Replacing a ball joint on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands: without a puller

Purpose and location of the ball joint

The driving wheels of a car must provide movement and the ability to turn in a certain direction. A number of requirements are also imposed on the location of the wheels: they must be level and securely fixed. This purpose is served by the suspension, one of the main parts of which is the ball joint. It is located in the steering knuckle system and provides it with the required level of mobility.

In VAZ-2110 cars it is easy to find ball joints - they are located immediately behind the front wheels.

This is what a ball joint looks like

Screw puller for removing ball pins

The main parts of the puller are made of steel strip with a cross-section of 18×3 mm and a total length of 460 mm. A round rod with a diameter of 18 mm is also suitable, but it needs to be modified: parallel edges with a distance of 13 mm between them should be milled or filed on opposite sides. To make a puller, you will need, in addition to the usual tools (a hacksaw, files, pliers, etc.), a grinder and a welding machine.

The design of the puller is simple and clear from the drawing and photographs.

The bar (upper part) is welded from two strips with a cross-section of 18×13 mm (although you can choose one of the same dimensions). The length of each strip is 95 mm. In the strip, almost in the center, there is a threaded through hole M12, and at the end there is a groove cut out 20 mm long, 13 mm wide and 2 mm deep for a fixing screw M12x55 (so that the strips do not rotate relative to each other). The wedge fork (lower part) is welded from three strips: two strips 95 mm long at the edges, in the middle there is a strip 55 mm long. On the workpieces at the welding points, we first remove a 3x45° chamfer along the entire length. Welds should be tapped and cleaned.

From the bottom of the front side of the lower fork we make a bevel, getting a one-sided wedge. Again, almost in the center, as in the bar, we make a through threaded hole M12, and at the end - M10 - for a fixing screw M 10x55.

And the last part is a sleeve 40 mm long with an internal and external diameter of 13 and 18 mm, respectively. The bushing can be replaced with a set of M14 nuts.

Causes of malfunction

During driving, the ball joint is subjected to heavy loads. It accounts for the bulk of the vehicle's weight. Wear will be especially rapid when driving for a long time on uneven surfaces.

The most common failure is wear of the contacting components. During operation, the gap between the finger and the body constantly expands. In normal condition, the pin should simply rotate, but when worn, it begins to move from side to side. If the problem is not solved, then after some time the support may fall out of the body, the support will no longer hold the wheel and the bottom of the car will fall onto the asphalt.

Need I say what consequences this will lead to at high speed?

If you haven't replaced your ball joint in a while, use extreme caution when making sharp turns or driving over obstacles. However, even a new support can suddenly fall out. This risk arises if a fast-moving car hits a hole with its wheel. The hinge instantly experiences a heavy load and literally breaks out of its socket.

Remember - the support must be inspected periodically. If water gets under the protective cover, corrosion will begin. Dirt causes abrasive wear. In combination with dynamic loads, this leads to serious damage.

Diagram of a ball joint for VAZ cars

Choice

When choosing a new ball joint (BJ) for replacement, focus on several basic criteria.

Selection criterion

Peculiarities

Manufacturer

Today there are a lot of manufacturers of ball joints. But not all of them produce truly high-quality parts. That’s why car owners have identified certain companies for themselves.

For owners of the VAZ 2109, it is worth paying attention to the manufacturing company Trek.

Fakes

A loud, well-known name of the ball joint manufacturer is not a guarantee of quality. There are a lot of fakes on the market now.

To find the original, visit the official websites of trusted companies, learn about the features of the original packaging, the nuances of protection that allow you to distinguish fakes

Frame

There should be no signs of damage, wear or defects on the ball body. High-quality SHOs are always welded from two elements

Finger

If you notice that the ball joint pin is painted black, there is nothing good about it. A high-quality finger is also black, but it gets this color as a result of hardening the metal under high temperature. Also try rotating your finger. If you managed to do this without a knob, this is a low quality product.

Equipment

Responsible manufacturers, in addition to the SHO itself, complete the parts with nuts, bolts and boot

Anther

Make sure there is no damage, signs of wear, or other defects.

