VAZ 2114 power steering from what year

External tuning is of course great, but until the internal work is done, it’s still not worth starting. Today we’ll talk about such an important thing as the power steering on the VAZ 2115. The device is a combination of several components. This is a special pump and actuator. As a rule, the last element is combined with the VAZ 2115 steering rack.

Manufacturers do not install power steering, but its installation is still provided. The equipment itself will cost a tidy sum, but here the car enthusiast decides for himself: is tuning a VAZ 2115 worth that kind of money? After purchasing a new device, you need to go to a service center and order the installation of power steering. However, you can do all the work yourself.

Power steering for 2115 - review

I bought a power steering kit from 2110 - it included almost all the related spare parts.

In addition to the generator bracket, you need a Granta with a tensioner. Later I bought it. The original generator fits there without any problems.

We remove the old rack and steering column. For convenience, I dismantled the receiver and VUT. It can be easily pulled out through the side holes of the tie rods.

To connect the new rail to the seats, you will have to cut a hole into the interior, otherwise there is no other way. I got it like this, then I’ll cover it with a duster.

Now about the nuances, I will also talk about this in the video. It is necessary to file the pump bracket, as it will rest against the engine support.

I installed the original steering rods, pressing in the 2110 steel blocks, since the original ones have a protrusion and have a smaller mounting hole.

About the steering column, I simply dismantled the old one and installed one from 2110, without any extensions or filing of the steering shaft. Everything fits bolt to bolt.

I routed the lines, replaced the return line with a resistant hose for gasoline oil, since the original 2110 pipes do not fit structurally.

The high pressure hose ran down the bottom, next to the gearbox. The fastener came out very well, just the perfect place. We fix it to the ignition coil bolt, next to the starter.

Location of the power steering reservoir - I decided to place it near the right pillar, probably the best place. I haven't decided on the mounting yet.

Source

Basic functions of power steering

The main functions of the power steering include:

Softening shocks transmitted to the steering wheel when driving on uneven surfaces. As a result, overall fatigue is reduced (even during long-term driving), and the control process is simplified in the event of any systems failure;
reduction of gear ratio. Thanks to this quality, the number of turns of the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other is minimal. Consequently, the vehicle’s maneuverability increases significantly;
maintaining vehicle controllability even if the power steering fails. At the same time, the previous rigidity of rotation of the steering wheel returns;
guarantee of road sensation (feedback) in any situation and the effect of kinematic tracking action.

EGUR in VAZ 2114. Power steering

Good afternoon. YES, exactly EGUR,

and not gur or eur.
EGUR - electric hydraulic power steering. The day came when the original rail fell apart and began to beat and eat in the yards. And as they say, “ Everything that doesn’t break, everything needs tuning
.” Since 80% of my trips are in the city, parking lots and courtyards, I wanted to update the rack and make it easier to turn the steering wheel in the courtyards. The first option that I considered was a new rack and electric power steering. But I wanted to reduce the number of steering revolutions. Regular power steering is not available to me because there is an air conditioning compressor. 2. Tuned short rack and e-ur, but it turns out to be very expensive and also a collective farm cardan.

The third option came quite by accident when I saw an electric power steering pump. The most common and quite reliable is trw 1 or trw 2 from Opel. By the way, the prices for them are different everywhere from 2.5k to 10k...

The power steering rack from 2112/Prior has a speed of 2.7. The shorter rack is only a very tuned version of the rack, which will most likely fall apart very quickly. Also, the rack with power steering is its own damper. And as far as I know, the original racks for the 2112/Prior are made using FZ components (should be very reliable).

3. power steering rack, power steering electric pump from Opel. (this is my option)

I found the rail along with the mustache and hoses for 2500 rubles. 500 rub. I took the steering column with the cardan from 2112 Pump trw 2 for 4500 along with the mount and hoses. New steering tips 2110, 1000 rub. 1200 rub. spent splicing hydraulic hoses from Priors and Opels.

An electric pump has several advantages. 1. removes the load from the engine 2. turns off when there is no liquid 3. when driving straight or at low load, puts almost no load on the generator.

Reading about installing the power steering in chisels, I realized that it was enough to cut a hole in the engine shield, but it didn’t seem that way. I had to slightly trim the technological hole in order to insert the rail; no matter how hard I twisted it, it didn’t want to get in.

