How to make the door open easily on a Priora

March 03, 2015 Lada.Online 95 562 3

Some owners, after purchasing a LADA car, notice malfunctions in the operation of the doors. For example, the back door doesn't open well. You can cope with the problem yourself by adjusting the locks and door geometry. The defect can also be corrected under warranty from an authorized dealer.

Malfunctions that owners of LADA cars (and other car brands) encounter when the door locks are not adjusted:

• the door does not open or close;
• the door closes/opens poorly (tight);
• large gaps between the door and the body (water gets into the cabin, rattling and whistling appear at speed).

Door adjustment on all LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina Niva 4x4) is performed in the same way. There are no fundamental differences.

Lada Priora. Doors open with great effort

September 12, 2013, 5:31 pm #1
Hello everyone, the doors have become difficult to open, only the front ones, the rear ones are easier. The pens are european. I lubricated the hinges with VD 40 just in case, but it didn’t help, and in my opinion it’s not their fault. If you pull the handle alone, it seems like it’s going to fly out, you have to place your thumb STRONGLY on the rim of the handle and, as luck would have it, the front passenger one is the tightest. Today I sprayed some VD into the crack of the handle itself and it seemed a little easier (and apparently not for long). Many people have this problem, but I haven’t found any solutions other than lithol, oil and other lubricants. Can you tell me anything else?

Chevrolet Captiva Lada Priora Hatch

12 September 2013, 18:36 #2

My Priora is a year old. And I had it on the passenger door after the winter. I lubricated the hinges with oil. It helped.

Is your door itself difficult to move or does the lock not open well? If the drive from the handle is poorly adjusted, remove the trim and do it. If it’s on the hinges, pour oil on it and open and close it. Then wash off the excess oil.

12 September 2013, 18:43 #3

Valery 21124, September 12, 2013, 18:36, #2

My Priora is a year old. And I had it on the passenger door after the winter. I lubricated the hinges with oil. It helped.

Is your door itself difficult to move or does the lock not open well? If the drive from the handle is poorly adjusted, remove the trim and do it. If it’s on the hinges, pour oil on it and open and close it. Then wash off the excess oil.

The shutter itself is on the outside, unscrew it and you will see the pin is beveled half the diameter, it turns on the axis and the handle does not open well!

September 12, 2013, 21:45 #4

C181, 12 September 2013, 17:31, #1

Hello everyone, the doors have become difficult to open, only the front ones, the rear ones are easier. The pens are european. I lubricated the hinges with VD 40 just in case, but it didn’t help, and in my opinion it’s not their fault. If you pull the handle alone, it seems like it’s going to fly out, you have to place your thumb STRONGLY on the rim of the handle and, as luck would have it, the front passenger one is the tightest. Today I sprayed some VD into the crack of the handle itself and it seemed a little easier (and apparently not for long). Many people have this problem, but I haven’t found any solutions other than lithol, oil and other lubricants. Can you tell me anything else?

Source

Standard handles for Priora - article number and price

So, the emerging controversy around the two types of Lada Priora door handles arises from the fact that the new version has several noticeable disadvantages:

Euro pens

These elements for Priora are sold as a set, article number tun-2170.evr1. Manufacturer: TuneAuto. There are a lot of analogues on the market, so before purchasing, make sure that you choose the right manufacturer - those companies that produce analogues may, of course, have the same paint (color) names, but at first glance the difference in shades may be obvious.

floor screed in an old house

The cost of the kit is from 1,100 to 1,500 rubles. You can often find discounts on the entire set.

Old style

For the pre-restyling Priora, handles from the VAZ-2110 were supplied. This external part is simpler and less likely to break. The article number for the right one is 21100-6105150-00, for the left one - 21100-6105151-00, their cost is just above 200 rubles. In general, even for the “ten” they make European pens.

How to make the door on a Priora close easily

03 March 2015 Lada.Online 86 937 3

Some owners, after purchasing a LADA car, notice malfunctions in the operation of the doors. For example, the back door doesn't open well. You can cope with the problem yourself by adjusting the locks and door geometry. The defect can also be corrected under warranty from an authorized dealer.

Malfunctions that owners of LADA cars (and other car brands) encounter when the door locks are not adjusted:

Door adjustment on all LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina Niva 4x4) is performed in the same way. There are no fundamental differences.

Rear door adjustment

You should first check all door gaps (bottom, top and sides). Most often, doors are difficult to open due to incorrect geometry, for example, the upper part of the rear door of the car fits too tightly to the body and drain. To adjust this gap:

If there is a need to adjust the bottom of the door , then you will have to:

To make the process more clear, we recommend watching a video that shows the process of fitting Renault doors at the Russian plant:

As a result, all gaps between the doors and the body must be equal, and the doors themselves must not protrude or fall into the body. The front doors are adjusted in the same way.

When adjusting the door this way, do not use force, otherwise the door may be damaged!

Why doesn't the driver's door open on the Lada Priora?

Currently, many car enthusiasts are asking the question: why doesn’t the driver’s door open (despite efforts) on a new or not so Priora? It is worth noting in this regard that all problems mainly arise from the fault of the central locking. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the owners simply do not find the necessary information. The main signs of a malfunction in the locking system installed by the manufacturer on Priora are as follows:

Moreover, car enthusiasts often complain that it is impossible to open the lock with a key, from a key fob or from the inside.

In reality, in about 90 cases out of a hundred, the culprit of the malfunction is the lock installed directly inside the driver's door.

