Errors 1302, 1303 and 0363 on LADA (VAZ) Granta

Errors P1301 (P1302, P1303, P1304) Lada Granta, Kalina 2

Code P1301 (P1302, P1303, P1304) Cylinder 1 (2, 3, 4), misfire detected, critical for the converter

Codes P0363, P1301 (P1302, P1303, P1304) are entered if: with the engine running - - the crankshaft rotation unevenness measured by the controller exceeds the threshold; — there is no fault code P0336.

The fault indicator starts flashing immediately after a permanent fault occurs. In order to protect the catalytic converter, the fuel supply to those cylinders in which misfires have been recorded may be turned off. Description of checks

1 Check whether misfires are detected at the time of the request. 2 Check the ignition system. 3 Check the fuel supply system. 4 Perform an intake system check. 5 Perform a compression test. Additional checks If the misfires are intermittent, it is necessary to check: - the reliability of the grounding terminals of the ignition system harness; — mechanical damage to the engine (low compression, damage to pistons, camshaft, valves, etc.); — the intake system for the absence of air leaks (check the intake system after the mass air flow sensor for the absence of air leaks, make sure that the vacuum hoses are connected securely and are not damaged); — malfunction of fuel supply system elements (see map A6); — malfunction of the ignition system elements (see map A3); DPKV fastening;

ignition system diagram for Lada Granta, Kalina 2

injector diagram for Lada Granta, Kalina 2

An example of eliminating errors P1301 from a driver:

Source

Error P0504

This malfunction is associated with an incorrect signal from the brake pedal switches. Most often, the cause of such a failure is a malfunction of the brake pedal position sensor, lack of proper adjustment, or a broken spring that is installed in this device. Procedure for checking and troubleshooting:

We remove the sensor;
Move the rod lock to the right position using a screwdriver;
We use a multimeter with an ohmmeter function;
On Largus, Vesta and Xray contacts 3-4 should be closed and have a resistance close to zero. Contacts 1-2 are open and their resistance should tend to infinity.
When you press the rod on the contacts 3-4 the circuit opens, and 1-2 short circuit If this is not the case, then the sensor must be replaced.
On Priora, Kalina, Granta, Niva contacts 1-4 should be closed, and 2-3 open. When you press the rod, the situation is the opposite.
Before reinstalling the sensor, move the rod to the left position.

Sensor locations on video:

Adjusting the brake pedal position sensor:

Any driver can carry out this procedure at home without a trip to a service station. The part has two nuts in its design. One of them is on top, and the second is on the bottom. The upper nut adjusts the pressure of the rod. First you need to release the lower one, and then tighten the upper one, thereby changing the gap of the element. You need to ensure that the rod is fully pressed and not partially pressed. After this, start the car and let it run for about 10 minutes to check if the error appears.

VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 11:06 am

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 2:19 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by YurSanych » 12/10/2012, 2:39 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 2:41 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by YurSanych » 12/10/2012, 2:52 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 3:07 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by YurSanych » 12/10/2012, 3:18 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by Vijar » 12/10/2012, 3:21 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 3:37 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by ogerc » 12/10/2012, 3:39 pm

Re: VAZ 2115 errors 0363 and 1302

Post by putnik51 » 12/10/2012, 3:49 pm

P0363 - Misfire detected. Fuel supply to idle cylinders is turned off. P1302 - Misfire is critical for the catalyst in the 2nd cylinder.

The errors themselves indicate a problem P1302 - in the second cylinder, and this is a lack of spark, or a malfunctioning injector, or a lack of compression. The ECU doesn't care what exactly it is, it sees this mess and turns off the injector of the problem cylinder, setting code P0363, saving the catalyst. We check the presence of a spark at the spark gap and the balance of the injectors with Testmaster, without removing them from the car. Checking the compression and the search problem is solved. However, it may still be something from the “crooked handles of diagnosticians or HBO specialists.” Next comes repairs.

Source

Description and meaning of error P0351

This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles. While general, specific repair steps may vary depending on the make/model. The ignition system is KS (coils on a plug) which is used on most modern engines. Individual coil for each cylinder which is controlled by the PCM (powertrain control module). It eliminates the need for spark plug wires by placing the coil right above the sparkplug. 2 wires are assigned to each coil. One battery is powered usually from a power distribution center. The other wire is the coil driver circuit from the PCM. The PCM grounds / ungrounds this circuit to activate or deactivate the coil. The coil driver circuit is monitored by the PCM for faults. If an open or short is detected in the driver circuit for coil number 1, P0351 may set. Additionally, depending on the vehicle, the PCM may also disable the fuel injector to the cylinder.