I cut a hole in the engine shield with a jigsaw and a metal file

There was still the question of placement of the pump; it is quite massive. You can stick it in place of the absorber, but I didn’t want to remove/move the absorber.

The option is under the left front fender, there is a lot of unused space there. Having thrown off the bumper, I began to try it on.

The approximate location should be like this, the pump is slightly tilted so that you have access to the lid if you need to add liquid. If you remove the collar, you can easily unscrew the lid

But the fender liner will have to be modified because the fender liner no longer stands up and its absence is not acceptable

for me.

The connection of the pump is very simple, essentially 4 wires.

THICK

red power + connected to the battery through a 60A fuse (somewhere it says that you need through 80A) (I bought a box from Gazelle Business for 150 rubles.)
THICK
Brown - ground on the body (I hung it on the ground on the battery). Thin wires: White and blue - generator output to the charging lamp. I threw it directly to the generator for the Black test - +12V (when turned on) from the ignition switch. Brown and white - K-LINE to the diagnostic socket - not used.

I poured the liquid for the dough with the first one I found in the store, and already replaced it.

I measured the hoses with a regular hose and took them to the RVD service in Tula. I spliced the second part of the VAZ and Opel hydraulic hose. The guys from RVD-service offered me a solution with a rotary coupling, which was very useful to me. It cost 1200 rubles.

Source

Installation instructions

When installing an electric power steering, it is necessary to take into account that it will be necessary to replace the steering column of the VAZ 2114 with an “electrically driven column”. To do this, let's start with the wiring. You will need to deal with the pads. There will be no need for any “twists”. There is a terminal in the block that we need to remove and insert into the block in the harness.

We insert the free terminal of the harness exactly into the place where the standard wire was. You don't need a special harness for this. Connect two 4 square wires to the battery. Don't forget to connect a 50A fuse. The “weak point” will connect to the tachometer, speed sensor, ground, K-line and wiring to the warning lamp. Don't forget to check the presence of speedometer and tachometer signals.

Remove the casing with switches and ignition switch.
Unscrew the bolt on the rail and remove it. We need to determine how much larger the “native” part is than our new one.
We install the shaft on the EUR. After this we attach the shaft itself in its place.
Setting up the wiring. We stretch two cables to the battery from the passenger compartment, preferably through the left wing. To conduct wiring you can:

First remove the washer fluid reservoir.
Take a solid wire and drag it through, trying to get to the hood.
As soon as it appears near the hood, we attach our wires to it.

We pull it out together with our wire.

We connect the EUR electronics. There is a red connector under the instrument panel with an orange wire in it. It is to this that you need to connect the electric amplifier.
Similar procedures must be done with the gray wire.
We connect the power ends. In the battery we connect the pink one is a plus, and the black one is a minus.

Installing an EUR on a VAZ 2114 or power steering?

2001 was the year of the appearance of a new project from the domestic automaker AvtoVAZ. The model had two names - Samara-2 or VAZ 2114. In fact, it was an improved version of the well-known nine.

EUR kit

The modernization turned out to be very serious, affecting literally all components of the car. The steering system was no exception. Unlike many other models produced by AvtoVAZ, the 2114 offered a choice of two power steering units - hydraulic power steering and electric power steering .

The nuances of adjusting the steering wheel position

If you are not satisfied with the position of the steering wheel or its height, this can be corrected by adjustment. To do this, it is necessary to grind the edges of the industrial shaft to the required dimensions or install gaskets between the device body and the plate. When making adjustments, you must remember that the EUR itself is automatically turned off when the vehicle speed exceeds 50 km/h.

Price issue

The cost of electric power steering for a VAZ 2114 car may vary, depending on the store where it is purchased, as well as the region of the country. On average, the price for a complete system set varies around 22-24 thousand rubles. On the Internet, you can search for stores where the EUR kit is sold on promotions - with a discount from the seller, you can purchase the unit for 20 thousand rubles.

Types and advantages of power steering

The steering of the VAZ 2114 has undergone significant changes when compared with its predecessors in the form of the first generation Samara. Driving has become really better.

Installation kit

Customers had the opportunity to choose between electric power steering and power steering, that is, electric power steering and power steering. But how do these systems differ from each other, which one should you prefer and why? Let's try to figure this out.

