How to install generator 21214 on VAZ 2106

The generator is necessary to power consumers while the engine is running, as well as to charge the battery in preparation for the next start. After the death of the old generator, it was decided to replace it with a more powerful one. Why and how this was done – we’ll tell you in today’s episode.

As they say, “Classics” are eternal, but progress does not stand still. The abundance of accessories and the desire to make the car cooler do their job - the standard generator cannot cope with the load.

The seven was injection with a 73A generator. In principle, this could be enough, but we wanted an 80A VAZ 21214. Among its advantages, we can note that the diode bridge can be changed almost without removal, and two impellers well extend the life of weak bearings.

Generator from Niva to Classic

The generator is necessary to power consumers while the engine is running, as well as to charge the battery in preparation for the next start. After the death of the old generator, it was decided to replace it with a more powerful one. We'll tell you why and how this was done in today's episode.

As they say, “Classics” are eternal, but progress does not stand still. The abundance of accessories and the desire to make the car cooler do their job - the standard generator cannot cope with the load.

The seven was injection with a 73A generator. In principle, this could be enough, but we wanted an 80A VAZ 21214. Among its advantages, we can note that the diode bridge can be changed almost without removal, and two impellers well extend the life of weak bearings.

Installing generator 21214 on a classic

Original. Good day to all! I have a VAZ 21043.

Two weeks ago I installed a more powerful generator, otherwise mine was completely lacking when the headlights, heated rear window and mirrors, computer, radio, and the periodically turning on radiator fan and pre-cigarette lighter were on. And I did the following: 1 went to Auto-49 (fortunately I had to go to Marino on business) and bought a generator 9412 - this is from the injection Niva 21214 - 1 piece

lower bracket 214 - 1 piece (I advise if you take the gene - taiga, then the bracket is also taiga, I don’t know what the difference is, but they say less hassle)

Alternator mounting bolt 2110 with a silent block and a shaped washer and nut (I took a direct kit)

You can also buy a 10x20x1.25 bolt (I didn’t need it - I didn’t have a hole on the engine)

Well, it’s advisable that there are no women nearby so that they don’t hear the three-story obscenity - it’s a joke

Installation is actually very simple: Remove the battery. To do this, we remove the old generator by unscrewing the tensioner nut, removing the protection from below, unscrewing and removing the bolt securing the old generator (do not lose the nuts and washers), then unscrew the wire from pin 30 and remove the connector from pin 61, and then remove the generator from below (it will jump out if move it to the lower suspension arm and remove it with the pulley upward.

What will it take to improve?

First of all, of course, the generator itself and the VTN type voltage relay (9111.3702). Later you will feel the difference why we chose it.

In addition, you will need a fastening mechanism from a VAZ 21214, a bracket, a bracket and a bolt for the generator itself, but from a VAZ 2110. In terms of mechanical installation, there should be no problems. The old fasteners are removed and installed in their place from Niva - anyone can do it.

The hardest part is the connection.

How to connect a generator from Niva?

The main problem is that the VAZ 2107 used two types of generator with corresponding circuits:

1. G222 - generator with constant excitation. If it was this one that was used, then we disassemble the new one and bite off additional diodes. Why is this being done? But the whole problem is that if this is not done, the car will refuse to stall. Below we attach a photo where you need to eat the diodes. After this, there should be no connection problems.

2. Generator 37.3701 . Here the excitation flows through the warning lamp on the instrument panel. In this case, no changes to the scheme need to be made.

Important nuance

If your car was produced between 1985 and 1989 , then none of the proposed options will suit you. Now we will look at how the generator was connected on these cars and what difficulties may arise with Nivovsky.

The fact is that on machines of this production a warning lamp relay was used. On constant excitation to the generator through fuse 9, the wire left the ignition switch. With this scheme, the charge control lamp never turned on, only in the absence of that same charge while the engine was running.

In this case, the connection will also depend on the type of generator:

1. G222. We also bite off the diodes and connect the wire to the generator.

2. If the excitation came through the lamp, then you need to do the following: simply remove the excitation wire from the fuse block in place 3 and connect it to place 7. Now the test lamp works. This wire is brown with a white stripe.

Photos are taken from the Internet and are not the property of the author!

Source

Generator Niva 2121, 21213, 21214

Every motorist knows that a generator is a fairly important element in the design of any car, thanks to which it is possible to set the engine in motion and provide all vehicle systems with the necessary energy.

The Russian-made Niva car in modifications 21214, 2121, 21213 are vehicles that almost every second car enthusiast in Russia has encountered.

