Electric power steering on a VAZ 2110: do-it-yourself installation (used price)

VAZ 2110 cars are equipped with electric power steering, which makes drivers incredibly happy. This addition significantly improves the maneuverability and controllability of the car, which allows the driver to feel more confident on the road.

In addition, the driver does not need to exert much effort to control the steering wheel, which makes it possible to make long trips without feeling tired.

Electric power steering for VAZ 2110 cars can be installed independently if necessary, but to do this you need to understand the device.

Story

Back in 2002, engineers from the Novosibirsk Technical University developed this electric power steering, which has become so popular. After all stages of creating the device were completed, the device was tested at the VAZ plant for several years.

Russian manufacturers have done everything to ensure reliable and high-quality advantages of the unit over similar foreign-made devices. The amplifier uses alternating current, which ensures reliable and durable operation.

Priora electric power steering diagram

But the main thing for our drivers was the acceptable cost of this unit, much lower than that of Western components. In addition, the electric booster can become a reliable protector against theft. Since electric amplifiers were invented for domestic brands, they are produced accordingly in Russia, at the Berdsk Electromechanical Plant, which became a subsidiary of VAZ.

The electric power steering itself was first invented and implemented back in 1990 in Japan at the factories of the Toyota concern. The first advantages of the device that it showed were characterized by the following indicators:

The unit operates even when the engine is turned off;
When the component operates, significant fuel savings may be observed over a period of time;
All controllability indicators are significantly improved;
Control reliability reaches great heights;
Creates good safety conditions for constant driving.

A little history

The first electric amplifiers were produced in Japan by the famous automaker Toyota. This happened in 1990, which is already quite distant for us.

Only 12 years later, in 2002, domestic engineers from Novosibirsk University began developing a Russian electric amplifier. After the completion of the project, the unit was refined and tested for several years at the AvtoVAZ plant.

New device

The engineers' task was to create a worthy analogue to foreign amplifiers, to provide the unit with the necessary advantages, durability and reliability. At the same time, unlike imported analogues, our electric amplifiers were much cheaper.

Today, these devices are produced by the Berdsk Electromechanical Plant, located in Russia and a subsidiary of AvtoVAZ.

Main advantages of the first ES

The electric amplifier would not be so in demand and popular without the obvious advantages that it brought along with its appearance. The strengths of this steering system include:

The unit operates even when the power unit is turned off;
The unit allows partial fuel savings, which has a positive effect on fuel consumption;
Handling is improved in all components;
Reliability of maneuvers at the highest level;
Excellent safety record with regular use.

Differences from power steering

You need to understand that power steering is a power steering and these two devices are constantly compared, figuring out which one is better. In general terms, we can say that these two components may have common characteristics, but the electric amplifier contains an electronic unit.

It is this difference that makes it more functional, and its performance is characterized by the following indicators:

The sensors of the electronic unit constantly monitor the speed of movement, they read its trajectory and monitor the serviceability of the working components;
After the data is collected, it is transferred to a special electronic control unit where it is processed;
The artificial intelligence of the control system changes the parameters of the master cylinder automatically;
The oil pressure level is adjusted only by the position of the valve; it can be either open or closed;
The higher the speed the car begins to pick up, the more intensively and actively the valve opens;
In the process of increasing speed, the severity of steering wheel control also increases in parallel, and this in turn increases the degree of safety and stability when driving the VAZ 2110;
In addition, the operation of the electric booster is not affected by the presence of fuel, it does not affect its consumption.

If the effectiveness of the braking system decreases sharply, then there is a high probability that the problem is related to the master cylinder. This article will help you replace it:

Principle of operation

The work of EMURU, that is, the electromechanical power steering, is aimed at reducing the driver’s control efforts. The device is also designed to actively return the steered wheels and steering wheel to their original position after a maneuver. Fewer turns of the steering wheel will return the wheels to their original position.

Thanks to the device, the car returns to straight-line motion faster, which ensures driving safety.

The unit itself is a modular design that is built into the steering column.

The module consists of two main components:

The power unit is a synchronous electric device;
Control type controller.

The installation of an electric booster is especially important if the owner of a VAZ 2110 installs wider tires on large-diameter wheels compared to standard factory ones. Such a problem as an “unruly” steering wheel is eliminated in the case of electric power assistance; the steering wheel obeys the driver even with a light touch.

