Repairing electric power steering on Kalina - do it yourself for knocking and other problems renoshka.ru

A fairly well-known “childhood disease” Kalin with the Makhachkala EUR is a clanking noise in the steering wheel area and the sound resembles the rolling of balls in a plastic box. In principle, there is nothing terrible about it in terms of malfunction, but only an unpleasant knocking sound, as if the steering rack is rattling. Many are afraid to get into the EUR and so put up with it, I also had such a phobia and finally, after reading the forums, I decided to defeat the bullshit in the EUR. After reading Nikolai-Kalinovod’s post, I decided to adjust the special nut, which allows the play between the worm and the gear to be adjusted and causes the knocking noise to occur.

To remove the EUR, you must first remove the negative terminal from the battery - this is so that when disassembling you do not short out anything, since there will be a lot of ends hanging from the connectors. The process of removing the EUR has been described many times, so I’ll briefly say what you need to do: - first set the wheels of the car straight, - unscrew the two plastic halves around the steering wheel and the partition under the steering wheel, - use a 13 key, unscrew and pull out the cardan shaft bolt - remove the pads from the steering column switches , and also from the EUR - using a 13 socket wrench, loosen the two lower nuts securing the steering column - using a 13 socket wrench, unscrew the two upper nuts securing the steering column, while supporting the column so that it does not fall and carefully remove it to the floor

When you hear a knock in the steering column, you need to immediately identify why it appeared and immediately begin to correct the situation. The reliability of the steering is the main factor of safety on the road. It is important to monitor the condition of this mechanism by the driver and service departments. The first signs of problems include sounds made by the steering column.

Repair of electric power steering on Kalina. Signs of breakdown and repair

Electric power steering is a problem area for the Lada Kalina.
Surely this is due to the fact that the domestic auto industry has only recently become acquainted with the ESD. Avtovaz has not yet learned how to make good steering systems. Therefore, repairing electric power steering on Kalina remains a common practice. But it is best done by specialists. Amateurism will be inappropriate here - it can only aggravate the situation. The steering system is an important component, the serviceability of which determines the efficiency of driving and, of course, safety.

Repairing the electric power steering on Kalina is a responsible job that requires certain knowledge in the field of power steering. And since a minimum number of car enthusiasts have such knowledge, mostly when problems arise, drivers go to a service station, which is fundamentally correct.

The procedure for tightening the rack on Kalina

Now we need to crawl our hand under the steering rack in the place where it is marked with a yellow circle in the photo, only under the bottom, on the inside

and feel for the rubber cap there, which needs to be removed so that the key fits better:

As you can see in the photo above, I was unable to remove it successfully; it burst in half when removed, as it was sitting quite tightly. Try not to repeat this. Next, we take the special key that I mentioned above:

And we try to crawl our hand under Kalina’s rail to insert it into the desired hole - it is shown below, I photographed it from below to make it more clear what it all looks like:

How to determine the malfunction?

Despite the fact that repairing the EUR requires contacting a car service, you can detect the first symptoms of a malfunction yourself

Viburnums on the front panel have a special yellow indicator, which, in the event of a breakdown of the electric amplifier, lights up and reports an error in the system. If it lights up, it means you have another reason to visit the nearest auto repair shop. But it’s immediately worth noting that the yellow indicator does not indicate a critical malfunction, but only signals the occurrence of a problem that allows you to drive the car, but without the participation of the ESD.

If the electric power steering has completely failed, it is better to stop immediately and pull out its fuses.

. In Kalina they are located on the left side of the steering wheel. Theoretically, in case of malfunctions, the EUR should turn off on its own. However, it doesn’t happen once at a time. Therefore, to be sure, it is still worth taking care of the fuses.

Possible malfunctions and their causes

The main problem that causes damage to the electric power steering is a malfunction of the speed sensor.

The EUR installed on Kalina does not work with a constant force applied to the steering rack. The amplifier begins to operate at full strength only when the car is moving at low speed or is at rest. When accelerating, the power steering forces on the steering rack decrease. That is, the lower the speed, the more the power steering starts to work.

