Which support bearings are better to put on the Priora?

You are the happy owner of one of the best works of the domestic automobile industry - Lada Priora, you use it carefully, everything suits you. But sooner or later there comes a time when, on minor road irregularities, extraneous noises and knocks appear in the front of the car. It's time to pay attention to the strut supports and the struts themselves, which can start knocking after a mileage of 40 thousand km. If, having looked under the wheel arch, you find traces of drips on the strut body, there is no doubt - the unit must be replaced. Several questions immediately arise: which struts are best to install on a car, where to buy, and how long can new shock absorbers from different manufacturers last?

Diagram of strut supports for Lada Priora

Do-it-yourself replacement of the front strut support bearing on a Priora

Even experienced motorists sometimes do not immediately determine the causes of knocking from the front pillars. The noise is heard under the hood while driving and when turning. There is also a knocking sound in the shock absorber springs. Car control deteriorates, and noticeable play appears at the steering wheel.

The reason for these problems is most likely that the support bearing of the Priora front strut is faulty . The part itself is installed between the support cups; inside there are also rubber gaskets - vibration and noise insulators, which also wear out. “Priorka” is an unpretentious car, but failure of the “support” still happens from time to time.

If the front support bearings of a Priora (Kalina, 2110, 2112, 2111) are knocking, it’s worth doing diagnostics and replacement.

Which engine mounts are best for a Priora?

Has anyone installed it? What do you think about the design, execution, etc.?

Apart from the bracket (of unclear purpose), I didn’t notice any differences.

I put this one on mine on the left side

Are the distances between the mounting points the same?

Question for those who installed new pillows - on the right side “Remote bushing 2110-1001209” - do they need a new support? https://www.autodoc.ru/acat/render?model=10&mark=3&group=89&typeauto=1

But I also have an old-style right engine mount bracket (this is part 2110-1001157 in the first link)

How are these brackets different? What's bad about s/o?

Changed the supports. The old ones were normal in appearance, not sagging, but when I took them off, there were strong tears in the rubber on the back side on the right side, smaller ones on the left. So an external inspection gives little information - you have to try to look at it from below from the pit. When installing the right support, I broke the thread in the support bracket. (at least they are in Autodoc and Exist). there are only three threads in the welded nut and the tightening force should be small (25 N*m).

How to check the support bearing on a Priora

Some causes of car malfunction:

• expiration of service life (mileage has exceeded 70 thousand km);
• excess axial loads on the racks (careless driving, accidents);
• moisture and dust getting under the hood.

To do this, do the following:

1. Raise the hood.
2. Locate and remove the protective cover of the upper support cup.
3. Start rocking the car body from bottom to top, while keeping your palm on the cup.
4. If you feel a knocking noise with your hand or hear grinding and rattling noises, you probably need to replace the bearing.

Separate support bearing VBF for Priora, Kalina

Kit with upper front support housing

Description of auto parts

The support bearing is a structural element of the strut . It ensures the mobility of the connection between the shock absorber and the body part. Acts as a type of rolling bearing.

The main reason for the failure of this part is the entry of debris and dirt into the structure. Such situations are not uncommon in low-quality road conditions.

A dirty and worn mechanism leads to a characteristic knocking and crunching sound when driving over obstacles and when turning the steering wheel. You cannot drive with a faulty support bearing. This is dangerous to the health and life of the driver and passengers.

Support bearing for Priora - which one is better

The support bearing is a part of the upper support that ensures the rack rotates along the axis while the car is turning. This part is an important element in the front chassis, the choice of which should be taken with care.

Reliable products are produced by SKF, as well as a number of Russian bearing factories. We list the main manufacturers, catalog numbers and prices of support bearings for Priora:

Recommended journal bearing manufacturers, numbers and prices

Lifehack: car engine support (pillow) - Priora with 16 valves

To prevent the engine from detonating, special rubberized parts were invented - supports.
They reduce vibrations at any speed. The cushion, also known as the engine support for the Lada Priora with 16 valves, can be: lower, upper, left and right - they provide connection between the power unit and the body and limit its movement. The price of parts starts from 500 rubles. Read the article to the end, it will tell you about which companies produce Priora engine mounts. Let's talk about analogues, their article number and price. How to replace supports on a 16 valve motor and what keys to prepare for the job!

