Replacing and selecting the front wheel bearing of a Chevrolet Niva

January 22, 2016 Lada.Online 220 192 12

The problem with standard Niva wheel bearings (VAZ 2121, 2131) is that they need to be constantly adjusted during vehicle operation. If this is not done in time, they will fail, creating a howl or hum when moving. You can save yourself from such problems by installing non-adjustable hubs or double-row bearings.

Purpose and design of a wheel bearing

Bearings serve a dual function. On the one hand, they provide support for an axis, shaft or other element of rotation. On the other hand, they convert sliding friction into rolling friction. The wheel bearing is designed to ensure uniform rotation of the wheel hub. This is the connecting link between the hub and the axle of the car. Note that these elements ensure rotation of not only the front, but also the rear wheels.

Any bearing has the same basic structure:

Outer ring (outer race);
Inner ring (inner race);
Guide for rolling elements (cage);
Conical, cylindrical or spherical elements).

Bearings of modern imported cars have a more complex structure. Typically, their inner race is part of the hub, and the design itself contains electronic sensors. They are characterized by an increased service life. Russian manufacturers have not yet reached such technology, so they use simpler devices. On Chevrolet Niva cars, as on previous generations of the VAZ SUV, a pair of tapered bearings are installed on each hub.

Simplifying a unit negatively affects its reliability. Moving elements are especially sensitive to sharp impacts that chassis parts receive when driving over uneven surfaces.

Installing new bearings in the steering knuckle

Manufacturers do not lubricate their bearings and rings very generously, so you will have to add the missing amount of grease yourself. Litol-24 in an amount of 40 g is suitable, apply lubricant to the separator and rollers before replacing the Niva front hub.

We insert a new outer race of the inner and outer roller bearing into the prepared hole of the steering knuckle. We press the clips on both sides, in the same way as they were installed at the factory.
Next, apply lubricant to the raceways and spread it in an even layer.

We insert the inner race and close it with an oil seal. Lightly press the boot with a mandrel of the required size. We do the same on the other side, install the clip and boot.

Now we insert the hub into the steering knuckle, namely into the holes of the installed roller bearings.
The hub must be inserted smoothly and without distortion. In some cases, depending on the actual mounting diameters, pressing through a press will be required. In this case, a spacer was used.

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Non-adjustable hubs for Niva

Every car has weaknesses. In this case, these are the front hubs, which previously required periodic adjustment for normal operation, which, of course, could not but affect the reviews of car owners. That is why the designers created a non-adjustable hub for the Chevrolet Niva in order to avoid unnecessary fuss in terms of repairing the car.

In general, independent adjustment of bearings is almost impossible, due to the very complex design. Also, do not tighten the bearings all the way. And, besides this, there is a whole bunch of difficulties that are difficult to solve without the intervention of experts. It was precisely in order to make life easier for motorists that non-adjustable hubs were installed on the Niva. Reviews from those who purchased a car already with this innovation can be summarized into a specific list:

there is no need to engage in constant minor repairs and maintenance of this part, be it lubrication or adjustment;
the bearing will not turn on the hub;
there is no need to constantly lubricate the hub, and even suffer, choosing a better quality lubricant;
no friction occurs;
there will be no need to replace the bearing.

There are a whole bunch of advantages if your car has this mechanism. But now the Niva is producing a reinforced non-adjustable hub. But if the car owner is confident in his abilities, then everything can be done with his own hands.

Installation and Lubrication

Probably one of the most important points in this knot. A lot of Nivovodsk people complain that Papuan services do not know anything other than lithol and grease. There are currently a lot of bearing lubricants in the world, compared to which the old generation lubricants are as old as mammoth poop. In lubricants, as in motor oils, there is the concept of a base oil, or sometimes the formulation is found, an oil carrier. For a popular science story, we can talk about mineral and semi-synthetic lubricants. A number of mineral lubricants, when the temperature reaches 40-50 degrees, simply flow, almost like water. And at a temperature of -20 degrees they rise almost like a stake. If this lubricant is included in the hub assembly and axle shaft bearings, there is no need to talk about the car rolling over. To lubricate the bearings of axle shafts and hubs, I recommend Total Ceran XM 220 lubricant. The characteristics even exceed the requirements for our hub unit. I sent it to services that work with motorcycles and quads, as well as trucks. This lubricant has only one drawback: its availability. All so-called “dealers and distributors” import and certify only consumer goods in Russia. That is, a product that sells well. And special products are not profitable. My colleagues and I have to do this ourselves, through Finka. If everything is really bad with the lubricant, you can use S2A.

Total Ceran XM 220 grease

The fact that the wheels on a Chevrolet Niva rotate smoothly is determined by the presence of bearings in the hubs. They can stand on both the front and rear wheels. Bearings are designed to reduce friction.