General diagram of electric power steering

If previously the driver had to constantly hold the steering wheel with both hands and put a lot of effort into turning it, now everything can be done with one finger.

Thanks to these indicators, the VAZ 2110 is considered one of the safest cars on domestic roads.

One of the main components of the brake system is the caliper. Details of self-repair of this part are outlined here:

Specifications

Like any other module in a car, the electric amplifier has its own indicators that must be taken into account. To make it clear what this unit is, its technical characteristics should be given:

The maximum torque compensation is 35 Nm;
Current consumption at average Mmax = 35 Nm and steering wheel rotation speed of 360 degrees per second is 50A;
Operating temperatures range from - 40 to + 85 degrees Celsius;
The total mass of the unit is 9.5 kilograms;
Electronically controlled motor - reluctance induction;
The rotation is reversed;
The presence of three phases;
A worm gearbox with three starts is installed;
The worm shaft is made of 40x steel;
The worm wheel is made of carbon fiber UPA 6/30-2.

Steering column with electric power steering

These are all the characteristics of a component that you need to know in order to interact with it. These indicators are especially relevant because the amplifier is an electrical unit and you need to be careful with it.

Component Benefits

The electric steering wheel has a number of advantages, which led to the fact that it is installed not only on the VAZ 2110, but also on other models of this plant. In addition to technical characteristics, it has other equally important indicators:

Simplicity of installation work when installing the unit;
The unit consumes a relatively small amount of electricity;
The unit does not affect the environmental performance of the car;
Possible installation of the unit on other VAZ models;
Parametric indicators, that is, an effective reduction in torque according to an increase in vehicle speed;
During operation, no additional care or use of various special materials is required;
At low temperatures, this option for strengthening the steering wheel performs better.

The only drawback of this device is the fact that it works a little weaker than the same hydraulic booster.

New electric power steering VAZ 2110 with components

But in the case of domestic roads, this gain is quite enough to feel comfortable behind the wheel.

Electric power steering VAZ 2107 - is it needed?

Whether to equip your “Seven” with electric power steering (EPS) or not depends only on your personal wishes and capabilities. To decide and understand whether there is really a need to install this mechanism, you need to consider the positive and negative aspects of this type of modification, and then draw the appropriate conclusions.

The main advantages of introducing electric power steering include:

reliability, efficiency, compactness, which is ensured due to the lack of hydraulics;
easier, more convenient and safer driving, especially for women and the elderly;
easy installation;
Possibility of installation on any classic Zhiguli model;
no additional maintenance is required during operation.

Electric power steering provides more comfortable and easier driving

The installation of an electric power steering system can be classified as tuning, i.e. improving the initial characteristics of the car.

The disadvantages include:

material costs;
expensive repairs;
the need to install a more powerful generator on the car (from 100 A).

A powerful generator is required due to the fact that the EUR engine alone consumes about 50 A. Therefore, if you have extra funds and a desire to improve car control, then why not do it. In addition, installing an electromechanical power steering is noticeably cheaper than a hydraulic booster.

The introduction of a hydraulic booster on a VAZ 2107 is a complex and expensive procedure that requires the use of additional components and major modifications to the steering.

Preparing for installation

The fact is that not all VAZ 2110 cars are equipped with this pleasant component, so drivers often have to install the amplifier themselves. This work is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, and if you follow some rules, you can carry it out quite effectively.

In addition, you can even purchase a new electric amplifier via the Internet and, after fiddling around a little in the garage, install it on your “top ten”. Since the cost of the unit is not so small, saving on installation will be pleasant and practical.

In order to install an electric booster on a VAZ car, you must first prepare some tools and spare parts:

Electric power steering;

Electric amplifier VAZ 2110 Electric amplifier VAZ 2110 Electric amplifier control unit VAZ 2110

Marking of the electric booster VAZ 2110 Electric power booster pads

Plate;

DIY plate

Set of wires;

Wiring

Promval;

Promval Promval Promval

Steering wheel and casing;

Steering wheel from Kalina Reverse part of the steering wheel from Kalina

The reverse part of the steering wheel from Kalina The reverse part of the steering wheel from Kalina

Screwdrivers of different configurations;
Ruler;
Drill.

