what are jet thrusts for vaz 2106 for?

The very first cars equipped with suspension - springs - behaved quite dangerously under heavy loads. The fact is that forces act on the car in different directions, and a conventional spring at first was highly susceptible to excessive “looseness”.

That is, the car under heavy loads (driving at high speed, on bumpy roads, sharply entering a turn) began to behave unstably - it swayed, began to “spring”, and could even tip over.

Therefore, it was necessary to solve this problem as quickly as possible. The result of this was the development of reaction rods - a special part of the suspension design that helped stabilize the body, and therefore increase driver safety.

Jet thrust VAZ 2106

VAZ 2106 torque rods, or, as they are correctly called, torque rods, perform an important function in a car - they are responsible for the stability of the car on the road.
Without them, the VAZ 2106 will “walk” along the highway on its own, practically not paying attention to steering wheel turns. The most important sign that the jet thrusts of the VAZ 2106 2107 require close attention is a knocking sound in the rear axle area and capricious behavior of the car while driving. Problems detected in time will prevent the development of the process, spend significantly less money on car repairs and even avoid an emergency.

If during the inspection of the reaction rods no flaws are found, you need to inspect other components of the VAZ 2106 car, but if the problem is still in the reaction rods, then you should not rush and change the entire reaction rod assembly - this will cost more and is not always necessary. A more thorough inspection will allow you to determine the degree of wear of this unit - it is quite possible that it will be enough just to replace the rubber or metal bushings of the torque rods and the VAZ 2106 will “get on its wheels” again.

The process of replacing torque rod bushings is more complicated, but if you have the tools and follow the instructions, it is quite possible to do it yourself without taking the car to a service center. However, do not forget that work such as replacing reaction rods (rods) on a VAZ “classic” will require you to have at least minimal knowledge about the components of the car, their structure and principle of operation. Otherwise, there is a risk of ruining the situation, even if everything is done exactly according to pictures or articles on the Internet, since there are many nuances in car repair, including those related to the operation of each specific car.

Before you start repairing your car's jet rods, study it thoroughly or resort to the services of auto mechanics.

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MALFUNCTIONS OF THE REAR SUSPENSION OF VAZ 2107

Rear suspension elements do not fail as often as the front ones, but sometimes they also have to be replaced, since even the most reliable parts wear out over time. The breakdown or damage of a particular product is indicated by characteristic signs that allow you to correctly identify the problem and quickly repair the suspension.

KNOCKING

Knocks in the rear suspension can be of different types and the reasons for their occurrence are also different:

knocking sound when starting. The malfunction occurs when one of the rear axle reaction rods or the brackets that hold them break. To solve the problem, it is necessary to inspect the suspension, identify the damaged rod and replace it;
knocking noises while driving. Broken silent blocks of jet rods can knock. Over time, the metal bushing simply begins to dangle in the rubber, and the bridge “walks,” which leads to the appearance of extraneous sounds. The malfunction is treated by replacing the rubber bushings of the rear axle rods;
knocking noise when the suspension is compressed too hard. This happens when the bump stop is damaged, causing the suspension to “break through.” Therefore, it is necessary to inspect the buffer elements and replace the failed ones.

VIDEO: KNOCKING ON ZHIGULI VEHICLES WHEN DRIVING AWAY

SUSPENSION BREAKOUTS

Such a concept as “breakdown” occurs when the suspension does not cope with its function. There may be several reasons for this:

rear axle overload. The suspension can often “punch” due to an overloaded rear axle, for example, if the car is heavily loaded. In this case, you need to unload the rear axle;
breakage or settling of the spring. Despite the fact that the springs are made of durable steel, they still sag over time, especially with frequent transportation of goods. The way out of the situation is to install new or stiffer springs;
failure of shock absorbers. If the shock absorbers are unable to dampen vibrations, then full operation of the suspension is impossible. The shock-absorbing elements will need to be replaced.

THE CAR IS PULLING TO THE SIDEWAY

Sometimes with the suspension of the VAZ “Seven” there are such nuances when the car pulls to the side. Let's list the reasons why this can happen:

spring breakage or settling. Due to a damaged spring, the car will stand unevenly on the road, which may cause it to move to one side. The spring will need to be replaced;

Damage to the spring may cause the vehicle to pull to one side.
displacement of the rear axle due to wear of the silent blocks of the reaction rods. The appearance of free play in the suspension elements leads to unstable behavior of the car on the road, which indicates the need to replace rubber-metal components.

