Malfunctions of the electric power steering and how to understand that the power steering is broken

Today, every Priora is equipped with electric power steering (EPS), and this also applies to basic configurations. At the beginning of the car's release, the unit came as an additional comfort option. Owners of this model know that the unit often jams and fails. The power steering has become the weak point of the Priora, but if necessary, repairs can be done with your own hands. In this material we will take a detailed look at what the EUR is, what breakdowns occur in this unit and how to fix them yourself. You should take on the job only if you have experience in servicing a car, since when replacing it we will have to disassemble half of the dashboard.

Purpose of the unit

Due to the operation of the ESD, the load and force on the steering wheel are reduced when making a turn. The unit greatly facilitates driving, and at high speed it does not allow dangerous maneuvers.

The unit includes the following components:

1. Steering wheel;
2. Column;
3. Shaft;
4. Electric motor;
5. Steering mechanism;
6. Electronic control unit (ECU);
7. Torque sensor.

When turning, the electric power steering is activated. The torque is provided by an electric motor, which is present in the EUR design. The torque sensor measures the indicator and sends it to the ECU. Depending on the angle of rotation, the block calculates how much power needs to be given to the motor. The switch located under the steering wheel contains a device that determines the angle of rotation. The torque and rotation sensors transmit data to the ECU, which “determines” whether the electric motor is running at the desired speed.

On previous generations of VAZ cars, a hydraulic booster was installed; it gave almost the same force in all rotation ranges. As for the electric power steering, the degree of force depends on many factors - the speed of rotation of the steering wheel and its angle, the speed of the power plant, the speed of movement.

ESD error on the dashboard

If an electric power steering error appears on the instrument panel, this may indicate a breakdown of the system or its incorrect operation. In this case, the electric amplifier can be fully operational. The error that appears on the dashboard is yellow. This indicates that it is possible to use the machine even when the power steering is not working, but certain safety measures will need to be observed.

If the device turns off completely, you will have to put more effort into operating the machine. To turn off the EUR, it is enough to remove the fuse responsible for its operation. If you notice that the system is not working correctly, it is better to remove the fuse and solve the problem.

If you notice that the indicator light on the control panel lights up only when the ignition is turned on, and goes out after starting the engine, then there is no need to worry. When the ignition is activated, the system diagnoses all components and mechanisms, so the appearance of an indicator is normal. But if the lamp continues to light even after starting the engine, then this indicates a problem.

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Undoubtedly, the electric booster is a more reliable unit than a device running on hydraulics, but malfunctions also appear in the power steering. If they are detected, repairs must be carried out immediately, since the safety of the driver, his companions and other road users depends on the operation of the amplifier.

Complete failure of the EUR

As practice shows, this unit does not have many faults; breakdowns occur in the same parts. The first thing worth considering is the complete failure of the ESD. When you turn off the amplifier, you need to check the on-board computer screen; most likely, you will see a code there indicating a malfunction in the unit. But sometimes it is possible to determine when an amplifier is turned off only in practice.

We perform the following actions:

1. Turn off the engine and turn the steering wheel in different directions several times;
2. We repeat these steps, but with the engine running;
3. Has the steering effort changed? This means the node has completely shut down.

Even with the ESD not working, you can continue driving, but this is not recommended. The driver needs time to get used to driving with the help of an amplifier. It is better to immediately begin diagnostics and determine which component requires repair or replacement.

Sometimes the amplifier and speedometer stop working at the same time. The cause of this defect is a speed sensor that has failed. Taking a look at the electrical diagram, you will understand that these three elements are connected. The torque sensor supplies data to the control unit, it compares it with speed and determines the force. If the cause is the speed sensor, then the repair consists of checking the wiring that leads to this element. It is also worth checking the wires connecting the sensor to the speedometer and power steering. If there are no breaks in the switching, then the sensor should be changed.

