Replacing a wheel bearing: a step-by-step process for replacing the rear and front bearings with your own hands at home

The main signs of wheel bearing failure

There are the following signs by which you can recognize that there is a malfunction in the wheel bearing:

• The occurrence of wheel play, no matter what - lateral or along the axle. This problem can be accompanied either by uneven wear of the tire tread, or when driving straight, the car constantly moves to the side, or the steering wheel begins to beat, as is the case with insufficiently correct wheel balancing;
• The presence of a hum (noise) in the hub area that changes its tone depending on the speed at which the car is moving. Due to inexperience, drivers may attribute such sounds to violations in wheel alignment adjustments or attribute them to a special reaction of the tire treads.

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Comments 13

I tightened it with a torque wrench and set it to 200 n.m. According to the book from 190 to 210

Here. Thanks a lot)))

On P2 they are adjustable and loosening is necessary so that the bearing has a slight play, which will disappear when it warms up during movement, otherwise it will “burn out” and jam, the service life will decrease quickly. And here I think about the tightening torque of the CV joint (you can look at the approximate tightening torque on other brands by analogy). And so, of course, you don’t have to pull to break off the CV joint or rip off the nut))), but you already have to be a jock or have a 3 meter wrench)).

On P2 it was written to tighten with a certain force and then unscrew by 10 or 20 degrees) but who knows, you need to read the book)

Tighten it as much as possible, it’s not scary.

the maximum can be different, but it’s probably still too much, it’s completely impossible, then there is a certain amount of force with which to tighten it.

On the second generation of sports it is not adjustable, if you have play that you can feel with your hands, then just change it. I changed it for myself, installed the original on one side of the hub assembly, and then slowly bought the original bearing, disassembled the old hub and pressed in a new bearing, and then changed the other side. By the way, the bearing is KOYO in the original, if that :). I bought the hub for 6300 rubles (maybe more expensive now), and the bearing was about 3 thousand.

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Correct wheel bearing diagnosis

The sequence of actions must correspond to the following algorithm:

• The wheel to be diagnosed is removed so that it can rotate freely. In this case, the car is either placed on a lift, or a working jack is used;
• You have to spin the wheel to make it clear. That its rotation is free. There are cases where noise occurs, the cause of which is insufficient brake release of the wheel, while well pads rub against the drum or disk;
• You need to rock the wheel, taking it by both edges, upper and lower, both towards you and away from you. After which the procedure is resumed after a ninety-degree turn is made.

When play is detected, a check is made to see how the hub nuts are tightened. This is where a large-levered crank comes in handy. In addition to being designed to withstand high forces, the size of its socket head is considered to be the most suitable.

You will also need a technical specification for automotive equipment indicating the tightening torque for the bearing nut.

Actions are carried out in the following sequence:

• The nut cap is removable for protection;
• If there is a cotter pin, it must be removed;
• While driving, an assistant must press the brake device to secure the wheel;

Using a prepared wrench, the tightening torque force is checked. If the bearing meets specifications but there is still play, the bearing must be replaced.

How hard should you tighten the wheel nut on your car?

For each car, torque standards are established, since the tightening force for the locknut depends on the following factors: - Bearing dimensions; — Regulated axial clearance; — Diameter and thread pitch; The following are the force indicators for properly tightening the nut. The database will be gradually replenished.

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on a VAZ (LADA)

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Ford

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on a Chevrolet

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing for Renault

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Daewoo

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Opel

Replacing the hub bearing on the front axle

The general algorithm is the same, with the exception of features in the design of the car:

• The battery device is switched off;
• The bolts on the wheel are loosened;
• Using a lift or shoes with a jack, the front wheel is raised;
• The protective cap at the hub nut is compressed. Then the hose is removed from the drive shaft, more specifically from the threaded cap;
• After the assistant presses the brake, the nut on the hub is unscrewed;
• The wheel is removed;
• The brake caliper is unscrewed from its mounting location so as not to damage the hoses. The part is carefully secured to the body with wire. The hoses must remain free;
• The ABS sensor connector is disconnected;
• The disk is removed after unscrewing the screws;
• The steering tip is disconnected from the rack, then the same is done with the conical tip;
• The stand must be pulled slightly towards you to remove the splined part from the hub;
• Using a puller, you have to remove the hub and the bearing with it;
• The new set is pressed in. A separately made bearing is installed not in the old hub, but in the new one;

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

How to tighten a hub nut without a torque wrench

Many car enthusiasts, when repairing their car, consider it not advisable to purchase torque wrenches or other specialized devices (pullers, etc.). There is a good way to tighten the fastener to the required torque without using a torque gauge. The following devices will be required: 1. Ratchet with a head for a lock nut; 2. Pipe for extending the ratchet to create the required “shoulder”; 3. Roulette; 4. Marker; 5. A weight that can be hung on the “shoulder” (for example, a 32 kg weight).

