VAZ-2106, master brake cylinder: principle of operation, design, repair

Such a Soviet car as the VAZ-2106 has been produced since 1975. In 2005, the conveyor was stopped. The car became a real legend and an attribute of the Soviet automotive world. He was a favorite of many citizens of the USSR, although, like any car of that time, the car could not boast of a good braking system. This VAZ 2106 system leaves much to be desired.

Diagram of the brake system of a VAZ 2106 car. 1 - brake disc; 2 — brake pedal; 3 - vacuum booster; 4 — master cylinder for hydraulic brakes; 5 — pipeline of the front brake drive circuit; 6 — front brake protective cover; 7 — front brake caliper; 8 - vacuum pipeline; 9 — master cylinder reservoir; 10 — parking brake lever button; 11 — parking brake drive lever; 12 — lever latch rod; 13 — lever latch; 14 — bracket for the parking brake drive lever; 15 — return lever; 16 — pipeline of the rear brake drive circuit; 17 — flange of the rear end of the cable sheath; 18 — rear brake wheel cylinder; 19 — rear brake pressure regulator; 20 — pressure regulator drive lever; 21 — brake pads; 22 — lever for manual drive of the pads; 23 — rod of the pressure regulator drive lever; 24 — bracket for fastening the front end of the cable sheath; 25 — rear cable; 26 - lock nut; 27 — adjusting nut; 28 — bushing; 29 — rear cable guide; 30 — guide roller; 31 — front cable; 32 — parking brake warning lamp switch stop; 33 - brake light switch

Principles of operation of the braking system

The model in question has service and parking brake systems. The working system includes a hydraulic drive. It, in turn, consists of several circuits. They work independently and, accordingly, use the mechanism of the entire braking system of the wheels (rear, front). The composition of the service brakes is as follows:

• amplifier (vacuum);
• pedal system;
• brake cylinders;
• brake fluid sensor;
• pipelines;
• front and rear disc brakes on a VAZ with all adjacent units.

The clutch pedal and brake pedal are located on the same axis. The brake pedal has a return mechanism. There is also a switch for signals that indicate the braking process. The vacuum booster is designed to reduce the force on the brake pedal when the engine is running. This is possible due to the fact that the intake pipeline is discharged.

The master cylinder of the braking system is attached to the booster. Tubes from two circuits are fixed to it. The engine compartment has a special reservoir containing brake fluid. It goes through special hoses to the cylinder. The level sensor for this mixture is located on the tank lid. The front wheel brake mechanism is disc-type and includes brake discs, calipers, cylinders and pads.

Where to look for the cause in other components of the car

Now let's look at other elements that can cause knocking when braking. One of the reasons may be a banal loosening of the wheel fastening. In this case, it will play during braking and hit the hub.

You should also check the hub itself for play. If the wheel bearing is heavily worn, knocking noises may occur when braking.

The next component of the car that should be checked is the suspension.

Worn silent blocks and bushings may be the cause of this problem. Wear of the silent blocks of the steering mechanism can also lead to knocking noises.

Wheel rim bolt pattern for VAZ, Ford, Opel, Nissan, bolt pattern table

Finally, you should check the engine mounting. Loosening it on one of the cushions can easily cause a knock.

In general, when knocking noises appear, you should start checking from the brake pedal and go to the mechanisms. Moreover, you need to inspect and check carefully. Even a small amount of play can lead to this problem.

Along the way, you should also evaluate the condition of all elements of the car located near the hubs or connected to it.

Another reason is video.

Problems when braking

The parking brake is a mechanical lever-type device with a cable drive. In this case, braking is carried out only by the rear wheels. These brakes include a brake lever, cable, pads. All brake system problems can be divided into several types. Moreover, each malfunction has a list of specific causes and methods for eliminating them. Problems that arise during the operation of the braking system usually have the following manifestations:

• braking is not fast and effective enough;
• incorrect and untimely braking;
• during braking, the car drifts to the side;
• jamming of the cable when turning the handbrake on and off.

