Ignition on Audi 80: how to set it correctly

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Share105.01.2011 05:05

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• Car: Audi 80 B2 1980 internal combustion engine RP 1.8 red carb SOLEX 5 manual transmission

Suitable for most Wolksvagen 4 cylinder SOHC (single camshaft) petrol engines.

abbreviations: TDC - top dead center. UOZ - ignition timing angle. Gearbox - gearbox, timing gear - gas distribution mechanism. Cylinder head - cylinder head. STO - technical station. service. )))

ATTENTION: If you don't know whether your engine bends the valves or not. Never crank the engine with the belt disconnected or loose. If the drive belt was removed, check the valve timing. If the engine has a belt, place the first cylinder at TDC.

1. Marks for initial ignition installation

1-1.The crankshaft has 2 TDC marks. one on the V-belt pulley (Fig. 1), the other “0” on the flywheel in the window of the gearbox housing (Fig. 2). There is also a “|” mark on the flywheel. UOZ, more on her later.

ATTENTION: If you purchase a new flywheel, then to make your future life easier, it is advisable to mark the risk of the OZ because. It is not available on the supplied flywheels. Also, with the engine or gearbox removed, it would not be superfluous to check the distance from the “0” mark to the “|” mark. UOZ (Fig. 9). We will use it to set the ignition.

1-2. The camshaft has several marks: on the inside (Fig. 3), and on the outside (Fig. 4). We are interested in the internal mark (Fig. 3).

1-3. There is also a mark on the intermediate shaft (Fig. 1). Many people do not perceive it, but we will take it into account (to do this, you will need to remove the lower, plastic timing case, Fig. 7). Or without removing the lower casing (Fig. 8)

1-4. And the mark on the ignition distributor (in the world of Trambler) directed towards the contact of the first cylinder (Fig. 6)

2. Let's prepare the engine for operation. So we found all the marks. There is nothing easier than combining them. To complete the description, let’s imagine that our engine is semi-disassembled, in particular, the valve cover, camshaft, ignition distributor, crankshaft pulley, and timing belt are removed.

NOTE: On some engine models, the pistons do NOT meet the valves and the camshaft and crankshaft can be turned. If you are not sure, remove the camshaft or contact a service station.

2-1.To avoid damaging the valves, lower the pistons to one level. To do this, unscrew the spark plugs (if they are not already unscrewed) and insert a mild steel rod into cylinders 1 and 2. By turning the crankshaft in the direction of rotation, we equalize the pistons. In this case, 1 piston should move from bottom to top (later it remains to turn 90 degrees). This way we move all the pistons away from the cylinder head. You can fix the crankshaft with a pin in the box through the starter window, but it seems to me that it is enough to turn on speed 3 or 4 and use the handbrake

2-2. We install the camshaft in place (see how to do it in the corresponding section). Place the timing belt on the crankshaft gear. We fasten the crankshaft pulley (without turning or tightening).

3. Set the tags. 3-1. Set the camshaft mark level with the plane of the cylinder head on the side of the spark plugs (Fig. 3). In this case, the cams of the first cylinder are directed symmetrically upward in different directions 3-2. We turn the crankshaft by 90 degrees. until the mark on the flywheel in the window of the gearbox casing aligns with the triangular bead. (Fig. 2) 3-3. Set the mark on the intermediate shaft. It should coincide with the mark on the crankshaft pulley (Fig. 1). 3-4 We place the distributor so that the slider looks at the line of the 1st cylinder (Fig. 6). The marks on the distributor and the intermediate shaft must match. (this is necessary so that later when replacing the timing belt we do not torment ourselves and others with ignition problems) The distributor must have free space for rotation in both directions

Now we are ready to put on the timing belt. We put on a belt and bend it slightly. We check all the marks, and after making two turns, ALL marks should fall into place. If the marks are in place, everything is ok. You can collect further. Don’t forget to put on the cover and tighten the V-belt pulley on the crankshaft. 1-3-4-2 The order of operation of the cylinders is calculated from the timing belt

If everything is correct , everything works. All that remains is to correct it.