Error 1302 viburnum 8 valves

Thanks everyone for the advice. Today I was at the service center, they adjusted the valves, although it could have been left alone without being critical, they cleaned the injectors (the second injector seemed to spray normally, but in terms of the total injection volume it was less than on other injectors), I haven’t checked the cold check yet, I’ll take a look tomorrow.

A week passed, there were no errors, today at lunch the problem became relevant again. P0363 Misfire - lack of fuel supply P1303, P1302. The MZ and BB were checked to be normal, both by myself and at the service center, the spark plugs are new, all fluids are normal, the compression is normal, the ECU under the glove compartment is dry, Kalina 2013 8kl. I went to see a diagnostician who adjusted the valves for me, cleaned the injectors, he was sick (((

Kalina1 hatch 1.6l, 8 valve, E-gas, mileage 40 thousand, 4 years. Controller in a dry place. There is no smell of antifreeze. On Wednesday I filled up a full tank of 95 at Rosneft. On Thursday I drove 10+10 km to work. On Friday morning I went to work - it tripled and doubled (the controller turned off cylinders 1 and 4) On Friday evening I replaced the Boshevsky MZ with a used original one - the tripping disappeared, although at first there was a strong drop in gas, which after installing the MZ on the bolts and a couple of re-gassing disappeared. I drove 1 km from the garage to the house perfectly. On Monday I came to work again on two cylinders - 2 and 3 were turned off. There were no other errors other than misfire and cylinder shutdown.

Today I’ll try a known working MZ from another Kalina. What else to do next?

Is there any point in checking the rail pressure? Eat.

You'll have to buy a pressure gauge. Come in handy.

I called both coils on Friday. Experts in electronics (not auto) say that an interturn short circuit cannot be detected with a multimeter, only a complete short circuit. Despite the fact that the interturn short circuit critically affects the operation of the coil for the worse. On the left is native, on the right is Bosch. One high voltage secondary winding is measured. The resistance of the second explosive winding is equal to the first.

Now I went to lunch by car - the cylinders did not turn off (I reset the errors in the morning). Hence the conclusion - it's getting too hot.

BC Staff watched and corrected the mistakes.

Could it be that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty?

BC Staff watched and corrected the mistakes.

Could it be that the crankshaft position sensor is faulty? Didn't you reset the ECU (afterburner) when the problems started?

Check the timing marks and, after aligning them, calculate where the 20th tooth on the damper points (when aligning the main timing marks, the 20th tooth of the damper should look at the end of the DPKV!)! I'll check tomorrow, thanks. But I haven’t touched the timing belt even once since I started buying the car.

Today I tried the obviously working MZ and BB wires from another machine - it didn’t help. There is a feeling of failure when you sharply press the gas pedal, vibration when revving the engine, there are no errors. I was driving home - at 70 km/h in 4th-5th gear, gas to the floor - the engine twitches like on an OKE with its problems with the carburetor. CheckEngin sometimes blinked, but errors were not recorded in memory. In the garage I replaced it with new mass air flow sensors (I can afford it :)), DPKV, new explosive wires, measured the pressure in the ramp - consistently 4 points when running. It didn’t help - failures on gas. Bosch Platinum spark plugs were replaced with original, proven DRVM ones. I don’t understand whether it helped or not, I drove 1 km through the courtyards to the house normally. Tomorrow we will measure the compression, the valves are clicking, I adjusted them a year ago myself (I know how).

Troubleshooting

If during diagnostics an error 0363 of a VAZ 2114 is noticed, then the reasons for this may be the following:

Poor quality fuel.
Air intake leaking.
No spark.
Damage or wear to the cylinders.

The first of these problems is quite simple to solve - you should try to refuel with gasoline from other manufacturers, and not the one that is currently used. Despite its apparent simplicity, this method very often helps - after all, as statistics show, more than half of the cases of error 0363 are associated with low-quality fuel.

If an error occurs very often and, as a result, leads to the shutdown of one of the cylinders (but the engine itself and related units are fully operational), you can reflash the engine control unit, removing information about this error from it.

If replacing the fuel does not help and the troubles continue, you should check the air intake system. It is necessary to tighten all fastening clamps, replace the air filter if it is worn out, and also measure the pressure in the ramp (normally it does not exceed 2.8 atmospheres).

The next step in troubleshooting will be diagnosing the ignition system.

So, you will need to check:

the condition of the armored wire connecting to the faulty cylinder;
condition of the spark plug of a faulty cylinder;
presence of oxides at connection points.

In order to check the condition of high-voltage wires, you need to measure their resistance with a tester. Normally it should not be more than 10 kOhm. If the measurements show greater resistance, then the wires are faulty and should be replaced (this should be done even if a regular “continuity test” shows the presence of a working circuit).