The braking process may not be fast or effective enough if brake fluid leaks. This can happen in the area where the VAZ brake cylinders are located. To fix this problem, you need to remove the broken parts and install new ones. It will be necessary to clean and dry all the pads, drums of the VAZ 2106 brake system, and the hydraulic brake drive.

Problems with braking can arise due to the accumulation of air in the depths of the VAZ system itself. If you get rid of it, the car will work perfectly. Malfunction of hoses leads to disastrous consequences, so they need to be changed on time. Rubber seals located in the brake system affect the operation of the machine, so they require timely replacement.

1 – cap; 2 – clamp; 3 – wheel mounting bolt; 4 – brake drum; 5 – hub; 6 – axle; 7 – brake shield; 8 – brake pad; 9 – pressure spring; 10 – emphasis; 11 – the tip of the spacer bar is long; 12 – tension spring (long); 13 – dirt-proof cover; 14 – cylinder; 15 – piston; 16 – cuff; 17 – thrust ring; 18 – air release valve; 19 – valve cap; 20 – flexible hose; 21 – lock washer; 22 – axis; 23 – adjusting nut; 24 – the tip of the spacer bar is short; 25 – expansion lever; 26 – cable end; 27 – cable spring; 28 – cable; 29 – tension spring (short); 30 – split washer; A – threaded holes for removing the drum

Another common malfunction of the brake system is incorrect and untimely braking. This can happen when the car engine is still running, and the VAZ system begins to slow down. It may occur due to the fact that the vacuum brake booster of the VAZ begins to malfunction. If its cover or seal wears out, the part is poorly secured.

If such a malfunction occurs, you need to completely replace the entire vacuum brake booster of the VAZ 2106. The lubricant may have been used quickly, so you need to add it to the vacuum seal, having first unscrewed the cap. The wheels of the vehicle may not fully release the brakes. This happens because there is no travel in the brake pedal. This in turn is caused by an incorrect position of the brake light.

To remove this malfunction, it is enough to adjust the switch correctly. It is necessary to monitor the protrusion of the bolt in the brake booster. The protrusion itself should be approximately 1.25-0.25 mm. But if the vacuum booster has stuck valves due to swollen seals and diaphragms, then it needs to be completely replaced.

Summary

The braking system is the basis of vehicle safety.
If the slightest problem occurs in its operation, you must immediately look for the problem and fix the problem. In fact, there are not so many reasons. In addition, everything can be much simpler - for example, a knock in the wheel when braking occurs due to a loose caliper mounting bolt. Yesterday, after driving without music, well, I got fed up, and heard an interesting knock. When I press the brake pedal (I just touched it, one might say), a single metallic (it seems to me) knock occurs. It was not possible to localize it, either on the right front or behind. And sometimes there is a knock, sometimes there isn’t. For example, I’m rolling at 40, I touch the brake (that is, I’m not braking to the floor), the brake light comes on and this knock sounds. I release the pedal, press - silence, stop, press in place - silence, move off, brake - silence, move off, drive 20-50 meters, press - knock. The pedal doesn't respond, but it infuriates me when something goes wrong.

Experts, attention to the question, what is knocking? Stub racks? Caliper? pads?

When I changed the pads, I lubricated the guides, but then I lubricated them and thought why I was doing this, since part of the guide is in the open air. And the thought came to me now that maybe the dirt has stuck and is wedging?

The appearance of a knocking sound when you press the brake pedal is not common, but it still occurs. At the same time, diagnosing the cause of the knock is quite difficult.

Let's figure out where this knocking comes from and how to solve this problem.

The braking system is one of the main ones ensuring traffic safety. This is what slows the car down to a stop.

The most widely used system on cars is a hydraulic drive system, when the driver’s force is transmitted through the working fluid to the brake mechanisms installed on the wheel hubs.

As for the mechanisms themselves, there are two types of them used on cars - now disc mechanisms in which pads, the elements that perform deceleration, interact with a disc mounted on the wheel hub are becoming increasingly widespread.