Adjustment on Kalina

Typically, it is necessary to adjust the operation of the lock on this model if there is excessive noise that occurs when closing the doors. It rarely gets to the point where the locking device works poorly. To work, you need a Phillips screwdriver, a wrench and a screwdriver with an asterisk. The work is carried out in the following order:

• Using a screwdriver, loosen the screws securing the clamp. It is secured with two Phillips screws and one sprocket;
• We make adjustments. The shift here is made up or down;
• Tighten the screws in the selected position.

To reduce noise, you can put a silicone cap on the clamp. If this procedure does not help, then it makes sense to tighten the screws securing the door hinges.

Removing the lock on Kalina

Sometimes adjustments don't help. This indicates wear of this mechanism; this often happens when the machine is used intensively. To continue normal operation of the car, it is necessary to change the lock. This is done in the following order:

• The door trim is dismantled;
• Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw securing the base of the handle (inside). After this, carefully remove it from the guide pin;
• The insulating material located in the door is removed;
• The rod is disconnected from the cylinder mechanisms. To do this, press it out using a slotted screwdriver;
• The rod coming from the external handle is disconnected in the same way;
• Using the “8” head, the outer handle is detached;
• The outer handle is removed from the car;
• The lock itself is secured with 3 screws. Older machines use Phillips screws. On newer ones you can find stars;
• The locking drive block retainer moves upward. After that, disconnect the block with wires;
• Using a screwdriver, we disconnect the rod clamp; at the same time, it must be carefully rotated around its own axis. This way you can remove the handle rod (internal);
• The locking mechanism is removed from the door.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Before installing the new lock, be sure to lubricate it. This will extend the life of the mechanism.

Conclusion

. As a rule, car doors sag somewhat over time. This leads to some problems in operating the machine. To eliminate the problem, the door locks on Priora, 2107, 2110 and 2112 are adjusted. This work is not difficult, even a beginner should not have any problems. But sometimes this doesn't help. In this case, you will have to replace the entire lock. For each model, this work is slightly different, but usually, difficulties arise to a minimum.

Peculiarities

Unlike other models coming off the assembly line of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, the Priora does not have a separate control unit on the central lock. Its functions are performed by a single electrical package controller. In addition to this unit, the vehicle protection system installed at production also includes an APS-6 type immobilizer. Thanks to this, the car owner does not need to install an additional security system on his car.

In reality, there are quite a lot of reasons for the central locking malfunction. Problems often arise due to:

If this or that problem occurs, you should pay attention to the window regulators, as well as the adjustment of the mirrors. If they do not function, then, most likely, the failure occurred due to a malfunction of the signal wiring coming from the 5th pin of the driver's door module or from the 5th pin of the HZ terminal, which supplies the controller itself.

How to remove the rear trim on a Priora

If the car has a full power package (front and rear electric windows), the procedure is practically no different from dismantling the front panels. If manual window drives are installed on the rear door trims, proceed according to the following scheme:

Gently apply force with a screwdriver to the plastic elements. They “don’t like” strong pressure.

The casing is freed from attachments, you can begin to dismantle it from the plastic clips. The procedure is the same as for the front door, except there are no screws at the bottom of the trim.

The doors on the Priora are difficult to open

Tell me what could it be? When you pull the handle, it opens very, very tightly, it feels like it’s closed, you also have to slam the door very hard to close, and if you slam it really hard, it seems to close, but when you pull the handle, it opens as if it’s not closed. Does the lock need to be adjusted, or do the door rods need to be changed?

Guys, save me, I've looked all over the forums, there's nothing useful. The problem is that the doors are very difficult to open, namely, you have to put a lot of force on the handle for the lock to open the door. They are Euro-style handles, sometimes you pull them with such force, it seems like you are about to rip it out of the door, you have to jerk it open. where to climb? what to lubricate? what to regulate?

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Take off the lock and spray it liberally, it helped me a lot

Alexander, no, on the contrary, it got worse. I removed all the locks and pulled out the springs to make them close more quietly, and after I sprayed them generously with water, they began to open tightly

VD has drying properties, you wash the lubricant out of there and that’s it, take it apart and lubricate it

WD-40 does not lubricate, but displaces the lubricant. Casting lubricant will help you)))

Maybe tighten the rods? adjust them + lubricate them with something

I installed new handles, they were a little tight, I unscrewed the rods three turns somewhere, and everything became easy, I lubricated them at the same time))

Nikita, it opens from the inside

Anton, my brother had the same problem with Euro pens on 14k. The rods were adjusted and everything was ok.

Nikita, thanks, I'll try it

Anton, maybe he can help

Anton, I had the same problem with the rear doors, on the rods that go to the lock itself there are plastic ends, so unscrew them a little and you will be happy, personally I unscrew them by 5 mm

How to adjust doors on a Priora video

How do Russian cars differ from many foreign-made cars? In order for our car to be able to be properly repaired in the future, modifications should be carried out immediately after purchasing it. AvtoVAZ still managed to create an ordinary comfortable car - the Priora, and this model could not avoid this fate. At the moment, we will talk about the doors, and specifically about their adjustment and minor modifications. Otherwise , you will have to watch how the gap between the door itself and the body begins to grow, how a big rumble is made when closing, etc.

Let's start work with the door . The whole point now is that their design is made very poorly, all the metal elements rattle. To completely get rid of these sounds, we will now have to completely remove the door , and also put standard rubber tubes on their levers.

At first glance, it seems that there is simply nothing to do here, but the effect is amazing, almost all sounds disappear at once. Now, when closing, only a pleasant muffled pop is heard. You need to look at the outside door handles that look too bad. They should be replaced with more beautiful handles. At the next stage, it is necessary to change the inner lining, and also place a special soundproofing material in the inner cavity, as well as a second seal.

