What tool is required for the job?
- Screwdriver Set
- A set of keys
- Hammer
- The key is not just a torque wrench
Once the tool is prepared, you can begin to work by performing the following series of actions:
- Lower the parking brake all the way down
- Drain the oil from the rear axle gearbox
- Both axle shafts are removed
- Disconnect the cardan drive from the flange drive gear
- Unscrew the nut that secures the flange
- Let's take it off
- Using a screwdriver, remove the old oil seal
- Lubricate the outer edge of the new oil seal and install it in place using a mandrel of suitable diameter.
- Screw the nut and washer into place
At this point, the work on replacing the oil seal on the Chevrolet Niva can be considered completed. The removed parts are installed in the reverse order of removal. If difficulties arise during the replacement, then it is better to contact a specialized service, where specialists will carry out the replacement.
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When to change bearings on Chevrolet Niva axle shafts
Since our car is often operated in very difficult conditions, the loads on the bearings are very high. In addition to loads, the bearing may be subject to moisture attack when the axle shaft seal fails . At the same time, oil may begin to leak from the rear axle housing. As a result, the bearing is poorly lubricated and the grease is washed out over time.
A crunching sound from the rear wheel indicates a wheel bearing failure.
The most obvious symptom of bearing failure will be increased noise at any speed. In more severe cases, both radial and axial play may be observed.
The factory allows axial clearance of the axle shaft of no more than 0.7 mm , but most often the axle shaft will indicate the destruction of the bearing with strong noise and crackling.
At the first symptoms of a bearing failure, you need to start replacing it.
Numbers and articles
Fortunately, the axle bearing is not the most scarce part. It is one of the most popular of the 500 series of single-row bearings and is produced by a huge number of factories in the CIS, as well as in many European countries. Its industrial index is 180508 , the index of its foreign analogues is 62208-2RS . Automobile factory article number - 2121-2403080 .
Basic parameters of factory parts for repair
Main technical indicators of the unit: diameter and length of the axle, number and length of the spline belt, type of bearings and sealing seals. These indicators are determined by the design features of the system and the calculated traction forces under comparable operating conditions at the time of design and production.
Often, under the influence of large loads, deformation of the axle shafts occurs, premature wear and jamming of the support ball bearings occurs, deformation and fatigue wear of the sealing seals, followed by leakage of transmission oil from the axle.
Factories producing spare parts for the domestic automotive industry are constantly striving to improve manufactured vehicle components and assemblies. They regularly offer consumers a newer, more reliable, more modern product.
Let's consider the technical parameters of the drive elements of the rear axle of an SUV.
Half shaft
Main characteristics:
- Catalog number: 21230-2403069-00, 21230240306900, 2123-2403069.
- Length: 760 mm.
- Diameter for oil seal: 35 mm
- Weight: 8.4 kg.
- Manufacturer: AvtoVAZ
- Average market prices: 6900 rubles.
Existing analogues:
- axle shaft, standard size for VAZ 2121 Chevrolet Niva, average price 3,400 rubles;
- Russian, the average price is 3900 rubles.
Rolling ball bearings
- Catalog number: 2121-2403080. Designation - GPZ - V76-180508AK2US9.
- Manufacturing index: 180508, 62208-2RS
- Manufacturer: AVTOVAZ
- Average market prices: 400 rubles;
- Inner diameter - 40 mm;
- Outer diameter - 80 mm;
- Width - 23 mm;
- Weight - 440g;
- Rated rotation speed - 5600 rpm.
Foreign bearing manufacturers - NSK, SKF, SNR. Average price from 600 rubles.
Oil seals
- Catalog number: 21100-2301034-00-0 - left and 21100-2301035-00-0 - right.
- Overall dimensions: 35x57x9 mm.
- Manufacturer: AVTOVAZ.
- Average market prices: 45-60 rubles.
Existing alternatives:
- CV joint drive oil seal 2110.08 “RT” universal, manufacturer RUZINOTEHNIKA;
- axle drive seal VAZ-2110-2112, 2123 right/left (35x57x9), manufacturer General Motors.
