How to properly tension the timing belt of a VAZ 2114 8-valve injector

What are the consequences of incorrect timing belt tension for the VAZ-2114 engine?

The timing belt has almost slipped. Pay attention to the gap from the belt to the engine, it is uneven

If the belt is significantly displaced, a picture similar to its complete break may be observed. Therefore, it is necessary to pay serious attention to the correct tension of the timing belt, both when replacing it and during operation of the vehicle. You can do this yourself, but be careful and be sure to follow the instructions below.

Proper tension (order and process)

Before you begin tensioning the timing belt, you must turn off the engine after idling in neutral gear. In this case, the engine crankshaft will stop in a position where all the forces acting on it will be balanced. Now let's start tensioning.

Remove the belt protective cover.

The casing has been removed. We inspect the belt

Video of replacing and tensioning the timing belt on a VAZ-2114

Timing roller location

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the timing belt and rollers on a VAZ 2115 with 8 valves, you need to determine where the system itself is located. You can find it on the left side of the engine if you stand in front of the hood. It is located under a protective cover that prevents debris and dust from entering the system. For visual diagnostics, simply unscrew a couple of bolts and remove the upper part of the casing. However, if you are planning a more serious operation, such as replacing a belt or rollers, this will not be enough.

conclusions

Incorrect timing belt tension will lead to accelerated wear.

Accelerated wear of the timing belt due to incorrect tightening.

The engine on a VAZ-2114 does not bend the valve when the timing belt breaks, but still, there is a risk of getting up at night in a dark field in our big country. You will be lucky if the belt breaks at home or at work, and not on a long trip. To prevent this from happening, you need to set the timing belt correctly, as we wrote above!

Source

Purpose

It is important to note that such 8-valve engines were installed on all (almost) VAZ models, so this manual is relevant for cars with such an engine, if you have a 16-valve engine, then look, replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 21154 is described a little lower . So:

The timing belt is the most important element of the gas distribution mechanism; it is responsible for the timely injection of the fuel-air mixture and the emission of exhaust gases
Its breakage is dangerous, since damage to the valves and even pistons is possible, after which a major overhaul may be required with the replacement of the piston group or the cylinder head - the price of inattention
It is a rubber-metal belt with teeth on the inside; the teeth firmly engage the camshaft and crankshaft gears to ensure their synchronous operation.

Quick replacement of the timing belt on a VAZ 2114 with an 8-valve engine

Today I came to visit my old friend, barbecue and all that, and in between, a small maintenance on his freshly painted VAZ 2114, replacement of the timing belt, rollers and pump. This car has a standard eight-valve engine and this greatly simplifies the matter, since on this engine the procedure for replacing the timing belt takes 30 minutes. In our case, the timing belt was eating up a little on the inside and one of the oil pump bolts was to blame for this, we’ll talk about this at the end of the article.

On the VAZ 2114 engine there are 8 valves, if the timing belt breaks, the valve does not bend.

Under standard conditions, the timing belt replacement interval is 60 thousand kilometers or four years of operation, whichever comes first. The replacement interval can be increased to 80 thousand with periodic monitoring of the condition of the belt, roller and pump.

Why change the belt?

In the list of routine maintenance for the VAZ 2114, the manufacturer provides for replacing the timing belt every 60-75 thousand kilometers. However, given the quality of our spare parts, experienced car enthusiasts recommend replacing it after no more than 30-40 thousand km.

The belt should be visually inspected for visible mechanical damage at least once a month. If the slightest problem is detected, it must be replaced immediately.

If this is not done, the tension pulley may fail, as well as the water pump. In addition, there are cases when parts of the belt wrap around the generator pulley, which leads to blocking of its shaft.

But there is also good news. In VAZ 2114 cars with 8-valve engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, a broken belt does not threaten bending of the valves and damage to the cylinder head, which cannot be said about sixteen-valve engines, where a similar problem occurs in 90% of cases.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing belt

And one in front, remove the cover. Key for 10.

Remove the generator drive belt. Loosen the locking nut, set the wrench to 13 and unscrew the tension bolt, set the wrench to 10. Move the generator towards the cylinder block.

Alternator belt tensioning mechanism.

If you cannot move the generator, you need to loosen the fastening nut from below. The key is 17.

Generator mounting.

Set the top dead center

We ensure that the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley (hereinafter referred to as simply an asterisk) matches the mark on the metal casing.

Camshaft mark.

The mark on the crankshaft sprocket should also coincide with the low tide on the oil pump.

Crankshaft mark.

We unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, having previously locked the crankshaft. We block the rear wheels, engage fifth gear and insert a screwdriver into the ventilation hole of the brake disc below the caliper. 17mm head with extension and pipe as a lever.
Unscrew the nut securing the tension roller and remove it along with the old timing belt.

Fastening the tension roller.

Replacing the pump

Put one round of electrical tape around the camshaft, this will prevent you from losing a key!

Usually it gets very stuck, so a pry bar will help us here.

Lubricate the pump gasket with a thin layer of sealant and install the pump in place. We install the protective casing and tighten all the bolts evenly.

Pump mount.

Let's move on to replacement

When replacing, the tension roller must also be changed (in addition, it is recommended to replace the cooling pump every second belt replacement). Operating procedure:

Stop the car with the handbrake, then place chocks under the rear wheels.
Raise the front right side with a jack and unscrew the wheel.
Remove the wheel and protective mudguard
Using the “10” key, unscrew and remove the timing case

Removing the timing cover

To remove the generator pulley bolt (you can lock the flywheel by inserting a screwdriver or pry bar through the inspection window on the gearbox housing)
Remove the alternator belt, then the pulley
Unscrew and remove the timing belt protective cover
Align the engine according to the marks (one is located on the camshaft, and the second is on the flywheel)

Installing a new timing belt

We get a new timing kit, in our case from Gates.

Gates timing kit.

For a VAZ 2114 engine with 8 valves, it contains a toothed belt and a tension roller.

If anyone needs it, the article number on the box is as follows.

We check that all marks match. We install the tension roller in place, but do not tighten the nut. Next, install a new timing belt, put it first on the crankshaft sprocket, then on the camshaft sprocket, tension roller and pump. We make sure that the descending branch of the belt is tensioned.
Using a special wrench, turn the tension roller and tighten the timing belt. Tighten the nut.
The correct tension is considered to be one in which, with two fingers, we can turn the timing belt in the longest section by a maximum of 90 degrees.

A new timing belt has been installed.

We install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Fill with antifreeze.

This procedure is so simple that you can do it yourself even without a garage, just in the courtyard of your house.

In conclusion

Correct operation of the timing system is the key to reliable and proper operation of the engine. Therefore, you should be very careful both in caring for this system and the belt, and in protecting it. Many domestic car enthusiasts like to drive without a protective cover, which should not be done under any circumstances if you do not want to reduce the replacement cycle by half.

Afterwards it should be tensioned correctly. Let's talk about this. Timing belt tension VAZ 2110, 2111 (8 cl.) To adjust the belt tension, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the mark on the camshaft pulley moves down from the rear cover antenna by two teeth. Checking the timing belt tension means that the front branch of the belt is twisted 90° with the thumb and index finger of the hand with a small force of 1520 N (1.52.0 kgf). Here the questions arise: how to calculate the force? Everyone's finger strength is different, how to find the appropriate strength? It is necessary to tighten the timing belt so that at the longest section, try to turn it 90 degrees with 2 fingers; if you practically succeed, then the belt is tensioned normally. Try to tighten the timing belt and keep in mind that if the belt is too tight, you won’t be able to turn it 90 degrees with your fingers. if you didn't make it. the belt will dangle and hit the plastic casing (this should not happen). We tighten it until the sound disappears at idle and when accelerating. For this reason, if the timing belt is tensioned correctly, then when the casing is removed, its long part will fluctuate within 1cm. from the axis. Tensioning the timing belt VAZ 2112 (16 cells) Using a special wrench, tension the timing belt with a tension roller. If it is not there, then there is an option to tighten the timing belt using 2 nails and a screwdriver, which will be installed on them. There is also an option to transform a table fork into a suitable tool by breaking off 2.7 central teeth, and shortening and bending the last ones. Having turned the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation, we check the alignment of the installation marks. We check the tension of the toothed belt in the middle part of the branch between the camshaft pulleys. The belt deflection should be 5.4–0.2 mm. under a load of 100 N (10 kgf). And how to check the timing belt tension without a special tool? How do you figure out how much pressure you need to put on the timing belt? Method 1. Use 10kg. weights and ruler. Place a ruler on the belt between the pulleys, and a weight on the ruler. We pull so that the deflection from the plane is already 5mm. Method 2.4. Use steel scales. Attach the hook of the scale in the center of the belt between the pulleys and pull them upward until the reading on the scale is 10 kg. Then we measure the distance by which the timing belt has deviated (should be 5.4–0.2 mm). When, the same tool is used to tension the generator belt and nuts: Similarly with 8kl. motors: if you didn’t make it. the belt will dangle and hit the plastic casing.

