How to tension a Lada Vesta alternator belt without air conditioning

  • Once this work is completed, all that remains is to tighten the belt and check the degree of tension.
    By rotating clockwise, the tension roller moves from the upper position to the lower position. Once this position is reached, the roller will lock into place, providing the required degree of tension. You can tighten the fastening nut.

    We remove the belt to replace it or during work related to replacing drive units, as well as when replacing the timing belt

    We place the car on a lift or inspection hole. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

    Remove the mudguard 1 (Figure 1) of the right front fender.

    Using a 10mm socket, unscrew thirteen bolts 1 (Figure 2) and remove the engine protection.

    If a manual transmission is installed then:

    — with a 13-point head, unscrew the two bolts 1 (Figure 3), and remove the clutch slave cylinder and hang it on the hook without disconnecting the hydraulic drive tubes 3.

    If the car does not have air conditioning then:

    — using a TorxE10 head, unscrew three bolts 1 (Figure 4), and remove bracket 2 for fastening the clutch cylinder (for cars with a manual transmission), remove starter 3 without disconnecting the terminal and connector of the wiring harnesses suitable for the starter, and hang it on a wire.

    We install a device for locking the flywheel into the holes for the starter mounting bolts on the gearbox.

    If the car is equipped with an air conditioner (with a tension roller for the accessory drive belt), then:

    — remove the tension roller plug, loosen nut 1, Figure 5, fastenings and move tension roller 2 counterclockwise to the upper position (use a 13mm socket and a TorxT55 socket).

    If the car does not have air conditioning then:

    — unscrew bolt 7 of the damper fastening, carefully remove washer 8 and damper 6 of the crankshaft (use a 17 socket).

    Installing the accessory drive belt

    For vehicles without air conditioning:

    Install the damper and washer onto the crankshaft and secure with a bolt. The tightening torque of the damper mounting bolt is 95…115 Nm (9.5…11.5 kgf.m) (replaceable head 17, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

    Install mounting tool 67.7834-9703 onto the damper pulley (tool 67.7834-9703 for installing the elastic accessory drive belt).

    Install the belt on the generator pulley and put it on the damper through tool 67.7834-9703.

    Rotating the damper by the head of the fastening bolt in the clockwise direction ¾ of a turn, put the belt on the grooves of the damper (ring key 17).

    Stop rotating the damper after releasing tool 67.7834-9703 from the belt and remove the tool from the damper pulley.

    Install the starter 3, Figure 4, and bracket 2 for fastening the clutch hydraulic cylinder (for vehicles with a manual transmission) and secure with three bolts 1. The bolt tightening torque is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head Torx E10 , extension cord, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

    For vehicles with manual transmission additionally

    Install cylinder 2, Figure 3, of the hydraulic clutch and secure with two bolts 1. The tightening torque of the bolts is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

    For vehicles without air conditioning

    Install mudguard 2, Figure 2, of the engine and tighten thirteen fastening bolts 1 (replaceable head 10, wrench and extension).

    For vehicles with air conditioning (with accessory drive belt tensioner pulley)

    Install belt 5, Figure 5, of the attachment drive in the following sequence:

    — crankshaft damper 6;

    — pulley 4 of the air conditioning compressor;

    Move tension roller 2 to the lower position in a clockwise direction and tighten nut 1 securing the tension roller. The tightening torque of the nut is 30...36 Nm (3.0...3.6 kgf.m) (used: - replaceable head 13, TorxT55 nozzle, wrench, torque wrench).

    Install the tension roller plug.

    Install the right front fender shield

    Install the right front wheel and connect the negative terminal of the battery.

  • Replacing the alternator belt on a Lada Vesta - checking, tensioning, replacing

    One of the problem areas in the electrical system of the domestic Lada Vesta car is the generator assembly together with the drive belt. The latter is generally a consumable component, the breakage of which causes undercharging of the battery and failure of some electrical appliances. It is quite possible to carry out repair work on your own if you choose original consumables and spare parts.

    What generators are installed on the Lada Vesta

    The main function of the generator is to provide electricity to all devices when the engine is running and charge the battery, leading to the restoration of its expended capacity. Without this assistant, the battery life is quickly wasted, so you should pay attention to the signals of the warning lamp, which warns of a current or upcoming malfunction.

    The automobile plant itself, located in Togliatti, does not manufacture generators for its vehicles, and these functions are assigned to third-party suppliers. Based on this, generators for Lada cars are supplied by manufacturers such as Bosch and Valeo. These products are sold under production article 8450006900. On the domestic market you can find other analogues that are installed by car enthusiasts during operation. The most famous of them is the StarVolt company.