If such bearings fail, the wheel warps and the rubber begins to wear unevenly and quickly . If the bearing is damaged while the car is moving, the wheel will simply lock and stop rotating. For this reason, it is important to pay timely attention to bearings, especially on the Chevrolet Niva, since the car is an SUV and therefore experiences heavy loads on the chassis.

How to change a wheel bearing on a Niva

The steps to replace the front bearing after removing the nut can be divided into 4 stages:

Removing and disconnecting the steering knuckle and brake drum along with the hinges, from the strut and CV joint.
Pressing out old parts.
Pressing in new wheel bearings (two for each wheel).
We put the unit back together and tighten the nut and adjust the gap.

For repairs, you will need a standard set of plumbing tools. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the structure of the node.

Required set of tools for work:

A 30mm socket wrench to loosen the nut;
Screwdriver to unscrew the brake caliper;
Set of sockets and ratchet;
Round nose pliers;
Hammer;
Mandrel or pipe for pressing;
Puller with claws (if possible);
Puller with claws;
Jack and vice;
Torque wrench to properly tighten the hub nut.

We place the car on a flat surface, engage first gear, remove the handbrake, and put chocks under the wheels. This completes the preparation

Also, before repairing, it is necessary to study the location of the elements of the car’s chassis according to the diagram: (pay attention to the steering knuckle - position 27, bearing - position 9)

Removing the front hub

The first stage begins with the following actions:

Loosen the wheel and hub nuts. You need to carefully remove the decorative cap, then lift the replacement side and lower it onto the stops. We place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
We remove the front wheel using the well-known method, freeing it from the bolts. Next, you need to carefully remove the decorative cap.

Unscrew the hub nut. To do this, you need to unlock it with a screwdriver. Remove the cone washer and unscrew the ABS sensor (if equipped).

After that, the pads are removed and the caliper bolts are unscrewed, and the casing bolts are also unscrewed. The caliper itself, after being removed with wire, is attached to the upper arm.

Next, you need to remove the entire rotating mechanism from the CV joint splines along with the ball joints. To do this, several operations are performed:

Press out the steering rod ball pin using a puller, having first unscrewed the fasteners, as shown in the photo.
Unscrew the pin bolt on the top ball. supports and pull it out of the socket.

The lower ball joint must be disconnected from the lever by unscrewing 3 nuts.
Once all the joints are disconnected, you can safely remove the entire assembly and begin replacing the wheel bearing.

Installation

When the turning work is completed, we begin assembling the unit. Everything is simpler here - no adjustment is required, and the locknut is tightened “from the heart.” There is no need to worry about over-tightening the hub; it is almost impossible.

Stages of work:

place the steering knuckle on a flat, hard surface;
install the support washer and, using a head or steel pipe, carefully press the bearing into place;
install the second support washer, then use the same tools to carefully hammer in the oil seal;
repeat these works on the opposite side of the steering knuckle;
put the steering knuckle on the hub and tighten the locknut to a torque of about 200 Nm or with moderate force;
put on the wheel, rotate it and check the functionality of the bearing;
We fasten the steering rack and ball joints.

We carry out similar work on the opposite side of the car. After the installation is completed, we go and enjoy - now replacement may be required no earlier than after 100 thousand kilometers, and maybe later. The manufacturer provides the same warranty provided that the installation was carried out correctly.

Adjusting the wheel bearing

To work, you will need an indicator and a torque wrench.

To prepare for adjusting the wheel bearing, you must perform the following operations:

Secure the indicator by resting its leg on the hub near the adjusting nut.
Place spanners on the studs and secure them with nuts.
Rotate the hub and move it axially. (Screwed spanners are used as handles).
Measure the amount of axial movement (clearance) of the hub, guided by the indicator readings.
If the stroke exceeds 0.15 mm, adjust the play.

The adjustment is carried out as follows:

Straighten the collar of the nut.
Unscrew it with a spanner.
Install a new nut and tighten with a force of 2 kgf*m.

Loosen the nut and tighten again with a torque of 0.7 kgf*m.
Loosen the tension by turning the key 20-25 degrees counterclockwise.
Check hub play.
Make sure that the indicator readings correspond to the norm (0.02-0.08 mm).
Lock the nut by pressing its edge into the groove of the outer CV joint.

You can adjust the hub play without using a torque wrench. To do this you need:

Tighten the nut tightly.
Rotate the wheel a few turns.
Check the play.
If necessary, loosen or tighten the nut slightly.
Continue until the free play of the hub is within 0.02-0.08 mm.
Lock the nut collar.

The design of the rear wheel mounting of the Chevrolet Niva is very different. However, they also use bearings that need periodic replacement. They are replaced either together with the axle shafts or separately. The second option is much cheaper, but requires good metalworking skills and a torch to heat the metal.

To work you will need:

Jack, wheel wrench, chisel, hammer.
Standard set of screwdrivers and wrenches.
Axle puller.
Gas (gasoline) burner or muffle furnace.
Repair kit including bearing, oil seal and retaining ring.
A pipe with a diameter of 40-45 mm, the length of which exceeds the size of the axle shaft.