There can be many more reasons why a car pulls to the side. In addition, a malfunction is possible not only in the suspension, but also in other components, for example, with a flat tire.

OTHER SOUNDS

Extraneous noises and sounds can come not only from faulty suspension elements, but also from the chassis, which is not always easy to determine with insufficient experience. While driving, a hum from the rear axle gearbox itself may be heard from the rear of the car, which requires adjustment or replacement. In addition to the gearbox, the axle bearings may hum as a result of wear or a small amount of lubricant. When the springs sag, the wheels may touch the plastic wheel arch liners when cornering, if they are installed. They can also simply loosen the wheel bolts if they are loosely tightened, which will lead to extraneous noise. Therefore, each specific case needs to be dealt with separately, where and at what moment this or that sound comes from. Only in this case will it be possible to more accurately diagnose the malfunction.

From the history of the rocket rod

As technology advanced in the automotive industry, engineers constantly worked to increase the speed of cars. Even before the outbreak of World War II, the developers came to the conclusion that the then low-tech and simple rear suspension, where a spring was used as an elastic part, was also a stabilizer.

So, when driving at high speeds, there were reasons that significantly influenced the controllability. This is body swaying, various rolls. If you move along the road at low speeds, this will not cause any discomfort or negativity; these forces will not be felt. However, if you increase the speed, such movement can cost the driver of the car his life.

To put it another way, automakers began to think and conduct tests in order to somehow remove the impact on the car of forces that could overturn it. For this, developers and engineers came up with a special system of levers, which laid the foundation for the creation of independent suspensions. The developments did not stop there. To ensure stability of the car body, jet thrust was created.

Installation features.

At this stage, the main part of the magic created by the Papuan service happens. In the fairy tale, the toad turned into a princess, but here it’s the other way around. Transformation of the princess into a toad, vile and disgusting.

The suspension silent blocks must be tightened while the vehicle is standing on the ground. Or put the car on the ground, measure the distance from the wheel to a point on the wing. Raise the machine on the lift again and tighten the SBL to this distance. If you see that your suspension silent blocks are being tightened on a lift without measuring them, run away from there. The resource of any SBL of the best quality will in this case amount to several hundred kilometers.
AvtoVAZ provides a very specific tightening force for the lower axle nut. Moreover, in the Fiat service manual, it is written separately that this must be done with a torque wrench. The tightening force was specified as 17-18 kg. More modern manuals indicate a more democratic force of 105-170 Newtons, or 10-17 kg. To ensure this force, you need a meter-long wrench. Therefore, when a locksmith has two wrenches or, even more fun, a ratchet in his hands, then.....look for another service.

Rear linkages

To prevent longitudinal vibrations from affecting the bridge, it is held in place by longitudinal thrust. This design is distinguished by the fact that both ends are secured through silent blocks to the mounts on the bridge and on the body. The design of this mechanism can be seen in the photo below.

Often such a cross bar can be of considerable length. This is due to the fact that the bridge can move either down or up, and the travel is limited only by the travel of the shock absorber, which dampens vibrations. In order to ensure mobility, the rod is made according to the principle of a lever. Even if the bridge moves through the entire stroke of the shock absorber, the silent block will not twist.

Prices for these spare parts

Jet thrusts 2107 and VAZ-2105 of the “classic” type can be purchased in stores at prices ranging from 1,000 to 4,000 rubles. Price and quality depend on the manufacturer. Manufacturers often make these parts from fairly elastic steels. That is why various defects can be found on them. Before purchasing these products, you should carefully inspect them for possible chips and deformations, as well as other mechanical damage.

Which ones are better?

There are parts from several manufacturers on the market, among which the following options can be distinguished:

Cross and Detal-Resurs are two budget brands that produce suspension parts for the Niva. Price - from 1600 rub. per set.
Sitek - budget spare parts with rubber or polyurethane silent blocks. They are distinguished by their small wall thickness and low weight. Suitable for those whose route mainly runs on asphalt. Price - 2200 rub.
Niva Urban - inexpensive high-quality spare parts for Niva Chevrolet. The manufacturer produces rods for the entire VAZ family. Price - 2600 rub.
UG is another budget rod from a little-known company. Like Sitek, they are not intended for active off-road running. Price 3000 rub.
SC is a more expensive model, characterized by a rectangular cross-section. Judging by the mass, the manufacturer did not spare the metal. The quality of the seam does not cause any complaints from car owners. Price - 3400 rub.
Niva Extreme - reliable, durable suspension parts that are preferred by fans of extreme racing. The only drawback is the price, which is almost 5,000 rubles.

