Rear axle gear oil seal Niva Chevrolet

Most Chevrolet Niva owners, due to the simplicity of the design, can independently repair their car. This is especially true for a large number of consumables, including those in the chassis of the car. One of the parts that requires periodic replacement is the Chevrolet Niva front axle oil seal. The need for repairs arises when an oil leak occurs from the axle housing and a knocking noise occurs. The main cause of grease leakage is due to a clogged breather.

It is necessary to monitor at what stage the oil leak occurs. If, after intensive movement, while the gearbox is still hot, and after it cools down, it stops, then it is necessary to clean the breather. It may be clogged with dirt, which prevents the heated air from escaping outside. Therefore, it is possible to squeeze out fluid from the gearbox, even if the gaskets are in good condition.

If the breather is working properly, but oil still comes out, then most likely you will need to replace the cover gaskets and o-rings. Typically, the design of the front axle provides for the presence of three rings: an oil seal located on the axis of the drive gear, axle bearings and oil seals for the right and left drive - the axle shaft hinge.

It is important to remember that the left and right oil seals are designed for different directions of rotation, so when purchasing, you should carefully check the package. The direction can be determined by the marked arrow. If installed incorrectly, there may be increased oil leakage outward due to the location of the oil scraper notches.

When and how do you need to change the seals of the VAZ 2123 transfer case?

Reference!
Parts must be replaced if transmission oil leaks occur at the interface between the drive shafts and the transmission housing. If this is not done, the transmission will leak. Without lubrication, transfer case parts will quickly fail.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the oil seal of the Niva Chevrolet

To work, you need to have free access to the bottom of the car. Therefore, replacement of RK oil seals will be carried out on an inspection ditch, overpass or lift.

You will need the following tool:

hexagon 12;
open-end or socket wrench 24;
waste container;
flat screwdriver;
hammer;
mandrel;
syringe for filling transmission oil;
new self-locking nuts for fastening the flanges.

The algorithm for replacing the Niva Chevrolet transfer case oil seal is as follows:

drain the oil from the transfer case into the prepared container;
unscrew the bolts securing the cardan, the drive shaft oil seal of which is to be replaced;
engage the gear, lock the differential and put the car on the handbrake;
Unscrew the nut securing the propeller shaft drive flange.
remove the washer;
pull the flange off the shaft;
use a screwdriver to remove the old oil seal;
clean the seat and apply sealant;
lubricate the rubber seal of the new oil seal with oil;
using a mandrel and a hammer, press the part into place;
install the flange and washer, tighten them with a self-locking nut;
secure the cardan.

Important! The self-locking design does not allow for reuse of parts. Therefore, the flange nuts must be replaced with new ones.

After completing the work, it is necessary to fill the transfer case with fresh transmission oil.

Technical features

The oil seal is located in front of the bridge. Its function is to prevent oil leaks at the junction of the cardan and the axle. Since this part of the car bears a large number of loads, it turns out that this element fails most often. The constant exposure of this part to reagents in winter also has a negative effect.

But, before starting replacement work, you should determine whether it is needed. The diagnosis here is quite simple. First, check the oil level in the gearbox; if it is not enough, add it to the maximum. Then drive the car into a pit or overpass and hang the rear wheels.

Next we proceed to diagnosis

We start the engine and engage 4th gear;
We keep the speed sufficient to maintain the speedometer speed around 100 km/h;
We wait about 10-15 minutes;

Replacing the Chevrolet Niva front axle oil seal.

First you need to remove one or two drives, depending on where replacement is needed.
After this you need to remove the locking ring
Using a hammer, knock out the bearing. If you have problems with removal, you can use WD-40 lubricant
The cover is removed, the old oil seal is knocked out using a pipe.
The installation site is lubricated and a new O-ring is installed.
the unit is reassembled.