Replacement of bearings is carried out as follows:

Place the machine on a level surface.
Place wheel chocks or bricks under the front wheels.
Jack up the car.
Remove the wheel.
Place a support under the rear axle.
Unscrew the brake drum mount.
Dismantle the part.
Unscrew the nuts holding the bearing.
Load the rear axle by lowering it onto the stand.
Pull out the axle shaft using a puller.
Hang the brake mechanism on a wire.
Knock down the retaining ring using a chisel, hammer and grinder.
Crack the bearing races using a chisel.
Remove rust and dirt from the seating surface.
Put the new bearing in place.
Heat the locking ring to 200-250 degrees (dark red color) and hammer it into the seat with a pipe
Replace the oil seal.

Assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. The bearing does not need adjustment.

A visual process of replacing a Niva Chevrolet axle bearing

Another element that experiences heavy loads while driving is the Niva Chevrolet axle bearing. Which are recommended to be changed along with the axle.

A symptom that this part needs to be replaced is the appearance of loud noise at any speed, as well as the appearance of axial and radial play. This part is not in short supply and can be purchased at any auto store, its factory part number is 2121-2403080, the analogue has part number 62208-2RS, and the industrial part is 180508.

To make the replacement, first of all you need to remove the axle itself and do the following:

To remove the retaining ring with the bearing, take a vice and clamp the axle shaft in it
We take a grinder and cut the stopper and bearing in several places, this must be done carefully so as not to touch the axle shaft
Take a chisel and split the retaining ring and bearing
We remove rust and dirt from the ring and bearing seats
We take the pipe and use it to press the new bearing into place; during these actions, we must not allow the cage to rotate
We take a blowtorch and use it to heat the locking ring until red and use pliers to install it in its place
We wait until the axle shaft cools down, while it cools down in the brake flap we replace the oil seal

After everything has been changed, you need to check the transmission oil level in the rear axle. At this point, all replacement work can be considered completed. As you can see, all the work can be done independently without the participation of a specialist; it is enough to have a little knowledge and a standard set of tools.

How to change the wheel bearing on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands?

For repairs you will need:

Powerful socket wrench 30.
Puller for steering rod pin.
A mandrel for pressing out a bearing or a piece of pipe of suitable diameter.
A set of spanners or ratchet sockets.
Balloon wrench.
Hammer.
Round nose pliers.
Jack.
Wheel chocks.
Vise.
Mount.
Torque wrench.
Boards or wooden block.

The replacement process is divided into five stages:

Disconnecting the assembly (brake disc, hub and steering knuckle) from the CV joint strut.
Pressing out old bearings.
Installation of new parts.
Assembling the unit and installing it in place.
Tightening the adjusting nut.

Work is carried out on a level area. The presence of an inspection hole is not necessary.

To change bearings, you must perform the following steps:

Place the car on the site and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Jack up the wheel.
Unscrew the wheel rim mounting bolts.
Build an improvised support under the side member from a wheel with boards or timber laid on it and lower the jack so that the car rests on it.
Jack up the lower arm, compressing the suspension spring.
Turn the steering wheel to the right or left (depending on the side from which the replacement is performed).
Unscrew and remove the caliper, caliper and brake pads.
Hang the caliper so that it does not put any weight on the brake hose.
Turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Unscrew and unscrew the tie rod nut.
Remove the pin using a puller.

Unscrew the hub nut.
Remove the ball joint mounting bolts.
Carefully remove the hub along with the steering knuckle, ball joints and brake disc.
Remove the caliper protective screen.
Remove the brake disc.
Unscrew the steering arm.
Clamp the steering knuckle in a vice.
Remove the seals with a pry bar or a powerful screwdriver.
Substituting the mandrel, knock out the outer races of the bearings.
Wipe and clean the seat.
Disassemble new bearings.
Press the outer races into the hub using a mandrel or old parts.

Apply lubricant, filling ⅔ of the space in the cage.
Install the bearing race and inner race.
Carefully press in the new oil seal.
Repeat the installation operation for the bearing on the second side of the hub.
Place the assembly on the CV joint splines.
Tighten the hub nut.
Screw on the ball joints and steering bipod.
Install the protective cover and caliper bracket.
Tighten the bolts securing the protective screen and lock.
Put the caliper and brake pads in place.
Jack up the car.
Place and secure the wheel.
Tighten the hub nut by tapping the wheel in the 6 and 12 o'clock directions.

Detailed video about replacing wheel bearings

Dismantling the old part

The removed assembly and steering knuckle do not require further disassembly. The only thing you need to do is remove the old oil seal using a regular flathead screwdriver, holding the hub assembly in a vice. It is not recommended to use them in the future; new ones are installed, just like the bearing.

To begin dismantling, it is enough to separate the brake disc mounts from the wheel turning mechanism (do not forget about the seals).
It is convenient when an assistant holds the fist assembly in the air.