[BR-GAVS] DOOR ADJUSTMENT ON PRIOR.

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Priora doors are difficult to open

grant, etc. poor door

.

You can also install additional speakers. You should return to the locks again, they should be adjusted , otherwise they will close very poorly, and then they will even begin to dangle and creak. It is necessary to slightly loosen the tension of all fastening screws of the lock retainer.

It must be moved outward if the door closes very tightly. If we are talking about poor density, then the lock should be pushed inward. If you feel the effect of the car doors lifting while closing, then you can safely move the latch down. If the car has a hatchback or station wagon body, then the trunk door will also have to be adjusted. To do this, you need to find a bracket into which the lock tongue will snap.

The lock should be thoroughly lubricated with special silicone grease. If the lock bolts are tightened properly, but the lock still does not work correctly, then you need to tighten the rubber stops, but you should not tighten them too much, as the door will start to hang loose and always rattle while driving. There is an anti-slip pad under the door. We should check what condition it is in, if it is very thin or there is damage on it, then it needs to be replaced. As a result, unnecessary sounds in the cabin will completely disappear. If you replace doors , then you will have to accurately measure the distances on your body, since a simply purchased door from Priora may not suit you.

Repair of the driver's door interior handle. There is an exit!

Suddenly, Priora began to throw useful content onto the Drive2 pages.
The inside handle of the driver's door is broken. It would seem like a trifle, but getting out of the car seemed like a whole quest. In order to get out, you had to open the glass and reach for the outside handle. I am not as flexible as Alina Kabaeva (although lately I think that she herself has already lost her plasticity) to perform this procedure several times a day, so the decision was made to repair the handle. I took the card off the door.

Unscrewed the inner handle. I saw the hero of the occasion.

Since the path to the lock mechanism is open, I decided to completely dismantle it and clean it of dirt.

Prepared a brush, container, and cleaner. I began to actively remove a layer of dirt from the mechanism.

While working, I saw that one rod fell. Picked it up. I started to put it in place and realized that the retaining ring was missing.

Unpleasant. I definitely don’t have a second stopper like this. I started climbing on my knees, carefully studying every centimeter of the ground, presumably where the stopper could fall.

This is fisco! After grieving a little, I remembered the folk remedy magnet. The most powerful magnet, of course, is the magnet from the speaker. Somewhere I had Magnat Classic 216 (the first speakers that came with the car). I walked along a given square with a speaker magnet. Miracle. Among the smallest pieces of metal on the magnet I found my retaining ring.

We continue to work. Lubricate the lock mechanism with grease. I put it in place and began studying ways to restore the traction mechanism.

Scotch tape and glue are not our option. That's why the idea came. Through trial and error, the central part was removed from the electrical wire clamp.

I selected a bolt of the required diameter and realized that the best option would be to install a nut for fixation. No sooner said than done. To prevent the screw (M4 thread) from dangling in the hole in the door handle lever, I placed a piece of silicone tube of suitable diameter. I thought there was a thread on the rod pin itself. I was wrong! It turned out to be not a carving. I had to cut it.

When assembling, I put heat shrink on the rod. I smeared it with lithol. Screw on the nut to secure it.

I thought a little and screwed on another one to stop the first nut.

Source

If the door does not open with the key fob

First of all, you should make sure that the button itself is working. The battery often runs out.

Further, if the indication goes off after using the key fob, then most likely the wires leading to the lock installed directly in the door have simply frayed.

This, in particular, is also indicated by non-working window regulators.

In such a situation, you will have to disassemble the door (that is, remove the trim from it) and check the integrity of the chains. It will also be necessary to inspect the fuses - they usually blow out from the slightest overload, and their damage leads to failure of the locking system.

Another common factor is a poorly charged battery, because it is from it that all systems installed on the car are powered. In cold weather, as you know, the battery discharges the most. Moreover, if the battery is disconnected for a while, then the immobilizer often starts to work incorrectly.

Sometimes mechanical problems can interfere with opening, but in this case the door cannot be unlocked with anything.

If the central locking system does not work

When the central locking opens but does not close the doors, or there are other problems, and the car is equipped with an alarm, the check begins with testing it. If the central locking does not work from its remote control, but works fine from its own or from a button, the reason is the alarm. If this is not the reason, you will have to tinker. A complete failure of the central locking system is characterized by barely audible clicks from the drives; the buttons for manually opening the doors will remain motionless.

In this case, the first thing you need to do is check the fuse leading to the central locking. You should first clarify the central locking circuit, since there may be several fuses. Very often it is at this stage that the repair ends. If one of them fails, you should know that this indicates a short circuit in its circuit, and the check must be carried out taking this into account.

How the Priora central locking works.

Let's try to figure out how the Priora central locking works. After the keys are activated by the immobilizer unit, the key codes are transmitted to the driver's door module, where they are stored. When the trained key comes into range of the module's antenna, when the doors are opened, the code is read. If the code matches, then when you turn the key and close or open the electrical contacts of the door lock, a signal is sent from the driver's door module via the CAN bus to the electrical package control controller to open or close the doors. In addition, the security alarm is activated or removed.

The Priora central locking works the same way when the immobilizer is inactive. In this case, the code from the key is not read, and the entire system works as described earlier.

Door locks can also be controlled remotely by pressing buttons on the key. In addition, there are two modes when unlocking doors. It can occur simultaneously on all doors or in stages. When you press the button once or turn the key, the driver's door opens. If you press the button again or turn the key within 5 seconds, the passenger doors will unlock. Switching between modes is done by simultaneously pressing the door lock and unlock button on the key with the ignition on. The transition is confirmed by one or two beeps from the buzzer when simultaneous opening and step opening are activated, respectively.

