Press-fit bullet for torque rod bushings. Replacing torque rod bushings for VAZs

Today we will tell you about the nuances, tips and secrets that VAZ classic owners use when replacing torque rods and rubber bushings of rear suspension rods. This entire article is based on both my personal experience and the experience of forum members. We have simply combined the main points on replacement and problems that you may have to encounter into one article and present it to you. If you still have any questions, you can ask us on the forum in the appropriate topic in the “Chassis” section. So - diagnostics. What can make us climb into the rear suspension? Extraneous knocks, strange behavior of the car, expressed in wobbling along the road. Carefully inspect the condition of the rubber bushings - they should not be nicked, torn, etc.

So I’ll say right away - replacing bushings is not a 5-minute task. In general, when replacing the bushings, I unscrewed each rod in turn and immediately after replacing, screwed it into place, then removed the next one. If you remove everything at once, installation may be difficult, since the bridge will move. Now I will describe the process itself - first I knocked out the metal bushings; some, due to the high wear of the rubber bands, fell out into my hands. Next, the rubber band - so as not to worry about pressing it out, I took a hacksaw for metal, removed the blade, threaded it into the hole where there was a metal sleeve, screwed it to the hacksaw and made two cuts so that a small piece of the sleeve fell out on its own, and then the remaining part was pulled out by hand. Pressing is more difficult...

You can use a pressing tool like this:

But you can go the other way. Initially, the rubber bushing is lubricated with a soap solution so that it “slips through” and then: the first method is to press it in a LARGE vice, sometimes not the first time, but it is pressed in; it is useless to press it in with your hands or a hammer. And if there is no vice, I used the weight of the car and a jack, that is, I laid down the rod, put a bushing soaked in the solution on it, then I put the jack on top of them and lifted the car with it. The machine uses its weight to press the rubber bushing into the rod. We perform the same manipulations with metal bushings.

Returning to the question of devices for pressing bushings, a ball from a bearing with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing is very convenient; we place the ball on the bushing and press it in in a large vice, the ball carefully pushes the rubber band apart and the entire pressing occurs quickly and without any effort. I pressed it all the way, spread the vice, substituted something with a wider diameter than the bearing, I used the spread pliers, pressed it, and suddenly the ball was ready for new tests.

When disassembling (unscrewing) the rods, there are cases when the bolt has rusted to the metal sleeve, and there is no way to get it out of there... If you knock it out, then you have to scatter the floor of the bridge there. There is only one way out -

Bulgarian Cut exactly along the bushing. First, cut from the nut side, gradually turning the bolt, since the grinder will not be able to cut off the entire bolt in one go, then cut from the head side, also turning the bolt by the head. For ease of work, cut off the rod itself so that it does not interfere.

The basis of safe driving is the stability of the car on the road. This rule applies to both trucks and passenger cars. And the VAZ 2107 is no exception. The handling of this car has always left much to be desired. To somehow make life easier for drivers, engineers developed a jet thrust system for the “Seven”. But any part, as we know, can fail. And then the driver will be faced with the question: is it possible to change a broken rod with your own hands? Yes, you can. Let's try to figure out how this is done.

Replacement of silent blocks of VAZ 2107 Lada Master

This type of work is needed quite often on the “seven”. As a rule, the need is caused due to the rapid wear of the elements themselves. The rubber used in manufacturing does not tolerate temperature changes well, which causes the part to begin to deteriorate and does not fulfill its functional purpose. For this reason, experts advise replacing them once a year, and if necessary, more often. The workflow does not cause any difficulties; the simplest tools are enough.

1. Preparing for work
2. Required Tools
3. Changing the upper silent blocks
4. How to change the lower silent block
5. Features of replacement on the rear suspension

Preparing for work

Replacing silent blocks begins with selecting the necessary parts. If you make a mistake at this stage, there is a possibility that the next repair work will be approaching.

Drivers often buy parts made of rubber. But they have certain disadvantages - they creak and collapse quite quickly. Experts recommend using polyurethane silent blocks. They cost more, but are more durable and have a longer service life.

This element should be changed as soon as a strong creaking or knocking noise appears. The need for replacement is determined visually. The occurrence of cracks, scuffing, and deformation are the main causes of failure. A silent block malfunction can have a negative impact on all suspension elements.

Required Tools

To carry out the replacement you will need:

• hammer, chisel and pry bar;
• liquid key and gas burner;
• You can’t do without a silent block and ball puller.

