Replacing the wheel bearing of a Niva Chevrolet

The Chevrolet Niva deservedly enjoys great popularity both among city residents and among off-road enthusiasts. It is one of the few that allows you to drive over the most rugged terrain.

In this case, from time to time there is a need to replace some parts, including wheel bearings. This part performs an important function: it ensures smooth running of the wheels, minimizes friction, and ensures free rotation of the wheel relative to the axis. Bearings are installed on each wheel.

When this part wears out, the wheel becomes misaligned. As a result, severe wear of the rubber appears on one side. If the defect is not corrected in time, this can lead to wheel jamming as a result of bearing scattering. At high speed, this means loss of steering control - the car can fly off the road or into oncoming traffic.

Replacing the front wheel bearings of a Niva Chevrolet is done a little more often, as on other SUVs, which is explained by the operating conditions of such vehicles. Severe road conditions lead to excessive load on the car suspension, so it is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition of the car and, if problems arise, make a timely replacement, without waiting for the period recommended by the manufacturer.

Front hub design on Niva Chevrolet

Structurally, the hub connects the wheel and the drive shaft.
It consists of two bearings, the main purpose of which is to make rotation smooth. The main advantage of this design is that the backlash gap can be adjusted in this mechanism. But during the operation of the car, the production of parts occurs. The gap increases and the wheel begins to vibrate violently. In simple words, it is misaligned relative to the axis, which leads to wear of the rubber. In this case, no adjustment will help; all that remains is to replace the faulty parts with new ones.

The hub on a car is the element that connects the wheel and the drive shaft. It has two bearings, which reduce the friction force when rotating on the shaft.

Diagram of hub assembly.

This gap may increase over time and due to wear and tear of parts. In this case, the wheels begin to vibrate on the axles, which is the cause of premature tire wear. To correct the situation, the wheel bearings should be changed in a timely manner.

Hub assembly on steering knuckle

Installation

When the turning work is completed, we begin assembling the unit. Everything is simpler here - no adjustment is required, and the locknut is tightened “from the heart.” There is no need to worry about over-tightening the hub; it is almost impossible.

place the steering knuckle on a flat, hard surface;
install the support washer and, using a head or steel pipe, carefully press the bearing into place;
install the second support washer, then use the same tools to carefully hammer in the oil seal;
repeat these works on the opposite side of the steering knuckle;
put the steering knuckle on the hub and tighten the locknut to a torque of about 200 Nm or with moderate force;
put on the wheel, rotate it and check the functionality of the bearing;
We fasten the steering rack and ball joints.

What you need to know about signs of bearing wear

A broken car hub is usually a serious problem and should not be ignored.

Among other things, a worn hub heats up more when the car is braking, which negatively affects the performance of the car’s brakes. It happens that damage to the hub occurs gradually and, as a rule, this is indicated by an unpleasant sound, accompanied by vibration of the body or weak shocks.

The main reasons for hub failure are:

careless driving on roads;
multiple overloading of cars;
driving on sandy soil or “mud baths”;
frequent car slipping;
aggressive driving style with sharp acceleration and braking.

These reasons can have a significant negative impact on the hub housing, outer or inner bearing ring. They are also sources of dirt, moisture and sand getting inside the bearing mechanism, which causes the journal to fail.

The following list of signs may indicate a failure of the wheel bearing on a Niva-Chevrolet car:

the appearance of vibrations during movement, clearly felt on the steering wheel or the body as a whole (it is necessary to take measures to replace the bearing, since there is a possible risk of it jamming);
spontaneous change in trajectory while driving (also possible due to incorrect wheel alignment adjustment);
a specific sound penetrating inside the cabin (sometimes accompanied by a crunching sound caused by the displacement of the bearing rollers);
uneven and intense wear of tires due to misalignment of the wheels due to a failed bearing.

the appearance of extraneous sounds - a crunching sound that can be heard while moving from the passenger compartment. This sound is produced by balls that move in the broken walls of the bearing.
vibration is a harbinger of bearing seizure. This is a very important sign, it is quite difficult not to notice it, since it is felt throughout the body and radiates into the steering wheel.
The car pulls a little to the side. This may be caused by the need to perform a wheel alignment. But also the deviation from the course may be due to the fact that the bearing jams a little and it stops the wheel.

The appearance of even one of these signs requires immediate inspection and, if necessary, replacement of the Niva Chevrolet wheel bearing. This work is quite simple, so even a novice car enthusiast can do it.

There are two main signs that indicate replacement is necessary:

There was a knock and play in the hub area
There was a strong hum and grinding noise in the hub area

But in order to accurately understand the reason for the appearance of extraneous noise, you need to disassemble this mechanism and inspect it.