The top guitar looks like this

How to replace the front support bearing on a Priora

Before starting the replacement, familiarize yourself with the structure of the front suspension strut, and it is also recommended to watch the video (at the bottom of the article) .

Preparation for repair

Place the car on a flat surface and provide lighting, engage first gear, it is advisable to also place wheel chocks at the rear, and provide insurance when working with a jack.

Prepare the required tool:

• new spare parts for replacement.
• a set of keys and a ratchet;
• steering wheel end puller (preferably);
• hammer;
• clamps or spring ties (required);
• jack and vice.
• penetrating lubricant WD-40.
• Torque wrench (optional).

Disassembling the front pillar assembly

1. First, remove the rubber cover.

1. To unscrew the fastening you will need a special elongated double head for 22, sold for 150 rubles.

1. We grab the smaller inner head with a spanner.

1. First, loosen the nut (do not unscrew).
2. Moving on to the bottom of the rack, the wheel has already been removed. We treat the fasteners of the secondary knuckle with penetrating lubricant (WD-40), as well as the steering tip bolt. Let's wait for a while.

1. We tear off the rack mounting bolts. The process looks like this:

1. You can’t unscrew them right away; you’ll have to knock them out at the end. First, unscrew the tip of the ball joint.

1. We loosen it with a spanner, then work with a “ratchet”.

1. Next, you will need a special puller, or carefully knock it out with a hammer through a wooden spacer.

1. Let's go back to the lower strut bolts. We knock them out carefully with a hammer and a wooden wedge. The fastener on top regulates the wheel alignment - do not confuse it with the bottom one when assembling.

Replacing the VAZ front shock absorber strut support

Source

Installing an additional gearbox cushion

The Priora already has the holes necessary to install this pillow, so in addition to the spare part itself with article number 2110-1001280, you will only need fasteners:

• 2 bolts M12x75.
• 2 self-locking nuts M12.
• 4 washers for M12 bolts.
• 2 bolts M10x30 with a thread pitch of 1.25 (for some cars a thread pitch of 1.5 is suitable).
• 2 engravers for M10 bolts. 8 wide washers for M10 (can be replaced with a smaller number when using thick washers, for example, from the cylinder head).

The replacement technology itself

• The part is attached to the gearbox bracket using M12 bolts with self-locking nuts.
• The washers are placed under the bolt head and under the nut.
• M10 bolts are screwed into the body. Between it and the rod body, you need to place washers so that the rubber rod does not touch the body.

To replace this rod, which will also be required over time, just unscrew the fasteners and replace the old one with a new one.

The good condition of the Priora engine mounts is the key to comfortable movement. At the same time, if you have a suitable tool, replacing components will not be difficult.

Source

Types of bearings

There are two design versions of the upper part of the rack:

• The support bearing is included in the support design (can be found on a number of VAZ models);
• It is a separate element that is placed between the support and the upper spring cup.

But there are several support bearings themselves that are used in the suspension design:

• WITH BUILT-IN OUTER OR INNER RING. Its peculiarity lies in the possibility of rotation of elements that are in contact with both the outer and inner rings. Additionally, this option provides installation holes, so no pressure flanges are needed during installation;
• WITH DETACHABLE OUTER OR INNER RING. In this embodiment, one of the rings (depending on the design) can be separated, while the second is fixed to the support;
• SINGLE-SPLIT. Structurally, this option is the same bearing with a detachable ring, but has increased rigidity.

In general, there is no particular difference which type of bearing is used, the main thing is that it performs its functions.

Despite the fact that the upper part of the strut is installed inside a special niche in the wheel arch, dirt, sand and dust penetrate the support, and these contaminants are destructive to any bearing.

Additionally, the support bearing is almost constantly subjected to rapidly changing loads, including shock loads (due to the operation of the spring), which, in combination with contamination, leads to intense wear of the bearing components and its failure.

Due to rather difficult operating conditions, the service life of such a bearing is limited. Many manufacturers indicate that it must be replaced every 100 thousand km.