Replacing the rear axle gearbox seal of a VAZ 2107
Hello! Most Chevy owners service the unpretentious units of this popular car themselves. During intensive use, you often have to change consumables, especially in the chassis. I will tell you about this type of service, such as replacing the front axle oil seal of a NIVA Chevrolet. The replacement operation is carried out when oil leaks from the axle housing. A clogged breather causes lubricant to squeeze out.

If grease drips immediately after stopping (while the gearbox is hot), and then the flow stops, the breather must be cleaned. When it is clogged with dirt, the heated air is not released outside during movement. Under pressure, the working fluid of the gearbox will be squeezed out even through serviceable gaskets and seals.

If the breather is in order, but oil still leaks, you will have to replace damaged cover gaskets or O-rings. There are three of them in the front axle, and they are different:

The oil seal that seals the drive gear axis is located at the rear of the axle, at the location where the front propeller shaft is attached. Oil seals for the right and left drive (inner axle joint).

ATTENTION! The left and right oil seals are not the same; they have a direction of rotation. This must be taken into account when purchasing

The direction of rotation of the wheel when moving forward is indicated by the arrow. If the oil is installed incorrectly, the removable notches will drive the lubricant out.

To understand the device, here is the layout of the front axle:

The oil seal is replaced without removing the front axle. If the work is carried out independently, and it is not possible to use a lift, the car is placed on an inspection hole or overpass. We tighten the hand brake and install supports under the rear wheels. Gearbox and transfer case levers in the “Neutral” position. The front part is lifted with a jack and fixed on stops.

We clean the bridge from dirt and leaks of technical fluids. Unscrew the crankcase drain plug and drain the oil from the gearbox. Screw the plug into place.

Socket wrenches 13, 17 and 24 Hexagon 12 Mounting blade (mount) Wooden block; Hammer; Flat screwdriver; Universal puller, two or three legs; Retaining ring remover; A piece of pipe according to the diameter of the seals; Flushing fluid (kerosene, Carbcleaner, Vince, Laurel); Brush with stiff bristles; Lint-free rags.

We disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox by unscrewing the bolts securing it to the flange.
We separate the internal CV joint housings from the drive gears.
Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment at which the drive gear begins to rotate freely. To do this, turn the flange mounting nut until the gear begins to rotate. We fix the magnitude of the moment.
We tighten the bolts into two adjacent flange holes (for fixation).
We insert a mounting spade between the bolts, hold the flange from turning and unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the washer and flange from the spline joint. If it is impossible to remove it by hand, use a universal puller.

7. Remove the oil seal using a flat-head screwdriver. 8. Rinse and thoroughly wipe the replacement area. 9. Replacement of the front axle drive gear oil seal is carried out only with original Chevrolet spare parts. To facilitate pressing, any grease (litol, grease) is applied to the sealing ring. 10. Press in the ring using a pipe of suitable diameter. 11. Place the flange on the spline connection and put on the washer. 12. Tighten the nut to the torque determined when unscrewing. 13. Fasten the cardan shaft.

We remove both drives (or the one that requires replacement)
Remove the retaining ring and spring washer;
Using a hammer, carefully knock down the bearing. If removal is difficult, treat with a penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40.
Remove the bearing cap with the old seal.
Using a pipe, knock the oil seal out of the cover;
Lubricate the new spare part with any grease and press the o-ring into the cover.

7. We assemble the unit. We fill the gearbox with oil in accordance with the maintenance instructions, do a test drive, and check for oil leaks.

Advice on how to remove drives without dismantling the Niva front gearbox

To dismantle the drives, it is necessary to unscrew the fastenings of the gearbox (in this case, some kind of stop is placed under it).
Then the steering knuckles are released. To do this, simply unscrew the shock absorber mount from the lower arm and the lower ball joint.
To relieve the load, jack up the lower suspension arm.
Unscrew the hub nut and remove the centering ring. The nut is too tight, so we use a wrench extension (for example, a metal pipe).
We move the steering knuckle to the side. The drive can then move freely.
To ensure free movement of the drive during removal, the gearbox must be moved back slightly.
We remove the drive, being careful not to damage the anthers. If the boot is torn, it must be replaced.
The procedure for removing the right and left CV joint drives is similar.

