Fuse box diagram for an injection VAZ 2114

Fuse box VAZ 2114

Hundreds of meters of wires providing power supply to various components of the car are connected to the mounting block. Compactness and the ability to combine many electrical circuits in one place are know-how that the auto industry has been pursuing for a very long time. This approach greatly simplified the installation of electrical circuits and made it easier to troubleshoot vehicle electrical problems.

Five-door VAZ Lada 2114 - swan song of the SAMARA families

Any electrical problems in a car begin with checking the mounting blocks. Malfunctions in the operation of electrical appliances are the result of emergency situations, installation of additional equipment, or damage to wiring. The functional purpose of fuses is to protect each specific unit. Powerful consumers, such as the fuel pump, headlights or fan motors, are connected via a relay. Fuses protect most of the vehicle's electrical power circuits. A twofold excess of the rated current leads to a break in the circuit within 5 seconds, eliminating overheating of the wiring and possible fire of the car.

Due to the fact that the VAZ 2114 was created on the basis of the “nine”, the location of the fuse boxes in both models is almost identical. The first fuse and relay block is a “black box”, focused on the hazard warning lights and low-high beam headlights, located under the hood. Each element is responsible for the normal functioning of a specific electricity consumer.

Video about VAZ fuse box

For example, the correct operation of the headlights is ensured by four fuses, each of which protects the power supply of either the high beam or the low beam and is responsible for the operation of the right and left sides. The malfunction of one element does not entail a complete shutdown of the headlights.

The second unit is located inside the car, under the dashboard. It is equipped with: fuses for the fuel pump, radiator fan relay, electronic control unit.

ECU weight

A reliable ECU ground is very important for the proper operation of the engine management system and the engine as a whole. It would seem a primitive and reliable design that can serve for years without fail.

But in reality this is far from the case

It would seem to be a primitive and reliable design that can serve well for years. But in reality this is far from the case.

It is very difficult to list all the possible problems that can arise due to poor ECU mass, since it can affect anything. But the main problems can be divided into two points:

• Incorrect collection of information from engine control system sensors. Personally, I had to deal with incorrect MAP sensor readings. It gave inflated barometric pressure readings precisely because of the poor weight of the ECU.
• Since almost all modern engine control units are able to adapt to real operating conditions, as a result of incorrect collection of information from sensors, adaptation leads to engine malfunctions. This is why for many, after resetting the adaptations, the engine begins to work much better. But then the problems return as the ECU adapts again. And again this does not happen quite adequately.

Mounting block design

On the VAZ 2114, a mounting fuse block of article number 2114-3722010 is installed, which has become a replaceable modification of the block 17.3722, which was installed in the “eights” and “nines”. The difference between the new units and the old ones is in the designation and rating of fuses, designations of connectors and relays, as well as the absence of a breaker relay for washing the rear window and an engine cooling fan relay. The last two digits complementing the article indicate that the unit is equipped with one or another relay. VAZ injection variations require the installation of a similar unit with a slightly modified connection diagram for the radiator cooling fan.

The mounting block is a know-how that the auto industry has been pursuing for a very long time

The main device of the block is:

• plastic case;
• one or more printed circuit boards;
• relay;
• circuit breakers;
• connectors for connecting the unit to the vehicle's electrical system.

The printed circuit board is made either traditionally - from foil fiberglass, or as an improved option - a plastic board with connectors. Fiberglass is more reliable, but the board can only be repaired using a soldering iron. Plastic is inexpensive, parts can be replaced without special tools and equipment.

The design and types of relays used in mounting blocks differ in operating principle into:

A conventional electromagnetic relay operates when voltage is applied and turned off. With its help, power windows, headlights, heater, etc. are turned on.

Specialized relays are equipped with an electronic unit that ensures the periodic operation of a particular component. They are connected to turn signals, hazard warning lights, and windshield wipers.

The purpose of the relay, its circuit and contacts are indicated on the body. To avoid possible errors, the cover of the mounting block also serves as an information panel; a diagram and all information about the purpose and location of fuses are located here.

Cylindrical fuses were replaced by rectangular blade fuses. The fusible link inside the fuse and two flat contacts made installation and replacement of fuses less labor-intensive. Sometimes reusable bimetallic fuses are used. Properly functioning car electrics prevent frequent fuses from blowing, but experienced drivers always have a spare set with them. Moreover, a faulty fuse can often be identified visually.

