Replacing and adjusting the handbrake cable of the LADA "Granta"

Replacing parking brake cables

The cables must be replaced simultaneously, left and right.
We install the car on a lift or inspection ditch

Unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod

Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod

We take out the cable ends from the equalizer and remove it

Replacing the Priora parking brake cable

Remove the end of the left cable sheath from the bracket

We disconnect the rear end of the left cable from the parking brake lever (described in the article How to repair the rear wheel brakes of a Lada Granta)

We remove the end of the cable and the brake shield

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the bracket securing the cable sheath to the rear suspension beam

Manual brake lever with rod assembly for Lada Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

We remove the cable sheath from the holder on the rear suspension beam mounting bracket

Use a screwdriver to bend the cable mounting bracket on the body and remove the cable from the bracket

Using a 10 mm high socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the heat shield of the tank

Removing the screen

We remove the cable from the holder on the body

How to tighten and adjust the handbrake on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands (+ video)

We remove the left parking brake cable from behind the protective screen of the fuel lines

Installing the parking brake cables

We mount one of the cables in the reverse order and insert its front end into the cable equalizer

Place the parking brake lever rod into the hole in the equalizer and tighten the adjusting nut several turns.

To install another cable, you can make a device from a metal tube about 30 cm long and a hole with a diameter of 15-16 mm.

At one end of the tube we drill a hole and cut a thread in it for a screw (M4-M6).

Cable installation tool

We fix the cable in the holders on the body and the rear suspension beam mounting bracket

We put the tube on the rear end of the cable and fix the cable sheath on the end with a screw

Use a rod (you can use a wrench) to press on the tip of the cable, compressing its spring

In this case, the front end of the cable will come out of the sheath and can be inserted into the equalizer.

Further installation of the cable is carried out in the reverse order.

After replacing the cables, we adjust the parking brake.

The parking brake should hold the vehicle on a 23% grade.

The full travel of the parking brake lever should be from 2 to 4 teeth (clicks) of the ratchet device

Self-adjusting hand brake

If you have prepared everything you need to make the adjustment, you can proceed. To begin, make it possible to work under the machine by placing it above the inspection hole. If there is none, use a jack to raise the rear of the car. Next, follow the instructions in which we will tell you how to tighten the handbrake on a Grant to get a result no worse than that of a service station master. So, the process of setting the optimal cable tension is as follows:

To tighten the handbrake cables, you must place the car above the inspection hole

First, climb inside the vehicle to set the parking brake lever to its full operating position - this will allow you to determine what the result of the adjustment should be. If the lever rises by less than two clicks, then measures should be taken to increase the length of the drive. Although most often it is necessary to shorten it, since due to wear of the pads and stretching of the cable, the number of clicks only increases over time. It is necessary to lengthen the drive only after installing new brake pads.
Fully lower the handbrake lever and move under the car to remove the cushions from the brackets of the additional muffler.
Next, using a socket wrench, unscrew the four nuts that hold the protective shield in place.
Now prepare a wooden block to place it between the muffler pipe and the bottom (you will have to pull it back for this) - this way you can remove the protective screen, which will free up space for work.
Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the locknut while holding the adjusting nut with a second wrench.
In order to tighten the handbrake drive, screw in the adjusting nut, and to lengthen it, on the contrary, this nut should be unscrewed. When tightening, it is necessary to check the travel of the handbrake lever.

This is how the Lada Granta's handbrake is adjusted, but the work does not end there. After all, it is necessary to check whether the result meets the current requirements. To do this, you need to lift the car using a lift or hang its rear wheels using a jack. Now, use your hand to turn each wheel and make sure that when the handbrake lever is lowered, the wheels rotate freely. If this is the case and the lever stroke is 2–4 turns, then you have adjusted the handbrake drive on the Lada Grant correctly.

The final stage of the adjustment work consists of installing all the removed parts in the reverse order, after which the parking brake system must be tested under road conditions. To do this, find a suitable section of road with a slope of 23% (or an overpass) and put the car on the handbrake. If the car does not move spontaneously, you can be proud of the result of your work.

And finally, I would like to note that the problem with a non-working hand brake is not always solved by simply tightening the drive. Over time, the cable loses its ability to perform its function due to critical stretching, wear or damage. After all, he has to work in aggressive conditions under the bottom of the vehicle. In such cases, the only solution is to replace the parking brake cable.

How to change the hand brake linkage of a VAZ

So, first, let’s figure out how to replace the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2114 and a VAZ 2115 (the cars are almost the same). We will need:

wrenches;
screwdrivers;
hammer, wooden block;
penetrating lubricant;
wheel supports.

We begin repair work if there is an inspection hole.