Causes of toothed belt wear on VAZ 8 valve engines

Wear of the timing belt on the front side is the main cause of a worn pump, but sometimes it can also be the tension roller stud and, in very rare cases, the camshaft sprocket. To eliminate this problem, replace the worn part.
Wear on the rear side is much less common. The main reason is the bolt on the oil pump. Over time, the belt tension weakens a little and, vibrating, it begins to reach this bolt. It’s very easy to fix this problem; we replace the Torx sprocket bolt with a regular 10mm socket, its head is smaller and the timing belt is no longer missing. The photo shows wear from the belt.

16 valve engine

On sixteen valve engines, in contrast to eight valve engines, when the timing belt breaks, serious consequences occur:

Since a break or a belt slipping through a tooth (or several teeth) is almost one hundred percent likely to occur in pistons with valves
This definitely leads to bending of the latter, and therefore major repairs are not very cheap
That is why the instructions require checking the condition of the timing belt drive and replacing it in a timely manner.
You should not forget about the quality of domestic spare parts, so you should take this issue seriously
It is prescribed to check the condition of the belt every 15 thousand kilometers and replace it after 50 thousand or earlier, follow these rules

Diagram of the gas distribution of a 16-valve engine

To visually assess the condition of the belt, pry off the plug with a screwdriver, it is located on the front drive cover

Removal

Replacing the VAZ 21154 timing belt begins with removing it, for this:

Stop the car and put chocks under the rear wheels
Using the “10” head, unscrew the six bolts that secure the front cover and remove it

Removing the timing mechanism casing

Then remove the right wheel and behind it the plastic shield covering the engine compartment
Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction using the bolt that secures the generator drive pulley
In the flesh until the marks on the camshaft pulleys coincide with the marks on the rear timing case cover
On the engine flywheel, the mark should be opposite the mark on the slot in the clutch cover cover
Insert a screwdriver through the hole located on the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth to fix it, unscrew the generator drive pulley bolt
Remove the pulley
Then use a 17" wrench to loosen the tensioner pulley nut.

Use a wrench to loosen the drive tension by loosening the tensioner roller nut

Turn the roller and loosen the belt tension, remove its rear branch, starting with the toothed pulley on the exhaust camshaft, then with the tension roller, then with the pump pulley
After this, the belt is removed from the crankshaft and exhaust camshaft pulleys and from the support roller
The drive belt is installed in the same way, the sequence of putting it on is the reverse of taking it off.
We make sure that the alignment marks of the shafts match
By turning the tensioner roller, tighten the drive belt and fix the roller
After this, rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and check again that the alignment marks match
Replacement of VAZ 21154 timing belt drive is completed
The tension is checked by pressing your fingers in the middle part between the camshaft pulleys

That's all, no matter what type of engine you have, our article is useful in both cases, take care of the car, in addition to these procedures, follow the others prescribed in the manual, and additionally watch our video.

How to check and adjust the timing belt on a VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

It is recommended to check the timing belt every 15,000 km during the next maintenance.

To perform this work, you will need a timing belt tensioner.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the front timing belt cover.
Lift it vertically up and remove it from the engine.
We turn the crankshaft and visually check the condition of the belt. The crankshaft can be turned with a 17 or 19 wrench using the pulley bolt. Visually the belt should be clean. If the belt shows signs of wear, cracks, or delamination, it definitely needs to be replaced.
Try turning the belt 90 degrees with two fingers. You need to pull in the area between the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, applying a force of 15–20 N m (1.5–2.0 kgf m). If you can’t turn it, it means the belt is too tight. If the belt can be turned to a greater angle, it is loosely tensioned. Attention! The belt must be adjusted on a cold engine. An overtightened belt will shorten the life of the belt itself, the tension roller bearings and the coolant pump. Weak belt tension can cause the belt to jump over the camshaft teeth.
In order to check the relative position of the camshaft and crankshaft, you need to install the piston of the 1st cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke. For this:

a) It is necessary to remove the plug in the upper part of the clutch housing.
b)

In this window, use a screwdriver to turn the crankshaft by the teeth of the flywheel ring

until the mark on the camshaft pulley and the protrusion of the rear timing belt cover align.

In this case, the mark on the flywheel should align with the center of the scale.

If the relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft is disturbed, then turn the crankshaft until the mark aligns with the center of the scale. Loosen the belt tension and remove it from the camshaft pulley. Turn the camshaft until the mark on its pulley aligns with the protrusion on the rear cover. Without changing the relative position of the shafts, put the belt on the camshaft pulley and adjust the belt tension.

