Replacing the rear axle axle bearing on a VAZ Classic (2101/2107) is a rather labor-intensive procedure that requires a lot of time. In general, if you do not have any experience in car repair, experts do not recommend changing the bearing on the axle shaft yourself.
In the service and repair manual for the VAZ 2101 car, the procedure for replacing the axle bearing is described quite dryly, and after reading it you’ll probably be able to change it at home and do it yourself.
Most instructions and manuals only talk about recommendations, for example: “replacing the axle bearing is carried out at a service station” or “it is not recommended to replace the bearing and lock ring yourself.”
Therefore, we will describe the whole essence in more detail in this article.
After looking at the instructions and assessing the complexity of the amount of work to replace the VAZ 2101 - VAZ 2107 axle bearing, you can already make a decision whether to repair all the houses or send it to specialists.
Signs of a faulty VAZ 2107 axle bearing
When operating the vehicle, the axle bearing itself may wear out or its seat may break. Any bearing malfunction is easily determined by a number of signs:
- the buzzing of the rear axle increasing with speed, which can turn into a creaking or crackling sound;
- rear wheel play (you can check it by jacking up the car and rocking the wheel with your hands);
- loss of balls when the separator is destroyed (in this case, the axle shaft may move out of its seat while moving);
- jamming of the rear axle when the wheels stop rotating (if a wheel jams at speed, this can cause a serious accident).
The design of the bearing allows for a long mileage of the part, but material defects or excessive loads while driving on bad roads can lead to rapid wear of the unit. In this case, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2107 axle bearing.
Toothed belt tensioner bearings
The bearings of the toothed belt tensioning mechanism are ball, angular contact, double-row, closed. There are 2 pieces installed on the car.
Names of bearings of the toothed belt tensioning mechanism:
- According to VAZ classification - 2105-1006124;
- According to the bearing plant classification - R70-6120.
Toothed belt tensioner bearing dimensions:
- External diameter D - 37 mm;
- Internal diameter d - 25 mm;
- Height h - 17 mm.
Replacing the VAZ 2107 axle bearing
To carry out the work, there is no need to lift the car on a lift or drive it into a viewing hole. Replacing a VAZ 2107 axle shaft or bearing is performed as follows:
- jack up, unscrew and remove the rear wheel;
- remove the brake drum;
- remove the brake pads using pliers to remove the springs;
- using a 17mm socket wrench, unscrew the axle shaft;
- remove the axle shaft from the seat (for this you need to use a wrench, inserting it between the rear part of the axle shaft and the brake cylinder and using it as a lever);
- remove the old axle bearing;
Design of the unit being repaired
The VAZ 2107 hub consists of the following elements:
1 – steering fist; 2 – hub seal; 3 – remote ring for the front wheel hub oil seal; 4.5 – hub bearing; 6 – washer 2101; 7 – nut M18x1.5 left; 8 – hub cap.
All parts are located inside the hub housing.
Useful tips for replacing the VAZ 2107 axle bearing
When repairing a VAZ 2107 axle shaft, you must adhere to the following tips and rules:
To avoid damaging the axle shaft when cutting off the old bearing with a grinder, it is necessary to saw only the outer ring and the cage. It is enough to make several cuts on the inner ring, and then split it with chisels.
The new bearing is driven onto the axle shaft using a hammer. If you hit the bearing directly, there is a possibility of it being distorted or destroyed. Therefore, the bearing must be filled using a piece of pipe whose internal diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the axle shaft.
It is unacceptable to heat the bearing before seating it on the axle shaft. A heated bearing enlarges and fits into place more easily, but this may result in “annealing” of the metal, worsening its physical properties. As a result of annealing, the ductility of the metal increases and the hardness of the metal decreases.
Replacing a VAZ 2107 axle bearing is a rather complicated task, but quite doable in a garage. The main thing is not to damage the surface of the axle shaft when removing and installing the bearing. When installing a new bearing, be careful when using a hammer, as the steel from which the bearing parts are made is very brittle. Otherwise, the procedure does not contain complex operations that require special qualifications and equipment.
The problem that will be discussed today is quite common on VAZ 2107 cars. This is the failure of the axle bearing. Replacing it at a car service center is very expensive, but it is possible to carry out this procedure yourself. We will talk about how to do this correctly in this article.
Bridge gearbox. Maintenance and repair
The reliability and service life of the central gearbox of the drive axle directly depends on the quality of its maintenance and repair.
Radial clearance adjustment
Periodic adjustment of the rear axle gearbox helps prevent increased wear of the teeth and promotes their uniform grinding. Increased radial clearance causes wear on the teeth and bearings of the drive gear shaft, and is adjusted using special washers placed under the front flange of the gearbox housing.
It is characteristic that adjusting the VAZ rear axle gearbox is no different from a similar operation for trucks. So, for example, the gearbox of the middle axle of a KAMAZ or MAZ is no different from the design of the rear axle gearbox and has interchangeable parts (except for the housing).
Lubricants
Adjustment, adjustment, but don’t forget about the working fluid, which is used to lubricate the working units of the axle gearbox.