Electric booster

Electric power steering operates using pulses of electrical current. This is a rather complex system in which each individual part has its own important role. Because of this, when at least one unit fails, the operation of the entire device is disrupted, it can completely stop working.

Electromechanical amplifier circuit

The task of the car owner whose car has an EUR installed is to constantly monitor the condition of the unit. A special controller is responsible for the operation of current pulses. With its help, the driver can independently set the degree of gain.

The EUR performs several tasks.

Power steering

The hydraulic booster includes a large number of elements that require not only constant monitoring, but also careful handling.

The operating principle of the power steering is based on the interaction of the steering with the oil fluid, which is contained in a special container. This is where the name of the type of amplifier comes from, since the work is based on the force of the working fluid.

Despite the rather complex technology, power steering is effective, safe, provides comfortable control, and allows you to control the behavior of the car even if the front wheels break down.

Alas, the hydraulic booster is not without its drawbacks. The main one is frequent breakdowns. They arise mainly due to leakage of working fluid.

The functions of the power steering are as follows:

Characteristics of power steering

Power steering is a power steering mechanism that controls the rack, the principle of operation of which is based on cooperation with oil fluid. The advantage of power steering is improved operation at low speeds. This makes parking much easier. If you have to drive on a bad road, the amplifier helps to reduce the impact of impacts on the control rack, and here the VAZ power steering is especially important, because these cars cannot have an impeccable suspension that perfectly filters road bumps.

The disadvantages of the system include quite difficult repairs, not only for foreign cars, but also for a regular VAZ 2110 car. To avoid oil leakage, you need to completely change it every couple of years. The oil is very sensitive to large temperature changes, which is also bad. In severe frosts or, conversely, in hot weather, the oil may leak again. All these aspects make the power steering not as nice as the electric steering. To avoid unpleasant moments with urgent equipment repairs, you should know a few common rules:

It is important to keep the oil level under control at all times;
density needs to be inspected;
the belt tension should be adjusted from time to time;
Under no circumstances should you leave a car with its wheels turned out.

READ What kind of trunk does a Volkswagen Polo have?

Repairing the power steering control rack of a VAZ 2110 can cost from 2,000 to 4,000 rubles, depending on the complexity of the work. We live in a progressive age, when former technical imperfections and defects are a thing of the past. What was considered mystical just 10, even 5 years ago is becoming everyday life now. One of the more important achievements of the 20th century, which is becoming increasingly relevant in the 21st century, was power steering.

Previously, power steering was installed on almost all trucks and significantly improved the maneuverability of the control of these giants on wheels. Now it is installed not only on trucks, but also on cars. Hydraulic and electric amplifiers have their own design features that allow you to make a choice in favor of one system or another.

Complexity of the installation process

As the amplifier is introduced, there will be difficulties associated with changing the body, so you need to be prepared for this. The necessary elements are purchased independently. The installation process will be accompanied by the addition of a pump with its mount and belt, a reservoir for working fluid, a distributor, hoses, tubes, and an actuator. All parts must be properly secured. ATF is often used as a working fluid. But there are other options, including those indicated in the instructions accompanying the purchased parts

Reduced effort in movement

Moving along a straight path and a flat surface, driving the VAZ 2112 does not cause much trouble. But when entering a sharp turn, changing the trajectory of the car requires effort.

This is due to the fact that it is affected by centripetal acceleration, the vector of which is directed perpendicular to the car. At such moments, power steering will be very useful.

Arguments in favor of hydraulic booster

Aspects that indicate the need to install this device are as follows:

Facilitation of parking;
Reduced effort on long turns;
Increased ease of control on the road.

As you can see from the list, there are few arguments. But for some drivers they are very important.

Arguments against the amplifier

After analyzing the positive factors, the driver will immediately want to install an amplifier for himself. But besides the positive, there are also negative aspects. These include:

Repair costs;
Labor intensive installation process;
Changes in body design.

The power steering mechanism of the VAZ 2112 has significant shortcomings. The degree of their significance for the driver determines the further decision. The existing aspects should be assessed as objectively as possible.

Disadvantages of power steering and electric power steering

Many car owners prefer installing electric power steering on the VAZ 2114 as a replacement for the standard power steering. However, is such a decision justified from a practical point of view?