7. Use a 17 mm wrench to loosen the tension roller mounting nut.

8. By turning the roller with a special wrench, we adjust the belt tension and, holding the roller in this position, tighten the nut that secures it.

9. Check the belt tension (see above) and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment.

10. Finally tighten the roller fastening nut to a torque of 33.2–41.2

11. Reinstall the front belt cover and tighten its fastening bolts.

Installation process

The timing belt itself is a rubber product closed with teeth inward, which synchronizes the torque between the camshaft and crankshaft. Ignoring its wear will not lead to anything good, because in the best case, your engine will stall while driving, and in the worst case, the entire wheelbase will jam, which can lead to the most unpredictable incidents on the road.

The replacement and debugging itself is carried out in two stages, in the first stage the main repair and debugging work is carried out, and the second stage carries the function of monitoring the work done.

First stage

The assistant gets into the car and puts 5th gear in the gearbox, and at this time you remove the front belt protection.
Insert the ratchet into the place allocated for it and begin to turn the crankshaft, you need to do this until you see that the mark located on the camshaft has not moved to remove several teeth from the control antenna of the rear cover. (this action is necessary to reduce the degree of belt tension).
We dismantle the drive pulley on the crankshaft and return the mounting bolt to its place.
The assistant switches the gearbox to “neutral”.
Again, we begin to carefully turn the crankshaft until the mark on the VAZ 2114 flywheel is in the central position.

Second stage (control-final)

Before checking the timing marks on the VAZ 2114, you need to fix the pulley on the generator and tension the belt with a roller to the maximum.
Now we check all the matches, if nothing is wrong anywhere, then we install the protection back and clean the workplace.

Looking under the hood of your car, with knowledge of this information, you will understand that there is nothing difficult in this procedure, but its success is quite dependent on the skill of the performer. Therefore, if something doesn’t work out the first time, just repeat the operation, you may even need to do it twice. Don’t be discouraged, because after the difficult first time it will only take you a few minutes, like a seasoned professional.

How to check and adjust the timing belt on a VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

It is recommended to check the timing belt every 15,000 km during the next maintenance.

To perform this work, you will need a timing belt tensioner.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 3 bolts securing the front timing belt cover.
Lift it vertically up and remove it from the engine.
We turn the crankshaft and visually check the condition of the belt. The crankshaft can be turned with a 17 or 19 wrench using the pulley bolt. Visually the belt should be clean. If the belt shows signs of wear, cracks, or delamination, it definitely needs to be replaced.
Try turning the belt 90 degrees with two fingers. You need to pull in the area between the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, applying a force of 15–20 N m (1.5–2.0 kgf m). If you can’t turn it, it means the belt is too tight. If the belt can be turned to a greater angle, it is loosely tensioned. Attention! The belt must be adjusted on a cold engine. An overtightened belt will shorten the life of the belt itself, the tension roller bearings and the coolant pump. Weak belt tension can cause the belt to jump over the camshaft teeth.
In order to check the relative position of the camshaft and crankshaft, you need to install the piston of the 1st cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke. For this:

a) It is necessary to remove the plug in the upper part of the clutch housing.
b)

In this window, use a screwdriver to turn the crankshaft by the teeth of the flywheel ring until the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the protrusion of the rear timing belt cover. In this case, the mark on the flywheel should align with the center of the scale.

7. Use a 17 mm wrench to loosen the tension roller mounting nut. 8. By turning the roller with a special wrench, we adjust the belt tension and, holding the roller in this position, tighten the nut that secures it.

9. Check the belt tension (see above) and, if necessary, repeat the adjustment.

10. Finally tighten the roller fastening nut to a torque of 33.2–41.2

11. Reinstall the front belt cover and tighten its fastening bolts.

Video on the topic:

How to determine that the belt twisting force is 2 kgf?

I remembered that I read somewhere a long time ago that you can tighten the belt with a household dynamometer using a special key. I bought a key on the market for 50 rubles, but it turned out to be impossible to work with it. I had to bend it into an “G” shape, screw the sector in place and make recesses for the dynamometer hook. The length of the arm from the key pins to the point of application of the torque force is 80 mm.

Special key for adjusting the timing belt tension. The distance from the pins to the groove for the dynamometer hook is 80 mm. As it turned out later, the key can be used without an additional sector

And then everything is simple. We put the x17 key on the driven gear nut and, lightly tapping it with your hand, select the slack in the drive belt branch. Next, we insert a special key into the holes of the roller axis, engage the key rod with a dynamometer and create a force of 2.5...3.0 kgf. Holding the special wrench by the sector, tighten the roller nut. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not tighten the nut with a torque of more than 4.2 kgcm, otherwise the stud may bend and the belt will subsequently slip.