The naturally described malfunction can only be detected when the car is standing still or moving at low speed

This failure can only be corrected by completely replacing the speed sensor. Moreover, here it is not necessary to go to the service. You can replace everything yourself.

The second malfunction may be hidden in the EUR itself. Basically, it consists of self-disabling the electric power steering due to the fact that it has not passed self-test. That is, the device turns off automatically so as not to interfere with the driver when driving the car.

This kind of malfunction guarantees a trip to the service station and will require you to spend a lot of money.

How to get to the steering rack adjustment mechanism

In order to be able to do everything without a pit or lift, it is necessary to perform preliminary steps in order to get to the adjusting nut.

First of all, disconnect the battery, remove both terminals:

Then unscrew the battery mount by unscrewing the two nuts at the edges:

Now you can remove it and put it away so it doesn’t get in the way. As you can see, a little space has been freed up, but that's not all:

Now we lift the plastic stand, under which there are 4 more bolts:

Which also need to be unscrewed:

And after that you need to move this metal pad a little forward so that it is detached from the air filter housing mounting pad.

And now you can simply move it back a little to get even more space and access to the steering rack. It will roughly look like this, as I have presented in the photo below:

Additional reasons

Troubles in the operation of the electric power steering can be caused by:

voltage drop due to possible circuit breaks due to wiring faults;
exceeding the internal combustion engine speed;
lack of speed sensor information.

In general, it is clear that there are not so many reasons why the ESD fails. Some of them are critical, some are not. But in any case, you need to take care of promptly eliminating the problem.

Today it is difficult to find reliable electrical circuits for an amplifier from a domestic car. Such information is mainly available only in services, and no one will share it with you. Therefore, repair of the electric power steering on Kalina is possible only within the walls of the service station

, since amateurism can be expensive. Here it is better not to take risks, not to be stingy, but to trust competent specialists.

About qualified electric amplifier replacement

If there is a need to replace the mechanism when the ESD does not work, we recommend contacting experienced technicians. When the car is under warranty, the most rational measure would be to contact the dealer network to resolve the problem.

There are situations that do not allow you to resort to these two methods of eliminating an amplifier malfunction. Then the only solution will be to manually replace the mechanism that has become unusable.

Let us immediately make a reservation that the replacement process if the EUR does not work is characterized by sufficient complexity. To carry it out successfully, you will need experience and the possession of special tools. Unqualified replacement actions can aggravate the scale of the breakdown, which will entail a significant waste of money on more expensive repairs in service conditions.

Before the actual replacement procedure, we recommend that you carefully study the entire list of features and actions if the ESD does not work. Here you will need to delve into the connection diagram of the unit, which will avoid damage to the electrical components of the mechanism.

To remove the amplifier, partial disassembly of the front panel of the Lada Kalina is necessary. After this, the device itself must be disconnected from the entire list of supply wires. Sometimes owners repair the electric power steering, avoiding the need to replace it with a new unit. As a rule, after a complex of restoration work, standard devices work no worse than their new counterparts.

A common malfunction is the occurrence of a knock that clearly comes to the driver from under the panel or the amplifier turns off. This phenomenon may be accompanied by a characteristic squeak that occurs during rotational actions with the LADA Kalina steering wheel. This situation is usually solved by using a special lubricant. If such an action does not bring the expected result, then a more detailed diagnosis of the amplification mechanism will be required.

To install the electric power steering in the seat of the Lada Kalina, you will need to be attentive and patient. All cable connectors must be tightly seated, and the device itself must be firmly secured. Only after this can you proceed to the reassembly of the previously dismantled front panel components.

How to eliminate knocking noise in the electric power steering of Lada Kalina, Granta

Many owners of Lada Kalina and Lada Granta are familiar with the problem of extraneous noise when turning the steering wheel (during short swings) or when driving on an uneven road. If the car is equipped with a geared electric power steering (EPS) manufactured in Makhachkala (catalog number 11186-3450008-00), then this may be the reason. This EUR is not installed on the Lada Priora. It is noteworthy that knocking is not observed in EUR (gearless) manufactured in Kaluga or MONDO. We'll tell you how to fix this problem.