Next, at the same time, using the attachment, you need to knock it out of the pipe, as can be seen in the photo:

After separation, one ring with a separator remains on the hub, and the second remains inside the knuckle. The old clip is pulled off with a special puller equipped with grips.

The second part of the part is knocked out of the trunnion through a spacer made of soft metal in the form of a rod.
The attachment is placed against the clip and light blows are applied, moving it in a circle.
After this, the old grease should be carefully removed from the cavity.

Car "Niva"

The presence under the cylinder boots of a small amount of crimson-colored lubricant, very expensive and specially developed for VAZ, is one of the signs of originality. After installing the camshafts from Iveco, be sure to check the heating above the described points of the hub assembly. If the hub nut and the cylindrical part of the knuckle are even a little colder than the brake disc, solve the problems of your brake system as described above. All these problems can be easily solved without removing the Iveco hub assembly from the suspension - just remove the wheel.

The installation instructions contain additional information with photos on these issues. After the starting test runs, be sure to check the tightening torque of the hub nut kg after a run of 1.5 tkm.

Remove the caliper and leave it hanging on the brake hose, put a thick, flat layer of hard rubber in it, like a hockey puck, start the car and operate the brake pedal very many times. Along with the rubber, flat objects of different thicknesses can be laid to perform running-in at different degrees of cylinder extension.

Like any part, they wear out, which leads to breakdowns. Having tried to fundamentally solve this problem, manufacturers of various brands of cars are installing non-adjustable wheel bearings.

Wheel hub for Niva and Niva CHEVROLET with IVECO bearing

Non-adjustable hubs for Niva Any car has weak points. In this case, these are the front hubs, which previously required periodic adjustment for normal operation, which, of course, could not but affect the reviews of car owners.

REINFORCED NON-ADJUSTABLE HUB FOR NIVA (LADA 4X4) AND CHEVROLET NIVA

That is why the designers created a non-adjustable hub for the Chevrolet Niva in order to avoid unnecessary fuss in terms of repairing the car. In general, independent adjustment of bearings is almost impossible, due to the very complex design. Also, do not tighten the bearings all the way. And, besides this, there is a whole bunch of difficulties that are difficult to solve without the intervention of experts.

It was precisely in order to make life easier for motorists that non-adjustable hubs were installed on the Niva. Check the condition of the rubber bushings of the anti-roll bar and the reliability of fastening the stabilizer brackets to the lower arms. In this case, the tires wear out unevenly, and the service life of the bearings themselves is sharply reduced.

The complete absence of clearance, at which tight rotation of the hub is observed, also leads to a decrease in service life.

Place the car on supports. If there is no indicator, swing the hanging wheel in a vertical plane. If you feel any play, the bearing clearance may need to be adjusted.

To make a final check of the bearing, have an assistant press and hold the brake pedal. Rock the wheel again in a vertical plane. The disappearance of wheel play during such a check confirms the need to adjust the clearance in the bearings.

Design Features

Structurally, the hub connects the wheel and the drive shaft. It consists of two bearings, the main purpose of which is to make rotation smooth. The main advantage of this design is that the backlash gap can be adjusted in this mechanism.

But during the operation of the car, the production of parts occurs. The gap increases and the wheel begins to vibrate violently. In simple words, it is misaligned relative to the axis, which leads to wear of the rubber. In this case, no adjustment will help; all that remains is to replace the faulty parts with new ones.

Which ones are better to choose for a Chevy Niva?

The hub ensures free rotation of the wheel and its reliable attachment to the car suspension. It acts as a supporting structure and allows you not to change the entire hub assembly as a whole, but to separately repair parts (bearing, drum, disc).

The hub plays a key role in the operation of the drive, brakes and steering and is subject to severe stress while driving. Therefore, the comfort and safety of driving depend on the strength and condition of this unit.

Front-wheel drive parts for Shnivy are produced by dozens of companies. Products differ in prices, quality, permissible loads and service life. The standard configuration of the SUV includes adjustable hub units, the tightening torque of which must be controlled after 2-3 thousand kilometers. For those who value reliability and are not ready for regular maintenance, manufacturers have introduced non-adjustable (maintenance-free) wheel hubs. They differ in the following indicators:

The possibility of wear of the bearing seat in the steering knuckle is eliminated.
The unit does not require lubrication or adjustment during its entire service life.
The non-removable design of the bearings prevents them from turning.
Increased service life of the unit.
Reduced friction due to the use of ball bearings.

The non-adjustable hub has a reinforced cross-section, which prevents its deformation under the influence of shock loads

This is very important when regularly driving off-road or on broken asphalt roads.

Parts with catalog numbers 2123-3103014 and 21230-3103014 are produced by the following companies: IVECO, SKF, Leader, GM-Avtovaz, VolgaAvtoProm and other companies. The cost of the part depends on the manufacturer and design (adjustable and non-adjustable). The price of the products is 1000-6000 rubles. You can also find more expensive units that include brake discs.

