VAZ 2107 jet rods - repair, replacement, which ones to choose

The use of reaction rods in the car suspension improves the stability and controllability of the car when driving, especially on uneven roads. While driving, the rear axle experiences heavy loads with different directional vectors. Without reaction rods or with damaged rods, a car begins to behave dangerously under heavy loads on the suspension. It is the reaction rods that prevent the car from swaying and prevent it from tipping over during a sharp maneuver. Their condition critically affects driving safety.
Therefore, you should periodically monitor the condition of the jet rods and carry out timely repairs or replacement of these parts.

The agony of choosing VAZ jet rods

Currently, there are not many large manufacturers left that produce jet thrust for the VAZ 2107 and other classics. Their products differ in both price and reliability. Let's look at the most popular products.

Track

The product is very popular among owners of the “Seven”. These rods are distinguished by their high reliability and high price, which starts from 2100 rubles per set.

Trek thrusters are distinguished by high reliability and high price

The main difference between Trek is the heads for the bushings. Firstly, they are large, and secondly, they are attached to the rods by welding. The silent blocks on Tracks are also made of especially dense rubber, which significantly extends their service life.

Cedar

The overwhelming majority of “Sevens” that had previously rolled off the assembly line had jet thrusters installed specifically from “Kedr”, since this company has always been and remains the official supplier of AvtoVAZ.

Kedr rods have an affordable price and mediocre quality

The quality of Kedr is somewhat inferior to Trek. This is especially true for bushings and silent blocks. All this wears out quite quickly, and therefore they will have to be changed more often. But there is also a good side - a reasonable price. A set of “Cedar” rods can be purchased for 1,700 rubles.

Belmag

Despite the simplicity and reliability of Belmag rods, they have one significant drawback: they are not so easy to find on sale. Every year they are found less and less often on the shelves of auto parts stores. But if the car owner still manages to find them, then he can be congratulated, since he got a reliable product at a reasonable price. The cost of Belmag rods starts from 1800 rubles per set.

Today it is not so easy to find Belmag rods on sale

This, in essence, is the entire list of large manufacturers of good rods for the VAZ 2107. Of course, now there are a lot of smaller companies on the market that are quite aggressively promoting their products. But none of these companies gained much popularity among the owners of classics, and therefore it is inappropriate to mention them here.

So what should a driver choose from all of the above?

The answer is simple: the only criterion for choosing jet rods is the thickness of the car owner’s wallet. If a person is not short on funds, the best option would be to purchase Trek rods. Yes, they are expensive, but installing them will allow you to forget about problems with the suspension for a long time. If you don’t have enough money, it makes sense to look for products on the shelves. Well, if this idea is not crowned with success, there remains a third option - “Cedar” rods, which are sold everywhere.

Here we should say a few words about fakes. Knowing that car owners most often choose products from the three above-mentioned companies, unscrupulous manufacturers are now literally flooding the shelves with counterfeits. Moreover, in some cases, the fakes are made so skillfully that only a specialist can identify them. In such a situation, an ordinary driver can only focus on the price and remember: good things are expensive. And if there is a set of Trek rods on the counter for only a thousand rubles, then this is a serious reason to think about it. And don't rush into buying.

Which ones are better?

There are parts from several manufacturers on the market, among which the following options can be distinguished:

  • Cross and Detal-Resurs are two budget brands that produce suspension parts for the Niva. Price - from 1600 rub. per set.
  • Sitek - budget spare parts with rubber or polyurethane silent blocks. They are distinguished by their small wall thickness and low weight. Suitable for those whose route mainly runs on asphalt. Price - 2200 rub.
  • Niva Urban - inexpensive high-quality spare parts for Niva Chevrolet. The manufacturer produces rods for the entire VAZ family. Price - 2600 rub.
  • UG is another budget rod from a little-known company. Like Sitek, they are not intended for active off-road running. Price 3000 rub.
  • SC is a more expensive model, characterized by a rectangular cross-section. Judging by the mass, the manufacturer did not spare the metal. The quality of the seam does not cause any complaints from car owners. Price - 3400 rub.
  • Niva Extreme - reliable, durable suspension parts that are preferred by fans of extreme racing. The only drawback is the price, which is almost 5,000 rubles.