Before repair work, it is necessary to treat all threaded areas that need to be disassembled for several hours. The front part of the car should be jacked up and jack stands placed under the car. The wheel is removed from the side where it should be replaced.

Changing the upper silent blocks

The event is simple, but has its own characteristics. Everything is done quite quickly. The nuts securing the bumper and ball joint are unscrewed, which is pressed out with a puller. The nuts of the upper arm are unscrewed and pulled out completely. We remove the silent blocks. We install new ones without using lubricants. The lever is put back, but the nuts are not screwed in tightly. The support is installed, then the wheel, and the car can now be lowered. And only now do we finally tighten the screw.

Sometimes difficulties may arise - the mounting screw will rust. It should be cut with a grinder and pulled out in parts.

How to change the lower silent block

Here everything is a little more complicated. All work will have to be done by car. Unscrew all the fastening nuts of the lever axle. A puller is screwed onto either side to use it to squeeze the silent block out of the socket. The same procedures are performed on the second side. We press-fit parts for replacement. The nuts are screwed on, but not tightened too much. The wheel is put on, the car is lowered to the ground. Now the mount can be tightened as much as possible. If there is no puller, then the entire lever with suspension elements is removed. In this case, the silent block is knocked out with a regular hammer.

Features of replacement on the rear suspension

The levers are removed one by one. They replace the hinges. To make the work easier, you should drive the machine into a pit or use a lift. The main difficulty may arise with the internal bushings, which become sour. But even in this situation, you can use an angle grinder.

If the mounting bolts can be reached without any problems, then replacement is easy. Before pressing in a new bushing, the seat should be cleaned of corrosion and remaining rubber particles. Next, the mating surfaces are coated with a soap solution. Do not use automobile oil and grease, as the rubber may be damaged from their impact. Now the bushing can be driven into the lever with one blow.

Repair work to replace silent blocks is familiar to every driver. This is due to the fact that this element is not reliable and often breaks down, requiring regular replacement. There is nothing complicated about it; even a novice driver can perform all the steps.

Upper

Using a car jack, lift the side of the car where the worn silent block will be replaced and remove the wheel. Now you should free the bipod from the upper ball joint. Unscrew the support nut with a 22mm wrench and press it out with a special puller. Experienced car enthusiasts use a heavy hammer to do this and hit the protrusion on the bipod, after which the ball joint pin comes out of its socket.

Now you can begin removing the upper arm. For the VAZ-2107, before this you need to remove the upper bumper mounting bolt. After removing the bolt, use keys 22 and 24 to unscrew the nut and knock out the bolt. After this, the part will remain in your hands. A puller is used to remove silent blocks from their sockets to press in new ones. If this fails, they are simply burned out.

Replacing the silent blocks of the upper arm of the VAZ-2107 must be done on a dry surface:

1. They are pressed into the sockets of the upper arm of the VAZ-2107, after which they take their place.
2. Do not overtighten the nut of the lever mounting bolt; this is done last.
3. Now install the upper ball joint.

Replacement of the upper arm silent block is completed.

Tie rod malfunctions

The jet thrust of the VAZ 2107, like any other car, takes on loads aimed at shifting or rocking the rear axle. If these parts fail, the car’s behavior on the road changes: handling deteriorates, braking distance increases, and even there is a threat of a sudden change in trajectory or the car overturning. What factors cause breakage or wear of steering rods?

1. Static loads. It is impossible to avoid this factor, but you can reduce it without overloading the car.
2. Torsional loads. They most often occur when hitting an obstacle. You can reduce them by reducing speed in front of an obstacle.
3. Chemical effects of water and chemicals sprinkled on roads in winter.

Purpose

It is worth noting that this traction was used by automakers long before the appearance of the classics. Thus, the element was used on cars with dependent leaf spring suspension. The design of the rod has not changed for years. On the “seven” this element is a long metal pipe installed under the bottom near the rear axle.

The part is attached to the body using rubber-metal bushings. Why is jet thrust needed on a VAZ-2107? This element is designed to prevent lateral rocking of the car. Since the Zhiguli had a dependent suspension at the rear, this car leaned heavily when cornering. To stabilize its body and increase safety, the machine is equipped with jet thrust. The VAZ-2107 is equipped with an element made of elastic steel grades. This material can withstand high loads for a long time and works well in compression and tensile strength.

When to change jet rods on a VAZ 2107?