To make a replacement, carefully do the following:

If this is the front wheel, then the Niva Chevrolet front hub is removed. To do this, the car must be placed on a level surface and jacked up on the replacement side. Then disconnect the pads from the caliper. Unscrew the nut on the axle. We remove all spare parts from the wheel. Take a skein and disconnect the hub from the brake disc.
We remove the bearing. To do this, remove the plate and oil seal from the inside. Take a cleat and a hammer and remove the inner bearing
We install a new one. Replacing bearings must be changed on both sides at once, and it does not matter whether it is the rear or front wheels. In order not to damage the body, pressing must be carried out using a wooden plate and a pipe.
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Putting the unit back together. Reassembly must be done in reverse order.

Bearing wear manifests itself as the following symptoms:

Vibration of the front wheels, which can be reflected in the steering wheel or felt in the cabin.
Knocking or crackling sounds in the front of the car when driving;
Heating of the front wheels in the axle area.

If such manifestations occur, you need to check the condition of the wheel bearings. To do this, jack up the car and rock the wheel in different directions. Play and knocking in the bearing area indicates the need for replacement and adjustment. The malfunction may also manifest itself in the form of noise when the wheel rotates.

1. The hubs get hot. It is important to understand that when braking, the kinetic energy of the car is converted into thermal energy. As a result, the brake discs and the hubs on which they are attached become very hot. Heating of the part during movement, and not during braking, indicates wear of the bearing or its incorrect adjustment.

The second option is typical for adjustable hubs. The adjusting nut must be tightened with a force of 2 kgf*m. If you tighten it further, the tapered bearings will be too tight.

Their rotation will be difficult. Prolonged operation of the machine in this condition leads to bearing failure and wheel jamming.

2. The adjusting nut is unscrewed while moving. Sometimes this happens literally after 20-50 kilometers. The phenomenon is observed in three cases: the master forgot to tighten the nut, there was a misalignment between the bearing races, or play appeared in the coupling of the CV joint with the hub.

Is it possible to replace the front wheel bearing of a Niva Chevrolet with your own hands?

It is recommended to entrust installation to professionals. However, if you have a set of tools and free time, it is quite possible to perform the replacement yourself. Before starting repairs, you need to visit a car wash and wash the front suspension especially thoroughly. The second important step is the correct dismantling of the part. To do this, you need to block the wheel and remove the bolts that secure the wheels. Further:

first, use a jack to suspend and secure the front part of the car;
then remove the wheel along with the brake pads;
unscrew the piston pin of the swing arm;
we take out the bolts that secure the ball joints;
screw the hub together with the hinges.

The fact that the wheels on a Chevrolet Niva rotate smoothly is determined by the presence of bearings in the hubs. They can stand on both the front and rear wheels. Bearings are designed to reduce friction.

If such bearings fail, the wheel warps and the rubber begins to wear unevenly and quickly. If the bearing is damaged while the car is moving, the wheel will simply lock and stop rotating. For this reason, it is important to pay timely attention to bearings, especially on the Chevrolet Niva, since the car is an SUV and therefore experiences heavy loads on the chassis.

(as well as the rear) Chevrolet Niva has exactly the same design as old cars, and their repair and replacement are carried out according to the same scheme. Initially, you should go to any car wash, where you should thoroughly wash the entire front suspension under high pressure. For crossovers, this advice is especially important.

The front of the car is raised using a jack;
The corresponding wheels, brake pads and calipers are dismantled;
The hinge pin is untwisted and pressed out using a special tool;
The bolts from the hinges and nuts are removed.
After this, you have the opportunity to examine the part for damage and make appropriate repairs. Regardless of whether you plan to replace the bearings, you should change the seals.

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The inner race along with the rollers must be thoroughly washed with kerosene after removal. After this, you will be able to visually assess the bearing damage. It is worth remembering that these parts are replaced only in pairs.

There is no possibility of adjusting the backlash using a nut (tightening does not help);
The rollers and clips are heavily scratched;
Overheating is detected and a hum is observed.

If you observe one of these signs, you need to get new bearings for your Chevrolet Niva. Otherwise, only the lubricant and oil seal need to be changed. Pressing occurs using special nozzles. Do not throw away the old clip, as you will need it to install the new part. If difficulties arise, you can always find one of the many videos on the Internet that demonstrate this process.

For repairs you will need:

Powerful socket wrench 30.
Puller for steering rod pin.
A mandrel for pressing out a bearing or a piece of pipe of suitable diameter.
A set of spanners or ratchet sockets.
Balloon wrench.
Hammer.
Round nose pliers.
Jack.
Wheel chocks.
Vise.
Mount.
Torque wrench.
Boards or wooden block.