Repair of the front axle on a VAZ 2121 Niva

Removing the axle shaft and replacing the oil seal

We hang and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see Replacing the rear brake pads).

Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts on the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.

Use a slotted screwdriver to bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts...

...and remove the bolts.

We fix the wheel with the reverse side on the axle shaft by tightening three nuts several turns.

Holding the wheel, we move it with a jerk...

...and remove the axle shaft assembly with the bearing mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.

We take out the rubber sealing ring of the beam flange.

We insert two bolts into the holes of the brake shield and the rear axle beam so that the shield does not hang on the brake pipe.

We pry off the oil seal using sliding pliers...

Using a tool head of a suitable size with an extension (or a piece of pipe), we press in a new oil seal.

If the axle shaft is deformed, its splines are worn out, or the bearing is worn out, we replace the axle shaft with a new one complete with bearing and locking ring (it is not recommended to replace the bearing or locking ring yourself). Install the axle shaft in reverse order. Check the oil level in the rear axle and add if necessary.

How to change?

Replacing the axle bearing of a Niva Chevrolet

If the mechanism is seriously damaged, it makes sense to replace it with a new one. To do this you will need a new gearbox and a small set of tools:

wheel wrench;
jack (if the work is done in an inspection hole);
chisel:
hammer;
hex wrench 12;
ring or open-end wrenches for 13, 17 and 27;
syringe for filling transmission oil;
container for processing.

Important: replacement or repair of the gearbox cannot be performed without a lift, inspection ditch or overpass

Operating procedure

Place a waste container under the gearbox.
Unscrew the drain plug, then the filler plug.
Wait until the entire transmission flows out of the gearbox.
Unscrew and remove the front wheels.
Unscrew the cardan shaft from the flange on the shank.
Undocking and hanging the cardan.
Unscrew the fastening of the right cover from the suspension cross member.
Unscrew the fastening nuts and disconnect the shock absorbers from the front control arms.
Unscrew the threaded connections holding the wheel drive bearing caps.
Unscrew the nuts securing the brackets holding the gearbox.
Unscrew the nut securing the left gearbox cover to the cross member.
Remove the hub cap and unscrew the right wheel hub nut.
Remove the centering sleeve.
Compress the suspension spring and unscrew the ball joints.
Move the steering knuckle to the side.
Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Pull the gearbox back.
Remove the right wheel drive.
Remove the gearbox from the machine

To install the new unit in place, you must perform the operations in reverse order.

Important: after installing the gearbox, do not forget to fill it with transmission oil. Otherwise, you will soon have to change it again with another one

Cuffs balakovorezinotekhnika (Russia)

crankshaft cuff BRT (Russia)
Cuffs Balakovorezinotekhnika (BRT). This is our company, as the name suggests. The nice thing is that people do not stand still, but move forward. Once upon a time they made cuffs from rubber, in metal cases, without elastic, and it was a sad, even heartbreaking sight. Now the crankshaft cuffs are made of fluorine rubber, a design with an additional boot and a hydrodynamic notch.

Purpose of the Niva rear gearbox oil seal

The rear axle gearbox oil seal (REA) is a lip seal located in the mechanism housing on the installation side of the bevel gear bearings. The main function of the oil seal is to ensure the tightness of the gearbox, eliminating the leakage of lubricant located in the rear axle housing.

Causes of wear

The lip seal of any vehicle component wears out over time, losing its properties. One reason is physical wear and tear. But the oil seal can also be damaged by the aggressive influence of oil on it, for example, when using low-quality lubricant. In addition, the oil seal itself may be initially defective.