    Generator design and functions

    A car generator is one of the auxiliary devices without which the operation of a vehicle is impossible. Its task is to provide sufficient electricity to all consumers on the car and charge the battery.

    Malfunctions lead to the fact that the battery is left without an assistant; on its own, it can only provide movement for a short distance. To avoid such situations, manufacturers install a battery charging indicator lamp that signals a breakdown.

    Generator belt. Photo source: https://www.drive2.ru/l/503533995397480550

    The generator is a mini power plant that produces three-phase alternating current. Then it is converted into a permanent one that powers the vehicle's electrical network. The device operates synchronously with the engine, driven by a poly-V-belt that transmits rotation from the crankshaft to the rotor. This generates electromotive force in the stator windings.

    To assemble such a device, more than 20 parts are required. Main nodes:

    • Rotor. It is an electromagnet whose winding is located around a rotating shaft. Contact between them is ensured by graphite brushes.
    • Stator. These are 3 fixed windings made of copper. They are wound on a magnetic core and connected to each other.
    • Relay regulator. Its function is to control the voltage at the output terminals at a level of 13.5 V. The relay has overload protection functions. More complex designs have a built-in temperature sensor, which provides a higher voltage supply in winter. At low temperatures, electricity consumption in a car increases. It is installed on the housing using a special brush holder, or inside the generator in one block along with the brushes.
    • Rectifier (diode bridge). Its functions include converting an alternating signal into direct current.
    • Frame. Made from light metals or their alloys to reduce weight. Since a running generator is subject to heat, the housing has many ventilation holes to ensure that the device is cooled by air currents.

    An additional impeller is provided, the blades of which rotate along with the rotor and provide more efficient cooling by increasing air flow.

    What belts are installed on the Lada Vesta

    The size of alternator straps on Lada Vesta may vary depending on the specific modification. There are different versions for cars equipped with and without air conditioning systems. So, for Vesta with air conditioning, modification 6РК1039 is used, and for those without such an option - 6РК778. Contitech and Gates companies are official suppliers for AvtoVAZ for the installation of alternator drive belts.

    The tension and support rollers deserve special attention. They provide the necessary level of tension so that the strap does not fly off, but allows the generator to produce the maximum possible charge for the on-board electrical network. If these parts are made with high quality, then they do not require adjustment for a long time.

    Refueling volumes

    As mentioned above, three different engines were installed on the Lada Vesta - 11189, 21129 and HR16DE-H4M. It was also equipped with different gearboxes - 2180, 2182 and JHQ. Based on this, some Vesta filling containers have different volumes, while others are the same for everyone.

    The following table will help you figure out how much of a particular technical fluid needs to be filled:

    Nominal filling volumes of Lada Vesta
    CapacitiesVolumes (l.)
    Engine lubrication system
    (including oil filter): 11189/21129 (stamped oil sump) 11189/21129 (cast oil sump) HR16DE-H4M
    3,2 (2,9) 4,4 (4,1) 4
    Cooling and heating system*
    : 11189/21129 HR16DE-H4M
    5,95 7,0
    Gearbox
    : Gearbox 2180/2182 JHQ
    2,25 3,34
    Hydraulic clutch and brake system0,559
    Hydraulic brake system (for cars with AMT)0,517
    Washer reservoir4,7
    Expansion tank (for cars with 211295.75 (max) 5.35 (min)
    Air conditioning system (freon R134 “A”)0,475 (± 20)

    *A mixture of coolants of different brands should not be allowed.

    In the same repair and maintenance manual for Lada West there are also the following volumes of coolant for the engine cooling system:

    • for 11189/21129 with pre-heater - 9.3 l., without heating - 8.7 l.;
    • for HR16DE-H4M with pre-heater – 7.6 l., without heating – 7.0 l.

    How to check the belt

    If the alternator belt whistles, then every owner of a Lada Vesta will decide on replacing it as soon as possible. However, it is not at all necessary to reach this point. According to the regulations, you can safely change the strap without checking it after 10-15 thousand kilometers traveled.

    However, if there is a need to check the condition, then first of all we lift the engine screen up to provide access to the unit. With your finger we look for the area in the middle between the generator pulley and the coolant pump. We press on it with a force of approximately 8.0 kgf. The deflection value should be around 12 mm from the original position. If necessary, tighten the belt or replace it with a new one.