The main purpose of the mounting block is to simplify car maintenance and repair, make it more understandable and accessible to any car enthusiast with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering.

Additional ground (wires)

If the weight of the engine with the body is bad, then problems arise:

1. The battery may not charge well;
2. The starter turns poorly when starting the engine, or may not turn at all, only the solenoid relay will click;
3. At full power consumption (high beam headlights on, heater motor running, etc.), the generator may not be charging enough.

When symptoms of poor engine mass appear, there is a way out of the unpleasant situation - in this case, additional mass on the engine will help. You can install an additional wire in different ways, the most important thing is that it reliably connects the car body with the power unit. For example, one end of the wire can be attached to the stud of the upper shock absorber support, and the other to the stud of the intake manifold of the internal combustion engine

It is important that the wire has a large cross-section, preferably no less than that of the bulk itself

On new machines, problems with mass wires rarely occur. But on older models, the body studs rust. Finding a lack of ground is not so easy, so car owners use the installation of additional wires. So the additional mass on the generator helps eliminate battery charging leakage.

An additional wire is a necessity on used cars

Poor weight causes unstable engine operation. For example, a weak mass with the ECU affects the stability of the engine at idle speed. There is a loss of voltage in the circuit, and when the electric engine cooling fan is turned on, the idle speed drops noticeably, sometimes even to the point of stopping the internal combustion engine. Therefore, contact must be established and a reliable ground must be established. The problem on the new generation VAZ 2113-15 is also solved by installing an additional thick bulk wire (about 2.5 mm²) - it stretches from the negative terminal of the battery to the metal base of the center console in the car interior

Unreliable contact of the common wire of the instrument panel can affect the readings of sensors installed on the combination. In particular, when the dimensions are turned on, the arrows of the fuel level and coolant temperature indicators may deviate. It also happens that the instrument cluster is dimly lit. Behind the instrument panel itself there is a standard bolt for securing the ground; perhaps the fastening has become loose. You need to remove the shield and tighten the bolt.

Installing an additional wire from the negative of the cigarette lighter to the metal frame of the center console sometimes also solves the problem, and the instruments begin to display correctly.

Functions of mounting block components

Mounting block 2114-3722010 contains up to 9 relays and 20 fuses. Experienced motorists who know the purpose and location of each element of the mounting block are able to independently diagnose and correct the malfunction. A hint in a difficult situation is the pinout - the correspondence of the functions of the contacts in the connectors according to the color of the wires to the numbers of the plugs of each electrical circuit.

VAZ 2114 was created on the basis of 2109, so the arrangement of the blocks is identical

The generally accepted designation of wires - two letter values ​​- means: the first is the color of the wire (B - white, G - blue, F - yellow, etc.), the second is the color of the strip.

Removing the head unit

In some situations, it may be necessary to remove the mounting block. This is usually caused by voltage surges or part of the circuit burning out. Also, if fuses burn out on a VAZ 2114, the reason may be hidden in oxidized or melted tracks or connecting terminals.

When asked how to remove the fuse box on a VAZ 2114, you must follow the simple dismantling instructions:

• open the negative terminal on the battery;
• from the inside of the cabin, you will need to disconnect the five main connectors of the wiring harnesses;
• dismantle the cover of the mounting block by clamping two terminals;
• the sixth pin connector is disconnected on the top side of the module;
• using a key No. 10 with an adapter, you need to unscrew the fastening of the main module;
• lift the mounting diagram with a screwdriver;
• remove the last terminal blocks from the bottom side;
• remove the mounting device.

Reinstallation is performed in the opposite order. The simplicity of the procedure is due to the fact that all terminals are different from each other and it is impossible to confuse their location.

Repair and diagnostics

All possible malfunctions of the mounting block are divided into:

• fuse failure;
• relay malfunction;
• damage to conductive paths;
• contact damage.

Blown fuses are the most common reason for a car owner to begin examining the contents of a black box. Before changing the fuse, it is necessary to determine the cause of the blown. The circuit is “ringed” for a short circuit and the end devices are checked. After diagnosing the circuit and eliminating the breakdowns, the old fuse is replaced.