Installation

No oils or other substances are required, since the work is done with electricity and not with mechanical components. After all components are prepared, you should proceed to direct installation, which will take place in the following sequence:

It is necessary to remove the standard terminal from the block and move it to the block located on the harness;

Pads

After this, the free terminal extending from the harness moves to the place where the standard wire was located, adjacent to the block. This will make it possible to pass a standard type wire between the harnesses. The wire coming from the blocks has a rating of 50 A;

50A fuse

Pads in the harness Pads in the harness EUR connectors

Harness pads in the electrical amplifier connector

Now you need to slowly separate the steering shaft housing, then remove the ignition switch and separate the switches. This must be done slowly to prevent cracking of the casing;

Removing the casing, switches, ignition switch Removing the casing, switches, ignition switch Removing the casing, switches, ignition switch

Carefully unscrew the bolt that holds the steering rack and then remove the rack itself;

Unscrew the bolt on the rail

It is necessary to measure the length of the shafts and if you need to adjust the plate, for this you need to use a ruler and perhaps even write down the indicators;

Comparing shaft lengths Stock shaft

The electric amplifier is installed in the free space; to do this, you need to select the required shaft size, since it does not fit on the rail. To adjust the shaft to the required size, the plate and shaft are ground to fit the Priora shafts. It is the parts from the VAZ Priora that are best suited for this;

Val priors

Ground and adjusted Priora shaft

After the shaft is adjusted, it is necessary to drill the plate deeper than it already is. This is not difficult to do, since the shaft is a hollow structure;

Re-drilled homemade plate

The plate is installed on the amplifier and thereby the resulting depth is checked. If everything is fine, then you need to firmly clamp the entire structure using a smaller bolt;

Adjusting the plate

Now you should install the switches in their places and proceed to the wiring. To do this, you need to lead two wires directly to the battery from the passenger compartment, through the left fender;

Installing the central part of the steering column switches

Next, you need to remove the washer reservoir and take the wire. With its help you need to attach the two wires that were brought out. They need to be attached to the end of the opposite wire and pulled through both;

The washer reservoir is removed, the wire is inserted into the wires

Wire coming out of the wing

Connect to the other end of the wire

Pull out the wires

It is necessary to remove the dashboard and take out the red block from there, slowly tighten the wiring into the space under the panel. Then remove the orange wire from the red box;

Remove the instrument panel Pull out the red block

We drag the wiring into the under-panel space. We pull out the orange wire from the red block.

You need to attach a red box to this wire and combine it with the electrical amplifier wiring. In this case, the end with the exposed terminal of the amplifier wiring is placed on the free standard wire in the red block;

We hook the block that came with the wires to the orange wire

Block on the orange wire Connect the orange wire to the EUR wiring, put the “bare” end of the wire in place of the standard one in the red block

You also need to do the same with the gray wire, which also comes out of the red block. It must also be pulled into the place of its regular counterpart and secured with a terminal;
After which you need to move to the battery and securely fasten the black wire, that is, MINUS, to the pink wire, that is, PLUS;
After this, you need to connect all the electric power steering wiring and start it or just turn it by hand.

The installation of the electric amplifier is complete, all that remains is to carefully install all the components in their places.

To do this, you need to put back all the switches and fit in place the casing and steering wheel, which will cover the steering shaft.

This material will help make dismantling the steering rack easier:

How to install the EUR on a VAZ 2110: step-by-step photo repair

So, when everything is ready, you can start installation.

1) Take the purchased wires and remove the standard terminal from the block, then install it into the block on the harness.

2) The terminal that comes off the harness is installed where the wire was adjacent to the block (standard). All these manipulations are needed so that the standard wire can be passed between the harnesses. By the way, the wire from the blocks is 50A, and the fuse must correspond to this power (you can take it from a Chevrolet Niva).

3) Next, arm yourself with tools and start removing the steering column cover, ignition switch and steering column switches. Proceed with care; the casing is fragile and may crack.

5) Compare the length of the old and new intermediate shafts. Depending on the results obtained, it will be necessary to adjust the plate and shaft. This is where a ruler comes in handy. It is better to write down the dimensions.

6) The shaft is adjusted by turning it; this must be done on a special machine, so you will have to contact specialists.