Connection

To answer this question, it is necessary to consider not only the positive aspects of this or that amplifier, which we have already done, but also point out their main disadvantages.

What is better for the VAZ 2114? Let's try to figure this out.

With this short list the list of shortcomings can be completed. But it is worth paying attention to some nuances.

Repair of VAZ 21099

Replacing the inner CV joint boot VAZ 21099 photo

Change windshield wiper blades VAZ 21099

Remove the interior trim of VAZ 21099 photo report

Replace bumper VAZ 21099 video

Removing the instrument panel VAZ 21099

Removing the rear door trim of a VAZ 21099

Replace rear window VAZ 21099

Replacing the wheel stud VAZ 21099

Replace rear struts VAZ 21099

Change steering rod VAZ 21099

Change the oil in the automatic transmission of VAZ 21099

Removing the window lifter handle VAZ 21099 photo report

Installing the clutch disc VAZ 21099 video

Repair of cylinder head gasket VAZ 21099 photo

Installation of air conditioner filter VAZ 21099

Replace bushings on the VAZ 21099 starter photo report

How to change stabilizer bushings VAZ 21099

Change the reverse lamp VAZ 21099

Repair of generator brushes VAZ 21099

How to remove the clutch pedal VAZ 21099 photo

Repair of front shock absorbers VAZ 21099

Replace the cigarette lighter fuse VAZ 21099

Change the rack seal on a VAZ 21099 photo report

Repair of valve seals VAZ 21099

Installing a VAZ 21099 pump video

Replacing the VAZ 21099 engine filter

How to remove the seat trim of a VAZ 21099

Replacing the tension roller of the VAZ 21099 generator belt

Installation of front springs VAZ 21099

Installation of DMRV VAZ 21099

Automatic transmission filter repair VAZ 21099 video

Replace mass air flow sensor VAZ 21099

Repair of idle speed sensor VAZ 21099 photo

Replacing the air conditioning compressor VAZ 21099

Remove the front seat VAZ 21099

Replacing the front wheel bearing VAZ 21099

Removing the ceiling trim VAZ 21099

Replace the interior light bulb of VAZ 21099 video

How to replace the rear brake pads of a VAZ 21099

Removing the driver's door trim VAZ 21099 video

Timing chain repair VAZ 21099

Installing crankcase protection VAZ 21099

Removing head restraints VAZ 21099

How to change the cabin filter VAZ 21099

Change front struts VAZ 21099

Installing a VAZ 21099 heater radiator video

Change the oil in the VAZ 21099 engine video

Repair of ball joint VAZ 21099

Remove clutch cylinder VAZ 21099

Replace the outer CV joint boot of VAZ 21099

Change antifreeze VAZ 21099

Replace the lamp in the dashboard of VAZ 21099 photo report

Change fog lamps VAZ 21099

Repair of silent blocks of the rear beam of VAZ 21099 photo

Change the air conditioner belt VAZ 21099

Change the lamp in the turn signals of VAZ 21099

Replace the boot on a VAZ 21099 grenade

Repair of rear wheel bearing VAZ 21099

Change the oil in the power steering VAZ 21099

Replace the manifold gasket VAZ 21099 photo report

Change engine mounts VAZ 21099

Change the side mirror VAZ 21099

Replace ignition coil VAZ 21099 photo

Change rear shock absorbers VAZ 21099 photo

How to remove the window lift motor VAZ 21099

Removing the steering wheel VAZ 21099

Change the cylinder head gasket VAZ 21099

Change engine mounts VAZ 21099

Replacing the fuel pump VAZ 21099 video

Installation of gearbox seal VAZ 21099

Replacing the air conditioner radiator VAZ 21099 photo report

Change the silent blocks of the front levers VAZ 21099

Repair of retractor relay VAZ 21099

Removing the clutch fork VAZ 21099

Installation of VAZ 21099 gearbox

Installation of brake light lamp VAZ 21099

How to replace the temperature sensor VAZ 21099 video

Repair of a stud on a VAZ 21099 hub

How to remove the window regulator VAZ 21099

Remove the right headlight VAZ 21099

Windshield repair VAZ 21099 video

Replacing piston rings VAZ 21099

Change the lamp in the dimensions of the VAZ 21099

Remove the radiator grill VAZ 21099 video

Remove the rear seat VAZ 21099

Replacing brake pipes VAZ 21099 video

Installing a VAZ 21099 seat belt

Change the engine oil seal VAZ 21099

Remove the front wing of VAZ 21099

Replacing wipers VAZ 21099

Replace steering rack VAZ 21099 video

How to change the glove compartment of a VAZ 21099

Repair of rear wheel bearing VAZ 21099

Repair of ignition switch VAZ 21099

How to replace the oil filter VAZ 21099 video

Replace king pin VAZ 21099

Repair of spark plugs VAZ 21099

Change the lamp in the glove compartment VAZ 21099

Installing engine protection VAZ 21099

Repair of air filter VAZ 21099

Possible problems

Some drivers note that in a VAZ 2114 with a hydraulic booster, the control system becomes as if weightless. This can be confusing. When the gain is lost, the steering wheel has to be turned more often.

