axle will be from 800 to 1000 kg. The total weight of the tractor is 2595 kg, the engine weight is about 400 kg, the front axle weight is from 200 to 400 kg.

Technical characteristics of manual transmission

In the operating instructions, the technical characteristics of the box are indicated together with the characteristics of the transmission. This is given in tabular form:

Clutch	Single-disk, dry with hydraulic drive and central diaphragm spring
Transmission	Mechanical, five-speed, three-way, three-shaft, with synchronizers on all forward gears
Gear ratios
First	3.667
Second	2.100
Third	1.361
Fourth	1.000
Fifth	0.820
Reverse	3.530
Cardan transmission	Twin-shaft with intermediate support and elastic coupling
main gear	Hypoid
Final drive ratio	3.9 or 4.1
Differential	Conical, two-satellite

Posts 1 page 7 of 7

ShareDecember 129, 2016 15:25:30

Author: Kolkhoznik

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I can’t find such information, I found several drawings, but there is not a single drawing from the bell side... that is, if you look directly at the input shaft, that is, from the end of the box. What is the width of the box without the clutch bell ? If what I wrote is wrong, please correct the moderator

ShareDecember 229, 2016 15:51:42

Author: Vitalij
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Collective farmer

I can measure it, but later.

ShareDecember 329, 2016 15:53:42

Author: Kolkhoznik
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Let's wait. I would really like it if at its widest point it was, at most, 20 cm

Share4 December 29, 2016 16:23:13

Author: Kolkhoznik
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What kind of gearbox can be installed on a VAZ 2107

Initially, the “Seven” was produced with a “four-speed”, so you can install any VAZ gearbox from rear-wheel drive “Zhiguli” on it. You should know what functions the car will perform. If you use it as a workhorse, carry loads, pull a trailer, then a four-speed gearbox will do. It is more durable and resistant to variable loads. If high-speed driving on highways is necessary, then a five-speed gearbox is suitable.

It is possible to install boxes from foreign cars.

The best option is a box from an Italian Fiat model, since this is a prototype of our VAZ.

You can also install it from an early model BMW, but for installation you will have to redo the fastenings.

Transmission malfunctions

The box on the seventh model Zhiguli is considered a reliable unit. If you maintain it regularly and treat it with care during operation, then repairs will not be needed for a long time. However, all components and parts are subject to wear. There are many reasons for this. In any case, if a malfunction is detected in the gearbox, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and repairs.

Most malfunctions occur of the following types.

One of the gears does not engage

Without opening the box, we can assume that:

the hinges and springs are worn out and need to be replaced, or better yet, a complete repair;
on synchronizers, the rings have become unusable and need to be replaced;
synchronizer spring burst, replace;
The teeth on the transmission gears are worn, replace the gear.

Knocks out gear when driving

It happens that when you turn on a gear, it does not turn off randomly. Possible reasons:

the lever hinge is jammed, inspect and clean;
the clutch is faulty, it may not engage completely, adjust it, if the disc is worn, replace it;
The shift lever is broken, replace it with a new one;
Forks, shift gears are bent, replace with new ones.

Crunching and grinding in the box while driving

This problem appears for the following reasons:

the bearings are worn out, they should be replaced, and at the same time check the seals;
the teeth of the gears are worn out, in this case it is better to make a major repair;
There is not enough or no lubricating fluid in the gearbox, find the leak and fix it, add oil.

Grease leaking from box

The gearbox is designed so that lubricant cannot leak out spontaneously. But if an oil stain has formed under the car, an inspection should be made and the leak eliminated.

The reason may be:

wear of oil seals and sealing gaskets due to natural aging of rubber must be replaced with new ones;
the fastenings of the covers on the box have become loose, tighten all the nuts and bolts completely;
mechanical damage to the body or lids of the box; if the steel lid is damaged, it can be welded. If the crankcase is damaged, it is better to replace it, since it is cast from an aluminum alloy.

REPAIR

The VAZ 2107 has -speed gearbox, which, despite the comparative simplicity of its design, can become unusable for reasons classic for manual transmissions:

wear and tear due to natural reasons: high mileage, irregular operation and depletion of the service life of components, weather conditions not meeting the desired ones, and as a result - a decrease in service life, etc.;
non-compliance of the working fluid with standards suitable for normal operation of the transmission;
non-original spare parts included in the box;
damage to the gearbox housing due to mechanical impact;

When it comes to the gearbox, even if it is a Zhiguli, the best option would be to entrust diagnostics and maintenance to specialists at a service station. Fortunately, repairing it will not cost too much, except in rare cases that require a complete replacement of the entire mechanism, when it would be more advisable to purchase the same new car.

Gearbox seals and their replacement

Oil seals in any mechanism where they exist act as gaskets. In this case, they are designed to seal the holes from which the primary and secondary shafts come out. Previously, oil seals were cast from rubber.

Currently made from modern composite materials, more resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments.

Input shaft oil seal

The oil seal, which is installed on the input shaft, has the following dimensions:

• outer diameter – 47 mm;
• internal diameter – 28 mm;
• width – 8 mm;
• weight – 20 grams.

It is installed in the shaft output hole in the clutch housing and serves to prevent lubricant from flowing through the shaft.