It is also worth noting the German manufacturer Corteco. This company produces a wide range of oil seals for the VAZ-2123.
Ready-made repair kits
On the spare parts market you can also purchase a ready-made repair kit for servicing the rear axle shafts of the VAZ-2123.
The repair kit for the rear axle shaft of the VAZ 2123 Chevy Niva from ESPRA consists of bearing 2121-2403080, sealing oil seal 2110-2301034 and locking ring 2123-2403084. The average price of such a set is 690 - 890 rubles.
Interesting! Some Niva owners prefer to purchase ready-made kits from one manufacturer, considering this to be a kind of guarantee of the compatibility of the parts being replaced.
NIVA oil seals
1. NIVA gearbox seals:
-Oil seal for the input shaft of the gearbox (gearbox) NIVA-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:
Catalogue number: 2101-1701043
oil seal dimensions: 28x47x8mm
- Seal of the secondary shaft of the gearbox (shank) VAZ-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:
Catalogue number: 2101-1701210
oil seal dimensions: 32x56x11mm
2 . NIVA front axle oil seals:
-Oil seal for the front axle gearbox NIVA- 2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123,-2120
catalog number: 2121-2302052
-Drive seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2131,-2123, universal (without direction)
Catalog number: 2123-2303120 / 121 2 pcs.
seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm
But it is better to install seals with a notch (left, right):
Left drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123
Catalog number: 21213-2301035 1 piece.
Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm
Right drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2123
Catalog number: 21213-2301034 1 piece.
Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm
3. Transfer Case Seals 3pcs:
2 identical oil seals are installed on the valve:
catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (this is the rear axle gearbox seal on the VAZ-2101 and NIVA-2121 of right rotation),
one is installed on the drive shaft of the RK:
(in the lower diagram), the second is on the front shaft of the RK differential (see the upper diagram - highlighted in red)
Dimensions of these seals in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 10(12) 2 pcs.
An oil seal is installed on the rear shaft of the RK differential - this is the 3rd oil seal (highlighted in blue in the top diagram)
with catalog number: 2121-2302052 left rotation 1 pc.
Dimensions in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 11(12)
4. Rear axle gear oil seal :
catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (rear axle gearbox VAZ-2101) 1 pc.
5. Axle shaft seals for Chevy NIVA-2123:
Seals for VAZ-2110 drives of right and left rotation are installed
catalog numbers of oil seals: 2110-2301034 right - 1 piece
gland dimensions in mm: 57 x 35 x 9
In the photo: VAZ-2123 axle seals (BRT) red-left, black-right.
The arrow on the oil seal indicates the direction of rotation of the shaft (when the vehicle is moving forward).
Source
Reasons for accelerated wear
The service life of the part is greatly reduced in the following cases:
- The gearbox breather is clogged. Under air pressure, oil is squeezed out through the cuff, breaking the internal stiffener.
- The universal joint flange nut is not tightened correctly. Backlash or increased friction leads to rapid wear of the oil seal.
- The transmission oil contains aggressive additives.
- The rubber of the cuff was exposed to chemicals from the road surface.
- The gearbox overheats due to poor quality or lack of lubrication.
The oil seal can also be damaged if a hard object gets between it and the shaft. It could be a splintered gear tooth, a piece of a retaining ring, or simply sand that accidentally got into the oil.
Preparation and disassembly
To independently remove a leaking rear axle oil seal on a Niva Chevrolet, you will need the following tools:
- standard set of wrenches;
- slotted screwdriver and wheel wrench;
- jack;
- hammer;
- wooden stand;
- cloth gloves.
Never neglect gloves when repairing a car: they will protect your hands from damage due to accidental impacts. The height of the wooden stand should be enough to support the rear axle with the wheel removed and the shock absorber unscrewed, otherwise oil will leak from it.
Before removing the old seal, you will have to disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft. Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:
- Place the car on a level surface and secure it with wheel chocks. Make sure the handbrake is turned off.
- Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
- Clean the rear axle flange that protrudes beyond the brake drum from rust. Additionally, you can treat this area with WD-40 lubricant.
- Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the drum with a 12 mm wrench, then gently tap with a hammer to move it out of place.
