Do-it-yourself repair and replacement of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder

How to inspect the clutch basket?

How can you tell if the basket is worn out? It’s very simple: the first sign of wear on this part is slippage, which occurs if the disk is not pressed tightly against the flywheel.

Here are step-by-step instructions for checking the basket for wear:

Put the car on the handbrake. Start the engine and engage gear 3 or higher. Lower the right pedal and press the gas. Pay attention to the car's reaction to such actions.

What do these or other options indicate?

It is considered normal if the car stalls as a result of such impacts. This means that the clutch and gearbox are fine.

Important If the engine continues to run, this should be a cause for concern. The basket is faulty because it does not allow the entire clutch to disengage completely.

It is necessary to replace not only the basket, but also the disk.

The following steps should be performed to determine a particular problem:

1. Idle the engine.
2. Press the right pedal all the way.
3. Switch to first gear and move backwards.

If it is difficult to shift gears and strange sounds occur, it is concluded that the disk and flywheel are faulty.

The best time to repair and replace the clutch is the moment when the car is undergoing major repairs. If the power unit has already been removed, then repairing and changing the clutch will be much easier. If you follow the following plan of action, everyone will successfully cope with this job. Note that the described actions can be performed even in the garage.

So, the sequence is as follows:

1. Remove the gearbox (gearbox). If there is no need to repair or replace it, you can safely disconnect the drive, battery and mass air flow sensor (mass air flow sensor). There is no need to drain the oil first.
2. Unscrew the cable providing the transmission.
3. Disconnect the starter.
4. Loosen the fasteners on top of the box.
5. Unscrew the elements of the speed sensor, as well as the electrical wiring harnesses.
6. Slightly loosen the drive nut on the right, but unscrew it completely on the left.
7. Unscrew the ball joint.
8. Disconnect the engine protection.
9. The torque rod must be unscrewed, and then the lower crankcase cover must be removed.
10. Remove the linkage, first loosening the nut of the clamp, which helps control the gearbox.
11. Unscrew the fasteners and bolts of the gearbox.
12. Using a jack, lift the engine.
13. Unscrew the box from the pillow and then remove it.

After the box is removed, the motorist can see the problem area and is able to perform some actions with it.

To replace the basket, you must first remove the retaining fasteners.

You need to pay attention to the petals: the basket should be replaced completely if it is significantly worn out

Before installing the new basket, you need to adjust the position of the gearbox input shaft so that the box can be easily put on in the future. Then a disc is installed in the flywheel.

After the position of the basket is corrected, it is necessary to tighten the bolts. This is done gradually: first 3-4 turns, and only then should it be fixed.

At the very end of the procedure, all that remains is to install the release bearing and shaft, which must be generously lubricated before installation.

All previously removed parts are installed back in the reverse order.

VAZ 2107 clutch: device

The “Seven” has a dry single-disc clutch. The clutch hydraulic master cylinder is located directly under the pedal, when pressed, the pusher moves, acting on the master cylinder piston, creating pressure. The brake fluid that fills the hydraulic drive is squeezed out and flows into the working cylinder.

The piston of the working cylinder is connected to the clutch fork by a pusher. When you press the pedal, the latter moves the fork, it displaces the release bearing and separates the support and pressure discs. As a result, the torque from the crankshaft flywheel is no longer transmitted to the gearbox and it becomes possible to change gear.

If the clutch unit malfunctions, when you press the pedal, the gearbox shaft continues to rotate and changing gears becomes difficult or even impossible. If the clutch is adjusted incorrectly, the discs may slip, which is accompanied by accelerated wear.

You cannot continue to drive a car with a faulty clutch - both the clutch discs and the gearbox may be damaged. Therefore, at the first sign of a malfunction, you should start repairing and adjusting it.

How to adjust the clutch?

The clutch is adjusted by a special bolt with a lock nut, which is located at the end of the cable.

The pedal stroke is adjusted by turning the nut and should ultimately be 12-13cm. The increase or decrease in stroke is adjusted by screwing and unscrewing the nut from the tip.

To check whether the required distance at which the pedal is from the floor has been reached, it is recommended to press it several times and take a measurement. The adjustment continues until the desired distance is reached.

Clutch adjustment:

Pedal dips

A dip in the pedal is one of the main signs that the VAZ-2106 clutch mechanism has become unusable. The clutch master cylinder may have lost its seal. But you shouldn’t blame it right away; you need to carefully examine all the elements of the system. The pipes connecting the cylinders must not have brake fluid leaks. There should also be no traces of it on the cylinder bodies themselves. If the pedal fails, the clutch will not work normally.

The following problems may occur:

1. Difficulty changing gears.
2. Drop in fluid level in the expansion tank.
3. When used for a long time in this mode, the release bearing, basket, and disk fail.

