Anti-roll bar for LADA Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

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Why is this technology needed?

A stabilizer in a car is required to increase the lateral stability of the car, as well as to prevent a possible overturn during a high-speed maneuver.

If a sideways tilt occurs, the stabilizer rods move in different directions (up and down). All this ultimately leads to twisting of the middle beam, as the mechanism tries to bring the raised side of the car to its normal state. As a result, all wheels remain automatically pressed to the road surface during the entire turn.

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Changing front stabilizer bushings on Lada Vesta

The main stages of replacing stabilizer bushings:

  1. We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area and raise it with a hydraulic lift.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Unscrew the upper and lower fastenings of the stabilizer strut (bone).
  4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the left seal.
  5. We unscrew the five bolts (at “10”), slide the protective cover of the steering rack, and remove the right one.
  6. We install new rubber (polyurethane) bushings.
  7. We assemble the structure in reverse order.

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Replacing stabilizer bushings on Lada Vesta

Necessary tools, materials:

  • Torx wrench with set of sockets;
  • ring, ring wrenches;
  • knob, heads;
  • Silicone based lubricant.
  1. We hang the car with a lifting mechanism.
  2. We turn on the first gear to lock the front wheel drive.
  3. Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheels and tires one by one.
  4. We unscrew the nuts of the upper and lower fastening of the stabilizer (bones), use the head at “17”.
  5. Using a key set to “17”, release the two bolts securing the metal bracket on the torsion bar on the left side. Access to the rubber bushing is unobstructed.

Self-replacement of bushings on Lada Vesta is completed.

Note to the driver! It is not necessary to make a longitudinal cut when installing seals. The presence of an incision contributes to:

  • penetration of sand, dirt, moisture into the gum;
  • backlash formation;
  • deformation of the seal.

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  • Description
  • Reviews

APPLICABILITY: VAZ 2190, 2191 (Lada-Granta), VAZ 2192, 2194 (Lada-Kalina 2).

Used with stabilizer d=22 mm.

Size of the stabilizer link rod (jumper): 15 x 15 mm.

Stabilizer links SS20

It is distinguished by a reinforced structure with argon welding around the perimeter of the lintel.

Advantages of SS20 stabilizer struts:

— the reinforced stabilizer strut housing with a box-section jumper has increased strength and rigidity;

— high service life of rubber and polyurethane bushings;

— argon welding along the perimeter of the jumper provides a tensile force 2.5 times greater than that of a standard part and eliminates rupture of the stabilizer strut;

— the ability to choose stabilizer struts with softer rubber or more durable and wear-resistant polyurethane bushings;

— silent blocks retain elasticity down to -40°C and are resistant to gasoline, oils and reagents;

— on the Grant and Kalina 2 stabilizer struts, the size of the upper bushings has been increased;

— 2 year warranty without mileage limitation.

Instead of the standard design, we offer an SS20 stabilizer link

increased reliability (according to test results,
the breaking force is 2.5 times higher than that of the standard one
).

Spot welding cannot be checked visually, since it is a closed weld, so it is recommended for use in non-critical connections.

Argon arc welding provides high quality and stability of the weld, which is easy to check visually.

Under critical loads, the SS20 stabilizer strut may be deformed (crushed, twisted, bent), but rupture and integrity will not occur. The car will not lose lateral stability, which significantly increases safety, especially at high speeds.

With
silent blocks made of black rubber (Shore hardness 65-70 units) , with high dynamic endurance to repeated deformations and loads, with good resistance to air and ozone exposure.

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Replacement of anti-roll bar elements for Lada Granta

Tool:

  • Straight box spanner 17 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Driver for socket attachment
  • Extension for the end attachment on the wrench
  • 13mm wrench attachment
  • Large hammer
  • Punch
  • Medium flat screwdriver
  • Knife

Parts and consumables:

  • Aerosol lubricant type WD-40
  • Anti-roll bar strut - 2 pcs.
  • Stabilizer bar cushion - 2 pcs.
  • Metal brush
  • Soap solution

Notes:

Remove the stabilizer bar struts and pads if they show significant wear, cracking, tearing or swelling of the rubber. Carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. The operations for removing the right and left stabilizer bar struts are similar.