Despite the release of several models, the contents of the Niva are practically no different. Thus, manufacturers used units with article numbers 9412.3701, 371.3701 as a generator in cars.

Lada 2107 LadaComfortVV › Logbook › Priora Luxe 140A generator in VAZ-2107

We go to LOSK and stock up on everything we need...

Generator KZATE 140A 9402.3701-14M (2100 UAH)

Lower generator mounting bracket from Niva 21214 Belt tensioner bar from Niva 21214 Fastening bolt (320 UAH)

Pulley from Niva 21214 (120 UAH) Connector for Lada Kalina generator (40 UAH)

We arrive home and begin the installation. We remove the old generator, unscrew the fastening and screw on the new one, it becomes as it was there, having previously sharpened it from the inside so that the generator itself can fit in.

I changed the pulley on the generator without any problems, the only thing I had to do was add a couple of washers to prevent the pulley from clinging to the generator housing.

Many people start aligning the tensioner bars there, bending them, drilling them, and so on, I took a simpler route, turn the classic tensioner bar 180° and screw the bar from the field

At the bottom, the bar is screwed to the generator until it stops, and the tension is applied at the top between the two bars. The axis also became perfectly straight, the engine spun up to 5 thousand, the belt was in place

After installation, I noticed that during operation the tensioner bar rests against the cooling system pipe

And it starts to rub this place.

Therefore, in order to avoid chafing of the pipe and contact of coolant with the generator, we mark on the bar with a felt-tip pen the place protruding beyond the ear of the generator

And we grind it, in this place and, just in case, rounding the edges from sharpness

Put it in place and notice how space appears

Now the bar does not reach the pipe

We connect the wires, the main one and the one that goes to the lamp on the tidy. There are 2 wires on the generator block, unlike the classic 1. The block itself has a rectangular edge and a rounded one, so our wire needs to be connected to the rounded side on pin L

. And everything works smoothly.

The only difference... On the old generator I set the idle speed to around 600 rpm

and at these speeds charging was already underway and I liked how the engine slowly droned on at these speeds.
After installing the generator prior, the idle speed had to be raised to 900 rpm
since it only starts giving out charge at 850 rpm, now the car runs louder at idle, but the charge is now stable... at idle it produces
14.1-14.2V
Turning on the low beam lights, fog lights, heaters, heated rear window and mirrors, and heated both front seats, the voltage remains stable at
13.8V
, I think this is already an achievement ☺️

After installing the generator, the sun just came out and I made a video of what the tidy looks like in the sun. I like.

Good luck to everyone on the roads and stable voltage☺️

Source

Generator NIVA

It took me a long time to decide to do this kind of work. I really didn’t want to deal with the change in the recently put order in the engine compartment: the electrical wiring was neatly laid in its place, the cross-section of the wires was chosen with reserve and satisfied my “today’s” needs, and to all that was said, you can also add the embarrassment of using a non-standard V-belt , which can only be obtained upon order. I became the proud owner of a VAZ-2121 generator transfer bracket

.

Generator transfer bracket from Z-IQ

The generator belt was not included in the kit and its size was not known to me, but a simple empirical method was used to determine, in my opinion, the most optimal belt size - 1350mm

.

V-belt, purchased to order

To install the bracket, you must: — unscrew and replace two studs and two M6×20 bolts of the camshaft drive cover with four M6×25 bolts;

— use a file to modify the bead around the cylinder head bolt and the bead on the cylinder block (shown in the figure below) under the bracket mount. Carry out the work locally; the approximate work time, if you have suitable and working tools, is 1/2 hour.

The design of the bracket consists of three parts and implies the possibility of installing generators from different manufacturers. In my case, the KZATE VAZ-21214 80A generator is installed in the middle vertical position. Before finally assembling and pulling the bracket, you must first check the alignment of the belt on the pump, generator and crankshaft pulleys.

Finally, we move on to the final part: disassemble, break and assemble. There are also positive aspects, for example, I used a large cross-section wire for the generator from the battery, in connection with its transfer, and reduced the length of the wires to the ignition switch from the generator.

Disassembled

Ultimately

Transferring the KZATE 80A generator (step-by-step instructions for a carburetor internal combustion engine) for NIVA

What you need: - Generator 21214 or similar - Generator mounting bracket 21214-3701650 with two nuts and bolts with a thin head for fastening to the KIT kit - KIT generator transfer kit - generator belt 1350 mm long - mounting bolt for generator 2110 assembly

- two bolts M8x20 and M8x30 with nuts

1) Remove the spare wheel from under the hood, unscrew the extension on which it rested 2) Unscrew the two studs and two bolts above the crankshaft pulley. We replace them with four longer bolts. If there are no problems with unscrewing the bolts, then there may be an ambush with the pins. It’s not difficult to solve; you can either weld it to the stud, or sharpen the stud with a file on both sides and turn it out with pliers. Everything turned out for us without any problems!