A fairly common problem caused by the fact that the hydraulic booster operates directly from the power unit. In order to correct the situation, the hydrach is connected not directly to the engine, but using a gain regulator. Another option is to use an amplifier with an electric drive function. Today, such a device is not difficult to find, and it costs relatively little.

Wiring

As for replacing the hydraulic booster with an electric booster, this is a more than possible option for improving the car. It is considered one of the simplest but most effective types of technical tuning. However, it is strongly not recommended to perform such operations yourself.

Choose specialized car services that specialize in technical modifications and tuning of the car. AvtoVAZ cars, which include the VAZ 2114, are beautiful because they are literally created for tuning. Many young drivers choose the “fourteenth” model as their first car. This is due to the wide possibilities for modification with minimal investment. This car lends itself perfectly to external tuning, and the current spare parts market makes it possible to improve the internal filling. This includes replacing the power steering with electric power steering.

Why does the heater motor fail?

Is it possible to do without replacing this part and try to restore its functionality on your own? Theoretically, yes. But in reality this happens quite rarely, since setting up a fan is a difficult task even for experienced craftsmen.

The main reasons why the stove motor malfunctions are:

fuse burnt out. This breakdown is not difficult to perform, since the safety element also protects the cigarette lighter, glove compartment light and headlight washer from short circuits. Of course, if it malfunctions, this equipment will also not work;
failure of the fan winding;
problems with the ignition relay. If warm air begins to enter the cabin only after the engine has warmed up, then the problem is in this part;
failure of the resistor, which allows you to configure the heater to operate in several modes;
The contacts on the motor block are oxidized.

As we have already found out, in case of any fan failure, it is best to replace it - this will save you money and time, and will also ensure an optimal climate in the car interior.

Types and advantages of power steering

The steering of the VAZ 2114 has undergone significant changes when compared with its predecessors in the form of the first generation Samara. Driving has become really better.

Installation kit

Electric booster

Diagram of an electromechanical amplifier
The task of the car owner, whose car has an EUR installed, is to constantly monitor the condition of the unit. A special controller is responsible for the operation of current pulses. With its help, the driver can independently set the degree of gain.

The EUR performs several tasks.

Power steering

The hydraulic booster includes a large number of elements that require not only constant monitoring, but also careful handling.

Despite the rather complex technology, power steering is effective, safe, provides comfortable control, and allows you to control the behavior of the car even if the front wheels break down.

Alas, the hydraulic booster is not without its drawbacks. The main one is frequent breakdowns. They arise mainly due to leakage of working fluid.

The functions of the power steering are as follows:

How does power steering work?

The operating principle of power steering is very simple. When the steering wheel does not rotate, a special spool in the distributor body is in the neutral position (for this purpose, special centering springs are installed at its edges).

In this case, the liquid in the system moves freely through the distributor cavity. In a stationary steering wheel position, the pump drives fluid through the system and does not perform any additional actions.

As soon as the steering wheel turns, the spool moves and the drain line closes.

As a result, the oil enters the working part of the cylinder under a certain pressure and causes the wheels to rotate. When the steering wheel stops rotating, the spool returns to its place.

Above we mentioned the quality of the hydraulic booster as providing a “feel for the road.” The meaning here is simple. The system simplifies the driving process for the driver and helps to turn the steering wheel correctly in various modes (dry asphalt, icy conditions, etc.).

That is, on a slippery surface the steering wheel should rotate more easily than on a dry road. This is achieved by adding various elements to the system - washers, chambers, plungers, and so on.