It must be taken into account that the fuse being replaced must have the same ampere value as its predecessor. Installation with a higher rating is possible. A lower reading of the electric current on the fuse causes its immediate blowout and, as a result, the lack of protection of the electrical circuit.

Relay failures are diagnosed by replacing fuses. Installing the relay into the mounting block on the connectors does not require soldering, and replacement is quite simple.

With conductive paths everything is a little more complicated. Possible damage is not always obvious. Modern plastic blocks require exquisite soldering skills, which are difficult to work with even for experienced electricians. Soldering wires is only permissible if separation of printed circuit boards is not required. Sometimes it's easier to buy a new unit.

There are a great many contacts in the mounting block. Corrosion or normal contamination does not always allow one to determine the functionality of the contact. The most common way is to clean the contacts with sandpaper or a regular knife. If the contact breaks off, you can try to solder it, but unsuccessful experiments with soldering lead to the need to replace the block.

The fuse being replaced must have the same ampere rating as its predecessor.

Before starting to work with electricians, it is necessary to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. It is undesirable to use metal screwdrivers and check the circuit for a spark, because this sometimes leads to short circuits and burnout of current-carrying paths.

Despite all attempts by manufacturers to simplify the work of diagnosing and repairing the mounting block as much as possible, the abundance of parts and all kinds of wires require basic knowledge of electrical engineering. If there are none, and if you have no experience working with a soldering iron, the best option is to contact a professional auto electrician.

COMMON MALFUNCTIONS

In the mounting block, the cooling fan fuse often blows, as well as the cigarette lighter fuse on the VAZ 2114. The cigarette lighter on this VAZ model often shorts out on its own, you can call this a factory defect.
Another reason for burnout is the installation of various devices of higher power in the cigarette lighter socket, for example, a compressor for inflating tires. But before changing the fuse for the VAZ 2114 cigarette lighter, you need to check the condition of the cigarette lighter socket itself. Often a device is inserted into the socket by twisting the plug, and the cigarette lighter block begins to dangle and short out. In this case, the wire going to the cigarette lighter may fray or break, and for this reason the fuse will constantly blow. The fuse link (20A) of the cooling fan is also loaded with an audio signal, so you can determine a blown fuse F5 by the absence of a car horn. Another fuse link, responsible for the operation of the fan, is installed in the car interior next to the engine ECU under the dashboard. Fuses can blow due to a short circuit in the fan motor - standard fans are not very reliable and often fail.

Contacts often burn out and tracks on the mounting block burn out due to a short circuit in the electrical circuit. When moisture gets on the connector pads, the contacts oxidize. The power supply unit in the VAZ 2114 model is considered a rather weak element and requires repair or replacement. It should be noted that the mounting block 2114 is quite problematic to repair, so if a malfunction occurs in it, you should think about replacing it. The cost of a power supply unit for a front-wheel drive VAZ ranges from 2 thousand to 3 thousand rubles. But it’s better to replace a burnt-out unit than to go through the hassle of restoring it.

Often the central locking on VAZ 2113-2114-2115 cars refuses to work normally, and many drivers cannot determine the cause of the malfunction. The thing is that the central locking fuse is very cleverly installed in the electrical circuit of the car. In the area of ​​the steering column on the wires there are two fuses in a holder, one of them responds to the activation of the central locking (15A). The contact in this clip oxidizes and the central locking system does not work. If an old-style cylindrical fuse-link is installed there, it is better to immediately change it to a new type of flat one.

Keep the mounting block clean, always close the protective cover!

Fuse box price

The functions provided by fuses in the car’s protection system from extreme situations oblige car owners to take their choice seriously. The reputation of the manufacturer, the material used - information that will help you avoid possible significant financial expenses. The cost of the fuses themselves is low, and, as a rule, does not exceed 10 rubles. A relay, depending on its purpose, costs no more than 200 rubles. The cost of the mounting block, depending on the modification, varies from 2000 to 3000 rubles.

How to understand that the solenoid relay is faulty

There are certain “symptoms” by which the driver can understand that the relay is faulty:

1. When the ignition is turned on, there is no characteristic click accompanying the movement of the armature back to its extreme position. That is, in the words of the drivers, the starter does not spin, the engine does not start.
2. A click is heard, but the trigger mechanism does not function.
3. The engine is started by the starter, the relay works, but does not turn off.