If the wires are in good condition, then you should check the spark plugs, or better yet, replace them with new ones, especially if the ones already installed belong to the “budget” price segment (as you know, all four spark plugs should be replaced at once, and not just one faulty one).

If all the above steps did not help, all that remains is to check the condition of the cylinders themselves. To do this, you should measure their compression. Its difference among all four cylinders should not exceed 0.5 atmospheres. If in some cylinder it differs significantly (both up and down), the car should be taken to a car service center to diagnose the engine condition.

The check light is on. Kalina station wagon 2010, 1.6, 8kl.

I adjusted it, it didn’t help, the same errors remained

Have the mistakes been erased? If everything is fine with the adjustment, but the injectors are crumpled in some places, then the wires to the injector may be to blame. And the fact that when the spark plug is pulled out the car stalls, it is quite possible that high-voltage interference is preventing the ECU from working. On a running engine, you cannot pull out the wires from the spark plugs, but you can pull them out and short them to ground before starting, you can also install a spark gap, but you obviously don’t have one. But it’s much easier to watch all this on a computer, but you need a person who knows how to watch it all. You need information from the scanner to understand which direction to dig.

I adjusted it, it didn’t help, the same errors remained

I erased the errors, they appear again (0363 and 1303), I swapped the injectors. If the wires are for the injector? Then why is there no open circuit error?

Why should there be a break? Or do you know of other reasons? For example, shorted to ground? After clearing the error, how long does the engine run normally? How do you read errors?

I erased the errors, they appear again (0363 and 1303), I swapped the injectors. If the wires are for the injector? Then why is there no open circuit error?

Why should there be a break? Or do you know of other reasons? For example, shorted to ground? After clearing the error, how long does the engine run normally? How do you read errors?

Source

Diagnosis and problem solving

Try wiggling and testing the wiring at coil #1 and along the harness to the PCM. If manipulation of the wiring causes misfire, correct the wiring problem. Check the reliability of the contact in the coil connector. Make sure the bundle of wires is not rubbing against anything. Repair if necessary.

If the engine is currently experiencing rough operation, stop the engine and disconnect the #1 coil wire connector. Then start the engine and check the driver signal on coil #1.

Use a voltmeter on the AC current scale in hertz. See if there is a reading between 5 and 20 Hz or so, which indicates the driver is working. If the readings vary, replace the No. 1 ignition coil.

If there is no frequency signal from the PCM in the ignition coil driver circuit, leave the coil disconnected. Check the DC voltage in the driver circuit at the ignition coil connector. If there is significant voltage on this wire, then there is a short somewhere. Find the short circuit and repair it.

If there is no voltage in the driver circuit, turn off the ignition. Disconnect the PCM connector and check the continuity between the PCM and the coil. If there is no continuity, repair the open circuit or short circuit.

If there is a break, check the resistance between ground and the ignition coil connector. There must be endless resistance. Other indicators indicate a short, repair the short to ground in the coil driver circuit.

If you find that the engine is misfiring, the coil fires correctly, but the P0351 code keeps popping up. There is a possibility that the PCM coil monitoring system may be faulty.

Answers

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Lada (“Lada”) is a brand of cars produced by JSC AVTOVAZ. Previously, it was used only for export cars, and for the domestic market, cars were produced under the Zhiguli brand. In 2004, the management of AVTOVAZ announced the transition to the Latin alphabet for the official spelling of the names of all cars produced by the plant: Lada - instead of "VAZ" and "Lada".

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Source

How to fix error P0363 on Lada Granta

In today's article we will talk about the malfunction that Lada Granta car owners encounter, namely error 0363. What is it? How to diagnose and, if necessary, repair?

The reason why this problem occurs is misfire. In more detail, there is no electric spark on the spark plug of one of the four cylinders, and, as a result, only three of them are activated.

During such operation, the engine power noticeably decreases, sharp jerks of the car are also observed, and the exhaust becomes louder. But most often in such a situation the car shows no signs of life at all. This happens both short-term and on an ongoing basis.

This can happen due to:

Let's now take a closer look at the third item on our list.

Errors 0363 and 1303 - what do they mean and how to fix them?

Sometimes you get into the car, the key is turned to start, and the engine barely spins up, vibrates a lot, and troits, the check light comes on. However, as the engine warms up, it starts to run smoothly. But it jerks when moving under tension, or during rapid acceleration. With such symptoms, the first thing you need to do is, of course, read the error codes. If you have an on-board computer, then this is not a problem at all, if not, diagnostics via the connector will help