Ignition on Audi 80: how to set it correctly

Updated: 2016-11-22 Author: audi39 Number of comments: 1

Setting the ignition is a problem that car owners will face sooner or later. Setting the Audi 80 ignition is carried out using 3 marks:

• "0" on the flywheel;
• on the crankshaft pulley;
• on the camshaft.

Important! When removing the distributor cap, you must be careful, since not everyone can remember the original position of all parts. The consequences of such “forgetfulness” are disastrous; after putting the cover back in place, the car may not start. Therefore, it is recommended to draw marks in advance.

Everything an audio driver needs to know about the ignition system of an iron friend

Sooner or later, every car owner is faced with the problem of needing to configure the ignition system (IS) in his car. And Audi owners are no exception. From this article you can find out what the ignition coil of an Audi 80 b3 car is, how to diagnose and how to properly configure the module.

How to check the ignition module?

How to configure and repair SZ on an Audi A6, five or Audi 100 C4? Before removing the distributor cover and contact group for repair, it is necessary to understand the diagnostics of the unit.

First, a visual check of the system is carried out, it is carried out as follows:

1. First you need to check whether all contacts and terminals are tightly fixed directly on the coil itself, the ECM, the system and injection control unit, as well as the distributor. Make sure that no contact on the multi-pin plug has come loose and does not need to be cleaned to prevent oxidation.
2. Look at the short circuit - perhaps the sealing compound could leak out of it. If this is the case, then most likely the element will have to be changed. In addition, if the device has cracks, other damage, or traces of carbon deposits that appear in the event of a spark, the unit will also need to be replaced.
3. It would be a good idea to check the quality of the connection of the main wiring, as well as the high-voltage circuits; in some cases, the problem with the operation of the Audi 80 ignition switch may be due to poor insulation. Repair may also be required if the distributor cap is damaged; you should especially take time to diagnose its inside.
4. Most importantly, are all components of the assembly dry and clean? If there is dirt and moisture on the SZ elements, this will cause electrical breakdowns to occur in the operation of the mechanism.

If, when checking the Audi 100 5 cylinders, no malfunctions are identified, but the engine still does not work as it should, then before removing the lock and looking for the cause, you need to check the spark plugs:

1. If you don’t know how to remove the spark plug, then to do this you just need to disconnect the high-voltage cable from the spark plug itself, and then unscrew the device from its installation location. After this, the cable is put on it again and the spark plug is placed on the cylinder head so that it has good contact with the head body.
2. At this moment, your assistant should try to start the engine by turning the starter.
3. If, when you try to start, you notice that a spark jumps between the spark plug and the block head, this will indicate that there is voltage in the network. Therefore, perhaps the cause of the malfunction lies in incorrect ignition adjustment.
4. If upon inspection it turns out that there is no spark, then a similar situation must be repeated with the remaining spark plugs. If there is no spark on any of them, the entire SZ should be diagnosed (author - Audi 80 Repair).

How to draw marks correctly

To do this, in cars with a starting handle, you can crank the engine, and if there is no handle, push the car with the overdrive engaged. With these manipulations, it is necessary to achieve a position where the marks on the crankshaft pulley and on the cylinder block coincide. Now you can remove the distributor cap without fear of consequences.

It is important to remember or photograph the position of the slider, in what position its spacer plate is located. After this, you can remove the ignition distributor. To avoid violating the position of the marks, it is not recommended to rotate the crankshaft immediately after removing the distributor.

To correctly set the slider before restoring the ignition, you should focus on the first cylinder of the engine. Experienced specialists may argue that the ignition on the Audi 80 can be set correctly for any cylinder. Indeed, knowing the order of operation of the cylinders of a four-stroke engine, you can easily determine in which position to put the slider.

How to set the slider correctly

Four-stroke engines operate in the following modes:

• intake - by moving the piston from top dead center (TDC) downwards, the intake valve opens, and the combustible mixture enters the rarefied space of the cylinder;
• compression - movement of the piston to TDC, the charge begins to be compressed by the piston, ignition of the combustible mixture occurs;
• power stroke - movement of the piston to bottom dead center (BDC) under pressure;
• exhaust - the piston moves towards TDC, the cylinder is cleaned of the spent mixture.