First, lower the assembly lever in the cabin.
Next, at the bottom, loosen the adjusting nut, as well as the lock nut. Unscrew and remove these nuts.
Having loosened the fastenings of the rear wheels, as well as placing stops under the front ones, we lift the rear part of the car with a jack. We remove the wheels.
After removing the studs from the brake pads, we knock down the brake drums using a hammer and a wooden block.
Next, having dismantled the brake pad and unscrewed the bolt on it, you can finally disconnect the end of the handbrake rod from it - each rod from each unit.
At the rear of each brake unit, we pull out the cable drive in the shell, then remove the shell.
This releases our treasured part; all that remains is to pull it out of all the fasteners under the body. Then you can install the new one in reverse order.

The handbrake cable on a VAZ 2109 is replaced in the same way. When changing the cable on a VAZ 2110, we also follow the instructions given, but at the same time you will have to unfasten the interfering muffler, or rather, its end part, and then lower it. Otherwise there are no changes. To replace the handbrake cable on a Niva VAZ 2123, we follow the instructions given above, however, before releasing the rods from the wheel brake assemblies, you will have to unscrew the nuts securing the wheel guards.

The same applies to replacing a defective handbrake cable on a Gazelle. There, in the same way, you will have to unscrew two nuts in order to pull the rod removed from the pads out of the wheel guard.

True, on some modifications of the VAZ, the defective part is attached to the underbody using a threaded connection. Then you need to unscrew the nut. By the way, we must first treat all threaded connections with an aerosol-type penetrating lubricant.

What to do with the “manual” assembly of foreign cars

Now let’s discuss the procedure as applied to popular foreign cars. To replace the cable on a Mitsubishi Lancer 10 we will need:

hammer, wooden block;
wrenches, screwdrivers;
wheel chocks;
penetrating aerosol lubricant.

Also read about replacing the timing chain on an Opel Corse and replacing the license plate light bulb on a Nissan Qashqai. The peculiarity of this car is that part of the assembly, unlike the VAZ, runs inside the cabin. Therefore, the actions here are as follows.

We unscrew the armrest fastenings, and then remove the armrest.
We dismantle the rear seat - this is done easily. Then unscrew the handbrake linkage.
Next, loosen the bolts of the rear wheels, install wheel chocks under the front wheels, and lift the rear of the car using a jack.
Remove the rear wheels. While in the inspection hole, unscrew the fastening of the part on the rear beam.
Remove the brake drums using a hammer and a piece of wood.
We unfasten the brake pads, and then disconnect the ends of the treasured part from them.
We pull the defective unit into the cabin and disconnect it from the parking system lever.
We pull the new spare part through and fasten it in the reverse order.

Replacing a broken handbrake cable on a Hyundai Accent is done in much the same way. This car will also have to remove the rear seat.

Interestingly, the German Volkswagen Golf has a similar parking system design. However, to replace the handbrake cable, say, in a Golf 6, you do not need to remove the rear seat. The rods of the wheel mechanisms exit under the bottom through the muffler tunnel. After disconnecting from the equalizer, you just need to pull them down. The handbrake cable of the Volkswagen Passat B4 is replaced in the same way, since the unit here is designed following the example of the Golf.

A necessary tool for tightening the handbrake.

Two keys for 13. It is advisable that one of them be a socket.
Head 8.
A partner, but you can do without him. The truth is it’s more difficult without him.

The principle of adjusting the handbrake

Fully lower the handbrake lever in the cabin.
Place the car on a pit or lift it on a lift. Some car owners manage to adjust the handbrake “from the curb” - but this is inconvenient and dangerous.
Find the resonator from the bottom of the car and remove it from the rubber brackets.
Using a ratchet, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the protection of the handbrake adjustment mechanism (protective screen).
Next, you can either remove the protective screen, but it seems to me that it is easier to move it forward behind the muffler, which will free up space that is enough for free work.
Loosen the first nut with a 13mm wrench.
By tightening the adjusting nut, tighten the handbrake cable that comes out of the passenger compartment.
Ask a partner to check the stroke of the lever handle, or check it yourself.
As soon as the handbrake moves 3-4 clicks, tighten the lock nut.
Before the final stage of work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the brake mechanism. To do this, hang the rear wheels and watch how they rotate with the hand brake off. They also check how the wheels grip when the handbrake is raised.
Next, return the protective screen to its place, screw it onto the seats and put rubber fasteners on the resonator.

adjustment + photo and video

Incorrect operation of the handbrake can cause an accident or some other serious incident.