Bolts

The mounting bolts must be hardened. If the bolt is yellow, its quality will most likely be terrible.

screw

Must have a Teflon insert or cotter pin. Plus look into your finger - there should be a through hole

Lubrication

Often the inside of the ball joint is lubricated at the factory, but practice shows that this amount of lubricant is not enough, so when replacing you must have a little more lubricant on hand

Brand new set

Diagnostics

The easiest way to identify the problem is to go to a car service center. If you do not have this opportunity or just want to save money, carry out diagnostic procedures yourself. To do this, you will need an inspection hole or a lift, as well as a source of intense lighting.

1. Rock the car and listen. Determine where the knocking is coming from. If it comes from the wheels, the supports are badly worn.
2. Press the brake pedal all the way to avoid bearing play. Rock the wheel with your hands, holding it at the top and bottom points. If there is play, there is a gap between the support and the body, which means the product needs to be changed.
3. In VAZ cars of the classic series, the check is carried out through the inspection hole. It is located in the lower support. For diagnostics, you will need a caliper or depth gauge to measure the distance between the outer part of the housing and the end of the support pin. The indicator should not exceed 11.8 mm. This method only works if you have not replaced the ball joint before.
4. To check the play of the upper product you will need a play meter with an indicator. The permissible value is no more than 0.8 mm.
5. Diagnostics without tools is possible, but you will need an assistant. Place your palm on the support body, touching the body and finger at the same time. The second person is rocking the wheel at this time. If there is play, you will feel it.

Signs of wear on the ball joint

Examination

Since the ball joint is constantly under load (the weight of the car, pressure from the anti-roll bar and the front arm), to check the condition we will need to unload the car wheel, that is, hang it. Then we take the wheel with both hands by the top and bottom and try to swing it in opposite directions.

Let's listen to the knock

Not every knock indicates that the ball joint needs to be replaced. You should call an assistant and ask him to press the brake pedal - if the knocking noise disappears, it means that the play belongs to a worn wheel bearing.

Then we take a pry bar, insert it between the lever and the longitudinal rod - swing the lever in a vertical plane, listen to the knock, or put your free hand on the support cup and try to record small impacts.

Fix the gap between the finger and the liner

How to choose the right part

There are two types of such products: filled and with cermet bearings.

Filled options are best suited for front-wheel drive VAZ cars. They withstand heavy compressive loads. Metal-ceramic products are installed on the rear wheels and are characterized by high tensile strength.

The most popular manufacturers of supports for domestic cars are Za Rulem, Kedr, Trek and BelMag. HOLA, HI-DRIVE, Moog, FENOX and some other companies deserve trust.

Fork puller

For those who don’t have money, machines, or even good metalworking skills, I suggest making a very simple and reliable puller yourself.

Material: steel rod with a diameter of 18 mm. The puller is welded from three parts in the form of a fork. For manufacturing you will need a grinder (although you can get by with a hand hacksaw for metal and a large bastard file) and a welding machine (if you don’t have one, you can turn to a welder even of low qualifications).

The operating principle of the puller is very simple. First, unscrew the nut from the ball pin. We insert the puller fork between the lever and the rod as far as possible (all the way) and hit the pin with a hammer. If necessary, repeat the blow until the rod of the ball pin comes out of the conical socket of the lever.

Replacement process

When is a puller required?

During operation of a car, support parts are exposed to corrosion, friction and high temperatures. As a result, the components are tightly “glued” to one another. This happens especially often with a cone and a socket.

Previously, the problem was solved simply - with a sledgehammer and a gas torch. It is not recommended to use this method, as the steering rods can easily be damaged. A ball joint remover will help you avoid problems. It is recommended to have it on the farm - this will greatly simplify the task.

Ball joint remover in working order

Required Tools

• key to 17;
• key to 19;
• puller;
• hammer;
• penetrating lubricant;
• jack.

This bolt must be unscrewed first.

Let's get started

1. Raise the front of the car with a jack.
2. We remove the wheel, behind which the required ball joint is located.
3. Apply penetrating lubricant to the fastening bolts and nuts.
4. Unscrew the lower nut securing the pin using a 19mm wrench.
5. We install the puller and use it to squeeze out the ball pin.
6. We unscrew the two bolts that secure the ball joint. One of them is in front, the other is on the opposite side.
7. We press the lever and remove the support.
8. Lubricate the ball pin and put on the boot if you plan to install the same support, or install a new product.
9. Align the hole in the support with the thread, screw in the bolts. We repeat the steps performed during dismantling in reverse order. The work is completed.

replacing balls on a grant.