Standard engine mount - article number and price

On Lada Priora with 16 valve engines, four types of airbags are installed:

• The top support is also a guitar;
• Bottom.
• Right (front);
• Left(back);

By the way, engine mounts for Lada Priora are available in several versions. New sample parts have the best performance.

Some car enthusiasts additionally install another cushion attached to the gearbox. The VAZ-2110 with an 8-valve engine was standardly equipped with this element.

Right

The right (upper) front engine mount on the Priora is attached via a bracket to the engine, it is used for:

• Transferring the weight of the power unit to the body;
• Limitations on longitudinal movements of the motor.

Part number – 2110-1001240. In retail stores it costs 300-600 rubles. On sale you can find one pillow (only a rubber part) or assembled with metal stops.

Left

The left one, when viewed in the direction of travel, is the car engine mount, installed between the gearbox and the body, and performs the same functions as the right one. Another name is posterior (lower).

The rubber part of the cushion is identical to that used on the right, catalog number: 2110-1001240. But the fastening of the front and rear parts of the Lada Priora power unit is different, so the spare parts supplied assembled with limiters come as two different parts.

Upper

The upper support of the Priora power unit prevents the lateral movement of the motor. This part is a rod, along the edges of which there are large-diameter holes; rubber cushions are installed in them to dampen vibrations. Because of its shape, the top rod was popularly nicknamed “guitar.” In some repair manuals the part is called a rod.

The upper “guitar” is available in several modifications. A special aluminum frame and improved damping pads used on new parts increase the service life of the unit.

The catalog number of the upper rod of the motor is 2112-1001300. The price, depending on the specific modification and manufacturer, ranges from 600 to 1000 rubles. You can find it cheaper in online stores.

Replacing the upper support (rod) of the Lada Priora engine is easier and therefore faster than replacing other mountings of the power unit of this car.

Lower

The lower engine mount, also known as the right rod, in the Lada Priora is the same as the upper one, these are two identical parts. Therefore, everything that is said about the upper “guitar” is true for her. Sometimes the lower engine mount is called the rear engine mount, which in the Lada Priora spare parts catalog is designated as the left engine mount.

Additional at the checkpoint

Additional support is not provided for the 16-valve Lada Priora engine. But Prior owners often install it themselves. This does not require any modifications; the design of the gearbox housing and body of the Priora is similar to the VAZ-2110.

Its installation makes the engine mount more rigid, jerking when driving in low gears, and “nodding” of the power unit during sudden accelerations and stops stop. But the vibration transmitted to the body increases.

The rear gearbox rod is designated in the catalog number 2110-1001280 and is supplied assembled with a mount. Price – 500–800 rub.

Replacing struts on a Priora involves using the following tools

• You will need special spring ties to remove the supports from the struts.
• Socket wrenches for 19, 17 and 13.
• Socket wrenches for 22, 19 and 17.
• Steering wheel end remover.
• Hexagon 6.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

Step-by-step instructions:

Replacing the strut mount starts with jacking up the right side of the car and removing the wheel. The brake hoses are released from the bracket on the rack. Carefully bend the locking pin of the steering tip pin, remove it and, using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut. Next, you need to use the steering wheel end remover. Turn the support and begin to unscrew the soured bolts securing the strut towards the steering knuckle. In this case, you may have to use a hammer. Unscrew the nuts securing the support to the body under the hood using a size 13 wrench. Remove the stand as an assembly from the wheel well. You can begin to disassemble the structure. Install the second coils above and below the spring of the spring tie

Pay attention to the symmetrical location of the second tie. Until the load is removed from the pore, we compress the spring. Use a 22 mm spanner to unscrew the nut securing the rod towards the support. We remove the limiters. Remove the spring cup, spring and compression buffer with boot. We inspect the removed rack. Before installing new strut supports, the strut must be bled and then kept in an upright position at all times until it is installed in place. We reassemble the new shock absorber, put on a small washer and a support with a pre-installed bearing

Next comes a large washer and a rod securing nut. We remove the spring ties and orient the support so that the arrow points slightly forward into the body. We return the rack assembly to its place. The support bolts are screwed on, a stand is put on the steering knuckle, an eccentric bolt with a washer is placed in the upper hole, there should be a regular bolt at the bottom and then everything is tightened. Next, the steering tip pin is inserted into the rod on the rack, the nut is tightened, a cotter pin is inserted and the antennae are pulled apart to prevent the nut from unscrewing. Carefully thread the brake hoses into the bracket on the rack. So, the rack installation procedure is completed. Next, the wheel is placed, the car is lowered and the nut securing the rod to the support is finally tightened. To additionally pump the stand, the machine can be rocked slightly from the work side. On the opposite side, the entire procedure is repeated in a similar order. Upon completion, be sure to do a wheel alignment.