The main reason for the appearance of knocking in the electric power steering is the presence of play , which appears during the operation of the car. If the knocking sounds resemble drumming, then most likely the bearings are not tightened properly. Most often, the smallest of the three electric drive rotor bearings, which is located on top of the conical part of the power steering housing, rattles. You just need to tighten the adjusting nut (do not overdo it, otherwise the bearing will break).

Some versions of the electric power steering do not have an adjusting nut, and if you disassemble the amplifier, you will notice adjusting washers between the bearing and the gear. In this case, the backlash can be reduced by installing additional washers , selecting them experimentally. It is worth considering that the thicker the gasket, the tighter the steering wheel will rotate, and too small the thickness of the washers will cause the EUR to knock.

With this modification of the electric power steering, you will have to remove and disassemble it. The most difficult thing will be to divide the electric amplifier into two halves. When reassembling, do not forget to apply lubricant . During assembly, do not strip the threads, they are weak.

If a metallic knock appears when you turn the steering wheel all the way in both directions, then most likely you are simply bumping into the end of the steering rack. In this case there is no cause for concern.

In some cases, it is impossible to do without repairing the electric power steering and replacing worn parts with new ones. The radical way to get rid of the knocking is to remove the EUR altogether, or replace it with a gearless one.

Repairing electric power steering on Kalina - do it yourself in case of knocking and other problems

Moderators are asked to move this to the steering wheel FAQ or to the section header.

This concerns the EUR produced by the Makhachkala Aviaagregat plant. Kalina 2006

So I defeated the strumming and knocking in the EUR itself. I took it off three times, the first time in the summer I tightened a special nut with two holes, it didn’t last long, the crack remained. I filmed it for the second time this month and decided to take apart the EUR more. I separated the halves and saw the whole mechanism with my own eyes. When disassembled, there is no knocking, but as soon as I connect the halves, the knocking appears again. As a result, I stuffed more grease into the worm crankcase and put everything back together. It’s winter now, and in the morning, while the car was cold, the EUR didn’t make any sounds, but as soon as the interior was warmed up, the drumbeat started again. the lubricant simply became softer and play appeared. In general, this extraneous sound bothered me for no less than four years, I endured it. I was afraid to get into the EUR. But the time came to deal with the problem, and I removed it for the third time.

Next, I will describe the repair and modification process.

We will remove the steering column.

Disconnect the “-” terminal of the battery. The wheels are straight. Inside, remove the plastic around the steering column. We disconnect the electrical connectors of the ignition switch, immobilizer, disconnect two connectors from the EUR itself (the large one and the smaller one next to it on the left), you also need to disconnect the connectors of the steering column switches for the wipers and turn signals and remove them themselves, everything is simple there, disconnect the horn connector. Maybe I missed something, but in the end all the connectors from the steering column need to be disconnected. Next, at the bottom, using a 13mm head, unscrew the nut on the driveshaft in the middle, where there are no splines, but just a flat part that connects to the steering shaft driveshaft, and disconnect the driveshaft. Now unscrew the four 13mm nuts that secure the steering wheel. column to the body. Do not unscrew the last one completely, this whole structure weighs 10-12 kg, so carefully, holding it with your hands from below, unscrew the last nut and lower everything to the floor. Now you can take the steering column out of the car and disassemble it.