Signs of wear

The main sign of a worn VAZ 2121 shank oil seal is the presence of oil leaks on the rear axle in the area where the REM flange is located. To identify a faulty element, it is enough to drive the car into an inspection hole or overpass, or simply crawl under the car. If the cuff is worn heavily, then after a long period of parking an oil puddle will form under the rear axle. If you neglect to timely replace the rear gear oil seal, this will lead to increased wear of the internal elements of the mechanism due to lack of lubrication and their subsequent failure.

Replacing the cuff

If the lip seal has become unusable, it only needs to be replaced, since the element is non-repairable (rubber ages over time and cannot be restored). To replace the oil seal, you need to know the size of the element:

outer diameter 68 mm;
internal diameter 35.8 mm;
height 12 mm.

To carry out repairs, you will need to prepare the following list of tools:

key to 13;
24mm head and knob;
hexagon 12;
powerful slotted screwdriver;
hammer;
dynamometer and torque wrench;
container for draining oil.

The process of replacing the shank oil seal is carried out with the rear axle hanging and is carried out as follows:

Unscrew the rear axle housing plug and drain the lubricant into a prepared container.
We unscrew the fastening bolts of the rear cardan to the RZM flange, move the shaft to the side and secure it with wire to the longitudinal link of the bridge.
Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment of resistance to gear rotation by turning the flange nut clockwise.
To hold the flange, insert the cardan bolts into the holes and screw the nuts onto them.
We place a mounting spatula or screwdriver between the bolts and unscrew the nut with a socket and wrench.
Remove the nut and washer from the shank.
We dismantle the flange itself by hitting it with a hammer through a wooden adapter.
To remove the oil seal, hook it with a screwdriver and remove it.
We apply Litol-24 to the working edge of the new cuff, after which we mount the part into the crankcase using a suitable attachment.
We put the flange and washer in place and tighten the nut with a torque wrench with a torque of 117–255 N*m (12–26 kgf*m), using a dynamometer to control the moment of resistance of the bearings to turning the drive gear. If during the initial measurement of the moment of resistance the value was at least 6 kgf*cm, then when re-tightening it is necessary to increase it by 1-2 kgf*cm. If initially the value was 6 kgf*cm, then we achieve a torque of 6-9 kgf*cm. At the same time, the tightening torque should not exceed 12-26 kgf*m. If, while tightening the nut, the moment of resistance exceeds 9 kgf*cm, the spacer sleeve on the bevel gear will need to be replaced.
After the adjustment work, we install all the elements in the reverse order.

Video: replacing the shank seal of a classic Niva

Replacing the RZM oil seal on a VAZ 2121, when the corresponding signs appear, is, although not a complicated procedure, but necessary. Even a novice car enthusiast can perform the repair by reading the step-by-step instructions and preparing the necessary tools.

Important nuances

The dynamometer readings were mentioned above, and this is no coincidence. Tightening the flange is a very responsible process, and it can only be done using a torque wrench. This allows you to avoid excessive squeezing of the oil seal, which leads to a violation of the tightness of the entire gearbox. This is done like this: if at the first measurement the force on the dynamometer was 2.8 - 3 kg, then the force on the torque wrench when tightening should not exceed 6.3 kg. If the dynamometer showed 4.3 kg, then when tightening the key there should be no more than 9 kg, etc. If the dynamometer showed 2.7 kg, and the key when tightened shows 9 kg or more, it means that the gearbox adjusting sleeve is completely worn out and needs for urgent replacement.

After removal, the flange should be carefully inspected for severe abrasions and cracks. If there are any, the flange must be replaced. If this is not done, the new oil seal will very quickly become unusable.

Before driving the oil seal with a tube, it is recommended to lubricate it with lithol. This makes it much easier to fit the new oil seal into its original place. When striking a pipe with a hammer, there is no need to be too zealous: with a strong blow, the pipe easily cuts the seal.

What will you need?

Before starting work, be sure to prepare all the tools. This will minimize the time spent on repairs; also, using a specialized tool will simplify the process itself; you probably won’t break anything.