3) Now we take a grinder or a file and sharpen the engine block for the upper mounting of the bracket (the bolt to the left of the distributor, if you stand at the driver’s fender). On the block the tide has a round shape, but we reduce it to a rectangular shape!

4) We attach the generator mounting bracket 21214-3701650 to our massive structure

This is where the first difficulties appear. The generator bracket 214 should not rest against the outlet fitting of the fuel pump. On the KIT bracket there are three positions for installing the bracket from the 214 generator. We chose the middle one, there are still possible options: -upper (a 1375mm belt is required) -lower (replacement of the fuel pump with 2108 is required) 5) Attach the bracket to the engine block

6) Disconnect the “-” from the battery, remove the belt from the generator, disconnect the wires from the old generator. We unravel the braid of wiring from the lower generator to the level of the battery itself and the electrics. wiper motor (this length was enough for me to reach the upper generator) We pack the wiring in corrugated paper.

7) Install the generator on the upper bracket, put on the belt. We check the alignment of the pulleys. If necessary, adjust the position of the bracket from the 214 generator. Install the tension bar. Let's tighten the generator belt!

We connect the wires, start the engine, check the voltage! (we didn’t succeed the first time due to a defective regulator relay . We secure the wiring with plastic clamps. We pull the coolant hose to the gas hose mounting eyelet, which goes from the fuel pump outlet fitting to the carburetor

9) We inspect the engine compartment for the presence of jambs, making sure that they are absent, close the hood.

Installation of a generator from VAZ 2110-2112 in Niva

I started to notice that the battery was undercharging. Especially when the lights, heater and wipers are on. I got up several times because of this. You arrive, turn off the car, and then you can’t start it. It was necessary to change the generator. I wasn't happy about buying a new one. I bought it used from 2110. Well, then I needed to install all this. I found several reports on the Internet about how people put them on classics. But... I went a different way.

So, there is a generator with 2110-2112

You will also need the following parts: 1. Lower mounting bracket for generator 21214 2. Mounting bolt for generator 2110 assembly 3. Tension bar 21214 4. Bolt M8x1.25x75 5. Nut M8 for generator bolt 2110 6. Washer 8X24 - 5 pcs. 7. Collapsible generator pulley 2101 8. Rear shock absorber spacer bushing 2101

9. Bushing for lower mounting of generator 2110

I removed the pulley under the semi-V belt. There are two holes on the front of the generator housing; you need to insert M6 bolts into them and thereby lock the rotor. I have a generator with a pulley diameter of 15 mm. The pulley from 2101 fits perfectly on the shaft; its hole is also 15 mm. (I also tried on pulley 21214, but its hole diameter is 17 mm)

To install, you only need to trim the thrust bushing. And the fan and the second thrust bushing will not be needed. I additionally welded the pulley halves, but in principle this is not necessary.

The steel bushing needs to be knocked out of the new lower mount 21214; it will be replaced with 2110. I unscrewed the old generator, the old tension bar and the lower bracket of the generator. And I screwed on the bottom bracket from 21214. I also had to buy one more bolt since the old bracket had two bolts.

Shendys › Blog › VAZ classic generators

What are they, how do they differ in connection?

First, briefly about the operation of the generator. Who knows - scroll down to two lines. If you wrap a wire around something metal and apply electricity to it, you get an electromagnet. This should have been taught in physics classes at school. If you move a magnet or electromagnet next to a winding (made of wound wire), then electricity will appear in the coil, electrons will run in one direction along the wire, then in the other. If you connect a light bulb, for example, it will glow. A car generator works the same way.

The generator pulley rotates through the belt, which turns the rotor (moving part), power is supplied to it through the brushes, and an electromagnetic field appears in the winding.

Standard option

Which generator is better to install on VAZ 2106 and 2107? The question is quite complicated. It needs to be considered starting with the most common option. After all, any manufacturer will say that it is the standard version that should be installed on the car. Let's look at the features of the standard version G221.

In this type of relay generator, the regulator is installed separately from the brush assembly. This makes it easier to troubleshoot some problems to some extent. The advantage is the ease of installation, there is no need to adjust the wiring for connection, everything is done according to the standard scheme. But such a generator is low-power; it produces a charge of a maximum of 42 A, which is not enough for most modern batteries.

