VAZ 2109 if the trunk lock breaks

VAZ 2109 “Sputnik”, popularly called the “nine”, is a five-door car developed in the late 80s of the last century and mass-produced for more than 20 years. Its disadvantage: almost all the time the rear of the car remains contaminated with dust, sand and dirt. Various types of debris found on the road surface can end up on both the car itself and some of its parts. Often the trunk lock, the fifth door of the VAZ, suffers from this.

Everyone who has encountered this non-critical, but rather unpleasant breakdown of the VAZ 2109 trunk lock, has tried to somehow solve it. Today, there are several options for getting out of this unpleasant situation. The first, quite simple and logical, is to buy a new one and install it in place of the previous one in the same way as the mechanism was installed at the manufacturing plant.

But this option does not solve all problems, since the new lock will also become unusable over time and will require replacement. In addition, it is impossible to repair the lock itself, because it is a non-removable mechanism. In this case, craftsmen have adapted to installing an electric lock on the Lada Kalina on a VAZ 2109. All of these methods have their own significant differences, each has disadvantages and advantages.

Adjusting the latch and replacing the trunk lock on a VAZ 21099:

Removal:

• First, to remove the lock from the trunk lid, use a wrench or an extension with a head cap to unscrew the two nuts that secure the lock to the trunk lid.

• Once the retaining nuts are removed, remove the inner lock from the cover by hand.

• Next, remove the small spring from the same place and check its condition.

Note! If the spring suddenly becomes too compressed or skewed, replace it with a new one!

• And then, from the inside of the trunk lid, remove the button with the cylinder and check the condition of the button in the same way.

Note!

Replace the lock button that is not working and also slows down when pressed with a new one!

Many owners of VAZ 2108, 2109 and their successors 2113 and 2114, to put it mildly, are not satisfied with the rear door lock. Due to the low quality of these parts and the less than perfect design, there are often cases when it is almost impossible to adjust, much less force it to open using an electric drive. And often castles simply fall apart, almost in the literal sense of these words. Opening the trunk after hitting a bump is generally a classic... If your car does not have such problems and you don’t really believe in this, know that you are very lucky!

But there is an alternative solution to the problem - installing a lock on the Lada Kalina.

To carry out this modification, you will need the following: - lock from Lada Kalina (part number 1118-5606010-10), - approximately 15 cm of corner 30 x 30 mm, 1-2 mm thick., - M6 x 50-60 bolt (for the mating part ) or a mate to the lock, - two M6x 25-35 bolts + 4 M6 nuts + washers, - a trunk lock motor reducer (in principle, almost any motor will do, it doesn’t require much effort because the lock is not opened by an external drive, but by a spring inside the lock itself) lock) - cable or rod for connecting to the lock + fittings, - everything necessary to connect the electric drive for opening the lock - button, wires, relays, terminals, heat shrink. - dye.

Tools: - electric drill, - grinder, - files and needle files, - hacksaw for metal (in case the grinder is not convenient), - spanners and open-end wrenches for 8 and 10, - vice (it’s hard without them - the parts are too small), - crimp for terminals, - pliers, - lighter (for heat shrinking)

In principle, the point of this modification is to replace the standard Samara trunk lock with a lock more reminiscent of a door lock. At least that's how it is on foreign cars. You can try to build this from “chisel” door locks, but why if there is a Kalina lock, made in the image and likeness of foreign cars? The trunk lock from Kalina is in many ways similar to a door lock - it can be opened with a cable, and the tongue is in plastic, like on the silent locks mentioned higher. Below is a photo of the castle from Kalina without any modifications.

The first thing we will do to modify the lock is to cut off all the protruding metal at the top of the lock. The picture below shows what to cut down. It is also necessary to slightly shorten the “opener” lever, and ideally it is also advisable to make a cut with a needle file for better fixation of the opening mechanism cable. All these modifications are shown in photos 3 and 4. The already modified lock is in photo 5. The block with the wire is a limit switch. Ecgo can be used to turn on the trunk light or alert the driver that the rear door is not closed. In principle, a useful thing. But whether to use it or not is up to you to decide.

The next step is to make a bracket for the new lock.

We have 2 studs on the trunk lid and 2 holes in the lock. But they are located in different planes at an angle of 90 degrees... Therefore, we will attach the lock to the corners of 30 x 30 mm. You can leave the standard lock. It is possible to make the new lock open with a key, but it is not yet entirely clear how. If you wish, you can limit yourself to a cable for emergency opening... Therefore, there are actually 2 options: leave the old lock (or rather, the part with the button) as a plug or even weld a hole on the trunk lid. The first option seems to be the simplest in this situation, so we set about modifying the standard lock. The entire modification consists of sawing off almost its entire working part (tongue and its brackets) parallel to the mounting plane of the lock itself. We will need the mounting ears, so we don’t touch them. The modified trunk lock can be seen in photos 6 and 7.

