Installation of steering rack Lada Priora
Before installation, check that the rail is installed in the middle position.
To do this, using sliding pliers, use the flat on the gear shaft to rotate the shaft in any direction until it stops, then turn the shaft in the opposite direction two full turns and turn the shaft so that the flat on the shaft is located vertically on the right side along the direction of the car. Otherwise, the installation of the rack is carried out in the reverse order. The steering rack of the Lada Priora is the same as the rack of the Kalina or VAZ 2110-2112 of the new model and has a catalog number: 11183-3400010 (rasp inside 21100-3401068). Price approximately 3500 rub. The Priora steering rack with power steering is no different from the usual one, but the Priora steering rack with power steering has a different catalog number (see interchangeability of VAZ steering racks).
Repair kit
In a Priora with an EUR, a rack from Kalina was installed with catalog number 11183-3400010 20. Therefore, the repair kit must be purchased specifically from Kalina.
Steering rack number
The repair kit includes a large number of parts necessary for repairs.
The price of a new rack starts from 5,000 rubles and higher, depending on the manufacturer, but new does not mean good, and the cost of a repair kit varies from 500 to 1,000 rubles, which is almost 10 times cheaper than a new rack.
Airbag installation
Installation is carried out in reverse order. While working, stay outside the pillow deployment area. When you first turn on the ignition, stand outside the vehicle and turn on the ignition with your hand under the steering column.
Have you experienced a knocking sound in your steering? Let's solve this problem together.
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Story
: (Can be skipped). The steering rack was repaired, with removal and partial disassembly (without removing the steering tips, or as they are called “steering rods”). So, after installing the rack back, in order to get the bolt into the slots of the steering wheel with the rack, I had to turn the latter by 30 degrees, which ultimately resulted in an uneven position of the steering wheel.
In fact:
The steering wheel is not level relative to the level position of the wheels. Correction options:1.
Rearranging the steering rack by pulling out the steering wheel mounting with the steering rack from the splines. (I advise you to do this only if you need to re-assemble the rail). Time costs: 2 days .2.
Perform wheel alignment and tell people to set the steering wheel straight. Cost: 1 hour.
1000 rubles 3. Turn the steering wheel 30 degrees.
Costs: 1 hour, +1 neighbor.
I made decision No. 3 and after that go to the alignment. Does anyone think he did the right thing? I’ll add that the car was re-shoeed with summer wheels that were balanced.
Tools:
socket wrench (head) “24”, screwdriver with a flat blade, hex key “5”. Work:
Using the instructions “Removing and installing the steering wheel of Lada Priora, VAZ 2170, VAZ 2171, VAZ 2172” we do this:
1. Take a screwdriver with a 5 mm hex head. We insert it into the hole in the airbag mounting in the steering wheel. Unscrew the 2 bolts (They cannot be removed from the passes).
2. As soon as the bolts are unscrewed, the cushion will move slightly relative to the steering wheel.
3. Carefully turn the pillow sideways. Inspect the connector fastening.
4. Pry up the green clamp of the control wire block (which is in the center).5. Now we pull out the entire connector from the mounting groove.6. The pillow is removed and put aside.
Signs of play in slats
When driving over small irregularities such as a gravel road, shocks and knocks in the suspension are clearly audible and are transmitted to the steering wheel. These signs will not always refer to play in the rack. Similar impacts to the steering wheel can occur due to broken steering ends or a broken crosspiece of the steering mechanism. Before you begin repairing the rack, you must exclude the tips and steering cross from suspicion.
Signs:
- Impacts to the steering wheel when driving over bumps
- Creaking sound when turning the steering wheel
- Biting the steering wheel in different positions
- The steering wheel does not return to zero position
Checking for play
Checking for play is done by rocking the swing arms up and down. To do this, we find the steering rods under the hood and pull each of them up and down; there should be no play or knocking. If any, then the rack should be maintained.
How to tighten the steering rack on a Priora
Lada Priora is a Russian-made car that is highly popular among our compatriots due to its low price and attractive appearance. However, even despite this, the Lada Priora has one vulnerability associated with the poor quality of the road surface - the steering rack or, in the language of specialists, the “power steering/power steering gearbox”. Fortunately, you can tighten it with your own hands.