Removing the anti-roll bar link

1. Using a 17 mm spanner, unscrew the nut securing the stabilizer link to the front suspension arm, holding the bolt with a wrench of the same size.

2. Use a soft metal drift to knock out the bolt.

3. To make it easier to remove the strut from the stabilizer bar, unscrew the two nuts securing the stabilizer pad bracket from the desired side.

4. With the right side of the stabilizer lowered, remove the strut from the stabilizer bar.

Note:

As a rule, on cars with high mileage, worn struts can be easily removed. If the stand cannot be removed immediately, we recommend inserting a thin screwdriver blade between the rod rod and the rubber bushing and pressing out the rubber. After this, a penetrating liquid such as WD-40 should be injected into the resulting gap and, shaking the strut from side to side, remove it from the stabilizer bar.

5. Install the new stand in the reverse order, having first cleaned the end of the bar with a brush and lubricated it with soapy water.

Removing the anti-roll bar cushions

1. To replace the stabilizer bar cushions, unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the stabilizer bar struts to the arms and remove the bolts (first photo of the article).

2. Using a socket with a 13 mm socket, unscrew the nuts securing the airbag bracket to the body and remove the bracket.

3. Remove the stabilizer link from the rod (see above).

4. Remove the pad from the barbell.

Note:

Typically, worn pads can be easily removed from the bar, but if you have difficulty, cut the pad with a knife and remove it.

5. Install the new cushion in reverse order, lubricating the rod and the hole in the cushion with soapy water.

6. Replace the cushion on the other side of the stabilizer bar in the same way.

Removing the anti-roll bar

1. To remove the anti-roll bar, disconnect the stabilizer links from the front suspension arms and remove the stabilizer bar cushion brackets (see above).

2. Remove the stabilizer bar.

3. Install the anti-roll bar in reverse order.

The article is missing:

  • Photo of the instrument
  • Photos of parts and consumables

Source:

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How to identify a faulty stabilizer link before it breaks on the highway

The average lifespan of stabilizer struts on a Lada Grant is 40-50,000 km, however, if budget segment components are installed or used on roads with insufficient surface quality, the replacement procedure may be required much earlier. The most pronounced signs of deterioration of stabilizer struts are the following factors:

  • When driving straight at low speed, the car wobbles its wheels;
  • When driving at low speed, the car spontaneously deviates from the set course;
  • There is a strong vibration load on the steering wheel or an increased consumption of power steering fluids is observed;
  • When driving near maximum speed, the vehicle's suspension begins to sway;
  • There are creaks or impacts in the area of ​​the ball, strut or wheel of the car.

Remember, if these factors are present during operation of your car, it is necessary to diagnose the chassis. The best option would be to check at a service station, but the inspection procedure can also be carried out at home - all you need to do is:

  • Turn the car's steering wheel all the way and try to turn the wheel, holding the disc with your hands - the feeling of play when the wheel moves indicates that the base of the joint and the wheel hub are worn down. This factor reduces vehicle controllability;
  • Next, we try to rock the car by chronologically pressing on the wheel liner - successful completion indicates serious deterioration of the struts. In this case, it is prohibited to operate the car until the chassis is completely repaired;
  • Then we inspect the stabilizer struts for deformation - worn bushings or leaks of technical fluids also require prompt replacement of components.

By making it a rule to carry out a full diagnostic inspection every 10,000 km, you will completely protect yourself from accidental breakdowns or critical situations on the road, and will also increase the life of the vehicle as a whole. Remember, timely replacement of components will cost much less than emergency repair of the system after the fact.

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