It turns out that the greater the resistance that occurs when turning the wheels, the greater the force required to put pressure on the cylinder and the stronger the steering wheel needs to be rotated.

The system is also effective when hitting obstacles, when the wheel tends to turn and change direction. As a rule, this does not happen due to the minimum stroke of the spool.

Another big plus of the system is the absorption of almost all shocks and shocks transmitted from the road.

If for some reason the hydraulic booster becomes unusable, then the ability to control the wheels is retained. But the force is no longer transmitted by the liquid under pressure, but by the spool itself acting on the distributor.

Next, a command is given to the wheels themselves. The only negative is that you will have to put in a lot more effort to turn the wheel.

Power steering is a reliable and high-quality system. But it will last a long time only with high-quality (and most importantly, timely) maintenance and repair. Have a good trip and of course no breakdowns.

Disadvantages of power steering and electric power steering

Connection
To answer this question, it is necessary to consider not only the positive aspects of this or that amplifier, which we have already done, but also point out their main disadvantages.

What is better for the VAZ 2114? Let's try to figure this out.

With this short list the list of shortcomings can be completed. But it is worth paying attention to some nuances.

Functionality check

After you have connected all the elements of the system, you need to install the steering wheel and check the functionality of the mechanism. If you are satisfied with the work, then you need to assemble all the elements in the reverse order. After this, start the engine and try turning the steering wheel at low speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjwdqpR7BkE

In this case, the electric drive should work to help you turn the wheels in the desired direction. Then you need to accelerate the car. At high speed, the electric power steering on the VAZ-2114 should not work. Otherwise, you most likely made a mistake when connecting the wires coming from the sensors.

Possible problems

Wiring

What is needed for installation

Replacing coolant in Lada 2115 (VAZ 2115)
You will need to purchase electric power steering directly for the VAZ-2114; user reviews of various manufacturers of these devices are only positive. And the cost of such devices ranges from 15,000 to 25,000 rubles. The following elements must also be included in the kit:

Plate for installing electric drive. With its help, an adapter is made between the electric power steering brackets and the standard one.
Cardan shaft to connect your car's steering rack and electric power steering shaft.
Electrical wiring kit for installing the device.

If you purchase this device in a store, be sure to check the package contents. If some elements are not in the box, then it is better not to buy the device, as problems may arise during installation.

Power steering in VAZ 2114

The VAZ 2114 car is one of the most used and purchased today. This is a modification of the same “nine” that became widespread right from the release of the first series from the factory assembly line. The same car received a lot of new products at its disposal: from an injection engine and a soft suspension to softly comfortable seats.

There is also power steering, it is designed to help the driver control the car and reduce fatigue when traveling long distances.

VAZ 2114

The need for power steering

VAZ 2112 cars coming off the factory assembly line do not contain power steering. This fact may indicate that the machine simply does not need such a device. However, you can find power steering on sale and install it yourself. Before buying anything, spending time and effort, it would be wise to weigh all the facts.

Repair costs

Over time, any mechanism wears out and needs repair. It is clear that an increase in the number of mechanisms inevitably leads to increased costs for their maintenance and repair.

When installing the amplifier, the following malfunctions may occur:

Loss of system tightness;
Broken or loose pump belt;
Malfunction of the distributor;
Destruction of rubber parts;
System clogged.
Wear and failure of the working cylinder.

Depending on the malfunction, there is a need for certain purchases and associated costs. Not only monetary expenses, but also time will be needed in such situations.

Types of devices

Power steering is a device with which the working fluid creates pressure on the steering rack. Due to this, the driver needs to apply much less force to the steering wheel to move it. There are several types of such equipment, let's look at the main disadvantages of all other models of amplifiers and it will become clear why the power steering was installed on the VAZ 2114, and, in general, on most modern cars. In addition to this, there are such options in the world:

The first option is next after the hydraulic one in terms of its prevalence. Its action is based on the use of magnetic forces to rotate the steering axis. But there is also a noticeable disadvantage here - the energy consumption of the battery, which immediately begins to affect the fuel consumption of the car.

The pneumatic one is very complex; there are a lot of elements: a cylinder, a compressor, pipelines and pipes, a reinforcing mechanism, etc. This entire design is very unreliable and the slightest malfunction in the operation of at least one component leads to the absence of an effect as such. The mechanical amplifier looks like a set of different gears in the body and its effect is achieved due to a changed rotation ratio, here there is minimal gain.