When does the steering rack need to be tightened on a Priora?
The steering rack is a vulnerable point for Lada Priora
The first sign indicating the need to adjust the rack is the appearance of a knocking sound when driving over small uneven surfaces. The knocking will be felt especially clearly when driving on country roads. In this case, the driver will feel shocks and vibrations on the steering wheel, which will also be transmitted to the entire car body.
In addition, if the steering wheel adjustment nut is loosened when driving on the highway, the car will “float” a little, and additional steering will be required from the driver, which will also immediately become noticeable.
Experts also say that a tightening is necessary if the driver begins to notice the appearance of a clearly audible crunching sound in the area of the steering column, as well as an increase in the amplitude of the steering wheel rotation.
When tightening doesn’t help and the mechanism needs to be changed
It’s worth thinking about replacing the rack when tightening it does not in any way affect the car’s behavior on the road, and also does not help get rid of the unpleasant knocking noise. A failed steering rack will cause significant play in the steering wheel. Moreover, it may begin to jam (this happens extremely rarely, but similar cases are known). If the rack begins to jam, then it is better to stop using the car, as this can lead to the most dire consequences.
You cannot do without a replacement even if after tightening it you managed to get rid of knocks and vibrations, but they reappeared later.
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What is needed for work and how to tighten the steering
To tighten the steering rack you will need special wrenches
To perform the tightening you will need the following tools:
- Slotted screwdriver (in simple terms, a “flat” screwdriver);
- Wrench 13;
- A special 17mm wrench designed to adjust the steering rack.
To make the work more comfortable and faster, it is recommended to drive the car into a special inspection hole or overpass, and also use an assistant, whose role even a child can handle.
The lower rack fastening nut is not easy to unscrew
To get to the rail, you should perform a number of simple steps:
- Disconnect the battery terminals and dismantle it;
- Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the battery stand, and then remove it;
- Directly under the steering rack, using a slotted screwdriver, you need to pull out the small plug of the adjustment system.
After this, you will have access to the nut responsible for adjusting the thermal gap in the rail.
Next, you need to put your hand under the steering rack and try to put the rack wrench on the nut. It is necessary to tighten the nut clockwise, but since the rack itself is located upside down, from the outside it may seem that the nut must be tightened counterclockwise. Experts recommend tightening the nut no more than 25–30 degrees at a time, after which you should try to rotate the steering wheel, which should turn without jerking or biting.
It is also necessary to listen to the sounds coming from the steering wheel - if there are no knocks when turning the steering wheel, and there are no other noises, then the rack is tightened correctly, and you can put the battery and rubber plug in their place.
The nuances of working on a car with EUR and power steering
According to experienced auto mechanics, the process of tightening the steering rack on cars with electric steering and power steering is practically no different, so this guide can be called universal.
: About anti-corrosion treatment of cars
It is worth noting that the complete replacement process is also identical in the case of electric steering and power steering, with the exception of one point - in cars with power steering, before replacing the rack, it is necessary to drain the fluid from the power steering tank, and in cars with electric steering, remove the terminals from the battery.
Tips for use
A complete replacement and repair is a series of actions, for the implementation of which you need to have not only special knowledge, but also a considerable amount of free time, so if the car owner does not have either the first or the second, it is preferable to go to the nearest service station.
It is better to entrust steering rack repair to service station specialists
At the same time, in order not to become their regular guest, you should know some secrets for operating the steering rack, which can significantly extend its service life.
- We strongly do not recommend “jumping” your car on curbs, or driving at high speed on rails, since each such trip causes cracks to appear on the rack itself, as well as deformation of the shaft that is part of the steering mechanism.
- It is not recommended to frequently turn the steering wheel all the way. Of course, in this case it will be very difficult to demonstrate your maneuvering capabilities, but this will significantly increase the life of one of the most important parts of the machine.
- Carefully monitor the condition of the protective anthers, which must maintain their tightness. Replacing anthers is several times cheaper than replacing the entire rack.
- It is also worth monitoring the level and condition of the hydraulic fluid, since its decrease or change in color is associated with problems in the vehicle’s hydraulic system, which can result in rack failure.
From time to time you need to undergo a full maintenance, which will allow you to eliminate faults in advance, which can cause irreversible consequences, injury to yourself, your loved ones and other road users. And also, if problems are detected in the operation of the car, it is better not to take risks and go to the nearest car service center as quickly as possible.