From all this, we can conclude that a standard generator is certainly good. But, if you have additional devices, it is not very profitable to use it. It is best to choose a more powerful option.

This generator is intended for use on Niva cars. It is capable of delivering 50 A of current, which is quite enough for full-fledged electrical work. It differs from a standard “six” generator in the presence of a built-in regulator relay. Here it is assembled into one unit with brushes. Therefore, to install it on a VAZ 2106, you just need to make some minor modifications. This electric machine is installed on 2107 without any special interference or modifications.

There are several ways to refine such a generator. The easiest way would be to install brushes from the G221 generator. They fit perfectly in place of the relay assembled with the brush assembly. No modifications are required, this allows you to install such a generator, even for people without special skills. It is possible to install the G222 with a standard regulator, but to do this, you will have to redo the generator connection diagram. Otherwise, nothing will work out.

What to choose?

In terms of popularity and reliability, the first places are occupied by manufacturers Bosch (Bosch), Denso (Denso) and Delphi (Delphi). But you should know that Katek (KZATE) (made by us) are also quite reliable and do a good job of their duties on the VAZ 2110, creating the required voltage. Maybe somewhere they lose against Bosch, but compared to the Chinese they are at their best.

VAZ generators of the tenth family:

So it’s difficult to say for sure which generator is right for you; the best one is the one that provides the necessary power to operate electrical appliances and charge the battery. If we take the advantages that Katek clearly has, then this is sufficient reliability, and also - what is important - the availability of inexpensive spare parts for sale: you can always buy at least a fuse, a pulley, an armature, a voltage regulator, an excitation wire, etc.

A car generator is a mandatory element of the on-board network of any modern car, regardless of the type of engine and the fuel it consumes. It is he who provides energy to all systems and mechanisms that consume electric current.

In this article we will look at the design, technical characteristics and operating principle of the VAZ-2110 generator. In addition, we will talk about its malfunctions, diagnostic methods and troubleshooting methods.

Generator 2108

This device is often installed on both 2106 and 2107. This is due to its greater efficiency; it produces a charging current of 55 A, which is quite enough for most motorists. But, if your car has significantly more equipment, then it is better to choose something more powerful.

These generators are identical in terms of mounting, so there will be no problems with the installation itself. Of course, if you remember to remove the terminal from the battery. The fun starts when you connect. The whole point is that 4 wires are attached to the original device. There are only 3 for the “eight” one. This is due to the built-in voltage relay. To obtain a normal result, you need to insulate the black wire, and connect the rest as usual. When the generator is running, the light indicating the discharge will be on. This is a normal phenomenon with such a connection. Accordingly, it should go out when there is no charging.

In principle, you can already drive like this, but if you want to do everything as expected, you will have to make some more modifications. We remove the old relay and replace it with a regular power relay. Now the light will light only when the engine starts, and also at low speeds, which is quite acceptable.

When installing on a VAZ 2107, you only need to add a power relay.

Some useful tips to extend the life of your generator

To ensure that your “ten” generator serves for a long time and does not present unpleasant surprises, use the following tips.

• At least once a month, check the condition of the device’s drive belt and its tension. If it is damaged, immediately take measures to replace it.
• Pay attention to the sound of the generator. If you hear a hum characteristic of failed bearings, replace them yourself, or contact a service center for this.
• Do not connect electrical appliances to the vehicle's on-board network that consume a current greater than the current generated by the generator.
• If the warning light on the instrument panel is constantly on, indicating that the battery is not charging, check the voltage regulator. If it fails, replace it.
• Do not expose the generator to water. It can cause a short circuit.

Generator 2107-3701010

For lovers of various additional equipment, an even stronger “gene” is required. They can recommend installing a device from a VAZ 2107i. This unit produces 80 amps, which is sufficient to operate any electrical systems added by the owner. When purchasing such a generator, keep in mind that there are several varieties. For installation on a VAZ 2106, only model 2107-3701010 is suitable; any generators of this series can be installed on carburetor “sevens”.

It is advisable to modify the device for installation on the “six”. To do this, the relay regulator is replaced with a similar one from G222. The connection is completely similar to working with a figure-of-eight generator.

Conclusion

. Initially, rather weak generators were installed on the “sixes” and “sevens”. But, in the process of technology development, their power was no longer enough to provide adequate power to the car. So the question arose, which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 and 2107. Fortunately, there is plenty to choose from. The next generations of devices are perfect for old Zhiguli cars after a little modification.