The counter part of the Lada Kalina lock is a U-shaped bracket made of a rod, onto which the lock snaps. Everything is like in foreign cars. It may happen that the “answer” is not available in the store. Then there are also 2 options: wander around foreign car dealerships and pick up something similar or make it yourself.

Let's consider the last option. You can quickly make something like this... We take a piece of the same 30x30 corner and an M6 bolt with a nut. The corner will need to be “bent” a little - this can be done with a sledgehammer. The bolt also needs to be “bent” a little. This is necessary because the platform under the “lock” on the body is tilted, and the lock stands vertically when the trunk lid is closed. The finished “response” is in photo 8.

During installation, all this requires fitting from the inside, i.e. from the salon. We drill all the holes with a little more hardware so that adjustment can be made. Photo of the assembled lock and comments on photos 9, 10 and 11

It is advisable to paint the manufactured brackets and the “response” before installation, even with aerosol paint from a spray can. We install a new lock on the car. Between the lock from the Kalina and the corners, it may be necessary to install M6 nuts as adjusting spacers (we screw them onto the bolts that secure the lock to the corners) or several washers, depending on the specific case. This is necessary because the lock may be too low. A lock installed on a VAZ 2108-2109 from a Lada Kalina, inside view in photo 12.

The implementation of an electric drive for opening the lock in this case is the simplest. We simply place the motor on the desired side and connect it to the “opener” lever on the “Kalinovsky” lock. You can connect it with almost anything, the main thing is that it is possible to adjust and the coupling itself is as rigid as possible. In this particular case, everything is connected by a cable, only the lever is not equipped with the cable itself, but with a “chip” with 2 holes. A cable is inserted into one hole, and with the other hole the “chip” is put on the lever. The drive diagram is clearly visible in photo 13.

We will not dwell in detail on the description of the wiring, installation and connection of the button (to prevent the button from melting, we connect it through a power relay) and other points relating to electrics. As a supplement, we recommend reading this and this

What does installing a lock on a Lada Kalina on VAZ 2108, 2109, 2113 and 2114 give: - the trunk lid closes much more quietly - this lock is stronger and more difficult to break into. - if you are passionate about tuning your car, then you can easily weld the hole from the trunk lock button and thereby level the surface - the new lock initially has such a useful thing as a limit switch

Money spent (prices are approximate and in dollars - at least some stability in difficult times): - trunk lock from Lada Kalina - 12-15 dollars - drive motor - 4-5 dollars - wires, terminals, heat shrink, button, etc. for electrics – from 4-5 dollars – cable + accessories (cable locks) – 4-5 dollars

Total: approximately 25-30 dollars + 5-6 hours of time

We are discussing this improvement on our forum

Installation:

Note!

The trunk lid lock of the VAZ 21099 car is not dismountable, so do not try to repair it or do anything with it. If the lock is in a defective condition and is faulty, then it must be replaced with a new one!

• First, put the entire system back together. That is, if you previously removed the button with the cylinder and a small spring, then install them in their places in the reverse order of removal.
• Next, take the new lock in your hands and install it in its place, still tightening it with the same fastening nuts.
• After installation, try closing and opening the trunk lid. If, when closing the lid, the trunk lock suddenly does not fit into the hole in the latch, usually in this case a distinct knock is heard in the area of ​​the lock, and the lid closes very poorly, in this case:

First, pick up the extension cord with the union head and use it to remove the two bolts that secure the clamp.

Next, adjust the clamp and then screw these bolts back. Thanks to this operation, achieve clear closing and opening of the trunk lid.

The process of installing a lock on a VAZ 2109

This is where the fun begins - either I’m lucky, or others have had less luck, but it turned out that the lock from Kalina fits perfectly onto the bracket, which is already screwed to the boat under the rear wiper motor. True, I had to bend the petals a little and drill holes (from the trunk side). I found a photo of Kalina's castle and showed the excess parts with a dotted line - cut them off using a grinder or a hacksaw.

I immediately felt the disadvantage of this bracket - the connection is a little flimsy, so the lock can move and, as a result, the trunk of the Nine will not close. To make the connection stronger, you need a major corner. During my search, I came across a plate with perforation. I made a corner out of it and cut a hole for the lock lever (which opens the trunk). In the photo you can see this corner. You install it on the lyada and attach a lock to it. The rigidity is sufficient, so the door will not open while moving.