The maximum mileage of unregulated IVECO hubs is 100-120 thousand kilometers. Adjustable ones last less and their durability depends on the frequency, correct maintenance, quality of lubricant and manufacturer.

For Niva 4x4 you can find on sale reinforced, non-adjustable hubs with double-row bearings from the Iveco Daily truck. According to the manufacturer, this modernized unit has the following advantages over Nivovsky:

there is no need to adjust (the bearing tightening is precisely set during its production);
no need for regular lubrication;
eliminates rotation of bearings on the hub;
eliminates wear of bearing seats on the steering knuckle and hub;
a ball bearing reduces friction in the hub assembly;
The service life of the hub is increased due to thickening (see photo).

Algorithm of actions

Ever since designs with double-row bearings appeared, everything has gone wild. Let's put everything in a row. I know of about 5 different designs, and perhaps only one does not cause serious complaints about its performance. Now a specific algorithm of actions. If you are lucky and your standard unit has traveled more than 20-30 thousand km, the car has a roll and only needed tension adjustment, then you have coaxially bored knuckles. Install good Russian or German bearings and good hubs as needed and ride on, happily ever after. The most important and important thing is that the Niva wheel bearing must have a steel cage. If you are unlucky and the wheel bearings are “consumables”, or regardless of replacement, the car does not roll forward - you have misaligned knuckles and then it is better to think about other designs, since you have nothing to lose. about the option with a wheel bearing from an IVEKO truck .

Replacing the axle bearing

Another element that experiences heavy loads while driving is the Niva Chevrolet axle bearing. Which are recommended to be changed along with the axle.

To make the replacement, first of all you need to remove the axle itself and do the following:

To remove the retaining ring with the bearing, take a vice and clamp the axle shaft in it
We take a grinder and cut the stopper and bearing in several places, this must be done carefully so as not to touch the axle shaft
Take a chisel and split the retaining ring and bearing
We remove rust and dirt from the ring and bearing seats
We take the pipe and use it to press the new bearing into place; during these actions, we must not allow the cage to rotate
We take a blowtorch and use it to heat the locking ring until red and use pliers to install it in its place
We wait until the axle shaft cools down, while it cools down in the brake flap we replace the oil seal

Chevrolet Niva hub

A hub is a vehicle mechanism that is a rotating element to which the wheels are attached. Bearings are installed inside this element (in the hole), which play the role of smoothing the movement of the car. The larger the diameter of the hub disk, the stronger the design of the mechanism. In order to avoid distortions, manufacturers manufacture hubs with larger dimensions than the diameter of the installation hole.

The brake pads and axle flanges are attached to the hub. Thus, the presence of this mechanism makes it possible to use the car to its fullest:

Reliability of wheel rim fastening;
Possibility of wheel rotation;
Holding ABS elements;
Transmission of torque from the axle shaft to the wheel;
Provides a base for securing the brake system and flanges.

Mechanism parts are made from cast iron materials or various metal alloys by turning and milling. The hub has the appearance of a round rim with holes located on it, as well as one main hole in the middle, which is due to the complexity of the configuration.

The hub is attached to the car using bearings that are mounted on the axis of rotation or the beam of the drive axle. The hub has a so-called flange to which the brake disc or drum (for drum brakes) is attached.

Device mechanism: purpose and hub breakdowns

Now let’s look at the purpose of the main components of the part’s design:

Rim. It has holes for installing studs on which the wheel is subsequently attached.
Inner hole. Designed for installation of bearings (roller).
Hole with slots. Designed for mounting the product on a CV joint axle shaft.

During the operation of a Chevrolet Niva car, bearing wear occurs, which requires replacement. When operating a Chevrolet Niva on poorly paved roads or off-road, various types of malfunctions periodically occur. But most often the chassis of a Chevrolet Niva car - the hub unit - is subject to malfunctions. Reasons why the operation of these nodes may be disrupted:

Lack of lubricant in the device mechanism;
Low quality lubricant;
Poor quality bearings;
Late adjustment of bearings. Bearing adjustments must be carried out with micron precision to achieve high efficiency of the mechanism.
Improper operation of the vehicle. The simplest thing: not disabling the center differential lock when driving onto an asphalt surface.

The problem is solved by replacing the hub unit, but the price of the issue is too expensive. In addition, the possibility of failure of the mechanism after its replacement and traveling a couple of thousand kilometers cannot be ruled out. The problem can be solved in the following way - install a non-adjustable hub unit.

On the positive properties of unregulated elements

So, it is almost impossible to adjust the bearing due to the complex design of the hub mechanism. Whatever bearings are installed in the hub device (ball or roller), they cannot be tightened with a nut until it stops. This will lead to the wheel simply not rotating or jamming while moving. In addition, it is difficult to compensate for misalignment of the bearing installation locations in the rotary cam. The problem can be solved by making adjustments every 2-3 thousand kilometers.