The most widely used lubricants: domestic - TAD-17 or Nigrol, international classification - API (GL-1 - GL-5) or SAE (75 - 250). The increased viscosity that they retain at both low and high temperatures allows them to be used to compensate for fairly high loads that arise during torque conversion (up to 300 kg/mm2).
For optimal operation of the hypoid gear, it is necessary to maintain the recommended level of working fluid, since its decrease leads to premature wear of the teeth of the main pair. However, do not forget that exceeding it can cause harm; in a situation with a VAZ, squeeze out the rear axle gearbox oil seal.
Repair work or how to avoid mistakes
Repair of the VAZ rear axle gearbox is carried out in almost every garage cooperative, often without following the basic rules for its assembly and installation.
So, for example, the Niva rear axle gearbox and the Niva front axle gearbox must have the same gear ratio. Violation of this requirement will lead to uneven redistribution of torque, which can lead to the destruction of one of the main pairs. There are many known cases when, when repairing the front axle gearbox, unfortunate craftsmen contributed their own know-how.
The most common case is to replace the 21213 front axle gearbox with a faster VAZ 2107 rear axle gearbox. Take our word for it: doing this is more than unreasonable. Apart from the failure of the front and rear axle gearboxes, you will receive nothing, and the cost of spare parts is unlikely to be reimbursed to you.
But passenger cars and even VAZs are fine, but what will you do if the rear axle gearbox of a BMW or an equally expensive Toyota or Mercedes is damaged? In order not to tempt fate and not test the strength of your car, the best option is to turn to professionals.
Conceptual service is the key to success
Where is the best place to repair an axle gearbox? This question interests all owners of rear-wheel drive cars, and not only. A conceptual service center can provide high-quality maintenance, repair or replacement of the rear axle gearbox.
When repairing a Mercedes rear axle gearbox, professionals will not look at a book, since they know all the tolerances and radial clearances, as they say: “by heart.” Gazelle rear axle gearbox, KAMAZ rear axle gearbox, MAZ rear axle gearbox, UAZ rear axle gearbox, ZIL 130 rear axle gearbox, GAZ 53 rear axle gearbox, and more common: GAZ 3110 rear axle gearbox, as well as VAZ and Niva.
The schematic diagram of the rear axle gearbox is identical for most domestic and foreign cars. Therefore, if the workman knows perfectly what radial clearance, tolerance or contact patch is. And he also has at his disposal professional tools and technical equipment, as well as a drawing of the rear axle gearbox, then adjusting or repairing it will not be difficult for him.
By contacting the conceptual service center, you receive a full range of services, including the opportunity to buy a VAZ rear axle gearbox at a significant discount. Having weighed all the pros and cons, we come to the only correct conclusion: Conceptual service - no problems and high guarantees of the quality of the work performed.
Purpose of the rear axle bearing
The axle shaft is the most important part of the drive (in this case, rear) axle of the VAZ 2107. The axle shaft itself rarely fails, but the bearing in which it is attached is the weak point of this design . The purpose of the part is simple: to ensure smooth and uniform rotation of the axle shaft in the rear axle while the car is moving. This part is located inside the bridge, immediately behind the brake drum. To see and change it, you will have to remove the axle shaft, remove the drum and brake pads from it. It is impossible to get to the bearing in any other way.
VAZ 2107 axle shaft bearing with retaining ring
Bearing Directory
home
When there was a shortage of auto parts for foreign cars, auto specialists looked for a replacement among similar products only from a Russian manufacturer.
They do the same today, because... The cost of imported bearings and seals is very high. It also happens that you have to wait a long time for this part, and even then more than a month. Or even the car was discontinued from production altogether. This is where the Russian spare part comes in – the bearing. In this table I want to show the bearing sizes. This directory will help you find the right analogue for your size. Follow one rule when selecting a bearing - the quality of our bearing must match the quality of a foreign one. Otherwise you will have to change the bearing every month.
