Sound signal VAZ 2107: device, malfunctions and repairs

01/26/2022 17,049 VAZ 2107

Author: Ivan Baranov

The sound signal, also called a horn, plays an important role in ensuring safety on the road, as it makes it possible to attract the attention of other road users. The article discusses the situation when the signal does not work on a VAZ 2107: causes of malfunctions, methods of elimination, the possibility of its repair and replacement.

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Tips for motorists

From a road safety perspective, the horn plays an important role in preventing road accidents. On a VAZ-2107 car, depending on the modification, two sound signals of different tones can be installed behind the radiator of the cooling system, or one sound signal, which will be installed behind the front radiator trim.

To put it into operation, a horn button is installed on the steering wheel, and in the mounting block there is a fuse F7 (20A) and a horn relay RS-528. But on some VAZ-2107 cars this relay will not be installed, and in its place there will simply be stand jumper.

If there is no sound signal, troubleshooting should begin by checking the fuse . You need to look not only whether it has burned out or not, but also the condition of its contacts. The horn relay, if your car has one, can be checked quite simply; when you press the horn button, it should click; if the click is not heard, you will have to replace it.

The sound signals themselves can be checked without removing them from the installation site. To do this, disconnect the wires going to it and connect the horn directly to the battery . If there is no signal, a possible malfunction may be burning of the contacts located inside the audio signal housing or a violation of its adjustment. You can adjust the tone by turning the adjusting screw located at the back of the horn housing and gently turning it in one direction or the other.

Installing an additional button on the VAZ 2107 sound signal

The moving contact between the steering wheel and the steering column of the VAZ 2107 fails over time. His foot loses elasticity and the contact parts no longer touch. To prevent such a situation, car owners often install an additional button to sound a sound signal, duplicating the functions of the button on the steering wheel, that is, connecting the relay to ground. It is installed in any convenient place, most often on the instrument panel near the steering wheel.


Often VAZ 2107 owners install an additional button to sound the sound signal.

An additional button is installed as follows.

  1. We make a hole of a suitable diameter on the instrument panel.
  2. We install the button in the hole made.
  3. If the button is three-contact, we determine which contacts close when it is pressed. This can be done using a multimeter.
  4. In the common wiring harness, we find the wire going to the ZS button on the steering wheel. This is usually a gray wire with a black stripe.
  5. We connect this or a wire parallel to it to one of the contacts of the button.
  6. We connect the second terminal of the button to ground.

A button connected in this way will repeat the functions of a button on the steering wheel.

Personal experience shows that using the signal button installed on the instrument panel is inconvenient. You won’t be able to get used to it enough to promptly sound a beep without looking at it. As a result, precious fractions of a second are lost when they could be vital. It's worth spending the money and taking a little time to fix your steering wheel signal.

↑ What to do if the sound signal does not work?

To detect a malfunction, check the reliability of the wire connections, the condition of the switch and relay contacts. If necessary, clean the contacts. Replace faulty horn, switch or relay with new ones.

If the signal strength decreases or wheezing appears, check to see if the battery voltage is low. If it is normal, then adjust the signal by turning the screw on its body in one direction or another until you get a loud and clear sound.

If the adjustment does not eliminate wheezing or the signal operates intermittently, then disassemble the signal and clean the contacts of its breaker.

When assembling the signal, it is necessary to install the same gasket between the membrane and the signal housing so as not to disturb the gap between the core and the armature.

A car horn is a very important detail that ensures traffic safety and helps prevent collisions with other cars and a collision with a pedestrian who suddenly runs out onto the road. Different car models use different horn designs, but in our article we will talk about the original VAZ-2107. From it you will learn on what principle the signal works, what modifications of it can be used in these machines, and also what to do in the event of a breakdown.

Signal interchangeability

If the alarm device cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with another one.

All modern horns can be divided into two types: pneumatic and electromagnetic (video author - Russia 24).

In the first type of sound signals, the air flow moves from the compressor through a pipe, which, under the influence of vibration, begins to make sounds. Pneumatic devices differ in the shape of the tube and the power of sound. The frequency range of the audio signal covers several audio zones. Several pipes can be installed, but they require a powerful compressor.

The operation of an electromagnetic device is based on an electromagnet, which is connected to the main element of a horn of this type, a membrane. The core winding is connected to a power source (battery) using a breaker. The horn button is connected to ground. When you press it, the core rod begins to move, thus exerting an effect on the membrane. The result is a powerful sound.

Electromagnetic horns differ in the design of the sound emitter:

  1. Disc horns (“pancakes”). They are manufactured in two versions: non-separable and collapsible. In addition, it can be closed or open.
  2. Snail sounds. They are curved, making them difficult to install. The open end of the socket should point forward. “Snails” make it possible to get a very loud sound.
  3. Horns have a tube that looks like a straightened snail. Outwardly they look like a horn or a trumpet. They are convenient to install under the hood, but their sound power is weak.