7) The plate is adjusted by re-drilling some holes to a greater depth. This is not difficult to do, fortunately the shaft is hollow inside. You will also probably need to trim the corners of the plate with a grinder and put spacers between it and the body.

Try installing the EUR assembly with the plate and steering rack. It is likely that the standard rack bolt will not fit and will have to be replaced with a smaller one. This will entail the need to install a homemade limiter to keep the shaft stationary.

9) Install the switches (or rather, their central part).

11) Remove the dashboard and locate the red pad. Then drag the wiring from the EUR into the space under the panel.

13) The same manipulation must be carried out with the gray wire (it is also from the red block).

14) The wires pulled out under the hood must be connected like this: black to “–”, and pink to “+”. That's all, all that remains is to put back the casing and steering wheel.

Adjustment after installation

After reassembly, it may turn out that some defects remain. Perhaps they will be completely indifferent to you, but if you decide to do everything perfectly, the following additional work may be required:

Align the steering wheel if it is crooked after installation;
Remove all excessively large gaps between the steering column casing and the front panel;
Install the EUR diagnostic sensor;
Replace the cracked steering column casing with a new one if necessary.

In addition, it is important that you will have to slightly adjust your driving style - at first it may seem that the steering wheel turns very easily. It’s also not worth “putting” the car into a turn, since the force on the steering wheel with an electric steering system is weaker than with power steering, or even more so without it.

Is the electric power steering repairable and what is the price?

If suddenly the electric power steering fails for some reason, it is useless to contact the service center, since this part is non-repairable and therefore can only be replaced as an assembly. So, self-repair of the EUR is carried out strictly at your own peril and risk, because any unqualified intervention in its design can easily lead to an accident with a probability of death.

Now let's talk about the price of the issue. Installing an EUR, let's face it, will cost a considerable amount. Judge for yourself:

A new EUR, depending on the region of delivery, will cost about 13,000 - 18,000 rubles. It can be ordered either through online stores, with subsequent delivery by mail to any city, or directly from the factory;
You can save money by purchasing a used part, costing around 2000 - 6000 rubles. Look for advertisements on the Internet, newspapers, etc., but remember that you are buying a pig in a poke.

If we talk about other parts, without which it is impossible to install, they are also not cheap:

Intermediate steering shaft, adapted for installation of electric power steering - from 2000 rubles. and more;
Bracket for installation - approximately 1,000 rubles;
Wiring for the electric amplifier - approximately 1,500 rubles;
If the car has a carburetor, then you will also need a speed sensor simulator - this will cost around 1,500 rubles.

Conclusions and recommendations

What conclusion can be drawn from all of the above? On the one hand, installing an electric power steering system on a VAZ-2110 has many positive aspects, the main one of which is much more comfortable handling, which is especially noticeable if your car did not have any power steering at all. You will be less tired while driving, and when you hit a large hole, the steering wheel will not tear out of your hands as if it were alive, which increases traffic safety. In addition, you will not need to regularly monitor the fluid level and worry about leaks, as is the case with power steering.

On the other hand, an electric amplifier is a very expensive pleasure, especially in current times of crisis. Yes, and installing it is quite difficult, not counting the fact that it takes a lot of time.

In addition, the power steering is completely irreparable, and if it breaks, then the car is laid up, while with a leaking power steering you can drive for a while until a new one is purchased. Whether it’s worth putting an EUR in your top ten is up to you to decide. That's all for today. See you again!

Many have probably heard that in the VAZ 2110 you can install electric power steering from Priora . Is it difficult to install the EUR from Priora on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands ? What is the price of the EUR from Priora and where can I order ? I tried to answer all these questions in this article.

There are two types of mechanisms that make steering easier: power steering (hydraulic power steering) and electric power steering (electric power steering).

In general terms, power steering is : a pump driven by the crankshaft pumps oil or a similar fluid, and through a rather complex set of small parts in and outside the rack and fluid pressure helps to rotate the steering wheel.
The EUR is simpler : an electric motor, a torsion bar, a pair of sensors and an ECU. Principle: the torsion bar is twisted, the torque is read by the sensor, and the electric motor applies a little Newton meters of force to the output shaft.