    H4Mk engine

    One level higher in the xRay line is the H4Mk engine. It is developed by Nissan, and was widely used in the Lada Vesta. Like the previous version, it is installed in tandem with a French manual transmission. This decision had a positive effect on the dynamic qualities of the car. Previously, this engine was installed with the Lada xRay top package and is currently present only on anniversary versions of the car.

    • Working volume - 1598 cm3
    • Number of cylinders/valves - 4/16
    • Timing drive - chain
    • Cylinder diameter - 78 mm
    • Piston stroke - 83.6 mm
    • Power hp/kW - 110/81 at 6000 rpm
    • Torque - 156 Nm at 4000 rpm
    • Maximum speed - 171 kilometers per hour
    • Acceleration to the first hundred - 10.3 seconds
    • Fuel consumption - n/a

    The engine gave the crossover more serious dynamics, which is especially useful on the highway when overtaking. Acceleration to one hundred is the highest in the line, and is 10.3 seconds, but the maximum speed has increased slightly, to only 171 km/h. Fuel consumption at full speed with this power unit was 6.9 liters, which was the minimum figure in the entire line.

    Signs of belt and tensioner wear

    The drive and electric current generation system in the vehicle can function correctly for a long time, and the driver does not even have to look into the hood compartment. However, the driver should be aware of the approximate symptoms that may indicate a malfunction of the belt or its tensioner.

    The following signs may indicate a drive malfunction:

    • characteristic whistle when starting the engine. Indicates a faulty or overly worn belt. It is necessary to immediately check its surface for wear criteria. If almost none are identified, it is worth taking measures to check the degree of tension;
    • the appearance of transverse or longitudinal cracks on the surface, scuffs and burrs. If there are too many of them, then it’s time to change the belt drive;
    • abrasions on the surface of the roller can lead to uneven wear of the strap and, as a result, to its sagging in certain areas.

    Belt installation

    We carry out assembly in reverse order. After installing the damper, we use the special device 67.7834-9703 for easier installation of the belt. In extreme cases, you can get by with a regular tool, such as a screwdriver.

    For configurations without air conditioning, install the belt on the generator pulley (No. 3) and put it on the damper (No. 6) through the device. Rotating it by the head of the bolt clockwise 3/4 of a turn, we put the belt on the grooves of the damper.

    For configurations with air conditioning, install the belt first on the damper (No. 6), then on the air conditioning compressor pulley (No. 4), alternator pulley (No. 3) and tension roller (No. 2). Move the tension roller to the lower position by rotating it clockwise and tighten the nut (No. 1) of the roller.

    As practice shows, the process of replacing the belt and roller can be simplified.

    Required

    : Remove the wheel arch liner from the right front wheel.

    How to remove the belt

    :

    1. Remove the roller plug and pry it off with a sharp object.
    2. Loosen the roller with a 13mm wrench (counterclockwise).
    3. Release the belt tension by turning the T55 Torx bit counterclockwise.
    1. Remove the accessory drive belt.
    2. It won't be possible to make a video because... it rests on the spar.

    To make a video

    you will need to hang the engine:

    1. Remove the lower cross member.
    2. Place a jack under the engine.
    3. Remove the upper engine mount.

    After this, lower the engine so that the pin is below the spar and remove the roller:

    How to install the roller and tension the belt

    :

    1. Install the new roller onto the stud and secure with the nut.
    2. Install a new accessory drive belt.
    3. Insert the Torx T55 bit into the special hole and turn it clockwise until it stops (there are no intermediate positions).

    The process is also shown in the video:

    Let us remind you that in this article you can familiarize yourself with the VAZ 21129 engine in more detail.

    How to replace the alternator belt on Vesta

    To ensure that replacing the alternator belt on Vesta does not take a lot of time, effort and nerves, we will prepare the tools in advance. So, we will need a flat-blade and a Phillips screwdriver, a set of open-end wrenches, a balloon wrench, a 13-socket wrench, and 20-, 30-, and 55-size Torx keys.

    If all this is prepared, and the machine itself is already in the pit, you can proceed to the following step-by-step sequence of actions:

    1. If the car is not in the inspection hole, then use a jack to hang the right front wheel.
    2. After unscrewing the self-tapping screws, remove the wheel arch liner.

    3. Now you can remove the metal engine protection.

    4. If a manual transmission is installed on Vesta, then the hydraulic clutch cylinder is additionally removed, and then its mounting bracket is removed.