The replacement process is divided into five stages:

Disconnecting the assembly (brake disc, hub and steering knuckle) from the CV joint strut.
Pressing out old bearings.
Installation of new parts.
Assembling the unit and installing it in place.
Tightening the adjusting nut.

Work is carried out on a level area. The presence of an inspection hole is not necessary.

To change bearings, you must perform the following steps:

Place the car on the site and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Jack up the wheel.
Unscrew the wheel rim mounting bolts.
Build an improvised support under the side member from a wheel with boards or timber laid on it and lower the jack so that the car rests on it.
Jack up the lower arm, compressing the suspension spring.
Turn the steering wheel to the right or left (depending on the side from which the replacement is performed).
Unscrew and remove the caliper, caliper and brake pads.
Hang the caliper so that it does not put any weight on the brake hose.
Turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Unscrew and unscrew the tie rod nut.
Remove the pin using a puller.

Unscrew the hub nut.
Remove the ball joint mounting bolts.
Carefully remove the hub along with the steering knuckle, ball joints and brake disc.
Remove the caliper protective screen.
Remove the brake disc.
Unscrew the steering arm.
Clamp the steering knuckle in a vice.
Remove the seals with a pry bar or a powerful screwdriver.
Substituting the mandrel, knock out the outer races of the bearings.
Wipe and clean the seat.
Disassemble new bearings.
Press the outer races into the hub using a mandrel or old parts.

Apply lubricant, filling ⅔ of the space in the cage.
Install the bearing race and inner race.
Carefully press in the new oil seal.
Repeat the installation operation for the bearing on the second side of the hub.
Place the assembly on the CV joint splines.
Tighten the hub nut.
Screw on the ball joints and steering bipod.
Install the protective cover and caliper bracket.
Tighten the bolts securing the protective screen and lock.
Put the caliper and brake pads in place.
Jack up the car.
Place and secure the wheel.
Tighten the hub nut by tapping the wheel in the 6 and 12 o'clock directions.

Detailed video about replacing wheel bearings

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdXcXbHjaRI

Detailed video about replacing wheel bearings

Necessary tool

Before you start work, you need to prepare all the tools and assemble them in one place:

Special puller for bearing removal.
Collar.
Head at "30".
Keys or sockets for “17” and “19”.
Mandrel for knocking out the hub.
New wheel bearings.

The tool is assembled and ready to use

Preparatory work

Make sure that the workplace is well lit, and it is best if it is on a viewing hole or a lift. Because this is the only way to talk about high convenience when carrying out such work. It would also be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the detailed diagram of the location of the bearing on the front hub of the VAZ-2112.

Thanks to this illustration, the diagram becomes very clear.

Step-by-step work order

First of all, we place the car in a stationary state, put on the handbrake, and, if desired, install wheel chocks. And while the car is on the surface, we tear off all the bolts on the front wheels.

We unscrew the torn bolts and put them aside. We remove the wheel.

Next, we need to use a “30” wrench to unscrew the hub nut

Please note that during its dismantling, you will have to press the brake pedal, and for this we will need an assistant. Then, using a screwdriver, press out the calipers. When this operation is completed, having the key at “17” at hand, unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles.

Then, using a screwdriver, press out the calipers. When this operation is completed, having the key at hand at “17”, unscrew the calipers from the steering knuckles.

Carefully unscrew the brake disc from the hub.
Then, making gentle blows, we release the hub.
And then the CV joint from the bearing.

Replacing the wheel bearing

Then, when access to the hub bearing is completely open, there are several ways to replace it.

First way

In this case, it is necessary to have a special puller to remove the bearing.

First you need to take care of removing the stopper.
Using this device, you simply remove the old bearing and install a new one in its place.
After this, we carry out the entire assembly process in the same order as removal.

The advantages of this method include the fact that during this work there is no need to touch the wheel alignment bolt, therefore, you will not have to add additional work.
The disadvantages of this method include inconvenience during the process. Because you have to contrive and take an extremely uncomfortable position.

Second way

To carry out this work, it is necessary to carefully dismantle the steering knuckle and completely remove the hub.

Moving to the workbench, we replace the wheel bearing.
To do this, dismantle the retaining ring and knock the bearing out of its seat, or press it out.
Next, we perform the installation in reverse order, having previously cleaned the surface of the hub.

Advice! Before you begin removing the alignment bolts, mark their position with a marker or chalk. In this case, the marks should indicate the current position of the bolt on the rack and the previous location of the knuckles. Thanks to such marks, during assembly it will be much easier to navigate the position of these bolts. Although it will not be possible to return to the previous state, it will still be possible to minimize it.