If you notice a pedal failing, try to carry out repairs as quickly as possible, since with each press the fluid will come out of the system.

Adjusting the clutch pedal travel

Hydraulic adjustment occurs differently. The distance between the pusher rod and the release fork should not exceed 5mm.

To adjust the distance, follow these steps:

1. Remove the spring from the bracket and fork.
2. Adjust the distance between the rod and the release fork so that it is 0.5 cm. This distance can be adjusted by screwing and unscrewing.

Note! Before adjusting the clutch, you must read the official instructions, since the methods described may not be suitable for certain car models

Major breakdowns

Despite the high cost of the design, the VAZ-2106 clutch breaks quite often. The clutch cylinder fails and leaks appear. This happens for the following reasons:

1. Excessive wear on the slave and master cylinder parts.
2. Using brake fluid not recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
3. A decrease in the liquid level in the expansion tank due to its damage or loosening of the pipe clamps.

The price of the VAZ-2106 clutch master cylinder is 400-600 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. But you can also find more expensive parts. The repair kit is a little cheaper - about 300 rubles.

Repair and replacement of the clutch slave cylinder

When choosing a spare part to replace the clutch cylinder, you should pay attention to the material from which the part body is made. As noted earlier, such material can be cast iron, steel, aluminum or polymers

Today, many manufacturers offer aluminum and even polymer cylinders, but such parts are less reliable.

There are several types of clutch cylinder malfunctions that will require rod repair:

• leakage of working fluid through worn seals or connecting tubes with defects;
• presence of cracks in the cylinder body;
• broken working cylinder springs.

The rod consists of several components, each of which is subject to wear. Its parts - pusher, piston, cuffs, spring - experience high loads during operation, so there is a possibility that they may fail.

Symptoms of a faulty clutch cylinder:

• a decrease in the level of brake fluid in the cylinder reservoir and the appearance of spots under the car while parked;
• the pedal fails and the clutch works intermittently;
• There are problems with shifting gears.

Experts advise, first of all, to pay attention to the travel of the clutch pedal. If it runs too softly, this is not yet a reason for urgent repairs, but the operation of the cylinder should be diagnosed.

To check it, you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic drive. If there are air bubbles in the working fluid, you should understand the reasons for their appearance. As a rule, air gets inside the rods of the clutch slave and master cylinders due to depressurization of the sealing collars.

As noted earlier, repairing and replacing the clutch slave cylinder is not a very difficult task. This part is most often located on the gearbox housing.

First you need to unscrew the fastening bolts, disconnect the pusher from the fork and begin dismantling the hose that comes from the main circulation center.

Since there is working fluid in the master cylinder, the hose should be plugged (for this you can use a plug of the appropriate diameter). There is also another opinion - you need to disconnect the hose to completely drain the brake fluid (it is believed that this will help flush the clutch hydraulic system from dirt).

After dismantling, the clutch master cylinder must be disassembled and, if possible, repaired. If this part has a metal body, then it can be fixed in a vice, but if the part is plastic, then you need to be careful not to damage it.

After disconnecting the air valve, it is necessary to remove the outer cuff. After this, taking into account the design features of the cylinder, it is necessary to provide access to the rod and remove the retaining ring. After disassembling the part, you must ensure that there is no damage to the spring, rod or defects of the cylinder mirror.

All components must be washed with brake fluid. We noted earlier that kerosene, gasoline, motor oil or water cannot be used for this purpose (these liquids contribute to the swelling of rubber elements).

When assembling the cylinder, all seals and seals should be replaced with new ones.

Repair of the clutch master cylinder will not be possible if:

• body cracks;
• noticeable wear on the inner surface of the body, which appears as a result of defects in the rod.

In this case, you need to completely replace the faulty clutch cylinder with a new part.

After replacing the clutch master cylinder, do not forget to bleed the system.

The method for bleeding the hydraulic drive system after replacing the clutch slave cylinder does not differ from that described previously for the hydraulic clutch. At the same time, in some car arches (for example, on Fiats), the clutch system is back-pumped. To do this procedure yourself you need to prepare:

• a hose that fits tightly onto the exhaust valve;
• a large syringe, the diameter of the nozzle of which corresponds to the size of the hose;
• a wrench to remove the air release valve.

First, unscrew the cap of the reservoir with the working fluid and draw it into the syringe. You need to expel all the air balls from the syringe, and then connect its spout with a hose, the second end of which is connected to the release valve. After this, you need to unscrew the valve 2-3 turns, press the syringe and pump the brake fluid into the clutch cylinder. To prevent air from entering the system, you must first tighten the valve and only then remove the hose.

This sequence of actions must be performed several times until all the air is forced out of the hydraulic drive system into the tank. After this, you need to depress the clutch pedal about 10 times and, if necessary, adjust its travel height.

What reasons will indicate a malfunction?