But there is a more constructive approach, which is popular among Shnivovodov - this is the installation of a non-adjustable mechanism assembled with a non-removable bearing. This mechanism has the following quality indicators:

No maintenance of structural elements (adjustments, lubrication) is required;
The possibility of turning the bearing in the device is excluded due to its non-removable design;
There is no need for regular hub lubrication. It is filled from the factory with a special long-lasting lubricant;
Friction in the assembly is reduced due to the operation of a ball bearing;
The possibility of wear on the seats on the rotary cam is eliminated;
The bearing is tightened in production and does not require adjustment, which is characterized by the quality of its work;
There is no need to replace the bearing.

How to diagnose a broken hub

Surely every driver has at least once encountered a situation when, while driving, a so-called crackling noise is heard. The sound can appear at speeds of 40 km/h and above. Using a car with such a sign is fraught not only with danger to the life of the driver and passengers, but also with serious consequences for the car itself. Most likely, you will notice a hum in a loaded car when turning.

Finding out which wheel bearing is worn out is quite simple: if there is noise from the wheel when turning to the right, the left bearing should be replaced. Similarly, if a hum occurs when turning left, pay attention to the right bearing.

There are several stages of wheel bearing wear:

hum when turning;
hum during normal driving with a loaded car;
hum when driving an empty car;
constant hum that increases during turns;
a strong hum, accompanied by crunching, grinding and unregulated movements of the car from side to side.

The period of time between the first and fifth stages with moderate driving can be up to 5 years. It is recommended to replace the part as soon as possible so as not to put the car and the driver’s life at risk.

What could have caused the Niva Chevrolet bearing to fail:

in 70% of cases, breakdown occurs due to unsuitable lubricant: its quality, excess or shortage may well damage the part;
it happens that various contaminants and moisture penetrate deep into the bearing;
this is the cause of failure in 18% of cases;
There is also a possibility of incorrect assembly of parts, which entails excessive load and overheating.

What are the risks of driving a car with a damaged wheel bearing? There is a considerable possibility of the wheel jamming, which can end in disaster when driving at high speed. It is quite possible to lose control of the car due to the wheel “moving to the side”. Spreading brake pads is also a possible consequence.

How to replace the wheel bearing of a Niva Chevrolet

When pressing the outer race, you should use mandrels that prevent distortion. During the assembly process, grease is generously applied between the rings and the separator. It not only reduces friction, but also protects the rollers from dirt. There are two types of hubs available for the Chevrolet Niva. A conventional hub is installed with tapered bearings that need to be adjusted periodically

, and, if necessary, disassemble to replace the lubricant. The reinforced hub is installed with a double-row ball bearing.

Replacement of the wheel bearing is carried out according to the given algorithm.

With the vehicle stationary, loosen the bearing nut.
The jack is placed under the lower arm to partially compress the spring. Hang up and dismantle the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper.
Press out the steering pin.
Unscrew the ball joints from the arms.
Unscrew the bearing nut completely and remove the hub with the steering knuckle.
Press the hub out of the inner races (the outer bearing cage may come out of its race).
Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal and thrust plate from both sides of the steering knuckle axle.
Press out the outer bearing races.
Install the bearings in the following order: race, cage, washer, seal.
Press in the hub.

The wheel bearing is tightened using a torque wrench. First, the nut is tightened to a torque of 1.5 N*m, then released and tightened to a torque of 6.8 N*m. Next, the nut is released by turning 25 and locked. You need to drive the car 1 km and check the play.

The possibility of wear of the bearing seat in the steering knuckle is eliminated.
The unit does not require lubrication or adjustment during its entire service life.
The non-removable design of the bearings prevents them from turning.
Increased service life of the unit.
Reduced friction due to the use of ball bearings.

What else can you do?

The Niva 4x4 wheel bearing is not very durable. It often breaks down and requires repair. In order not to think about constantly replacing the front wheel bearing of the VAZ 2121, you can use alternative bearings, for example, double-row ones.

They have advantages over the standard ones in the VAZ 2121:

They do not require adjustment or lubrication of the unit. All necessary work is carried out at the factory.
They have high wear resistance.
Do not allow arbitrary rotation of the wheels when driving.
They have a long service life.

Of course, before installing a double-row bearing, you need to bore the hub to the desired size. And the parts are quite expensive. But this is compensated by a long service life, eliminating the need for constant repairs.

Replacing a Niva 2121 wheel bearing is quite simple. It only requires having the necessary tools and strictly following the instructions. Replacement must be carried out immediately if at least one sign of wear is detected. Otherwise, the car may roll over while driving.

How to change the wheel bearing on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands?

Niva Chevrolet wheel bearings are subject to heavy loads during operation. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor their condition and change parts in a timely manner. Otherwise, the risk of a collision due to a seized bearing increases.