In general, the procedure under consideration, like replacing the front struts, is not complicated and can be done independently. If you are not sure about certain points, it is recommended to carry out repair work with a partner

As a result of operating the machine for several days after replacing the supports, the following improvements are observed:

• the suspension becomes more elastic;
• the former laxity is absent;
• no swaying of the car on uneven surfaces;
• turns are better;
• gravel road is much smoother;
• the steering wheel returns faster after a turn;
• more comfortable passage of speed bumps;
• at speed the car becomes more controllable;

It is worth noting that if you are carrying out such repair work for the first time, you should familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances of the procedure and step-by-step instructions that will help you do everything as correctly as possible. Only in this case will car repair be effective.

Replacing the Lower Engine Mount of a Priora

replacement

engine
cushions on the previous one

Welcome! Engine mounts. they are placed differently on all cars and the number of pieces varies, some have only two and some have only two. 4 pieces (this is a VAZ model, for SUVs with large engines, the number of pillows, thanks to which they strengthen the engine, is much more or the same, but they are simply huge in size), thanks to these pillows the engine does not vibrate much, and most importantly, vibration is not transmitted on the body of the Car, as it is felt in some old Lada, on the cushions of which Zina is already hardened, and instead of vibrating, they rock the car itself and its engine.

The note! To carry out repair work to replace tool pads, you will need the smallest set of tools required: for this you will need a jack, a wrench and connecting heads, as well as an extension. It is recommended to stock up!

Result:

Where are the engine mounts? There are four of them in 16-valve engines (the largest, by the way, is 8 valves, mostly equipped with 3 airbags or just 2 lower ones), the two most important in any engine. These are the same lower mounts that the engine sits on. and one more (optional) on top and one more (optional) on the bottom, we will not show a photo of all the pillows as one photo will not work, we will have to take several at once, when you read the article, you will have all the pillows, you will read and find out where it is.

When do I need to change my engine mount? They change from time to time and only due to their own aging (the rubber gets old and starts to slow down the engine and therefore shakes), there are isolated cases when the cushion needs to be replaced due to deformation, and this happens when the engine hits the road very hard or falls into a deep hole through which, in addition to airbags, windshields sometimes explode.

VAZ Prior replacement of engine stand (cushion) “Technologies of the future”

a priority

with power steering, without air conditioning.
supports
(cushions) and ICE rods (guitars) are ordered from Technology.

Front engine support. Engine mount. right bottom bracket; 15 Replacing the oil scraper. VAZ 2112. Lada Priora Engine VAZ 2170 Replacing the bearing Support for the lower engine mount support. Breeding.

Removing the front support Power supply. Replacing the lower engine mount for Nissan Qashqai. VAZ-2112. Engine mount for Lada Priora (VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172). Front Engine Mount

. VAZ 2112. Replacement of the lower engine mount of Chevrolet Lacetti. Breeding. VAZ, VAZ 2110.

How to replace engine support cushions on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

The note! In this article, we will only cover the process of replacing additional pillows if you are also going to change the main ones (and the basic ones are usually lower), and then study the article called: " replacing

below
Engine Mount
Tens ” and then describes the entire replacement process!

Replacement extra below pillow:

This support is easy to remove, first you need to remove the crankcase from the bottom of the car and then you will have full access to the below support (Cushion), it is attached to one bolt and to the bolt that comes with a nut, to remove a regular bolt you just need take a wrench and then unscrew it completely, but in order to remove the bolt. When delivering a nut, you need to hold two wrenches and hold the nut with one wrench (or vice versa with a bolt) and the other. bolt (or vice versa, a nut), and after this operation the support can be removed from the machine.