As we mentioned, only high-quality metal is used in the manufacture of rods (usually steel). The latter is able to withstand enormous loads over many years of operation.

The “weak link” of the part is the lugs, which are not a continuation of the rods, but are only welded to them. It is no secret that welding has its own service life. Over time, the joints may become damaged or even collapse.

To eliminate problems in movement and prevent breakage of rods, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the part from time to time.

If signs of destruction, cracks, deformation and other malfunctions appear, the VAZ 2107 jet rods must be replaced.

In this case, pay special attention to silent blocks - they often cannot withstand loads and break. As a result, the fixation of the rods deteriorates, they move relative to the base and cease to perform their functions

At the same time, you should not wait until the rubber bands fail. If knocking noises occur during movement, inspection, or detection of cracks on the rods, replace them immediately. To do this, you don’t need to go to a service station - you can do everything yourself, as it’s not at all difficult.

Types of breakdowns and their causes

The thrust rod is made of durable metal and rarely wears out. Most often, the element is damaged near the bushings and welds.

Causes:

1. The suspension is constantly subject to shock and vibration, especially when used in severe conditions. This area is the weakest point of the assembly, which wears out over time. Often the bushings become unusable and cause extraneous noise and knocking.
2. The second reason is that the rods are located under the bottom, which is constantly exposed to moisture, salt, and dirt. As a result, corrosion forms on the element. After a while it corrodes the metal. The traction loses its strength and functionality.

To avoid this situation, it is necessary to constantly monitor the degree of wear of the suspension elements and carry out an inspection approximately once every six months. If there are cracks or various deformations, the element must be replaced with a new one.

A malfunction of the jet rods on a Niva Chevrolet car can be determined by the behavior of the vehicle. During long-term use, the bushings break and the rod ceases to perform its functions:

• the car leans more when turning;
• You can hear dull knocks coming from the rear suspension of the vehicle, especially when starting, braking or changing gears.

For an accurate determination, it is necessary to install the car on an inspection pit or overpass and inspect it for the presence of cracks on the rods, especially in welding areas. You also need to check the condition of the rubber bushings.

Then, by shaking each reaction rod, check the play. If one element malfunctions, all rods must be replaced, because The load is distributed evenly on the rear suspension.

If the rod is rotten or broken off, it will drag along the ground. The car will have problems with control. In such a situation, you need to tie the rod with a wire to the stationary part of the suspension and go to the repair site at low speed.

Malfunctions of the front suspension of the VAZ 2101

The service life of front suspension elements directly depends on the conditions and intensity of vehicle operation, as well as on the quality of the parts used. Since this or that malfunction manifests itself in different ways, it is worth dwelling on each of them in more detail.

Noises and knocks while driving

Extraneous sounds in the operation of the suspension can occur for a number of reasons:

• failure of shock absorbers. In this case, it is necessary to replace the damaged shock absorbers;
• wear of silent blocks. “Broken” hinges need to be replaced;
• development of the transverse stabilizer in the rubber cushions. Inspection and replacement of worn-out products is required;
• The shock absorber rod mount has come loose or the rubber cushions have become unusable. It is necessary to check the fasteners and, if necessary, replace rubber products;
• ball joint malfunctions. When a working appears, the failed supports must be replaced;
• increased clearance in wheel bearings. It is necessary to adjust the gap, and if the bearings are worn out, parts need to be replaced;
• wheel imbalance. It is necessary to check and, if necessary, balance the wheels;
• wheel rim damage. The disk needs to be restored or replaced;
• spring breakage or sag. The front suspension springs need to be replaced;
• damage to the bumpers. Rebound buffers that have become unusable require replacement;
• loosening of the upper or lower arms. In this case, it is necessary to check and tighten the nuts and bolts.

Video: causes of knocking in the front suspension

The car is pulled to the side

If the vehicle pulls to the side, then there can be no question of any safety of movement. There may be several reasons for this behavior:

• different tire pressures. The correct pressure must be checked and set;
• The front wheels are at the wrong angle. A visit to a car service center is required to adjust the wheel alignment;
• Excessive play in the wheel bearing. If there is a large gap, adjustment should be made;
• The front suspension arms or axle are deformed. Replacement of damaged parts is required;
• the springs have uneven subsidence. The front springs need to be replaced;
• The brake mechanism is not fully released. The brake mechanism should be checked and the malfunction eliminated;
• Tire tread has a big difference in wear. Worn tires need to be replaced;
• wheel imbalance. Eliminated in the same way as with knocking in the suspension.