    5. Without touching the electrical wiring, unscrew and hang the starter. This will allow access to the flywheel.

    6. The crankshaft damper mounting bolt is unscrewed so that it can be disconnected.
    7. Remove the plastic plug from the roller using a screwdriver.

    8. Next, loosen the tension roller nut.

    9. Taking the Torx 55 key in your hands, rotate the roller until it reaches the top position, counterclockwise.

    10. You can remove the generator drive belt.
    11. Reassembly is carried out in the following sequence: first install the damper, then the air conditioning compressor, and then the generator and tension pulley.
    12. Once this work is completed, all that remains is to tighten the belt and check the degree of tension.

    Removing and installing the timing belt

    First, the car is prepared. Preparation includes:

    • removing the fender liner in the right wing;
    • removing the left terminal from the battery to de-energize the system;

    • lifting the front of the car with a jack and installing supports under the rear wheels so that the car does not go backwards and break the equipment or take the life of a person;
    • dismantling the protective screen under the engine;
    • loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt. An assistant will be required to press the brake for the procedure to be successful;
    • installing a second jack under the engine and a wooden board on top of the tool so as not to damage the engine when it is lowered onto the jack;
    • dismantling the auxiliary drive belt tension roller cover;
    • removal of engine support fastenings. Lowering the motor 70 mm from its original position.

    All that remains is to remove the roller and remove the belt. After opening access to the timing mechanism, the next step is to unscrew the five bolts to remove the cover that covers the timing belt.

    Steps to remove a worn timing belt:

    1. Unscrew the bolt and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.
    2. Unscrew the three screws that secure the lower protective screen.
    3. Engage fifth speed, rotating the front left wheel in the air, turn the crankshaft until its marks align with the marks on the protective casing.
    1. Secure the position with bushings and bolts.
    2. See if the marks on the crankshaft gear coincide with the rib of the pump housing that pumps oil.
    3. Loosen the tension roller bolt.
    4. Remove the old belt. Change not only the belt, but also the tension and intermediate rollers.
    5. Check the condition of the oil pump. If necessary, replace it too.

    Install a new belt and repeat all steps in reverse order. At this point, replacing the timing belt can be considered complete.

    How to replace the tension roller

    Experts recommend changing both the strap and the roller needed for tension at the same time. Such recommendations are also given by the manufacturer. On a Lada Vesta, you will have to hang the engine to remove it. Therefore, the first thing we must do is dismantle the alternator belt, and then proceed to install a new roller to replace the old one.

    So, the step-by-step algorithm of operations will consist of the following actions:

    1. We remove the lower cross member to make it possible to install a jack.
    2. We dismantle the upper support of the power unit.
    3. Using a jack, we will lower it closer to the ground until the pin is below the spar. This will free up the space required to access the video.
    4. Unscrew the fastening nut and remove the old roller.
    5. We install a new one and tighten the nut without final tightening.
    6. Using a jack, we lift the motor up to the reverse position so that it becomes possible to install the upper supports.
    7. Having removed the jack, we fix the cross member located below.
    8. We throw on the generator strap and give it tension.
    9. Tighten the fastening nut from the roller until it stops.

    Work on tensioning the belt drive or replacing it can be done on your own, since this does not require special qualifications. But it is best to trust the replacement of the generator to specialized specialists in the technical maintenance service. Anyone who has their own experience of performing such work or has questions after reading the review, please share them in the comments below.

    Source

    Instructions for replacing the timing belt on Vesta

    You can carry out the work of replacing the timing belt on your own, but this is labor-intensive work.

    Replacement requires the necessary technical equipment and experience in carrying out repair work. At the beginning of installation and adjustment of the belt drive, you should remove its casing on the engine by removing the 5 fastening screws. Remove the casing and remove the belt. Using a 17mm wrench, turn the crankshaft using the roller bolts so that the marks on the camshafts coincide with the marks on the plastic casing. Turn until the crankshaft pulley with mark F coincides with mark E. Using the same key, remove the crankshaft pulley and the limiter washer.

    The remaining part of the casing is unscrewed with a 5-point hexagon: 2 bolts on the bottom and 3 on top. Using a “15” wrench, unscrew the tension roller mounting bolt, after which it is dismantled in the same way as the idler roller. New rollers are put on in their place. Then comes the installation of a new belt instead of the old one. First you should make sure that the marks are still set correctly, then the belt is installed on the camshaft and pulled to the crankshaft with tension. The timing belt tensioner pulley starts it last. Use a snap ring puller to rotate the tension roller until the marks are compatible. Next comes the assembly.