Features of use

The described parts are constantly exposed to severe loads. The vehicle's reaction bars experience loads in both the longitudinal and transverse directions. However, since these knots are part of the undercut, they also work to twist.

Jet thrust is made mainly from steel of more elastic grades. This is necessary to be able to work in very harsh conditions for quite a long time.

The lugs are not part of the design. They are welded separately onto the rod. Welding seams often have a short service life and over time, and even under loads, can collapse. If the seam breaks, they must be replaced. Such spare parts for cars are inexpensive, you can buy them almost anywhere.

Reinforced rods

The appearance of cracks between the rod base and the lugs will shorten the service life of the parts. This problem can even cause an accident - the car suddenly pulls to the side when the traction breaks.

To avoid unpleasant surprises, special reinforced parts are installed in the rear suspension. They are made of alloy or cold-rolled steel and differ from conventional ones in the diamond-shaped section of the base and powerful welding seams that hold the lugs.

Reinforced rods differ from standard ones in the following characteristics:

Reduced weight of parts.
Improved paint coating that prevents corrosion of elements.
High strength welded seams.
Increased resistance to torsion, compression and tension.

Installation of reinforced rods is recommended for full use of the Chevrolet Niva off-road. They don't offer much benefit for city or highway driving. Under gentle operating conditions, the strength of standard rods is quite sufficient, so there is no point in overpaying for reinforced parts.

Silent block - the weakest link

This is one of the weakest elements in the described part. But he is simply irreplaceable. There are several reasons for this. The condition of silent blocks also needs to be closely monitored. These parts can crack under the influence of severe loads from the bottom of them.

The silent block of the jet thrust will crack, then the rubber will tear, and as a result the thrust will lose the ability to move relative to its base. It is recommended to replace before cracks appear. Otherwise, you risk your own safety.

These units are located under the bottom of the machine. It is in such places that the metal of the car is very vulnerable. Corrosion has a very strong effect on many structural elements. If the car has non-tubular type mechanisms, then there is no danger. But in the case of a welded system, you need to monitor it as carefully as possible, and if possible, treat the part with Movil.

Diagnosis of silent block faults

Replacement of parts on a Chevrolet Niva is carried out for the right and left levers according to the same instructions.

Raise the car using a jack. Remove the wheel. Place a support under the lower arm. Using a jack, raise the lower arm or, conversely, lower the car slightly to increase the load on the suspension. It is best to use a second jack to fully compress the spring. This way you will achieve this effect faster. Install the tie down spring and then lower the second jack to relieve stress on the anti-roll bar. Release the lever from the stabilizer clamp. Remove the shock absorber mounting bolt from the eye, having first unscrewed it. Remove the three nuts that secure the ball joint to the arm. Remove the second jack and remove the spring. Unscrew the lower arm axle nut and use a spacer to knock out the axle. Remove the lever

Pay attention to the location of the front suspension axle shims. Try to remember their number so that there are no problems when reassembling

Remove the nuts from the upper arm axis. Remove them along with the washers. Using a puller, press the old parts out of the lever lugs. If this cannot be done with a tool, then you need to use a blowtorch or gas torch. Clean the seat. Install new silent blocks and press them with the same tool. Before this, it is advisable to coat the lever and bushing with graphite lubricant, Litol or Movil.

Now you need to install the lever in place, making sure to place the shims correctly. Before you install this part, you can change the silent blocks on the upper arm. This operation is carried out according to simpler instructions:

Tie the front hub together with the caliper to the body so as not to break the brake hose during the work.
Remove the upper arm by unscrewing the bolts securing the axle and arm to the ball joint.

The rest of the work follows the same principles as when installing parts on the lower arm. First, the worn bushing is removed with a puller, and then a new one is installed in its place. Don't forget to clean the seat of the upper assembly and treat it with lubricant. After installing this part of the suspension, carry out final assembly.

The final tightening of the silent blocks should only be carried out with the machine standing on the ground. The Niva manufacturer recommends tightening the lower axle nut with a force of 100-170 N. After replacing the components on both sides, it is recommended to have a wheel alignment performed at a service station. This will help increase the life of the suspension and tires.

It is impossible to accurately indicate the service life of silent blocks, because everything depends on the quality of the rubber insert and the operating conditions of the vehicle. But everyone understands that sooner or later they will have to be replaced. There are several methods of self-diagnosis. All these methods can be implemented comprehensively in order to make an accurate verdict regarding repairs.