Low voltage in the car network can also lead to the ESD turning off. Faults should be looked for in the wiring insulation. If it is damaged, short circuits will appear in the network. Also, violations in insulation lead to malfunction of the generator. To troubleshoot the problem, check the wiring and generator. The torque sensor contains many contacts, which, if heavily soiled, help turn off the power steering. In this case, repair means disassembling the unit and cleaning the contacts of the torque sensor.

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Unpredictable steering behavior

The driver is driving on a flat road, the position of the steering wheel does not change, and suddenly the car turns to the side. Such unpredictable behavior of the power steering requires urgent diagnosis, since at the most inopportune moment the electric power steering of the Lada Priora can send the car to the side of the road or into the oncoming lane. In such a situation, you should stop driving and turn off the amplifier. To do this, we need to remove the fuse, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the amplifier.

To remove this fuse, you need to do the following:

1. The mounting block cover is located at the driver’s left foot;
2. We turn the clamps and unclip the fasteners;
3. You will find the block where the required fuse is located near the expansion tank;
4. Feel free to take out fuse F5 (50 A) - it is responsible for providing the power supply circuit to the power steering unit.

Fuse box

Check if the fuse is working, if it fails, replace it. It is very easy to check, check the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing a 50 amp relay to a 30 amp one will also help.

Newer versions of Kalina are equipped with electric amplifiers from Hyundai, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are still thousands of cars with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina yourself. The main thing to remember is that not every amplifier shutdown is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you will have to go to a service center.

Electric power steering is a device designed to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with amplifiers. ESD in a Lada Kalina car - what are its malfunctions, what are they, and what are the most effective solutions? Read about it below.

Replacing the EUR

So, you need to replace the electric booster on the Priora or simply check the condition of its contacts. In any case, repair involves complete removal of the unit. Prepare the necessary tools:

• Chisel and hammer.
• Deep head for 8 and 13.
• Extension and ratchet, alternatively you can use a wrench.

It’s quite easy to remove the amplifier itself with your own hands, but in order to get to its mounts and the control unit, you will need to remove many parts of the dashboard: the steering wheel along with the airbag, the casing and the ignition switch. Once these components are removed, repairs to the amplifier can begin.

Step-by-step instruction

1. We take the “eighth” head, put on the ratchet and remove the contact group, as shown in the photo below;

Now you can study the contacts in detail and, if necessary, make repairs. If you know that the main components (control unit, motor) have failed, then you need to replace them. Installation of a new device occurs in the reverse order. The DIY repair is complete.

There are two types of power steering: electric power steering and hydraulic power steering. Priora was composed of both. The price is higher for EUR, but sometimes it doesn’t work. The electric power steering of the Priora car has an analogue of the AENK-K, but it is 2 times more expensive than the standard power steering of the Lada Priora. With Eur, the steering wheel of a Priora car becomes much lighter. With gur you feel the road. Compared to the Eur, the Priora has more spare parts, is attached to the pentosin liquid, it needs to be monitored, topped up - so that starvation does not occur! The price for replacement also differs depending on the system, the EUR is easier to replace and can be called with a diagnostic connector, so this is the electric motor. Electric power steering (EPS) for Priora comes in two types: geared and gearless - and the first is an outdated technology that was installed on the first Priora - read about it in the article below.

The presence of electric power steering on the Priora has become an indispensable requirement for every car enthusiast. This is justified: once upon a time, the owners of domestic “Zhiguli”, from the first years behind the wheel, learned to turn the steering wheel with both hands with maximum effort. On modern cars, you can turn the steering wheel even on the spot in a snowdrift with one hand, therefore, when choosing a Lada Priora in the cabin, electric power steering was the first mandatory item in the package for many. Later they began to install steering wheel and power steering in all configurations.

Electric power steering is not installed on the Priora in all trim levels - the simplest one has power steering. Knowing the power steering device and being able to “bring it to life” is the direct responsibility of the Priora driver, who loves his car.