Lock repair

We understood why the central locking does not close the door. Statistics show that half of the problems are related to wiring and electronics, while the other half are mechanical.

As for repairs, home locks are very susceptible to sharp temperatures and high humidity. The activators first jam, then refuse to fully open/close the locks. Typically, such units can be found on domestic cars. It is better to replace such activators with separate blocks. But you can also disassemble, thoroughly clean and lubricate.

It is best to start any repair with a voltage check. Typically, when the latch is triggered, it should go to one of the wires. When opened, the thread tension disappears. On the other hand, it’s similar.

Then the activator or circuit itself is tested before it is diagnosed separately. This includes the control unit and wiring. If the central lock does not close the doors of the VAZ 2114, the reason may be a broken wire in the corrugated cover between the door and the body.

What could be the cost of the problem?

I almost never use the rear doors on my 2008 car. About two years ago I noticed that the left door stopped opening. Somehow it opened, I filled it with VD and the hinges, and the lock itself seemed to be better. About six months passed - again, no. Well, okay, not really, there is also a right rear one). But the other day I was looking and the right one jammed.

Now both rear doors cannot be opened from either the inside or the outside.

My car, I’m just the owner, there were no accidents - that’s for sure, it’s summer and the car wash has nothing to do with it. There are no children either - I didn’t make any locks with children, everything was fine with the levers. The buttons respond to the remote control signal, for example, there is a mode for opening only the front doors, this is not the case, I installed it on all 4. Yes, a sedan body. Stored in a garage and everything is fine with the body and geometry.

It’s clear that you need to go to a service center, but what options might there be, including the cost of the problem?

We remove the seat, then the upholstery (there are no bolts there). Manually pull the rod, open the door, fill all rod connections with VD (do not spare VD, you need to pour it humanely) and then work the lock 30-40 times, then fill everything well with silicone grease.

And let the auctions be customized for you, they are not 100% regulated.

In the service, the whole procedure will cost a trifle. You can do it yourself, but since you are a woman, ask your husband or lover)))

For my grandson Priores, the backrest behind the driver did not open; we did everything ourselves and quite quickly. Prior has such a disease.

Let's start with the simplest and most obvious. There cannot be anything particularly complex or expensive in the rear doors of Priors, which simply by definition do not open.

In my humble opinion, only two more or less plausible variants of this malfunction can be offered as possible malfunctions.

Due to the poor quality of the factory assembly, either the fastening of the rear door lock, or its mechanism itself, or weakened rods. It is very easy and simple to “treat”. To do this, you need to remove the rear door trim and, using a pair of screwdrivers, carefully stretch all the loose parts of the locking mechanisms and, if necessary, adjust both it and the rods. Since we're going through the door anyway, it's a good idea to lubricate all the moving parts of the lock and the rods well.

In my opinion, rather.

The door does not open due to a very long period of inactivity. When the friction mechanisms of the lock are dry from grease and clogged with dust. To eliminate the problem, it is also necessary to remove the door trim. Pour HP 40 liberally into the mixture. Lubricate with machine oil. And carefully “develop” manually the locking mechanism of the door, and, if necessary, the bar.

A third malfunction is also possible. Something to do with the lock being blocked from the alarm panel. But this is unlikely. So, how would such a malfunction also affect the entrance doors? And that's not true. This means that this version most likely will not work.

I know these first two shortcomings from experience. Something similar happened on my home machine. And it was successfully completed. I would be extremely grateful if, after fixing the problem, you would let me know what the real cause was.

The key fob and the tsz button on the door work like this, the electric motor has a terminal on the driver's door, when the driver's door is closed it is triggered and gives a signal to move the three remaining doors. If everything is closed except the front right one (from the remote control), the signal goes to the block, but it itself is most likely dead, but if you say that it clicks there, then the thrust may fly away or it is burnt out and the power misses (frozen again), that's it All

Glebarik, Please follow the rules of the Russian language. First, a verbal warning! It will continue like this, I’ll write mustard plaster.

I also have a question about the lock.

In a locked car, if you pull the driver's door release handle and press the unlock signal, the door will naturally not open. But... If you then release the handle and open the sign door a few times, it should open, and until I open the sign key, it won't open or close, and the living room says it should. Absolutely right?

Good afternoon In general, the problem is this: with the additional alarm (Sherkhan A), all 4 doors close, but with the standard one, when inserted from the remote control, the driver's door does not close, after which the car emits a signal that the zone limit switch did not work. In manual mode, when you turn the key in the cylinder door, all doors close and all open. An Internet search yielded no results. Help, maybe someone had a similar problem or heard something similar.

I have it. This is the pain of add-on whitefish installers. I scored it because there was no one to show it to, I already got a used car in this form

Added after 6 minutes epa08, from the nga water button there is also a door, as far as I understand, the driver's door does not close

Good afternoon In general, the problem is this: with the additional alarm (Sherkhan A), all 4 doors close, but with the standard one, when inserted from the remote control, the driver's door does not close, after which the car emits a signal that the zone limit switch did not work. In manual mode, when you turn the key in the cylinder door, all doors close and all open. An Internet search yielded no results. Help, maybe someone had a similar problem or heard something similar.

It appears that during the installation of add whitefish, the power cables on the driver's door actuator were cut and connected to add whitefish. So they are not close to the staff. And the machine beeps because when set to a normal whitefish, due to the fact that the drive does not move, the limit switch in the drive does not open and the machine beeps.