Some of the tools will be useful

Head collar;
A 13 box spanner is generally the most popular size;
Long head 24;
Hammer;
Large slotted screwdriver;
Mounting tool or mounting blade;
Torque wrench.

It is also worth paying attention to purchasing replacement consumables. You will need the following list:

Rear axle oil seal;
Sealant;
Litol-24;
New self-locking nut for flange;
Liquid key or WD-40;
Rags.

Pay attention to the purchase of components. Here it is worth choosing the right oil seal

It must match the model exactly. But, even in this case, it is possible to save some money; to do this, purchase parts that are manufactured under a contract. They are cheaper, but at the same time they have practically no differences, and their quality is no worse. Just don’t take rubber-metal cuffs made in China, they cost much less, but no one will vouch for the quality.

Addition

Espra, Spain
There is a category of people who want spare parts to be imported, and I largely support them. This is not about patriotism, but about stability of quality. Many times the question has been asked, which imported Niva crankshaft oil seal do you recommend? According to the cuffs, I have one secret love. Very often a situation arises when a “small” company, by the standards of the world giants of spare parts and tools, has its own “know-how”.

In the field of cuffs and seals, there is the Spanish brand Espra, which has now turned into a “packer and repacker” of spare parts from other manufacturers, but they started with “rubber” production. It still operates under its own name. In my humble opinion, their cuffs are among the top three manufacturers in terms of quality and price-quality ratio.

Material: fluorine rubber. I don’t know the exact chemical composition of the mixture, but I’ll say it differently - they remain soft in the cold, when other famous ones are already tanning. Noticeable difference: they have a characteristic blue color. The disadvantage is that they fanatically continue to make cuffs in metal cases, without “elastics”, completely repeating the original. Therefore, during installation, it is better to coat the place where the outer part of the cuff will stand with a thin layer of high-quality sealant.

Replacing the oil seal

To carry out the work you will need a regular set of tools. The only special tool you will need is a puller for the axle shaft, but if you don’t have one, you can do without it. Before carrying out work, ensure that the machine is as motionless as possible. To do this, wheel chocks are installed under the front wheels. First gear is engaged. The work is carried out in the following order:

The wheel fastening becomes loose. The car is raised on a jack. The wheel is completely removed. Supports are placed under the thresholds in case of problems with the jack; ordinary blocks or several wheels folded in a stack will do;
Before removing the brake drum, make sure the wheel is completely released. In this case, the handbrake lever must be lowered, the wheel rotates freely;
The decorative cap is removed. To do this, disconnect it by prying up the fasteners with a screwdriver;
The gap between the flange and the drum is moistened with penetrating lubricant (liquid wrench, WD-40);
The brake drum is secured with two screws, they must be unscrewed. For this you will need a key “12”;
Gently tap the drum with a hammer so you can move it relative to the axle shaft;
In some cases, the drum can be removed quite easily. But sometimes you have to shoot him down. To do this, it is necessary to strike the rim of the drum with a hammer from the back side. Just do this through a block, otherwise you can damage the drum;
The screws holding the axle shaft and the drum casing are unscrewed;
The bridge rises slightly;
The shock absorber bracket should be removed from the axle bearing plate;
The axle shaft is removed; for this you will need a special puller. If it is not there, then you can do without it. To do this, put the wheel on the axle shaft. Screw on 3 nuts, but so that there is free space between them. We press the wheel against the axle and pull it harder towards us. After several passes, seasoned with strong words, the axle shaft should move. All that remains is to extract it;
Now you can change the oil seal. Remove it using a screwdriver. Just pry the oil seal in a convenient place and pull it out;
To install, the new oil seal is pressed back in, and the removed part is used as a mandrel.

Lateral clearance in GP and differential bearing preload

According to the instructions, the lateral clearance and preload on the bearing are adjusted using tool A.95688 / R.

In its absence, a caliper of the appropriate size will perform this role.

