Replacing ball joints
The ball joints started knocking about 7 tkm ago, I was not able to diagnose the ball play myself, no matter how hard I tried (maybe someone can tell me the right way), but there was nothing else to knock about. TRW balls (part number JBJ721) were purchased as a replacement. They need to be stuffed with special stuff. lubricant for ball and steering. The good old ShRB-4 is ideal for this; in addition to lubrication, it envelops the ball and prevents water and dirt from entering the joint. Due to the lack of ShRB-4 in our area, another lubricant was used (pictured below).
Now let's see how things are with the old ball joints. We remove the lever.
Instead of the upper sealing ring of the boot, I wanted to install a rubber one for better compression (as petrovich35 advises to do; by the way, he describes in detail how to properly maintain the suspension), but I couldn’t find a suitable size.
That's it, we install the lever in its place, I coated all the threads and connections with graphite grease to make it easier to disassemble next time. Do not forget that the final tightening of the two lever bolts in the subframe must occur while the car is on its wheels.
Inspection of steering tips
I changed the steering tips a year and 10 tkm ago, I installed Sasic tips. Like the ball ones, they failed due to dirt and water that passed through the bad boot seal on top. Now I decided to check and replace the lubricant in them, because... unknowingly put Litol-24 in them.
Replacing steering rack boots
I didn’t like the steering rack boots last year when replacing the steering tips. They started to crack. I decided not to joke about it; the power steering rack requires special attention to the anthers. I bought Sasic anthers (item 4006224). It wasn't easy to pull them on, but it was possible.
Inspection of caliper guide pins
8 months and 8 tkm ago I filled the guides with Slipkote grease. I decided to see how things were going there and took it apart on one side. And everything is fine there, no water, no dirt, the lubricant has not thickened. Just a little darker from work. I put everything back together and didn’t touch anything. On the other hand, I didn’t even climb there.
1. Ball joints and steering joints fail mainly due to water and dirt entering through the upper boot seal. And also due to the absence or small amount of lubricant.
2. It is necessary to apply specialized lubricant under the boots and, if possible, improve the seal of the boot on top.
3. Ball and tips with a “skirt” on the pin for the top seal are preferable. If anyone knows the article numbers for such spare parts for our cars, please tell me.
I wish you a soft suspension, a dry and smooth road!
Added 06/15/2017
I applied vibration insulation to the front wheel arch liners and noticed that after 1.5 months the VAZ boot on the steering tip was all cracked, so I decided to replace it with a damaged but sealed original one. The blue grease does not cover the ball: a little water was found right on the ball. There was no opportunity to take a photo.
Price tag: 1,500 ₽ Mileage: 71000 km
Replacing the steering rack boot of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands
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Somehow your service people are completely crazy - 800 rubles. for replacing the boot! Yes, then it’s better to add a little and buy a new rack