Briefly about the mechanism
The element is a cylindrical body containing the following parts:
- the gear rack itself, moving inside the bushings;
- drive shaft with helical gear, rotating on 2 bearings (connected to the steering column);
- 2 rods connected to the ends of the rack and pinion mechanism and the steering knuckles of the hubs;
- a system of stops and springs that limit the travel of the rack and select the backlash of the gear transmission;
- rubber covers (anthers) in the form of round “accordions” that protect the mechanism crankcase from dirt;
- the element body is filled with liquid lubricant.
This is the design of a conventional mechanical and so-called electric rack, operating in conjunction with an electric power steering (EPS). If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster (power steering), then the design of the mechanism is supplemented with cylinders and pistons that help move the gear bar in one direction or another.
The element works on a simple principle: when the steering wheel rotates, the drive shaft moves the rack through a gear in the required direction. The ends of the part connected to the rods cause the front wheels to turn. The power steering or electric power steering reacts to the movement of the steering wheel and “pushes” the rack and pinion mechanism in the desired direction, relieving physical stress from the driver.
Lift
If knocking is detected in the steering wheel, it can be tightened, but tightening will be effective only if there is knocking from the worm gear. If the knocking noise comes from a broken plastic bushing, then tightening is useless.
As is known from practice, the worm mechanism is quite reliable and is very rarely the culprit of knocking. Most often the bushing is to blame.
You can determine the culprit of the knock by pulling the steering rods one by one.
- If there is a knocking sound when applying forces to the right link, then the bushing is to blame.
- If there is a knocking sound when you apply force to the left linkage, then the worm gear is to blame.
In the first case, a lift is not advisable. Since the tightening nut only tightens the worm mechanism. To eliminate the knocking noise, it is necessary to remove the steering rack from the car and have it repaired.
Video
This video shows how to repair the steering mechanism on Kalina.
Knock in Kalina steering rack. How to remove.
Installation of Kalina steering rack.
Repair of the steering column gearbox and the RR itself on Priora, Kalina, Grant.
How to install a steering rack from Kalina 2 to Kalina 1.
Steering rack for Lada Kalina Sport with a gear ratio of 3.1 instead of 4.02.
Do-it-yourself repair of the steering rack, but not Kalina, but Daevoo Sens / Daewoo Sens.
Kalina control rack - VAZ 11183 Kalina rack repair
Have you ever had a chance to monitor knocks and noises from the side? Probably it happened. They changed the control tips, changed the ball tips, even changed the springs with support bearings, but does the knocking continue? It's time to tug, make sure there is free play and start sorting out the rack. In this article I will talk about repairing the VAZ 11183 rack, but the development is identical to all other VAZ front-wheel drive racks.
The most interesting thing is that these motherfuckers from AvtoVAZ do not fundamentally change anything except the gearbox housing, I bought a repair kit 2110-2112, the rack is listed in catalogs as 2110, but the splined part is longer than 2110, and the gearbox is slightly different, so just change Unfortunately, 11183 for 2110 will not work, although 2110 costs 2500 in my town, and 11183 5500 costs 6000 rubles. The difference per pocket is very noticeable.
Well, it doesn’t fit and doesn’t fit, so we give the engineers a hard time and start disassembling it. Unfortunately, there won’t be a photo for the article, because I was up to my elbows in mud and didn’t want to wash myself for the sake of pictures, but I’ll try to describe everything carefully.
Removing the steering mechanism.
1. For convenience of work in the future, and so as not to climb into the interior with stains, unscrew the bolt securing the splined connection from inside the cabin (you will see it near the floor of the control shaft).
2. We lift the car on a lift, throw it down, and knock out the control tips from the steering knuckles.
Steering rack removal and repair
Removal work must be carried out with the necessary tools. Such as:
- Ratchet;
- Head at “13”, “15”, “17”;
- Key to "14";
- Hexagon at "6";
- Screwdriver "-";
- Hammer;
- The beard is blunt;
- Wrench for tightening the steering rack;
- Steering wheel end remover;
- Mount;
- WD-40 lubricant;
- Lubricant "Litol - 24";
- Steering rack repair kit;
Steering wheel removal process
We align the steering wheel exactly in the center.