| SEALS | ||||
| Dimensions, mm | Applicability, make, model of machine | Installation location | ||
| 16 | 8 | 7 | M. "Karpaty", "Delta" | Clutch lever |
| 25,1 | 12 | 7 | M. "Ural" | Pedal and gearshift lever |
| 26 | 13 | 8 | ZIL-4314 | Steering shaft |
| 30 | 15 | 7 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Camshaft |
| 35 | 15 | 7 | M. "Karpaty", "Delta" | Crankshaft |
| 30 | 16 | 7 | VAZ-2108, "Oka" | Gear selector rod |
| 30 | 16 | 7 | M. "Dnepr" | Gearbox shift pedal |
| 30 | 17 | 7,5 | M. IZH-P, IZH-Yu | Crankshaft right |
| 47 | 17 | 10 | M. "Voskhod" | Crankshaft right |
| 34,8 | 18 | 9 | Outboard motor "Neptune" | — |
| 40 | 18,5 | 8 | "Oka" | Gearbox input shaft |
| 35 | 19 | 7 | M. "Minsk" | Wheel hubs |
| 37 | 19,3 | 10 | VAZ-2101…-2107.-2121 | Steering shaft |
| 32 | 20 | 6 | M. "Voskhod" | Kickstarter shaft |
| 32 | 20 | 7 | "Gazelle" | Steering shaft |
| 30 | 20 | 8,5 | M. "Dnepr" | Kickstarter shaft |
| 35 | 20 | 10 | "Volga", GAZ-3307 | Steering shaft |
| 40 | 20 | 10 | M. "Ural" | Kickstarter shaft |
| Motorized stroller SZD | Right crankshaft and fan | |||
| 32 | 21 | 7 | M. "Karpaty", "Delta" | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 34,5 | 22 | 6 | KamAZ | Angular gearbox RU |
| ZIL | Screw RU | |||
| UAZ | Worm shaft | |||
| 35 | 23 | 6 | ZAZ, LuAZ, Moskvich-412 | Steering shaft, bipod shaft |
| 36,5 | 23 | 6,5 | M. IZH-P, IZH-Yu | Wheel hubs, kickstarter shaft IZH-P |
| 40 | 24 | 7 | "Tavria" | Gearbox input shaft |
| 42 | 24 | 7 | AZLK-2141 | Gearbox input shaft |
| 45 | 24 | 10 | ZAZ, LuAZ | Gearbox input shaft |
| 46 | 24 | 11 | ZIL-4314, KamAZ | Power steering pump |
| 46 | 24 | 13,5 | ZIL-4314 | Compressor |
| 38 | 25 | 8 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Wheel hubs |
| 42 | 25 | 10 | LuAZ | Half shafts |
| M. “Tula”, “Ant” | Wheel hubs | |||
| 45 | 25 | 8 | VAZ-2108 | Gearbox input shaft |
| 52 | 25 | 6,5 | M. IZH-Yu | Intermediate crankshaft |
| 52 | 25 | 10 | M. IZH-Yu | Left crankshaft |
| 52 | 25 | 20 | M. IZH-P | Left crankshaft |
| 62 | 25 | 8 | M. YAVA-638 | Left crankshaft |
| 38 | 26 | 7 | ZAZ-968 | Half shaft |
| 47 | 26 | 10 | M. "Voskhod" | Wheel hubs |
| 40,25 | 27 | 7 | M. "Voskhod" | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 42 | 28 | 7 | VAZ-2108, "0ka" | Front crankshaft; camshaft |
| 47 | 28 | 8 | VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121 | Gearbox input shaft |
| 43 | 28,6 | 10 | VAZ-2101…-2107.-2121 | Bipod shaft |
| 45 | 30 | 8 | VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121 | Rear axle shaft |
| 45 | 30 | 7 | "Tavria" | Front crankshaft |
| 47 | 30 | 10 | ZAZ (30 hp unit) | Clutch housing |
| 50 | 30 | 9 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Gearbox input shaft |
| 52 | 30 | 8 | M. YAVA-638 | Crankshaft right |
| 52 | 30 | 10 | M. YAVA-638 | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 45,1 | 32 | 8 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Gearbox input shaft |
| 50,5 | 32 | 12 | UAZ | Front joint knuckle bridge |
| 44 | 33 | 10 | "Volga", UAZ | Bipod shaft |
| 49,25 | 33,4 | 9 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Gearbox extension, internal |
| 49,25 | 33,4 | 9,5 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Gearbox extension, outer |
| 48 | 34 | 10 | GAZ-3307 | Bipod shaft |
| 49,4 | 34 | 8 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Cardan fork |
| Motorized stroller SZD | Drive shaft, rear hub | |||
| 48 | 35 | 7 | "Volga", "Gazelle" | Primary shaft 5-speed KP |
| 52 | 35 | 9 | M. IZH, SZD | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 57 | 35 | 9 | VAZ-2108, "Oka" | Drive axle shafts |
| 68 | 35,8 | 12 | VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121 | GP shank flange |
| 68 | 35,8 | 12 | "Niva" (reverse direction of rotation) | Front gearbox and gearbox flanges |