I have it. This is the pain of add-on whitefish installers. I scored it because there was no one to show it to, I already got a used car in this form

Added after 6 minutes epa08, from the nga water button there is also a door, as far as I understand, the driver's door does not close

That's right, the button doesn't close either. I installed an alarm when I bought the car from the dealership.

I installed an alarm when I bought the car from the dealership. Well, now let's go back to them and poke your nose at them. I would even go according to the principle

Added after 4 minutes It appears that during the installation of add whitefish the power cables on the driver's door actuator were cut and connected to add whitefish. I understand correctly that to get rid of this wire you need to go back to the block and add. Shige associate a “twist” with it? in this case there will be no "conflict" between reports.

Hi all! The right front door does not close or open with the key fob and lock on the driver's door, you can close and open it manually. When it closes, opens from the key fob or from the control unit inside the door, something clicks. How to treat? Thank you.

When you open the door you see a rubber wrap, the wires in this place usually break due to one of the reasons (one of the reasons)

Guys need help! The car was parked for a week. Everything went well today! I started to close the car and saw the following:

The central locking locks 3 doors, except the driver's door, and does not open any! I press the “open” button and no action happens! I cuddle up to me, she gets up and closes, and at that moment I open the door. This is complete bullshit, and even if this version refuses, what should I do then?! The cenmax alarm is also installed, but it does not open or close the doors! What to do?!

Guys need help! The car was parked for a week. Everything went well today! I started to close the car and saw the following:

The central locking locks 3 doors, except the driver's door, and does not open any! I press the “open” button and no action happens! I cuddle up to me, she gets up and closes, and at that moment I open the door. This is complete bullshit, and even if this version refuses, what should I do then?! The cenmax alarm is also installed, but it does not open or close the doors! What to do?!

The driver's door actuator is blocked. With the activator raised, press the close button, quickly open the door, start the car and warm up the interior. Happened a couple of times.

Yes, there are thorns!

Yes, this shit happened in front of the car wash! Maybe it will really pass!?

And then one day I encountered this problem (I understand that wait a minute, the laughter will intensify, but still). The car spends the night in the parking lot. I warn him in the evening, when I come in the morning, only 3 doors are open (and a couple of times there were two) and only the front ones did not open when the car was heated, everything was piled up at once. I take VDshku and silicone and spray everything I can on the locks themselves, analogues, remove the sheath, and spray everything I can there. This procedure was carried out more than once, the result was ZERO, and finally I came across a solution to the problem. The fact is that the doors did not sit down a little to the end of the trim (although they did not rattle when moving), which made it very difficult for a hooligan to pass through the hole (which shows whether the door was jammed). I waited in the scabbard one at a time and knocked harder on the other, the problem disappeared. Laughter through tears.

Added after 3 minutes I know this is useful, but not everyone should have it on hand.

Even if you manually take and press a mushroom in the salon, it cannot be pressed! Remove the cover and see if you installed it incorrectly or if the lock is stuck.

Added after 1 minute By the way, was it possible to mix up the connection of the ECU on the driver's door? He could not. They are different. And even if you mess it up, it will not affect your ability to manually lock the doors.

If Shumkov did it, maybe he shorted the thrust.

Added after 9 minutes you sealed the draft with vibroplast, buddy.

Added after 1 minute you sealed the rods with vibroplast

No, that's not fair. You can not do it. Adding whitefish is usually about control rather than power. The ones with a broken brown wire that goes to the end of the driver's rail. However, if you are interested, this is covered in detail in the thread on alarms.

On what topic can you be more precise?

The door does not close from the rescue driver's key fob

There is not a single service in Orel. Come and see.

Guys, I'm thinking about replacing the door handles. I went to the store to investigate, and they offered a lot of things. Question #1: This helps determine the brand (type, model) of pens.

Driver's side view

Here's the breakdown (inherited from the previous owner):

A common problem on a hike is broken ears that are placed on the vine

Question #2: If you change handles, how difficult is it? The door will have to be disassembled in any way (how much will the service cost?)

Question No. 3: the right passenger door has the above-mentioned problem, plus everything that you don’t want to open in the cold (we’re not talking about freezing of the lock or gaskets). It seems like the locking mechanism somehow gets stuck there, and only after driving the car, shaking the holes in the house, only then will the door deign to open. At the moment I think that due to the broken ear, the retainer is not strong enough if it is a little frozen.

Thanks in advance if you have any advice.

Slowly, degrease and glue the sealing gasket, glued both rear door handles, everything: good:

The trouble is that pieces of these “ears” were lost from the previous owner. I have nothing to glue there.

Or do you offer something cooler?

These are handles, just glue the lid to the handle. I have one glued (for an independent neck), the flight is normal for 2 years. And the doors are noisy from the previous owner.

Oh thanks! Are these pads sold separately? Do you need to remove door trims to replace them?

The problem with the door, as I wrote above, is different: even in mild frost, the door jams. Because it’s not clear. It opens only after an hour of driving along our streets: when the interior heats up, the door shakes. So far I’m thinking (I didn’t remove the cover or look) that the problem is these broken covers - the handle does not have enough tension and when it freezes a little, the force applied to the handle is wasted, since, roughly speaking, the leverage has increased.

The second theory is sadder: there is a suspicion that the car was hit on this door (there are traces of paint on the door) by the previous owner.

Overlapping has nothing to do with it, you need to go up to the door and look, the pull from the handle can be adjusted, the lock can be lubricated, perhaps the actuator wedges. Overlays are not sold separately. You can’t remove it without removing the handle (if you just break it), there is a second self-tapping screw to help. 102600

or (as I think most likely) it’s time to drive. Should it open normally with the key?