About qualified electric amplifier replacement

If there is a need to replace the mechanism when the ESD does not work, we recommend contacting experienced technicians. When the car is under warranty, the most rational measure would be to contact the dealer network to resolve the problem.

There are situations that do not allow you to resort to these two methods of eliminating an amplifier malfunction. Then the only solution will be to manually replace the mechanism that has become unusable.

Let us immediately make a reservation that the replacement process if the EUR does not work is characterized by sufficient complexity. To carry it out successfully, you will need experience and the possession of special tools. Unqualified replacement actions can aggravate the scale of the breakdown, which will entail a significant waste of money on more expensive repairs in service conditions.

Before the actual replacement procedure, we recommend that you carefully study the entire list of features and actions if the ESD does not work. Here you will need to delve into the connection diagram of the unit, which will avoid damage to the electrical components of the mechanism.

To remove the amplifier, partial disassembly of the front panel of the Lada Kalina is necessary. After this, the device itself must be disconnected from the entire list of supply wires. Sometimes owners repair the electric power steering, avoiding the need to replace it with a new unit. As a rule, after a complex of restoration work, standard devices work no worse than their new counterparts.

A common malfunction is the occurrence of a knock that clearly comes to the driver from under the panel or the amplifier turns off. This phenomenon may be accompanied by a characteristic squeak that occurs during rotational actions with the LADA Kalina steering wheel. This situation is usually solved by using a special lubricant. If such an action does not bring the expected result, then a more detailed diagnosis of the amplification mechanism will be required.

To install the electric power steering in the seat of the Lada Kalina, you will need to be attentive and patient. All cable connectors must be tightly seated, and the device itself must be firmly secured. Only after this can you proceed to the reassembly of the previously dismantled front panel components.

Why is it needed and its device

ESD is an electrical mechanism that reduces the control force with which the driver turns the steering wheel. It turns out that this cunning device takes on most of the effort, leaving the driver responsible for the safety of the maneuver. The design of the EUR is as follows:

• Electronic control unit and electric motor;

Controller and peripherals

• Steering wheel;
• Output/input shaft;
• Studs, nuts, bolts, etc.;
• Bracket;
• Steering rack;
• Connections;
• Steering wheel tilt adjustment lever.

It works like an ordinary electronic mechanism - for example, like a prosthesis: receiving data from sensors about the resistance of the road surface, vehicle speed, crankshaft speed, the force that the driver applies to turning the steering wheel, the “brain”, the electronic control unit, delivers the electric motor to sufficient power to so that the car can be controlled with one finger.

The steering column becomes almost weightless, and does not even give off the vibration familiar to many from prolonged holding in the extreme position.

Priora EUR control unit

This part serves to calculate the force applied to the steering wheel and the force that the electric motor applies to the steering wheel shaft. The block is also responsible for turning off the power steering at speeds above 100 km/h for a more sensitive understanding of the car.

The EUR control unit on the Lada Priora is located near the power steering electric motor on a special bracket.

Standard electric amplifier - article number and price

On the market you can find geared (outdated) and gearless EPS (electromechanical power steering) for Priora. It is worth concentrating on the second option, there are reasons for this:

Fast request processing: the “intermediary” - the gearbox - disappears - the ECU copes faster with the driver’s commands; More durable. The gear transmission of the gearbox can break at an inconvenient moment, but in a gearless electric power steering system the moment is transmitted directly to the steering rack. The noise level is reduced. The article number of the gearless EUR for the VAZ 2170 Priora is 2172-3450008-02. The price ranges from 20,000 to 25,000 rubles. The cost of a geared EUR is two thousand lower, but is it worth it - to skimp, pay less money, and then deal with frequent breakdowns?

Why do steering problems occur?

The main reason is the unsatisfactory condition of the roads. The car's suspension absorbs most of the shock to the wheels, but some of it is still transmitted to the steering mechanisms. It is worth noting that fans of low-profile tires risk much more than adherents of using standard wheels - low tires are unable to smooth out bumps, and this significantly reduces the service life of both the suspension and steering wheel.