If the generator is seriously damaged, it does not have to be repaired, but completely replaced. Parts necessary for repair may be missing, or the breakdown may not be repairable at all. Meanwhile, the on-board voltage and the quality of battery charging depend on the good operation of the power unit. It's a shame when, despite a good motor, electrical equipment does not work properly.

And if we are talking about VAZ cars, then sometimes a replacement is in demand due to the lack of power of standard devices. Modern automakers offer many additional devices that increase the level of comfort when traveling, but they also consume a large amount of electricity, and old devices cannot cope, so they have to be replaced with more powerful ones.

Many people are interested: which generator to buy if they have a VAZ? Here you need to consider them separately by model, so before you go shopping, read the recommendations of specialists and compare them with your wishes and capabilities.

VAZ specialists answer

VAZ SPECIALISTS ANSWER

VAZ:

EVGENY BAIBORIN - engine development department

ALEXEY KLIMENKO – transmission development department

YURY PROKHOROV – after-sales service department

ALEXANDER GUSEV – transmission development department

On my Niva VAZ-21214, the plastic chain guide broke more than once, once every 10-12 thousand km. I changed the chain, sprockets, tensioner shoe and the hydraulic chain tensioner itself, the oil line - I can’t find the reason!

The dampers used in the factory configuration, produced by JSC "Plastik" from Chelyabinsk, have proven to be quite reliable. In your case, the reasons for the breakdown of the original, factory damper could be factors such as an error in the initial installation, a deviation in the location of the damper mounting on the cylinder head, or the dimensions of the damper itself from the requirements of the drawing. In these cases, the damper may become distorted, ultimately leading to its destruction.

A serious threat of breakage of the damper also arises when shock loads are applied to it due to insufficient tension of the operating chain - usually this is due to a malfunction of the hydraulic tensioner, but in some cases the cause of this is excessive wear of the sprockets and chain, its significant elongation and sagging.

Calcifiers bought in a store may be inferior in strength to the original ones due to the low quality of their material - plastic.

I want to remake the VAZ-21214 timing drive according to the 21213 model. What is the difference between sprockets, chains, etc.?

The 21213 engine has a 21213 camshaft, which is driven by the long-established traditional double-row bushing chain 2103 (116 links). Here is the original kit - tensioner, shoe, chain guide. The stars are, accordingly, double-row. The number of teeth for all engine options is the same: 19 on the crankshaft nose, 38 on the camshaft and oil pump drive. Valve lever supports are mechanical. These details are well known to many from VAZ classic cars.

On the 21214 engine, to reduce noise and at the same time increase reliability, they used a single-row, but bush-roller chain 21214 (116 links), single-row sprockets, a camshaft 21214, hydraulic supports for valve levers, an original set - a hydraulic tensioner, a shoe, and a damper.

Conversion of the timing drive 21214 to 21213 is possible provided that the above parts are completely replaced, but the meaning of the event is questionable.

Is it true that in the 21124 engine (1.6 l, 16 valves), in the event of a timing belt break, the collision of the valves with the pistons is completely excluded?

Theoretically, the probability of valves contacting the pistons on the 21124 engine still exists, but compared to its predecessor 2112, it is small. For such an event to occur, the following factors must confluence:

— unfavorable combination of the true dimensions of parts within tolerances;

— high engine operating temperature;

- camshaft stop when the valve is fully open.

Neither during factory tests nor in operation (starting from October 2004) were there any cases of contact of valves with pistons on VAZ-21124 engines.

Is it true that you should end your trip by “blowing through” the engine at high speeds (about 3000 rpm) for one minute so that there is no carbon left on the spark plugs?

In the summer this makes no sense. In winter, at frosts of 20 degrees and below, if before this the engine was slightly warmed up or was idling, the “operation” can be useful. At the same time, such techniques do not eliminate problems caused by low-quality gasoline, malfunctions of the power supply and ignition systems. Difficulty starting the engine - and not only in winter conditions - is often explained by precisely these reasons.

Is it possible to install an intermediate shaft with a CV joint from a VAZ-21213 between the gearbox and transfer case on a VAZ-2121?

Intermediate shaft 21213 can be installed instead of unit 2121 on Niva cars with any gearbox - an outdated four-speed or a modern five-speed. This is justified by the fact that it allows one to somewhat reduce the requirements for the alignment of the gearbox and transfer case shafts. An additional advantage is in the very “ideology” of the CV joint, which ensures much more uniform rotation of the “drive shaft - driven shaft” pair than with conventional universal joints, and, accordingly, a reduction in vibrations in the transmission.