Pneumatic type horn

Disk signal

Klaxons horns

When choosing a sound device, you should pay attention to several nuances:

  1. Before purchasing, you should evaluate the capabilities of the battery. It is important that its charge is sufficient to power the buzzer, as it consumes a large amount of energy.
  2. You should check with the seller whether the horn needs additional power or a compressor.
  3. High frequencies produce a subtle sound. Low frequencies are suitable for bass lovers.
  4. It must be remembered that trucks have a 24 V on-board network, and passenger cars have 12 V. It should be noted that the use of “quacks” and special signals is prohibited.

Where is the signal located on a VAZ-2107 car?

The domestic automaker is releasing to the market several modifications of the VAZ-2107 car model, which is beloved by consumers. The design and location of each of them has a number of its own features:

  • in some versions of the car, only one sound signal is used, which is mounted immediately behind the front lining of the cooling radiator. In this case, you can easily reach the part and replace it if the need arises;
  • A number of modifications are equipped with two sound signals at once. They are installed directly behind the radiator and have different tones, which makes it possible to quite loudly warn pedestrians and drivers of other cars about the possible danger of a collision.

The RS-528 sound signal relay is mounted in the mounting block of both machines, which is often one of the main causes of breakdowns of this part.

In addition, the circuit can include fuse F7, which prevents the supply of excessively high voltage and its surges, as well as a button located directly on the steering wheel.

Complete absence of signal

The reason for this may be:

  • fuse blown;
  • breakage or damage to connecting wires;
  • oxidation or poor contact in connectors;
  • malfunction of the signal activation button;

To determine the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it, we first check the integrity of fuse F7 in the mounting block. After this, we check the +12V power supply to the device (red wire), for which you can use a tester or test lamp. If there is no voltage, check for breaks and integrity of the wire insulation (replace if necessary), clean and crimp its tip.

If there is power supply at the terminal with the red wire, we short the second terminal for connecting the button (gray wire with black stripes) to ground with a piece of wire. If the sound signal is triggered, then the fault must be looked for in the connection circuit of the signal button or in the button itself (broken wire, oxidation of contacts). If the signal does not work, then the reason is itself and it must be replaced.

Checking the functionality of the relay and fuse

What to do if the signal on a VAZ-2107 car does not work, and for what reasons can it fail? The most common one is a blown fuse. Under increased load, it fails and interrupts the electrical circuit, thereby eliminating more serious emergency situations.

If you are faced with the problem of a blown fuse, you must replace it immediately. In addition, you will need to carefully inspect the contacts of this part, carefully clean them of carbon deposits and dirt, or perform repairs.

The next stage of diagnostics is to check the functionality of the sound signal relay. If it clicks when you press the button, then the cause of the breakdown needs to be looked for elsewhere. Otherwise, the relay will need to be replaced, which can be done within a few minutes even without the relevant experience.

Malfunctions of the electrical signal circuit:

1) check the presence of incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, “plus” is constant, but the signal was controlled by “minus”). If there is a plus and a minus that appears, when you press the horn, replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable and must be replaced if they fail);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

– the signal wheezes or disappears:

– the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning the steering wheel:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (too much “pressed” towards the steering wheel);

2) Ground circuit on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some KALINA and PRIORA models the signals are connected to the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, acts as a security system and alarm), and some reasons for the malfunction of the signals may be associated with it.

Although the sound signal on a car plays a secondary role, driving a vehicle with a faulty signal is prohibited by traffic rules. Owners should regularly check the serviceability of the sound alarm, and this is especially true for outdated car brands, such as the VAZ 2107. If the signal on the VAZ 2107 does not work, then do not despair, sometimes it takes no more than 5 minutes to fix the breakdown. We will find out in detail what types of signal malfunctions occur on sevens.

We diagnose the signal and its activation buttons

In order to find out whether your car uses a correctly working signal, you should disconnect its wires from the relay and connect them directly to the battery. If the sound does not appear in this case, the causes of the breakdown may be the following:

  • contacts located directly in the device body are burnt or heavily soiled;
  • The signal is not configured correctly, causing the dial tone to sound very low or not audible at all.

Troubleshooting is done by adjusting the signal (to do this you just need to turn a special screw installed in the back of the case) and cleaning the contacts.

Another reason why the signal may not work is a broken or worn button. To restore its normal functioning, you can either replace the entire part, or again put the contacts to which the wires are connected in perfect order.