The note! The same bolt that comes with the nut is marked with an arrow and is located in the right corner of the photo just above, the new support (Cushion) is installed in the reverse order of removal, during installation you will need to press on the engine with your hand so that the holes connect and the bolts can be turn, and therefore secure the pillow yourself!

Replacement Additional top cushion:

This pad is also not easy to remove, it is secured in the same way on one bolt with a rotating nut (this nut is indicated by a green arrow in the small photo and most importantly, when you unscrew the bolt, do not lose this nut, be sure to save it) and on the other bolt , but only at the end of which the normal nut is screwed in (the approximate position of this nut is indicated by a blue arrow and a red bolt is shown), when these two bolts are removed, you can remove the top support and replace it with a new one.

Additional video: If you suddenly want to understand what kind of airbags are usually installed on 16-valve cars of the tenth family and the Priory family, and if you suddenly wonder how they can be distinguished from each other, watch the video below:

The note! Always remember one thing, remove several engine mounting mounts at once, I do not recommend it under any circumstances (only if you are not removing it), otherwise, when all the mounts are removed, the engine simply will have nothing to attach to the body, except that if one pad is removed and you decide to remove the other one so that you can put them both in, we also do not recommend doing this, so it will be more difficult to combine the pads from the bolt hole later, it is best to change them one by one and move them immediately after replacing the others if this is the case and they need to be replaced!

Consequences of bearing wear and signs of damage

Since the support bearing can be partially attributed to the steering (without it, rotation of the rack would be impossible), its failure primarily affects the controllability.

But here it should be noted that this depends on the design solution used.

For example, in a VAZ-2110, the inner race of the bearing acts as a bushing through which the shock absorber rod passes.

As a result of critical wear of the bearing, it begins to play and the rod is able to deviate from the axis.

The result of this is a violation of the wheel alignment angles, and consequently a deterioration in the car’s handling, as well as accelerated tire wear.

But on a car, where the bearing only provides rotation of the strut and does not interact with the shock absorber, alignment violation practically does not occur, since the rod is kept from axial displacement by a bushing pressed into the rubber damper.

But even with this design, bearing wear will have a negative impact on handling.

If the bearing has worn out, this will naturally begin to show. In this case, the symptoms of a malfunction depend on the design.

If we take the same VAZ-2110, then bearing wear will manifest itself in the form of knocking noises when driving over potholes and unevenness on the road; in addition, they can be heard when turning

Sounds in the support are caused by play in the support element; it is important not to confuse them with a knock in the shock absorber

In the case of a bearing that does not interact with the shock absorber, its malfunction most often manifests itself in the form of squeaks and squeaks when turning.

Shock absorbers for tuning

In addition to comfort characteristics, replacing shock absorbers can affect the stability, handling of the Priora and its appearance. Such changes can be achieved by installing short-travel struts. As the name suggests, these are products with a short stroke, which are installed in order to reduce ground clearance, which, in turn, will improve the stability and controllability of the car.

This tuning gives the car a very remarkable look, but it will become difficult to use it for business purposes or to move a trailer. Some car enthusiasts install homemade short bars and strut supports with one goal: to give the car a sporty look and improve stability, while maintaining softness and comfort. After all, homemade short-stroke struts are converted from ordinary oil struts. Everyone makes the decision to install such products on their car for themselves.

Factory lowered struts are produced by many manufacturers, for example, Demfi. The manufacturer offers products that can be lowered by 30, 50, 70 and 90 mm. Thus, some compromise can be achieved by installing oil struts with a lowering of 50 mm. And the handling will be better, and the ground clearance will not be too low, and the ride will not be harsh.

Another type of short-stroke is screw racks. The purpose of their installation is the same, but they differ in that the height of the car above the road can be adjusted. The supports of the racks can be lowered or raised along the thread, while compressing or releasing the spring. Despite the apparent convenience of this design, there is also a drawback: the lower the strut supports lower the car, the more the spring is compressed and the ride stiffness increases. When short-stroke struts are manufactured in the factory, the length of the spring is selected to a certain amount of lowering and there is no such drawback.