In the 21214 engine, the hydraulic valve compensators are knocking. This is not the first set I have replaced! Is it possible to replace them with “cups”, like on the VAZ-2108?

Take an interest - at least in books - about the design features of the cylinder heads of both engines! They differ so radically that the alteration you propose is out of the question. This is tantamount to developing a different engine.

Generators for VAZ 2106 and 2107

The generator on the VAZ 2106-2107 costs the same as on the VAZ 2101 - G221. If you install additional external current consumers that operate constantly, this will lead to undercharging and insufficient current will be supplied from the relay regulator. These additional devices include:

Any similar device will lead to greater power consumption and, consequently, to premature battery discharge, even when the engine is running at high speeds. Standard devices for 2106 were developed a long time ago and are not designed for modern energy-consuming add-ons.

In this case, it is recommended to replace the standard generator with a more powerful unit.

What to install?

G 222

If you need to increase the current power, then, when deciding which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 or 2107, instead of the standard one, take the G 222, which was installed on the VAZ 2105, Nivakh. It would seem that it itself is no better than the standard one on the “six”, but you can take an upgraded version that will be more powerful. Unlike the 221, this unit is designed with a built-in regulator relay, assembled into one unit with brushes. The G 221 gives an output of 42 A, and the 222nd - 50 A. Increasing the cross-section on the rotor winding increases the power, although the design is completely similar to the G 221. However, to install it on the 2106 you will need minor modifications. The easiest way is to install brushes from G 221. They fit perfectly in place of the relay. This modification is quite feasible even for car enthusiasts who do not have the skill.

It can be installed on a VAZ 2106 G222 with a standard regulator, but then it is necessary to change the connection diagram of the electrical machine.

On 2107 everything is installed without problems.

Check the voltage at medium engine speeds at the battery terminals, if it is 14 V at 2500 rpm, then everything is fine. You can drive with a more powerful unit by connecting additional options.

Generator for VAZ 21214 injector, its purpose and operating principle - Auto mechanic

Every motorist knows that a generator is a fairly important element in the design of any car, thanks to which it is possible to set the engine in motion and provide all vehicle systems with the necessary energy.

The Russian-made Niva car in modifications 21214, 2121, 21213 are vehicles that almost every second car enthusiast in Russia has encountered.

Despite the release of several models, the contents of the Niva are practically no different. Thus, manufacturers used units with article numbers 9412.3701, 371.3701 as a generator in cars.

What is a generator

A generator is an alternating current device that produces electromagnetic excitation during operation. The generator design has a built-in rectifier unit, equipped with diodes made of silicon, as well as an electronic voltage regulator.

Thus, the unit creates electrical energy from mechanical energy and energizes the car’s battery, and also provides energy to its devices and systems. The connection diagram for the generator on Niva-2121, 21213, 21214 is shown in the figure.

Characteristics of the standard generator

The main characteristics of the generator installed by the manufacturer in Niva 21214, 21213, 2121 will be considered using the example of generator type 9412.3701:

• current – ​​80A;
• voltage – 13.2 V,
• rotation is right.

The cost of standard models of electric generators is 5-7 thousand rubles. If the unit breaks down, it is possible to replace its components or completely replace it with the original or analogues. The prices of the most common ones are presented in the table.

AnalogArticleCost, in rubles

The table shows that in the process of replacing a generator on a Niva, you can give preference to a cheaper universal analogue.

Generator faults

During the operation of any car, unpleasant situations often arise in the form of failure of one or another element. Niva is no exception, and most often the generator suffers.

If the generator seems to be faulty, it is recommended to check its functionality using a multimeter. To do this, you will need to start the engine and check the voltage at the battery terminals. The standard value that a multimeter should read is 13.6 V.

If the readings during measurement are higher, it means that a break or short circuit in the windings has occurred in the structure. The same can be said about the case when the voltage is below the specified number. This procedure is carried out regardless of the engine: injector or carburetor.

The generator unit may fail due to low belt tension or its breakage due to wear. If such problems occur, it is recommended to tighten the belt or replace it with a new one.

Also, if the breakdown is caused by another reason, you can replace the generator itself. Usually, for replacement, they turn to special service stations, but if necessary, the work can be done with your own hands.

Generator replacement

To repair or replace the generator, the car owner will have to remove the unit completely from the car or turn to professionals for work. If you still want to carry out the replacement yourself, then first you will need to prepare all the necessary tools:

• hammer;
• extension;
• keys to "10" and "19".