Putting marks

We put marks.
We knock out all the bolts from the fist.
Remove the mounting bolts on the lower ball joint.
This will knock the bearing out of the hub.
Remove the retaining rings.
Press out the bearing.
We mount a new bearing, having previously cleaned the space of the hub and generously coated its surface.

This repair method will be very effective when not only the wheel bearing is subject to repair, but also most of the VAZ-2112 chassis. Such elements include the replacement of steering tips, silent blocks of levers and ball joints.

Third way

To perform work using this method, it is necessary to remove the entire rack completely.

The stand has been dismantled.

Next, using a vice, we replace the wheel bearing.
Because this is how the replacement will happen quickly and efficiently.

After dismantling the bearings, we install everything in the reverse order, assemble the rack and mount it on the car.

Do we make the puller ourselves or buy it?

If you do not want to knock out the bearing, you can purchase a special puller in stores, since the entire process of working with such a device becomes easier and the time required for work is reduced. This also applies to bearing installation work.

Hand-made hub puller

Replacing the front wheel bearing on a Niva Chevrolet

Tools:

Straight box spanner 13 mm
Straight box spanner 17 mm
Straight box spanner 19 mm
Straight box spanner 27 mm
Small hammer
Chisel
Beard
Driver for 3/4 socket bit
Knob attachment 13 mm
Knob attachment 17 mm
Knob attachment 19 mm
Knob attachment 27 mm
Rolling jack

Parts and consumables:

Front wheel hub bearings 4pcs
Litol-24 lubricant
Kerosene
Container for washing parts

External signs of the need to remove bearings for troubleshooting are: - increased noise when the wheel rotates; — the impossibility of adjusting to achieve the nominal clearance in the bearings.

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

1. Raise the front of the car and remove the wheel.

It is more convenient to work on a lift. It is permissible to work on a vehicle raised by a jack on supports, taking the necessary precautions.

2. Disconnect the caliper from the pad guide, as described here, and tie them with wire to the upper arm.

3. Unscrew the adjusting nut of the hub bearings, as described here.

4. Take out the conical bushing.

5. Using a chisel, unbend the edge of the locking plate of the nut for the front attachment of the lever to the steering knuckle.

6. Similarly, loosen the rear fastening nut.

7. Using a 19mm spanner, unscrew the nut for the rear mounting of the lever to the steering knuckle.

8. Unscrew the front fastening nut in the same way.

9. Remove the locking plate.

10. Having removed the lever from the bolts, move it away from the steering knuckle.

11. Disconnect the brake hose from the steering knuckle as described here.

12. Disconnect the fastening of the upper and lower ball joints from the arms.

13. From the splines of the front wheel drive outer joint housing, remove the steering knuckle assembly with ball joints, hub assembly and brake disc.

14. Disconnect the steering knuckle and the hub with the brake disc.

15. If it is difficult to separate the parts, clamp the steering knuckle in a vice and use a soft metal drift to knock out the hub.

16. Now you can remove the bolts securing the lever to the steering knuckle.

17. To separate the hub and brake disc, screw the nut onto the stud and knock out the stud.

18. Unscrew the nut and remove the stud.

19. Similarly, dismantle the other four studs.

20. Disconnect the hub and brake disc.

21. Use a chisel to knock down the dirt ring.

22. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the protective casing.

23. Remove the casing.

24. To dismantle the seals and hub bearings, clamp the steering knuckle in a vice. Use a screwdriver to pry off the seal.

25. Remove the oil seal.

26. Remove the ring.

27. Remove the inner ring of the outer bearing with the cage and rollers.

28. Similarly, remove the oil seal, ring and inner ring of the other (inner) bearing with a cage and rollers.

29. Using a punch, knock out the outer ring of the outer bearing.

30. Take out the ring.

40. Similarly, we knock out the outer ring of the inner bearing.

Inspect the raceways of the inner and outer rings of the bearings, as well as the running surfaces of the rollers. Pitting, visible wear of cages, rollers and rings, as well as cavities and chips on rollers and rings are not allowed.

Be sure to replace defective bearings together with the outer rings.

Replace the outer and inner bearings at the same time.

41. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

42. Before installing the bearings, clean the inner cavity of the steering knuckle from old grease.

43. Using a tool head of a suitable size or a piece of pipe, press in the outer rings of the bearings.

Use the outer rings of the corresponding replaced (old) bearings as mandrels. It is more convenient to press in the rings using a press.

Insufficient pressing or distortion of the ring is not allowed. Check that the rings are securely seated in the hub body. The rings should not turn by hand.