Raise the left side of the car with a jack
We unscrew and unscrew the steering end nuts, then use a puller to squeeze them out of the strut bipod.
We unscrew the steering cardan in the car with a head on “13”, and forget the screwdriver into the slot of the cardan without damaging the splines. This is necessary for its easy removal from the rack splines.
Remove the steel washer retainer from the tie rod bolts and unscrew the left steering arm from the rack and pull it out into the left window of the tie rods
Unscrew the steering rack mounting brackets with a head on “13”
Using a pry bar, move the rack to the side and remove it into the left window of the steering rods
The withdrawal process is completed
The process of disassembling the rack
We unscrew the steering rods with a head at “15”
We remove the anthers by biting off the plastic clamps with side cutters. We pull out the central steering boot to the right side without damaging it.
We remove the “binoculars” from the rasp.
Place a mark as shown in the picture and unscrew the nut securing the rack pipe using a punch and a hammer
We take out the pipe
We unscrew the steering tightening nut using a special wrench (don’t be afraid to turn it very tightly), take out the rubber ring and the pressure piston.
To remove the pressure piston, you need to hit the back of the rack and the piston will fall out.
We take out the rasp
We unscrew the two bolts with a hexagon “6” and carefully remove the “worm” cover without damaging the oil seal.
We clamp the worm shaft into the yew through a block and remove it by hitting the body of the rack
Next, remove the old plastic sleeve from the pipe using a screwdriver
The rail is disassembled, we proceed to the assembly process using new parts
Assembly
We install rubber rings on the bushing and insert it into the rack pipe
We wash the worm shaft from the old grease, lubricate it with new and insert it into place, put a plastic bearing on it.
Place a disc spring into the worm cover, and then a thrust washer on top. Lubricate well and close the lid.
We lubricate the rasp and insert it into the worm mechanism, and then insert the pipe into the mechanism body and tighten the nut, aligning the previously placed marks.
Centering the steering rack
When assembling the steering wheel, it is necessary to follow a certain rule, which in the future will not lead to the rearrangement of the steering wheel on the splines.
When the rasp is placed in the rack body, it is necessary to set it to “zero”, that is, the position in which the steering wheel will stand exactly in the center. To do this, you need to measure 235 mm from the right end of the case and put a mark with a marker. This will be “zero”. Next, you need to align the center of the rasp with this mark. The center of the rasp will be the recess under. We combine this notch with the previously installed mark.
It should also be noted that when combining these marks, the worm shaft should face the flat to the right side at an angle of 90 degrees to the rack body.
To combine all these parameters, you need to rotate the worm shaft with a key at “14” until all the parameters are combined.
Attention: the rack pressure piston should not be installed when the marks are aligned. After the marks have been set, we continue assembling
After the marks have been set, we continue assembling
We install the pressure piston with the cuff on it into the “worm” body. We insert the cuff into the body, then the pressure spring, the nut and tighten it with a little force.
1 - thrust nut, 2 - thrust piston, 3 - collar, 4 - needle bearing, 5 - left side of the rack housing.
We insert the binoculars onto the rasp, put on the anthers and secure them with clamps
Then we screw the right swing arm to the rack and install the rack in place.
We carry out assembly in reverse order.
It should be noted that the easiest way to install the steering universal joint is by removing it from the steering wheel. Using a key set to “13”, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt, and then the cardan itself.
When installing, make sure that the steering wheel is centered. After the rail is installed, it is necessary to tighten it
To do this, tighten the nut until it stops, and then loosen it 90 degrees.
After the rail is installed, it is necessary to tighten it. To do this, tighten the nut until it stops, and then loosen it 90 degrees.
The steering rack repair process is complete.
Design
Steering rack design: 1 – shaft boot, 2 – cover mounting bolts, 3 – Belleville washer, 4 – worm shaft oil seal, 5 – worm gear cover, 6 – sealing collar, 7 – thrust bearing, 8 – worm shaft with bearing, 9 – rasp, 10 – left boot, 11 – binoculars, 12 – binocular bracket, 13 – nut plug, 14 – thrust nut, 15 – thrust spring, 16 – locking collar, 17 – thrust piston collar, 18 – thrust rasp piston, 19 – piston liner, 20 – steering rod bolt, 21 – stopper, 22 – plate, 23 – plastic clamp, 24 – steering rack boot, 25 – left side boot, 26 – steering rack pipe.