But car owners should remember that even with extremely careful driving on a perfectly flat road, they will still have to change individual steering elements. They have a limited service life and some parts are consumables.

Advantages and disadvantages over power steering

Power steering (power steering) was once the ultimate dream for many, but you had to tinker with it - which only cost the constant addition of working fluid to the reservoir, plus a thrifty attitude towards the mechanism.

Benefits that the owner of a Priora with EUR receives:

More reliable mechanism. It's simple - there is nothing that often breaks (pulleys, hoses) or runs out (liquid). In addition, diagnostic data on faults can be obtained from the ECU. Installation, according to the manufacturer, will take no more than 1.5 hours - with wires everything will be much easier than with connecting hoses. In addition, you don't have to climb into the engine compartment. Passive impact safety Adjustability. Initially, after installation, the force will increase with increasing vehicle speed. This can be changed by reprogramming the data in the ECU - for example, reducing the force from the mechanism with increasing speed. Energy saving. The electric motor inside does not work constantly - it starts only when the driver starts to turn the steering wheel.

It would be wrong to remain silent about the shortcomings:

You don’t “feel” the road - power steering makes the car more sensitive, an experienced driver appreciates this. The EMUR mechanism (electromechanical power steering) is more expensive than power steering. Basic faults

The best plan is to identify the malfunction of the device before starting to move, otherwise a surprise while driving can lead to surprises. It turns out that while driving a person will continue to apply little effort to turning the steering wheel, which is why the car can go straight during the intended turn.

When turning on the ignition, always wait until all the sensor lights come on. The EUR sensor in the form of a steering wheel will also light up. Within two seconds, the electronic control unit diagnoses the entire system; if after this time the sensor does not burn out, the ECU has found a fault.

Not every malfunction of the ECU is reflected on the dashboard:

Shocks in the steering wheel; When the engine is off and when the engine is on, the hand effort is almost the same. As mentioned earlier, the ECU controls everything. Of course, you can find out about any breakdown through the diagnostic connector, to which you can connect yourself. It may produce the following error codes that relate to the EUR:

If the electric power steering on a Priora does not work, and it is not even possible to connect to the diagnostic connector, you can try the old “old-fashioned” method:

Insert the key into the ignition lock. In the eight-pin connector of the control unit, close contacts 6 and 7 (the first one is near the latch, upper right); Turn on the ignition, but do not turn on the engine. In this case, you need to look at the dashboard - at the place where the EMUR icon lights up.

Reasons for shutdown

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system performs a self-diagnosis and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on indicating a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The light turns red, the problem needs to be fixed urgently. If the color is yellow, the vehicle can be operated, but safety precautions should be taken. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

• speed sensor malfunction;
• torque sensor malfunction;
• speed exceeds 60 km/h;
• engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
• failure in the control unit;
• poorly soldered contacts;
• insufficient tension.

Software shutdown

1. The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km/h. Therefore, keep this point in mind; it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. The Priora's electric power steering is switched off at a speed of 110 km/h.
2. Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is not active.

This is software planned inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce wear of the mechanism.

Electrical booster malfunctions

A direct indicator of a malfunction of the speed sensor in Kalina's electric power steering is a non-working speedometer, as well as a lit-up exclamation mark on the dashboard. It may not work for several reasons. Check the appearance of the sensor; if it is covered with dirt, simply clean it. See if any metal shavings have become magnetized and remove those as well.

If this does not help, then the sensor is probably faulty. Such sensors are now inexpensive and can be found in many auto parts stores. We do the same for the torque sensor. But where is the speed sensor? It is usually located in the gearbox housing, see photo on the left.

Another cause of malfunction of Kalina’s electric power steering is the generator. The control unit requires a voltage of 13.6 V to operate; if you have less, change the voltage regulator (chocolate) on it.