Introduction

For example, even with the simplest job of replacing a broken tire, you must put the car on the handbrake, otherwise you risk “putting” the car on the bumper as a result of the car “driving” forward. And this is not the worst thing that can happen! You may cause yourself serious physical harm.

Toyota BB was dropped on the asphalt

The same Toyota

Classic fell off the jack

A necessary tool for tightening the handbrake.

Head 8 for ratchet

Set of keys for 13

Partner (preferably the coolest car mechanic)

Two keys for 13. It is advisable that one of them be a socket.
Head 8.
A partner, but you can do without him. The truth is it’s more difficult without him.

The principle of adjusting the handbrake

Fully lower the handbrake lever in the cabin.

Lower the handbrake handle

Remove the muffler from its mounting to the body

Using a ratchet, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the protection of the handbrake adjustment mechanism (protective screen).

Remove and set aside the protective screen

Next, you can either remove the protective screen, but it seems to me that it is easier to move it forward behind the muffler, which will free up space that is enough for free work.

The mechanism looks like this

Loosen the first nut with a 13mm wrench.

By tightening the adjusting nut, tighten the handbrake cable that comes out of the passenger compartment. Ask a partner to check the stroke of the lever handle, or check it yourself. As soon as the handbrake moves 3-4 clicks, tighten the lock nut. Before the final stage of work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the brake mechanism. To do this, hang the rear wheels and watch how they rotate with the hand brake off. They also check how the wheels grip when the handbrake is raised. Next, return the protective screen to its place, screw it onto the seats and put rubber fasteners on the resonator.

Handbrake adjustment video

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

This is the peculiarity of the mechanism, which is why you often have to tighten the handbrake. Plus low-quality spare parts from the beginning, and a design that has not changed since the time of Tsar Pea!

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

It shouldn’t be like this (the brakes don’t grab the rear wheels)

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

You can fully check the correct operation of the handbrake on a hill at 23 degrees. With the handbrake lever fully raised, the car should stand still in a disengaged gear.

Pull up the handbrake

But if you really know how to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Granta standard, this procedure will not take you much time and effort. The only thing that is required for its implementation is a jack or an inspection hole, because access to adjustable components and assemblies occurs from below and you will have to work under the car. To tighten (adjust) the handbrake you will need 3 tools:

two open-end wrenches for 13, one of them is preferably a socket one;
one key head for 8;
a faithful assistant (although in desperate situations you can get by alone).

The process of directly adjusting the manual braking system of a Lada Granta car is carried out in nine main stages:

We lower the handbrake lever inside the car.
We climb under the car, unscrew the rubber cushions (brackets) from the resonator, and remove the muffler from its attachment to the body.
We remove the protective screen of the parking brake adjustment mechanism. To do this, use a socket wrench to unscrew the 4 nuts from the fastening bolts.
We remove the protective screen or move it to the side behind the muffler - in this case, the necessary space for work is also quite enough. In this case, the muffler can be pulled back with something, for example, by pushing a block of wood under it.
We take two 13mm wrenches - the first one is to slightly loosen the locknut, holding the adjusting nut. Then vice versa - hold it, and secondly turn (also loosening) the adjusting nut.
Actually, we adjust the hand brake as follows: tighten the handbrake cable, for which we tighten the adjusting nut (move the key clockwise).
Next, you should check the travel of the handbrake lever - this is why you need a partner, or you will have to do it yourself. The lock nut can be tightened when the handbrake stroke is 2-4 clicks (see above).
Then we test the operation of the parking brake mechanism as a whole. To do this, lift the rear wheels and check how freely they rotate when the handbrake is lowered and how completely they lock when fully raised (in this case they should not rotate at all!).
If the handbrake is working properly, tighten the locknut and replace the protective screen and muffler. The handbrake adjustment is complete!

As the mileage and life of the vehicle increases, the handbrake becomes less and less adjustable. It happens that even after adjustment, the manual braking system does not work properly and does not “hold” the car. This indicates that the wear on the brake pads is too high or the cable stretch is irreversible.

Tools:

Ratchet wrench
Extension
10 mm head
13 mm high head
Open-end wrench 13 mm

Parts and consumables:

Aerosol lubricant type WD-40

Notes:

The parking brake should hold the vehicle on a 23% grade. The full travel of the parking brake lever should be from 2 to 4 teeth (clicks) of the lever ratchet device.

1. To adjust the parking brake, place the vehicle on an inspection ditch or overpass and lower the parking brake lever.

2. Using a 10 mm socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the rear heat shield of the additional muffler, having previously treated them with WD-40 lubricant.

3. Remove the rubber cushion from the front suspension bracket of the additional muffler.

4. Slide the heat shield forward to expose the parking brake adjustment assembly.

5. Holding the adjusting nut of the cable end with a 13 mm wrench, use a socket of the same size to unscrew the lock nut.