Suspension breakdowns

Sometimes in the operation of the suspension characteristic impacts of metal on metal occur, which is called breakdown. This indicates that one or another part of the suspension does not fulfill its function. The reasons for this phenomenon may be the following:

• sag of front springs. Elastic elements need to be replaced;
• The shock absorbers have become unusable. If damping devices break or fail, they should be replaced;
• deformation of levers. Levers with changed geometry must be replaced with serviceable ones.

There can actually be many more faults in the front suspension. For example, the appearance of squeaks when driving over uneven surfaces may indicate the failure of silent blocks, oil smudges on shock absorbers indicate damage to the product and indicate the need to replace it, etc.

Signs

What may indicate the need to replace this element? If you do not take into account external inspection, a traction fault can be determined by the nature of the car’s behavior. Over time, the bushings become loose and the rod no longer performs its function.

The car rolls more when cornering, and dull knocks are also heard in the cabin. This indicates failed silent blocks. Well, if the rod is rusty and broken, part of it will simply drag along the ground. It is hardly possible not to notice such a malfunction. But how can you get home if your traction breaks on the way? You can hang part of it on some element under the bottom (for example, a muffler) using a wire and carefully move to the parking area and repair.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

Tie rods provide protection against swaying and loss of control on the road, during sharp turns and obstacles. Even earlier versions of the car had similar problems. But inside the cars there were only ordinary springs; no one knew anything about the system with rods.

It is for this reason that the vehicle caused many problems when driving. Only over time the suspension was modified. A system was installed with several long rods. This part carried the main load.

Classic VAZ 2107 cars and other models contain the following version of the torque rod kit:

1. Long.
2. Short.
3. A large transverse one, which also serves as the basis for the entire system.

Installation location - near the car axle located at the rear. The system is visible only from the inspection hole, where repair work is usually carried out if the reaction rods are replaced.

FakeHeader

Comments 7

Hello. Two years have passed. I just came across your story. Now I was tightening the upper silent blocks, the rubber bands on the outside stupidly came out from under the washers. And I didn’t make it to 60. I’m sitting here scratching my turnips. True, my graphics are blurry. But the lower ones were also lubricated, they were tightened for 80 minutes and did not come out.

Hello! Thank you for remembering) The range is 60-90 N*m because our rubber products are produced according to specifications. It’s not clear to anyone what specifications a particular manufacturer has. You shouldn’t pinch the rubber bands—that’s a fact. My silent blocks drove for 3000, then I swapped them as is with levers onto a friend’s car, tightened them by eye - and it’s still running.

About modernization of jet thrusts

Sometimes drivers decide to independently increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Typically, modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:

• installation of dual jet rods;
• installation of reinforced jet thrusts.

Now a little more about each of the above operations.

Twin rods

Most often, drivers install dual rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure you don't have to do anything with the pulls. You simply purchase not one, but two sets of rods that are installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, you purchase not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts, on which this entire structure rests.

The obvious advantage of such modernization is the increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the tie rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a break in the tie rod is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, which cannot be heard this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “eaten up” small unevenness in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and holes while driving.

Reinforced traction

If the jet thrust breaks at high speed, the car can be thrown sharply to the side, which can cause people to get hurt. Therefore, reinforced rods are produced. Parts are made from steel with additional alloying substances, resulting in increased wear resistance, and the metal does not corrode.

The reinforced rods are made in a diamond shape and have good welds connected to the eyes.

They differ from the usual ones in the following characteristics:

• strong welds;
• high-quality paintwork;
• increased resistance to stress, compression and tension;
• increased weight of the product due to the thickness of the metal.

If the car is operated in urban conditions on asphalt roads, there is no point in installing reinforced elements. They are designed for extreme off-road driving.

Replacing bushings and silent blocks on VAZ 2107 rods

Silent blocks with bushings are disposable parts that need to be replaced immediately. In a garage, restoring parts becomes impossible. To replace you will need to acquire the following things:

1. The beard is 10 mm in diameter.
2. Hammer.
3. Press-fitting device. It may also be needed when the rear axle is being repaired.

Sequencing

Follow the above instructions when removing the traction. Parts must be pre-treated with WD-40. A wire brush helps remove dirt and dust. Further actions are performed according to the specified algorithm:

After removing the rod, the bushing should be removed without problems;

But this behavior is typical for parts without serious rust, with severe wear. Otherwise, you will have to use a hammer to knock the structure out of its place. The beard is inserted inside first.