Note: the high price of Niva Extreme parts is due to their non-standard design. These are enhanced traction.

About the modernization of VAZ jet thrusts

Sometimes drivers decide to independently increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust.

Typically, modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:

  • installation of dual jet rods;
  • installation of reinforced jet thrusts.

Now a little more about each of the above operations.

Double rods VAZ 2107

Most often, drivers install dual rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure you don't have to do anything with the pulls. You simply purchase not one, but two sets of rods that are installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, you purchase not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts, on which this entire structure rests.

Installing double rods on the VAZ 2107 increases the overall reliability of the suspension

The obvious advantage of such modernization is the increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the tie rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a break in the tie rod is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, which cannot be heard this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “eaten up” small unevenness in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and holes while driving.

Reinforced traction for VAZ 2107

If the car is used in extreme conditions and drives mainly on dirt roads or on roads with very poor asphalt, the car owner can install enhanced torque rods on it. As a rule, drivers make such rods themselves. But recently, large manufacturers have begun to offer reinforced rods of their own production. For example, you can find Trek-Sport rods on sale, which are distinguished by the large size of silent blocks and an adjustable transverse rod. A pair of nuts on the crossbar allows you to slightly change its length. Which in turn affects the car’s handling and the overall stiffness of its suspension.

The reinforced rods have nuts that allow you to change the length of the rod and adjust the stiffness of the suspension

Of course, the driver will have to pay for increased reliability: the cost of a set of Track-Sport rods starts from 2,600 rubles.

Seven rear suspension design

The rear suspension design of the VAZ 2107 is quite simple, which is required by the presence of a rear axle. It is due to the presence of the rear axle that the rear wheels are rigidly connected to each other. The rear axle beam is suspended from the body using reaction rods, of which there are only 5 in the design - four longitudinal rods and one transverse rod.

The main purpose of the longitudinal rods is to prevent and prevent the beam from moving in two directions - forward and backward. Transverse traction is needed in order to prevent the beam from moving when lateral loads occur. You need to know all the suspension parts in order to identify faults and make correct repairs.

This is interesting! To combine the rods with the body part and the beam, special hinges are used, which are made of rubber material and are called silent blocks.

We continue to study the structure of the rear suspension of the seven, and it is worth highlighting another important element - the springs. The lower part of the springs is in contact with the bowl on the bridge beam. To soften contact and prevent squeaks, a thick rubber gasket is placed between the spring and the bowl. The upper part of the springs also rests against the body bowls through an insulating gasket.

Vehicle vibrations are damped using a pair of telescopic shock absorbers. The load that is formed when the vehicle moves on uneven roads is reduced due to the presence of seven three rubber compression seals in the rear suspension design. Two seals are located in the spring structure, and the third is located on the bottom above the rear axle housing. For ease of understanding of all of the above, below is a diagram of the rear suspension of the seven.

  • springs;
  • telescopic shock absorbers;
  • rod or transverse rod;
  • axle beam connecting the wheels;
  • longitudinal upper rods or rods;
  • longitudinal lower rods.

How to check the condition of the rear suspension elements of a VAZ 2107

The opinion that the seven’s suspension has increased strength and wear resistance is not at all a reason for not monitoring its condition. The suspension condition of a car that is operated in off-road conditions or on poorly paved roads (there are still a large number of them left in the post-Soviet countries) especially needs to be checked.

The easiest and most effective way to check the condition of the rear suspension of the seven is a visual inspection. To do this, the car needs to be driven onto an overpass or placed over an inspection hole. Particular attention should be paid to such suspension elements as:

Checking the condition of the jet rods on the VAZ 2107

Before we talk about checking jet thrusts, let’s ask ourselves: why is there a need for such a check at all? The fact is that when driving, jet rods are subjected to both lateral and torsional loads. Torsional loads occur when wheels hit large potholes or run over large rocks and other obstacles. This type of load is especially harmful for rods, or more precisely, for silent blocks in rods. It is the silent blocks that are the weak point of the jet thrust (there is simply nothing to break in the thrust itself: it is a metal rod with two eyes at the ends). In addition, the rubber parts of silent blocks are periodically exposed to reagents that are sprinkled on roads during icy conditions. As a result, cracks appear in the rubber and its service life is rapidly reduced.