6. Turn the adjusting nut clockwise to tighten the cables.

Note:

It is convenient to adjust the tension of the cables with a high head with a ratchet and an extension. In this case, do not unscrew the lock nut completely, but, aligning its edges with the edges of the adjusting nut, put on a 13 mm high socket and rotate both nuts at once.

7. Use the locknut to secure the adjusting nut. When the lever is lowered, the suspended rear wheels should rotate freely.

The article is missing:

Photos of parts and consumables

Adjusting the handbrake lever on the Lada Grant is necessary if its stroke is more than 6 clicks. The optimal stroke is 2-4 clicks, but during operation it is allowed to increase its stroke to 8 clicks.

An increase in the travel of the parking brake lever occurs for several reasons, the main ones being stretching of the handbrake cable and wear of the brake pads.

Adjusting the parking brake (handbrake).LADA Granta – Fun – watch video

4 years ago

In the video I will show you how to change the front pads, brake discs and calipers yourself.

2 weeks ago

The dealer sold the damaged car as if it were new Prices for the Lada Kalina Cross on Avto.ru – https://goo.gl/BRZ31U – My website – https://avtokriminalist.ru/ – Offer a car for review – The Lada Kalina car was purchased a year ago from an official dealer.

A year later, the owner decided to sell the car and found out that under the guise of a new car, a car dealership had sold him a damaged and repaired car. Comprehensive vehicle inspection and diagnostics. Checking the body, engine and mileage.

Autocriminalist Maxim Shelkov – Car diagnostics before purchase – Checking the car with a visit to the car – Selection of a car to order – Examination of license plates: VIN, body, frame, engine – Checking car documents

4 weeks ago

All details about the car for subscribers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMgCGHoCqLM Win a car with tuning - https://l.tinkoff.ru/academegcar Management competition “Leaders of Russia”: https://leaders of Russia .rf Many thanks to Boryan and Fedya from LOW CARS MEET, an insider from this filming will soon be released on their channel: https://www.youtube.

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9 months ago

How to make the car interior quieter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbmNTwACDE8 Oil additive tests https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVCxsP71BII My 2nd channel https://www.youtube. com/channel/UC6rJlbPrc07AnG4BYlciPoA Excellent DVR https://ali.pub/204pb1 Continuation of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu1YUAAxRsY

2 years ago

Adjusting the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2114-2115 Since the rear drums and pads tend to wear out, over time the effectiveness of the handbrake decreases and you have to tighten it more and more.

Ultimately, even with the lever at maximum tension, the rear wheels do not lock to the required moment, and you need to resort to adjusting the mechanism. To perform this work on a VAZ 2114-2115 you will need only two 13mm wrenches, one can be a regular one, and the second is convenient to use a ratchet, since there is quite a bit of space for turning the nut.

So, it is most convenient to perform this work in a pit, or with the rear of the car strongly raised with a jack. The first step is to find the adjustment mechanism itself. It is located under the bottom of the car closer to its rear: Now, while holding one nut with a wrench, the second must be tightened until the handbrake efficiency becomes normal.

Some owners check the operation while driving by lifting the lever and making sure that the wheels are completely locked.

3 years ago

Video for those who are planning to buy a Grant with low (or high) mileage and what it looks like after 2 years of operation and 33,000 km. Due to numerous requests and questions about the learnable flip key and temperature indicator - I took it here https://rd-lab.shop

1 month ago

AUTOLIFE HACKS. tips for motorists Download

Causes of malfunction and their elimination

As a rule, the reasons why the handbrake does not work are quite simple and do not require long or expensive repairs:

torn cable. One of the common causes is a broken cable on the handbrake or under the car. The problem is solved by simply replacing the cable;
jammed cable. Due to damage to the sheath in which the cable moves, it may become jammed, preventing you from using the handbrake. And the cable itself consists of many steel strands, which, if damaged, can also prevent proper operation. The solution is to replace the cable;
dirty brakes. If dust, dirt, ice or reagents that are sprinkled on roads in winter get on the pads, this can cause the brakes to not work properly. The solution is to press the brake pedal several times smoothly while the car is moving. Thanks to friction, the pads will be cleaned;
incorrect adjustment. It may happen that the cable system is not adjusted properly, the bolt is not tightened correctly, or the length of the cables is incorrectly selected. The solution is to adjust the system and correct tension of the cables;
pad wear. The pads are subject to abrasion during operation. Every time you apply the brakes, the pads gradually become unusable. The solution is to replace the pads;
oil in the pads. Oil or brake fluid leaks can cause the car to not hold up with the handbrake. The most important thing in this case is to identify the cause of the leak - it could be the rear axle seal or the brake cylinder. The solution is to eliminate the leak and clean the pads. If the pads are very oily, replace them.