44. Place 40 g of Litol-24 lubricant into the cavity of the steering knuckle and into the bearing separators.

45. Using a tool head of a suitable size or a piece of pipe, press in the seals.

46. Having installed the mud ring, use a chisel to press the metal of the ring into the groove of the steering knuckle in several places.

47. Having connected the brake disc to the hub, press in the studs with a soft metal drift.

48. The milled surface of the stud heads must face the cylindrical surface of the brake disc.

The Chevrolet Niva deservedly enjoys great popularity both among city residents and among off-road enthusiasts. It is one of the few that allows you to drive over the most rugged terrain.

Replacing the front wheel bearings of a Niva Chevrolet is done a little more often, as on other SUVs, which is explained by the operating conditions of such vehicles. Severe road conditions lead to excessive load on the car suspension, so it is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition of the car and, if problems arise, make a timely replacement, without waiting for the period recommended by the manufacturer.

Raise the front of the car with a jack so that the front wheels do not touch the ground. If the right or left side is not raised completely, the stabilizer will put pressure on the machine and this can become a serious obstacle.

Place chocks under the rear wheels.
remove the hub nut cap using a screwdriver.
put the wheel back in place

it is necessary to loosen the hub nut. First you need to loosen it a little; for this you can use a piece of pipe to apply sufficient force.
Remove the wheel and use a screwdriver to release the pads.

After this, the mounting bolts on the caliper are removed. Before this, you need to straighten the locking tendrils. The caliper rises up. To ensure that the brake hose does not interfere with operation, you can attach it to the spring.

The brake disc is selected using a hammer. To do this, you need to tap a little around the perimeter.
In order to remove the finger you need a special puller. The location of the adjusting bolt is marked on the steering rod. When the finger is pressed out, the rod is retracted to the side.
The fasteners are removed from the steering knuckle.

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In order to connect the wheel to the shaft, a hub is installed in the vehicle structure. While driving, this wheel assembly is most subject to loads and wear. Over time, the backlash increases and axial vibration of the wheel appears. The reason for this may be the Niva Chevrolet wheel bearing and this problem can be solved simply by tightening the wheel nut. But any part does not last forever, so over time, tightening may not help and the wheel will stop rotating and a complete replacement will be required.

To work, you will need an indicator and a torque wrench.

To prepare for adjusting the wheel bearing, you must perform the following operations:

Secure the indicator by resting its leg on the hub near the adjusting nut.
Place spanners on the studs and secure them with nuts.
Rotate the hub and move it axially. (Screwed spanners are used as handles).
Measure the amount of axial movement (clearance) of the hub, guided by the indicator readings.
If the stroke exceeds 0.15 mm, adjust the play.

The adjustment is carried out as follows:

Straighten the collar of the nut.
Unscrew it with a spanner.
Install a new nut and tighten with a force of 2 kgf*m.

Loosen the nut and tighten again with a torque of 0.7 kgf*m.
Loosen the tension by turning the key 20-25 degrees counterclockwise.
Check hub play.
Make sure that the indicator readings correspond to the norm (0.02-0.08 mm).
Lock the nut by pressing its edge into the groove of the outer CV joint.

You can adjust the hub play without using a torque wrench. To do this you need:

Tighten the nut tightly.
Rotate the wheel a few turns.
Check the play.
If necessary, loosen or tighten the nut slightly.
Continue until the free play of the hub is within 0.02-0.08 mm.
Lock the nut collar.

Video instructions for adjusting the wheel bearing You can install non-adjustable IVECO bearings on the Chevy Niva. To do this, you need to buy the appropriate hubs or remake the old ones. For the rework you will need a jig boring machine. In addition to boring the mounting hole, you will have to make spacer rings. Drawings of parts are provided at the link.

The design of the rear wheel mounting of the Chevrolet Niva is very different. However, they also use bearings that need periodic replacement. They are replaced either together with the axle shafts or separately. The second option is much cheaper, but requires good metalworking skills and a torch to heat the metal.

To work you will need:

Jack, wheel wrench, chisel, hammer.
Standard set of screwdrivers and wrenches.
Axle puller.
Gas (gasoline) burner or muffle furnace.
Repair kit including bearing, oil seal and retaining ring.
A pipe with a diameter of 40-45 mm, the length of which exceeds the size of the axle shaft.

Niva Chevrolet wheel bearings are subject to heavy loads during operation. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor their condition and change parts in a timely manner. Otherwise, the risk of a collision due to a seized bearing increases.