    Removing the belt

    1. Remove the right fender liner by unscrewing the fastening screws. Raise the car to a height.

    2. For versions without air conditioning, remove the engine protection (on Vesta, XRAY).

    3. For configurations with a manual transmission, remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder (Figure 4-3, No. 2) by unscrewing two bolts (No. 1). Hang it by the technological hook without disconnecting the tubes (No. 3).

    4. For configurations without air conditioning, remove the bracket (Figure 4-4, No. 2) and the starter along with the wires by unscrewing three bolts (No. 1). Hang it on a hook. Lock the flywheel through the hole for the starter mounting bolts on the gearbox.

    5. For configurations with air conditioning, turn the tension roller (Fig. 4-5, No. 2) to the upper position counterclockwise, having first loosened the nut (No. 1).

    6. For configurations without air conditioning, remove the crankshaft damper (No. 6) by unscrewing the bolt (No. 7) and removing the washer (No. 8).

    7. Remove the attachment belt (No. 5).

    List of works during maintenance 1 (15,000 km or 1 year)

    1. Changing the engine oil. The oil filling volume in an engine equipped with a manual transmission is 4.4 liters, and in an engine with an AMT it is supposed to be filled in 3.2 liters. It is recommended to use ROSNEFT Maximum 5W-40 motor oil, catalog number 4 l. canisters - 4291, and price - 900 rubles. There is a more expensive option - MOBIL 3000 5W40 engine oil, which has a catalog number - 150013 (4 liter canister), but the price is already 1,540 rubles.
    2. Replacing the oil filter. The catalog number is 21050101200500, and the price is approximately 200 rubles.

    Checks during maintenance 1 and all subsequent ones:

    • crankcase ventilation system;
    • hoses and connections of the cooling system;
    • coolant;
    • exhaust system;
    • fuel lines and connections;
    • covers for joints of different angular velocities;
    • checking the technical condition of front suspension parts;
    • checking the technical condition of rear suspension parts;
    • tightening the threaded connections securing the chassis to the body;
    • condition of tires and air pressure in them;
    • wheel alignment angles;
    • steering gear;
    • checking the free play (play) of the steering wheel;
    • hydraulic brake pipelines and their connections;
    • pads, discs and drums of wheel brake mechanisms;
    • vacuum booster;
    • parking brake;
    • brake fluid;
    • checking the drive belt;
    • checking the timing belt;
    • accumulator battery;
    • spark plug;
    • headlight adjustment;
    • locks, hinges, hood latch, lubrication of body fittings;
    • cleaning drainage holes;

    Self-replacement of the Lada Vesta alternator belt

    Vehicle maintenance does not have to be carried out exclusively at the station. If you have certain knowledge, skills and tools, some operations can be carried out with your own hands. One of them is replacing the Lada Vesta alternator belt yourself, because this operation is not nearly as complicated as replacing the timing belt.

    Alternative way to replace the belt

    There is an alternative way to replace the belt, which does not require adjusting the valve timing and removing the tension roller. The drive mounted on the pulleys is cut lengthwise into 2 parts, and the outer section is removed. A new belt is then pulled onto the gears. After removing the remains of the old drive, the belt is tensioned to its original location. The procedure is used if the tension rollers are preserved; it is recommended to check the valve timing after installation.

    Replacing the timing belt on Vesta, equipped with a 1.8-liter VAZ-21179 engine, is complicated by the absence of a crankshaft locking mechanism and the use of a phase shifter on the intake valve drive shaft. To hold the camshaft gears, a special device is used, available at service stations. The template is mounted in slots made on the rear of the camshafts. To access the slot on the intake shaft, closed by the position sensor disc, you will need to remove the receiver and valve cover.

    If you are replacing it yourself, you will need to find the top dead center in cylinder 1 (by the positions of the pistons and the crankshaft pulley, the 20th tooth of which is located opposite the position sensor).

    A common problem on VAZ-21179 engines is the shift in valve timing due to the rotation of the gears relative to the camshafts. The defect occurs due to a weak fit and a design feature of the joint (no key is provided).

    In this case, the procedure for determining the correct position of the cams is carried out by comparing the faulty motor with a known-good unit from another machine. Since the procedure is labor-intensive, it is recommended to contact a service center that services Lada Vesta cars.