| 48 | 36,7 | 8 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 52 | 38 | 7 | "Tavria", "Oka" | Rear hubs |
| 56 | 38 | 10 | "Volga", "Gazelle" | Gearbox extension |
| 56 | 40 | 7 | VAZ-2101…-2107 | Front hubs |
| 58 | 40 | 9 | ZAZ-968 | Front hubs |
| 60 | 40 | 10 | "Tavria" | Drive axle shafts |
| 56 | 41 | 9 | AZLK-2141 | Actuator flanges |
| 55,7 | 41,2 | 9 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Rear axle shaft |
| Motorized stroller SZD | Front hub | |||
| 55,7 | 42 | 10 | "Moskvich-408", -2138 | Front crankshaft |
| 58 | 42 | 10 | ZIL-4314 | Bipod shaft |
| 62 | 42 | 10 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Front crankshaft |
| 62 | 42 | 10 | LuAZ, ZAZ, SZD | Rear hubs (LuAZ-all) |
| 62 | 42 | 10 | ZIL-4314 | Gearbox input shaft |
| 68 | 42 | 10 | UAZ | GP and RK shank flanges |
| 75 | 42 | 10 | "Volga", "Gazelle" | GP shank flange |
| 65 | 43 | 8 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Front hubs |
| 70 | 50 | 10 | M. "Ural" | Crankshaft |
| 76 | 50 | 9,5 | GAZ-3307 | Gearbox secondary shaft |
| 80 | 50 | 10 | "Gazelle" | Front hubs |
| 72 | 52 | 10 | "Volga" | Axle shafts and hubs |
| 82 | 54 | 10 | GAZ-3307 | GP shank flange |
| 70 | 55 | 8 | "Volga", "Gazelle" (16-valve ENGINE) | Front crankshaft |
| 80 | 55 | 10 | "Volga", UAZ, GAZ | Front crankshaft |
| 76 | 55,3 | 8 | KamAZ | Bipod shaft |
| 73,15 | 56 | 10 | "Niva" | Front hubs |
| 82 | 56 | 10 | ZAZ(Zol.s.) | Front and rear crankshaft. |
| 80 | 60 | 10 | KamAZ | — |
| 85 | 60 | 10 | UAZ | Wheel hubs |
| 85 | 60 | 12 | M. "Dnepr" | Crankshaft |
| 90 | 64 | 10 | GAZ-3307 | Front hub |
| "Gazelle" | Rear hub | |||
| 90 | 65 | 10 | ZAZ-968, LuAZ | Crankshaft rear, front |
| 90 | 65 | 10 | UAZ-469,-3151 | Wheel hubs |
| 90 | 70 | 10 | VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Oka”, “Tavria” | Rear crankshaft |
| 92 | 70 | 16 | KamAZ | Shaft flanges KP, RK and GP |
| 100 | 76 | 11 | "Moskvich-408", -2138 | Rear crankshaft |
| 100 | 80 | 10 | VAZ-2108 and 16-valve engine. "Volga", "Gazelle" | Rear crankshaft |
| 105 | 82 | 10 | "Moskvich-412", IZH | Rear crankshaft |
| SINGLE ROW RADIAL BALL BEARINGS | |||||
| Dimensions, mm | Series | Applicability, machine type, brand, model | Installation location | ||
| D | d | B | |||
| 55 | 30 | 13 | 106 | ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969 | Sun |
| 106 | KamAZ | injection pump | |||
| 32 | 12 | 10 | 201 | VAZ, Oka, Tavria | G |
| 201 | KamAZ, KrAZ | injection pump | |||
| 201 | M. "Minsk" | KP | |||
| M. "Karpaty", "Riga" | PS, ZS | ||||
| LM. "Breeze" | gearbox | ||||
| 35 | 15 | 11 | 202 | "Tavria" ZAZ-1102 | tension roller |
| 202 | KrAZ, MAZ, BelAZ | regulation, rpm | |||
| 202 | M. "Minsk" | PS, ZS | |||
| M. “Sunrise”, “Tula”, “Ant” | KP | ||||
| 42 | 17 | 12 | 203 | "Volga", UAZ, GAZ-51, -53, GAZ-3307 | PV |
| 203 | KrAZ, MAZ | VN | |||
| M. "Voskhod", "Tula" | KP | ||||
| "Ant", "Minsk", IZH | |||||
| M. IZH | PS, ZS | ||||
| LM. "Breeze" | gearbox | ||||
| 52 | 25 | 15 | 205 | "Oka" | KP |
| 205 | "Oka" | balancer shafts | |||
| VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121 | KP | ||||
| 205 | LuAZ | PP | |||
| KamAZ | KP,RM | ||||
| M. "Java", "Tula" | ass star | ||||
| M.IZH | crankshaft | ||||
| 205 | M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | Gearbox, camshaft | |||
| Motorized stroller SZD | ZS | ||||
| LM. "Vortex" | — | ||||
| KrAZ, MAZ | Injection pump, ventilator | ||||
| 205 | ZIL-4314, -130, 131 | PV | |||
| 62 | 30 | 16 | 206 | "Moskvich-403", -412, -2140, IZH | KP |
| LiAZ, LAZ | vent, vent-r | ||||
| 206 | "Gazelle" | PC | |||
| 206 | MAZ-500 | RK | |||
| LuAZ | drive shaft | ||||
| 206 | M. "Java" | crankshaft | |||
| 206 | M. "Dnepr" | KR | |||
| 72 | 35 | 17 | 207 | "Tavria" ZAZ-1102 | KD |
| 207 | KamAZ | Injection pump, pump, compressor | |||