Replacement of bearings is carried out as follows:

Place the machine on a level surface.
Place wheel chocks or bricks under the front wheels.
Jack up the car.
Remove the wheel.
Place a support under the rear axle.
Unscrew the brake drum mount.
Dismantle the part.
Unscrew the nuts holding the bearing.
Load the rear axle by lowering it onto the stand.
Pull out the axle shaft using a puller.
Hang the brake mechanism on a wire.
Knock down the retaining ring using a chisel, hammer and grinder.
Crack the bearing races using a chisel.
Remove rust and dirt from the seating surface.
Put the new bearing in place.
Heat the locking ring to 200-250 degrees (dark red color) and hammer it into the seat with a pipe
Replace the oil seal.

Diagnostics

In the absence of a special stand, you can identify the problem

To do this, with precautions, hang up the supposedly faulty wheel. And then grab the extreme points in the horizontal and vertical planes and make swinging movements

A serviceable bearing has no play or it is insignificant, requiring replacement, on the contrary. In addition, when turning, you can hear rolling or cracking sounds. What then? It is necessary to change the wheel bearing yourself, because there is no talk of adjustment.

To replace the front wheel bearing in the field, it is necessary to remove the front axle brake calipers. Why you should:

Hang up and unscrew the wheel;
Using a chisel, knock the cap off the hub;

Using pliers, remove the cotter pin located on the lower axis of the clamping lever;

Carefully remove the axis of the clamping lever with a metalworker's drift and then remove it with pliers;

Using a flat-head screwdriver, having previously removed the clamping lever and springs, remove the brake caliper from its seat and place it behind the steering knuckle in such a way as not to interfere with the further process (hang it).

Removing the hub

To do this, dismantle the conical bushing.

Unlocking the nuts is done by gently tapping them through a chisel.

After which, using a size 19 wrench, the rear and front clamps of the lever to the knuckle are unscrewed sequentially,

not forgetting to get rid of the locking plate.

Then, using the keys “17” and “10”, as well as a flat screwdriver, the brake circuit hoses are removed from the steering knuckle.

Having placed the stop under the lever from below, use two “13” keys to unscrew the nut located on the bolt that secures the ball mount to the upper lever. Unscrew 2 more nuts in the same way. And take the knot to the side.

The lower ball joint is also dismantled.

When the part is freed from the fastenings, holding the steering knuckle with both hands together with the hub, brake disc, upper and lower ball joints, it is removed.

When separating parts, it may be necessary to clamp the steering knuckle in a vice, after which the hub is knocked out without extra effort.

Next, the bolts securing the steering knuckle to the lever are removed.

The brake disc is knocked out by screwing the nuts onto the stud, followed by concentrated blows to the resulting structure.

The result of the work at this stage: the brake system disc and hub are separated from each other.

They hook up the ring that protects against dirt, after which, using a “10” key, remove the casing that protects the steering knuckle.

Replacing the wheel bearing

The steering knuckle is placed in a vice, then the seal (oil seal) is removed with a straight-slotted screwdriver.

Next, the ring with the separator as part of the inner ring is pulled out sequentially. The bearing components are removed from the inside in a similar manner.

Pay attention to the side of the outer bearing and remove the outer ring from there with a punch. The same manipulations are typical for the opposite outer ring

Disassembly is complete. Parts are defective and then, if necessary, replaced with new ones, components are cleaned of old lubricant, and filled with a new compound. It is recommended to use Castrol LMX universal grease for bearing joints and spline units. Assembly - in the reverse order using suitable pipe sections for pressing in bearings, oil seals, etc.

Adjustment

Having restored the structure until the calipers with pads are returned to their place, a dial indicator clamp is placed on the steering knuckle. The indicator is positioned so that its leg rests against the adjusting nut.

Having built a lever on studs, the mechanism smoothly rotates around its axis.

If the permissible gap exceeds 0.15 mm, the adjusting nut is replaced with a new one. By successively changing the degree of twisting, the clearance in the bearings is measured. At the end of the work, the nut is locked.

Unregulated

As a rule, the Niva has a standard adjustable hub, which requires periodic adjustment. But in order to get rid of this inconvenience, non-adjustable hubs for the Chevrolet Niva were developed, which have such positive qualities as:

No maintenance required. They don't need to be adjusted
The bearing in the device does not rotate
It is filled with special lubricant from the factory, so there is no need to lubricate it.
Due to the fact that the work occurs thanks to the ball bearing in the unit, friction is reduced
There is no wear on the seat in the rotary cam
Not adjustable as it is tightened from the factory
No need to change the bearing
Long service life which is equal to 100-120 thousand kilometers

Therefore, thanks to all the positive characteristics listed above, many car owners change the standard part to a non-adjustable one.

It is also worth noting that the non-adjustable part can be produced as a reinforced Niva Chevrolet hub, which solves the problem of wear of the oil seals on the steering knuckle. It is best to choose companies such as VolgaAvtoprom, IVECO, OmegaInterAuto.

