Electric window device (ESP) and connection diagram
The standard circuit consists of a control unit, drive and trigger mechanisms. The drive mechanism, or gearmotor, rotates the cable drum, directly raising or lowering the glass. The gearmotor is a solid block of an electric motor with a worm gear, which provides rotation in only one direction, from the worm to the wheel. This prevents the window from accidentally closing. The built-in thermobimetallic fuse protects against overloads.
Let's look at what the components in the electric lifting mechanism circuit are responsible for:
1. There is a mounting block located under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Devices are powered from it.
2. The power window relay reduces the current in the control circuit.
3. Buttons with LED backlight, on the right and left doors, activate the glass lifting mechanism.
4. Gear motors for the passenger and driver's doors create a force that raises and lowers the window.
5. The ignition switch supplies power to the relay.
How does the scheme work?
Turning the ignition key supplies power to the unit and the lift relay. The LED backlighting of the control buttons turns on. The glass movement mechanism starts only when you press any key.
The movement of current in the circuit: battery - fuse - relay - button - motor.
Specifications
- Operating voltage range: 10.8 – 15 V
- Nominal force on drive plate: 12 kgf
- Allowable force on the drive plate: 20 kgf
- Time to move the plate from one extreme position to another at a supply voltage of 13.5 V and rated force: 4 s
- Current consumption at supply voltage 13.5 V and rated voltage, no more than: 8 A
Completeness
- Power window R162.16 front right 1
- Power window R162.16-01 front left 1
- Screw M5 4
- Screw M6 4
- M6 bolt with locking skirt 4
- Lock washer 8
- Adapter plate right 1
- Adapter plate left 1
- Decorative plug 2
- Plug retainer 2
- Self-tapping screw for fastening plug 2
- Pack 1
- Passport 1
Overall dimensions in packaging: 53.5*17.5*7 cm.
Front door window regulator malfunctions
During the operation of the car, breakdowns of the window lifting mechanism occur. Most often, the causes of malfunctions are related to the electrical circuit of the lifts. Let's look at the main causes of malfunctions:
1.Both window regulators do not work: 1.1. The fuse has blown. 1.2. Unreliable connection of wires to ground 1.3. The connector is disconnected or there is a break in the electrical network. 1.4. The main power window switch is faulty.
2. The right one does not work: 2.1. Damage to the gearmotor or reverse current relay. 2.2. Electrical network interruption. 2.3. The power window switch is broken.
3. The glass goes down, but does not go up. The reason is that the button is stuck in the down position.
4. Slowing down or raising the glass. The reason for this is contamination of the drainage holes at the bottom of the door.
5. The cable in the drum may be worn out or broken.
6. Mechanical damage also occurs. They are identified by characteristic noises and knocks. Troubleshooting begins with checking the fuse; it supplies power to both window regulators. If the cause of the breakdown is not found, you will have to disassemble the door.
Controller for power windows or sunroof in a car
This device is an automatic controller for power windows, which are designed for a car that already had electrically operated windows, but they only worked when a button was pressed. Once released they stopped immediately. For ease of management, our own version was created. Here, automatic closing / opening of the glass occurs after holding the button for 1 second, and now you can easily open the window with a short press, as in more advanced cars. For example, you can use it to control a purchased window drive on a VAZ and similar cars. The device controls only one glass; to control two, it is necessary to create two such circuits. This of course requires more work and increases the cost slightly, but this solution has many advantages:
- Can be applied to electric sunroof.
- Easier to install and connect.
- The use of buttons is independent for the passenger and driver.
Attention! Be careful when assembling, testing and operating the circuit! Edition 2 of Schemy.ru is not responsible for material or moral damage caused by the presented scheme. You use all this at your own peril and risk!
Car fuses and relay box
The vehicle's power supply and consumption system ensures the correct functioning of components and assemblies and comfortable driving. The car's current source is the battery. The consumers are connected in parallel and combined into separate blocks with fuses.
On the Chevrolet Niva, the fuse box is mounted in a unit and is located in the passenger compartment. Fuses protect almost all electrical power circuits. They do not have such protection for the generator circuit, engine starting and battery charging.
Location of the Niva Chevrolet immobilizer and instructions for disabling
page » Immobilizer » Location of the Niva Chevrolet immobilizer and instructions for disabling
An immobilizer is a device that blocks the engine when an attempt is made to steal a car. Used as a primary or additional anti-theft means, if present, the alarm can already be considered a security complex. In Chevrolet Niva cars, the immobilizer is installed as standard, but depending on the modification, it may be missing.