The procedure consists of the following sequence of actions:

• First, you will need to park the car in a place designated for inspection and repair. The car will also need to be secured using special wheel chocks. Finally, in order for the work to be carried out safely, you should disconnect the battery by disconnecting the terminals from it.
• After this, you need to remove the engine protection. It is attached to several bolts, and they must be unscrewed to get to the lowest bolt of the generator.
• After this, you will need to knock out the mounting bolt using a hammer. It is recommended to knock carefully so as not to damage the thread and to prevent the bolt from coming out in the opposite direction. A hammer is necessary, since a wrench or any other tool simply cannot handle a bolt.

• Next, you need to remove the bolt, swinging the generator from side to side. It is necessary to bolt in any case, as this makes it easier to remove the rod.
• The fourth step involves disconnecting the wiring. To do this, the power wires connected to the housing are disconnected from the unit. In this case, you can first disconnect the plug from the wires.

• Wires are also attached to the generator, tightened with a nut or bracket. In this case, the nuts must be unscrewed with a wrench, and then the loose wires must be pulled out.

• Finally, after disconnecting the wires, you can begin to unscrew the upper fastening element with the belt tensioner. For this you will also need a wrench, as well as a small extension cord.

• Disconnecting the fastener will allow you to remove the belt and alternator. Then you can start cleaning the vacated space with a brush and installing a new unit.

The structure is assembled in the reverse order; the entire procedure will take about two hours if you have all the necessary tools.

Additionally, it is worth noting that when everything is assembled, you will need to adjust the position of the generator using the tensioner. To do this, you need to unscrew the tensioner nut and tighten or loosen the belt, while observing the battery charge.

If the indicator returns to normal, then the selected tension is sufficient. There is no need to tighten the structure, as the generator bearing may fail. If the tension is insufficient, the generator will work intermittently, and this can also lead to breakdown.

Lada Priora - generator replacement

The Priora requires a powerful generator; the car has a lot of electronics and a weak installation cannot cope with it.

A generator labeled 5102.3771 is recommended for the Priora, providing a power of 80 A; on luxury versions with even more electronics, a 115 A device is installed. Then which generator is better to install on the Priora?

Car owners recommend a unit produced by KZATEtm Samara plant under number 9402.3701-14, producing 115 A.

There is no need to modify it during installation, you just need to find the connector, because there are differences from the standard one. You can use a plug from a VAZ-2108 from the limit switch for turning on the reversing lights, which costs only 20 rubles.

Next, you will have to make a little modification when connecting to the “B+” power terminal in order to fit it to the desired size.

The cost, of course, of domestic units is higher than that of Chinese or Bulgarian ones, sold for 2200 and 3000, respectively. For Russian ones they ask for about 4000. But if you need repairs with Russian-made components, you can easily find spare parts.

Replacing the VAZ 2106 Generator with a More Powerful One

put on VAZ 2106

and 2107? Several variants

Probably wondering which generator is better?

install on VAZ 2106 and 2107. After all, the standard device has some shortcomings that negatively affect the performance. Standard generators were developed quite a long time ago, and they were not designed for significant volumes of energy consumers. The office one used a couple of light bulbs and a starter. It is clear that with a larger number of devices, the generator cannot cope with its obligations.

We have to find a suitable replacement for him. For this purpose, it is important to take into account what remains for our client to do about the electronic circuits of the machine. The new device must fit this list one hundred percent.

Which generator is better to install on VAZ 2106 and 2107?

The question is quite difficult. It is necessary to consider it, starting with the development of the most ordinary option. Any manufacturer will say that a specific standard version must be installed on the car. Let's look at the features of the standard version G221.

Here, in the type of relay generators, the regulator is installed separately from the brush assembly. This, within certain limits, simplifies the work to eliminate certain defects. The advantage is the ease of installation; there is no need to adjust the wiring for connection; our client can only do it according to the standard scheme. However, such a generator is low-power, it produces a maximum charge of 42, which is not enough for the majority of modern batteries.

Replacing the VAZ 2106 generator with a more powerful one.

From all this, they conclude that the standard generator is naturally excellent. However, if you have additional devices, it is not entirely profitable to use it. It is best to choose a more powerful option.

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This generator is intended for use on Niva cars. It is capable of delivering 50 A of current, which is enough for real electrical work. Its difference from a standard “six” generator is the range of built-in regulator relays. Here it is assembled into one unit with brushes. For installation on VAZ 2106

, it is very important to make small improvements. This electronic machine is installed on 2107 without any special interference or modifications.