Support bearing Priora purpose, replacement features, PrioraPRO

The front suspension is an element that allows you to easily overcome road unevenness, eliminating jumps and vibrations. To ensure its normal functioning, many consumable parts are used.

For a Priora car, the support bearing acts as a support and ensures proper operation of the suspension. If it wears out, a number of certain inconveniences arise.

Priora front strut supports, their features

The front shock absorber elements of front-wheel drive cars are not only a device that compensates for unpleasant road irregularities, but also a part of the turning mechanism. This makes adjustments to the design of these supports. Due to the fact that the strut is essentially a lever for turning the caliper, a special bearing is built into the upper support. That's what it's called - support. This allows you to reduce wear both on the support cup itself and on the shock absorber rod that goes into it. The presence of this bearing ensures the stability of the vehicle's steering.

The malfunction of this part is expressed in a decrease in the car's controllability and the appearance of extraneous sounds when the Priora hits any obstacle.

Bearing replacement

No matter what kind of car the support bearing wears out, but if it uses a MacPherson strut, then the technology for disassembling the unit for replacement is identical, with the exception of some nuances regarding the suspension design.

Therefore, we will consider how replacement is carried out on a VAZ-2110 car, and then we will indicate the features of the operation on other models.

So, it has been revealed that the support bearing requires replacement. All work can be done in a garage, but some specialized tools will be required.

• Standard set of keys, hexagons, heads with collars and rods;
• Jack;
• Steering wheel end remover;
• Spring ties;
• Rags.

A new support will also be required, since on this car the bearing is included in its design.

Of course, you can disassemble the support itself to replace only the bearing, but most car owners prefer to replace the entire assembly.

Additionally, you can purchase a spring vibration damper that is installed between the upper cup and the spring.

Below we will consider the sequence of actions, and we will indicate small tricks that will make the work easier.

Disassembly and replacement is done as follows:

1. We place the car on a level surface and immobilize it using the hand brake and wheel chocks;
2. Take a 30mm socket and loosen the nut securing the drive to the hub. It is better to do this while the car is standing on all wheels (unscrewing this nut with the wheel removed is more difficult, since it will be more difficult to block the hub from turning). It is also worth noting that this nut is pinned, so it is difficult to tear it out of place and you cannot do without extending the wrench;
3. We open the hood and, using a spanner wrench and a hexagon, tear off the shock absorber rod nut (the hexagon holds the rod itself, and the wrench loosens the nut. In this case, you only need to loosen it a little; it is strictly forbidden to twist the nut completely, otherwise the unheld spring will “shoot”). It is better to do this operation before removing the rack (it is much more difficult to remove the nut on a removed unit);
4. After removing these two nuts from their place, you can continue disassembly. Jack up the required wheel and remove it;
5. Unscrew the fastening of the ball joint of the lever to the rack;
6. Using a puller, press out the tie rod end;
7. Completely unscrew the nut securing the drive to the hub;
8. Loosen the brake caliper mount (there is no need to disconnect the tubes from it), remove it from the disc and move it to the side;
9. We take hold of the brake disc and pull it towards ourselves, pulling the hub from the splines of the drive shaft end switch;
10. We go into the engine compartment and unscrew the three nuts securing the support to the car body. At the same time, we ask an assistant to hold the support so that it does not fall to the ground. After this, remove the assembly;
11. We install the couplers and tighten the spring until its upper coil moves away from the thrust cup;
12. We completely unscrew the nut securing the shock absorber rod and remove the support (after this you can check the performance of the shock absorber, check the condition of the boot and bump stop).
13. Before installing a new support, we check the condition of the support cup, clean it of rust and dirt, install vibration dampers under it (if purchased);
14. Before installing a new support, we install the spring correctly (the ends of the coils at the top and bottom should fit into special recesses in the cups);
15. We install a new support and screw the rod securing nut until it stops;
16. We remove the ties, constantly monitoring the position of the ends of the spring;
17. We install the assembled rack on the car. After assembly work, it is necessary to additionally tighten the rod fastening nut.

Popular brands

On the automotive spare parts market, racks and supports for Priora are represented by several manufacturers; it is worth considering options for installing products from the most popular of them.