    Installation of a new part and adjustment

    Procedure for installing a new belt and adjusting tension:

    1. Install the tension roller in its original place, tighten the bolt by hand.
    2. The intermediate roller is removed along with the threaded bushing, which is installed simultaneously with the new part. It is recommended to apply an additional locking agent to the thread; the fastening bolt is tightened with a wrench.
    3. Throw the belt over the crankshaft pulley, and then the upper branch is thrown onto the camshaft gears. The side branch goes around the pump rotor gear and wraps around the tension roller. After installing the belt, check the correctness of the valve timing in accordance with the marks. If a discrepancy between the marks is noted, the shafts are turned in the direction of the minimum stroke until the teeth of the gears and the belt coincide.
    4. Pre-tension the belt by turning the roller with pliers or a special device. The bracket is rotated counterclockwise until the stops touch.
    5. Turn the roller clockwise until the cutout on the inner hub coincides with the rectangular notch located on the outer disk of the roller. After alignment, the bolt is finally tightened (the torque on the wrench is in the range from 30 to 36 N*m). Further tension adjustment occurs automatically.

    The final stage of replacement

    To check the correctness of the adjustment, you need to rotate the motor shaft 2 times and install the piston of cylinder 1 at the upper extreme point. In this case, the marks on the gears should coincide with the notches on the engine crankcase. If there is a shift in the marks on the crankshaft pulley, the belt is removed and the position is adjusted.

    For additional checking, it is necessary to apply a force of 10 kg on the branch between the crankshaft and camshaft gears. A correctly operating tensioner begins to rotate clockwise (the design includes a dial indicator).

    Examination

    To independently check the condition of the Lada Vesta alternator belt, you need to turn on the speed, and then begin to carefully push the car back, while simultaneously inspecting the component. Moreover, inspection is carried out not only of the external, but also of the internal side - from some angles it can also be partially inspected.

    Next, a touch test is carried out. In this case, replacement is necessary in the following cases:

    1. Cracks appeared on the inside (where the grooves are located);
    2. The belt is too dry;
    3. There is a loss of elasticity.

    In addition, if a whistle occurs, continuing to operate a sedan or station wagon with this element is not allowed by regulations - this means that the belt slips on the pulleys.

    The Lada Vesta generator belt must be checked periodically

    Body and interior

    The quality of the paintwork on the Lada XRAY is frankly not the best. And although “PUMA” was developed specifically for this car, it also does not shine with quality, although it is better than others...

    Another drawback is the XRAY’s poor interior ventilation. In wet weather, to combat glass fogging, it is not enough to simply open the window...

    We also recommend that you read

    Lada Xray owner reviews

    Also on the XRAY the door seals are unimportant. Not only do they “tann” in the cold. They also often break when opening. Take the trouble to treat the rubber bands with silicone grease at least once every 2-3 weeks, this will save you from the unpleasant effects of cold on the seals.

    At this stage of operation of the Lada XRAY, the owners and service centers did not find any more serious and critical faults. But not much time has passed. Keep an eye on the future fate of the Lada XRAY on our roads in our next articles.

    Where can I buy?

    The most convenient way to buy an alternator belt for a Lada Vesta is through the Internet if you don’t have a specialized store nearby in your city.

    IMPORTANT! For Lada Vesta with and without air conditioning, different belts are used. When purchasing, you should consider the equipment of your car.

    The most current offers are presented in the table.

    Online storevendor codeAir conditionerPrice, rub.)
    https://lada-vesta-shop.ru/shop/dvigatel/remen-generatora-avtovaz-8450006328-lada-vesta.html8450006328 / 6PK1039Eat1090
    https://autostol63.ru/vesta/standartnoe-vesta/remen-generatora-contitech-6pk1039-lada-vesta.html6PK1039Eat990
    https://avtomagnit.ru/category-18/category-36/product-17476.htm6PK778No987
    https://autostol63.ru/vesta/standartnoe-vesta/remen-generatora-contitech-6pk778elast-lada-vesta-bez-konditsionera.html6PK778ELASTNo740
    https://stovesta.ru/spareparts/item/15-vesta-sedan-engine/1737-remen-generatora-vesta-xray-1-6-i-1-8-s-2015-original508071100
    https://stovesta.ru/spareparts/item/15-vesta-sedan-engine/1559-remen-generatora-1038-mm-vesta-xray-1-6-i-1-8-s-2015-contitech506621050
    https://avtokrepeg.net/avtozapchasti/dvigatel/remni-grm-generatora/remen-generatora-6-1038-vesta-s-kondits8450006328Eat1000
    https://lada-vesta-shop.ru/shop/dvigatel/remen-generatora-lada-vesta-h-rei.html6PK920

    It is worth noting that the product description does not always indicate the vehicle’s equipment – ​​whether it is a version with air conditioning or not. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to clarify this point with the manager before placing an order.