We put it all on the floor on the steering wheel. First, disconnect the bracket (4 x 13 bolts). Next, mark the position of the cardan and shaft with a marker, unscrew the nut to 13 and remove the cardan. Now, using a high 27 socket, unscrew the large nut on the shaft. All that remains is to unscrew the three 13mm bolts that connect the two halves of the EUR. The halves will begin to move around each other a little. Now you need to be careful

To separate them, to do this, use a flat and powerful screwdriver to pry up the upper half in several places, just do not put pressure on the ears of the fastenings (where there were three bolts) - the alloy is powder, you can break off the ears. We wiggle it a little and the upper half should slide up and come off. If everything went well, then we should find a thin washer on the shaft near the plastic gear (sometimes it sticks to the bearing in the upper half). As I found out experimentally, this adjusting washer is responsible for the clearance at the point of engagement of the plastic gear and the EUR worm. Over time, the gear wears out, wears out, the gap changes, backlash appears, hence the knocking and clanking noises. I found a tin can at home, cut out a similar washer and placed it under the factory one.

The thickness of the new washer is approximately 0.3 mm. Those. In the end we got two washers: mine and the factory one. I assembled the halves, secured them with one bolt, and began to twist and listen. and the knocking stopped. I was shocked and very happy. So, after all, there was wear and the sound was due to it. In general, I put everything back together, put it on the car and went to check it out. I drove onto a section of road with bad asphalt (like a ridge) and here it was SILENCE. very, very quiet. I just didn't recognize the car. But I suffered for 4 years, thinking and wondering how to overcome this nasty knocking and strumming. Yes, and the steering wheel has become heavier, more pleasant on the highway, it seems like the feedback has increased. I am very pleased with the work, I recommend it to everyone.

Causes of failure of the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina

For the first time, the Russian auto industry installed electric power steering on Kalina. At the first stages, it worked extremely unstably, up to a complete shutdown. Later, they tried to eliminate the shortcomings, but the EUR remained a weak link and periodically fails, as evidenced by the exclamation mark on the panel. This is evidenced by the feeling of a heavy steering wheel, and turning with one hand becomes difficult.

The principle of operation of the electric booster is to reduce the force that needs to be applied when turning the steering wheel. The Kalina electric power steering control unit uses sensors to calculate the operation of the electric motor at the current speed and torque. Thereby giving a signal of the effort with which the driver needs to be helped when turning. After all, it does not work constantly and needs adjustment, which is carried out by the block.

Reasons for shutdown

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system performs a self-diagnosis and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on indicating a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The light turns red, the problem needs to be fixed urgently. If the color is yellow, the vehicle can be operated, but safety precautions should be taken. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

speed sensor malfunction;
torque sensor malfunction;
speed exceeds 60 km/h;
engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
failure in the control unit;
poorly soldered contacts;
insufficient tension.

What does Kalina's power steering consist of?

This unit is an independent device included in the steering mechanism of the Lada Kalina. It allows the driver to turn the steering wheel without much effort, and also ensures softness and smooth operation of the moving parts of the steering system.

Structurally, this mechanism cannot be classified as complex units. The electric power steering has the following parts:

electric motor;
gear unit;
control module;
sensors that monitor the torque, speed and number of revolutions made by the crankshaft.

The Lada Kalina on-board controller continuously monitors the functioning of this amplifier and controls its operation, but malfunctions do occur and many car owners are very interested in how to eliminate them. The mechanism is activated at engine speeds of 400 rpm. When the speed exceeds 60 km per hour, the electric booster stops functioning. This is done for the sake of safety, because at high speeds the driver must have confident feedback on the steering wheel, which a “light” steering wheel is not able to provide. With increasing speed, a gradual decrease in the magnitude of the force in the mechanism is observed.

Fuse box

The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box; if something doesn’t work, it’s worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard, to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the top part towards you and the latch will open.

Check if the fuse is working, if it fails, replace it. It is very easy to check, check the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing a 50 amp relay to a 30 amp one will also help.

Newer versions of Kalina are equipped with electric amplifiers from Hyundai, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are still thousands of cars with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina yourself. The main thing to remember is that not every amplifier shutdown is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you will have to go to a service center.

What malfunctions threaten the EUR on Kalina and what are the ways to eliminate them?

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Causes of EUR failure

Why does the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina not work, turns off and refuses to work, what are the signs of a steering wheel with power steering knocking, jamming, biting or squeaking? To repair the system yourself, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what causes precede the breakdown. Most often, the failure of the amplifier is caused by a breakdown of the unit itself and the amplifier fails. Problems of this type are resolved by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact problem.