To ensure the required preload, the distance to the bearing caps is recorded at the beginning and end of tightening. The required difference in values is 0.2 mm.

The side clearance is adjusted by moving the driven gear towards the drive until it disappears. First, one of the nuts is in a loose position, the other (working) is tightened. After eliminating the gap, gradually tighten the feed nut until the caliper jaws are 0.1 mm apart. The backlash adjustment stops when the teeth click slightly. Then both nuts are tightened evenly to a distance of 0.2 mm. Correct operation is indicated by uniform play in any position of the gears.

Malfunctions

There are three main signs of problems in the operation of the node:

A crunching sound that occurs from the front axle, which intensifies when the steering wheel is turned to its extreme position. It occurs when constant velocity joints wear out. These parts cannot be repaired, so they should be replaced with new ones.
Vibration and noise in the area of the front axle, which occurs when the wheel drive shaft is deformed. It can only be eliminated by replacing the damaged part.
Leakage of lubricant from CV joints. The cause of the malfunction is a damaged boot, which must be replaced immediately. If this is not done in time, you will also have to change the CV joint, which quickly wears out when dirt gets in.

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to provide access to the lower part of the car by installing it on an overpass or inspection hole.

To change drives you will need:

Balloon wrench.
Jack.
Keys for 13, 17 and 27.

Replacing the drive is done as follows:

Unscrew the cardan from the front gearbox.
Jack up the car.
Remove the front wheels.
Unscrew the shock absorbers from the lower control arms.
Unscrew the nuts holding the CV joint bearing housings.
Unscrew the gearbox from the front suspension cross member. To do this, you will need to unscrew the bolts and nuts holding the housing and fastening the suspension brackets of the unit.
Raise the gearbox and secure it in the raised position.
Remove the protective cap from the front wheel hub and unscrew the nut.
Remove the centering sleeve.
Raise the front lower control arm by compressing the suspension spring.
Unscrew the ball joint.
Move the steering knuckle to the side.
Unscrew the fastening and move the exhaust pipe away from the exhaust manifold (this operation is necessary when replacing the right-hand drive).
Pull the gearbox back.
Remove the drive.

Installation is performed in the reverse order of removal.

Important: when tightening the wheel hubs, it is necessary to adjust the clearances in the wheel bearings

Step-by-step instructions for DIY replacement

After installing the vehicle on the inspection hole, it is secured using anti-recoil devices. It is recommended to disable the handbrake first. To remove the old seal, you must first disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft.

The unit must be disassembled in strict accordance with the instructions:

The wheel nuts are loosening. After this, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
There may be rust on the rear axle shoulder that extends past the brake drum that needs to be removed. The part is additionally treated with lubricant.
There are two fastening bolts on the drum, to unscrew them you will need a 12 mm wrench. The drum is gently tapped with a hammer, which allows it to move.
You can use 2 methods to remove the drum. It is squeezed out using bolts that are provided for fastening. The drum is knocked down with a hammer. The procedure is performed as carefully as possible to avoid damage to the edges.
The axle shaft seat is cleaned, which will ensure easy removal of the drum in the future.

The next step is to remove the axle shaft. The Chevrolet Niva has 4 bolts designed to secure the axle. The shock absorber is held in place by a bracket located on the other side of the axle shaft. Once all the bolts are removed, the shock absorber will not hold the rear axle, which is pushed down by the spring.

If oil leaks, you need to jack up the vehicle higher and place a container to collect the fluid under the work area. If the rear axle stocking rests in an inclined position in the other direction, this will eliminate the oil leak.

If the shock absorber is attached to the spring cup, there is no need to unscrew it. In this case, do not use a stand. To unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the rear axle shaft, you must use a 17 mm wrench

When performing the procedure, pay attention to the growers, which should not be in the rear mechanism. If the old groover gets lost and the technician installs a new part, it will get caught in the space between the drum and the shoe, causing the wheel to jam in the vehicle.