Any driver will immediately feel changes for the worse. But similar symptoms also appear when the ball joints are faulty, so you will have to use the method of elimination.

For convenience, you should hang the wheel. Giving it variable forces at the top and bottom points, you need to rock the hub in a vertical plane. The presence of play is very easy to determine

It is important to make sure that the source of this play is the silent block and not the ball joint. It is necessary to visually inspect the entire lever mounting assembly

Small cracks are allowed on the elastic bands, but there should not be large breaks. A rupture of the rubber rim, which is visible from under the bushing, is not yet a cause for concern, but a sign of imminent failure of the silent block. The axis of rotation of the lever and the axis of the silent block must coincide. If they are at an angle to each other, then this indicates that the rubber has begun to deteriorate, and under load the inner bushing has shifted relative to the outer one.

Replacing jet rods

Replacement may be necessary if the rod is cracked or if knocking noises are heard when driving. It must be remembered that a replacement not made in time will lead to loss of movement stability. This is the risk of an accident.

To perform the replacement yourself, you need to prepare the necessary tools. To work, you will need a metal brush, keys, and WD 40 universal lubricant. VAZ jet rods can be bought at any store. They are inexpensive.

The first step is to clean all the joints very well with a brush. Then all this needs to be generously filled with universal WD 40 and left for a while until the lubricant takes effect. Next, unscrew the nut that holds the rod on the free side. It will go very tight. A pipe may be needed. When the nut is even with the end of the bolt, you need to tap the bolt with a hammer. The latter sticks and cannot be removed so easily. Next, remove the bolt and nut.

Now the same needs to be done on the other side. You will need to unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber. The nuts here will also be unscrewed with noticeable force; If everything is unscrewed, you can get the rod. There's no need to try to fix it. These car parts cannot be repaired. After the operation, you will have a working suspension, no knocks and a high level of safety when driving. That's all.

So, we found out what jet propulsion is and how to replace it on domestic cars.

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Replacing the transverse rod of Niva VAZ 2121

I will show you using the left side as an example, since there are certain nuances there. To unscrew the nut, you need to hold the bolt on the back side, and you can only reach there with the head, approximately as shown in the photo below:

On the reverse side, we use a wrench with a long lever to move the threads out of place. If the nut is then unscrewed normally, you can use a ratchet to do everything as quickly and conveniently as possible:

After this, to knock out the bolt, you can use a wooden block or the handle of a hammer, knocking on the back side:

And then you can do the same with the second side of the transverse rod, after which you can remove it and replace it with a new one if necessary.

The price of a set of new rods for the Niva VAZ 2121 is 1,100 rubles.

Double jet thrusts - what's the point?

The idea of a hard rear appeared in my head quite spontaneously. An acquaintance told me that it’s easier than a steamed turnip - I bought 4 bolts for the rear shock absorbers (they are the longest), 2 long rods, and just installed it, and the effect is phenomenal, they say the ass is definitely even more rigid... Well, I installed it... well... it’s not difficult... Yes, and fueled the memories of torn rods for 1300 rubles from the car market with silent blocks 2108, for those who don’t remember - here’s a photo

and in terms of money it’s not that expensive. In short, it’s done, in one day, literally. I bought 4 long bolts (cost about 200r) and 2 long rods (500r), and of course the installation was priceless. Newly purchased rods are black, and those that were already installed are green. I decided to make the green ones on the outside and hide the black ones on the inside. It's done in literally an hour. More photos

I tried on the wheels - I rubbed the outer rods (because wheels with a width of 185, 175 would not rub) - I put 5mm spacers under the wheels - the problem was solved. And no matter how simple everything looked - I had to work with a grinder - a piece of meat for attaching the Panhard rod did not provide room for the nut of a new long bolt - I cut off a piece of meat (the design did not become weaker). Now I am planning to install double short rods...waiting for my salary. And actually, what is the point? — the rear has become so much stiffer that it is almost unnoticeable, but safety has greatly increased. Everything was not done in vain

Tie rod bushings VAZ 2101, 2123 Chevrolet Niva 10 pcs CS-20 red polyurethane COMFORT 05797

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By courier outside the EKAD, IN THE EVENING, up to 20 km, from 20 to 22 hours

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We independently change jet thrust on a VAZ 2107

The basis of safe driving is the stability of the car on the road. This rule applies to both trucks and passenger cars. And the VAZ 2107 is no exception. The handling of this car has always left much to be desired. To somehow make life easier for drivers, engineers developed a jet thrust system for the “Seven”. But any part, as we know, can fail. And then the driver will be faced with the question: is it possible to change a broken rod with your own hands? Yes, you can. Let's try to figure out how this is done.