| ZIL, LIAZ, LAZ, KrAZ, MAZ | compressor | ||||
| ZIL-MMZ, GAZ-66 | KO | ||||
| M. "Ant", motorized stroller SZD | gearbox | ||||
| 207 | M. "Ural" | crankshaft | |||
| M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | main gear | ||||
| UAZ-3151 (469) | KR | ||||
| 80 | 40 | 18 | 208 | UAZ | KP |
| 208 | GAZ-66, "Ural-4320" | KO | |||
| "Ural-375", -4320 | winch | ||||
| 85 | 45 | 19 | 209 | "Niva" | RK |
| 209 | GAZ-53,-66,-3307 | KP | |||
| ZIL-MMZ | KO | ||||
| M. "Dnepr" | crankshaft | ||||
| 37 | 12 | 12 | 301 | ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969 | balancer .shaft |
| KrAZ | speed control | ||||
| 42 | 15 | 13 | 302 | VAZ, Oka, Tavria | G |
| 302 | M. "Java" | PS, ZS | |||
| 52 | 20 | 15 | 304 | LuAZ | drive shaft |
| M. IZH, “Tula”, “Ant” | crankshaft | ||||
| 304 | KrAZ | fan pulley | |||
| M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | KP | ||||
| Motorized stroller | PS and ventil-r | ||||
| 62 | 25 | 17 | 305 | VAZ-2108, ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969 | KP |
| "Volga", "Gazelle" | 5-speed KP | ||||
| 305 | "Niva" | RK | |||
| "Tavria" | KP | ||||
| LiAZ, LAZ | G | ||||
| KamAZ | hydraulic coupling, reinforced steering wheel, fuel injection pump VN | ||||
| 305 | KrAZ, MAZ | Injection pump and fan pulley | |||
| 305 | M. "Java" | crankshaft | |||
| LM. "Whirlwind", "Neptune" | — | ||||
| 305 | UAZ | KP | |||
| Motorized stroller SZD | ZS | ||||
| 72 | 30 | 19 | 306 | VAZ-2101…-2107,-2121 | KP |
| "Niva" | KP, RK, PP | ||||
| UAZ | KP, RK | ||||
| 306 | "Moskvich-412", -2140, IZH-412 | KP | |||
| M. "Java" | crankshaft | ||||
| GAZ-66 | KO | ||||
| 306 | VAZ-2101…-2107, “M.-412”, -2140 | PZ | |||
| 80 | 35 | 21 | 307 | "Volga" GAZ-31029, "Gazelle" | 5-speed KP |
| GAZ-52,-53,-66 | KP | ||||
| GAZ-66 | RK | ||||
| 307 | UAZ | RK | |||
| ZIL, "Ural-4320" | KO | ||||
| 90 | 40 | 23 | 308 | "Volga" GAZ-24 | PZ |
| 308 | "Volga" GAZ-31029, "Chaika" | PZ | |||
| KrAZ | RK | ||||
| 308 | ZIL-130,-131,-4314 | KP | |||
| 35 | 15 | 14 | 502 | VAZ-2101…-2107, 2121, M-2141 | PV |
| "Moskvich", "Volga", UAZ | |||||
| IZH, GAZ, ZIL | G | ||||
| 40 | 17 | 16 | 503 | ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969 | G |
| 52 | 25 | 18 | 505 | VAZ-2101…-2107* | PC |
| 80 | 40 | 23 | 508 | "Niva" | PZ |
| GAZ-52 (PAZ, KAvZ based on GAZ-52) | PC winch | ||||
| 47 | 17 | 19 | 603 | M-412, -2140, IZH-412 | VN |
| "Volga", UAZ, "Moskvich", | |||||
| GAZ, IZH, ZIL, KAMAZ | G | ||||
| 40 | 17 | 14 | 703 | GAZ-24, UAZ, GAZ-52, -53, -66, ZIL-130, -4314, LiAZ | VN |
| 75 | 30 | 19 | 706 | VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Volga”, “Gazelle” | KP |
| 47 | 17 | 15,5 | 803 | GAZ-24, UAZ, GAZ-52, -53, -66, ZIL-130, -4314, LiAZ | VN |
| 62 | 25 | 17 | 805 | M-2141, "Tavria" | KP |
| Legend: VN - water pump; G - generator; ZS - rear hub; KD - differential box; KO - power take-off; Gearbox - gearbox; KR - wheel reducer; LM - outboard motor; M - motorcycle, moped; PV - input shaft; RZ - rear axle shaft; PC - cardan outboard bearing; PP - front axle shaft; PS - front hub; RK - transfer case; RKL - steering column; RM - steering mechanism; X - shank (in the main pair). | |||||
| SINGLE ROW TAPED ROLLER BEARINGS | |||||
| Dimensions, mm | Series | Applicability, machine type, brand, model | Installation location | ||
| D | d | B | |||
| 68 | 40 | 13 | 105 | "Niva" | PS |
| M-2141 | KD | ||||
| 47 | 20 | 15,5 | 204 | "Tavria" ZAZ-1102 | ZS |
| 204 | KamAZ, KrAZ, MAZ, BelAZ | injection pump | |||
| 204 | ZAZ-968 | PS | |||
| M. "Ural", "Dnepr" | PS, ZS | ||||
| GROOVE | ventilation shaft | ||||
| 52 | 25 | 16,5 | 205 | "Tavria" ZAZ-1102 | ZS |
| 205 | "Oka", M. "Ant" | ZS | |||
| 62 | 30 | 17,5 | 206 | "Moskvich-408", -412, -2140, IZH-412 | PS |
| 206 | LuAZ | KR | |||
| LiAZ | RM | ||||
| 72 | 35 | 18,5 | 207 | VAZ-2108, M-412, -2140, IZH | KD |