Pros of EUR:

During operation, the power steering does not require intervention/maintenance, unlike the power steering (it is at least worth keeping an eye on the oil and tubular connections).
The electric motor of the EUR works only when it is necessary to turn the steering wheel (when the torsion bar begins to twist), in a stationary position it practically does not work, nor does it work after reaching a certain speed prescribed in the ECU. Power steering, unlike its brother, works constantly, its motor constantly spins at the knee and threshes fluid, even if the car is standing without a driver.
In cold weather, the EUR performed better. It doesn't need to warm up like the power steering.

Disadvantages of EUR:

The EUR is weaker. Although on light cars, like our dozens, this is practically not noticeable.

EUR - 9715 rub. (21700-3450008-01)
Promval - 1000 rub. (21100-3401092-10)
Plate - 800 rubles and above
Wiring - 1500 rub.
Steering wheel and casing VAZ 2170 - 2000 rub. (11180-3402015-00, 21700-3403065/3116-00)

The total price of a new set will cost you approximately 15,000 rubles.

Where to buy a set of EUR Priora for VAZ 2110? You can order in Kaluga from the factory directly. In the online store “Everything for Auto”

———————————————————————————————————— At disassembly I purchased a Viburnum steering wheel with a small bonus

I bought an EUR, here it is in a box, a control unit, markings of the EUR itself. The pads are the same as on the 10th EUR. Papers included with the EUR.

Then I bought an exhaust shaft from a Priora with a tricky mechanism. I measured the length of the exhaust shafts. The difference was 4 cm with an error on the larger side. The length was 25.5 cm in the most expanded form. So, taking into account the experience of the installers, that the drain shaft must be shortened by 3 cm, nothing needs to be lengthened, it seems

Then the ordered wiring arrived

This is what the blocks look like, that is, there will be no need for any twists, I removed the terminal from the block, inserted it onto the block in the harness and inserted the free terminal of the harness into the place where I removed the standard wire, it is already set to 50A

EUR connectors and harness blocks in them

As for the wiring too - you can do without a special harness - all you need to do is run two power wires from the battery with a cross-section of 4 squares, a 50 A fuse from Shnivy, the rest is all low current - to the tachometer, to the speed sensor, + 12V after the 3Z, ground, to -line and wire to the control lamp.

But since there was not enough adapter plate and it was unknown when it would arrive, I decided to cut it out myself. We take the workpiece, mark it and cut it out with a jigsaw. Thickness approximately 4mm.

We remove the casing, switches, ignition switch.

Next, unscrew the bolt on the rack, remove the steering rack, and see how much less stock has been adjusted

We adjust the plate in place

We put the shaft on the EUR, we put the EUR in place and we see that the shaft is too small. It fits literally 1 mm onto the rail, I had to take it off and think about it. It was not possible to distort the drain shaft, since it was hollow and had to be chemically mixed with the plate and priorol. Prioral has undergone changes in this part

Well, I had to re-drill the plate in order to drive the EUR deeper, this did not give much benefit, I installed spacers between the plate and the body. So the EUR is installed, the shaft has more or less climbed onto the rail, but not completely, the bolt cannot be inserted. I had to take a smaller bolt and clamp it to death and sculpt a limiter onto the shaft so that the cardan could not slide back in any way.

Next we hook the central part of the switches

The next step is wiring. You need to stretch two wires to the battery from the passenger compartment; you need to pull them through the left fender; to do this, open the fuse box and look for the bundle of wires going under the hood. We remove the washer reservoir, take the wire and stick it into the wires. From here it comes out.

We attach the wires to the other end and pull them into the engine compartment

We remove the instrument panel, pull out the red block, drag the wiring into the under-panel space and remove the orange wire from the red block.

We attach the block that came with the wires to it. We connect it to the EUR wiring, with the orange wire (this is the 1st leg in the EUR block, +12V power supply) And we poke the end with the bare terminal of the EUR wiring into the place of the standard one in the red block.

We do the same with the gray wire of the red block. The gray end (this is the 3rd leg of the EUR control block, the signal from the speed sensor) and with the brown-red white block (this is the 2nd leg of the EUR signal block, the low-voltage signal from the tachometer)

Well, everything seems to be ready, attempt No. 1

Start. We turn the steering wheel and see - never mind. I swear at the manufacturer and myself for a long time, then we calm down and remember that the power ends are not connected. We go to the battery and connect the pink one to PLUS and the black one to MINUS.