After unscrewing the bolts, the axle shaft is removed with a sharp movement along with the bearing. If you can’t pull it out of the holder, it is recommended to secure the wheel to the stud with three nuts and pull it firmly. At home, you can tie the wheel to the garage door with a rope. They knock on the gate with a hammer and the axle shaft comes out of the cage.

After dismantling the axle shaft, the technician will have access to the metal shield intended for attaching the brake pads. It is fixed with two upper bolts, which are inserted into the holes. The remaining actions are performed in accordance with the instructions:

There is a thick rubber lining on the rear axle flange, which is recommended to be removed.
The old oil seal is pryed off with pliers or a screwdriver and removed from its installation location, which must be cleaned and wiped with a rag.
Apply a small amount of transmission oil to the new seal. It is installed in a seat in a level position.
The oil seal is pressed with a round attachment, which is made from a pipe. To avoid damage to the rubber gasket, it is recommended to use the old oil seal during pressing.

After replacing the oil seal, all parts are cleaned of oil - pads, brake cylinder, metal shield and drum. Before assembling the axle shaft, it is recommended to inspect its bearing. If there is no lubrication, the part is processed. If signs of bearing wear are observed, it is replaced with a new part. The need for replacement is determined by sticking or slight noise or difficulty rotating. If malfunctions are observed, then the axle shaft should be taken to a service center, since the bearing can only be replaced with special equipment.

Upon completion of the oil seal replacement work, the oil in the rear axle gearbox is checked. To do this, unscrew the filler plug from the gearbox casing and visually determine the amount of fluid. If there is not enough oil, it is added through a hose that is inserted into the filler neck.

When to change the seal

Replacing the axle seal is not tied to a specific mileage, but is done in connection with the following defects:

Transmission oil leakage from the rear axle of a Chevrolet Niva. It is characterized by the appearance of oil stains on the brake casing and the “stocking” on the side where the axle shaft seal has lost its seal.
In case of accidental damage to the seal when replacing the axle bearing. Happens when a part is pulled out of its socket.

A distinction should be made between transmission oil leakage from the axle seal on either side of the rear beam and from the gearbox shank where the driveshaft is secured. In the second case, greasy stains and dirt cover the rear axle gear housing, located in the middle.

If for various reasons you need to replace the axle bearing, then you should also change the oil seal at the same time. This will save you from having to disassemble the unit again due to leakage of the old part. The part costs mere pennies, its catalog number for the Chevrolet Niva is 2110-2301034 (right) and 2110-2301035 (left), and the overall dimensions are as follows:

outer diameter - 57 mm;

width - 9 mm;

The diameter of the hole along the protruding rubber (or silicone) edge is 35 mm.

Tools and preparation for replacement

To change a part, you need to install the machine on a lift or inspection pit. To replace it yourself you will need:

new oil seal;
standard set of wrenches;
hammer;
pliers;
a powerful wrench (without it it will not be possible to unscrew and tighten the shank nut);
large flat screwdriver;
puller;
universal or key for fixing the shank flange;
durable elastic cord;
canter scale or dynamometer;
torque wrench.

Instead of a wrench, you can use a homemade device in the form of two M8 bolts and a wrench to hold the shank flange. With their help, it will be possible to reliably keep the part from turning. To do this you need to: insert the bolts into the holes in the flange and place the knob between them.

It is important to use this improvised device correctly. The driver must be inserted in front of the flange, not behind it.

Otherwise, you may accidentally knock down the mud deflector.

Replacement process

As mentioned above, before starting work you should drive onto an overpass or pit. If you don’t have one, then you can make races from boards, but this is not entirely safe, and it will be less convenient to work this way. But, if necessary, you can use this option. Also, moisten all threaded connections with liquid wrench in advance; as a rule, all elements and structures located on the bridge are susceptible to corrosion. After processing, it will be much easier to unscrew them. Place wheel chocks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling away.