| 207 | LuAZ | KR | |||
| LiAZ | RM | ||||
| 62 | 25 | 18,5 | 305 | "Moskvich-403", -412, -2140, Izh-412 | X |
| 305 | “Volga”, “Gazelle”, “Chaika”, UAZ-451 | PS | |||
| 72 | 30 | 21 | 306 | LuAZ | X |
| 306 | KrAZ | RM | |||
| 80 | 35 | 23 | 307 | "Gazelle", "Chaika".UAZ-451 | PS |
| KrAZ | RM | ||||
| 85 | 45 | 25 | 509 | UAZ | PS, ZS |
| 509 | "Gazelle" | ZS | |||
| 90 | 50 | 25 | 510 | "Gazelle" | ZS |
| 510 | “Volga”, “Gazelle”, “Chaika”, ZIL-117, UAZ | KD | |||
| 72 | 30 | 29 | 606 | “Moskvich-403″…-412, -2140, IZH-412 | X |
| 606 | "Volga", "Gazelle", UAZ-3151 | X | |||
| 606 | GAZ-52, -53, -3307, ZIL-117 | PS | |||
| 80 | 35 | 33 | 607 | "Volga", "Gazelle", UAZ-3151 | X |
| 62 | 33 | 16,5 | 707 | VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, “Oka” | KD |
| 42,25 | 19,05 | 16,63 | 804 | VAZ-2101…-2107 | PS |
| "Oka" | ZS | ||||
| BEARINGS OF DIFFERENT TYPES | |||||
| Dimensions, mm | Series | Applicability, machine type, brand, model | Installation location | ||
| D | d | B | |||
| 52 | 25 | 15 | 205 | VAZ-2108, Oka, Tavria | KP |
| VAZ-2107,-21065,-21213 | 5-speed KP | ||||
| 37 | 25 | 7 | 805 | VAZ-2108, Oka, Gazelle, M-2141 | RKL |
| 36,5 | 23,5 | 14 | 905 | "Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika", ZIL-117 | |
| GAZ-51, -52, -53, -66, -3307, ZIL-131 | RKL | ||||
| 49,225 | 32,02 | 12,4 | 907 | "Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika" | RM |
| 58 | 33,02 | 18 | 907 | "Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Chaika" | RM |
| 52 | 25 | 15 | 205 | "Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, | |
| GAZ-51, -52, -53, -66, -3307, ZIL-131 | RM | ||||
| 51 | 25,1 | 15,875 | 905 | "Gazelle", GAZ-21, UAZ-451, "Chaika" | king pin support |
| 52 | 2 | 14 | 702 | VAZ-2108, "Tavria" | strut support, front, suspension |
| 35 | 17,7 | 8 | 903 | VAZ-210 8, "Oka" | RM |
| 17,46 | 11,11 | 13 | 901 | VAZ-2108, "Oka" | RM |
| 44,47 | 28,07 | 9,6 | 906 | “Moskvich-403″…-412, -2140, IZH-412, ZAZ-965, -968, LuAZ-969 | RM |
| 30 | 16 | 25 | 702 | "Volga", UAZ, RAF, ErAZ, "Gazelle", | crosses |
| "Chaika", ZIL-117, ZAZ-968, LuAZ-969 | cardans | ||||
| 30 | 16 | 39 | 902 | VAZ-2101…-2107, -2121, M-2141 (VAZ), GAZ-2410, -31029 | |
| 30 | 16 | 39(92) | 802 | "Gazelle", VAZ-2108, "Oka", "Tavria" | VM |
| 55 | 31 | 13 | 806 | VAZ-2108, Oka, Tavria | clutch release |
| 72 | 37 | 37 | 908 | "Moskvich-2141" | PS |
| 64 | 34 | 37 | 907 | "Moskvich-2141" | ZS |
| 907 | VAZ-2108, "Tavria" | PS | |||
| 60 | 30 | 37 | 706 | VAZ-2108 | ZS |
| 706 | "Oka" | PS | |||
| Legend: RK - transfer case; RKL - steering column; VN - water pump; G - generator; KD - differential box; KO - power take-off; RM - steering mechanism; Gearbox - gearbox; KR - wheel reducer; M - motorcycle, moped; LM - outboard motor; PV - input shaft; RZ - rear axle shaft; PC - cardan outboard bearing; PP - front axle shaft; ZS - rear hub; X - shank (in the main pair); PS - front hub. | |||||
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Signs of malfunction on the VAZ 2107
If the bearing itself fails or its seat breaks, the car owner will definitely notice this. We list a number of the main signs of failure of this part:
- While driving, a uniform low hum appears in the area of the rear axle, which over time can turn into a loud creaking or crackling sound. And the faster the car goes, the louder the noise becomes.
- A strong play appears on one of the rear wheels (to check this, just jack up the rear axle of the car and pull the wheel with your hands away from you and towards you).
- Balls fall out of the bearing (this means that the separator in which these balls are located has completely collapsed).
- Finally, the rear axle may simply jam. The drive wheels will stop rotating, and this can happen while driving (which may well cause an accident).