The main disadvantage of this unit is its high price, but by installing this part you can forget about the problems that appear in the standard element. By installing a reinforced version of your SUV, the cross-country ability will increase and reliability will increase, and having a standard set of tools, you can make an independent replacement without any problems.

Algorithm of actions

Ever since designs with double-row bearings appeared, everything has gone wild. Let's put everything in a row. I know of about 5 different designs, and perhaps only one does not cause serious complaints about its performance. Now a specific algorithm of actions. If you are lucky and your standard unit has traveled more than 20-30 thousand km, the car has a roll and only needed tension adjustment, then you have coaxially bored knuckles. Install good Russian or German bearings and good hubs as needed and ride on, happily ever after

The most important and important thing is that the Niva wheel bearing must have a steel cage. If you are unlucky and the wheel bearings are a “consumable material”, or regardless of replacement, the car does not roll - you have misaligned knuckles and then it is better to think about other designs, since you have nothing to lose

There is an article on the website about the option with a wheel bearing from an IVEKO truck.

Replacing the axle bearing

First of all, you should pay attention that when replacing a bearing, you need to install not only it, but also new axle shaft seals and new retaining rings. For cars with and without ABS, the locking rings are different - on cars without an anti-lock braking system, the axle locking ring has a smooth surface, and on cars with ABS, the locking ring is splined. It is impossible to confuse them. We assemble tools and accessories:

Bulgarian.
Standard set of tools and screwdrivers.
Inertia axle puller.

Inertia axle puller.

New set - oil seal, retaining ring and bearing.

The tool has been selected and the axle shaft can now be removed. This is done in the following sequence:

We place the car on a flat surface and install wheel chocks under the front wheels.
We tear off the wheel mount, jack up the car, and install a stand under the rear axle.
Remove the wheel and unscrew the brake drum mounting screws.

We unscrew the bolts securing the brake drum to the axle shaft.

We knock down the brake drum using a wooden block.

We unscrew the four nuts of the axle bearing mounting plate bolts.

We remove the axle shaft using an inertial puller.

When removing the axle shaft, you need to try not to damage the oil seal if there is no desire or need to change it. After this, the entire brake mechanism is suspended from the spring using a wire.

Another element that experiences heavy loads while driving is the Niva Chevrolet axle bearing. Which are recommended to be changed along with the axle.

A symptom that this part needs to be replaced is the appearance of loud noise at any speed, as well as the appearance of axial and radial play. This part is not in short supply and can be purchased at any auto store, its factory part number is 2121-2403080, the analogue has part number 62208-2RS, and the industrial part is 180508.

To make the replacement, first of all you need to remove the axle itself and do the following:

To remove the retaining ring with the bearing, take a vice and clamp the axle shaft in it
We take a grinder and cut the stopper and bearing in several places, this must be done carefully so as not to touch the axle shaft
Take a chisel and split the retaining ring and bearing
We remove rust and dirt from the ring and bearing seats
We take the pipe and use it to press the new bearing into place; during these actions, we must not allow the cage to rotate
We take a blowtorch and use it to heat the locking ring until red and use pliers to install it in its place
We wait until the axle shaft cools down, while it cools down in the brake flap we replace the oil seal

Also interesting: Instructions for rewinding the mileage of NIVA 4x4 URBAN with ABS

After everything has been changed, you need to check the transmission oil level in the rear axle. At this point, all replacement work can be considered completed. As you can see, all the work can be done independently without the participation of a specialist; it is enough to have a little knowledge and a standard set of tools.

To remove the retaining ring with the bearing, take a vice and clamp the axle shaft in it
We take a grinder and cut the stopper and bearing in several places, this must be done carefully so as not to touch the axle shaft
Take a chisel and split the retaining ring and bearing
We remove rust and dirt from the ring and bearing seats
We take the pipe and use it to press the new bearing into place; during these actions, we must not allow the cage to rotate
We take a blowtorch and use it to heat the locking ring until red and use pliers to install it in its place
We wait until the axle shaft cools down, while it cools down in the brake flap we replace the oil seal

First changes and Lada 4x4

Since the mid-nineties, or more precisely since 1995, changes began to be made to the design of the car. Firstly, if previously the car had a 1.6-liter 4-cylinder 73-horsepower gasoline engine, now the volume has been increased to 1.7. The manual transmission now had five steps instead of the previous four. Secondly, they changed the dashboard, installed more comfortable seats in the cabin, and replaced the taillights with more modern ones in order to externally try to get closer to the Western automobile industry.