Previously, drum mechanisms in which the shoes were placed inside the drum were more common in use; the deceleration in such mechanisms was carried out by decompressing the shoes, as a result of which they were pressed against the inner surface of the drum.

But they did not completely abandon the use of drum mechanisms, since they have a well-implemented parking brake system.

Therefore, many cars are equipped with disc mechanisms at the front and drum mechanisms at the rear.

Maintenance of a hydraulically driven system comes down to periodic replacement of the pads, since they are worn out as a result of interaction.

Therefore, checking the condition of discs and drums is necessary.

The condition of the pipelines in the drive is checked, a visual inspection is performed for leaks, and the liquid level is monitored.

Often, after repair work, it is necessary to bleed the brake drive to remove air from the pipelines, because its presence can affect the performance of the system.

Since the brake system does not include a large number of elements, it is considered to be quite reliable and should not cause problems with proper care and maintenance.

But it is not always the case. Even in such a seemingly simple system, problems can arise.

One of the most common problems is the appearance of a knocking sound when pressing the pedal.

System failures

The VAZ brake system may show malfunctions. This may be due to the fact that the cylinder holes are clogged, so they need to be cleaned in a timely manner. It won't hurt to pump the entire hydraulic drive. It is necessary to replace the cylinder if the pistons fail. In this case, bleeding the entire system will not hurt. If the rubber seals begin to swell due to liquid (gasoline or oil) getting inside, then the entire circuit of the VAZ brake system requires thorough washing and replacement of the damaged elements.

Sometimes the wheels (or one of them) may slow down if the brake pedal is loosened. This problem occurs for several reasons. In this situation, you need to pay attention to the pad springs in the rear brake, because they could either fail or weaken a little. You just need to change the springs. The piston itself may sometimes not work and jam.

You need to disassemble the entire cylinder and see what is blocking the piston. Then start cleaning. When the part is washed, you need to look if there is damage to other elements. All broken devices need to be replaced. Wheels may fail to brake if the seals in the cylinders have increased in size. If they are swollen, then liquid has entered there. To troubleshoot problems, you need to thoroughly flush the entire brake system, eliminating unnecessary fluids in it.

In addition, you need to install new rings. The same problem with wheel braking can arise due to the fact that over time the vehicle has been used, the space between the drum and the shoe has expanded. To fix this problem, you need to adjust the parking brake.

The wheels can free themselves and brake on their own if the position of the caliper has changed. This situation occurs if the bolts near the brake disc bracket are unscrewed. To get rid of the problem you need to tighten all the bolts in their places.

Instructions for replacing rear pads

Raise the rear of the car with a jack from either side. Install wheel chocks under the front wheels. Remove the wheel by unscrewing the mounting bolts and lockers. Now you need to remove the drum from its seat. As a rule, during the operation of the car, it settles and “sticks,” which complicates the dismantling process. It is recommended to use a hammer to give several gentle blows to the surface of the drum between the studs. After removing the drum, it is necessary to clean the brake mechanism itself and the seat from dust and dirt with a brush. Check the drum for wear

If there are severe chips, cracks or burrs, replace with a new one. Remove the upper tension spring using a screwdriver or pliers. Press the support spring plate with pliers. Turn the plate ¼ turn. Remove the support strut of the second block in the same way. Move the brake pads apart and remove the clearance adjuster. Remove the lower tension spring by hand. Now you need to pay attention to the handbrake mechanism, which is located on the rear block. It needs to be dismantled. To do this, you need to remove the locking ring and remove the pin using pliers. Check the condition of the brake pads

If necessary, replace with new ones. After replacing the pads, it is necessary to adjust the gap between the pads and the drum itself. To do this, you need to remove the rubber plug from the inside of the dirt shield and use a flat-head screwdriver to turn the regulator gear. The wheel rotates only in one direction to spread the pads. It is necessary to achieve light contact between the pads and the drum. Before assembling all parts of the brake drum system, it is necessary to wash all parts in gasoline, disassemble the clearance adjuster and lubricate it with graphite or silicone grease. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Place the vehicle on the ground and secure the wheel mounting bolts. Repeat the procedure with the second wheel.