Also, the contacts could simply become disconnected due to poor-quality soldering. You can either disassemble and solder the contacts or send it to service.

If the problem is in the control unit, it is difficult to solve this problem yourself; the service will either solder it or you will have to buy a new one.

The decoding is as follows:

• 1 long 1 short System OK;
• 1 long 2 short No engine speed signal;
• 1 long 3 short Torque sensor faulty;
• 1 long 4 short EMUR motor malfunction;
• 1 long 5 short Faulty steering shaft position sensor;
• 1 long 6 short Malfunction of the EMUR engine rotor position sensor;
• 1 long 7 short Malfunction of the car's electrical system (below 10V or more than 18V);
• 1 long 8 short Malfunction of the EMUR control unit;
• 1 long 9 short Vehicle speed sensor malfunction;

Differences between EUR and power steering

The electric amplifier differs from the hydraulic one in the absence of fluid and the pump necessary to pump this fluid. Also, the hydraulic power steering operates entirely on mechanics, unlike the electric power steering, in which mechanics are involved only in the rack and steering wheel. EUR is much simpler and easier to maintain, but in terms of repairs it is much more expensive.

Advantages and disadvantages of EUR over power steering

Although the EUR is more modern and technologically advanced, it has both advantages and disadvantages over the power steering.

Advantages:

• The simplest design that does not require constant monitoring of the liquid level (dixtron);
• There is no need to service the power steering pump, since it simply does not exist;
• Reduction of force with increasing vehicle speed;
• Ability to programmatically adjust steering wheel force;
• Reliability of the design;
• Compact, no bulky pump in the engine compartment and no extra hoses;
• The simplicity of the steering rack and its reliability, since it is dry and there is simply nothing to leak in it (everyone knows very well about the disease of “wet” racks);

• High power consumption, at some points the electric power steering can take up to 40% of the electrical power of the car’s generator and cause voltage drops in the on-board network;
• Possibility of overheating of the electric motor when driving on a dirt road (track) up to the complete shutdown of the power steering;

As you can see, the more modern power steering has many more advantages, which is why it is gaining great popularity among cars at the present time.

Removing and installing electric booster - tools

Even manually diagnosing something with an EUR will be difficult - one way or another, you will have to remove it. To do this, you should prepare and get:

• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Extension;
• Driver (ratchet);
• Heads for 8 and 13.

Let's sort it out

• Disassemble and remove the steering column. Remove the negative terminal from the battery;
• Using the eighth head, remove the contact group;
• Disconnect all wiring from the gray metal block. Each wire is under a lock, so handle them carefully, try not to damage the contacts;
• Disconnect the steering rack and cardan mounts by removing the bolt. Using a chisel and hammer, loosen the universal joint;
• Unscrew the four nuts that secure the amplifier to the body;
• Pull out the EUR.

To install the EUR, all steps are performed in reverse order. It is highly recommended that during dismantling you remember (better - take a photo!) the connections of all wires so that the installation goes smoothly the first time.

Hello everyone, there is a problem with the power steering, the car was standing in the cold, warming up, sat down, everything was fine, I arrived at the garage and didn’t turn it off, well, it worked for an hour, then when I turned the steering wheel all the way, there was a click, the power switch turned off, turned it off, started everything back to normal, and so on for a couple of days, then it stopped working altogether! What could it be?

Comments 65

It works flawlessly for me in the summer, but as soon as the cold weather starts, the engine switches off, I give up and drive like this, I don’t have the money to pay 15-16 thousand rubles for it.

Please tell me what happened? I removed the torpedo for the ShVI, put it back, the EUR stopped working, the front is intact, no oxidation chips, also without oxidation, these are the errors

Mine was also buggy, and then completely died. Everything was as in the description, it turned off after a click and turned on when the engine was restarted. And at one point it stopped working completely. I advise you to urgently go to a diagnostician. They say in such cases the steering wheel can become stuck at any moment, God forbid, at speed.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.