- The drum is removed in 2 ways: by squeezing it out with the same bolts, screwed into other holes, or by knocking it with a hammer through a piece of wood. The methods can be combined, just be careful not to damage the edge of the drum with the blows.
- After dismantling, clean the seat on the axle shaft again to make the drum easier to remove.
The next step is unscrewing and removing the axle shaft. In the VAZ 2131 Niva Chevrolet, 4 bolts securing it are held on the other side by a bracket holding the shock absorber.
After unscrewing the bolts, the shock absorber will no longer hold the rear axle, and the spring will push it down, causing oil to flow.
To avoid this, you need to first adjust the stand by jacking the car higher. The rear axle “stocking” must rest with a slope in the other direction so that the oil does not leak out.
Preparatory activities
Before proceeding with the replacement, the owner of a Niva Chevrolet car needs to prepare a number of tools. In the process you will need:
- box and socket wrenches in a set;
- flat screwdriver;
- wheel wrench;
- hammer;
- jack;
- additional wooden support;
- a piece of pipe equal to the diameter of the gland.
Be sure to wear work gloves - they will not only keep your hands clean, but also protect your fingers from injury.
The stand will need to be such that after removing the wheel and dismantling the shock absorber, the rear axle remains at approximately the same height. Otherwise, you risk losing too much transmission oil.
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How to replace the rear axle axle seal on a Chevrolet Niva
Replacing the oil seal located on the axle shaft directly of the rear axle is a rather troublesome procedure on all VAZ vehicles, but not particularly complicated. A Chevrolet Niva whose seal has leaked can be easily repaired with its own hands - the car owner does not need any qualifications or extensive work experience. It is enough for him to follow the instructions below and have a basic set of tools on the farm. The situation is the same in the case of classic Niva models.
Installing a New Seal
After removing the axle shaft, the metal shield where the brake pads are attached will remain hanging on the copper pipe with the fluid, so it should be fixed by inserting the 2 upper bolts back into the holes. Then follow the instructions:
- Remove the thick rubber gasket from the rear axle flange.
- Pull out the old oil seal by prying it with a screwdriver or pliers. Clean the seat and wipe with a rag.
- Lightly lubricate the new seal with transmission oil and insert it into the socket of the Niva rear axle as evenly as possible.
- Using a round pipe adapter, press the oil seal into the socket with light blows of a hammer. You can use an old seal as an additional attachment.
At the end of the procedure, you must thoroughly wipe all parts free of oil - the brake cylinder, pads, drum and metal shield. Before reassembling, it would be a good idea to check the axle bearing for wear and grease. Wear is indicated by difficulty turning, binding, or slight noise. If you discover a malfunction, take the axle shaft to the nearest car service center; you will not be able to replace the bearing without special equipment.
To check the grease inside the bearing, you need to pry the plastic covering the rollers with an awl and remove it. Then add thick Litol-type lubricant inside and put the plastic in place, and then begin assembly.
At the end, it is important to check the oil level in the rear axle gearbox of the Chevrolet Niva. The test is carried out on a fully assembled car, standing on a level area. The filler plug is unscrewed from the gearbox housing, after which the oil level is determined visually or using a thin wooden stick. If there is a shortage, you need to insert a hose of a suitable diameter into the filler neck with a watering can at the end, where the lubricant is poured. It is more convenient to top up with an assistant: you control the level, and the assistant gradually adds oil.
When to change the seal
Replacing the axle seal is not tied to a specific mileage, but is done in connection with the following defects:
- Transmission oil leakage from the rear axle of a Chevrolet Niva. It is characterized by the appearance of oil stains on the brake casing and the “stocking” on the side where the axle shaft seal has lost its seal.
- In case of accidental damage to the seal when replacing the axle bearing. Happens when a part is pulled out of its socket.
A distinction should be made between transmission oil leakage from the axle seal on either side of the rear beam and from the gearbox shank where the driveshaft is secured. In the second case, greasy stains and dirt cover the rear axle gear housing, located in the middle.