Ignition distributor vacuum, does it affect gas mileage?

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#61 VLADIMIR_RND

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• Rostov-on-Don

The vacuum cleaner makes it EARLIER as the vacuum drops. When starting, it immediately makes it as late as possible and releases it as the vacuum drops (load increases).

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#62 ZipeR

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Post edited by ZipeR: 30 January 2013 — 13:04 PM

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#63 VLADIMIR_RND

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#64 ZipeR

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Once again I’ll quote what I already posted here: The greater the load and the lower the vacuum (higher the pressure), the earlier the ignition. Here are the characteristics of the Audi 80 B2 distributors (aka Passat B2, aka Santana). Distributors DS and DT are the same as G2 1.6-1.8.

Earlier ignition with increasing load is necessary in order to ignite the richer power mixture earlier and give it time to flare up. I wrote to you about the TAZ, because... you have written "Tuning: VAZ electronic lighter. ". And in the TAZ the vacuum pump works in the other direction, unlike the VAG 1.6-1.8 for sure.

Post edited by ZipeR: 30 January 2013 — 17:34 PM

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The procedure for setting the ignition on the Audi 80

The exact guidelines for correctly setting the car’s ignition are provided by the manufacturer, so even an amateur can solve this problem if he sets the marks correctly, strictly following the following instructions:

• if the engine is stationary, it is necessary to install the flywheel at the top point of the cylinder number one;
• with the engine removed, place the mark on the pulley opposite the mark on the belt cover;
• aligning the mark on the distributor sprocket with the cylinder head cover;
• alignment of the wire protrusion slot and the threaded hole; if there is a seal on the pressure bolt, it must be removed;
• installing the distributor rotor towards the mark of cylinder number 1, which is located on the distributor housing;
• adjustment of the ignition timing (IPA);
• securing the clamping bolt to the distributor and installing a new seal;
• visual inspection of the distributor cover for cracks, dirt, dust, sand, fuel oil, cleaning the surface of the cover if necessary.

If all operations according to the instructions are carried out correctly, the engine will start with half a turn. The work is done, now we need to set up the ignition.

Adjusting the SOP with a strobe light

The ignition timing is necessary because when the piston is at top dead center, the spark is late to ignite the charge. Therefore, there is a VDC mark on the flywheel, which is located next to the TDC mark. The corresponding strobe wires are connected to the plus and minus of the battery, and another wire to the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. In this case, it flashes when the spark is on the first spark plug. Now, when the engine is turned on, when the strobe light blinks, the OZ mark will be visible. To correctly adjust the SPD, it is enough to turn the distributor to ensure that the SPD mark aligns with the middle of the gearbox window.

Adjusting the ignition by ear

If there is no strobe light, the ignition can be adjusted by ear as follows:

1. Start the engine and start driving. Accelerate to 45 km/h, engage fourth gear, sharply increase the speed.
2. Continue driving until detonation occurs - popping noises, ringing of fingers, which should disappear as the car accelerates.

If detonation continues during acceleration, we can conclude that the ignition is “early.” If there is no detonation at all, then ignition is “later”. The ignition is adjusted as follows: with early ignition, you need to turn the distributor clockwise, if it is later, counterclockwise.

Audi 80 › Logbook › Super precise ignition tuning UOZ audi 80 abt

During the struggle for low fuel consumption, I adjusted the ignition according to the manual (using marks and a slider); this method has a slight drawback: the slider itself is located high from the edge of the distributor body.