Power steering VAZ 2114

That is why today you can most often find power steering on a car; it was precisely because of its reliability, simplicity and efficiency that it was chosen for installation on the VAZ 2114. The most dangerous breakdown that can happen is a leak of working fluid. Next, we will look at how to correctly understand and determine the location of the leak in the system and how to correctly replace the working fluid in a VAZ 2114.

Heater fan replacement procedure

The first step is to remove the positive terminal from the car battery to turn off the power supply to the old motor. After this we perform the following steps:

in the engine compartment of the car, remove the fan casing and unscrew the screws that hold the part in place;
remove the air supply grille, which is secured with special bolts;
remove the rubber seal located directly under the grille;
remove the dashboard from the driver's seat and disconnect the wires connected to the motor;
slightly move the motor together with the protective casing, removing it from the clamps and removing the non-working part;
remove the fan from the casing;
we connect to the car’s electrical network and mount a new motor, after which we reassemble in the reverse order;
connect the terminal to the battery and check the functionality of the stove.

We strongly recommend choosing a new and original motor to ensure trouble-free operation for a long time. If you still buy a used part, be sure to check its technical condition, integrity of contacts, and operability.

As you can see, the procedure for installing a new heater motor on a VAZ-2115 car does not require a lot of time, special skills and knowledge. Therefore, it is absolutely not necessary to take such a minor problem to a car service center, where the cost of such repairs can be quite high. Just buy a new part and install it, following all the recommendations given in our instructions.

Change of oil

So, opening the hood we can see the first and most noticeable element, which includes the power steering. In general, the remaining elements fit into the steering gear housing and are no longer distributed throughout the engine compartment and car body. We will also immediately need some kind of container into which we will drain the already used liquid. Anything can fit, even a bucket, even a canister. We do not recommend that you throw away the drained oil; it will be quite useful in some minor repairs just for lubrication. Under no circumstances should you add it to the already new oil of your VAZ 2114: the oil must be homogeneous. You also need to let the car engine cool down so that everything cools down and if the oil gets on your hands, it doesn’t burn your skin.

Now we need to drain the oil from the expansion tank. To do this, you need to uncork the lid and carefully pull out the hose that sticks out at the bottom of the tank.

In its place, you immediately need to insert the hose that is lowered into the container that we prepared in advance to drain the already used liquid. Now, under the influence of gravity, the oil will slowly ooze into our container.

The next step is to start the engine, and you immediately need to start turning the steering wheel from side to side so that the pump begins to pump oil through the system through the tank, and little of it will be poured into the container. This procedure must be done until the power steering stops working and the steering wheel stops moving. Thus, it turned out that there was no fluid left in the steering system of the VAZ 2114.

Now you need to immediately proceed to pouring new oil. We must turn off the engine and return to its place the hose that was originally at the bottom of the tank. Fill two-thirds of the oil tank level and start the engine. Now you need to turn the steering wheel again from side to side so that the power steering is pumped with oil and the air is released from the system.

You also need to leave the tank lid open to allow air to escape. As the liquid leaves the tank, we will need to add oil. You will have to turn the steering wheel until the oil stops leaving, after which you need to tightly seal the tank.

That's all, this is exactly how the working fluid is replaced in the amplifier of a VAZ 2114 car. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about it, you can easily do it yourself and even without help. The oil must be selected carefully so that it is ideally suited to the design of this car.

The grenade replacement process in detail

To begin with, before starting the replacement procedure itself, you need to decide on the tools. So, what will you need when replacing the internal grenade:

knobs and heads 13-17;
keys 17, 30 and 19;
jack;
lamp;
pliers;
CV joint lubrication;
wheel wrench;
directly the spare part itself.

Go!

Now that everything is assembled, you can begin the replacement procedure:

We remove the lower engine protection.
Drain the oil from the gearbox.
Using a wheel wrench, remove the wheel.
Using a 30 mm socket, unscrew the nut securing the outer CV joint.
We jack up the car.
Disconnect the ball joint from the hub.
We pull out the CV joint from the hub.
Under the hood, using a pry bar, we pull out the inner CV joint from the gearbox.
Now, you can pull the shaft drive out, complete with grants.
For convenience, we clamp it in a vice.
Using pliers, remove the boot clamp.
We remove the boot.
We take out the grenade.
Installation is carried out in the reverse order, with all consumables replaced. It is necessary to place CV joint lubricant in the boot.