To do this, you need to remove the locking ring and remove the pin using pliers. Check the condition of the brake pads. If necessary, replace with new ones. After replacing the pads, it is necessary to adjust the gap between the pads and the drum itself. To do this, you need to remove the rubber plug from the inside of the dirt shield and use a flat-head screwdriver to turn the regulator gear. The wheel rotates only in one direction to spread the pads. It is necessary to achieve light contact between the pads and the drum. Before assembling all parts of the brake drum system, it is necessary to wash all parts in gasoline, disassemble the clearance adjuster and lubricate it with graphite or silicone grease. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Place the vehicle on the ground and secure the wheel mounting bolts. Repeat the procedure with the second wheel.

After replacing the brake pads on the drums, you need to drive to a quiet place and check the functionality and effectiveness of the pads. It is highly recommended that you replace any damaged or worn brake drum parts. Adjustment of the pads must be done once a year, or 15-20 thousand km. This is necessary for uniform wear of the rear pads and maintaining the braking efficiency of the rear wheels. It is recommended to perform this procedure in a lifting box, but if necessary, a jack with an inspection hole will do.

Damage and strange sounds

If any units are damaged during the occurrence of the problem, they must be replaced with new ones. If the brake disc produces runout with an increase of 0.15 mm, then it needs to be ground, and if it is already less than 8-9 mm thick, then it’s time to replace it. The next problem with the braking system is situations where the car pulls too far to the side when braking. This occurs in cases where there may be a leak from the cylinder.

To prevent brake fluid from leaking, you need to change the seals. To fully check the circuit requires bleeding. In this situation, the pistons themselves from the cylinder may jam. They need to be checked on time. Make sure the parts are intact. If the brake system units are clogged, it should be cleaned. It is imperative to check all drums, linings, discs, as they can become clogged. All parts of the system require timely cleaning.

If the regulator responsible for the pressure level is not adjusted correctly, then you need to adjust it and set it correctly. If its diagnostics and adjustment show that it is out of order, the unit needs to be replaced. If the cable is damaged, the handbrake may stick, which will affect the efficient operation of the entire vehicle, so the cable must be replaced. You need to completely replace the VAZ handbrake if the entire mechanism is damaged and the handbrake fails.

With increased pressure on the brake pedal, there may be problems with air filters, booster valves, hoses and the seal itself. To eliminate all problems, you need to check these units, clean them, and if they break down completely, parts need to be replaced.

If you hear sounds (creaking) in the brakes, this may be caused by weakening of any parts, springs, wear, breakage, contamination, or too much beating of the brake disc. All these elements need to be checked, tightened, cleaned or replaced. Monitoring the operation of the braking system allows you to study the design and ensure safe operation of the vehicle.

Knock in the wheel area, disappears when the brake is applied

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I immediately remembered your number, there is such a bus here (c) Alexey

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These are the caliper guides. On these 296mm, they wear out and knock, although you can simply straighten the anti-rattle springs and there will be silence

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These are the caliper guides. On these 296mm, they wear out and knock, although you can simply straighten the anti-rattle springs and there will be silence

Well, laugh after laugh, are they expensive? Tomorrow I'm going to a service center to get it repaired, I'd like to be prepared so I don't get scammed.

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One of the most popular causes of knocking noises is worn-out seats for mounting the caliper guides in the brake mechanism. In this case, there is play in the caliper, which causes vibrations during braking. Knocking is also common. Solving this problem is very simple - it will completely disappear after replacing the guides.

During braking, the fluid presses on the piston. However, it gets stuck in the cylinder and remains in this position until an increase in pressure pushes the piston out of it. When this happens, it hits the pads with force and presses them down - this is the reason why you hear a knocking noise from the front when braking.