Therefore, to make precise adjustments, you need to look strictly along the axis of the slider (and in two planes), this is very problematic. To solve this problem, the following device was made:

From plexiglass (you can take any other material) 4 mm thick, I cut out the indicated “feet”. We remove the distributor cover, turn the flywheel so that the slider points to the wire of the 1st cylinder, and tighten it to the mark on the flywheel:

remove the slider, place our super device in the slot and turn the distributor until the mark on the body aligns to the middle of the “feel”

Set Ignition Audi 80 1.8

Updated: 2016-11-22 Creator: Alexander Quantity

Ignition is a problem that car owners will face. The Audi 80 is ignited using 3 marks:

Basically! Care must be taken when removing the distributor cap, as rarely does anyone understand the original position of all the parts. The consequences of this “forgetfulness” are disastrous; The vehicle may not start when the cap returns to the area. Therefore, it is recommended to draw labels in advance.

To do this, of course, on cars with a starting handle, start the engine, and in the absence of one, push the car with the gear. With these manipulations, it is necessary to achieve a position in which the marks on the crankshaft pulley on the cylinder block coincide. Now, of course, remove the distributor cap without fear of consequences.

It is important to understand, also called photographing the runner's position, what position the spacer plate is in. Then you can remove the ignition distributor. It is not recommended to unscrew the crankshaft immediately after removing the distributor to avoid markings.

To correctly position the slider before restoring the ignition, you need to focus on the first cylinder of the engine. Experienced experts say that the ignition installation on the Audi 80 is true, at least some cylinder. Although, knowing the order of operation of the cylinders of a four-stroke engine, you can simply find in which position to put the slider.

Four-stroke engines operate in the following modes:

Ignition timing

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#1 Laps

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#2 Diesel

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#3 Karel

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#4 Maxim

• City: Audi 80 1.8 SF

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#5 Karel

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#6 Maxim

• City: Audi 80 1.8 SF

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#7 Diesel

almost balanced driver

• Gender: Man
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#8 Karel

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#9 Maxim

• City: Audi 80 1.8 SF

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#10 Diesel

almost balanced driver

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#11 Maxim

• City: Audi 80 1.8 SF

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#12 Diesel

almost balanced driver

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#13 Eshik

• City: St. Petersburg
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On my distributor it’s like this: this mark is just a little drawing on the distributor body, it can be easily seen if you remove the casing (a plastic circle on the distributor axis under the slider. Well, of course, the distributor cover).

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#14 Maxim

• City: Audi 80 1.8 SF

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#15 Diesel

almost balanced driver

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#16 Laps

• City: Audi 100 2.3 NF automatic transmission

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#17 Sanych

The truth is somewhere near.

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People, tell me. Is there a method for installing a PPD without instruments? According to my book, SOP = 10 degrees. It’s a hassle to get to the station and there’s no time.

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#18 Karel

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#19 Laps

• City: Audi 100 2.3 NF automatic transmission

What engine are we talking about? NF? So there is 15 basic. And you don’t need to set it up - plug in the distributor correctly and everything else - according to the marks. And “by ear”, as Karel suggests, it is problematic to determine anything; the knock sensor will not allow

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#20 Sanych

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Adjusting the ignition of the Audi 80 b3 carburetor

To check and adjust the ignition timing, a tachometer and a strobe light are required to control the ignition.

Warm up the engine. The engine can be considered warmed up. when the lower radiator hose becomes warm. Minimum oil temperature is +60°C for a carburetor engine, +80°C for an engine with a fuel injection system.

• VEZ: The knock sensor is OK, but the engine electronics warning lamp does not indicate any malfunction.
• VEZ for 83/85 kW engines: the throttle position sensor switch (cold contacts) is switched on.

Attention: The idle speed and knock sensor contacts influence the ignition timing. If the knock sensor does not work, the ignition timing is shifted later by 10° in a later direction after each gas advance.

see also

Comments 40

After cleaning and adjusting the carb, the master set the ignition timing angle, started the train, when the temperature gets closer to 80-85, well, rarely up to 90 (before the fan kicks in), the engine starts to vibrate strongly; it runs roughly like a diesel engine and creates vibration in the steering wheel and a little in the floor (well, that’s from the exhaust) and at idle it twitches and the spark plug shoots into the exhaust (shits the spark plug) I did the ignition a little later, adjusted the CO2 (found the so-called hill) adjusted the idle, started it up, well, the engine runs smoother, the dynamics went a little, but it took about 13 seconds to reach a hundred it was 11 seconds. Now the question is whether the ignition does affect fuel consumption significantly or not?! I still did the ignition a little later, but the spark plug didn’t fire. :)

What is the right edge of the slot? There is a top or a bottom, it is perpendicular to the edges, so where?