    Removal and installation of the Lada Vesta car generator

    Technical characteristics of the generator TG 12C209 f. Valeo:

    Maximum output current (at 14 V and 6000 min-1), A 120

    Engine-generator gear ratio 2.4

    Generator type TG 12C209 f. "Valeo" alternating current, three-phase, with a built-in rectifier unit and voltage regulator, right-hand rotation (drive side), designed to operate as a source of electrical energy in parallel with the battery in the electrical system of a vehicle, designed for operation at ambient temperatures from - 40 to +45˚С and humidity up to 90% at a temperature of +27˚С.

    Removal

    For cars of all trim levels

    Place the vehicle in the workplace and apply the parking brake.

    Turn off the ignition, raise the hood, disconnect the earth wire terminal from the battery.

    Remove the right front wheel.

    Raise the car to a height convenient for doing the work.

    Remove the right front fender shield.

    Remove the engine splash guard.

    Remove belt 5, Figure 1, of the attachment drive.

    For vehicles with engine 21129 and air conditioning system

    Unscrew the three bolts 1, Figure 2, fastenings, remove the compressor 2 of the air conditioning system without violating the tightness of the system, and hang it on a technological hook (used: replaceable head 10, knob, technological hook).

    For cars of all trim levels

    Remove the protective cap, unscrew nut 1, Figure 3, fasteners and disconnect terminal 2 of the wiring harness from the generator 5 (use: replaceable head for 13, extension cord, wrench).

    Disconnect the 3 wire harness connector from the generator.

    Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the four bolts 1, Figure 4, fastenings and remove the generator 2.

    Installation

    For cars of all trim levels

    Install the generator 2, Figure 4, on the bracket 3 of the mounted units and secure with four bolts 1. The tightening torque of the generator mounting bolts is 21…27 Nm (2.1…2.7 kgf.m) (used: replaceable head 10, wrench, torque wrench ).

    Connect the harness block 3, Figure 3, of the wires to the generator.

    Connect terminal 2 of the wiring harness to generator 5 and screw in fastening nut 1.

    The tightening torque of the terminal fastening nut is 18…24 Nm (1.8…2.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, extension, wrench, torque wrench).

    Place the protective cap on the terminal fastening nut.

    For vehicles with engine 21129 and air conditioning system

    Install the compressor 2, Figure 2, of the air conditioning system on the bracket of the mounted units and secure with three bolts 1. The tightening torque of the compressor mounting bolts is 21…27 Nm (2.1…2.7 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10, knob, torque wrench) .

    For cars of all trim levels

    Install belt 5, Figure 1, for drive of mounted units.

    Install the engine splash guard.

    Install the right front fender shield.

    Install the right front wheel.

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=ePj7H0d_1Zk

    Sources

    • https://www.sto01.ru/lada-vesta.html
    • https://new-vesta.ru/remont-generatora-bosch-na-lada-vesta/
    • https://autoruk.ru/lada-vesta/elektrika-vesta/kak-sniat-generator-avtomobilia-lada-vesta

    Work progress

    Removing the fender liner

    First, you need to drive the car onto an overpass, jack it up and remove the front right wheel.

    Next, the fender liner is removed. To do this, using a wrench and a Torx T-20 bit, first unscrew 2 self-tapping screws, with which the locker is fixed to the bumper at the bottom, after which 2 more self-tapping screws are unscrewed, but along the edge of the wheel arch.

    Then, using a Torx T-30 bit, remove 2 screws that secure the locker to the subframe.

    Attaching the locker to the subframe

    The fender liner is fixed to the mudguard with 3 pistons, the clamps of which must be pryed and removed, and then the clips themselves must be removed.

    In the end, all that remains is to pull the locker back so that it does not interfere with work.

    Of course, there is another option to simply cut out a piece of the fender liner with a knife, so as not to waste time on removing and installing it, but it is still not recommended to damage the component.

    Features of belt removal

    The process of independently replacing the alternator belt on a Lada Vesta directly depends on the vehicle’s equipment – ​​the presence or absence of air conditioning, as well as on the type of gearbox.