New Lada: Stalls when the revs are reduced, when starting off when cold.

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

In foreign cars (not all of course), the rear brake mechanism (drum or disc) has self-tensioning springs, which are tightened depending on the wear of the pads.

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

How to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Granta, when to tighten it

Tightening the handbrake cable is necessary in cases where the parking brake lever does not release the brake pads in the upper position. According to science, the pads should block the wheels at 4-6 clicks and hold the car on a slope of 20-25 degrees. Otherwise, we won’t even be able to pass the technical inspection.

Parking brake design

To tighten the handbrake cable, we need to unscrew and move to the side the protective cover of the muffler resonator. It is attached to four studs welded into the body. The difficulty is that when unscrewing these four nuts with a 10mm socket, there is a danger that the studs will break, since the threads often sour and rust.

In this case, adjusting the handbrake may result in drilling the bottom and welding new 6 mm bolts up to 25 mm long. As a last resort, they can simply be inserted into the hole in the bottom by inserting a powerful washer and placing a grommet under the head of the bolt. In a word, we have already prepared ourselves mentally, all that remains is to consider the process itself.

And yet, it is very important to treat these same casing studs in advance with a penetrating lubricant, for example, WD-40. True, this is also connected with traveling under a car

We adjust the handbrake on Grant with our own hands, video

If we are ready for difficulties, then for adjustment we will need a standard set of tools, grease for processing threads and lubricating the compensator, as well as an inspection hole or overpass. If everything is ready, let's go.

Release the handbrake completely and go under the car.
We find the studs with nuts we need and try to unscrew them with a 10mm socket.
Remove the rubber muffler hanger from the bracket and move the heat shield as far forward as possible.
We gained access to a 13 mm nut for adjusting the tension of the handbrake cable.
Use an open-end wrench to hold the locknut, and with another wrench we tighten it several turns, controlling the tension of the cable.
We tighten the cables until they are lightly tensioned, and then check the tightening force. The suspended rear wheel should rotate freely when the handbrake lever is lowered.

After this, we check the parking brake in accordance with the regulatory data. Below we have attached a video of the process of extreme adjustment of the handbrake on Grant. Good luck to everyone and strong brakes!

LADA GRANTA. TIGHTEN THE HANDBRAKE CABLE

Crib

Instead of a conclusion, let's summarize :

Carry out work on a lift, pit or overpass;
Tools: open-end wrench 13, ratchet with heads 10 and 13 (preferably long);
It is not necessary to remove the heat shield - just move it forward as the vehicle moves;
The ideal stroke is 3-4 clicks of the handle until the rear wheels come to a complete stop.

If you've already started adjusting the brakes, maybe change the rear pads too? Detailed instructions with description and photos are here.

Have something to add to the article, share your opinion or recommend? Write in the comments!

Parking brake device

Before replacing the handbrake cable or tightening it, you need to understand the design of the mechanism. It is designed quite simply and consists of the following main parts:

Lever with spring-loaded button and latch. Located in the cabin on the right hand of the driver.
A metal rod with a pin at the end and a rocker arm for installing the cable is located under the bottom of the car and attached to the lever. This is the “handbrake” tensioning device.
The ends of the cable (or two cables), installed on the rocker arm, are attached to the brake levers of the rear wheels - disc or drum.

The parking brake works like this: when the driver lifts the lever in the passenger compartment, the rocker moves forward and acts on the pads through a cable drive. In drum mechanisms, the brake pads move apart, and in disc mechanisms, they converge. The “handbrake” holds only the rear wheels and functions independently of the main brake system, which is activated when the pedal is pressed.

The handle is fixed in several positions thanks to the latch. To unlock it and lower it to its original position, a special button is installed at the end of the handle. If the pads “grab” the wheels on the second click, and after the fourth click they hold the car securely, then the drive is considered to be working well.

Checking the operation of the hand brake

There are two ways to find out if the parking brake system on the Lada Granta is in order. They work separately: if at least one type of test shows something wrong, the handbrake needs adjustment. So:

Stop the car on an uphill or downhill slope of about 23-25 degrees, then put the handbrake in the raised position and turn off all gears. The car must stand still and not roll down. If this happens, the handbrake is working properly and you are in no danger. Otherwise, the handbrake on your car needs adjustment.
The travel of the hand braking system lever is checked. If the ratchet mechanism clicks 2-4 times before it is completely moved to the parking position, there is no need to worry, the handbrake is working properly.