To correct this situation and get rid of annoying sounds, just remove the caliper and remove the piston. Then its condition is visually checked, and the surface of the cylinder is inspected together with the piston. If traces of corrosion are found during the inspection, the cylinder must be cleaned, and it is recommended to replace the piston.

About flushing the brake system

A person’s life depends on the serviceability of a car’s brakes, and therefore diagnostics must be approached responsibly. The brake system requires periodic inspection. In addition, it needs to be washed from time to time, which many people don’t even realize. Most car enthusiasts will not even remember when their car had a complete brake fluid change. Moreover, there are often those who have not changed the fluid in the system at all since purchasing a new car.

Why flush the system?

Brake fluid tends to wear out over time, that is, with continuous use, over time it begins to lose its basic qualities. Brake fluid serves to transmit pressure through the master cylinder to the working cylinders when the pedal is pressed. In addition, it serves as a lubricant for the components and mechanisms of the hydraulic system.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it can absorb water. This means that with constant moisture ingress, after several years of operation, the working fluid begins to boil at lower temperatures. This level can drop to the point where it boils even during moderate driving with infrequent use of the brakes.

The brake fluid that has absorbed moisture ceases to properly lubricate, and the pistons in the cylinders begin to heat up, the sealing collars overheat and leak, and when the brake fluid gets on the friction linings, it renders them unusable. The internal cavities of the cylinders are corroded by corrosion. All this is developing very quickly, and soon a complete repair of the brake system will be required, in particular, replacement of working elements. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, you can change the working fluid in a timely manner. It’s easier and cheaper than having to deal with repairs and replacement of components later.

Washing rules

The procedure for replacing the fluid is specified in the user manual. In addition, replacement is necessary when the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir becomes dark. In this case, flushing is required. To do this, you will need to purchase a special tool, although you can use a simpler method, namely, use a new TZ for these purposes.

There are several ways to wash it. You can use the services of a service station, where washing is carried out using special equipment. But the VAZ 2106 is easy to maintain, and you can wash it yourself in a garage. The work takes more time than turning to specialists, but the results are no less effective, and you will also be able to save money. The only thing you will have to fork out for is to buy a high-quality TZ. You need to take it with a reserve, as some will go away along with the old liquid. You will also need the help of a friend.

The procedure is as follows.

1. After washing, bleeding will be required, so you need to prepare a transparent silicone hose in advance, which can be pulled tightly onto the bleeding fitting on the cylinder.
2. In terms of technology, flushing is very similar to pumping and is performed according to the same scheme. That is, you need to start with the left rear wheel, then move to the right front, the next will be the right rear and the last one to bleed is the left front.
3. All liquid is pumped out of the tank. You can use a syringe or a medical bulb. If there is sediment or plaque on the walls, the tank should be removed and washed, or, in extreme cases, replaced. Next, fresh fuel fluid is poured into the tank.
4. Then everything is the same as when pumping: one person sits in the driver’s seat and presses the pedal, the second unscrews the fitting and drains the brake fluid into a container. To avoid having to do pumping after washing, it is important to press and not release the pedal until the fitting is screwed in completely.
5. Determining when to switch sides is very simple. This will happen when the color of the leaking fuel fluid changes and it becomes light. In this case, you need to carefully monitor the fuel fluid level in the master cylinder tank and periodically add it to the maximum.

Before starting this procedure, it is strongly recommended that you study the detailed instructions and read the repair and maintenance manual for the VAZ 2106. There are also methods of washing using compressed air and a compressor, with complete disassembly of all parts and washing by hand, but the result will be the same in any case.

Replacing the master cylinder of the VAZ 2106 brakes

In the vast majority of cases, replacing the cylinder is the best repair option. The fact is that it is not always possible to find individual parts of brake cylinders (pistons, return springs, spacers, etc.) on sale. It is much more common to find sets of seals for cylinders on sale, but the quality of these seals sometimes leaves much to be desired. In addition, they are often counterfeited. That is why car owners prefer not to bother with repairing the old cylinder, but simply install a new one on their “six”. To do this, we will need the following tools:

• set of spanners;
• pliers;
• flat screwdriver;
• rags;
• medical syringe;
• canister of brake fluid (capacity 0.5 liters);
• 5 x 6 bolts (they will be used as plugs for the brake hoses).