If for various reasons you need to replace the axle bearing, then you should also change the oil seal at the same time. This will save you from having to disassemble the unit again due to leakage of the old part. The part costs mere pennies, its catalog number for the Chevrolet Niva is 2110-2301034 (right) and 2110-2301035 (left), and the overall dimensions are as follows:
- outer diameter - 57 mm;
- width - 9 mm;
- The diameter of the hole along the protruding rubber (or silicone) edge is 35 mm.
The catalog number and dimensions of the O-ring of the Niva VAZ 21214 axle shaft are identical. In addition to the oil seal itself, transmission oil will be needed to replenish the lost amount in the gearbox. TAD17I brand oil is considered “native” for all types of VAZ gearboxes.
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14.3 Removing the axle shaft and replacing the oil seal
We send and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see "Replacing the rear brake pads" )
Using a "14" socket with an extension through one of the two large holes in the axle flange, loosen the four bolts securing the plate axle and brake shield to the rear axle beam flange.
Remove the bolts along with spring washers.
Hold the brake shield so that it does not hang on the brake cylinder tube and lower it slightly.
. and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws that secure the brake shield to the axle (on the back of the shield).
If these screws cannot be removed, see Method Two. remove the axle shaft (bottom).
To prevent the brake shield from hanging on the brake line, we pass an M8 bolt through one of its top mounting holes and insert it into the corresponding hole on the beam flange.
Rotate the axle plate.
. We screw two bolts M 12×1.25 with a length of two threaded parts of more than 80 mm into the diametrically located holes of the wheel mounting in accordance with the complete program in the brake shield next to the holes on the beam flange.
Replacing Chevrolet Niva on axle shafts, replaceable pads (rear)
After.
Turn the bolts one by one.
Replacing the cuff on the rear axle gearbox of a VAZ 2107.
. Press and remove the shaft axle.
It is possible to dismantle the axle shaft using the wheel as a shock absorber. Screw two bolts 100-150 mm long into the hub holes, passing them through the wheel holes.
. and, holding the wheel, pulls and pulls the shaft axis.
If it is not possible to remove the two screws that secure the brake shield to the axle plate, then the axle must be removed along with the brake shield. To do this, disconnect the brake pipe from the rear wheel cylinder (see Replacing the rear wheel cylinder ) and attach the rear end of the parking brake cable branch to the brake flap (see “Adjusting and removing parking brake system components” ) Use the wheel as a shock absorber.
. we move and remove the axle shaft along with the brake shield.
Look: Izh-2126 has half the length of different lengths (shorter on the right).
Lubricate the gland with a spatula.
Using the appropriate section of the pipe, press the new seal.
In case of deformation of the axle shaft, wear of its grooves and, of course, wear of the bearing, we replace the axle shaft with a new one with a bearing and a retaining ring (it is not recommended to replace a bearing with a different retaining ring).
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Useful tips
Many drivers combine oil seal replacement and transmission oil change. If you decide to do the same, then it makes sense to find out what type of lubricant is used in your case. It is not recommended to mix different types of oils. This will lead to performance problems. If it is necessary to change the type of lubricant, it is recommended to first flush the system.
When removing the axle shaft, oil will begin to flow out. Therefore, it is better to drain it in advance. If you do not want to change the lubricant, then you need to take measures against its leakage. To do this, simply raise the side of the car from which you are changing the oil seal higher. This way you will avoid lubricant leakage. But, in any case, there is a risk of lubricant leakage. Be sure to add a new portion of oil after all work has been completed.
When reinstalling the brake drum, pay attention to its condition. Often there is a development along the shoulder. It should be removed using a regular file. This simple action will significantly improve braking.
In some cases, oil seal wear can be caused by a bent axle shaft. In this case, knocking noises will be heard when moving, and the oil seal will be worn out on only one side. In many cases, you can even visually determine the damage. Such a defect can only be corrected in a workshop on a special stand. If this is not possible, then you will have to buy a new part.
Disassembly
To get to the failed seal, you will need to remove from your Chevrolet Niva all the parts that make up the right or left rear hub assembly. Only then will it be possible to remove the axle shaft.