In 2006, “Niva” was officially renamed “Lada” 4x4, and models exported were called “Lada Taiga” 4x4 - this is what the car is now called in European countries. Externally and internally, the car has changed, if at all, only slightly: new mirrors have appeared - larger ones, the indicators and instruments on the panel have been changed. The new car model released in 2015 called “Lada 4x4 Urban”, which is considered “luxury”, did not receive any major changes - except for new bumpers, electric windows and air conditioning in the cabin.

Choosing a new bearing.

A new part is selected based on the conditions in which the car will be used. For most situations, Niva 2121 bearings manufactured at the VAZ plant are suitable. If the car is used mainly for off-road driving, it is better to use more durable elements. Parts produced by Triali have very good performance.

During production, this vehicle is equipped with double-row bearings. They have a longer service life and do not require additional lubrication.

Experienced car mechanics know that it is better to choose a bearing that is completely identical to what was before. It would be good if it was an item with the original box and logo. Such parts often correspond to their counterparts that were originally supplied to the assembly line. The price of the bearing is not always affordable, because they are produced in a limited batch for a batch of cars.

But there are other bearing models whose characteristics are in no way inferior to the original ones. And the cost of non-original bearings is lower only due to the use of a different brand. Here are just a few bearing suppliers that have become popular in today's automotive market.

SNR – French company;
SKF is one of the largest manufacturers in the world;
FAG is a German manufacturer, one of the largest companies;
NSK - from Japan;
NTN is another representative of the Land of the Rising Sun.

Manufacturers from Japan often deliver their parts directly to the assembly line. Therefore, practically nothing is known about them on the regular spare parts market. You can ignore the country of origin in the case of the companies mentioned above. It often lists one of many offices and branches around the world.

If a bearing manufacturer is allowed onto the assembly line, this is already confirmation that a strict selection process has been passed in the first stages. This means that the quality system meets the stringent requirements for manufacturers and their parts.

Volga auto industry hub in comparison

20 comparisons of Volga AvtoProm hubs with other manufacturers are available on PartReview.

In particular, you can find out whose hubs are better:

Patron or Volga AvtoProm,

NTN or Volga AvtoProm,

Also interesting: Home > Popular > Auto and motorcycle products > "Niva LED headlights" 3,813 products found

Koyo or Volga AvtoProm,

Volga AvtoProm or LEDO,

LYNXauto or Volga AutoProm.

Generator bearing: replacement recommendations

The following recommendations are given for replacing the Niva Chevrolet generator bearing:

The first step is to remove the generator itself. First, the generator mounts are loosened, then the adjustment bolt is released. The next steps are to remove the belt and disconnect the ground from the battery. We are talking about the negative terminal. It is also necessary to disconnect the wires from the generator itself. The structure is removed through the lower part. Why does the mount itself unscrew?

After this, the master begins to disassemble the generator. The first step is to remove the pulley. The owner will need a screwdriver to lock the rotor. The main thing is a careful approach to work. The pulley is unscrewed with the appropriate key. You will need to pull back the latches to remove the cover. The part is pulled towards itself. All connections with bolts are additionally processed. Then it will be easier to unscrew them.
The next steps are to unscrew the screws and remove the voltage regulator unit. You also need to get rid of brushes for a while. The generator cover is disconnected from the starter, otherwise it will not be possible to gain access to the bearings themselves. The main thing is not to damage the winding during such work.
After complete disassembly of the generator, access to the bearings becomes available. It remains to check the parts for any defects that have appeared, including cracks and chips. Do the parts rotate easily? Is there any play between them? The seats may suffer from wear, so they also need to be inspected.
Next, you need to knock the bearing out of its seat. To do this, tap the surface with a small hammer. The blows must be strong, but careful, otherwise the result will not be achieved. A piece of pipe of the appropriate size will make an excellent stand. Removing the rear bearings is impossible unless a special puller is used.
The properties of old and new parts must remain similar. The same attachment is used when pressing into the body. The anchor is where the rear bearing is installed.
When reassembling, proceed in reverse order.

Below watch a video on how to disassemble and repair a Niva generator.

Removing the gearbox is a mandatory step for those who are interested in replacing a Chevrolet Niva release bearing that has failed. The work is labor-intensive, because you have to remove the drive shaft. It's good to have an assistant.

The following procedure is relevant when replacing the clutch mechanism:

Installing the car on the inspection hole and removing parts;
Removing the gearbox;
If it is necessary to replace the bearing, the part is pulled out. Its base must be disengaged from the fork. The plug is removed from the structure, then the part is easy to remove.

The main difficulties are associated with removing the gearbox. Replacing a bearing is an operation that takes no more than 10 minutes. Before installing a new part, it is recommended to lubricate it thoroughly. The quality of the material used determines how durable the structure will be in the future.