Repairs are carried out in the following order

If the car was parked on the handbrake, be sure to remove it from the brake;
The lubricant is drained from the gearbox; this must be done carefully into a previously prepared container. After draining, be sure to screw the plug back into place;
Remove the brake drum;
Next, unscrew the four nuts that secure the axle bearing;
Raise the bridge a little;
The shock absorber bracket is removed;
Using a puller, remove the axle shaft. They do the same on the other side.

After this you can proceed to dismantling the cardan

We mark the position of the cardan and axle flanges relative to each other;
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the cardan; for convenience, it is worth stopping the cardan shaft from turning with a screwdriver. Tie the removed shaft with wire so that it does not interfere.

The work is now complete, all that remains is to mount all the removed parts in place. This happens in reverse order. When tightening the flange nut, check the resistance to turning it; the indicator should be equal to the original one.

Similar problems on other models

. Almost all cars equipped with a rear axle have a problem with lubricant leaking through the gearbox flange. But, knowing how to replace the rear axle gear seal of a Niva Chevrolet, you can do similar work on other cars without any problems.

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Cuffs victor reinz (germany)

cuff Victor Reinz (Germany)
Quite a well-known German manufacturer. Cuffs made of fluorine rubber. A hydrodynamic notch is applied. And everything seemed to be fine, but it wasn’t. It took from 20-40 thousand kilometers and the cuffs began to leak and “snotty”. Only later did I learn information from my colleague that the VR brand has long been a “packer” of spare parts made on various conveyors. And you need to know exactly which factory this or that article comes from.

Preparation and disassembly

To independently remove a leaking rear axle oil seal on a Niva Chevrolet, you will need the following tools:

standard set of wrenches;
slotted screwdriver and wheel wrench;
jack;
hammer;
wooden stand;
cloth gloves.

Never neglect gloves when repairing a car: they will protect your hands from damage due to accidental impacts. The height of the wooden stand should be enough to support the rear axle with the wheel removed and the shock absorber unscrewed, otherwise oil will leak from it.

Before removing the old seal, you will have to disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft. Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:

Place the car on a level surface and secure it with wheel chocks. Make sure the handbrake is turned off.
Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Clean the rear axle flange that protrudes beyond the brake drum from rust. Additionally, you can treat this area with WD-40 lubricant.
Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the drum with a 12 mm wrench, then gently tap with a hammer to move it out of place.
The drum is removed in 2 ways: by squeezing it out with the same bolts, screwed into other holes, or by knocking it with a hammer through a piece of wood. The methods can be combined, just be careful not to damage the edge of the drum with the blows.
After dismantling, clean the seat on the axle shaft again to make the drum easier to remove.

The next step is unscrewing and removing the axle shaft. In the VAZ 2131 Niva Chevrolet, 4 bolts securing it are held on the other side by a bracket holding the shock absorber.

After unscrewing the bolts, the shock absorber will no longer hold the rear axle, and the spring will push it down, causing oil to flow.

To avoid this, you need to first adjust the stand by jacking the car higher. The rear axle “stocking” must rest with a slope in the other direction so that the oil does not leak out.

Since in a regular Niva VAZ 21214 and 21213 the shock absorber is attached to the spring cup, and not to the rear hub, there is no need to unscrew it. A stand is also not needed here; a jack is enough to lift it.

The 4 bolts holding the rear axle shaft are unscrewed with a 17 mm wrench

Pay attention to the growers: they should not get lost in the brake mechanism. If you ignore the loss of the groover and install a new one, then the old one will subsequently get between the block and the drum while driving and the wheel will jam

After unscrewing the bolts, with a sharp movement, remove the axle shaft with the bearing from the cage. If this fails, attach the wheel to the studs with 3 nuts and try to pull it. The last option is to use a special inertial puller for removal. There is also a popular method: tie the axle shaft with a rope to an iron garage door and hit it with a hammer to knock it out of the cage. But for this you need to carefully park the car closer to the gate.