The rubber part of the silent block on the rod has become completely unusable

If you believe the operating instructions, the new jet thrusts on the VAZ 2107 can travel at least 100 thousand km. But taking into account the conditions listed above, the actual service life of rods rarely exceeds 80 thousand km.

From the same instructions it follows that the state of the jet rods must be checked every 20 thousand km. However, car service technicians strongly recommend checking the rods every 10–15 thousand km in order to avoid extremely unpleasant surprises. To check the condition of the silent blocks in the rods, you will need an inspection hole and a mounting blade.

Test sequence

  1. The car is placed on an inspection hole (or, alternatively, on an overpass).
  2. The mounting blade is inserted behind the rod eye.

    The mounting blade is installed behind the rod eye

  3. Now you need to rest your spatula against the torque rod bracket and try to move the rod to the side along with the silent block. If this is successful, the silent block in the rod is worn out and needs to be replaced.
  4. A similar procedure must be done with all other silent blocks on the rods. If they move to the sides by even a few millimeters, they need to be changed urgently.

    During the inspection, the silent block shifted to the left by several millimeters. This is a clear sign of wear and tear

  5. In addition, the rods and lugs themselves should be inspected for wear, cracks, and scoring. If any of the above are found on the rods, you will have to replace not only the silent blocks, but also the damaged rods.

Diagnostics of rubber-metal joints

To check the condition of silent blocks, you need to use a pit or overpass. Without such amenities, it will be problematic to drive the seven, so there should be a pit in every garage. therefore, it can be repaired by hand without any problems. But you need to determine whether the VAZ-2107 silent blocks need to be replaced; the price of one is approximately 50 rubles. For a set of 8 silent blocks you will pay 400 rubles.

Carefully inspect the suspension on the lever, evaluate the appearance of the rubber-metal hinge. If the rubber has obvious damage - it has begun to become cracked, or there are any cuts at all, then all elements must be replaced. When carrying out repairs, try to do as much work as possible. Therefore, you not only change all eight silent blocks, but also, after assessing the condition of the balls, replace them if necessary. It is also worth looking at the condition and tightening the nut if necessary.

Changing thrusts according to your mind

Before changing the jet rods on a VAZ 2107, find a suitable place. The work must be done in a pit or overpass. As a last resort, find a flat area, lift and secure the desired part of the car.

For work, prepare:

  • required set of keys;
  • metal brush;
  • WD-40.

The algorithm for replacing jet rods is as follows:

1. Clean the joints of the reaction rods using a special brush. After treatment, be sure to spray the bolted joint with WD-40 and allow time to soak.

Note! The process of replacing rods is identical, so there is no point in describing how each rod changes separately.

2. It happens that you won’t be able to unscrew it the first time. Re-treat with Vedashka and wait a little more time.

For greater efficiency, you can take a wrench with a large “shoulder” and unscrew the nut (of course, if you work while lying under the car, then this option is unlikely to work). 3. As soon as the nut is level with the edge of the bolt, apply several blows with a hammer to dislodge the bolt from its “home” place, since it usually sticks strongly in the sleeve.

4. Using a wrench, unscrew the nut completely and remove the bolt; if it does not give in, use a drift.

5. If the rod was torn out alive, then you will have to remove the remains of the fastening. This can be done using a small mounting spatula.

6. Now move on to the second part of the fastening. Here you still have to unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber, pull out the spacer sleeve and move it to the side, this is done in order to gain access to the torque rod bolt

8. The nuts may be too tight—this is normal. This is explained by the fact that a self-locking nut is used for fastening. Its peculiarity is the presence of a nylon “side” along the edge, which makes the connection more dense.

9. Further - more difficult. The design feature is such that the bolt is installed on the gearbox side. As a result, hitting the bolt is not very convenient - to do this you need to unscrew everything unnecessary on the left side (remove the brake disc, remove the axle shaft, and so on).