    Equipment without air conditioning requires removal of the standard protection. To do this, 13 bolts are unscrewed using a wrench and a 10-point head.

    Attachment points for standard Lada Vesta protection

    Version with manual transmission - remove the clutch hydraulic cylinder. It is fixed with 2 bolts. When the cylinder is removed, it should be hung by the hook, but there is no need to disconnect the tube.

    Configurations without air conditioning - you need to remove the starter (along with the wiring), as well as the bracket, and then also hang it up. It is secured with 3 bolts. In addition, it is necessary to block the flywheel, which is done through the technical hole, which is intended for the starter mounting bolts on the transmission.

    Versions with “conduit” - first you need to loosen the nut, then turn the roller (tension) to the left until it is in the upper position.

    Configurations without “condya” - you will need to remove the crankshaft damper, for which you first unscrew the bolt and then remove the washer.

    We check the condition of the alternator belt ourselves

    To make sure that the belt is in good condition, you need to perform simple steps. Initially, fifth gear is engaged. On it, leaning on the front bumper, we try to push the car back. At the same time, we are trying to conduct a visual inspection of the belt along its entire length.

    There, according to the general rule, there should be no cracks, even the smallest ones, as well as ruptures and peelings that occur due to long-term use of rubber products.

    If such problems are found, the belt must be replaced. The timing belt is checked in the same way.

    It is also a good idea to check the external condition of the generator itself, since its quality raises questions. Don't forget to inspect the generator roller.

    Alternator belt replacement process

    • The length of this belt is 823 millimeters.
    • You can find it in the catalog by name or by your own unique number 1118-1041020-07.
    • The marking on the box will indicate the index 6РК 823.

    In addition, prepare in advance a sufficiently long screwdriver, as well as a “13” key. You may also need a knife to remove the old belt.

    1. To begin with, we remove the old belt, or what is left of it. As we have already said, this needs to be done every thirty thousand kilometers, even if the condition of the belt appears to be completely satisfactory. The belt can be removed with a simple knife.
    2. Now we find the bolt for the lower mounting of the generator. Try to unscrew it literally a few turns, which will help with the “13” key.
    3. Use the same key to unscrew the nut, after which the bolt for the upper mounting of the generator is completely pulled out.
    4. Now you need to be very careful. You must try to rotate the generator so that the upper eye exactly goes beyond the surface of the protrusion located on the bracket. We confidently press the generator to this bracket and fix it there with ordinary wire. It is best to tie it to the cylinder head cover mounting nut.
    5. Now carefully put the belt on the generator pulley, as well as on the surface part of the generator drive pulley.
    6. We engage fifth gear again, while simultaneously pressing the belt against the pulley. In this position, we try to push the car back until the belt is completely in place.
    7. Now you can untie the wire and start squeezing the generator with a screwdriver in the place where it came into contact with the bracket. Don't forget to insert the top bolt that mounts the generator.

    After this, all that remains is to take care of tightening the lower bolt and the nut of the upper generator mounting bolt. This will be enough to set everything in place.

    Alternative options

    Of course, many car enthusiasts are well aware of the consequences of not having a belt tensioner. The fact is that the belt, quite often, is overtightened, which leads to too rapid wear of the generator bearing. You can recognize this problem by a characteristic sound reminiscent of a howl. This design flaw can be eliminated by installing a generator belt tensioner. The most common option is to install a tensioner from the Lada Kalina.

    Installing the alternator belt tensioner

    The reason for abandoning the tensioner is simple. The manufacturer tried to save additional money by making the car one of the most affordable in the world. And this is typical only for the cheapest trim levels (standard and norm), which are supplied with eight-valve power units.

    To make it easier to control the belt tension, you can simply replace the generator bracket by pre-modifying it.

    In the standard bracket you will not find holes for the tensioner pulley. Instead, you can assemble a new bracket, which will be based on the base of the first generation Lada Kalina. As we already said, we will need:

    1. the bracket itself is from the specified car,
    2. tension roller,
    3. tensioner pulley bracket,
    4. as well as the alternator belt itself, all from the same Lada Kalina of the first generation.
    5. In addition, do not forget about purchasing a screw tensioner, the corresponding bushing and bolt.

    The price of this entire set reaches two thousand rubles, for which you can significantly improve the design of the car and extend the service life of individual parts.

    The replacement process itself is similar to replacing standard Lada Granta parts. However, if you do not have the appropriate technical knowledge, then you should contact a service center to assemble the structure.

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