Disassembling the steering column
We begin disassembling the control unit by removing the protective casing by cutting the plastic clamps. After this, use a special key of 17 to unscrew the thrust nut, take out the retaining ring, the spring and knock out the rack stop. Next, remove the boot and drive gear seal, remove the lock washer, and then use a 24mm wrench to unscrew the nut securing the ball bearing. We remove the gear. Now that there is nothing holding the rail in the case, we remove it through the right side of the case. We remove the needle bearing of the drive gear from its seat. To do this you will need a special puller. Check the drive gear bearings for play. If present, the bearings will have to be replaced.
The support sleeve must also be replaced. It has a cylindrical shape and is located inside the steering housing. The bushing is removed by prying it off with a screwdriver.
About the rake
The steering mechanism on Lada cars, starting with model 2108, has a steering rack. It is designed to move steering rods along a horizontal plane, which helps turn the car's wheels.
The design of the slats is quite simple and reliable, with the exception of one small drawback - a plastic bushing.
This bushing is made by the manufacturer from low-quality plastic, which soon leads to play in the rasp in it and the appearance of an unpleasant knock when moving on paving stones.
There is a rail between the engine and the passenger compartment, perpendicular to the exhaust manifold and attached with two brackets to the engine shield.
Complex car radio malfunctions
In this article we will try to answer the questions:
What is a complex fault?
How can error codes help when repairing car radios?
In the practice of repairing car radios, there are often cases when, in order to restore the operation of the car radio, it is necessary to find and eliminate not one specific malfunction, but several. It’s good if the breakdowns are not related to each other or relate to different electronic components of the car radio (for example: no sound - the amplifier chip is faulty; no disk reading - the laser reader lens is dirty).
What if both faults are in the CD drive? With such malfunctions, the process of diagnosis and repair becomes difficult, since, having eliminated one malfunction, we are immediately faced with the manifestation of another. Such a malfunction with several causes can be called complex.
Let's look at troubleshooting a complex problem using the example of repairing a Pioneer DEH-P3500MP car CD receiver. This is a case from real repair practice and its consideration will be useful for those who are interested in the topic of repairing car radios with their own hands.
The Pioneer car radio came to the repair table due to the lack of reading from the CD.
Upon external inspection, it was noticed that when the disk eject button is pressed, the process of ejecting the disk occurs slowly. The car radio was also heavily soiled with dust.
It is no secret that when heavily soiled, the optics are the first to suffer - the surface of the laser reader lens becomes covered with fine dust and this prevents the laser beam from focusing on the surface of the CD. In this case, there may be failures during playback (the sound “hiccups”), failures during the initial loading of the disc (“NO DISK”, “Error”), a long search for a recording when switching to another song. Do not forget that the cause of such a malfunction can be not only contamination of the optics, but also degradation of the laser diode in the optical unit.
For car radios, if any malfunctions occur, an error code appears on the display. Knowing the decoding of the error code, you can more quickly find the faulty unit and not waste time on diagnostics. So, for example, on the Pioneer DEH-P3500MP car radio in question, when turning on and loading a disc, the message “ERROR-11” appeared on the display. At the same time, spinning of the disk was observed - which means the spindle motor is in order.
ERROR-11
If you refer to the service documentation for this car radio model, the code “ERROR-11” stands for: – No beam focusing. Well, everything is quite simple here, as already mentioned, the violation of the focusing of the beam is associated with contamination of the car radio with dust.
In this case, it may be necessary to completely clean all mechanical parts of the car radio and its housing. Cleaning the laser reader lens is made more difficult by the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the CD mechanism and remove the laser reader from it. Read about how to disassemble the CD mechanism here and here (another type of drive).
After the laser unit is cleaned of dust, the operation of the car radio can be completely restored. But we are considering a complex malfunction.
Upon further testing the operation of the car radio on several MP3 discs, it turned out that when switching several songs forward or backward, a failure occurs. After a long and unsuccessful search for the desired track, the ominous inscription “ERROR-30” appeared on the car radio display.