Basic faults

Chevrolet Niva suspension parts are designed for different service life.

The levers, beam and anti-roll bar do not need to be changed even after 100-200 thousand kilometers.

But rubber-metal hinges, boots and bushings gradually lose their properties even while parked.

VAZ-2123 owners have to deal with the following malfunctions:

Wear of silent blocks, ball joints.
Damage or cracking of anthers.
Reduced performance of shock absorbers.
Breakage of jet rods.

In addition to replacing faulty parts, it is necessary to regularly check and adjust the angles of the front wheels.

Otherwise, the car's handling deteriorates, and the tires begin to wear out rapidly. Wheel alignment is checked every 10-15 thousand kilometers and after very strong impacts when falling into road potholes.

Purpose of thrust rods on the VAZ 2107

The purpose of the thrust rods on the VAZ 2107 is simple: to prevent the car from “walking” on the road and swaying strongly when entering sharp turns and when hitting various obstacles. This problem has been known since the days of early cars. They didn’t know about any jet thrust at that time, and the cars were equipped with ordinary springs. The result was natural: the car easily overturned, and it was incredibly difficult to drive. Over time, the car suspension was improved: a system of long rods began to be installed in it, which were supposed to take on part of the loads arising from road unevenness or due to an overly aggressive driving style. On the VAZ 2107 and other classic Zhiguli models, there are five jet rods: a pair of long ones, a pair of short ones, plus a large transverse rod, which serves as the basis of the entire traction system. All this is installed near the rear axle of the car.

This system can only be seen from the inspection hole, where all work on replacing broken rods is carried out.

Signs that the rods require replacement

Typically, a problem with torque rods manifests itself in the form of vibrations when starting off or changing gears. If these symptoms occur, it is necessary to carry out an external inspection of the rods for malfunctions. To do this, the car is placed on a pit or viewing platform and the welding points and the condition of the rubber bands are examined. It is also necessary to check the backlash of the reaction rods. If there are problems, replacement is required.

As a rule, the entire set is changed completely, since the load on them is distributed evenly and if there are problems with one, it may soon be necessary to replace the other rod.

About the choice of jet thrusts

Currently, there are not many large manufacturers left that produce jet thrust for the VAZ 2107 and other classics. Their products differ in both price and reliability. Let's look at the most popular products.

Traction "Track"

The product is very popular among owners of the “Seven”. These rods are distinguished by their high reliability and high price, which starts from 2100 rubles per set.

The main difference between Trek is the heads for the bushings. Firstly, they are large, and secondly, they are attached to the rods by welding. The silent blocks on Tracks are also made of especially dense rubber, which significantly extends their service life.

Rods "Cedar"

The overwhelming majority of “Sevens” that had previously rolled off the assembly line had jet thrusters installed specifically from “Kedr”, since this company has always been and remains the official supplier of AvtoVAZ.

The quality of Kedr is somewhat inferior to Trek. This is especially true for bushings and silent blocks. All this wears out quite quickly, and therefore they will have to be changed more often. But there is also a good side - a reasonable price. A set of “Cedar” rods can be purchased for 1,700 rubles.

Belmag rods

Despite the simplicity and reliability of Belmag rods, they have one significant drawback: they are not so easy to find on sale. Every year they are found less and less often on the shelves of auto parts stores. But if the car owner still manages to find them, then he can be congratulated, since he got a reliable product at a reasonable price. The cost of Belmag rods starts from 1800 rubles per set.

This, in essence, is the entire list of large manufacturers of good rods for the VAZ 2107. Of course, now there are a lot of smaller companies on the market that are quite aggressively promoting their products. But none of these companies gained much popularity among the owners of classics, and therefore it is inappropriate to mention them here.

So what should a driver choose from all of the above?

The answer is simple: the only criterion for choosing jet rods is the thickness of the car owner’s wallet. If a person is not short on funds, the best option would be to purchase Trek rods. Yes, they are expensive, but installing them will allow you to forget about problems with the suspension for a long time. If you don’t have enough money, it makes sense to look for products on the shelves. Well, if this idea is not crowned with success, there remains a third option - “Cedar” rods, which are sold everywhere.

Here we should say a few words about fakes. Knowing that car owners most often choose products from the three above-mentioned companies, unscrupulous manufacturers are now literally flooding the shelves with counterfeits. Moreover, in some cases, the fakes are made so skillfully that only a specialist can identify them. In such a situation, an ordinary driver can only focus on the price and remember: good things are expensive. And if there is a set of Trek rods on the counter for only a thousand rubles, then this is a serious reason to think about it. And don't rush into buying.