If one of the listed situations occurs when you turn on the ignition, you urgently need to figure it out and eliminate the cause. Sometimes the problem is not too serious and can be dealt with quickly.

When you cannot hear a click, you should check the voltage. It may not exist. Or the problem is in the pull-in winding. First check the wiring in the car. It is necessary to examine the positive wire that goes to the relay. Then inspect the ignition conductor.

If you hear a click, but the starter does not turn, you should look for the problem in the starter. The shields may wear out or the winding may break. In this case, further diagnostics should be carried out only after dismantling the structure. If you can’t figure out the system yourself, it’s better to contact a specialist. There are times when you have to buy a new starter. Its price is from 3 to 5 thousand rubles.

If the relay starts and the engine runs, but does not want to turn off, you need to look for the problem in the winding itself or in the relay mechanism. Often such a malfunction is caused by a broken spring. It tends to stretch, weaken, and stops pushing the anchor properly.

Preparing electrical equipment for winter

Electrics in the VAZ 2114 are a weak point and are subject to seasonal inspection

As a rule, preparation for winter driving is limited to changing tires, checking the battery and keeping the car from freezing. But maximum summer temperature loads, high humidity in autumn, dust and dirty contacts negatively affect the performance of electricians. Cleanliness is the key not only to health, but also to the high-quality operation of the vehicle’s electrical equipment. Dirty or loose terminals often cause the car to be unable to start. The sensitivity of a car's electrics during the transition to more extreme operating conditions is a factor that many people forget about. Lowering the temperature and its changes negatively affect the insulation of wires and contribute to the formation of microcracks. Constant vibration leads to deterioration of contacts. Since, according to reviews from Lada 2114 owners, electrical equipment is not its strongest point, it, along with spark plugs, tires and battery, is subject to seasonal inspection.

Removal and replacement process

There is nothing complicated about this; even a novice car enthusiast can handle this process.

What will you need?

First of all, prepare everything you might need:

• new fuse to replace;
• sandpaper or stationery knife;
• screwdriver - if you don't have pliers.

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Phased replacement

If you notice that the heater, backlight, cigarette lighter or fuel pump in your car has stopped working (the car will not start), then first you should check the functionality of the components themselves. Below we will consider the process of removing and replacing power supply parts.

1. Open the hood of your car and find the location of the box. If you stand facing the hood, it is located on the right side. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, because all work on replacing electrical components must be done with the battery disconnected.
2. Pry up the fastening clips of the power supply cover and remove it.
3. Identify the failed element by visually inspecting it. On a blown fuse you will see a broken or melted fuse thread. However, not all contact performance can be determined immediately. It is quite possible that the socket itself where the element is installed is dirty or has formed corrosion, which prevents contact between the fuse and the circuit from being restored. Then take a knife with a thin blade (stationery) or sandpaper and clean the contacts with it.
4. Take special pliers, which are also located in the power supply unit itself at the attachment point. Use them to dismantle the burnt fuse. If the relay fails, remove it by pulling it up and simultaneously swinging the relay left and right.
5. Replace the burnt out component with a new one. Please note: the component must correspond to the rating, so if your 10 amp part fails, then you need to replace it with the same one.
6. Close the decorative trim and check the functionality of the device that has failed. If its failure was due to the failure of the fuses, then after replacement everything will work.

Crash test results

The differences between the VAZ 2114 and its predecessor, the Nine, mainly affected the safety of the vehicle interior. The test result was a disappointing 3.7 points for the “nine” and an even more sad 3.2 for the 2004 VAZ-2114 out of 16 possible points. As it turned out, the “fourteenth” protects the driver in a frontal impact no better than the “nine”.

However, the concern’s pricing policy, availability and cost of consumables have made the VAZ 2114 the most popular car in the Russian fleet for police officers.

A fuse in an electrical circuit is a small-sized protective device that is designed to protect the main working parts from extreme overloads in the form of a sharp increase in current through a break in the circuit due to the melting of a special insert. The first fuses of this type appeared at the end of the 19th century and today they are widely used in electrical circuits of modern cars, including the VAZ 2114.

System to system

The ignition ignition does not use a traditional distributor and ignition coil. Here, module 5 (Fig. 9-42) is used, consisting of two ignition coils and high-energy control electronics. The ignition system has no moving parts and therefore does not require maintenance. It also has no adjustments (including the ignition advance angle), since the ignition is controlled by the ECU.