Of course, doing such work is a serious investment of time and effort, so there is no point in doing such work. Try cleaning the connection with a brush, treating it with WD-40 and then try to unscrew photo 2.

If nothing works out again, then you can’t do without an angle grinder. Cut off the bolt head in the space between the silent block and the bracket. Perform a similar manipulation on the other side.

10. Using a mounting spatula, remove the rod from the bracket.

Please note that if the jet rod is cracked or broken, you should not weld it or try to restore it in any other way - this is dangerous.

It is better to install a new rod and no longer worry about possible failure of the unit.

Thrust installation is carried out according to this algorithm

1. Install the linkage into the front bracket first. Before inserting the bolt into the prepared place, be sure to lubricate it with nigrol.

2. Insert the torque rod into the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes don't line up.

If the rod was broken, then under the influence of loads the bridge would constantly move. This, in turn, caused the mount to move.

To align the holes, you need to take a mounting blade, rest it on the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes align. As soon as the openings are at the same level, insert the bolt and tighten the nut.

With simple manipulations, you can replace the jet thrust yourself and save some money on visiting a service station.

The main thing is not to miss the moment when the rod or bushing fails. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Full size

From the history of the rocket rod

As technology advanced in the automotive industry, engineers constantly worked to increase the speed of cars. Even before the outbreak of World War II, the developers came to the conclusion that the then low-tech and simple rear suspension, where a spring was used as an elastic part, was also a stabilizer.

So, when driving at high speeds, there were reasons that significantly influenced the controllability. This is body swaying, various rolls. If you move along the road at low speeds, this will not cause any discomfort or negativity; these forces will not be felt. However, if you increase the speed, such movement can cost the driver of the car his life.

To put it another way, automakers began to think and conduct tests in order to somehow remove the impact on the car of forces that could overturn it. For this, developers and engineers came up with a special system of levers, which laid the foundation for the creation of independent suspensions. The developments did not stop there. To ensure stability of the car body, jet thrust was created.

VAZ-2107, jet thrust: purpose, repair, replacement

VAZ-2107 is the latest model from the classics. This car was created on the basis of the Soviet “five”. The latter, in turn, originates from 2106, and that one - from the “troika” and “kopek”. What's all this for? Despite various modifications, many elements of these machines were similar (if not identical). All VAZ classic models have the same suspension scheme. At the front is an independent axle with coil springs, at the rear is a dependent axle with a Panhard rod. It is also called reactive. It is this element that we will talk about today.

Prices for these spare parts

Jet thrusts 2107 and VAZ-2105 of the “classic” type can be purchased in stores at prices ranging from 1,000 to 4,000 rubles. Price and quality depend on the manufacturer. Manufacturers often make these parts from fairly elastic steels. That is why various defects can be found on them. Before purchasing these products, you should carefully inspect them for possible chips and deformations, as well as other mechanical damage.

Purpose

It is worth noting that this traction was used by automakers long before the appearance of the classics. Thus, the element was used on cars with dependent leaf spring suspension. The design of the rod has not changed for years. On the “seven” this element is a long metal pipe installed under the bottom near the rear axle.

The part is attached to the body using rubber-metal bushings. Why is jet thrust needed on a VAZ-2107? This element is designed to prevent lateral rocking of the car. Since the Zhiguli had a dependent suspension at the rear, this car leaned heavily when cornering. To stabilize its body and increase safety, the machine is equipped with jet thrust. The VAZ-2107 is equipped with an element made of elastic steel grades. This material can withstand high loads for a long time and works well in compression and tensile strength.

FakeHeader

Comments 7

Hello. Two years have passed. I just came across your story. Now I was tightening the upper silent blocks, the rubber bands on the outside stupidly came out from under the washers. And I didn’t make it to 60. I’m sitting here scratching my turnips. True, my graphics are blurry. But the lower ones were also lubricated, they were tightened for 80 minutes and did not come out.

Hello! Thank you for remembering) The range is 60-90 N*m because our rubber products are produced according to specifications. It’s not clear to anyone what specifications a particular manufacturer has. You shouldn’t pinch the rubber bands—that’s a fact. My silent blocks drove for 3000, then I swapped them as is with levers onto a friend’s car, tightened them by eye - and it’s still running.