Added after 4 minutes If you press the button itself (near the glass), all doors open and close normally. In the same way, from the key to the road - I close the cabin - everything is closed, I open it - everything opens.

In the same way, from the key to the road - I close the cabin - everything is closed, I open it - everything opens. if a soldier is drowning, everything should be closed and vice versa with a key or hand; by the way, if you open it with a key and hand, IMHO freezing can be eliminated. I don’t know much about it, it’s not my profile, but a couple of days ago I walked around the car with a hairdryer, then of course I took it all apart and generally took it away, I understood this system a little.

Added after 2 minutes in general, it seems to me that the question is about unity, but it’s better to wait for the thread of the node of the men who are rummaging to answer

Hi all. Tell me what could be the problem. The driver's door stopped opening from the alarm remote control. At the same time, in the morning and at lunchtime, all doors opened and closed normally. All doors are closed by the power window control unit, with the exception of the driver's door, and on the driver's door the pusher (which protrudes near the glass and moves up and down, I forgot what it is called) tries to come out, but cannot. In manual mode, this rod also closes and opens normally. Even with the key everything is fine. What could it be? Is the craving frozen inside? Is there a break in grip?

This is not for the cold. Skiff on the driver's door trigger. I don't know what to call it more precisely.

Is the activator responsible for closing/opening signal buttons and glass?

Yes. This is email. The guide I was talking about

As it turned out, it was not the coil. I replaced the actuator, the problem remained. But it turned out that when the door is closed, everything is the same, i.e. the door is not locked. But if you open the door and lower the tongue on the lock itself (as if the door was closed), then everything opens and closes perfectly, both from the alarm and from the window regulator. Now you suspect the electrician. Maybe the thread broke somewhere.

Look at the wiring in the driver's door corrugation. Often the threads break there.

Sorry, of course, but...

A Mazda approaches a gas station and a glamorous blonde in high heels steps out. He says to the tanker: “ninety-five” and goes to pay. When I returned, it turned out that the key was left in the car and the doors were locked. He asks the duty officer for help. He replies that he has a lot of cars and no time. But, taking pity, he finds a piece of steel wire and explains how to insert the wire into the slightly open window and try to press the button to open the door. A few minutes later, the tanker sees the following picture: a crowd of people from all the cars had gathered around the Mazda, laughing. He asks what is the problem. - Yes, some idiot is rummaging through the thread, trying to open the car! - So? I gave her the thread. - So damn her friend sits in the booth and shows where to hit the wire.

Friends also had a problem. I can’t open the passenger door, the push came out of town, first from the outside handle, it could only be opened from the inside, and today from the inside! How to open the door?)))

Can you shoot with the door closed? How do you unscrew the screws at the bottom?

Can you shoot with the door closed? How do you unscrew the screws at the bottom?

Unscrewing the screws is not a problem, but with the casing things are more complicated.

Can you shoot with the door closed? How do you unscrew the screws at the bottom?

The panels can be easily removed when the door is closed.

I confirm that everything was filmed with the door closed, filmed personally by an acquaintance.

Added after 28 seconds, the main thing is to take your time.

Only the driver's door and the throttle control unit button cannot be opened using the remote control. The key opens and closes

In the same way, my pip is easily pressed and pulled out by hand (even easier than on other doors). Maybe someone can tell me how to find out if a block has burned out or something else. I really don’t want to remove the Shumka upholstery that was done last summer

In the same way, my pip is easily pressed and pulled out by hand (even easier than on other doors). Maybe someone can tell me how to find out if a block has burned out or something else. I really don’t want to remove the Shumka upholstery that was done last summer

Duty. My left back was like this, I pulled out and covered the spike with my hand. They took it out, the plastic in this Aquator broke, they took it off and put it back. Everything is working

Only the driver's door and the throttle control unit button cannot be opened using the remote control. The key opens and closes. I changed the actuator on the driver's side, no effect. I took the old drive apart and wired it up, when you press the remote you can see the motor spinning inside.

I had the same thing. I took off the casing, measured it with a tester - the current goes to the block - I decided that the block had burned out. I bought a new one, installed it - it doesn't work. I decided to check the unit directly, connected a screwdriver to the battery - both units work, the old one and the new one. I went to the garage to see the alarm installers (because large services usually don’t work on weekends). The reason was as follows: there are 4 wires going to the driver's door drive - 2 of them were cut and the alarm wires (additional) went idle, that is, when arming, the alarm closes the driver's door and the driver's door in turn, gives a signal, and the rest of the doors close (open in the same order). And this signal wiring was done using speaker cables - which are not designed for high current and are externally intact - they sound like a tester, but inside they all burn like dust. As a result, these wires were replaced and not the block, but the central locking buttons were inserted into the space. They say there is less current per button. And the most annoying thing is that I submitted the report to a large and reputable service. (I apologize if I made any technical inaccuracies)

Device

The weakest point of the Priora locking system is the microswitch. The electrical package itself, used on the model in question, is a rather complex device. It is his responsibility to receive the owner’s command to unlock or lock the door. Having received a certain signal, it activates certain electrical networks that supply the drive. In this case, the electrical package can perceive orders in two ways at once:

In the first case, having sensed the order to close, the immobilizer turns off the alarm and energizes the electric drive of the lock, closing or, conversely, opening the contact groups of the microswitch.

Then the latter, all the time the lock is locked, monitors whether an order has been received to open the doors.

Why is everything arranged this way? Everything is simple, because the command in this situation can be received not only from the key fob, but also from the switch if the car owner used the key. This allows the immobilizer, when the security alarm is activated, after detecting a raised blocker, to immediately begin to act according to the alarm protocol.