There are only two reasons why the handbrake on a Lada Granta may malfunction and fail:

brake pad wear;
stretching the cable.

This is not least due to the fact that the manual braking system on a budget liftback from the giant of the Russian automotive industry is designed quite simply and consists of only three components:

the handbrake control lever itself, equipped with a rod and a pair of nuts - one lock nut and one adjusting nut;
cable equalizer and spacers with a brake pad drive lever;
the right and left cables of the pad drive mechanism on both rear wheels - on the right and left, respectively.

Removing elements of the parking brake system

We replace the parking brake cables when they are broken, pulled out, or stuck inside the sheaths, when adjusting the parking brake fails to keep the car stationary on a slope - up to 23% inclusive. We remove the parking brake lever to replace it or to replace the lever rod. The cables should be replaced simultaneously - left and right. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. We show the replacement of the left cable. The right cable is removed in the same way, but it is not necessary to remove the fuel tank heat shield. We unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”).

Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod.

We take out the front ends of the cables from the equalizer and remove it.

Remove the end of the left cable sheath from the bracket. Disconnect the rear end of the left cable from the parking brake drive lever (see “Replacing the rear wheel brake pads”).

We remove the cable tip from the hole in the brake shield.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut... ...and remove the bracket securing the cable sheath to the rear suspension beam.

We remove the cable sheath from the holder on the rear suspension beam mounting bracket.

Using a screwdriver, bend the cable mounting bracket on the body... ...and remove the cable from the bracket. Remove the heat shield of the fuel tank (see “Removing the fuel tank”).

Remove the cable from the holder on the body.

We remove the left parking brake cable from behind the protective screen of the fuel lines. We install the cables in the following order. We mount one of the cables in the reverse order and insert its front end into the cable equalizer.

We insert the parking brake lever rod into the hole in the equalizer and tighten the adjusting nut several turns. To install another cable, we recommend making a device from a metal tube about 300 mm long and a hole with a diameter of 15–16 mm. At one end of the tube we drill a hole and cut a thread in it for a screw (M4–M6).

Device for installing cable. We secure the cable in the holders on the body and the rear suspension beam mounting bracket.

We put the tube on the rear end of the cable and fix the cable sheath on the end with a screw.

Using a rod (you can use a wrench from a set of socket heads) we press on the tip of the cable, compressing its spring. In this case, the front end of the cable will come out of the sheath and can be inserted into the equalizer. We carry out further installation of the cable in the reverse order. After replacing the cables, we adjust the parking brake. To remove the parking brake lever, unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”). Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod (see above). Inside the car...

... use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws...

...and remove the parking brake lever trim.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the parking brake warning switch.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screw...

...and remove the switch.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the parking brake lever bracket to the floor tunnel.

Remove the parking brake warning switch bracket.

Remove the parking brake lever with bracket and rod assembly, pulling the rod through the rubber sealing boot.

Use a screwdriver to pry up the fixing bracket of the thrust axis... ...and remove it.

Remove the axle and rod from the parking brake lever. Install the parking brake lever in reverse order. Adjusting the parking brake (see “Adjusting the parking brake”)

Design and location of the hand brake cable for the LADA Granta

The purpose of the LADA Granta handbrake cable is to transmit force from the lever in the cabin to the rear brake pads. It is enclosed in a multi-layer protective shell and has tips for attaching to the handbrake lever and the rear wheel brake drive. The adjusting nut on the cable allows you to adjust the length of the drive, and the return spring returns the system to its original state after lowering the drive lever. The handbrake cable is located under the bottom of the car and is partially covered by the muffler thermal shield.

Causes and signs of failure

The main reason why you have to change the handbrake cable of the LADA Granta is mechanical wear. The constant forces to which the cable is subjected eventually lead to its deformation (stretching) or rupture. The cause of cable breakage can also be wheel bolts of non-standard length, which catch and fray the steel threads of the cable. Signs that the parking brake cable needs to be replaced:

the cable stretches or breaks, as a result the handbrake lever rises all the way without effort and “does not hold” the car;
the cable jams in the braid, the pads do not release the brakes, the brake drum heats up when moving.

When a cable jams in the braid, you can try to lubricate it and, if the cause is not frayed threads, the problem may disappear. In all other cases, it is necessary to replace the Grant hand brake cable.

Advice: do not try to “save” the handbrake, using it as little as possible. If the cable moves infrequently in the sheath, it will eventually jam and break.

What is needed to replace the handbrake cable of the LADA Granta

To change the handbrake cable, you need access to the bottom of the car. Therefore, work must be carried out on a lift or inspection pit. In the latter case, you will additionally need a jack. In addition, you need the following tools and materials:

wheel wrench;
keys for 10, 12, 13;
2 bolts M8x60 mm;
pliers;
flat screwdriver;
WD-40;
metal brush;
handbrake cable for LADA Granta.