They get rid of the silent block if the rubber part is damaged too much. Use a screwdriver or a mounting shovel to pry up parts that prevent everything from being freed; Using a sharp knife or sandpaper, carefully clean the surface of the eyelet inside. Remains of rubber and rust should then disappear completely; A new bushing is placed in the eye and pressing is carried out using new equipment; The beard helps with this part of the job.

The main thing is to act carefully to avoid damage.

Diagnostics of rubber-metal joints

To check the condition of silent blocks, you need to use a pit or overpass. Without such amenities, it will be problematic to drive the seven, so there should be a pit in every garage. therefore, it can be repaired by hand without any problems. But you need to determine whether the VAZ-2107 silent blocks need to be replaced; the price of one is approximately 50 rubles. For a set of 8 silent blocks you will pay 400 rubles.

Carefully inspect the suspension on the lever, evaluate the appearance of the rubber-metal hinge. If the rubber has obvious damage - it has begun to become cracked, or there are any cuts at all, then all elements must be replaced. When carrying out repairs, try to do as much work as possible. Therefore, you not only change all eight silent blocks, but also, after assessing the condition of the balls, replace them if necessary. It is also worth looking at the condition and tightening the nut if necessary.

Installation of traction is done as follows:

• First, the rod is mounted in the front bracket. Before inserting the bolt into the desired hole, it is treated with nigrol;
• The reaction rod is placed in the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes at the mounting location don't line up.

If the jet rod was broken, then the bridge would move all the time under load. This led to the shift.

To adjust the holes, you need to use a mounting spatula, resting it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the fasteners align. When they match, you need to insert the bolt and secure it with a nut.

With the help of such manipulations, you will be able to replace the jet rods with your own hands and save money on visiting a service station.

I am glad to welcome you, friends, to the blog ""

The knocking noise in the rear wheels of the kopeck, deuce and the next row of classic models of the domestic automobile industry appears from wear on the bushings of the reaction rods or, as they are also called, rods. Almost all classic VAZs in their layout contain these elements necessary for the rear axle.

Some car owners change the entire rod, but to eliminate knocking or other malfunctions, it is enough to change only the bushings, which wear out very quickly, unless, of course, the rod itself is bent or deformed. Naturally, changing a complete rod is much easier than knocking out a worn rubber band and then pressing a new one back in, but this process is more economical and not so complicated.

On the market today you can find many different repair kits, both for complete rods and for bushings separately

When purchasing, you should pay attention to the equipment, and more specifically to the number of large and small rubber spare parts. Most provide sets with 4 large and 6 small bushings. It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size

Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, it will be necessary to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced

It is better to take a repair kit for the VAZ-2121 in which all the elements are of the same large size. Of course, you will have to tinker with them, but the resulting result will meet all expectations. In addition to rubber bushings, you will also need to purchase metal bushings, which in any case will also need to be replaced.

The procedure for replacing rear torque rod bushings must be carried out in the inspection pit. First of all, you need to unscrew the nuts on the bolts that connect the rod to the car body and the bridge. Then remove the bolts and release the rod itself.

When using the machine for a long time, to carry out this operation, you may need special tools, for example, a metal spacer, with which you can knock out a rusted bolt. After removing the jet thrust, you can begin to knock out the worn bushings. To do this, it is better to clamp the eye of the rod in a vice, and use the same spacer and hammer to knock out the rubber. Once the bushing has moved out of its place, it can be easily removed by prying it off with a screwdriver. As a last resort, if it is already stuck to the metal, the bushing can be pulled out with pliers. After freeing the rod ear from the rubber bushing, its inner surface must be cleaned with sandpaper and the surface wiped with a dry cloth.

When installing a new bushing, you need to make sure that the inner surface of the ear is smooth and free of roughness. Next, the rod and the new elastic band are treated with soapy water in order to avoid much friction. The bushing to be replaced is inserted into the eye of the rod and, using a vice, is carefully and slowly pressed into place. After this, the metal part is installed in the same way. The same actions must be performed with the second part of the jet thrust.

In addition to replacing the bushings, you also need to take care of the bolts and nuts. It is advisable to change them too, because jet thrust is a moving element of the car. The seats of the car body and axle are pre-cleaned and lubricated with special oil. After this, the rod with the replaced bushings is screwed to the body. You can also lubricate the bolts themselves, thus protecting them from corrosion.