For repairs you will need:

Powerful socket wrench 30.
Puller for steering rod pin.
A mandrel for pressing out a bearing or a piece of pipe of suitable diameter.
A set of spanners or ratchet sockets.
Balloon wrench.
Hammer.
Round nose pliers.
Jack.
Wheel chocks.
Vise.
Mount.
Torque wrench.
Boards or wooden block.

The replacement process is divided into five stages:

Disconnecting the assembly (brake disc, hub and steering knuckle) from the CV joint strut.
Pressing out old bearings.
Installation of new parts.
Assembling the unit and installing it in place.
Tightening the adjusting nut.

To change bearings, you must perform the following steps:

Place the car on the site and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Jack up the wheel.
Unscrew the wheel rim mounting bolts.
Build an improvised support under the side member from a wheel with boards or timber laid on it and lower the jack so that the car rests on it.
Jack up the lower arm, compressing the suspension spring.
Turn the steering wheel to the right or left (depending on the side from which the replacement is performed).
Unscrew and remove the caliper, caliper and brake pads.
Hang the caliper so that it does not put any weight on the brake hose.
Turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Unscrew and unscrew the tie rod nut.
Remove the pin using a puller.

Unscrew the hub nut.
Remove the ball joint mounting bolts.
Carefully remove the hub along with the steering knuckle, ball joints and brake disc.
Remove the caliper protective screen.
Remove the brake disc.
Unscrew the steering arm.
Clamp the steering knuckle in a vice.
Remove the seals with a pry bar or a powerful screwdriver.
Substituting the mandrel, knock out the outer races of the bearings.
Wipe and clean the seat.
Disassemble new bearings.
Press the outer races into the hub using a mandrel or old parts.

Apply lubricant, filling ⅔ of the space in the cage.
Install the bearing race and inner race.
Carefully press in the new oil seal.
Repeat the installation operation for the bearing on the second side of the hub.
Place the assembly on the CV joint splines.
Tighten the hub nut.
Screw on the ball joints and steering bipod.
Install the protective cover and caliper bracket.
Tighten the bolts securing the protective screen and lock.
Put the caliper and brake pads in place.
Jack up the car.
Place and secure the wheel.
Tighten the hub nut by tapping the wheel in the 6 and 12 o'clock directions.

Detailed video about replacing wheel bearings

(as well as the rear) Chevrolet Niva has exactly the same design as old cars, and their repair and replacement are carried out according to the same scheme. Initially, you should go to any car wash, where you should thoroughly wash the entire front suspension under high pressure. For crossovers, this advice is especially important.

The front of the car is raised using a jack;
The corresponding wheels, brake pads and calipers are dismantled;
The hinge pin is untwisted and pressed out using a special tool;
The bolts from the hinges and nuts are removed.
After this, you have the opportunity to examine the part for damage and make appropriate repairs. Regardless of whether you plan to replace the bearings, you should change the seals.

After removal, the inner race along with the rollers must be thoroughly washed with kerosene. After this, you will be able to visually assess the bearing damage. It is worth remembering that these parts are replaced only in pairs.

There is no possibility of adjusting the backlash using a nut (tightening does not help);
The rollers and clips are heavily scratched;
Overheating is detected and a hum is observed.

Hub repair: popular mistakes and misconceptions

Connoisseurs of tuned cars are often able to make radical changes to their cars. And few restrictions exist for them. Owners of Niva Chevrolet are no exception. Tuning fans also took a look at the design of the front hub assembly. Often on online forums in discussions you can find advice (and even corresponding training videos) about replacing the bearing using a hub mechanism that has a steering knuckle from a VAZ 2121 car, since it is believed that this design is better in terms of reliability.

However, this is a misconception. Yes, tightening will occur without any difficulties, but this will make it impossible to adjust the camber of the front wheel of the car. The fact is that each fist has distinct differences in size and axial angles. But much more stupid are the tips that require turning the hub and shaft on a lathe.

Repairs such as replacing a wheel bearing in a field can be done independently without much difficulty. Wheel bearings on the VAZ 2121 and Chevrolet Niva have a very short resource due to the suspension design, compared to other all-wheel drive vehicles, therefore, these parts need to be given increased attention in order to identify the fault in time.

Replacing a wheel bearing in the field does not involve anything complicated if you follow the instructions strictly. Anyone, even a novice car owner, can cope with such repairs. Not all vases have wheel bearings changed the same way. The design of the Niva car hub differs from the design of other VAZ models, so the process of replacing the bearing will also have its differences.

Symptoms and identification of a worn wheel bearing

When the life of the hub bearing is running out, a hum is clearly audible when driving, this is the main sign. If you listen, you can understand which direction this hum is coming from. When driving at low speeds, it is not too noticeable, and it can easily be confused with noise from rubber, but as speed increases, the hum increases, which is reminiscent of flying in an airplane. You can’t drive with a humming bearing, because soon it may simply break into pieces, and this implies a lot of other problems.