When to tighten and when to change?

During operation of the machine, the steel cable gradually stretches and begins to sag. Then part of the lever stroke is used to remove this slack (the first 2-3 clicks), and only then the force is transferred to the brake pads of the rear wheels. As a result, they are weakly pressed against the surface of the discs or drums and the car does not brake reliably.

The first sign of a malfunction is that the handbrake stops working on the first two clicks of the handle and is raised by hand without any effort. In this case, it is definitely necessary to tighten the hand brake, or rather the cable drive.

But the operation of the mechanism also depends on other factors:

on the degree of wear of the brake pads;
from the depth of excavation on the surface of the steel disk or drum.

Abrasion of the linings does not have much effect on the operation of the main system, since the stroke of the hydraulic pistons is quite large. But the effect of the mechanical “handbrake” gradually weakens. To return it to working condition, it is necessary to compensate for the wear of the elements by tensioning the drive. If the cable itself is in satisfactory condition, the extension of the tension pin will be enough to ensure the operation of the parking brake at any degree of wear on the linings.

The cable is replaced in the following situations:

The element has stretched to such an extent that at maximum tension the pads do not grip the discs and the car rolls away on any slope.
Due to the constant ingress of water under the cable casing, it rusted and became tightly jammed. This happens when a motorist rarely uses the handbrake.

Cable jamming also occurs in winter, when water trapped under the casing freezes inside. In this situation, do not rush to change it; first warm up the car in the garage, and then drive out the moisture using WD-40 aerosol lubricant.

Lada Granta: repair, operation, tuning and maintenance

Perhaps checking the brakes of any car is the key to your safety

In my opinion, the car’s brakes need to be prevented and checked at least once every two weeks, this will make your driving comfortable and safe, which is the most important thing, but now we will talk about the brakes of the Lada Granta. So, let's get started!. Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel

Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins

Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel. Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins.

Next, we loosen the handbrake cable and remove the cotter pin that holds the block, after all, pull out the lever, then remove both springs, the upper one and definitely the lower one, and then remove the blocks.

First the pads, then the upper tension spring and install the lower tension spring, and of course, don’t forget to put the handbrake cable on the lever! Install the brake drum, it is advisable to clean it and lubricate it with special lubricant. It's called graphite.

After cleaning, we put it in place, then the most basic procedure is bleeding the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes.

For this you will need a partner. One person will sit in the car and press the brake 5-6 times until it hits the floor. And the second one needs to sit near the brake disc.

When you unscrew, the second one should begin to press the brake pedal; when the pedal rises, the screw will need to be tightened. And so 5-6 times.

As a result, air will escape. This will then lead to the release of brake fluid.

Please note that when the liquid pours, it should be free of bubbles. When the procedure is completed, put the wheel in place. Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

All we can say is that we are almost done with the brakes. Next we tighten the handbrake. Use a special wrench to tighten the handbrake.

Keys are sold in all auto parts stores, so you should not have any difficulties buying a key.

That's all, I wish you good luck and stop breaking your brakes!

‹ Possible malfunctions Up Replacing brake fluid ›

How much does it cost to tighten the handbrake and can you do it yourself?

Actually the question is rhetorical, as you understand in different regions, the cost can range from 200 to 1000 rubles. For example, in the capital, the price is often 500 – 1000, but in the regions you can raise it for 250 rubles.

And to be honest, the work itself only takes a few minutes, the main thing is to find a hole or a lift, a key of 10 and off you go. You need to tighten the middle bolt, the one that is in the middle, it is the handbrake, tighten the nut and thereby tighten the cables.

Of course, if they are rusty or torn, then everything is much more complicated; it is better to trust the master, because replacing the cables from the rear drums is not at all an easy task.

That's all, read our AUTOBLOG, I think it clarified the situation.

(7 votes, average: 4.57 out of 5)

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Procedure

As practice shows, repairing the parking brake comes down to replacing the handbrake cable, but in most cases, the operation of the unit can be restored with the help of a tensioner. If you follow clear instructions, then no problems with adjustment should arise.

Tools

To adjust the handbrake, you need to prepare the following tools:

flat screwdriver;
a set of keys, including a cylinder key;
wrench with nozzle 18;
wheel chock or other wheel supports;
jack;
work gloves.

Minimum required set of tools

To adjust the cable, it is advisable to use a telescopic jack to raise the car to a greater height. But if this is not the case, then a different type of jack will do, for example, a rack and pinion jack. After all the tools are prepared, you can begin to work.