Knocks and shaking in VAZ cars mainly depend on the rear thrust rods, so attention should be paid to them, especially since solving the problem does not involve large financial investments and does not require more skill and experience. There were even cases when the rear rod simply burst in the area of ​​the eye and the rear axle “drove” along the road, but the domestic car still kept moving

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107

It is necessary to prepare a kit with tools and consumables in advance. Their main list is as follows:

• Hammer;
• Set with open-end wrenches. The reinforced double type parts are sometimes difficult to remove without additional tools;
• Blades for installation;
• WD-40 – this composition removes rust;
• A set with new reaction rods, including a transverse one.

When everything is ready, they begin the work itself.

Removing jet rods

Removing old parts is the first step where work begins.

The process involves the following sequence:

1. A wire brush is used to remove rust and dirt from threaded connections. Then WD-40 is used for processing. You will need to wait some time before the work can continue. The instructions are also relevant for the classic model.
2. Completely unscrew the nut, due to which the washer is held on the free side. This process is difficult, it is better to take a long wrench and, if necessary, re-treat the surface with WD-40.
3. Dismantling the bolt and nut, moving to the other side. The rear parts are dismantled in almost the same way.
4. Unscrewing the nut from the lower shock absorber mounting. The bolt with the spacer sleeve is also removed.
5. Shift towards the shock absorber itself. Otherwise you won't be able to access the second bolt.
6. Clean the bolt threads with a wire brush, then apply WD-40 again.
7. Unscrew the nut and pull out the bolt. The elastic band also changes if necessary.

The bolt is simply cut off if the nut cannot be unscrewed. Removing the reaction rods involves using a spatula for installation. Remains of the fastening must be removed if the bolt had to be cut off.

Reverse welding of cracks will not help when they appear on the surface. The seam then still cannot withstand the load. Such parts can only be replaced in full.

Repair and installation of jet rods

Reuse is permissible only if the metal part remains intact. Rubber silent blocks must be replaced in any case. The old parts are removed from the lugs and then new ones are installed. Treating the surface with dishwashing detergent simplifies this process.

New rods are installed in the following order:

• The traction eye is mounted in the front bracket;
• The securing bolt is lubricated with nigrol, lithol. Everything is inserted into the bracket and tightened with a nut;
• The tie rod eye is inserted into the rear tie rod bracket;
• Insert the bolt with lubricant, then secure with a nut.

A situation is acceptable when the holes at the traction eye and the bracket do not coincide with each other. Then take a mounting blade and, if possible, correct the current position.

The lower part of the shock absorber at the rear is secured when the bulk of the work is completed.

Let's get started

Having thoroughly cleaned the joints with a brush, treat them generously with universal lubricant. You need to wait until it completely penetrates inside. Next, select the head of the required size (19) and unscrew the nut that holds the rod on the free side. If it is tight, you can re-spray the threaded joint with lubricant. When the end of the bolt is level with the nut, take a hammer in your hands. It is necessary to strike the bolt several times and remove the latter out. After that we move on to the second side. To remove it, you need to unscrew the lower shock absorber mount.

Next, remove the spacer sleeve of the elastic element. This way we will get access to the second bolt of the VAZ-2107 jet thrust. If the nuts are difficult to unscrew, and even lubricant does not help, you can cut off the bolt with a grinder. Please note: do not knock out this element with a hammer, since it is close to the gearbox. At the next stage, you need to get the remains of the rod itself out.

When a VAZ-2107 needs to replace jet rods

As previously mentioned, rods are made of high-quality metal (mainly steel). This raw material can withstand heavy loads over many years of use.

The weak point of the rods is the eyes. These parts are welded to the rods and are not a continuation of them, and the welding has a certain service life. Over time, the solder joints may gradually become damaged or destroyed.

To avoid problems when driving and to prevent malfunction of the rods, you need to periodically check the condition of the spare parts. If deformation, cracks, or signs of destruction occur, the reaction rods must be replaced.

In this case, there is no need to wait for the rubber bands to fail. If knocking noises occur while the vehicle is moving, inspect and identify damage to the rods, change them immediately. To do this, you don’t have to go to a service station; you can do everything yourself.