Also interesting: Tolyatti.RU (c) - Everything for the VAZ Lada 4×4

If there is an assumption that the bearing has exhausted its service life, then you can check this with the car parked. To do this, you need to jack up the wheel whose bearing is suspected and pull the wheel vertically with your hands. If there is play, then the bearing is most likely to blame.

Necessary tools for work

Jack and supports. To replace the front bearing, you need to lift both wheels, otherwise the stabilizer will interfere, pinching the suspension elements;
Wrench for unscrewing wheel nuts;
Flathead screwdriver. To remove the protective cap;
Head 27;
Locksmith's beard. To straighten the collar of the hub nut;
Hammer;
Wrenches for 10, 17, 19 and 22;
Chisel and wooden spacer. To avoid damaging other parts when knocking out;
Vise;
A piece of pipe for pressing in bearing retaining rings.

Bearing replacement process

Loosen the nuts on the wheel where replacement is planned and jack up both wheels of the axle. Remove the desired wheel;
We dismantle the caliper and guide. To avoid damaging the brake hose, we tie the caliper to the upper arm with wire;
Having removed the protective cap, use a 27mm head to unscrew the hub bearing nut and remove the conical bushing;
Using a chisel, unbend the locking plate of the front and rear lever mounting nuts. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the front and rear nuts securing the lever. After this, remove the locking plate;
When the lever is released, it must be moved away from the steering knuckle, freeing the brake hose;
Disconnect the ball joints (upper and lower) from the lever;
Now you can remove the entire steering knuckle assembly, along with the ball joints and the brake disc, by removing it from the CV joint splines;
Separate the steering knuckle from the hub with the brake disc. If the parts do not separate freely, then we clamp the fist in a vice and, using a soft metal drift or chisel, through a spacer from wood, knock out the hub with the brake disc;
Next, pull out the bolts securing the lever and knock down the protective ring with a chisel;
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt that secures the casing and remove the casing itself;
We hold the fist in a vice and, using a flat-head screwdriver, pry up and remove the wheel bearing seal. There is a metal ring behind the oil seal, we also remove it;
The next step is to remove the inner ring of the outer bearing assembly from the well. Next, we also remove the oil seal, metal ring and inner bearing ring assembly;
Using a punch and a hammer, we knock out the metal rings of the outer and inner bearings. At this point, dismantling is considered complete.

After cleaning the well from old grease, you can proceed to installing a new bearing. Replacing a wheel bearing in a field occurs in the reverse order; it is only important not to forget to fill it with fresh Litol 24 grease and, after installing the steering knuckle on the car, adjust the clearance in the bearings.

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First changes and Lada 4x4

Since the mid-nineties, or more precisely since 1995, changes began to be made to the design of the car. Firstly, if previously the car had a 1.6-liter 4-cylinder 73-horsepower gasoline engine, now the volume has been increased to 1.7. The manual transmission now had five steps instead of the previous four. Secondly, they changed the dashboard, installed more comfortable seats in the cabin, and replaced the taillights with more modern ones in order to externally try to get closer to the Western automobile industry.

In 2006, “Niva” was officially renamed “Lada” 4x4, and models exported were called “Lada Taiga” 4x4 - this is what the car is now called in European countries. Externally and internally, the car has changed, if at all, only slightly: new mirrors have appeared - larger ones, the indicators and instruments on the panel have been changed. The new car model released in 2015 called “Lada 4x4 Urban”, which is considered “luxury”, did not receive any major changes - except for new bumpers, electric windows and air conditioning in the cabin.

Car "Niva"

“Niva” is perhaps one of the most popular SUVs, not only in Russia, but also abroad. Since the late seventies, this car began to be produced. The very first model was named VAZ-2121.

In the mid-eighties, Niva cars with Soviet racers inside took all three prizes at the Australian rally raid. Sales of the car soared: in Australia itself - twofold, in Europe - fourfold or more, depending on the country.

Indeed, this was a new word in the annals of the development of light SUVs, and it was written precisely by Soviet designers.

Recommendations for replacement

Despite the fact that it is recommended that the replacement be carried out at a car service center, this task can be performed independently, since installation does not require a special tool and no modifications are required during installation.

The main thing you need during installation is:

Use new nuts and studs,
Lubricate all system elements to prevent souring
Clean the caliper

The only disadvantage of this hub unit is the high price, but by installing it, you will save yourself from the problems associated with standard elements, while increasing the reliability and cross-country ability of the SUV. And if you have a standard set of tools and a little knowledge, you can make the replacement yourself.

Diagnostics

In the absence of a special stand, it is possible to identify the problem. To do this, with precautions, hang up the supposedly faulty wheel. And then grab the extreme points in the horizontal and vertical planes and make swinging movements.

A serviceable bearing has no play or it is insignificant, requiring replacement, on the contrary. In addition, when turning, you can hear rolling or cracking sounds. What then? It is necessary to change the wheel bearing yourself, because there is no talk of adjustment.