As you can see, you don’t have to go to a car service center to diagnose and repair the sound signal. Almost any work can be easily done with your own hands without spending a lot of time on it. We only strongly recommend that you do not delay this, so as not to expose yourself to the risk of a traffic accident due to a non-functioning horn.

Sound signal circuit and its repair

Sound signal device

The sound signal on the VAZ 2107 comes in the following versions:

  1. Two separate signals: type S-304 (low tone) and S-305 (high tone). Mounting - on the bracket, to the left of the radiator.
  2. The only non-separable signal of type 20.3721-01, one tone, with a built-in relay. Mounting is on a bracket outside the radiator, immediately behind the decorative grille.

The operation diagram of the sound signal is as follows: two wires are connected to the sound signal itself. The red wire is “plus”. This part of the circuit is constantly energized. The gray-black wire is “ground, minus”; in the normal state it is de-energized, and current begins to flow through it when shorted. The photo clearly shows the color of the wires and two separate signals with brackets.

The “negative” part of the chain is long. When you press the central steering wheel button, the spring contacts close. They are located in the switch housing under the steering wheel.

The slip ring is attached to the back of the steering wheel. Its task is to ensure good contact through friction and provide a signal whenever the steering wheel is turned. Therefore, the ring must be lubricated with conductive graphite lubricant to avoid wear.

Then, the current is transmitted through the wire as part of the engine compartment harness to the switch and relay mounting block. The location of the horn relay (switch) is third on the right (if you are sitting behind the wheel).

Horn relay functions:

  • The length of wires and current losses in them are reduced.
  • With the help of a relay, a button with a small current can control a circuit with a large load.

Sometimes the circuit does not provide a relay; instead, a jumper that is connected “directly” works. In the case of a single signal 20.3721-01, this is justified, since it has a built-in relay. If there are two “snails”, it is advisable to install a relay to improve operation.

After the relay, the current passes through fuse F7. The new mounting blocks have a 20 A flag-type fuse, yellow. Older units have 16 A fuses. Their lifespan is often insufficient, since this fuse also serves in the cooling fan circuit.

Further, after leaving the mounting block as part of the wiring harness of the engine compartment, the “negative” wire goes directly to the sound signal.

Checking operation and repairing in case of sound signal malfunctions

There are three malfunctions: it doesn’t sound when needed; works when not needed, or sounds intermittently, hoarsely, quietly. Unlike the high-voltage ignition system, which is little affected by the quality of the connection, the horn system is low-voltage. This means that the film of oxides and rust significantly impedes the passage of current. But signals are a powerful current consumer. The current in the circuit is at least 4-5 A.

The quality of all contacts must be perfect, otherwise repairs will be needed constantly. Remember that the car body itself is a “negative” contact, and in the direction of current movement, all oxides settle on the “plus”. Pay special attention to stripping the terminals of the red, “positive” wire.

Sound insulation of VAZ 2107 doors

Doors are soundproofed to get rid of outside noise and also to improve the sound quality of the speaker system. The kit for soundproofing doors only provides material for vibration damping, but meanwhile it wouldn’t hurt to treat the surface with a sound absorber like Splen.

We treat the inside of the door with the first layer; we apply the pasting through special technological holes. We use Vibroplast Silver as the material. First of all, we cover the area behind the speaker. The second layer is laid with Splen 4 mm.

Next we glue the outside of the door, in the place under the cards. Ideal for audiophiles for these purposes. In this case, we completely seal all the technological holes in order to seal the volume of the door in which the speaker is located. Pasting with a vibration filter will increase the rigidity of the door, which will have a very positive effect on the sound of the acoustics. We cover the outside of the door with Vibroplast and on top with Splen for sound insulation.

To prevent door cards from creaking and making unnecessary noise, they can be treated with an anti-creaking agent, which is suitable for the thickest Bitoplast. Don’t forget about the “crickets” inside the door, and additionally cover the rods and handles with Madeline.

VAZ 2109: starter malfunctions - looking for reasons

Starter for VAZ 2109
Starter, without it you can’t start the car, which means you won’t go far. The success of the trip depends on its performance. Therefore, you need to figure out how to prevent its failure, or fix an existing breakdown. Let’s consider in more detail:

  • Alarm Signals
  • Malfunctions

Alarm Signals

The starter is the highest-loaded electrical consumer in a car. If, when starting the car, an extraneous sound, noise, crackling appears, or it becomes clear that changes have occurred in the operation of the starter, you must take action without delay. On the VAZ 2109, problems with the starter can be different, some of them can be eliminated with your own hands by reading , how to do it or by watching the video. Here is a small instruction on malfunctions.

Malfunctions

So:

  • If the starter on a VAZ 2109 does not start, first you need to do a basic check
      Check if the battery is dead.
  • Check the fuse in the fuse box for the starter.
  • Check the relay responsible for the starter, it is located in the engine compartment (photo 2).