Mileage 97 thousand. km. Major repairs - universal joint, torque rods, trapezoid, ball joints. How much money?

Well, brothers Chevy drivers. It’s time to repair my beloved Shevik again, because after recent driving, an unpleasant sound appeared in the rear of the car in the area of the cardan - sometimes a grinding sound, sometimes as if something was whistling (as my wife says, the cricket was whistling again). On the last fishing trip, it pulled off the track and when its bottom hit a pothole, my soul immediately began to ache. Apparently, this blow was the last, and after it unpleasant sounds appeared.

It’s clear that driving like this is absolutely uncomfortable, it feels like something is going to break. Plus, the lock has become very difficult to turn on; sometimes you have to drive back and forth to turn it on. Previously, it turned on without problems, but it can be difficult to turn off, sometimes it gets stuck.

In general, bad sounds appeared and I immediately turned my feet (wheels) to very good guys, from whom I now constantly get repairs. They changed my shock absorbers and brakes.

Without stopping at the service center, I drove a couple of meters, and the master listened to this whistle. He says “the crosspiece has flown.” Okay, we drove into the pit, looked and, as usually happens, the trouble began to increase))

It turned out that the rear cardan was being replaced (both of its crosspieces were completely loose with no hope of recovery), the front cardan was also wobbly, but only closer to the “face” of the car. To eliminate this problem, it was also necessary to buy a front crosspiece.

I took a couple of photos of the “worn out” rear card:

Unfortunately, there is nothing to stitch in, only replacement:

Next I ask the question - why did the cardan crack? The master shows - do you see the jet thrusts? They “sat down”, because of them there was play in the cardan and it “staggered”. And he recommended that if you want the new cardan to last as long as possible, install new jet rods. This is what the “tired” old ones looked like:

We wrote down the shopping front on a piece of paper and went to the store. The store has a decent selection, the cost of cardans is 2200 for a regular VAZ one and 3900 for a branded one, which will last longer. And then I was simply stunned - my wife said: “We take the best.” I really didn’t expect it)) So, here are the photos of the purchases:

Driveshaft Belkard

So, we took the rear cardan (it comes assembled with crosspieces on both sides) for 3,900 rubles. Produced by Belkard, here is a photo:

Reinforced jet thrust SITEK

Jet thrusts were for 700 rubles a set and for 1600. Cheaper - regular, 1600 - reinforced, especially for increased loads. They took them. Photo:

Let's open the box :))

K/V cross assembly - 1 piece

The front cardan is still breathing, but one of the two crosspieces has grunted - 700 rubles.

This is what it looks like in real life:

Oh yes, when purchasing, make sure you include the retaining rings:

Steering linkage set

At the same time, the guys took a look at the front end and had to take one set - TRACK, produced in the Chelyabinsk region, Miass.

Plus, the guys saw that the front brake hose was all cracked - it was also replaced, on the left it was worn out, on the right it was normal, apparently the owner had changed it before me. Like this:

During the work, while the front left trapezoid was being installed, it turned out that the upper ball joints were also “covered.” It is noteworthy that on my Chevy Niva there were balls from the regular Niva 2121, they were on spacers. As the masters said, they had never seen anything like this before; it was done in order to “lift up” the face of the car. The spacers for the ball joint were specially machined. In terms of money - another plus of 700 rubles for a set of 2 tops.

Total came out: 7400 rubles + 700 balls.

Over 97,000 km, everything got stuck there, and the jet thrusts had to be cut out with gas. They made Shevik for me from 11 pm to 8 pm. They charged 4,900 rubles for the work (this amount also includes wheel alignment after installing the steering rods).

In total, the repair cost me 13,000 rubles and a day without a car))

After the replacement, the car immediately felt fresher, and as soon as I got behind the wheel, I immediately felt the changes. There is some density on the highway, the car runs confidently, it doesn’t wobble like before. Apparently, there was previously a play in the cardan, which caused the other components of the car to break down.

The repair was not cheap for me, but now my Shevik is again ready for adventure, dirt and off-road. And I don’t mind the money for this, it’s drive, adrenaline, fun and interesting. And of course, the machine needs to be repaired as soon as you sense something wrong in its operation.

Good luck to everyone on the roads and less breakdowns))

About modernization of jet thrusts

Sometimes drivers decide to independently increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Typically, modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:

Now a little more about each of the above operations.