Assembly
Assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. Before installation, all parts should be lubricated with the oil used in power steering. This is done to avoid scuffing during assembly and adjustment.
PTFE parts should be handled carefully; they are fragile and will burst from impact or excessive load. A socket head and an extension to it will help to carefully press in the bushings.
When inserting a gear rod, it must be centered according to the marks made before disassembly. After this, attach the drive shaft. Insert the pressure sleeve and washers behind it, tighten the adjusting nut to the required number of turns.
Manually turn the mechanism in both directions until it stops (twisting by the drive shaft). The rod should move without difficulty, this means that the assembly is done correctly. After this, the locknut is tightened. Tighten the mechanism rods and install the anthers.
Design and operating features of power steering and power steering
To make steering easier to turn and increase comfort, either hydraulic or electric power steering can be used. Both amplifiers have both pros and cons.
Structurally, power steering is a system of high and low pressure hoses containing oil driven by a pump. Power steering fluid must be poured into the reservoir near the pump. It only works when the engine is running. The driver turns the steering wheel, and at this time the fluid flows through the distributor under pressure created by the pump to the steering mechanism. It enters the working cylinder, puts pressure on the piston, which begins to move, and facilitates the rotation of the steering wheel. When moving in a straight line, the liquid flows back into the system reservoir.
Advantages and disadvantages of power steering
In the case of a hydraulic booster, the main disadvantage is the bulkiness of the entire system. But it is cheaper to produce and maintain, and this affects the price of the car. At the moment, power steering is found mainly on budget class cars, which include Priora. An amplifier of this type is also installed on expensive, powerful SUVs. This is explained by the fact that the power steering is capable of transmitting greater torque transmission power to the steering. In this regard, it outperforms an electric booster, but there are still more disadvantages:
- In a car equipped with a hydraulic booster, it is not recommended to hold the steering wheel in the extreme right or left position for more than 5 seconds. Otherwise, the oil in the power steering on the Priora begins to heat up, which can lead to system failure.
- The mechanism requires constant monitoring of the oil level, inspection and replacement of drives, hoses, and pump.
- The pump depends on the operation of the engine, which means it takes a certain percentage of power from the power plant. If the power steering does not work when driving in a straight line, this percentage of power is wasted.
- Such a system does not imply setting operating modes depending on the speed of movement or the angle of rotation of the steering wheel.
- At low speeds, the steering mechanism provides good sensitivity, but at high speeds it becomes less pronounced.
Engineers compensate for the last drawback by using a steering rack with a variable gear ratio. Power steering has already become an outdated system; designers are no longer involved in improving it.
Electric amplifier design
The design of the EUR is simpler than that of the power steering. It consists of an ECU, a torque sensor, a steering angle sensor and an electric motor. There are no hoses or fluids here. The electric motor is mounted directly on the steering rack itself, and torque is transmitted to it via a torsion shaft built into the steering mechanism system.
In the case of power steering, the force is facilitated by liquid, and in the electric booster the current is responsible for this. When the driver turns the steering wheel, force is transmitted to the steering rack. At this time, the torque sensor transmits data to the electronic control unit. The controller calculates how much current needs to be sent to the electric motor to optimally facilitate steering rotation. Since the force must be uniform, the speed of movement and the angle of rotation of the steering wheel are taken into account.
Pros and cons of EUR
The electric booster is a more modern system with high potential for modernization. It is not without its shortcomings, but there are fewer of them than the power steering:
- high price,
- The electric motor cannot provide high power, so it is installed only on passenger cars.
The disadvantages are leveled out, since the design of the electric amplifier is constantly being improved.
The EUR for the Priora has many advantages. The system is easy to maintain due to its simple design. The only part that requires inspection is the rolling bearing. The ESD mechanism has more compact dimensions and can be installed on the steering shaft in the cabin, freeing up space in the engine compartment. Due to this, the durability of the structure increases, since there is no exposure to temperature changes and high humidity.
The electric booster does not take power away from the engine, which saves fuel. The drive only operates when the steering wheel is turned. The ECU is responsible for the operation of the amplifier, with the help of which you can adjust the operating mode of the EUR, taking into account the operating conditions of the vehicle. The electric booster is not afraid of extreme steering positions. Driving at high speed makes the steering wheel with ESD more sensitive.