Blocker APS-6 APS-4
Chevrolet Nivas produced before 2004 were equipped with APS-4 immobilizers. Modern cars began to use APS-6 devices. In later versions of the car, it began to be installed on the steering column, and not in the tunnel.
Troubleshooting ESP
To prevent the front door window lift mechanism from breaking, it is enough to lubricate all its parts once a year. In case of breakdowns, remove the ESP and carry out repairs:
1. The fuse is checked in the standard way. Using the diagram or visually we find the required fuse. We inspect it for broken wires and burnt marks. You can check with a tester (multimeter) by resistance or voltage.
2. Check the relay for serviceability. To do this, either connect a new one, or close contacts 30 and 87 with each other. The relay cannot be repaired; it must be replaced.
3. Window lifter buttons are easier to remove and replace. The reason for their malfunction is oxidation of the contacts. You can quickly restore the operation of the buttons by treating them with WD-40 penetrating liquid.
4. The faulty motor must be replaced. Its repair is possible only if the contacts are oxidized. They need to be cleaned. If there is no voltage in the walk-behind tractor wires, you need to find the break and repair the damage.
All moving parts of the removed ESP mechanism are inspected for mechanical damage, dust, and dirt. Sometimes it is enough to clean the parts from rust and lubricate them for the lift to work properly.
Electrical work
Remember that using a power window fuse can protect all important components from short circuits.
The electrical setup procedure looks something like this:
- The electric motor must be supplied with voltage directly from the battery. In this case, the rotor should rotate and the entire mechanism should rise up. And you need to wait for the moment when the holes in the fasteners of the mechanism are aligned with those located on the glass carriages. Only after this can the glass be fixed.
- If there is no wiring (the installation of ESP is not provided for by the manufacturer), then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body. You need to run wires to the instrument panel.
- You can place the control buttons in any convenient place, but it is best to place them in the door handle. But on domestic cars they are more often installed in the cigarette lighter area or near the handbrake.
- All moving parts of the electric drive must be lubricated - a CV joint type compound is suitable.
- Apply voltage to the entire system through the power window fuse and check operation.
- If there are no faults, you can install the casing and recheck.
The article shows a wiring diagram for the power window button. It is recommended to switch all power circuits using relays to maintain the integrity of the buttons.
Replacement of front SP
Remove the ESP mechanism from the front door to repair parts or completely replace it. The electric window lifter is also removed during other repair work, when the mechanism interferes with their implementation. A standard set of tools is required.
Sequence of work:
- Remove the plastic door trim. Using a thin screwdriver, carefully pull out the plastic plugs. We unscrew the cross-shaped screws on the frame near the opening handle, and the three at the bottom of the door on the bottom pocket and remove the parts. Remove the two large screws under the plug. We remove the main casing.
- Disconnect the wires from the buttons by pressing the latches. We remove the switches from the plastic case.
- We remove the speaker.
- We remove the front door glass. To do this, unscrew the bolts securing the glass plate to the bar and the bolt securing the door guide. We remove the guide, remove the glass seal, and remove the glass.
- We detach the ESP drive gearmotor from the block with the power wires.
- We unscrew the nuts securing the mechanism to the base of the door, the central and lower nuts.
- We take the mechanism out of the door hole. We inspect the mechanism for damage and replace parts. Next, we install the repaired power window in reverse order, or replace it with a new one.
Electric drives
Drives with electric motors are much more advanced. But they were installed on “classic” VAZ cars exclusively by car owners - this option was not provided at the factory. The main thing (according to those who have been producing these cars for almost 30 years) is wheels on an iron body and some kind of motor, as long as it drives this entire structure.
If you take a closer look, you will see that the designers did not bother themselves with comfort; they only thought about how to save on production. And in the car circuit there was no provision for connecting power windows. Therefore, you have to install all the wiring yourself.
But many car owners took on the responsibility of the factory and began installing power windows themselves. Most often, the choice falls on hinged lever mechanisms, which have several advantages:
- Quite low cost of the kit.
- Electric windows are easy to install.
- There is no need to look for components - everything needed for installation is already available, including wires and buttons.
- The devices are highly reliable, work quickly and do not make noise (the latter advantage is more relevant for modern Vesta than for the “seven”).
Connecting ESP without ignition
By default, the front door power windows on the Chevrolet Niva only work when the ignition is on. There are several ways to connect an ESP bypassing the central locking.