Twin rods

Most often, drivers install dual rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure you don't have to do anything with the pulls. You simply purchase not one, but two sets of rods that are installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, you purchase not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts, on which this entire structure rests.

The obvious advantage of such modernization is the increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the tie rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a break in the tie rod is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, which cannot be heard this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “eaten up” small unevenness in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and holes while driving.

Reinforced traction

If the car is used in extreme conditions and drives mainly on dirt roads or on roads with very poor asphalt, the car owner can install enhanced torque rods on it. As a rule, drivers make such rods themselves. But recently, large manufacturers have begun to offer reinforced rods of their own production. For example, you can find Trek-Sport rods on sale, which are distinguished by the large size of silent blocks and an adjustable transverse rod. A pair of nuts on the crossbar allows you to slightly change its length. Which in turn affects the car’s handling and the overall stiffness of its suspension.

Of course, the driver will have to pay for increased reliability: the cost of a set of Track-Sport rods starts from 2,600 rubles.

REAR SUSPENSION - DESCRIPTION

The rear suspension of the VAZ 2107 is practically no different from the mechanism of other classic Zhiguli cars. The dependent design is simple, but has some features. Its main structural elements are:

springs;
telescopic shock absorbers;
rods;
beam.

Design of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2107: 1. Lower longitudinal rod; 2. Lower insulating gasket of the suspension spring; 3. Lower support cup of the suspension spring; 4. Compression stroke buffer; 5. Bolt for fastening the upper longitudinal rod; 6. Bracket for fastening the upper longitudinal rod; 7. Suspension spring; 8. Compression stroke buffer support; 9. Upper spring gasket ring; 10. Upper spring insulating gasket; 11. Upper support cup of the suspension spring; 12. Pressure regulator drive lever support; 13. Rubber bushing for the pressure regulator drive lever; 14. Shock absorber mounting stud washer; 15. Rubber bushings for shock absorber eye; 16. Rear shock absorber mounting bracket; 17. Additional compression progress buffer; 18. Spacer washer; 19. Spacer sleeve of the lower longitudinal rod; 20. Rubber bushing of the lower longitudinal rod; 21. Bracket for fastening the lower longitudinal rod; 22. Bracket for fastening the upper longitudinal rod to the bridge beam; 23. Spacer sleeve for transverse and longitudinal rods; 24. Rubber bushing for the upper longitudinal and transverse rods; 25. Rear shock absorber; 26. Bracket for attaching the transverse rod to the body; 27. Brake pressure regulator; 28. Protective cover for pressure regulator; 29. Pressure regulator drive lever axis; 30. Pressure regulator mounting bolts; 31. Pressure regulator drive lever; 32. Clip of the lever support sleeve; 33. Support sleeve; 34. Cross rod; 35. Cross bar mounting bracket support plate

REAR BEAM

The main structural element of the rear suspension is a beam (stocking) or rear axle, through which the rear wheels are connected to each other. With the help of this unit, not only the suspension elements are fixed, but also the rear axle structure - the gearbox and axle shafts - is assembled together.

The main element of the rear suspension is the stocking

SHOCK ABSORBERS

The main function performed by suspension shock absorbers is vibration damping, i.e., preventing the car from rocking when driving over uneven surfaces. The presence of such an element and its proper operation directly affects the predictability of the car’s behavior, as well as the comfort of movement and extending the service life of other suspension elements. The upper part of the shock absorber is attached to the power element of the body, and the lower part is attached to the rear axle beam through a bracket and rubber bushings.

Shock absorbers act as elements that dampen vibrations

SPRINGS

Another integral element of both rear and front suspension is the spring. In addition to shock absorbers, it also provides a comfortable ride. In addition, the element prevents the vehicle from tipping over when making sharp turns. By design, the spring is made of a steel rod twisted into a spiral. From below, the part is installed in a special bowl of the rear beam through a rubber gasket that prevents squeaks. The spring element on top also rests against the bowl on the body through the gasket.

The spring, in addition to shock absorbers, is responsible for comfortable movement in the car.

JET ROD

The rear axle stocking is fixed to the body of the “seven” using reaction rods. The latter are present in the amount of five pieces - four longitudinal and one transverse (Panhard rod). Longitudinal rods prevent and prevent the bridge from moving back and forth, and transverse rods prevent movement when lateral loads appear. The rods are connected to the rear axle beam through rubber bushings.