The following signs will help you understand that the clutch master cylinder is malfunctioning:

• a sharp decrease in the level of working fluid in the tank;
• traces of leaks in the area where the working and main cylinders are located;
• a kind of “failure” when pressing the clutch pedal;
• inability to fully press the clutch pedal.

Among the main types of malfunctions noted by experts, it is worth highlighting the following:

• malfunction of the cylinder itself;
• worn cuffs or piston;
• filling the system with low-quality brake fluid, which may contain both numerous dust particles and an excess of moisture.

To eliminate the causes of the malfunction of the main element, it is time to use two methods - replace the one that has become unusable with a new one or eliminate a minor breakdown by repairing it yourself. However, it is worth understanding that only rubber cuffs and the body can be repaired, and besides, repairing components will not always give the expected result. It should also be noted that as for the boot, it also needs to be inspected for the presence of large contaminations. According to experts, it is best to completely replace the cylinder, especially since its cost does not exceed 550 rubles.

Why do you need to change the clutch?

Clutch disc VAZ 2101

To replace the clutch you will need to stock up on: A 13mm wrench, and in addition to all this you will also need to take two different types of screwdrivers (Flat and Phillips in this case), and you also need to stock up on a mandrel for centering the clutch disc which in a car store it costs literally 100 rubles! (You can see what this mandrel looks like, which is discussed in the article, just below in the section: “For beginners!”)

When should you change the clutch?

During operation, the clutch of any car wears out over time, and the first signs of a worn clutch that a car will show are:

• Increased noise that begins to appear very clearly when changing gears in the car.
• Jerks can also occur when starting a car, and they can also occur while driving when you depress the clutch pedal, then engage a gear, and then when you release the pedal, the car jerks forward slightly.

This mainly happens due to the damper springs that are installed on the driven disk, and in the photo below they are shown by arrows. These springs are needed so that the clutch disengages smoothly and thus does not cause discomfort when driving, and when these springs become unusable, when the clutch is disengaged, as mentioned earlier, a jerk occurs, which often has a very negative effect on the comfort of driving a car!

• In addition to all this, if the clutch malfunctions, the effect that the clutch “slips” may occur. This is when you are driving a car and at the same time you press the gas pedal, let’s say to the floor, and your car does not accelerate, but the engine speed increases sharply and even reaches the red zone, this effect is popularly called the clutch “Slipping”.
• And in conclusion, we note one more effect, called the “Leads” clutch. The first signs of this effect are as follows: let’s say you engage first gear and at this time the clutch pedal is still fully depressed, but even despite this the car starts to roll. This effect is called the “Leads” clutch.

Technical parameters of the “seven” clutch: classification and parameters

VAZ models are equipped with a single-disc clutch with a central spring. Motorists interested in which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107 should take into account that its type depends on the power of the power unit. The units differ in the parameters of the pressure spring, casing and dimensions of the driven disk, and the entire set consists of three elements:

• Pressure disk.
• Slave disk.
• Release bearing.

Pressure plate

On VAZ classics, two types of such mechanisms are used:

• 2103 – for cars with engines up to 1.5 liters.
• 2121 – for cars with engines up to 1.7 liters.

Externally, they are almost identical, they can easily be confused - the diameter of the disk in both cases is 200 mm. However, there are still distinctive signs:

• On product 2121 there is a mark in the form of a six-millimeter hole in one of the slots in the diaphragm spring blade.
• The width of friction linings 2103 is 29 mm, and 2121 – 35 mm.

Driven disk

To decide which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107, it doesn’t hurt to know that a “classic” disc is quite easy to distinguish from a “front-wheel drive” one by the bends that partially cover the damper springs. Driven disks are available in two sizes:

• 200x140 – for engines up to 1.5 liters; There are two brands: 2103 and 2107, the latter has asbestos-free linings.
• 200x130 - according to the documentation, the disk is brand 2121 and is designed for the Niva, but installation on the “seven” is also possible. In addition to its size, it features a reinforced damper with reinforced diaphragm springs.

Another noticeable factor is that the 2121 driven disc has a larger number of rivets on the linings than its 2103 counterpart.

Release bearing

The part is supplied complete and has an additional name - release clutch. For “classics”, its marking also begins with a set of numbers 2101. The bearing is visually distinguished by the presence of wire brackets, which is familiar to car enthusiasts who have replaced the working cylinder on a Lada.

A set of clutch parts for Niva can be installed on any classic car. Such parts are designed to withstand heavy loads, and therefore will last longer. The only inconvenience is that the “Nivov” basket will require a lot of effort on the clutch pedal.

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Device location

To find the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ classic, you need to look for it directly in the area where the gearbox is located. The device is attached with two bolts to the gearbox housing.