There is no difficulty in replacing the oil seal, but the gearbox will have to be removed.

The order of work to change the oil seal is as follows:

Remove the clutch cover from the gearbox.
Remove the release bearing and clutch fork.
Remove the used oil seal by picking it up with a screwdriver or knife.
Clean the place where the oil seal was located and wipe it dry.
Install the new oil seal in its original place.
Replace all the parts that were removed from the box in reverse order.

Secondary shaft oil seal

The oil seal, which is installed on the secondary shaft, is larger and has dimensions:

outer diameter – 56 mm;
internal diameter – 32 mm;
width – 10 mm;
weight – 10 grams.

It is installed at the output of the secondary shaft at the rear of the box.

The order of work to change the oil seal is as follows.

Unscrew the nut securing the flange, having previously secured it.
Remove the centering metal ring from the shaft.
Remove the flange and washer using a puller.
Pull out the old oil seal using a tool.
Clean and wash the seal area.
Install a new oil seal.

Front cover

It is installed in the clutch housing. Inside there is an oil seal for the input shaft. On the end wall there is a hole for draining transmission oil, which can flow out of the crankcase if the oil seal is worn. In addition, the box housing contains:

Primary and secondary shaft.
Gears, synchronizers.
Intermediate shaft with shift drive elements.

There is a filler hole in the left wall of the new VAZ-2107 gearbox. It is closed with a metal plug with a conical thread. At the bottom, the box housing is closed with a stamped steel cover. The crankcase is secured with ten nuts. There is a breather in its cavity. There is a passage for oil in the rear wall of the crankcase. it enters the cavity of the lid

Sources

https://7vaz.ru/remont/kpp-na-vaz-2107.html
https://rus-avtomir.ru/remont/kpp-vaz-2107
https://prometey96.ru/tyuning/korobka-vaz-2107.html
https://kalina-2.ru/remont-vaz/razborka-sborka-kpp-vaz-2107-5-stupka
https://iga-motor.ru/avtomobili/kak-raspolovinit-korobku.html
https://GrandFart.ru/tormoza/korobka-pyatistupka.html
https://AvtoSotka.ru/korobka-peredach/sborka-kpp-vaz-2107.html
https://CoptersWorld.ru/pro-dvigatel/transmissiya-vaz-2107.html

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Replacing gears and synchronizers

The work of replacing gears and synchronizers is one of the most difficult when repairing a gearbox. There is a standard repair kit containing all the necessary parts to help cope with the task. It is advisable to prepare a special tool.

Gears and synchronizers on the primary and secondary shafts are changed in almost the same way.

The process goes like this:

remove the shaft from the box;
clamp the shaft in a vice, wrapping it in something soft;
Remove the retaining ring from the shaft using a special tool or a screwdriver:
press the bearings off the shaft;
remove the shaft from the vice, place it vertically, resting the first gear on two supports;
carefully press the gear off the shaft;
Carry out similar operations with the remaining gears and synchronizers.

Removing and replacing the fifth gear gear occurs differently.

The video clearly shows and explains how to do this:

Splines and forks

There is a reverse gear between the wall of the VAZ-2107 gearbox housing and the fifth gear. Since it produces a reverse movement, the part is not connected directly, but through an intermediate gear. It is installed on the axis of the rear wall of the transmission housing. The gear fork fits into the groove of the gear. When it moves, the intermediate element engages with the reverse gear. The secondary shaft has synchronization clutch hubs. They are motionless. A speed synchronization clutch is put on the gear ring of the hub.

As for the shift fork, it fits into the annular groove of the synchronization clutch. The latter moves along with the movement of the rod. The clutch begins to act on the synchronizer blocking ring and, as a result, moves it. Thanks to the friction force, the rotation speed of the hub and gear is equalized. The teeth mesh with the gear timing ring. Torque begins to flow to the secondary shaft through the hub and clutch from the gear.

Transmission oil for gearboxes

To select gear oil for the Lada gearbox, you need to take into account the region where the car will be operated.

Two types of oils are offered. The first - with a temperature range from +35 to -26, this is SAE 80W85 and the second - with a temperature range from +45 to -40, this is SAE 75W90.

The best oil is synthetic, but semi-synthetic and mineral oils will not harm the Seven’s transmission. The amount of oil in the VAZ 2107 gearbox is about 1.6 liters. The oil change time is carried out according to the instructions in the technical instructions supplied with the car.

Manual transmission oil level

The oil level in the box is checked as follows:

drive the car onto an overpass or pit;
clean the filler plug;
unscrew the plug;
measure through the hole with a probe or other object resembling a probe. The oil should be level with the end of the filler hole; top up if necessary.

Oil change

It is better to change the oil on an overpass or pit with a warm engine, so the oil will drain faster. Prepare the tool in advance, a container for working out at least two liters, oil for changing.

The order is as follows:

clean the fill and drain plugs from dirt;

Place the prepared container for used oil under the drain hole;

open the drain hole and wait until the oil completely drains into the container;
clean the plug of old oil and close the drain hole;
pour 1.5 liters of new oil into the box through the filler hole (it’s better to fill it with a supercharger);

let it sit for ten minutes, then check the level and top up if necessary.