Replacing the wheel bearing on the rear wheels

The operations are performed in the same way and in the same order as in the case of the front wheels.

The process differs as follows:

• There is no need to disconnect the tie rod;
• There is also no need to dismantle the CV joint;
• In the case of using a press with a lever suspension on the machine, the rack will not be dismantled, but the lever device with the hub will be carried out.

So the procedure in practice turns out to be simpler to perform.

How to tighten the hub nut to the correct torque

To tighten threaded connections, where it is recommended to maintain a certain torque, use special torque wrenches . Inside the tool there is a dynamometer with a scale or a special device with a limiter, which is activated when the required tightening force is reached. Keys also come with value intervals, for example 5-25 (minimum 5 N•m, maximum 25 N•m). The threaded connection is tightened until the arrow shows the required value or the limiter operates. There are also expensive and exact analogues - with an electronic display, but for the operation and repair of passenger cars a mechanical version is suitable.

The photo shows the main types of such keys.

1. With preset torque, not adjustable.

1. With preset torque value, adjustable.

1. With tightening force indicator.

1. With digital display of applied torque.

Watch the video on how to use a torque tool:

Photo instructions for replacing the wheel bearing

Video on the topic

Sources

• https://podtrade.ru/info/articles/stupichnye_podshipniki/
• https://family-auto.ru/stupichnyj-podshipnik/
• https://topdetal.ru/stati/kak_vyyavit_neispravnost_stupichnogo_podshipnika/
• https://zamena-podshipnikov.ru/kak-proverit-peredniy-i-zadniy-stupichniy-podshipnik.html
• https://tire1.ru/prov-stup-podship/
• https://zamena-podshipnikov.ru/zamena-podshipnika-zadney-stupicy.html
• https://AvtoNov.com/%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%B8%D0%B7%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BA%D0%B8-%D0%BD%D0%B5% D0%B8%D1%81%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%BD%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8-%D1%81%D1 %82%D1%83%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B3%D0%BE-%D0%BF/

Features of tapered roller bearings of different sizes

• Minimal natural wear, possible due to the absence of an outer side, and therefore an end stop. With this design, the inner ring self-aligns in relation to the outer ring with virtually no loss of material, which significantly reduces the likelihood of backlash occurring during operation.
• Low coefficient of friction - the above-described circuit is also good because it promotes the appearance of a lubricating film. As a result, the rolling elements glide easier, generate a little heat, maintain preload for a long time, and operate quietly, almost silently.
• Long service life - if we look at the load that a tapered single row roller bearing can support, we will see that it is relatively high. The same situation applies to other types of these subassemblies (more on the variety of their types below). And all thanks to the indirect logarithmic profile, which reduces peak stresses, as well as sensitivity to shaft deflection or misalignment.
• Operational reliability, achievable, among other things, due to carefully calibrated roughness of contact surfaces, which contributes to the appearance of a hydrodynamic film.
• Short running-in period - provided a high-quality lubricant is selected and correct installation, only minor friction is observed. Therefore, in practice, both single and double row tapered bearings do not reach dangerous peak temperatures that can lead to premature wear. The friction-reducing circuit is useful here and immediately, at the very first stage of using the assembly.
• Unification - all rolling elements are made with minimal tolerances, as a result of which they are identical, which means they equally perceive loads that are evenly distributed throughout the entire profile. This is convenient by reducing not only the noise level, but also vibration.
• Possibility of simple adjustment - you can easily eliminate play before it causes the assembly to fail. Below, in a separate section, we will tell you how to tighten cone bearings and, conversely, how to properly loosen the hub nut. And the latter also needs to be done - when the thermal clearances are too small and the rolling resistance is increased.
• Interchangeability - many models are completely dismountable, making it not a problem to install a new outer ring or replace the separator. This greatly simplifies the maintenance of hubs, gears, axle boxes and, in general, all mechanisms in which these components are used.