So, the biggest problem of the Priora is water getting inside the door. As a result, the contact groups of the microswitch quickly oxidize and become overgrown with verdigris, similar to moss. The volume of the working surface increases significantly and the contacts stick together. In addition, the oxides have fairly good conductivity. As a result, the passing tension is perceived as an order to unlock or lock the doors.

It is possible to get rid of such a malfunction only after replacing the blocker, or the microswitch itself.

Other most common problems and ways to eliminate them are described below.

Necessary tools and detailed instructions

To begin with, you should understand that the car is already locked and do not panic under any circumstances. After all, excessive fuss will not help matters. You need to make a choice about how to open the car - this determines the choice of tool that may be needed when performing various manipulations. How to open a Priora without a key? Easily! All you need to do is have a small hammer, several screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), several meters of strong wire, wooden wedges and adhesive tape on hand.

The Lada Priora car has basic security functions in its arsenal - central locking is part of the standard security system installed by the factory. Therefore, to open your own car you will need a wire that does not have a large cross-section in diameter, but has sufficient rigidity. At the end of this wire you need to make a small hook, and the wire itself should be from 60 to 90 centimeters long. This hook needs to be squeezed between the rubber seal of the side passenger or driver's window and the glass itself.

Please note that the hook should be facing towards the performer. Then you need to insert the wire into the space between the handle and the cylinder.

Next, you need to push the larva so that it rests against the rod. As soon as this happens, you need to pick up the dog as carefully as possible, and then just carefully lift it. If all of the above steps are performed correctly, the door should open.

The next method, which will give a detailed answer to the question “How can you open the Priora door without a key?” If the first method fails or there is an acute shortage of thin wire, it is time to use the next method. For this you will need wooden wedges and adhesive tape. The width of the wedges should be within 30-50 millimeters; before using them, it is advisable to wrap them with a thin rag.

Then the wedges should be carefully driven into the gap, which is located between the body and the door itself. In order to preserve the paintwork of the car, it is strongly recommended to cover the entire work area with adhesive tape in order to avoid accidental scratches or chips. After this, you can insert a wire with a large diameter into the resulting gap and use it as a shoulder in order to reach the central locking button or get to the handle that opens the car door.

The third method involves having a thin and long metal ruler. If you have it at hand, then just squeeze it into the gap between the rubber seal and the glass directly opposite the handle to open the side door. Using vertical movements up and down, as well as small lateral deviations, you need to find the desired lever, which, even with a slight mechanical impact on it, will open the car door.

The fourth method is the simplest of those presented, but also the most expensive. If you don't even have the few minutes it takes to do the above methods, you can use a hammer or heavy stone to break the window. Please note that you should break the side window for the sake of safe driving, because if you break the windshield, visibility will deteriorate, but also in order to save the family budget.

Wiring

As practice shows, due to the lack of contact, you can often observe a situation where the central lock does not close the doors using the key fob. The system seems to work, but when I press the button nothing happens.

The fault lies in the wiring. All signal connections, as well as the central locking, must be carefully checked. Even if the contact goes away just a little, this can already cause a malfunction. Don't forget that one of the connections is inside the door - you will need to remove the trim. First of all, it is worth checking the condition of the wire going to the engine: it can “wedge” into the ground.

There are many questions and discussions on numerous forums related to the operation of the central lock. Sometimes the central locking only closes the driver's door - this is a typical fault caused by wiring and contacts. The fact is that a special activator is installed in the driver's door. It has not two, but five contacts. The activator controls the operation of all locks on the remaining doors. The microswitch inside the activator could also fail.

If the wiring is not connected correctly, this is the answer to the question of poor operation of the central locking. It is enough to open the control contact and the system will not work properly.

The rear doors of the Lada Grant do not open from the inside, what should I do?

Car: Lada Granta. Asked by: Maria Cherkashina. Question: The child was playing around, now I can’t open the back door.

Boys, save the girl! I can't open the back door at all.

Trying to open the back door

The child played around with the door and now it doesn’t open from the inside at all. And it opens from the outside. The right one does not open, but the left one does. What to do?

The rear doors do not open - the child lock is “activated”

An expert on Lada cars with many years of experience. I own a Lada Granta car, I collect cramps based on the Priora.

Sometimes I stay overnight in the garage. My wife is more jealous of cars than of women.

Protection against opening the rear door from the passenger compartment is available on every car. It's called child protection.

On the Lada Granta, in my opinion, this function is implemented better than on previous cars of the VAZ family. Then the child could actually accidentally pull the lamb in the door, but now, to activate it, you need to use a flat object, but more on that below.

Activating the child protection function

You can activate it using the ignition key, but it is better to use a screwdriver for this

Well, a detailed video of the process

Once again we try it on ourselves, or rather on the editorial car Lada Granta. Learn more about this feature in the video below.

Use this feature carefully! If your outside handle breaks, you can only open the door by removing the door trim. This is very difficult to do with the door closed.

Replacing and adjusting locks on VAZ 2110 and 2112

Often, the reason for a poorly closing door is the displacement of the main part of the lock relative to the receiving part. In this case, you simply need to adjust the position of the latch. To do this, use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the screws securing the clamp. This will allow you to move it in the desired direction. Tighten the screws and check the door operation.

If you cannot adjust the lock, then perhaps its parts are simply worn out. In this case, you will have to replace it. This is done in the following order:

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. If necessary, adjust the length of the rods; this is done by unscrewing or twisting their tips. When assembling, do not forget to lubricate the lock mechanism.