The mechanism can only be seen from below or in the very depths of the engine compartment on the driver’s side. Repair work related to dismantling and replacing the clutch slave cylinder can be carried out “from under the hood,” but it is much more convenient from an inspection hole or on an overpass. The video below shows the location of this unit. What function does this product perform and is it possible to do without it? We'll find out more about this later.

Features of operation

The operating principle is very simple. Below is a diagram where the slave cylinder is indicated by a green arrow.

According to this diagram, we can say that the RCS performs an important function, or rather, it activates the fork, which is connected to the clutch drum. The main element of the RCS, or rather the piston, is activated by the resulting fluid pressure coming from the main cylinder through the hose when the clutch pedal is pressed. The brake fluid pushes the piston, which in turn drives the fork, which acts on the drum, pushing the disc away from the flywheel. Many people wonder why brake fluid is used in the system? The reason is that brake fluid is incompressible, which is why it is used in such important systems as brakes and clutches.

When to replace the RCS

During the use of the unit, which happens very often, the product tends to fail. The main causes of breakdowns are chafing and wear of the cuffs, the appearance of cracks in them, which entails the leakage of liquid. Significant loss of fluid will cause the clutch system to malfunction. It is possible to repair a DCS that has become unusable, but it is easier and more efficient to replace it with a new one.

In order not to wait until the pressure in the clutch pedal disappears, you need to periodically inspect the unit. If there is a leak in the fuel fluid, it is necessary to immediately carry out the appropriate repairs on the VAZ 2107. Before carrying out repairs, you need to make sure that this particular element is faulty, since the main circulation system may also fail. The main signs of failure of the RCS are:

• decrease in the level of fuel fluid in the tank;
• visible brake fluid leaks from the device body or from under the rubber boot;
• “failures” of the clutch pedal, which can be periodic or constant;
• difficulty changing gears.

But most often the malfunction is determined by detecting a brake fluid leak.

Features of replacing the RCS

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder begins with the need to remove all fluid from the reservoir. Further actions are carried out in order:

First you need to loosen the fastening nut that connects the hose to the cylinder. There is no need to unscrew the nut completely, just loosen it at this stage. Using pliers, you need to remove the tension spring. After this, you should unclench the cotter pin and remove it from the tip of the pusher. Using a key set to “12”, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the product to the gearbox housing. After unscrewing the bolts, you can disconnect the bracket from the cylinder, which is intended to secure the spring. Hold the working cylinder body and remove it

During dismantling, pay attention to the pusher, which is located in the fork. After disconnecting the product from the crankcase, you can continue unscrewing the nut connecting the hose to the device. After unscrewing the nut, brake fluid will begin to flow out of the hose, so you should prepare a special container in advance.

After the device is dismantled, it should be replaced with a new one, since repairing it is irrational. The cost of the product is insignificant, so it is easier to replace it with a new one than to try to carry out repairs. Installation of the product is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the system bleeding procedure. In conclusion, it should be recalled that regular car maintenance helps prevent various unforeseen consequences along the way, such as the “disappearance” of the clutch.

Tips and tricks

When purchasing a new part, owners should remember the quality of the unit, since there are often cases when a cheap product suffers from a short service life. There are many fakes of the VAZ 2104 clutch master cylinder on the market, which are characterized by low quality workmanship and a short service life. The optimal solution is to purchase parts from the manufacturer, which in its production complies with strict standards and GOST norms. At the same time, using the identification number, it is always possible to determine the batch number in the event of a manufacturing defect.

Also, when choosing a new part, owners need to pay special attention to the quality of workmanship. There should be no backlash in some of the moving parts; the parts should maintain optimal mobility. The presence of cracks, stains of unspecified liquid, and burrs on the body is unacceptable. Also, the body, like the rest of the parts, must be numbered with the standard stamp of the manufacturer.

During the repair process, you must always keep a drain container for used brake fluid on hand. Also, before repairs, it is necessary to purchase about a liter of such a substance to make up for losses from opening the system. It is also necessary to remember that reassembling the system after repair must be done in exactly the reverse order.

How to remove the clutch slave cylinder

Before you begin repairing the clutch cylinder, it will have to be removed from the vehicle. Here's what you need for this:

• pliers;
• set of spanners;
• set of socket heads;
• empty container for brake fluid;
• rags.

It is most convenient to remove the clutch cylinder in the inspection hole. As an option, an overpass is also suitable. If the driver has neither one nor the other, it will not be possible to remove the cylinder. The work is performed in the following order:

1. The cylinder return spring is removed manually.
   No tools required to remove the cylinder return spring
2. There is a small cotter pin at the end of the pusher.
   It is carefully grabbed with pliers and pulled out. It is convenient to remove the cylinder cotter pin with small pliers
3. Now you should loosen the locknut on the slave cylinder hose.
   This is done using a 17 mm open-end wrench. The locknut on the cylinder hose is loosened with a regular 17 mm open-end wrench.
4. The cylinder itself is attached to the crankcase with two 14 mm bolts.
   They are unscrewed with a socket head. The cylinder fasteners are unscrewed using a 14 mm socket with a long knob
5. To remove the cylinder, you need to hold the hose end by the nut using a 17 mm wrench. With the second hand, the cylinder rotates and is disconnected from the hose.