Malfunctions

In fact, the rod itself is not subject to wear. The main malfunctions concern the places where it is connected to the eye. Usually the rod breaks in the area of ​​the welds and bushings. This happens for several reasons:

  • Firstly, this section is the weakest in the structure and does not withstand the load well. Since the suspension is constantly subject to shock and vibration, over time the bushings wear out and can cause abnormal noise.
  • Secondly, the thrust is located under the bottom. It's no secret that this place is constantly exposed to salts, dirt and other reagents. As a result, corrosion appears on the surface of the rod and in the places where it is attached. Over time, it corrodes the metal so much that its strength is not enough to dampen vibrations and the rod simply breaks.

To prevent such problems from taking the owner by surprise, it is necessary to periodically monitor the condition of this element. If there are cracks and other deformations, it is necessary to replace the jet rods on the VAZ-2107.

Features of use

The described parts are constantly exposed to severe loads. The vehicle's reaction bars experience loads in both the longitudinal and transverse directions. However, since these knots are part of the undercut, they also work to twist.

Jet thrust is made mainly from steel of more elastic grades. This is necessary to be able to work in very harsh conditions for quite a long time.

The lugs are not part of the design. They are welded separately onto the rod. Welding seams often have a short service life and over time, and even under loads, can collapse. If the seam breaks, they must be replaced. Such spare parts for cars are inexpensive, you can buy them almost anywhere.

Signs

What may indicate the need to replace this element? If you do not take into account external inspection, a traction fault can be determined by the nature of the car’s behavior. Over time, the bushings become loose and the rod no longer performs its function.

The car rolls more when cornering, and dull knocks are also heard in the cabin. This indicates failed silent blocks. Well, if the rod is rusty and broken, part of it will simply drag along the ground. It is hardly possible not to notice such a malfunction. But how can you get home if your traction breaks on the way? You can hang part of it on some element under the bottom (for example, a muffler) using a wire and carefully move to the parking area and repair.

Malfunctions of the front suspension of the VAZ 2101

The service life of front suspension elements directly depends on the conditions and intensity of vehicle operation, as well as on the quality of the parts used. Since this or that malfunction manifests itself in different ways, it is worth dwelling on each of them in more detail.

Noises and knocks while driving

Extraneous sounds in the operation of the suspension can occur for a number of reasons:

  • failure of shock absorbers. In this case, it is necessary to replace the damaged shock absorbers;
  • wear of silent blocks. “Broken” hinges need to be replaced;
  • development of the transverse stabilizer in the rubber cushions. Inspection and replacement of worn-out products is required;
  • The shock absorber rod mount has come loose or the rubber cushions have become unusable. It is necessary to check the fasteners and, if necessary, replace rubber products;
  • ball joint malfunctions. When a working appears, the failed supports must be replaced;
  • increased clearance in wheel bearings. It is necessary to adjust the gap, and if the bearings are worn out, parts need to be replaced;
  • wheel imbalance. It is necessary to check and, if necessary, balance the wheels;
  • wheel rim damage. The disk needs to be restored or replaced;
  • spring breakage or sag. The front suspension springs need to be replaced;
  • damage to the bumpers. Rebound buffers that have become unusable require replacement;
  • loosening of the upper or lower arms. In this case, it is necessary to check and tighten the nuts and bolts.

Video: causes of knocking in the front suspension

The car is pulled to the side

If the vehicle pulls to the side, then there can be no question of any safety of movement. There may be several reasons for this behavior:

  • different tire pressures. The correct pressure must be checked and set;
  • The front wheels are at the wrong angle. A visit to a car service center is required to adjust the wheel alignment;
  • Excessive play in the wheel bearing. If there is a large gap, adjustment should be made;
  • The front suspension arms or axle are deformed. Replacement of damaged parts is required;
  • the springs have uneven subsidence. The front springs need to be replaced;
  • The brake mechanism is not fully released. The brake mechanism should be checked and the malfunction eliminated;
  • Tire tread has a big difference in wear. Worn tires need to be replaced;
  • wheel imbalance. Eliminated in the same way as with knocking in the suspension.