Important Notes
A few points:
- When seating the clips using the impact method, it is necessary to carefully orient the plane of the spacer, avoiding accidental slipping;
- excessive application of the lubricant promises squeezing out the oil seal;
- Old bearing housings are suitable as a mandrel.
After adjusting the gap, you need to drive the car and listen to the bearing. If noise is noticeable or the wheel gets hot, you need to unscrew the nut, correct the play and tighten a new one.
Sequencing
- The car is jacked up, and the wheel is removed using socket wrenches, behind which there is a worn bearing.
- The brake disc and pads are removed.
- Now you need to unscrew the axle shaft itself with a 17 socket wrench.
The axle shaft is unscrewed with a 17 socket wrench
To remove it from its seat, you can use a crank. It should be inserted between the brake cylinder and the rear of the axle and used as a lever to push the axle out.
Pushing out the axle shaft using a crank
Now you need to remove the bearing from the axle shaft. Often it turns out to be tightly welded to it, so you have to literally cut it off with a grinder. This must be done by first clamping the axle shaft in a vice.
The old bearing is cut off with a grinder
Once the old bearing is removed, the axle must be thoroughly wiped with a rag. And then a new part and a retaining ring are put on the axle shaft.
Installing a new axle bearing
Now, using a medium-sized flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the worn oil seal from the seat.
The old oil seal is removed with a screwdriver
- As soon as it is removed, a new oil seal is installed in its place (it is most convenient to drive it into the seat with a 32 socket head).
- The axle shaft with a new bearing is installed back into the seat and the entire assembly is reassembled.
Video: How to change it yourself
Replacing the Chevrolet Niva front axle oil seal.
- First you need to remove one or two drives, depending on where replacement is needed.
- After this you need to remove the locking ring
- Using a hammer, knock out the bearing. If you have problems with removal, you can use WD-40 lubricant
- The cover is removed, the old oil seal is knocked out using a pipe.
- The installation site is lubricated and a new O-ring is installed.
- the unit is reassembled.
Hello! Most Chevy owners service the unpretentious units of this popular car themselves. During intensive use, you often have to change consumables, especially in the chassis. I will tell you about this type of service, such as replacing the front axle oil seal of a NIVA Chevrolet. The replacement operation is carried out when oil leaks from the axle housing. A clogged breather causes lubricant to squeeze out.
If grease drips immediately after stopping (while the gearbox is hot), and then the flow stops, the breather must be cleaned. When it is clogged with dirt, the heated air is not released outside during movement. Under pressure, the working fluid of the gearbox will be squeezed out even through serviceable gaskets and seals.
If the breather is in order, but oil still leaks, you will have to replace damaged cover gaskets or O-rings. There are three of them in the front axle, and they are different:
The oil seal that seals the drive gear axis is located at the rear of the axle, at the location where the front propeller shaft is attached. Oil seals for the right and left drive (inner axle joint).
ATTENTION! The left and right oil seals are not the same; they have a direction of rotation. This must be taken into account when purchasing
The direction of rotation of the wheel when moving forward is indicated by the arrow. If the oil is installed incorrectly, the removable notches will drive the lubricant out.
To understand the device, here is the layout of the front axle:
The oil seal is replaced without removing the front axle. If the work is carried out independently, and it is not possible to use a lift, the car is placed on an inspection hole or overpass. We tighten the hand brake and install supports under the rear wheels. Gearbox and transfer case levers in the “Neutral” position. The front part is lifted with a jack and fixed on stops.
We clean the bridge from dirt and leaks of technical fluids. Unscrew the crankcase drain plug and drain the oil from the gearbox. Screw the plug into place.
- Socket wrenches 13, 17 and 24 Hexagon 12 Mounting blade (mount) Wooden block; Hammer; Flat screwdriver; Universal puller, two or three legs; Retaining ring remover; A piece of pipe according to the diameter of the seals; Flushing fluid (kerosene, Carbcleaner, Vince, Laurel); Brush with stiff bristles; Lint-free rags.
- We disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox by unscrewing the bolts securing it to the flange.
- We separate the internal CV joint housings from the drive gears.
- Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment at which the drive gear begins to rotate freely. To do this, turn the flange mounting nut until the gear begins to rotate. We fix the magnitude of the moment.
- We tighten the bolts into two adjacent flange holes (for fixation).
- We insert a mounting spade between the bolts, hold the flange from turning and unscrew the fastening nut.
- Remove the washer and flange from the spline joint. If it is impossible to remove it by hand, use a universal puller.
7. Remove the oil seal using a flat-head screwdriver. 8. Rinse and thoroughly wipe the replacement area. 9. Replacement of the front axle drive gear oil seal is carried out only with original Chevrolet spare parts. To facilitate pressing, any grease (litol, grease) is applied to the sealing ring. 10. Press in the ring using a pipe of suitable diameter. 11. Place the flange on the spline connection and put on the washer. 12. Tighten the nut to the torque determined when unscrewing. 13. Fasten the cardan shaft.