What is a hydraulic drive

The clutch in a car is controlled using a pedal. The force from it to the disk can be transmitted in two ways:

1. Using a cable.
2. Hydraulic drive.

The simplest and most common is the first method, while the “seven” uses the second. Its essence, without going into details, is as follows.

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The main symptoms of a malfunction of the control center

The following symptoms indicate problems with the cylinder:

• the fluid level in the tank decreases, spots form under the car;
• the pedal begins to fail when pressed, the clutch does not work normally;
• There are difficulties with switching or turning off speeds; adjusting the drive does not help at all.

Masters recommend first of all paying attention to the operation of the pedal. Its soft movement or failure should immediately alert you, although this is not a reason for immediate repair of the hydraulic drive

But the reason for diagnostics is that you need to bleed the clutch. If there are air bubbles in the brake fluid, it is necessary to determine their “nature”. In 99 cases out of 100, air gets inside the RCS or GCS rods due to a violation of the tightness of the cuffs.

Preparing for repairs

Before putting the car in a pit and removing the box to replace the clutch, you need to visit the store and buy all the necessary spare parts:

• Clutch disc.
• Basket (drive disk).
• Release bearing.
• If necessary, clutch fork.
• If there is significant wear, the crown on the flywheel will also need to be replaced.
• Bolts securing the basket to the flywheel.

It is also important to have a good set of tools on hand, WD-40 penetrating lubricant, sometimes even a gas torch is necessary (if the bolts and nuts are very rusty).

It is advisable to carry out all the work in an inspection pit or overpass (it is unlikely that the average driver of a six will have a lift in the garage, so we do not mention it). If everything goes smoothly and the nuts unscrew well, you will complete all the work very quickly.

Place the car on the pit, fix it in one position by placing stops under the wheels. All work is divided into two stages: under the car and above it. Please note that there is no need to drain the oil, since if you dismantle it carefully, you will not spill a drop.

And don't forget about the alignment of the clutch disc. The price of a special device is quite high - about 500 rubles. but you can use a small piece of pipe without any problems, as long as the diameter is suitable.

Hydraulic drive installation

Replacing a mechanism involves purchasing it in a retail network or via the Internet. Installation work is performed in the following sequence:

1. The clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107 is put on the studs and pushed all the way to the base.
2. The nuts are screwed onto the fasteners and tightened with a wrench to “13”.
3. The union nut of the pipeline laid to the working hydraulic drive is screwed into the main cylinder.
4. The rubber tube is connected to a plastic connecting element and secured with a clamp.
5. The expansion tank is filled with brake fluid, which enters the main and slave cylinders of the clutch through tubes. Replacing the fluid in the system is mandatory due to wear products.

Upon completion of installation of parts, it is necessary to inspect and check the tightness of the nuts. Replacing the main or working clutch drive of a VAZ 2107 car ends with bleeding the system.

Replacement

The cost of this type of work in a car service starts from 550 rubles. But for most car enthusiasts, this operation is not so difficult to perform on their own.

• new GVC;
• brake fluid;
• set of wrenches with extension;
• syringe or rubber bulb.

1. Pump out the fluid from the hydraulic drive reservoir using a syringe or rubber bulb.
2. Remove the expansion tank and move it to the side so that it does not interfere with work.
3. Unscrew the tube with a 13mm wrench. Move it a little.
4. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the tank to the cylinder.
5. Unscrew the two nuts with a 13mm socket wrench and an extension.
6. Remove the master cylinder from the studs.
7. Replace the GCS with a new one.
8. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Bleeding the clutch

The replacement has been made, but you should not hit the road without bleeding the clutch system. The process is similar to bleeding the brakes and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Brake fluid is poured into the reservoir.
2. A hose is put on the master cylinder fitting, the other end is lowered into a bottle filled with liquid. This will show how air leaves the system during the pumping process.
3. The operation requires an assistant. One sits in the car and presses the clutch pedal 5-6 times on command, after which he leaves it pressed. The second one opens the fitting until the release of air stops. This is done several times until all air is removed from the clutch system.
4. Tighten the fitting and add fluid to the reservoir.

Conclusion

After replacing the clutch master cylinder and bleeding the entire system, you can safely hit the road without fear that the clutch will fail and the car will lose control because of it.

The main symptoms of a malfunction of the control center

The following symptoms indicate problems with the cylinder:

• the fluid level in the tank decreases, spots form under the car;
• the pedal begins to fail when pressed, the clutch does not work normally;
• There are difficulties with switching or turning off speeds; adjusting the drive does not help at all.