Suspension breakdowns

Sometimes in the operation of the suspension characteristic impacts of metal on metal occur, which is called breakdown. This indicates that one or another part of the suspension does not fulfill its function. The reasons for this phenomenon may be the following:

  • sag of front springs. Elastic elements need to be replaced;
  • The shock absorbers have become unusable. If damping devices break or fail, they should be replaced;
  • deformation of levers. Levers with changed geometry must be replaced with serviceable ones.

There can actually be many more faults in the front suspension. For example, the appearance of squeaks when driving over uneven surfaces may indicate the failure of silent blocks, oil smudges on shock absorbers indicate damage to the product and indicate the need to replace it, etc.

Jet thrust VAZ-2107 - price

Note that these elements are interchangeable with other VAZ models of the classic family. On average, the price of a set of VAZ-2107 jet rods ranges from one to two thousand rubles. Among quality products, reviews note traction from. What is the price for these jet rods for the VAZ-2107? The cost of the set is 1400 rubles. This price includes:

  • Transverse thrust.
  • Longitudinal left and right.
  • Longitudinal short.

Additionally, the kit includes torque bushings. How to replace this element? We'll talk about this below.

Rear linkages

To prevent longitudinal vibrations from affecting the bridge, it is held in place by longitudinal thrust. This design is distinguished by the fact that both ends are secured through silent blocks to the mounts on the bridge and on the body. The design of this mechanism can be seen in the photo below.

Often such a cross bar can be of considerable length. This is due to the fact that the bridge can move either down or up, and the travel is limited only by the travel of the shock absorber, which dampens vibrations. In order to ensure mobility, the rod is made according to the principle of a lever. Even if the bridge moves through the entire stroke of the shock absorber, the silent block will not twist.

Tools

So, to replace it, we need to prepare a standard set of tools (heads, wrenches), a hammer, a mounting blade, as well as universal grease VD-40. In the absence of one, you can use any analogue from, “Mannol” and “Laurel”.

These products cope no worse with soured bolts. We will also need a metal brush. We will use it to clean the head of the bolts from accumulated dirt.

Let's get started

Having thoroughly cleaned the joints with a brush, treat them generously with universal lubricant. You need to wait until it completely penetrates inside. Next, select the head of the required size (19) and unscrew the nut that holds the rod on the free side. If it is tight, you can re-spray the threaded joint with lubricant. When the end of the bolt is level with the nut, take a hammer in your hands. It is necessary to strike the bolt several times and remove the latter out. After that we move on to the second side. To remove it, you need to unscrew the lower shock absorber mount.

Next, remove the spacer sleeve of the elastic element. This way we will get access to the second bolt of the VAZ-2107 jet thrust. If the nuts are difficult to unscrew, and even lubricant does not help, you can cut off the bolt with a grinder. Please note: do not knock out this element with a hammer, since it is close to the gearbox. At the next stage, you need to get the remains of the rod itself out.

Installation

If a grinder was used, it is important to remove all remnants of fasteners with a mounting spatula. How do you then replace the VAZ-2107 jet rods? After this, the new element is installed in the previous mounting locations. But installation may be difficult. Since the old rod could no longer cope with its task, the bridge could “move” a few degrees to the side.

To ensure that the new link is properly secured, rest the mounting blade against the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes line up. Next, tighten all the bolts and nuts. The same procedure is performed on the second side. For tightening, use the same wrench and a 19mm hex head.

Silent block - the weakest link

This is one of the weakest elements in the described part. But he is simply irreplaceable. There are several reasons for this. The condition of silent blocks also needs to be closely monitored. These parts can crack under the influence of severe loads from the bottom of them.

The silent block of the jet thrust will crack, then the rubber will tear, and as a result the thrust will lose the ability to move relative to its base. It is recommended to replace before cracks appear. Otherwise, you risk your own safety.

These units are located under the bottom of the machine. It is in such places that the metal of the car is very vulnerable. Corrosion has a very strong effect on many structural elements. If the car has non-tubular type mechanisms, then there is no danger. But in the case of a welded system, you need to monitor it as carefully as possible, and if possible, treat the part with Movil.

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