Instructions

There are several requirements that must be met before making adjustments. First of all, the brake system must be fully operational and free of air. The driver must also make sure that all holders, cables and the lever itself are in good condition. Now you can get started. Below are step-by-step instructions that allow you to make adjustments in the shortest possible period of time.

Important points

It is best to use two people to disconnect the tip from the brake pads. One person should carefully press the brake rocker with a large screwdriver (or a thin pry bar), the second at this moment will be able to freely loosen the lock nut, after which the cable can be pulled out of the holder without risking injury to your hands.
As soon as the cable is removed, its attachment points should be thoroughly cleaned of rust and dirt. The best way to do this is with a wire brush. Those places in the brake shield where the cable passes must be wiped with solvent.
If too much rust has accumulated in the through passages of the cable, you should use concentrated acetic acid, as it corrodes rust well. You only need to work with it wearing gloves to avoid chemical burns.
Before installing the brake drum, be sure to check the condition of the pads. If the spacers on the pads are very worn (and most likely this will be the case), they need to be replaced with new ones. A set of such strips can be purchased at any auto store.

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

In foreign cars (not all of course), the rear brake mechanism (drum or disc) has self-tensioning springs, which are tightened depending on the wear of the pads.

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

It shouldn’t be like this (the brakes don’t grab the rear wheels)

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

I am changing the handbrake cable on Kalina. Adjusting the parking brake Kalina How to tighten the handbrake on Kalina with your own hands. Just. Available.

General questions about the parking brake on Grant

Let's look at a few basic questions about VAZ 2190 brakes.

Operating principle of the Granta handbrake

When raising the handbrake lever in the passenger compartment:

the drive brake cable is tensioned;
through the equalizer he pulls the cables going to the rear brake pads;
The pads are pressed against the brake drums through expansion bars, stopping the wheel from moving;
When the tension is loosened (removed from the handbrake), the tension of the cables also weakens, and the wheels move freely.

Lever 1 pulls cables 3 through cable 2. Those, through levers 4 and strips 5, push the brake pads apart.

Why is it necessary to tighten the parking brake?

If the cable tension is loosened, there is a danger of the vehicle rolling away.

The Granta mechanical handbrake has a conventional device without self-adjustment. The same instructions apply to Lada Kalina, Priora.

This means that as the rear pads wear out, the original parking brake setting will lose effectiveness.

Pull up the handbrake

two open-end wrenches for 13, one of them is preferably a socket one;
one key head for 8;
a faithful assistant (although in desperate situations you can get by alone).

Adjusting the Grant's handbrake

Adjusting the parking brake of a VAZ 2190 is no more difficult than on a classic or “chisels”. Let's look at the step-by-step principle, starting with inventory.

Necessary tool for tightening the handbrake

What you will need for work:

Inspection pit, overpass, lift;
Keys: open-end and ratchet with long head 13;
Socket wrench or ratchet with a 10mm head;
Possibly WD-40.

It is better to do all the work with a partner, who will check how far the lever rises from the inside of the car. Otherwise, after each tightening of the cables, you will have to climb into the cabin yourself.

The lift will make it much easier to adjust the parking brake.

Parking brake adjustment principle

So, the car is on a pit/lift, the tool is in your hands - the handbrake is loose. What to do?

Step 1: find a resonator under the bottom. We remove its mount, located closer to the front of the car. Then, using a socket wrench or a ratchet with a 10mm socket, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the heat shield.

If the bolts are rusty, you can pour WD-40 on them and try to unscrew them. If the studs still don’t work and break, you need to be prepared to replace them. Otherwise, the screen cannot be put back.

This way we get the opportunity to move the screen forward without removing it. Underneath there is access to the parking brake adjustment mechanism.

Step 2: slide the screen forward to access cable adjustment.

Remove the cushion mount 1, unscrew the bolts 2. Move the screen 3.

Step 3: holding the adjusting nut (open-end wrench size 13), loosen the lock nut (head size 13).

Step 4: Rotate the adjusting nut clockwise to tighten the cables. Periodically check from the inside how the handbrake is holding.

We do not remove the locknut! Just weaken it.

As soon as the parking brake lever reaches 3-4 clicks, tighten the locknut.

1-lock nut. 2-adjusting nut. For convenience, you can loosen the locknut and rotate them both clockwise with a long head of 13.

Step 5: return the heat shield to its place, fix the fastening screws and the rubber suspension of the resonator.

Checking work:

the rear axle is suspended, the parking brake is removed - the rear wheels rotate freely;
the rear axle is suspended, the brake lever is raised (to maximum tension - 3-4 clicks) - the rear wheels do not rotate even with force.