Masters recommend first of all paying attention to the operation of the pedal. Its soft movement or failure should immediately alert you, although this is not a reason for immediate repair of the hydraulic drive. But the reason for diagnostics is that you need to bleed the clutch

If there are air bubbles in the brake fluid, it is necessary to determine their “nature”. In 99 cases out of 100, air gets inside the RCS or GCS rods due to a violation of the tightness of the cuffs.

But the reason for diagnostics is that you need to bleed the clutch. If there are air bubbles in the brake fluid, it is necessary to determine their “nature”. In 99 cases out of 100, air gets inside the RCS or GCS rods due to a violation of the tightness of the cuffs.

Video.

To repair the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ car you will need: a key “8”, a screwdriver. 1. Remove the slave cylinder from the vehicle

2. With the clutch slave cylinder in a vice, unscrew the air release fitting. 3. Change the position of the cylinder in the vise. Carefully pry up the protective cap with a screwdriver and remove it along with the pusher.

4. Place the clutch cylinder horizontally in the vise again. Using a thin screwdriver, move the piston until it comes out of the cylinder and remove the piston.

5. Use a screwdriver to pry up the retaining ring on the piston and remove it, holding the spring.

6. Remove the spring from the piston.

7. Remove the washer and first o-ring from the piston.

8. Remove the second o-ring from the piston by carefully prying it off with a screwdriver. 9. Remove the protective cap from the pusher.

Remove the plug only if absolutely necessary (to replace the gasket under it if a brake fluid leak is detected).

Pay attention to the markings on the clutch slave cylinder housing - this will help you make your choice when purchasing auto parts.

10. Clean the holes in the cylinder and air outlet fitting. 11. The clutch slave cylinder mirror and the outer surface of the piston must not be damaged or scratched. 12. Inspect the spring. If there is mechanical damage, replace it. 13. Replace the O-rings. 14. Inspect the protective cap. If there is mechanical damage and signs of rubber aging, replace it. 15. Assemble the clutch slave cylinder in the reverse order of disassembly. Before assembly, wash all parts with clean brake fluid. Contact of mineral oil, kerosene, gasoline or diesel fuel is not allowed on the parts (to avoid swelling of the rubber parts).

Everyone believes that if a car has a simple design and low cost, then the VAZ-2106 clutch is not complicated. The clutch master cylinder, installed in the engine compartment and connected to the pedal, has a relatively complex structure.

Almost all modern budget cars are equipped with a cable transmission. Hydraulics are the domain of expensive cars. But the six was considered elite at one time, and the designers spared nothing for it. The hydraulic system imposes certain requirements - it is necessary to carry out timely replacement of elements and maintenance.

Clutch cylinder repair

To carry out the work, it is necessary to dismantle the entire assembly, first disconnecting all pipes and draining the liquid from the system. You should also prepare in advance a repair kit for the clutch master cylinder, which includes all parts subject to wear. Despite the fact that the design of the clutch master cylinder is not complicated, it is advisable to carry out the work by persons who have at least minimal experience in plumbing work. If the question of how to remove the clutch master cylinder is completely unclear, it is better to abandon repairs yourself and simply replace the cylinder with a new one.

After dismantling, the cylinder should be disassembled and its parts should be thoroughly washed with brake fluid (the use of solvents or gasoline is prohibited). It is also advisable to wash all parts from the repair kit that are planned to be used before installation.

After dismantling and completely disassembling the master cylinder into its component elements, you can begin to assess the technical condition of all parts. First of all, carefully inspect the piston, mirrors and sealing elements. Quite often, pockets of corrosion can be found on internal surfaces; they can be eliminated by careful treatment with fine-grained sandpaper. Multiple, extensive and accompanied by the presence of scuffing foci of corrosion indicate a violation of the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls.

It is recommended to replace all sealing elements with new ones, since when working under pressure, even minor defects inevitably lead to fluid leaks from the cylinder. It is not permissible to treat rubber seals with oils to facilitate assembly - this will lead to their swelling and the impossibility of normal functioning.

After all faults have been eliminated, the device can be reassembled in reverse disassembly sequence.

After replacing the clutch master cylinder or repairing it, the clutch system must be bled. This is a necessary measure to eliminate accumulated air bubbles, the presence of which is not allowed in the hydraulic drive system.

For bleeding, it is necessary to provide free access to the master cylinder, and for this it will be more convenient to drive some vehicle models into a pit or lift them on a hydraulic lift. New brake fluid is poured into the reservoir, a transparent tube is put on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with the same working fluid. By rhythmically operating the clutch pedal, the hydraulic drive is pumped until the release of air through the fitting stops completely. After this, the fitting is tightened and the car is ready for use.