We will need a simple tool: a Phillips screwdriver, a thin screwdriver, wire cutters, and insulating tape. To replace the relay, we purchase a simple jumper, or we make it ourselves. Process: 1. We bridge the power legs of the relay, which supply power to the window regulator. To do this, remove the protective plastic cover. There are three to five relays under the fuse block.
Sequencing
The process of removing and installing glass on a Chevrolet Niva consists of 3 stages:
- dismantling the old part,
- cleaning the frame, preparing for installation,
- installation and fastening.
Front glass replacement
The operation does not require special skills or much time. To replace the windshield on a Chevrolet Niva, you need the help of a friend and a couple of hours of time.
- It is better to remove the decorative upholstery and rear view mirror first, otherwise fragments will get inside. We also remove the wipers.
- When all the tools are ready, and your friend has agreed to help, we begin dismantling. We make a through hole in the seal. Whatever it is, it doesn't matter. We insert a fishing line or string. We draw one edge from the outside, the other from the inside, thereby cutting the rubber.
- You can use the second method: scrape off the seal with a spatula, gradually squeezing out the material. The damaged canvas will completely crumble.
- Work with fragments with gloves, observing safety precautions.
- We remove the fragments, clean the lower groove from dirt or dust. We remove the remaining rubber and rust with a sharp stationery knife.
- We try on a new part, marking the marks with a pencil or marker.
- We treat the new part and the car frame with acetone or alcohol. To replace it, we put on a new seal and insert a thick rope cord into it.
- Apply adhesive sealant to the inner edge of the glass. Place tape on the outside. To facilitate installation, apply lubricant to the seal and soap solution to the lower groove.
- We start inserting from the bottom. As you insert it, pull out the cord, pressing the shield tightly to the body.
- Align. We attach the tape to the body. Leave it overnight.
- After complete drying, cut off the excess sealant with a knife.
Rear SMEs Niva Chevrolet
The rear doors of the Niva Chevrolet are equipped with mechanical windows.
They are not as convenient as electric ones, but are more reliable. The main element of the window lifter mechanism is the drive device. The drive consists of a simple set of elements: a pair of spur gears and a handle. The handle regulates the degree of opening of the window.
If the window regulator is broken, the window will not open when the handle is turned. There may be several reasons:
1. The handle slots are worn down. This is due to the soft plastic of the handle itself, at the junction with the gearbox shaft. The handle is replaced by choosing the option with a metal insert.
2. The gear teeth of the gearbox have ground down . The gearbox is a block of two gears in a housing, with space for a cable. The body is connected with rivets. To replace a worn-out gear, you need to drill out these fasteners and replace them with bolts after repair. It's easier to change the gearbox assembly.
3. The cable has broken . If this is the case, the handle rotates too easily. The cable is sold only assembled. You can find a suitable option, but it’s easier to change the entire window regulator.
4. The fastening of the cable to the base of the glass has become loose. This is the simplest failure. The cable slips into the mount and does not move the glass. It is necessary to remove the door trim and, by tightening the fastening bolts, adjust the position of the glass and the cable to each other.
Let's look at how to change the rear power windows:
- Remove the upholstery from the door.
- Unfasten the rods of the inner handle of the lock.
- Raise the glass all the way and fix it.
- We unscrew the center nuts securing the glass and window regulator.
- We unscrew the fastening nuts from the bottom and top and remove the window regulator assembly through the technological hole.
We looked at the main causes of power window failures on the front and rear doors and how to repair them. Use our tips for DIY repairs and save your family budget.
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Electric drive installation
Each set of electric windows comes with instructions that indicate the installation diagram of all drive elements, as well as a circuit diagram. It allows you to see how to connect electric windows to the vehicle's on-board network. The same instructions, which describe installing the drive on the “seven”, indicate how the holes in which the rack is attached are located relative to each other. Measure the distance using a ruler and caliper, mark the location of the holes using a marker.
Make a hole with a 5.5 mm drill inserted into a screwdriver or drill. The power window mechanism is installed through the right hole in the door. Next, align the holes in the rail with those you made in the door. All that remains is to secure the rail with 10mm bolts, which should be included in the installation kit.
Let's sum it up
As you can see, installing and connecting power windows, as well as power window buttons, is not the easiest procedure to install, but it is quite possible to do all the work yourself in an ordinary garage.
The main thing is to choose the right window regulator (and, if necessary, a window closer), and the diagram of the window regulators should be studied in advance in order to avoid errors when connecting.