Disassembly is carried out in this order:
- park the car on a level place;
- secure the front wheels with stoppers;
- turn off the handbrake;
- slightly loosen the nuts securing the wheel;
- lift the car with a jack;
- remove the wheel;
- clean the end of the axle shaft, which protrudes slightly beyond the dimensions of the brake disc, from dirt and rust;
- spray it with WD-40;
- unscrew a couple of bolts holding the drum (you need a 12 mm wrench);
- Move the above brake element with light hammer blows.
Please note that there are two main methods used to remove the drum. In the first case, it is squeezed out of place by screwing the above-mentioned bolts into the free holes. In the second, they use the same hammer, but using a stump of a block as a protective pad. Without this preventative measure, it is easy to damage the edge of the brake disc.
After dismantling the drum, it is advisable to once again thoroughly clean its seat from dirt and corrosion - this will make it easier to install it back.
Next, you need to remove the axle shaft. On a Chevrolet it is held in place by four bolts - they also secure the shock absorber in parallel. When the fasteners are unscrewed, the rear axle falls down, as the spring simply squeezes it out. You need to put a support under it, otherwise all the oil will spill out.
Please note that in classic Niva models (21213 or 21214) the shock absorber is fixed to the spring cup, while in Chevrolet it is fixed directly to the hub. Accordingly, in older cars there is simply no need to remove it, which means there is no need for a stand.
To unscrew the bolts securing the axle shaft, a 17 mm wrench is required. Be careful not to drop the spring lock washers into the brake mechanism. If growers remain there, sooner or later they will end up in the space separating the block from the drum, and this leads to a potentially dangerous failure such as a jammed wheel.
Having pulled out the bolts, with a sharp jerk towards yourself, pull out the axle shaft along with the bearing. If the node does not give in, then:
- put the wheel back;
- screw 3 nuts onto the studs;
- wiggle it a little and try to pull it off again.
The surest way is to use an inertial puller, but the vast majority of car owners simply do not have this tool.
Axle shaft seal
Axle shaft seal
Post by plantain » 04 Jun 2011, 16:48
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by rv3dll » 05 Jun 2011, 11:11
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by plantain » 05 Jun 2011, 16:59
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Spiteful critic » 05 Jun 2011, 19:48
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by plantain » Jun 06, 2011, 12:24 pm
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Spiteful critic » Jun 06, 2011, 2:01 p.m.
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by smbmax » May 31, 2012, 08:13
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Anton » May 31, 2012, 08:38
Most likely your bridge stocking is bent. Or wear of the axle shaft in the part of contact with the oil seal.
Re: Axle shaft seal
Posted by doc Brown » 31 May 2012, 09:09
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Pavl0 » 02 Jul 2013, 17:08
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Vovchik » 02 Jul 2013, 17:23
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by doc Brown » 02 Jul 2013, 17:58
Re: Axle shaft seal
Posted by ayax » Mar 12, 2014 2:03 pm
Re: Axle shaft seal
Post by Serg548 » Apr 06, 2014, 07:02
Good day everyone! I also changed the axle shaft seals on my NIVKA a week ago. On the right it was leaking, it was an infection, the disk was already covered in fuel oil. I changed both. The next day the right side started leaking again. I didn’t take it apart right away, I drove it for a couple of days and it calmed down. So far everything is dry.
Added after 13 minutes 57 seconds: Maxim, the breather is very easy to clean, you can press it, twist its cap, you can remove it (unscrew it) and blow it out with a pump. Or just buy and install a new one. I don't think it's worth much.
How to install a new oil seal
When the axle shaft is removed from the car, the nearby metal shield used to mount the pads will be essentially loose. It will only be held in place by a thin copper tube filled with brake fluid. To prevent the latter from breaking, the shield must be temporarily secured with a pair of previously unscrewed bolts.
Removing and installing the oil seal is done as follows:
- remove the gasket from the bridge flange (do not tear it, although it is thick, it is still rubber);
- remove the damaged oil seal - pick it up with a flat screwdriver;
- thoroughly clean the area where it previously stood with a cotton, lint-free cloth;
- Before installation, the new seal must be wiped with oil (necessarily with transmission oil);
- place the element in the socket and make sure there is no distortion;
- Press it in with a piece of pipe so that the rubber is not damaged - place the old oil seal on top of it.