VAZ Generator Replacement

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There are several methods for modifying such a generator. The most common would be to install brushes from generator . They are perfectly installed in the area of ​​the relay assembled with the brush assembly. No modifications are needed, this allows you to install such a generator, even for people without special abilities. It is possible to install the G222 with a standard regulator, but for this purpose you will have to redo the generator connection diagram. Otherwise, nothing is possible.

Replacing the VAZ 2106 generator with a VAZ 2107.

> myth the device is quite often installed on 2106, 2107. This is all due to its greater efficiency, it produces a charging current of 55 A, which is quite enough for the majority of motorists. If your car has more than just equipment, then it is better to choose something more powerful.

These generators are similar in terms of mounting, so there will be no problems with the installation itself. This is if you remember to remove the terminal from the battery. The fun starts when you connect. What remains for our client to do, what exists, that 4 wires are connected to the native device. There are only 3 for the “eight” one. This is all connected with the integrated voltage relay. To obtain the usual result, you need to insulate the dark wire, and connect the others as usual. While the generator is operating, the light indicating the discharge will glow. This is a common occurrence with this connection. Accordingly, it should fade away in the absence of charging.

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By and large, this is already an option to drive, but if you want to do everything possible, as expected, you will have to make some more modifications. We remove the old relay and replace it with an ordinary power relay. Now the light will glow only when the engine starts, and at low speeds, which is completely acceptable.

To install on a VAZ 2107 you will only need to add a power relay.

Fans of various additional equipment require an even stronger “gene”. Of course, they should be advised to install a device from a VAZ 2107i. > myth the unit produces 80 And this is quite enough to perform the work of all electronic systems added by the owner. In purchasing such a generator

, please note that there are a number of their varieties. For installation on a VAZ 2106, only model 2107-3701010 is suitable; on carburetor “sevens” there is an option to install any generators of this series.

Replacing the VAZ 2101 generator with a more powerful one.

It is better to modify the device for installation on the “six”. For this purpose, the relay regulator is replaced with a similar one from G222. The connection is quite similar to working with a figure-of-eight generator.

. Initially, rather weak generators were installed on the “sixes” and “sevens”. But, in the process of technology development, their power was no longer enough to provide adequate power to the car. So the question arose, which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 and 2107. Fortunately, there is plenty to choose from. The next generations of devices are perfect for old Zhiguli cars after a little modification.

Source

Which generator is better to put on a VAZ 2110

VAZ 2110 factories install KATEK generators with a current of 80 A. The service life is 140,000 km, which is approximately 10 years of vehicle operation. Answering the question of which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2110, experts recommend products from Russian manufacturers.

What to consider when choosing

Generator Manufacturers

It is best for 2010 to purchase a standard generator from KATEK or KZATEtm Samara plant, and about 50% of owners do just that, according to statistics. They are reliable, cope perfectly with their functions, creating the necessary tension.

Among the foreign-made generators, we can recommend Bosch, Delphi and Denso, which are also reliable and popular.

Generator VAZ 2106,2107 - which more powerful one is better to install, installation and replacement

Correct operation of the generator 2106 2107 ensures the proper functioning of all vehicle devices. According to the attached operating instructions, the technical condition of the VAZ 2106 generator is checked at least once every 4 months. Failure to pay attention to this requirement leads to wear and tear of the device. As a result, the question of which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 becomes relevant.

If the car is involved in an accident or major repairs, it is imperative to ensure that the device is in working order. Otherwise, the voltage drop will cause serious damage to all electricity consumers in the car. In most cases, a VAZ generator malfunction can be repaired in a garage.

Possible causes of malfunctions

There are several common reasons that require the driver to look under the hood of the “iron horse”:

• partial or complete combustion of the VAZ 2107 winding;
• cases of interturn short circuit;
• physical wear of parts;
• external physical influence;
• mechanical damage.

Inexperienced drivers of the VAZ 2108 or earlier modifications need to remember one nuance. When choosing lighting fixtures, you need to take into account their power. For example, if you decide to install fog lights, the power of which is 40-50 W each, you should look at the technical description of the VAZ 2106 or 07. Their installation is allowed only if the vehicle’s generator produces more than 55 A of current.

Generators for VAZ 2114

The generator initially built into the 2114 is low-power, and if it also breaks down and you decide to purchase a new one, the question arises: which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2114? It is important here that the unit is more powerful, but there is no need to change the fastenings.

Installing these generators for 2014 usually does not cause problems, however, it will be necessary to replace the pulley, but it only costs about a hundred rubles and is not difficult to find.

Please note that a lack of charging voltage can occur simply due to oxidation of the battery terminals; keep an eye on them by cleaning them regularly.