Pivet, help me figure it out, I have a 100 2.0 ABK, so I do everything that you described, except for the vacuum tube, I don’t have it, so the problem is that when connecting the strobe. When it blinks, my engine starts to run smoothly, as soon as you turn it off it runs smoothly. Because of these irregularities, I can’t catch the mark; it flashes earlier and later, sometimes it shows evenly. Have you ever had such problems?

I changed the hall sensor in the distributor, all the marks were set by the slider at the output of cylinder 1, there is a spark, gasoline goes but does not catch a couple of times in the carb, it gave a little later and it started shooting into the exhaust, something in the middle, it was set and does not catch at all, what could be the reason?

Mixed up the phases. Change the wires by turning them 180 degrees

I changed the hall sensor in the distributor, all the marks were set by the slider at the output of cylinder 1, there is a spark, gasoline goes but does not catch a couple of times in the carb, it gave a little later and it started shooting into the exhaust, something in the middle, it was set and does not catch at all, what could be the reason?

camshaft for 3 teeth to the left should have been 1.8 according to the marks 1.6 for 3 teeth like a clock works

Why remove the hose and plug it?

I read that this is done in a book, when I take it off, the ignition shifts by the way, and if I put it on the strobe with a hose, the car starts to stall

Thank you, I set the hose to the strobe today, and it started getting dull. Everything is clear now!

I have a 1.8 RU engine, please tell me what I should do in the same way? I didn’t find the l mark, there is only a clear mark 0)

yes, I found the marks, first I painted them with white paint, then I saw them with a strobe light, mark I is about 1 cm to the right from zero

I have a mark I from zero 37mm, this is equal to 17 degrees, all the books say so. and how do you have a mark I from zero 10mm, someone knocked out the mark themselves, this is very little for our gasoline and in general. from 0 you need at least 14mm, it will be from 6 to 7 degrees, it’s advisable to catch 10 degrees and don’t worry. I tried to put a mark as the author writes, to combine the mark I with the right edge, it turned out very early the engine hits the groove when starting, as we say, that is, very early.

Thank you for the clear explanation of your actions. In general, align according to the mark! ON THE FLYWHEEL.

no, from the zero mark 1.5 cm

Everything is clearly described, thank you.

Help, the problem is in the word. After replacing the timing belt, I can’t catch a normal XX. After the replacement, my revolutions became higher than 1000. About 1100, and when I fluctuate in idle, for example, at 1200 revolutions, the sensor for supplying additional air to the system works and the needle drops to 900, and then the needle begins to ripple and begins to float. At 100, they turned the distributor and the revs were raised and lowered. How realistic is it to do it yourself? they twisted it and lifted it.

How to set the ignition on an Audi 80 B3

Ignition on Audi 80: true acceptance

Updated: 2016-11-22 Creator: Alexander Category: 80/90/4000 Quantity

Ignition is a problem that car owners will face. The Audi 80 is ignited using 3 marks:

• "0" on the flywheel;
• on the pulley there is a crankshaft
  ;
• to the camshaft.

Important! When removing the distributor cap, care must be taken, since not everyone is given the initial position of all parts. The consequences of this “forgetfulness” are disastrous; The machine may not start after replacing the cover. Therefore, it is recommended to draw labels in advance.

How to draw labels correctly

To do this in crank cars, you can start the engine and, if not, hit the car with the hitch. With these manipulations it is necessary to reach the position where the pulley is marked by the crankshaft

and assemble the cylinder block. Now you can remove the distributor cap without fear of consequences.

It is important to remember or photograph the position of the slider in which the spacer plate is located. You can then remove the ignition distributor. It is not recommended to rotate the crankshaft as soon as the distributor is removed to avoid marking.