Scheme. 9-42. Ignition system pic:

1 - battery; 2 — ignition switch; 3 - ignition relay; 4 — spark plugs; 5 — ignition module; 6 electronic control unit; 7 — crankshaft position sensor; 8 — master disk; A - devices to the system

Ignition matching uses a spark distribution method called the “idle spark” method. The engine cylinders are combined into pairs 1-4 and 2-3 and sparking occurs simultaneously in two cylinders: in the cylinder in which the working stroke ends (compression spark) and in the cylinder in which the exhaust stroke occurs (idle spark). Due to the constant current direction in the windings of the ignition coils, the current of one spark plug always flows from the central side to the electrode, and the second - from the side to the central. Type A17DVRM or AC spark plugs are used. P43XLS with electrode gap between 1.0-1.13mm.

The ignition control in the system is carried out by the ECU. The crankshaft position sensor supplies the ECU with a reference signal, on the basis of which the ECU calculates the firing sequence of the module in the ignition coils. To accurately control the ignition ECU, it uses the following information:

— crankshaft rotation frequency;

— engine load (mass air flow);

— coolant temperature;

— position of the crankshaft;

— presence of detonation.

Operating principle, design and characteristics of fuses

A protective device of this type consists of a housing, which is usually made of high-strength ceramics or special glass, and a fusible insert made of a conductive metal or alloy.

The body performs several functions:

• a fuse-link is built into it in a special way so that when the rated current of the insert is exceeded, it melts or breaks;
• the working thread is inserted into the chamber to extinguish the electric arc that occurs when the circuit breaks; this chamber is equipped in the housing;
• on the body, in those places and in the form as provided for by the fuse design, there are working contacts through which it must be connected to the general network.

Information about the characteristics of this protective device is printed on the housing. This is the rated current of the fuse link and the rated current of the fuse body at which it breaks.

Location and electrical diagram

The fuse is turned on simultaneously with the device for which it is responsible. As mentioned above, if the optimal voltage parameters in the circuit are exceeded, the electrical circuit breaks. By the way, in total, power supply elements in vehicles operate for one hundred hours.

VAZ 2114 vehicles with an injection engine use a single-wire wiring system, which is typical for most cars that exist today. Each, without exception, energy consumer connected to the power supply has its own fuse, which, as a result of an increase in voltage or a short circuit, immediately opens the entire circuit. This is done to prevent overheating of the wiring, and therefore a potential fire.

However, not all devices and instruments of the vehicle are connected to the power supply. Some components of domestic cars require high voltage, which means they cannot be protected by fusible power supply components. For example, these include the circuit of the ignition coil, engine start, and battery. As a rule, the wiring of such components has a much larger cross-section and is equipped with a reliable layer of insulation.

Location of the fusible device block of the VAZ 2114 car

Therefore, take into account the fact that before disassembling the headlights, radio, ventilation system or anything else, you need to make sure that the power supply element itself responsible for this device has not failed. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagram and location of the power supply elements and relays in the VAZ 2114 car. The power supply itself is located in the engine compartment, on the left side in the direction of travel of the car. Opening the hood, under the wipers you will see a power supply unit, which is usually painted black. In order to remove the cover, you need to disconnect the two latches on the sides of the power supply.

Removing the cover of the box, you will see a device on which nine relays and twenty fuses are located. On the inside of the protective cover there is a diagram identifying the purpose of each power supply device, including the relay. Below we will look at the electrical circuit and the purpose of each individual power supply component.

Electrical diagram of device components

We will also consider the purpose of power supply elements responsible for lighting, operation of the stove, cigarette lighter, fuel pump, etc.

Table of assignment of devices of the mounting block of the VAZ 2114 car

VAZ 2114 fuse box

On cars of the Samara 2 series, which include the VAZ 2114, there is a mounting block that is installed in the engine compartment under the windshield on the left side.

Location of the fuse box on the VAZ 2114

It houses various relays and fuses. Because of this, it is often called the fuse box. The cover of the mounting block is secured with clips made of plastic; they snap off quite easily and it is removed. On its inner side there is a diagram of the VAZ 2114 fuses. The rated current strength that is allowed in the circuit for each protective device is indicated there.

You cannot install a charger with a current exceeding the rated values ​​indicated in the diagram. In this case, damage to the electrical device located in the circuit is possible.