Now it is important to thoroughly clean all removed elements from dirt and oil. It is absolutely unacceptable to leave traces of grease on brake parts:
- drum;
- cylinder;
- pads;
- shield
If only the oil seal was changed on the Chevrolet, then it is advisable to inspect the axle bearing as well. The part is checked for wear, lack of play and presence of grease on the rollers. If an element breaks soon, then it:
- rotates tightly;
- makes noise;
- rattles when shaken.
Please note that you cannot replace the bearing yourself. This operation will be performed for you at a car service center. You can only check if there is lubricant inside. To do this, carefully lift the plastic plug covering the rollers and look inside. In the absence or its obvious insufficiency, ordinary Litol is laid. The plastic ring is then placed in place.
Now you can assemble the knot. Follow all steps described in the instructions in reverse order.
Finally, be sure to check how much oil is left in the gearbox of your Chevrolet. To do this, lower the car onto its wheels and make sure it is level. Then:
- find the neck plug on the casing;
- turn it inside out;
- take a look inside.
If there is not enough lubricant, add it using a hose and funnel. It is better to do the work with a partner - one will add oil, and the other will monitor its level.
In what situations is it necessary to replace the oil seal?
The sealing element mounted on a Chevrolet axle shaft does not have a service life determined by the mileage. For this reason, replacement is carried out only when certain signs of malfunction of this rubber band are detected. In particular, repairs are definitely necessary when it turns out that transmission oil begins to leak. This is evidenced by characteristic stains found either on the rear axle housing or on the Niva brake housing. Depending on where the leaky axle shaft seal is located, drips will appear on the right or left.
In addition, the seal in question often becomes unusable when the bearing located there is replaced. The elastic usually breaks when this element is pulled out. The problem is that to dismantle the named part it is often necessary to apply a lot of force or use not very delicate methods.
It is important to understand that in a Chevrolet, in the rear axle area, there can also be a leak from the gear shaft that holds the driveshaft. In the latter case, oil drips appear exactly in the middle.
Thus, anyone who intends to replace the bearing located on the Chevrolet Niva axle shaft is recommended to buy a fresh oil seal and, for preventive purposes, install it instead of the old one, regardless of the performance of the latter. The part will cost literally a few rubles, and it is not difficult to find it by article number. So, in the case of the right part of the bridge, take 2110-2301034, for the left - 2110-2301035.
- outer diameter is 57 millimeters;
- internal – 35;
- height – 9.
If a Niva model 21214 requires repairs, then the axle shaft sealing ring is the same.
In addition to the oil seal, before replacement it is necessary to purchase a sufficient amount of transmission oil, because some of the lubricant in the gearbox will probably spill. If you don’t know which one is suitable, then buy what is poured at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant - its brand TAD-17I.
Advice on how to remove drives without dismantling the Niva front gearbox
- To dismantle the drives, it is necessary to unscrew the fastenings of the gearbox (in this case, some kind of stop is placed under it).
- Then the steering knuckles are released. To do this, simply unscrew the shock absorber mount from the lower arm and the lower ball joint.
- To relieve the load, jack up the lower suspension arm.
- Unscrew the hub nut and remove the centering ring. The nut is too tight, so we use a wrench extension (for example, a metal pipe).
- We move the steering knuckle to the side. The drive can then move freely.
- To ensure free movement of the drive during removal, the gearbox must be moved back slightly.
- We remove the drive, being careful not to damage the anthers. If the boot is torn, it must be replaced.
- The procedure for removing the right and left CV joint drives is similar.
Before dismantling, it is necessary to mechanically remove dirt from the inside of the steering knuckles and from the bottom of the car above the work area. The best option is to wash the bottom with a high-pressure apparatus one day before carrying out work.
Hub repair: popular mistakes and misconceptions
Connoisseurs of tuned cars are often able to make radical changes to their cars. And few restrictions exist for them. Owners of Niva Chevrolet are no exception. Tuning fans also took a look at the design of the front hub assembly. Often on online forums in discussions you can find advice (and even corresponding training videos) about replacing the bearing using a hub mechanism that has a steering knuckle from a VAZ 2121 car, since it is believed that this design is better in terms of reliability.