Grenade selection

The choice of the inner CV joint should be taken seriously and carefully, since it is one of the main drive parts of the car. As practice shows, this part quite often fails on cars of the VAZ 2113-2115 family. Therefore, it is worth carefully selecting a spare part not only by price, but also by quality.

Original

2108-2215056 - original catalog number of the internal grenade for the VAZ-2114. The average cost is 2000 rubles . Fitting the fasteners is easy and does not require any modifications.

Analogs

In addition to original spare parts, you can find quite a lot of analogues on the automotive market, which are in no way inferior to the original in quality and price. All of them are certified and recommended for installation on this vehicle. So, let's look at what analogues can be installed on the VAZ-2114:

Some VAZ-2114 owners recommend tripoid grenades for installation.

EUR from Priora

And hello again, my subscribers and non-subscribers))) I had the opportunity to install this miracle on my car, an EUR from Priora, for which many thanks to the guys from Surgut))) Tell me that if everything is adjusted and inflated, then the steering wheel is already light , I’ll say one thing - go through the forest and whoever imposes such an opinion on you, send him there, since it will never happen with the EUR!
Okay, enough demagoguery, let's start)) Everything you need will be in the course of the play, because I don’t remember)))

We begin to disassemble and destroy all this disgrace))) We begin to remove the entire steering column, there will be a couple of ambushes there. The first is after you remove the steering wheel, steering casing, contact group, disconnect the wires and unscrew the front two studs, these will be two distant studs with break-off heads, a chisel, a hammer, a couple of swear words in the pose of the letter “zyu” and you’re done, unscrew ... and almost immediately a second ambush awaits us, this is the cardan itself. We unscrew it with a 13 key and again take a hammer, a chisel, someone’s mother and unclench the place where the cardan is attached to the steering rack, remove it and breathe a sigh of relief

While everything is free, we pass the wiring, plus and minus, through the headlight hydraulic corrector plug

Then we attach the adapter plate under the EUR itself

Before attaching it, you need to unscrew the two front studs and replace them with M8*25 bolts and in place of the shear bolts; you can install longer M6*25 bolts, there will be enough space there

Next, we put the universal steering cardan on the EUR itself

The meaning of the universality of the cardan is that it extends by about 5-6 centimeters. By the way, the entire installation kit (Adapter plate, cardan and wiring harness) was purchased at the turbo club store clubturbo.ru/market/podve…ilitel_rulya_na_vaz_2108/ here is the link, I picked it up myself, they are located on the 9th clearing (Admins, do not consider this an advertisement).

In short, we put everything in its rightful place, screw it in

For those who don’t know, the ignition switch is also attached to bolts with shear heads, we buy the same ones and put them in their place...

Further, if we want to leave the original steering wheel with the original contact group, this will not work, because the reach of the steering wheel will increase by 6 or maybe more millimeters (I haven’t checked) and it will rest in your belly button))) I had a 12 wheel with a Europanel (Kalinovsky) it will not fit, the offset will be large...

To do this, we take the contact group (the place where the lever for the turn signals and wipers is inserted) from the Chevy Niva, and that’s exactly what we say in the store

Well, we connect the wires for the operation of the EUR itself, this is a tachometer, speedometer and plus from the ignition

I won’t describe how to disassemble the panel on the 4))) I used three diagrams

There is nothing complicated, just don’t forget that the wires on the terminals are counted on the white block from right to left, through the top row, and on the red block from left to right, through the bottom row. In short, we connected, checked, were happy and continued to collect everything)))

As I wrote above, the steering wheel that I had from Priora2 will not fit

Further, I also had steering column covers from the 12 with a Europanel, they will not fit (by the way, someone here wrote on the drive that they are suitable). They will not fit in the places for the turn signals, for this you need to buy a cover from Priora

In general, we put everything on and rejoice, this is a fucking thing)))

Emotions are only positive, you turn the steering wheel with one finger, negative ones - the muscles don’t develop))) That’s all, maybe I didn’t finish some unimportant detail, there will be questions, I’ll be happy to answer)))

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