In addition to the obvious advantages, there are also disadvantages. Among the disadvantages is the rapid failure of individual elements due to axial deformation (bending) of the shaft. Although the advantages still significantly outweigh and determine the popularity of use.

How to check hub runout

Runout in the chassis is associated with problems with the braking system. This is not always fair. If the brake pedal travel is accompanied by vibration, a deformed hub is often the culprit. It’s quite simple to rule out a problem in the disk - just replace it with a known good one or on the opposite side of the machine.

If the runout does not disappear, you need to check the flange. To measure you will need:

1. wrench for unscrewing wheel bolts;
2. tripod on a magnetic platform;
3. dial indicator.

1. Loosen the wheel bolts.
2. Hang the appropriate side of the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Place the indicator stand on the floor. To firmly fix the magnetic platform, it is recommended to place a metal plate.
5. Place the micrometer on a tripod. Place the leg against the flange.
6. Rotate the hub in both directions.

If the indicator deviation is more than 38 microns, the spare part must be replaced. A large runout will lead to vibration of the steering wheel and brake pedal. This reduces driving efficiency and increases axle imbalance. Operation of the vehicle becomes unsafe.

Expert advice when making adjustments

We have collected a number of useful tips from the hub adjustment forums, as well as some expert advice from our website:

1. For tightening, it is recommended to purchase a torque wrench.
2. The use of brute force (hammering) when seating a spare part is unacceptable. There is a high probability of damage to the seat and misalignment of the center axis. Regulation will not work.
3. It is advisable to carry out the adjustment in the warm season, in a heated garage. Low temperature leads to distortion of measurement results.
4. Backlash refers to thermal gaps. It is important to strictly adhere to the tightening torque described in the documentation.
5. Front and rear bearings often differ in design. It is unacceptable to tighten the nuts with the same torque.
6. Vibration of the steering wheel and the car moving away from a straight path do not always indicate increased wear. Before setting the offset, it is important to rule out problems with other vehicle systems.
7. It is recommended to always have a few nuts in stock.
8. Clamp nuts are often found with a plastic retainer to prevent loosening.
9. For accurate measurements, it is recommended to remove the brake caliper. The pads can prop up the disc, distorting the measurement results.
10. Before adjusting the VAZ “Classic” bearing, it is advisable to install a new pressure washer.

How to make adjustments without special equipment? tool

You can set the desired gap without a torque wrench and even without indicator devices. The accuracy of the procedure is lower, but with proper skill the result can be close to the passport one.

Tightening the wheel bearings without a torque wrench:

• This article discusses a tightening method without a torque wrench.
• The method without using an indicator can be seen in the video below.

Adjustment without indicator:

Adjustable and non-adjustable bearing - what's the difference?

The used car chassis parts have different designs. Their maintenance, replacement and characteristics depend on this.

Wheel bearings vary in type. But they are united by components:

1. separating separator;
2. rolling bodies;
3. clips – internal and external.

The fit of the parts is the same: the outer part is fixed motionless, the inner part transmits rotation.

Adjustable bearing and examples of car brands

The design of these parts is classic - two cages, between which rolling bodies are installed. Some models have a separator-separator. There are two types of such nodes:

Single-row conical, paired (hub unit):

Double-row ball, roller (HUB 1 generation) with separate inner ring:

1. require scheduled adjustment of free play;
2. dry design requires pre-lubrication;
3. Only work with insulating seals is allowed.

Setting the amount of radial displacement is done by correctly tightening the wheel bearings.

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Unregulated - description and examples of car brands

Late-year car models are equipped with unregulated systems and, more often than not, not even maintained. The gap between the components is compensated by the preload and tightening torque of the hub nut.

Modifications HUB 2, 3 are combined with a hub base. This solution simplifies operation, but setting the offset is not provided - the entire element must be replaced. Some options have a splined groove for the drive axle.

Unregulated pairs are installed (example):

Application of tapered bearings

Most often they are used in the following mechanisms:

• wheel hubs (hubs) of automobile transport (both passenger and industrial), as well as agricultural special equipment;
• spindles of various machines;
• steering columns, car differentials, gearbox shafts;
• power take-off gearboxes.

Some models may be specifically designed for high speeds and axial loads, others are designed only for low ones, and others are generally used where full rotations of the moving parts of the mechanisms are not needed. The variety available today from Fersa, NTN, FAG, KOYO, SNF and other manufacturers allows us to satisfy all needs.