Changing the relay (Photo 2)

If, however, the starter does not work on the VAZ 2109 and the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist.

  • On VAZ 2109 the starter barely turns
      you need to make sure that the battery charge is normal
  • Is the alternator belt too tight?

Advice! If the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist; perhaps the starter bushings are worn out or another reason. More often on a VAZ 2109, the starter turns poorly due to wear of the front bushing installed in the engine crankcase.

  • On a VAZ 2109, the starter sticks (by turning the key to the “engine start” mode, the starter is activated for 1-2 seconds, which is not enough to start the engine and stops)
      you need to make sure that the terminals on the battery are not heating up, and that the positive wire leading to the starter is not heating up. If it gets hot, it means there is a bad connection.
  • The armature bushings may need to be replaced.
  • On a VAZ 2109 the starter sticks, in other words on a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn off (releasing the key after starting the engine, the starter continues to work)
      The additional starter relay (not the solenoid relay) may have failed.
  • It is possible that the contacts (nickels) of the starter solenoid relay are sticking.
  • Or there is a malfunction in the contact group of the ignition switch - the contacts have fused.
  • On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn in the cold (the starter turns a little, but with a lot of tension, or does not turn at all)
      Most likely, in the cold, the chemical processes in the battery have stopped. You need to turn on the light for a few minutes; this will help accelerate the battery.
  • Another option involves heating the battery in a warm room (do not make the temperature difference too large, for example, placing it in hot water)
  • You can also start the car by throwing power from another car
  • If the previous options did not help, the battery needs to be replaced.
  • On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks (when you hold the key in the “engine start” mode, the relay automatically turns on and off)
      Dead battery

This happens because there is enough battery charge for the solenoid relay to operate. When the contacts close, the starter consumes a lot of current, but this current is not enough for it to work. The voltage on the battery drops, and the solenoid relay returns to its original position. There is no more load, again there is enough current for the retractor to work. The actions are repeated. So:

  • On a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn on (the solenoid relay turned on, but the starter did not turn on)
      Starter brushes are worn out (photo 3)
  • The starter may have burned out
  • starter jammed

Advice! If the starter is burned out, sometimes it is more advisable to buy a new starter; the price of the starter varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The brushes are worn out and do not reach the anchor (photo 3)

  • On VAZ 2109 the starter is cracking
      Flywheel teeth are broken or worn. (photo 4)
  • The bendix (the mechanism that engages with the flywheel) is worn out.

This is where the starter is cracking (Photo 4)

Advice! One of the most common starter malfunctions is armature play. How to eliminate play in the VAZ 2109 starter armature. The sliding bushings need to be replaced. The greatest difficulty for some is replacing the front bushing located in the crankcase (photo 5). Namely, how to get this bushing?

Solutions

So:

  • We select a suitable tap, screw it into the bushing and pull it out.
  • Or cut the bushing with a sharp object (screwdriver, small chisel, etc.)

Bushing in the body (photo 5)

At first glance, there are a lot of starter malfunctions, but nothing is impossible. What is made by human hands can definitely be repaired, and with the necessary knowledge and skills, this can be done much faster and with better quality. Good repair.

Soundproofing the ceiling of VAZ 2107

Roof treatment is carried out in order to reduce noise coming from outside and remove all “crickets”. The result of soundproofing the ceiling of the “seven” exceeds all expectations. If, for example, you slap your hand on the roof of a car body, you will get a dull sound, like hitting a thick board. Moreover, when it rains heavily, the sound of drops beating on the metal roof is practically inaudible, which brings comfort to the driver.

The kit for soundproofing a car does not include materials for ceiling treatment. Therefore, the material should be Vibroplast Gold or Silver, as well as Splen 4 or 8 mm. The vibroplast is cut out in place, and the sound insulator is glued in a single sheet. The width of a Vibroplast roll is approximately equal to the width of the roof, so you can simply cut the material into rectangular pieces. The length of the sheets should be adjusted to the distance between the roof reinforcements.

We remove the standard “Shumka” from the ceiling and treat the bare metal with rags and degreaser. The joints between ceiling reinforcements with iron can be filled with sealant.

Next, you should glue the first layer of vibration damper. You can’t handle soundproofing the ceiling alone, invite an assistant. One will heat the material with a construction hairdryer, the other will glue it and immediately roll it with a special roller.

Next, the surface should be covered with Spleen. It must be applied as a continuous sheet, away from the windshield. On uneven areas, the material can be heated with a heat gun and stretched as needed. Splen can be applied in one layer or two. Don’t get carried away with unnecessary layers, because you still need to put it back.

At the final stage, you will need to install the standard sound insulation back and insert the rear window.

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