However, this is a misconception. Yes, tightening will occur without any difficulties, but this will make it impossible to adjust the camber of the front wheel of the car. The fact is that each fist has distinct differences in size and axial angles. But much more stupid are the tips that require turning the hub and shaft on a lathe.
Repairs such as replacing a wheel bearing in a field can be done independently without much difficulty. Wheel bearings on the VAZ 2121 and Chevrolet Niva have a very short resource due to the suspension design, compared to other all-wheel drive vehicles, therefore, these parts need to be given increased attention in order to identify the fault in time.
Replacing a wheel bearing in the field does not involve anything complicated if you follow the instructions strictly. Anyone, even a novice car owner, can cope with such repairs. Not all vases have wheel bearings changed the same way. The design of the Niva car hub differs from the design of other VAZ models, so the process of replacing the bearing will also have its differences.
Symptoms and identification of a worn wheel bearing
When the life of the hub bearing is running out, a hum is clearly audible when driving, this is the main sign. If you listen, you can understand which direction this hum is coming from. When driving at low speeds, it is not too noticeable, and it can easily be confused with noise from rubber, but as speed increases, the hum increases, which is reminiscent of flying in an airplane. You can’t drive with a humming bearing, because soon it may simply break into pieces, and this implies a lot of other problems.
If there is an assumption that the bearing has exhausted its service life, then you can check this with the car parked. To do this, you need to jack up the wheel whose bearing is suspected and pull the wheel vertically with your hands. If there is play, then the bearing is most likely to blame.
And also interesting: Do-it-yourself Niva suspension lift. How to lift the front and rear suspension of a Niva car?
Necessary tools for work
- Jack and supports. To replace the front bearing, you need to lift both wheels, otherwise the stabilizer will interfere, pinching the suspension elements;
- Wrench for unscrewing wheel nuts;
- Flathead screwdriver. To remove the protective cap;
- Head 27;
- Locksmith's beard. To straighten the collar of the hub nut;
- Hammer;
- Wrenches for 10, 17, 19 and 22;
- Chisel and wooden spacer. To avoid damaging other parts when knocking out;
- Vise;
- A piece of pipe for pressing in bearing retaining rings.
Bearing replacement process
- Loosen the nuts on the wheel where replacement is planned and jack up both wheels of the axle. Remove the desired wheel;
- We dismantle the caliper and guide. To avoid damaging the brake hose, we tie the caliper to the upper arm with wire;
- Having removed the protective cap, use a 27mm head to unscrew the hub bearing nut and remove the conical bushing;
- Using a chisel, unbend the locking plate of the front and rear lever mounting nuts. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the front and rear nuts securing the lever. After this, remove the locking plate;
- When the lever is released, it must be moved away from the steering knuckle, freeing the brake hose;
- Disconnect the ball joints (upper and lower) from the lever;
- Now you can remove the entire steering knuckle assembly, along with the ball joints and the brake disc, by removing it from the CV joint splines;
- Separate the steering knuckle from the hub with the brake disc. If the parts do not separate freely, then we clamp the fist in a vice and, using a soft metal drift or chisel, through a spacer from wood, knock out the hub with the brake disc;
- Next, pull out the bolts securing the lever and knock down the protective ring with a chisel;
- Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt that secures the casing and remove the casing itself;
- We hold the fist in a vice and, using a flat-head screwdriver, pry up and remove the wheel bearing seal. There is a metal ring behind the oil seal, we also remove it;
- The next step is to remove the inner ring of the outer bearing assembly from the well. Next, we also remove the oil seal, metal ring and inner bearing ring assembly;
- Using a punch and a hammer, we knock out the metal rings of the outer and inner bearings. At this point, dismantling is considered complete.
After cleaning the well from old grease, you can proceed to installing a new bearing. Replacing a wheel bearing in a field occurs in the reverse order; it is only important not to forget to fill it with fresh Litol 24 grease and, after installing the steering knuckle on the car, adjust the clearance in the bearings.