Which one is better to put

On the VAZ 2101 it is necessary to install a hydraulic clutch designed for the VAZ 2101–07. Cylinders designed to work in UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable for installation on a “penny” car. The situation is similar with imported analogues. It will be quite problematic to introduce a GVC from any foreign car, which is due to different mounting of the unit, different threads and tube configuration. However, a hydraulic drive from a VAZ 2121 or from a Niva-Chevrolet is suitable for the “classic”.

Manufacturer's choice

Today there are many companies that manufacture clutch master cylinders. However, when choosing and purchasing the unit in question, preference should be given to the following manufacturers:

• JSC AvtoVAZ;
• Brick LLC;
• Kedr LLC;
• Fenox;
• ATE;
• TRIALLI.

When choosing GVCs, it is better to give preference to well-known manufacturers

The average cost of a hydraulic clutch is 500–800 rubles. However, there are products that cost about 1,700 rubles, for example, cylinders from ATE.

Table: comparison of hydraulic clutch actuators from different manufacturers by price and reviews

Procedure for bleeding the clutch

To bleed the clutch hydraulic drive you will need:

A rubber or plastic hose (tube) with a diameter suitable for tightly fitting the hose onto the drain fitting. Wrench (usually 8 by 10). A transparent vessel or reservoir for 200 ml of fresh liquid, for placing the second end of the hose into it. Fresh fluid to add to the clutch expansion tank. Important! Old contaminated fluid drained from the clutch hydraulic system cannot be poured back into the system. On some car brands, the drain fitting is located at the bottom, so you may need an inspection hole to get to it. To find out exactly where and how the clutch slave cylinder drain fitting is located in your car, study the “Operator's Manual”, in the “Clutch” section. It is advisable to wear rubber gloves, since brake fluid is considered toxic.. Important! In this case, it is necessary that the heavy object used not only prevents the pedal from returning back, but also exerts constant pressure on it, since when the fitting is unscrewed, the pedal will be pushed through and fall through.

Important! The pumping procedure is as follows:

Important! In this case, it is necessary that the heavy object used not only prevents the pedal from returning back, but also exerts constant pressure on it, since when the fitting is unscrewed, the pedal will be pushed through and fall through.

Important! The pumping procedure is as follows:

The first step is to check the fluid level in the clutch expansion tank. The tank must be filled completely, up to the neck. When inspecting the tank and adding fluid (if necessary), maintain cleanliness and prevent debris from entering the tank. Release the head of the working cylinder drain fitting from the protective cap and place a hose (tube) on it. The opposite end of the hose should be lowered into a container with fresh brake fluid

When air comes out of the hose into the liquid, air bubbles will be clearly visible. Important! During pumping, you cannot remove the second end of the hose from the liquid. Pump up pressure in the system using the clutch pedal. An assistant in the cabin must press the clutch pedal sharply and all the way 3-4 times

In this case, it is necessary that the pedal not only goes down to the stop, but also returns back to the stop. If the pedal “falls to the floor” and does not return to its original position on its own, you will have to return it with your hand or toe. The key here is to build up the pressure using maximum pedal travel. The interval between pressing the pedal should be approximately 2 seconds. Having pressed the pedal for the last time (the third or fourth), it must be left and held in the pressed position until it stops. While your partner holds the pedal all the way down, another person should unscrew the drain fitting of the working cylinder with the hose attached to it, about half a turn. After opening the drain fitting, old fluid from the working cylinder will begin to flow into the container with new brake fluid through the hose. With the old liquid leaving the cylinder, air will also come out, the presence of which can be judged by the air bubbles in the container with the new liquid. As the old contaminated fluid exits the clutch hydraulic system, the pedal pressed all the way by the second partner will begin to be pressed and lowered. You need to wait until the pedal is pressed all the way to the floor, and then immediately screw in (close) the drain fitting. The pedal cannot be released until the drain fitting is closed. Repeat the procedure of squeezing the pedal and opening/closing the fitting several more times until clean liquid without air begins to come out of the hose. If aired fluid continues to come out of the hose even after the system has been completely pumped and the fluid has been completely changed (approximately 1 liter), then you need to look for the reason why air is penetrating into the clutch hydraulic system. Important! During the pumping process, it is necessary to carefully monitor the liquid level in the expansion tank and not allow it to fall more than 35 mm from the edge of the neck. During the pumping process, the old fluid will drain into a container and leave the hydraulic system. Accordingly, the level in the tank will decrease, and if during the pumping process the liquid completely leaves the tank, then air will again enter the hydraulic system. Then you will not only have to start all over again, but also additionally waste new liquid, since the new liquid that has already been poured will merge into the container and mix there with the old one, and it will no longer be possible to pour it back. After pumping and obtaining the desired result, the fitting must be screwed in well, remove the hose and put a protective cap on the head of the fitting.