On my own behalf, I can add that recently even original VAZ repair kits for seals for the master cylinder have become of very mediocre quality. Once I purchased such a kit and installed it in the leaking cylinder of my “six”. At first everything was fine, but six months later the leak resumed. As a result, I decided to buy a new cylinder, which is still in the car to this day. Three years have passed, and I have not yet noticed any new brake fluid leaks.

Sequence of work

When starting to replace the master cylinder, you should make sure that the car engine is completely cool. In addition, all brake fluid should be drained from the reservoir. The most convenient way to do this is with a medical syringe (if you don’t have one at hand, a medical bulb will do). Without these preparatory measures, it will not be possible to change the cylinder.

1. Use an open-end wrench to unscrew the fastening nuts on the brake hoses. The hoses are carefully removed from the cylinder body. 8 bolts are screwed into the vacated sockets. They will serve as plugs and will not allow the brake fluid to leak out when tilting and removing the cylinder. The brake hoses are also sealed with 6mm bolts to prevent leakage.
2. Using a 13-mm open-end wrench, unscrew the two fastening nuts holding the cylinder to the filter housing. After this, the cylinder should be carefully pulled towards you, always trying to keep it horizontal so that the liquid does not leak out of it.
3. The removed cylinder is replaced with a new one. The fastening nuts on the amplifier body are tightened. Then the fastening nuts of the brake hoses are tightened. After this, a portion of brake fluid is added to the reservoir to compensate for the leakage that inevitably occurs when replacing the cylinder.
4. Now you should sit in the passenger compartment and press the brake pedal several times. Then you need to slightly unscrew the fastening nuts on the hoses. After unscrewing them, a characteristic hissing sound will be heard. This means that air is coming out of the cylinder, which ended up there during the repair and which should not be there. As soon as brake fluid drips from under the nuts, they are tightened.

Disassembling the cylinder and installing a new repair kit

If the driver decides to do without replacing the cylinder and change only the sealing collars, then the cylinder will have to be disassembled. The sequence of actions is listed below.

1. First, use a screwdriver to remove the rubber seal located in the cylinder body on the side of the mounting flange.
2. Now the cylinder should be placed vertically in a vice. And using a 22-mm open-end wrench, slightly loosen the front plug. Use a 12 wrench to unscrew the limiting bolts located next to it.
3. The loosened plug is unscrewed by hand. There is a thin washer underneath it. You need to make sure it doesn't get lost. After completely unscrewing the stops, the cylinder is removed from the vice.
4. The cylinder is placed on the table (before this you need to lay something on it). Then a regular screwdriver is inserted into the body from the flange side, and with its help all the parts are pushed out onto the table.
5. A rag is inserted into the empty body. The body is thoroughly wiped. Then it should be inspected for scratches, deep cracks and abrasions. If any of this is discovered, then the point of replacing the seals is lost: you will have to replace the entire cylinder.
6. The rubber rings on the pistons are removed manually and replaced with new ones. The retaining rings on the fittings are pulled out with pliers. The gaskets located under these rings are also replaced with new ones.
7. After replacing the sealing collars, all parts are installed back into the housing, then the plug is installed. The assembled cylinder is installed on the amplifier flange, then the brake circuit hoses are connected to the cylinder.

The brake failed at full speed: what to do?

First, try pressing the pedal sharply several times: perhaps its functionality will be partially restored. Next, assess the situation and identify a place where you can gradually turn. Then tighten the handbrake (don't do it too hard) and start shifting (if you have a manual transmission) to a lower gear. At the same time, when the lever is in “neutral”, press the accelerator (perform “re-throw”) to “prepare” the gearbox gears for emergency operation. As a last resort, choose the lesser of two “evils” - it is better to run into some obstacle near the road (roadside bushes are a good option) than to collide with a car.