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Front axle structure.
To replace the oil seal, it is not necessary to dismantle the front axle. When replacing oil seals yourself, it is not recommended to use a lift; it is better to carry out the work on an inspection pit or overpass. The rear wheels must be secured with supports. The gearbox and transfer case levers must be adjusted to the neutral position. When using a jack, it is better to hang the front part on special supports.
First, the replacement area is cleaned of drips and traces of technical fluids. After this, the crankcase plug is unscrewed and the oil in the gearbox is drained into a special container. After this, the plug is installed in place.
To carry out the replacement, you need to stock up on the following set of tools:
- set of socket wrenches and hexagons
- hammer and pry bar
- Screwdriver Set
- puller with two or three legs
- pipe sections equal to the diameter of the seals
- Liquid for removing oil residues, such as kerosene
- metal mesh
- rags
Replacing the oil seal on the drive gear drive, main steps
- it is necessary to unscrew the bolts holding the flange, remove the cardan shaft from the gearbox
- disconnect the CV joint housing from the drive.
- you need to connect a dynamometer and determine at what moment the rotation begins. To do this, rotate the flange mount until the gears begin to move.
- bolts are screwed into adjacent holes
- Between the bolts there is a pry bar, with the help of which the flange is kept from turning.
- After this, you can remove the flange along with the washer using a universal puller.
- The oil seal from the bridge gear is replaced with a new original spare part. The sealing ring must be lubricated with grease or lithol.
- After this, it is necessary to press the ring using a pipe of a suitable diameter.
- The flange fits onto the spline connection.
- The cardan shaft is installed in place.
Which to choose?
This part is not very expensive. The oil seal catalog number is 2123-1802120-30. In online stores you can find parts at prices starting from 50 rubles.
Important: given the low cost of the oil seal and the high complexity of replacement, a new part must be installed every time the gearbox is disassembled. This is cheaper than disassembling the assembly again to replace the seal.
According to reviews from Chevy Niva owners, products from General Motors, ROSTECO and some other manufacturers have decent quality. They are distinguished by a higher price (from 150 rubles) and reliable wear-resistant material of the cuffs.
Tools and preparation for replacement
To change a part, you need to install the machine on a lift or inspection pit. To replace it yourself you will need:
- new oil seal;
- standard set of wrenches;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- a powerful wrench (without it it will not be possible to unscrew and tighten the shank nut);
- large flat screwdriver;
- puller;
- universal or key for fixing the shank flange;
- durable elastic cord;
- canter scale or dynamometer;
- torque wrench.
Instead of a wrench, you can use a homemade device in the form of two M8 bolts and a wrench to hold the shank flange. With their help, it will be possible to reliably keep the part from turning. To do this you need to: insert the bolts into the holes in the flange and place the knob between them.
It is important to use this improvised device correctly. The driver must be inserted in front of the flange, not behind it. Otherwise, you may accidentally knock down the mud deflector.
The process of replacing the rear axle oil seal
You should first turn off the engine. Further:
- Release the brake (parking) lever if it has been depressed.
- Drain the oil from the bridge and screw the drain plug back on.
Drain the oil from the bridge and screw the plug back on.
Removing the axle shaft seal.
Disconnect the cardan from the bridge.
Disconnect the cardan from the bridge.
Check the tightening force of the nut using a torque wrench and remember this reading.
We check the moment of resistance to turning the drive gear.
Unscrew the nut that secures the flange.
Unscrew the nut securing the drive gear flange.
Remove the washer located under the nut.
Remove the drive gear flange.
Use a screwdriver to remove the oil seal.
Using a screwdriver, remove the old oil seal.
Lubricate the new oil seal and install it in place (Litol-24). The outer side of the oil seal should be lubricated with sealant.
Lubricate the new oil seal before installation.
Install the oil seal using a hammer, lightly tapping the oil seal. Installation depth – 1.7–2.2 mm from the end.
Install a new oil seal using a mandrel and a hammer.
- Install the washer and nut.
- Tighten the nut. Tightening torque – 120-150 Nm.
- Further, all installation work should be done in reverse order.