On injection machines, the relays and chargers are located as follows.

Fuse box VAZ 2114

In the upper right corner you can see a small yellow tweezer; it is specially attached there for replacing the charger.

In total, this block contains 17 active memory units from F1 to F16 and 4 reserve ones - F17, F18, F19 and F20.

In addition, the car has another block where the fuses are located; it is located in the car interior under the glove compartment and an open shelf.

The interior is equipped with:

• Charger for the fuel pump, with a rated insert current of 15 A;
• protection (7.5 A) on the fan relay, speed sensor, oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor;
• fuse with a current of 7.5 A to protect the ECU and ignition unit.

Fuses under the right screen of the VAZ 2114 console

In order to competently operate the electrical equipment of a car and promptly respond to emerging malfunctions or failures, you need to have a good understanding of which circuits include a particular protective device.

Peculiarities

VAZ 2114 cars have many innovations compared to 2109, in particular, this concerns electrical wiring.

Whether it is an injector or a carburetor, the wiring diagram for the VAZ 2114 is located in:

• vehicle interior;
• in the engine compartment;
• behind the car body.

It should be noted that carburetor VAZ 2114 were produced only from 1997 to 2000, then they were equipped with carburetors from the VAZ 2108.

But new engines have a more powerful ignition system; accordingly, the electrical control circuit is also characterized by certain features, for example:

1. There is a new harness for connecting to the ignition module terminal. This component sends signals to the spark plugs through high-voltage wires.
2. Another harness was added to allow mounting of the switch.
3. Additional wiring has appeared to connect the adsorber valve to the injection system controller.

Many VAZ 2114 car owners mistakenly believe that thanks to the ignition module, they don’t have to use a coil. In fact, this device is equipped with two coils and two switches. One of the coils transmits the signal to the first and fourth cylinders, and the second - to the second and third.

Purpose of fuses

What fuses are on the VAZ 2114? The electrical circuit of this car is designed in such a way that in front of all the main electrical units there are chargers located in the fuse box.

VAZ 2114 fuse diagram

The connection diagram of these protective devices is shown in the figure.

1. F1 - rated insert current 10 A - protects the fog lamps located at the rear.
2. F2 - with a current of 10 A - these are left and right turn lights, an emergency warning light, a relay-breaker for turn lights and emergency lights.
3. F3 - with a current of 7.5 A - protection of light bulbs in the cabin and trunk, trip computer circuits, ignition and brake lights, "Check engine" warning light.
4. F4 - with a current of 20 A - protects switches located in the heating circuit of the trunk door glass and heating elements of this glass, “carrying” contacts.
5. F5 - with a current of 20 A - protects the horn circuit and its switch, as well as the electric motor of the cooling system fan.
6. F6 - with a current of 30 A - this is a circuit of electric windows and their switches with contacts.
7. F7 - with a current of 30 A - a protective device for three electrical units - a heater, a windshield washer and a headlight cleaner. In addition, there is also a cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and winding for the heating switch for the trunk door glass.
8. F8 - with a current of 7.5 A - is protection for the right fog light bulb located in front.
9. F9 - with a current of 7.5 A - this is protection for the left fog light bulb located in front.
10. F10 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the indicator lights on the left side, the license plate number, the engine compartment light, the dashboard lights and switches with heating levers, as well as the indicator lights for the size.
11. F11 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right-side headlight bulbs.
12. F12 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the right low beam headlight bulb.
13. F13 - with a current of 7.5 A - a protective device for the left low beam headlight bulb.
14. F14 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the left high beam headlight and the blue high beam warning light.
15. F15 - with a current of 7.5 A - protects the right high beam headlight.
16. F16 - with a current of 15 A - protects the light bulbs and the turn switch and hazard warning lights, the white reverse light, the power supply of the instrument cluster, the trip computer, the generator winding (at startup), the lights indicating low oil pressure, brake fluid and parking brake, battery discharge.