Typical faults

A large number of rubber gaskets and seals are used for various seals in the cylinder. Most often, they are the reason for the unsatisfactory performance of the GVC. The symptoms will be the following:

• the clutch does not disengage;
• the pedal is not pressed;
• brake fluid leaks on the cylinder body;
• The clutch pedal does not return to its original position.

Such signs are characteristic not only of a malfunction of the main circulation system. Only leaks of brake fluid on the body indicate it reliably. You will have to repair or change the clutch master cylinder of the VAZ-2107, the price in the second case will be noticeably higher, but the service life will also be longer.

• it is difficult to change gears;
• the driven disk slips;
• vibration appears;
• The pressure bearing whistles;
• the clutch is hard to disengage;
• The pedal does not return from the lower position.

Destruction of the pressure plate and basket casing can lead to very serious consequences

Almost any malfunction is accompanied by extraneous sounds - noise, knocking, whistling, etc.

When is clutch bleeding required?

Bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive may be necessary in the following cases:

1. Scheduled replacement of old fluid with new one.
   Any liquid loses its properties over time and requires replacement. For brake fluid, which is also used in the clutch hydraulic system, the shelf life (from the date of manufacture), even when unopened, can be 1 year in plastic containers and 2 years in metal ones. That is, the working fluid can still lose its properties regardless of whether it was used or not. The recommendations should be followed when it comes to replacing the working fluid in the clutch.
2. Clutch system repair.
   Like any mechanism, the clutch is subject to breakdowns and wear during operation, as a result of which it may require repairs (replacement of cuffs, seals, repair or replacement of the cylinder, elimination of leaks in the line, etc.). And as a result of repairs, the hydraulic system depressurizes with the leakage of working fluid or the entry of air into it.
3. Air entering the working fluid.
   Air entering the line with the clutch fluid can occur both during clutch repair and fluid replacement, and due to air leaks through micro-holes in the hoses, through loose connections, worn rubber seals and cuffs in the master and working cylinders.

How quickly air gets back into the fluid will depend on the severity of the problem.

Popular models and manufacturers

When choosing a non-original clutch slave cylinder, products from the following manufacturers are most often used:

1. Sachs. The German company is a leading manufacturer of clutch cylinders for most automobile brands of foreign and domestic manufacturers. The popularity is due to the high quality of products and the use of innovative developments.
2. Lukas. The largest manufacturer of auto parts, whose products meet all international quality standards. It produces brake cylinders for most automobile brands and repair kits for them.
3. Fenox. Specializing in the production of clutch and brake cylinders for more than 25 years. Supplies products to most automakers.
4. TRW. The company owns the Lukas brand and supplies brake system components, in particular brake cylinders, for all the world's largest automakers. The products are distinguished by their quality and extreme reliability.
5. LUK. Official partner of major automakers in terms of designing new developments and systems. Supplies clutch cylinders to assembly lines of most of the world's major automakers.

Source

Bleeding the system

The design of the VAZ-2106 clutch master cylinder is approximately the same as on a similar element of the brake system. Pumping is done in the same way:

1. The entire system is assembled, threaded connections are tightened.
2. Liquid is poured into the expansion tank to an average level.
3. A tube is put on the bleeder fitting and lowered into a small container with brake fluid.
4. An assistant presses the clutch pedal several times and then locks it in the pressed position.
5. At this time, unscrew the bleeder fitting a little so that the air comes out.

Repeat the last two steps several times until air stops escaping from the system. Be sure to monitor the brake fluid level. Otherwise, the mechanism will run dry, and it may be necessary to disassemble the VAZ-2106 clutch master cylinder for repair.

The clutch system performs the function of briefly disconnecting the internal combustion engine from the engine. As a result, the transmission of torque from the power unit to the drive shaft of the transmission stops. This system includes many components. One of them is the clutch master cylinder, which we will talk about today.

What is he?

This mechanism is a small casting made of cast iron steel with a flange for attachment to the body. On its top there is a plastic tank with a lid. It is attached to the body using a threaded fitting. Thanks to this mechanism, a special fluid enters the clutch master cylinder. Inside the cast iron part there is a piston with a cuff and an o-ring. There is also a spring resting on it. It compresses the piston to the extreme right position. When these parts heat up, expansion occurs, and accordingly, the liquid in the system must go somewhere. For these cases, there is a special compensation hole through which it enters the tank from the cylinder cavity.

How does 2107 work?

This mechanism is designed in such a way that each time you press the clutch pedal, it moves forward using a pusher. And when the piston closes the hole, the pressure in the cylinder increases. Thus, the fluid flows to the working cylinder and disengages the clutch. When the pedal is released, a similar action occurs, only in reverse order. The liquid flows back - the valves open, the spring compresses and it moves from the working cylinder to the main one. If the pressure level drops to a point below the spring compression force, the first part closes and more pressure is generated in the system. This is necessary to sample the gaps of the mechanical part of the drive.