In addition to these, there are a number of manufacturers and brands under which you can purchase strut supports and shock absorbers themselves for the VAZ 2170. These are the legendary Monroe, Bilstein, and from domestic ones - SS20 and SAAZ. Which struts are better to install on a Priora - each car enthusiast decides for himself; there is no consensus that clearly recommends this or that brand. If you have not yet formed your own opinion on this issue and you have no idea which replacement would be correct, it is better to look at reviews on various forums and talk with other car enthusiasts who have already purchased and installed a product from a certain manufacturer on their car.

The important role of MacPherson struts

But MacPherson struts have another important function - they also serve as steering knuckles. That is, the stand with the wheel hub attached to it can rotate around an axis, which allows the drive wheels to be steered.

Naturally, where there is rotation, a bearing is used; in the case of this type of suspension, a support bearing.

To figure out where the support bearing is installed, let's briefly look at the car suspension structure.

Its main components are:

All these elements are assembled into a single whole, which provides the possibility of compressing and decompressing the spring and moving the shock absorber rod in the body (which is what the suspension is actually for, since vibrations are damped during these movements).

To ensure all this, the rack is assembled like this: a shock absorber is installed in the body and all this is installed in a spring.

To support the spring from below, a cup is used, attached to the body (welded to it).

To ensure that the spring is pressed, another cup is installed at the top, which rests against the support.

The spring extension limiter is the shock absorber rod, the end of which passes through the support and is secured with a nut.

Additionally, the support not only acts as a stop for the spring, it also provides the upper fastening of the strut to the body (it is attached to it with levers from below).

Replacing the left support is done in two ways

The first involves removing the part assembled with limiters. To complete it you need:

1. Tighten the nut from the bottom of the car, which secures the part to the gearbox bracket;
2. Unscrew the bolts securing the rod to the body and remove it.

To implement the second option, in which the consumable is disassembled, you will need:

• Unscrew the pillow nut from above;
• Remove the upper limiter;
• Unscrew the bolts securing it to the body;
• Remove the part, then the lower stop;
• Assembly is performed in both cases in reverse order.

Verification methods

Checking the condition of the support bearing is not difficult, but the technology depends on the design features of the rack itself.

It is worth noting here that such a check will not give an accurate result; you can verify that the bearing is faulty only after removing it from the car.

But, nevertheless, by performing a number of simple steps you can determine the condition of the upper support.

If we take the VAZ-2110 model, then its support bearing is installed in the support itself.

To check its condition, you should ask an assistant to rock the car in the transverse direction (not too much), while at this time we place our hand on the protruding part of the pillar in the engine compartment.

If the bearing is worn out, play will be felt by hand. Also, in a damaged element, such rocking is usually accompanied by the appearance of third-party sounds - creaks, clicks.

If all this is found during the inspection, it’s time to inspect the support.

On models such as Lada Priora, Lada Kalina, or, for example, Nissan X-Trail, the bearing is not included in the support structure, so it cannot be checked by rocking it. The only sign of wear for them is the appearance of a knocking sound when moving.

But it is still possible to further verify that the unit is faulty.

To do this, ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel in different directions. At the same time, we put our hand to the spring.

If the bearing is heavily worn, then wedging may appear in it, which will be reflected well into the spring in the form of vibration and mild “shooting”.

Types of shock absorbers

In a traditional MacPherson strut suspension design, the strut plays a major role. It performs both a supporting function and the function of a shock absorber (dampens body vibrations from driving over uneven roads). The unit, which in addition to the shock absorber itself also includes its support, spring, cup and slewing bearing, experiences considerable loads and requires attention and careful operation.

Signs of a unit malfunction are noises and knocking when driving over small uneven surfaces, squeaks, difficulty turning the steering wheel, hydraulic fluid leakage, body swaying on large potholes. Depending on the type of working environment and rigidity, shock absorbers are of three types:

• gas;
• oil;
• gas-oil.

Racks with gas and gas-oil working media are the most technologically advanced and reliable products, provide good vehicle stability and are adapted to a wide range of ambient temperatures. However, they are more expensive and have higher rigidity than oil shock absorbers. The latter are recommended for lovers of a comfortable, quiet ride due to their softness, but their service life is shorter, especially at low temperatures.