Notes on implementation of schemes

Let us immediately note: if there are no window lifters, the second diagram will not contain parts K2/K3. Then you only need to cut one wire. Sometimes only the rear windows are missing. This means that relay K3 is excluded. And the diodes connected in parallel with the winding can be absolutely anything.

Now we list the requirements for an element called “relay”:

It is the last requirement that is often violated.

In order for “scheme 2” to work, it is necessary not only to assemble it, but also to program the main unit: you need to enable the “2-step unlocking” option. And be that as it may, control impulses cannot be made too long. Use values ​​of 0.7-1.1 seconds.

Power cables (cord X1-6) can only be connected using twists.

The cross-sectional area of ​​the wire must be sufficient to withstand a current of “10 Amps” (this does not apply to signal circuits). A fuse protecting the power circuits must be installed. And of course, before installation, remove the negative terminal of the battery.

Removing and replacing front doors on a Priora according to instructions

To remove the front door on a Priora and replace it, you must perform the following steps:

This completes the process of removing the front door on the Priora. All that remains is to perform the necessary manipulations with it, and then install it back. If a door is replaced on a Priora, the installation process is performed in the reverse order of removal. You must first rearrange all the parts (glass, door lock, map, side mirror, etc.). You can clearly see how to remove the front door on a Priora in the video below.

Adjusting and replacing the lock on 2107

First, you need to identify the reason for the poor functioning of the lock. In some cases, the problem is sagging hinges. Because of this, the door sag and, accordingly, the lock does not coincide with the latch. You can check this by measuring the gaps between the door and the body. This figure can range from 3 to 7 millimeters. It is important that it is completely uniform. If the indicator is different, then you need to adjust the position of the loop. In some cases, this may save you from further manipulations with the lock.

standard room size in a house

The lock is adjusted in the following order:

practical guide

The right and left front doors of the car are similar in design. The work is shown on the front left door. All right front door equipment is removed and installed in the same way. When removing the upholstery, there is a high probability of damage to the holders. Therefore, we recommend purchasing spare holders (8 pcs.) in advance.

We remove the limiter to replace it, as well as when repairing the door (straightening, painting).

To avoid damaging the door, do not swing it open after removing the door stop.

1. Remove the door trim and remove the plastic film.

2. Using light hammer blows through a drift, knock out the axial pin of the limiter rod upwards.

3. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the door opening limiter.

4. Remove the stopper from the door.

We install the door opening limiter in the reverse order and lubricate it with grease.

We remove the glass when repairing the door (straightening, painting).

Fixing the problem

Even a short-term loss of power to the microcircuit inside the key fob can lead to synchronization disturbances in the operation of the entire central locking unit. This will require new firmware for the remote control. This requires the intervention of specialists and a special training key. On the other hand, you can try to solve the problem on your own.

What can be done on site

You can restore synchronization as follows:

• turn on the ignition using a key that requires restoration;
• wait at least 6 seconds;
• turn off the ignition after the immobilizer stops flashing.

After 10 seconds, use the same key to start the car. An indicator of a solution to the problem will be an extinguished immobilizer indicator.

If the central locking system malfunctions, the key fob is in good working order, then you can try replacing the system fuse and loosening the screw on the key fob.

In various situations, it is important to choose the right solution to the problem:

1. The car does not lock in the cold. In such cases, you can use a hairdryer to warm up, dry the lock, and lubricate it with non-aggressive penetrating compounds such as WD-40. In some cases, it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism and replace worn parts.
2. It is impossible to lock the car. This may be due to sagging doors or the lock being displaced after an accident. This requires mechanical adjustment using bolts.
3. The door doesn't close all the way. This problem can arise due to the lock freezing, a violation of the geometry of the hinges, or the rack. Under such circumstances, you can even out the deformations, set the required gaps, clean and lubricate the lock.

Features of electric lock repair

This may require replacing the relay, coil, actuator gear, restoring a separate contact, or repairing the electrical wiring. If the break point cannot be found, then you need to check the limit switch.

In addition, you should check the solenoids, since these elements can fail due to sudden temperature changes and high humidity.

Review of spare parts prices

Stories from our readers

“Fucking basin. "

Hi all! My name is Mikhail, now I’ll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my two-wheeler for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I began to be wildly irritated by the breakdowns of the two-wheeler, it seemed like nothing serious was broken, but damn it, there were so many little things that really started to irritate me. This is where the idea arose that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the melting Camry of the tenth years.

Yes, I had matured morally, but financially I just couldn’t handle it. I’ll say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My salary is 24k a month, so collecting 600-700 thousand is almost impossible for me. I started looking for different ways to make money on the Internet. You can’t imagine how many scams there are, what I haven’t tried: sports betting, network marketing, and even the volcano casino, where I successfully lost about 10 thousand ((The only direction in which it seemed to me that I could make money was currency trading on the stock exchange, they call it Forex. But when I started delving into it, I realized that it was very difficult for me. I continued to dig further and came across binary options. The essence is the same as in Forex, but it’s much easier to understand. I started reading forums, studying trading strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then opened a real account. To be honest, I didn’t manage to start earning money right away, until I understood all the mechanics of options, I lost about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a precious experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles a day. I managed to get the car buy after half a year, but in my opinion this is a good result, and it’s not about the car, my life has changed, I naturally quit my job, I have more free time for myself and my family. You’ll laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If If you want to change your life like me, then here’s what I advise you to do right now: 1. Register on the site 2. Practice on a Demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the Demo account, top up your REAL ACCOUNT and go to REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application to your phone, it’s much more convenient to work from your phone. Download here.

To be honest, I can’t even imagine how the door will close after these upgrades; apparently silent locks will become completely silent

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