Electrical diagram of VAZ 2115 - 20 cars (left half):

1 – headlights; 2 – fog lights; 3 – air temperature sensor; 4 – electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; 5 – blocks connected to the wiring harness of the ignition system; 6 – engine compartment lamp switch; 7 – block for connection to a single-wire type audio signal; 8 – sound signal; 9 – washer fluid level sensor; 10 – front brake pad wear sensors; 11 – oil level sensor; 12 – generator; 13 – engine compartment lamp; 14 – coolant temperature indicator sensor; 15 – starter; 16 – battery; 17 – relay for turning on fog lights; 18 – coolant level sensor; 19 – brake fluid level sensor; 20 – reverse light switch; 21 – windshield wiper gearmotor; 22 – oil pressure warning lamp sensor; 23 – block for connecting to the rear window washer electric motor; 24 – windshield washer electric motor; 25 – instrument cluster; 26 – mounting block. Conventional numbering of plugs in blocks: A - block headlights; B — electric fuel pump block; C — blocks of the mounting block, ignition switch, windshield wiper gearmotor; D — interior lamp

What are the differences between the mounting blocks installed on the Lada Samara? BRIEFLY: There are 3 types of blocks: 1 - the first rear window washer relay (the block has 11 relays). 2 - first headlight wiper relay (the block has 9 relays). 3 - first fan relay (the block has 9 relays). Such a block can be installed instead of the second one, then we place a jumper on relay 1 (pins 30 and 87). And everything will work, except for the rear fogs, they will either work normally, or they can be turned on at any time.

DETAILS: First view - Blocks with 11 relays

There are 2 types of them: Old style

Characteristics: Dimensions:

the dimensions have three fuses (7, 9 and 10), and they are powered by Ш4/4, Ш4/13 and Ш3/13 through a button and a turn switch, and this is done for the “parking light” function: by pulling out the key you can turn on the turn switch left or right dimensions, while the license plate and instrument lights did not turn on. And the button turned on all the dimensions and lighting. After 1988, this function was removed, and all three contacts were connected by one wire, which was connected directly to the size button.

Note:

The fan relay winding is connected to fuse 4, to which the heater fan and window washers are connected. If it burns out, the engine cooling fan will not turn on.

Headlight cleaners:

when the light was turned on, a plus appeared on Ш3/8, then to fuse 3, from it to the headlight wiper relay K6. If you turn on the windshield washer, the relay turns on, and if the headlights are on, then a plus is supplied to the motors at Ш7/3.

The second type is blocks with 9 relays

The most popular one, which came with a europanel

Blocks with 9 relays (both the first in the photo and the second in the photo) come in 2 types:

The first type of blocks with 9 relays: K1 - headlight wiper relay

They have:
Fan:
on Sh5/5 plus it is supplied directly, and the fan was turned on by connecting it to ground with a sensor or a switch controlled by the brains of the injector. The sensor is designed for higher current. Therefore, sometimes a situation arises when, after replacing the unit, the fan does not turn off. In this case, you can embed a relay (30 and 87 into the break in any wire to the fan, 86 to the ignition positive, 85 to the sensor or injector brains).

Replacing fuses on a VAZ 2114

When any problems are detected in the operation of the car’s electrical network and engine, be it the burnout of light bulbs or the failure of some electrical devices, the driver must first check the functionality of the fuses. The procedure is as follows:

• determine where the fuses are located on the VAZ 2114, which may have failed. To do this, look in the machine’s operating manual for a diagram of the location of the protective devices and determine whether they are located in the mounting block or under the dashboard in the area where the front passenger’s feet are located;
• when working with the car's electrical system, the negative contact of the battery must be disconnected;
• open the plastic latches holding the mounting block cover;
• remove the plastic tweezers from the mount in the upper right part of the block; they can be red, transparent or yellow;
• take the protective device, the circuit of which is supposed to be broken, by the body with tweezers and pull out the fuse;

• There are rules, developed by operating experience, on how to check the fuse. First of all, it is necessary to visually determine whether the fuse-link inside the case has burned out or whether the charger is in good condition;

• if the destruction of the insert cannot be visually determined, it is necessary to check the protective device using a device;
• If confirmation is received that the fuse has blown, it must be replaced with a functional one. The price for a VAZ 2114 fuse box on the automotive market is about 2,000 rubles, and a set of separate chargers of this type will cost 150 -250 rubles.

It is strictly forbidden to install home-made devices or jumpers in place of failed chargers, as well as fuses with a different rated insert current. A short circuit or fire may occur.

When working with the mounting block, do not use metal screwdrivers or other metal tools, this can lead to a short circuit and failure of the mounting tracks of the block.