As practice shows, often the inoperability of the electric amplifier (failure) is associated with a breakdown of the speed controller.

the steering wheel is jammed,
jams
becomes tight
and others

Because the speed controller sensor ensures activation and deactivation of the electric power steering under different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed begins to increase, the booster automatically turns off, allowing for safer machine control when driving at high speeds.

So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:

The speed controller has failed or the control unit does not receive or disappears a signal from it. In this case, the reason may lie in either a breakdown of the sensor, damaged wiring, or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
The voltage in the vehicle's electrical network has decreased. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and an inoperative generator to the use of inappropriate electrical equipment in the car.
The permissible crankshaft speed has been exceeded.
Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the cause, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics need to be done.

Characteristics of the steering mechanism of different modifications of Kalina

The steering mechanism (RM) is one of the most important elements of a car and is designed to change the trajectory of its movement. Control is carried out by turning the steering wheel, and the greater the angle of rotation, the more the car turns. Among the variety of PMs, rack and pinion mechanisms are most widespread due to their simplicity of design, low weight and size, high reliability and low cost.

All models and modifications of the Lada Kalina car have a standard safety rack and pinion mechanism, which is equipped with an electric amplifier.

The steering column can change its angle depending on the driver's height, ensuring comfortable driving. Currently, there are three manufacturers supplying components for electric power steering: Makhachkala, Aviaelectronics in Kaluga and Korea. All electric boosters are available for free sale and you can choose any one, but experienced drivers prefer the Korean device.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

The blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is 12 volt power;
the red-brown contact is the connection cable to the tachometer;
the gray contact goes to the car speed controller;
white and pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
black-yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
brown contact is ground;
empty.

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, you need to remove all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack cover and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

After removing the switches, you will need to dismantle the lower cross member of the dashboard. To do this, you need to press the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. Once these steps are completed, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
The system bracket is secured with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
After this, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered down. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt must be unscrewed, but when unscrewing, you will need to fix the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, the fastening will need to be loosened, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully removed. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important because doing it will prevent possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause problems with the amplifier. When dismantling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the ESD.
When the unit is dismantled, it will need to be disassembled and the failed elements replaced. Further editing is done in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

Preparatory actions, dismantling unnecessary parts

To remove the crankcase protection, you need to unscrew 4 screws located in one row near the bumper. Also, unscrew two screws having a standard size of M6x16. In some configurations, the protection consists of two parts, but in this case they are attached only with self-tapping screws. These words are illustrated by the following photo:

First, unscrew the “10” screws, and then the two “18” screws. In the second case, there will be more screws (eight).

Now let's look at how to remove the battery. First of all, disconnect its terminals. Then, you need to move the additional fuse box to the side. In general, actions are performed according to the photo:

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

A little theory: front suspension design

Before attempting to fix any problem, there is a tendency to look at the blueprints or repair manual. It is known that the VAZ-2192 parts catalog contains the following object:

This is what the steering rack looks like in the drawing

Whether the knock will remain in the steering rack of Kalina-2 depends on the following: how accurately element “14” is adjusted. The adjusting nut, marked “14”, looks almost invisible here. But first impressions are deceiving. In the catalog, by the way, the element is called “Stop Nut”.

It is important to know that the thrust nut has external threads. And it spins clockwise. And the words “tighten the rack” mean screwing in the specified nut, and nothing more.

Now let's move on to practice and see what the node in question looks like in reality:

If you remove the rail, it looks like this

The nut has a non-standard notch, and it can only be rotated with a special tool. By the way, the recess will be closed with a cap. In the catalog it is designated by the number “15”, and now, let’s look at the appearance of the special key:

Rack adjustment key

The thrust nut is turned at small angles. We are talking about values of 10-15 degrees. What happens if you overdo it with tightening the rack? The knocking noise will disappear, but the steering wheel will turn with difficulty. Therefore, if necessary, the nut can be pulled back.