Before adjustment, it is necessary to select the slack of the pulling belt branch

The force on the dynamometer should be 2.5…3.0 kgf

Having removed the dynamometer and holding the key by the sector, tighten the roller nut

If you don't have a torque wrench, you can use the same dynamometer to control the force. I did just that, only I had to put a pipe on the key, otherwise the dynamometer scale was missing. There are no photos of this action, because there were not enough hands to hold the key with the pipe, the dynamometer and the camera.

I checked the quality of tension with the engine running: when revving, the radial runout of the pulling branch of the belt was 10...12 mm, which corresponds to the norm.

Yes, I forgot: before adjusting, I turned the loosened pin with pliers and a rag wrapped around the thread by almost 2 turns and tightened it; It's holding up for now.

Malfunctions in the fuel vapor recovery system Lada Kalina

Since the solenoid valve itself is not a complex device, it has few malfunctions as such - it may not open or close when necessary, or may freeze in a certain position. But the culprit of the breakdown may not only be Evap-Solenoid; the gasoline vapor recovery system does not work correctly for other reasons:

connecting pipes are pinched or clogged;
normal vacuum is not created in the system;
due to an open circuit, there is no voltage on the valve;
the carbon filter is completely clogged (which is rare);
The control unit malfunctions.

If the CPA is stuck in the open position and does not block the channel, the following defects may occur:

the fuel mixture becomes richer, causing “blackness” to appear on the electrodes of the spark plugs;
the engine begins to operate unstably, this is especially noticeable at idle;
gasoline consumption increases;
The throttle response of the internal combustion engine decreases.

When the EVAP channel is constantly blocked by the purge valve, excess vapor pressure is created in the gas tank, due to this:

there is a risk of fuel pump failure;
The fuel level sensor may fail.

It should be noted that purge occurs in a certain mode after starting the engine, the program is executed depending on the crankshaft speed, and the system does not work at idle. An impulse arrives at the CPA if:

the coolant has heated to a temperature of at least 75 degrees Celsius;
the throttle valve is open at least 4%;
the car is moving at a speed of more than 10 km/h (but this is not a necessary condition).

Problems in the electrical part of the EVAP are detected by the control unit, and the Check Engine warning lamp lights up on the instrument panel. The fault code can be determined using a special diagnostic scanner or a computer with a program installed; the most common errors in the vapor recovery system detected by the diagnostic device are P0441 and P0455.

Ignition system sensors and marks

For the ignition system to operate correctly, the computer needs to read the correct information from the sensors. Subsequently, this information will be processed in accordance with the fuel maps hardwired into the injector.

The main signal comes from the crankshaft sensor. This sensor shows what position the crankshaft is in at a given time and, based on it, calculates at what moment it is necessary to inject fuel, and at what moment this same fuel should be ignited, depending on the engine speed, which is also determined by this sensor.

1 – crankshaft drive disc; 2 – crankshaft position sensor; 3 – angle of rotation of the crankshaft; 4 – output signal of the crankshaft position sensor And this is what a typical signal received by the computer from the crankshaft sensor looks like

Pay attention to 270° - this is like the zero point, showing the computer that the engine has completed a revolution and a new cycle begins. This is achieved due to the absence of a tooth on the crankshaft drive sprocket.

When to tension the timing belt

The timing belt of the VAZ-2112 and other VAZ models is tensioned in the following cases:

Installing a new belt;
Loose belt;
“Slipping” of the belt with a violation of the timing adjustment;
Replacement of the tension roller and other timing drive mechanisms.

If the cause of the intervention is a broken or “slipping” belt, you must first ensure the integrity of the valves. A broken gas distribution mechanism (drive) leads to engine damage on 16-valve 1.5-liter power units. However, in cases of drive failure at high speeds, valves and CPGs are also destroyed on other engines.

They check the operation of the timing belt on the VAZ-2114 and other models equipped with 8-valve units by turning the camshaft manually. A working mechanism should turn with some effort. A faulty one, as a rule, cannot be affected.

During the procedure, it is necessary to check the compression in each of the cylinders. The easiest way to do this is to tightly cover the spark plug hole with paper. If there is pressure in the cylinder, the plug is knocked out of its seat at a certain stage of camshaft rotation. ” alt=””> A similar check on 16-valve engines is not recommended. The risk of damage to an initially good valve mechanism is too great. There are no grooves in the pistons of one and a half liter engines of this type. Therefore, valves that move down bend when they contact the piston surface.