Attempt number 2 - my pants are full of joy. Spins with one finger.

The position of the steering wheel is comfortable for me. You have to get used to the EUR, don’t lean into corners out of old habit, but you get used to the good stuff quickly.

Well, finally a good plate has arrived. I welded the washout to the required length using the stock shaft as a donor and bought a casing. Here's what happened: The length of the shaft is 27.8 cm

The junction of two shafts (prioro inserted into the drain and welded)

It was necessary to make some modifications in order to maintain the height adjustment, we had to grind down the edges

I placed spacers between the plate and the body, resulting in a distance from the steering wheel to the floor 51 cm to the seat 21 cm

Having completed it, we put it in place and close it with covers. After installation it turned out like this: In the upper position

Down position

Then I tied the wires, don’t pay attention.

There is a gap, we need to think about something.

This is what remains from the old management

The casing is defective; there was a tape recorder control. A steering wheel with a dozen of a new sample and a casing for it, a stock shaft for the 10th rack, a guarantor.

Review of Skoda Kodiak 2017. Price in Russia. Photo, video

The presence of an electric booster on a VAZ 2110 car allows you to improve the quality of response to changes in the angle of rotation of the steering wheel, improve maneuverability and controllability. The practice of drivers proves that with an electric booster they feel more confident.

An important advantage is that with electric assistance you have to apply less force to enter a turn and make a maneuver. This has a positive effect on a person’s condition during long trips.

Fit

If the installation work of the electric amplifier is carried out by an experienced technician, who may go somewhat beyond the scope of the proposed instructions, then it should be said about how the electric amplifier is adjusted to the VAZ 2110.

After the main actions from the above list have been carried out, the following adjustment can be made:

Align the steering wheel;
Eliminate all cracks and gaps between parts;
Install the LED diagnostic sensor for the electric amplifier;
Slightly shorten the power cable;
If necessary, replace damaged parts and damaged parts of the casing.

After this, you should once again carefully inspect the steering system while sitting in the cabin. Eliminate the last defects and rub the panel and steering wheel with polish. Only after this can you begin further operation of the machine. It is the maintenance of cleanliness and order in the car interior that leads to the driver’s concentration behind the wheel.

Price issue

Wanting to install an EU on a VAZ 2110, many car owners are interested in how much the installation will cost them.

We cannot say the exact prices of such services at car services, since each service station has its own pricing policy. If you plan to do the installation yourself, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the approximate price list for everything that you will need during the work process.

There is always a desire to modernize your favorite car, so installing EPS (electric power steering) on a VAZ 2110 will be a good tuning of your car.

Repair

The manufacturer AvtoVAZ does not provide for repair of the electric power steering, only complete replacement of the assembly. Therefore, all repairs are carried out by the owner of the car at his own peril and risk.

You must always remember that repairing the electric power steering of a VAZ 2110 yourself can lead to an accident!

The price for the VAZ 2110 electric power steering and components is as follows:

a new electric amplifier costs on average from 13,000 to 18,000 rubles; you can order it in online stores with delivery by mail to any region of Russia, or directly from the factory;
a used electric amplifier costs from 2,000 to 6,000 rubles, depending on the condition, it’s worth looking on local bulletin boards, avito.ru, etc.

Installation components can also be sold separately:

steering shaft for installing electric power steering - price about 1,000 rubles;
bracket for installing electric power steering - price about 1,000 rubles;
wiring harness for connecting the EUR - cost about 1,500 rubles;
imitation of an electronic speed sensor (for carburetor engines) - approximately 1,500 rubles.

Which EUR to install on a VAZ 2107

The VAZ Seven can be equipped with one of two options for electric power steering:

from Niva;
special kit.

In the first case, purchasing the mechanism will cost 20 thousand rubles. In the second, the device is suitable for installation on any classic Zhiguli and costs about the same money. The VAZ 2107 can be equipped with both mechanisms. However, there are complaints about electric boosters from Niva: some car owners complain about their unexpected failure, which is dangerous while driving, since control becomes impossible. As for, there are no complaints about them.

On the VAZ 2107 you can install an electric booster from the Niva or purchase a kit for the “classics”