However, even if you use the first bracket, the likelihood of opening the trunk is extremely low. And now about the answer. In the photo you can see that it is screwed with the same bolts as the original one, into the same holes. One thing - I had to lift it slightly, for this I used two washers installed under the nuts of the cylinder head cover of the classic. They form beautifully, have a large support area, and the loop ultimately does not move to the sides.

To implement the electric drive for opening the Kalina lock on the VAZ 2109, a gearmotor with two wires was chosen. There is no point in taking five - there is no need for a limit switch. Check how the drive works - the rod is in the middle position, when connected to power (minus to blue, plus to green) it is retracted, when the polarity is reversed it is pulled out. Therefore, dance according to these parameters; for me it turned out to be more convenient to use the retraction mode, since it seems to me the most suitable.

Either now everyone has started actively repairing their cars, and at the same time their houses, but I couldn’t find a wire with a cross-section of about 0.75 square meters. mm. Well, maximum one and a half! Not anywhere, there is a yellow-green one (for grounding), and even that one is 2.5 square meters. mm. Therefore, the choice fell on a two-core one, the cross-section of each core is 0.5 square meters. mm. The Chinese usually use these in their household tape recorders. I screwed the gear motor to the bar and installed it on the trunk door. I screwed it onto the lock lever; to be honest, I don’t know what to call it correctly. Let this be an adapter that connects the lock rods and the drive spoke. This will probably be correct, but if not, then correct me. In the photo they are on the left in a bag.

These are the holes that appeared after I removed all the “unnecessary”

And now all that’s left to do is to connect the wires in the following sequence: cigarette lighter – button – motor output (green). The blue one, as you understand, needs to be screwed to the ground, fortunately there are plenty of bolts and nuts there. And the funny thing is that I removed the wiper and I already have at least three wires down to the steering column switches! I call and the choice falls on white with a blue stripe, and I use it as a feeder. And the purchased wire will be useful for something else. That's all, you try, evaluate, if necessary, loosen the fastening and move the lock body in the desired direction. And now one small “bonus”. There is a limit switch on Kalina's trunk lock, and I plan to use it to turn on the trunk lighting. I think the blue LED strip will be just right.

And to do everything as expected, you will have to use this circuit with a relay. The likelihood of damage to the button is reduced to zero. And the time has come to sum up and count the costs:

1. Castle Kalina sedan - 450 rubles.
2. The response part is 135 rubles.
3. Electric drive - 170 rub.
4. Button - 60 rub.
5. Wire - 50 rub.
6. Plank - 33 rub.
7. Total - 898 rubles.

Is it advisable? It seems to me that yes, because in three years I have changed at least six locks! It is also advisable to install gas equipment to save on fuel. Each lock costs on average 400 rubles (once they were 350, and then the price went up). Therefore, it is better to do it once and for a long time. And if you got here, you obviously encountered a similar problem. It can be solved, do it, don’t be afraid, you won’t make it worse. Subscribe in the comments and share your experience. Perhaps someone has tried Grant's Castle? What are the advantages?

Recommendations for changing the cylinder in a VAZ 2109 lock

It is not recommended to repair the lock cylinder, because repairing worn parts of the mechanism will lead to the replacement of related elements in the structure.

All work carried out to remove and install the lock cylinder must be carried out with the key inserted into the lock hole. Otherwise, this risks the pins falling out of the lock grooves, which will be very difficult to put back.

When removing the door card, you should take into account that part of the trim and the door pocket are fastened together; they are screwed to the body panel with lower screws.

For quick and successful work you will need the following tools:

• knob with heads “8” and “10”;
• flat screwdriver;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• pliers;
• larvae.

The price for a set of door lock cylinders with a trunk lock for a VAZ 2109 manufactured by AVTOVAZ with article number 21086100045 is 430 rubles.

The cost is indicated for the summer of 2022 in Moscow and the region.

Replacing the trunk cylinder of a VAZ 2109

Below is a guide on how to change the luggage lock cylinders yourself:

1. We release the trunk door from the upholstery.
2. Using an “8” wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the lock.
3. Disconnect the two terminal connectors for the license plate lamp and the windshield wiper motor.
4. We remove the lock.
   If the locking tooth of the lock is worn out or broken, you need to purchase a new body and replace the lock cylinder.
5. We replace the lock with a new cylinder.
6. We assemble all the parts in the reverse order of removal.

Reasons for replacing the VAZ 2109 lock cylinder

1. Rotating the lock around its axis . Very often this happens in the cold season, when when opening a frozen lock with force, the key is destroyed and the key with the cylinder comes out. The cause of this failure is the breaking of the locking ring and the falling out of the fixation pin.
2. Jamming and jamming of the lock . Over time, the internal pins and teeth of the lock wear out, and when you try to turn it, the components cling to each other.
3. When replacing one door handle with another.