How to replace jet rods on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! If you decide to replace all the rods, then think about replacing the bolts, what this will give you, firstly, it will be more pleasant to work with new bolts, and secondly, the nuts will be screwed much easier on the thread than will happen with old rusty bolts , and thirdly, in the future, if you have to work with the rods again, the new bolts will be much easier to unscrew and knock out (Nothing will rust because in a short time), but we recommend replacing the bolts only if the old bolts have already deteriorated and everything is rusty!

1. Absolutely all the links that are present in the rear suspension of a classic car are removed identically, so we will not show a separate photo about each link and explain how it changes, let’s take the central link as an example (Others are removed in the same way, but there are some nuances, we will we’ll indicate everything), in general, let’s get started, first of all, lubricate the bolts and nuts securing the torque rods with a penetrating lubricant (This can be WD-40), then let the lubricant soak thoroughly (5 minutes is enough) and after waiting for that, you can start working.

2. First of all, take two wrenches (One of which should be a spanner, and the other a knob and head, this is much more convenient) and holding the bolt from turning with one, unscrew the nut with the other, as soon as the operation is completed, knock out the bolt using the handle of a hammer or using something similar (the bolt can be completely knocked out with a drift or another bolt of a suitable size), then lift the rod to the top and clean the entire seat from dirt, if there is any dirt on the metal eyes (This is where the bolt is inserted that secures the rod, there are two eyes in total, on one end the head of the bolt sticks out, and on the other there is a nut) traces of rust are found, then in this case take sandpaper and clean it off, on the other side the central link (Where it is attached to the body) is disconnected in the same way, after disconnecting, remove completely traction from the car.

3. We have sorted out the central links, if you decide to remove the transverse rod, you need to unscrew it in exactly the same way (It is attached to the sides), but there is one problem in the installation, when the rod is removed, the angles of the rear wheels change (They collapse) and therefore when the new link If you bring it up, you will find that the hole for the bolt will not match (see photo below), but you can overcome this by inserting a powerful screwdriver into the hole and forcefully aligning these two holes and pulling it out, on the other hand immediately insert a bolt that will be hammered in later you will have to tighten the nut of this bolt, and the rod will be completely installed.

4. And let’s say a few words about the last links, they are the most difficult to change, because there you will also need to unscrew the lower part of the rear shock absorber (How to unscrew the rear shock absorber from below, read the article entitled: “”, paragraph 2-5), after To do this, fold back the lower part of the shock absorber so that it does not interfere and do exactly the same actions as with the other rods, that is, with one key, hold the bolt from turning, and with the other, unscrew the nut, knocking out the bolt, disconnect the rod from one end, it is completely disconnected from the body identically.

5. During all the replacement operations, you will only have problems with the bolts, namely, it will be very difficult to put them back in, especially you won’t be able to put them back in if you work with the rear wheels hanging, we will give advice, almost always when replacing the suspension tie rods should be loaded, sometimes it should be heavily loaded, sometimes even the wheels will have to touch the ground just a little. You take all this into account and, in connection with these features, adjust the height and degree of loading of the rear suspension of the car.

Note! And by the way, so that the bolts can be easily removed in the future and the threads do not turn sour, we recommend that you lubricate them with solid oil before installation, and then in the future they will easily come loose, even if you don’t want to change the rods yourself after a while but take the car to a service station, then for lubricated bolts will only thank you, so take this into account and there will be much fewer problems with bolts!

Additional video clip: A detailed video clip that explains the process of replacing all torque rods on a classic car is attached just below:

Changing thrusts according to your mind

Before changing the jet rods on a VAZ 2107, find a suitable place. The work must be done in a pit or overpass. As a last resort, find a flat area, lift and secure the desired part of the car.

For work, prepare:

• required set of keys;
• metal brush;
• WD-40.

The algorithm for replacing jet rods is as follows:

1. Clean the joints of the reaction rods using a special brush. After treatment, be sure to spray the bolted joint with WD-40 and allow time to soak.

Note! The process of replacing rods is identical, so there is no point in describing how each rod changes separately.

2. It happens that you won’t be able to unscrew it the first time. Re-treat with Vedashka and wait a little more time.

For greater efficiency, you can take a wrench with a large “shoulder” and unscrew the nut (of course, if you work while lying under the car, then this option is unlikely to work). 3. As soon as the nut is level with the edge of the bolt, apply several blows with a hammer to dislodge the bolt from its “home” place, since it usually sticks strongly in the sleeve.

4. Using a wrench, unscrew the nut completely and remove the bolt; if it does not give in, use a drift.

5. If the rod was torn out alive, then you will have to remove the remains of the fastening. This can be done using a small mounting spatula.