Reaction rods of the rear axle keep it from longitudinal and lateral displacements

HIPS

The rear suspension compression buffers are made of rubber, are inserted into the body holes provided for them and are located inside the springs. An additional bumper is installed above the rear beam and secured to the bottom of the car. The purpose of the buffers is to prevent hard impacts when driving on bad roads when the suspension is fully compressed.

Rear suspension bumpers prevent breakdown during heavy sagging

Checking the condition of the jet rods on the VAZ 2107

Before we talk about checking jet thrusts, let’s ask ourselves: why is there a need for such a check at all? The fact is that when driving, jet rods are subjected to both lateral and torsional loads. Torsional loads occur when wheels hit large potholes or run over large rocks and other obstacles. This type of load is especially harmful for rods, or more precisely, for silent blocks in rods. It is the silent blocks that are the weak point of the jet thrust (there is simply nothing to break in the thrust itself: it is a metal rod with two eyes at the ends). In addition, the rubber parts of silent blocks are periodically exposed to reagents that are sprinkled on roads during icy conditions. As a result, cracks appear in the rubber and its service life is rapidly reduced.

If you believe the operating instructions, the new jet thrusts on the VAZ 2107 can travel at least 100 thousand km. But taking into account the conditions listed above, the actual service life of rods rarely exceeds 80 thousand km.

From the same instructions it follows that the state of the jet rods must be checked every 20 thousand km. However, car service technicians strongly recommend checking the rods every 10–15 thousand km in order to avoid extremely unpleasant surprises. To check the condition of the silent blocks in the rods, you will need an inspection hole and a mounting blade.

Test sequence

Video: checking jet rods on a VAZ 2107

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In every car, the weakest point is the chassis. When driving on asphalt, the car's suspension experiences virtually no stress. But when traveling off-road, traction is most often affected. This is especially true when operating an SUV such as the Chevrolet Niva. Therefore, it is better to take care of strengthening the reaction rods or rods in advance.

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107

Before starting work, we will decide on the necessary consumables and tools. Here's what we need:

Sequence of work

First of all, two important points should be mentioned. Firstly, the rods should only be changed in an inspection pit or on an overpass. Secondly, all five rods from the VAZ 2107 are removed in exactly the same way. That is why the procedure for dismantling only one central rod will be described below. To remove the remaining four rods, you just need to repeat the steps listed below.

Video: changing jet engines on a VAZ 2107

Replacing bushings on VAZ 2107 rods

Bushings for VAZ 2107 torque rods are disposable products that cannot be repaired. It is not possible to restore a worn bushing in a garage. The average car enthusiast has neither the necessary equipment nor the necessary skills to restore the inner surface of the bushing. Thus, the only option for repairing damaged traction bushings is to replace them with new ones. Here's what we need to replace the bushings on the rods:

Sequencing

The rods are removed from the car according to the instructions outlined above. The lugs and silent blocks must be treated with WD40 liquid and thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust using a wire brush.

So, to replace jet rods on a VAZ 2107, the car owner does not have to take the car to the nearest service center. All the work can be done with your own hands. Even a novice car enthusiast who has held a hammer and wrench in his hands at least once can handle this. All you need to do is follow the above recommendations exactly.

Source

Lift kit for Niva: which one to buy and how to install it yourself

Hello, dear friends! Today I propose to talk to you about the elevator kit for the Niva. This could be a Chevrolet Niva, that is, series 2123, or the more “our” Niva Urban, 2131 or 4x4, and representatives of the 2121 series, that is, 21213, 21214. It all depends on what kind of car you have at your disposal.

Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and a number of other countries are the greatest admirers of Niva cars. They are affordable and provide many benefits.

You can find out how much such a service costs at a service station. The price for a professional lift is steep, so not every owner of a not-so-expensive crossover like the Niva is willing to spend that kind of money, having the opportunity to do everything themselves. And if you put a power bumper and an expeditionary trunk on top, it will turn out great. At least now on a round-the-world trip on Niva.

Increasing the ground clearance of the VAZ 2121 (lifting) allows you to increase the vehicle's off-road capability. Thanks to simple manipulations, the ground clearance increases significantly by changing the suspension height (the Niva lift kit will help you here, which makes the work very easy to do even with your own hands without the help of a service center) and installing slightly larger diameter wheels.

Lifting - increasing the vehicle's ground clearance by upgrading the suspension. Performed in order to increase cross-country ability.

We propose to consider this issue in more detail.

As a rule, a lift kit for Niva 2121 includes:

Rear and front springs.
A set of spacers for the upper ball joint.
Front oil shock absorber.
Adjustable Panhard rod.