Finally, we note that there are a large number of different window lift mechanisms, blocks, buttons, etc. on the market. In practice, it is recommended to buy complete and ready-made kits from trusted manufacturers rather than assemble a window regulator from individual elements.
Of course, high-quality components are also sold separately. However, this option is more suitable for repairing window regulators. If you assemble the entire kit, it may turn out to be significantly more expensive than purchasing a ready-made solution right away.
Preparatory work
Before connecting the power windows on the VAZ-2107, you need to put all the components in place and lay all the wiring. But first, make preparations - open the hood and completely disconnect the battery to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit. You start all work from the front door (driver's). First, remove the handle from the standard window regulator; you need to remove the lock washer from under it.
Using a flat screwdriver, carefully push the edges of the lock washer apart and pull the handle toward you. Then you need to use the same flat screwdriver to pry off the plastic plugs around the entire perimeter. They need to be removed to provide full access to the bolts that hold the casing in place. They need to be unscrewed with a key to “8”. After this, the casing is completely removed.
The window regulator slowly raises the glass - what should I do? There is a solution!
Hi all! Dear friends, you are all aware of what “jambs” and shortcomings each of us “happy” owners of domestic VAZ cars have to eliminate. Today’s article is another life-saving solution for those who are faced with the problem of poorly functioning beet lifters.
Electric windows (ESP) have been installed on foreign cars for decades, so, as a rule, there are no problems with them, which cannot be said about VAZs. On “our” swallows, such a miracle has been occurring for about 10 years, and as practice shows, the good old “meat grinders” in the form of a simple mechanical handle worked much more reliably. Get to the point! A defect was noticed on many models from 2109 to 2115, where, as a rule, the front right glass does not rise well. Moreover, the window lifters slowly raise somewhere from the middle or even lower, the glass slows down or stops rising altogether. At the same time, drivers help the ESP either with their hand or with a “clarion word”.
Why does the window regulator work poorly?
- The first reason is poor lubrication of the window lift mechanism. During operation, the ESP mechanism gradually loses lubrication, causing the windows to slowly lower or rise. The solution to the problem is to remove the door card, after which all working parts are lubricated. If after lubrication of the window lifter mechanism the problem is not eliminated, we continue to search for it.
- Often the reason may be poor adjustment of the glass itself. That is, a situation where the glass itself is not installed correctly on the lifting bar. In this case, it is necessary to remove the door card and adjust the position of the glass using the adjusting nut, and then check the operation of the ESP.
- Factory defect. If everything is ok with the mechanism and the glass is in place as it should, I advise you to check the guides along which the glass itself moves. That is, we are talking about a tunnel in which glass flows. As bitter experience shows, it is this manufacturing defect that often becomes the reason why the window lifter slowly raises. Due to the narrowing of the guides, additional resistance occurs, as a result of which the motor slows down and the glass slows down. Your task is to understand exactly where the resistance arises and try to correct it. The work is quite simple and consists of removing the velvets and slightly expanding the narrowing area of the metal.
- The fourth reason is poor lubrication of the guides. Sometimes, during operation, the guides, or it would be more correct to say the tunnel along which the glass moves, wear out, become abraded, become dirty, etc. As a result, the glass experiences excessive load and resistance, which naturally leads to the window lifter slowly raising the glass. The problem is solved quite simply, we take cotton swabs and clean the tunnel from dirt and sand. Then we take a lubricant, it can be silicone grease or WD-40, or something alternative, and lubricate the guides. We don’t skimp on the lubricant, but we don’t put it in excess either, we just generously coat the sliding areas of the glass, then check the result.
- Wear of velvet. Due to increased wear of the velvet covers, or more simply put, glass seals, the latter may rise more slowly. However, if this is the problem, then most likely the power windows on all doors will not work well. The solution to this problem is to replace the worn velvets, after which the problem should go away.
- The electric window drive is faulty or has poor contact. If there is something wrong with the motor that raises the window or there is poor contact in the connections, then you cannot avoid problems with raising and lowering the windows. Incorrect operation of the drive, as a rule, manifests itself in both directions, that is, raising/lowering, but most often, lowering is more difficult. In order to fix this problem, it is necessary to remove the electric motor, check its serviceability, lubricate it, etc. After this, we check the operation of the ESP again.
If all the steps described above are completed, then the problem should most likely go away; if this does not happen, you should continue the search or completely replace the ESP. That's all for me, I'm waiting for your solutions to this problem! Perhaps some of you have encountered a situation where the window regulator does not raise well, I would be grateful if you describe your case, as well as a way to solve this problem. Bye!
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