- We remove both drives (or the one that requires replacement)
- Remove the retaining ring and spring washer;
- Using a hammer, carefully knock down the bearing. If removal is difficult, treat with a penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40.
- Remove the bearing cap with the old seal.
- Using a pipe, knock the oil seal out of the cover;
- Lubricate the new spare part with any grease and press the o-ring into the cover.
7. We assemble the unit. We fill the gearbox with oil in accordance with the maintenance instructions, do a test drive, and check for oil leaks.
Important points
The inner ring of the bearing is cut off with a chisel
Step-by-step instruction
- Loosen the wheel bolts, jack up and remove the wheel.
- Remove the brake drum.
Using pliers, remove the “soldiers” and remove the tension springs of the pads.
Remove the rear brake pads and set them aside.
Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the axle shaft. Head nuts for seventeen.
Push the hub towards you using the mounting lever and remove the axle shaft. If the axle shaft cannot be removed, use a three-legged puller.
Use a grinder to cut the retaining ring. It is better to make the cut a little not completely and cut through the remaining rings with a chisel. In order not to damage the axle shaft, make the cut very carefully.
Use a chisel or drift to knock the bearing out of its seat on the axle shaft. In our case, only the bearing race remained.
Place the bearing on the drive and use a pipe and a hammer to press it into place. As a rule, seating a bearing is quite easy.
- The bearing retaining ring is hot pressed. Take the ring and secure it to a piece of wire. Next, light the gas burner and heat the ring almost to red.
- Have a helper hold the axle shaft upright and keep the pipe and hammer handy. Next, use pliers to put the hot ring on the drive, and then, without hesitation, an assistant puts it in place using a pipe and a hammer.
Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the oil seal from its seat.Using a piece of pipe along the outer diameter of the oil seal, press it into place.
Install the rubber O-ring.
- Fit the fastening nuts and tighten them in a cross pattern with a force of 50 Nm.
- Install the brake pads, drum and wheel.
Symptoms of a problem
Cases of axle shaft failure are extremely rare, unlike bearings. The main sign of a faulty rear axle bearing is a hum in the area of the rear axle wheel. Moreover, its intensity will depend on the speed of movement. If there is significant wear, a squeaking or grinding noise will be heard. Sometimes the bearing simply jams and it begins to rotate in the seat, and this leads to wear and tear and expensive repairs. The reason for its failure can be not only significant and frequent loads, but also simply a significant service life. Bearing diagnostics
Coolant pump bearings
Coolant pump bearings are ball, radial, double row, sealed.
Coolant pump bearing designation:
- According to VAZ classification - 2101-1307027 or 2101-1307027-0];
- According to the bearing plant classification - 6-330902С17 or 6-330902 EC 17.
Toothed belt tensioner bearing dimensions:
- External diameter (D) - 30 mm;
- Internal diameter (d) - 16 mm;
- Height (width) (B) - 115 mm.
- The width of the outer race (C) is 39 mm.
Replacing the rear wheel bearing
Before starting work, we carry out standard actions to secure it, jack up the car and remove the wheel. Next: 1. remove the brake disc; 2. through the holes of the axle shaft, unscrew its fastenings with a 17 socket head; 3. remove the axle shaft by prying it with a pry bar; 4. cut the locking ring; 5. through the holes that unscrewed the axle shaft, we knock down the bearing;
Don't remove the pads, I removed them to replace them.
We take out the oil seal and clean the seat
Next comes the assembly in reverse order: • install the oil seal; • stuff the bearing onto the axle shaft; • install the locking ring; • install the axle shaft in place.Spare parts sizes
List of suitable spare parts with nominal size:
| Manufacturer | Cat. number | Dimensions | price, rub. | |
| 1 | OberKraft | 103504 | 80*90*70 | 660 rub. |
| 2 | AVTOVAZ OJSC | 21010-3101800-86 | 700 rub. | |
| 3 | TD EPK LLC | 2101-185 | 720 rub. | |
| 4 | RUMELIA APS GROUP | ES737630 | 660 rub. | |
| 5 | PKF Niagara LLC | RG2101-3101800 | 330 rub. |
Installation of parts of other configurations is unacceptable by design.
Steering gear worm bearings
Bearing of the upper support of the steering gear worm
Bearing of the upper support of the steering gear worm, ball, angular contact
Designation of the upper support of the steering gear worm:
- According to VAZ classification - 2101-3401122 or 2101-3401129;
- According to the bearing plant classification - 996905-01 or 996805-97.
Dimensions of the upper support of the steering gear worm:
- External diameter (D) - 47 mm;
- Internal diameter (d) - 28 mm;
- Height (width) (B) - 13.40 mm.
Steering worm lower bearing (lower support)
Bearing of the lower support of the steering gear worm, ball, angular contact
Designation of the lower support of the steering gear worm:
- According to VAZ classification - 2101-3401123 or 2101-3401129;
- According to the bearing plant classification - 996905-01 or 996805-97.
Dimensions of the lower support of the steering gear worm:
- External diameter (D) - 50 mm;
- Internal diameter (d) - 28 mm;
- Height (width) (B) - 20.20 mm.