6. Now move on to the second part of the fastening. Here you still have to unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber, pull out the spacer sleeve and move it to the side, this is done in order to gain access to the torque rod bolt

8. The nuts may be too tight—this is normal. This is explained by the fact that a self-locking nut is used for fastening. Its peculiarity is the presence of a nylon “side” along the edge, which makes the connection more dense.

9. Further - more difficult. The design feature is such that the bolt is installed on the gearbox side. As a result, hitting the bolt is not very convenient - to do this you need to unscrew everything unnecessary on the left side (remove the brake disc, remove the axle shaft, and so on).

Of course, doing such work is a serious investment of time and effort, so there is no point in doing such work. Try cleaning the connection with a brush, treating it with WD-40 and then try to unscrew photo 2.

If nothing works out again, then you can’t do without an angle grinder. Cut off the bolt head in the space between the silent block and the bracket. Perform a similar manipulation on the other side.

10. Using a mounting spatula, remove the rod from the bracket.

Please note that if the jet rod is cracked or broken, you should not weld it or try to restore it in any other way - this is dangerous.

It is better to install a new rod and no longer worry about possible failure of the unit.

What links are included in the rear suspension?

The Chevy Niva bridge is held in place using five parts. To prevent longitudinal and transverse displacement, four longitudinal rods (two each: front and rear) and one transverse rod are used. At the ends of the products there are eyes into which silent blocks are inserted to prevent knocking in the suspension. One end of the rod is attached to the bridge, the other to the car body.

The parts have the same diameter and differ only in length. The longest is the transverse thrust. The length of the elements ensures vertical mobility of the rear axle. Thanks to this, the silent blocks do not twist, even if the suspension moves by the full stroke of the shock absorber.

Reinforced rods

The appearance of cracks between the rod base and the lugs will shorten the service life of the parts.
This problem can even cause an accident - the car suddenly pulls to the side when the traction breaks. To avoid unpleasant surprises, special reinforced parts are installed in the rear suspension. They are made of alloy or cold-rolled steel and differ from conventional ones in the diamond-shaped section of the base and powerful welding seams that hold the lugs.

Reinforced rods differ from standard ones in the following characteristics:

• Reduced weight of parts.
• Improved paint coating that prevents corrosion of elements.
• High strength welded seams.
• Increased resistance to torsion, compression and tension.

Installation of reinforced rods is recommended for full use of the Chevrolet Niva off-road. They don't offer much benefit for city or highway driving. Under gentle operating conditions, the strength of standard rods is quite sufficient, so there is no point in overpaying for reinforced parts.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

Tie rods provide protection against swaying and loss of control on the road, during sharp turns and obstacles. Even earlier versions of the car had similar problems. But inside the cars there were only ordinary springs; no one knew anything about the system with rods.

It is for this reason that the vehicle caused many problems when driving. Only over time the suspension was modified. A system was installed with several long rods. This part carried the main load.

Classic VAZ 2107 cars and other models contain the following version of the torque rod kit:

1. Long.
2. Short.
3. A large transverse one, which also serves as the basis for the entire system.

Installation location - near the car axle located at the rear. The system is visible only from the inspection hole, where repair work is usually carried out if the reaction rods are replaced.

Which ones are better?

There are parts from several manufacturers on the market, among which the following options can be distinguished:

• Cross and Detal-Resurs are two budget brands that produce suspension parts for the Niva. Price - from 1600 rub. per set.
• Sitek - budget spare parts with rubber or polyurethane silent blocks. They are distinguished by their small wall thickness and low weight. Suitable for those whose route mainly runs on asphalt. Price - 2200 rub.
• Niva Urban - inexpensive high-quality spare parts for Niva Chevrolet. The manufacturer produces rods for the entire VAZ family. Price - 2600 rub.
• UG is another budget rod from a little-known company. Like Sitek, they are not intended for active off-road running. Price 3000 rub.
• SC is a more expensive model, characterized by a rectangular cross-section. Judging by the mass, the manufacturer did not spare the metal. The quality of the seam does not cause any complaints from car owners. Price - 3400 rub.
• Niva Extreme - reliable, durable suspension parts that are preferred by fans of extreme racing. The only drawback is the price, which is almost 5,000 rubles.

Note: the high price of Niva Extreme parts is due to their non-standard design. These are enhanced traction.