We invite you to watch this useful video:

VAZ2114 what to do so that the mounting block board does not turn green, otherwise I clean it once a month. How to disassemble the fuse box of a VAZ 2114.

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25 comments on “How to disassemble the fuse box of a VAZ 2114. VAZ2114 what to do so that the mounting block board does not turn green, otherwise I clean it once”

Buy a new block

Cut it with obscenities.

Nothing to do. It's a disease.

Treat it with special anti-oxidation chemicals and cover the block with a salafan. Water flows into it. Place a rubber gasket under the block.

Oleg, yeah, a block of cellophane is brilliant, about the same as blocking the ventilation with cotton wool

I, too, after removing and opening both boards were “overgrown” with all sorts of crap, but everything worked, I replaced it with a new block

Denis, what do you propose to do since such a “clever guy” when the boot on the wiring is torn? Let's use the means at hand!

Oleg, replace the boot! Well, at least with sealant, but don’t wrap it in a bag. There’s no ventilation there, it’s just a greenhouse effect

Denis, what about the gap between the fuse block covers through which water flows? And by the way, this boot is not sold separately; it comes complete with oblique wiring for the wipers and wiper motor.

Oleg, you can find anything you want at a disassembly site. Sealant to help with seams

Denis, if the unit is disassembled, the terminal of the board cable will be broken if it is filled with sealant. When sold, you'll buy the same crap with cracks.

Serge, I’ve already changed the fuse box three times in 4 years. And not a sealant on the seam and nothing helps

Varnish, then sealant on the body, then a regular medical shoe cover on top of the assembled body.

Ruslan, what did you change? something didn't work? I changed it this way for prevention, because I remember that the latch was broken at the lid and something like water got inside, so the time came and I decided to look there

Serge, I'm sending you a photo. The fuse and electrical box is located in the drain(((

Ruslan, yes, I know, all the bullshit is pouring on him, you need to think of something on top of the lid, but definitely not wrap it in a bag

Serge, I also use sealant around the perimeter of the lid and along the base at the bottom where it is secured with bolts. Nothing helps. Haven't used the package yet. But I don’t think it will help either. Water and moisture will find the cracks

Ruslan, how to make a roof on top so that it protrudes 1-2cm on all sides, and at the bottom it’s just like a Hermes on the outside of the hole in the body

Serge, yes. No other way

Put on a regular shoe cover on top!! it fits just right and the elastic at the bottom tightens. I've been skating like this for two years, and before that I suffered.

First, clean everything with a special crap in a spray can, then wipe everything off and spray it generously with selecon, blow it off with air pressure and do the same with the terminals.

Locating the Fan Relay

This element is necessary for thermal regulation of the machine engine. When driving at low speed, the motor overheats, which requires forced activation of the cooling fan. The detail is responsible for exactly this. The insert is also located inside the passenger compartment at the feet of the front passenger. According to the factory instructions, the required part is installed first on the left. However, the exact location and order may vary depending on the year of manufacture.

Where is the VAZ 2114 fan switch relay located?

The head fan relay is located inside the main mounting block located under the hood. The fuse is also located here.

How to test a relay

The fan relay itself is checked only by replacing the element with a known good part. Also, some car enthusiasts diagnose the relay with a multimeter, but the method is not justified due to the cheapness of the first one.

How to check the cooling fan fuse without removing it

To check the F4 fuse link, just connect a primitive continuity tester to it. Or press the horn button - both devices are powered through a single fuse and if one does not work, the second will also fail.

VAZ 2114 forced activation of the cooling fan using a button and relay

To redo the factory circuit and force the head cooler to turn on, you should stock up on the following materials:

• direct 4-pin relyushka;
• terminal
• button of satisfactory size and design;
• 5 meters of wire with a cross-section of no more than 1 mm;
• screwdrivers and wrenches.

Next, the connection principle is carried out according to the diagram:

It is also possible to mount forced switching directly, but this will quickly wear out the breakers.

Video on the topic

The fuse box of the VAZ 2114 is the part that prevents the occurrence of a malfunction in the vehicle's electrical system - a short circuit. This vehicle has 2 independent fuse blocks. One is under the hood, the second is in the car interior on the left under the steering wheel. In the VAZ 2115 and other cars of this series (after the “ten”) the location of the block is identical, so there will be no problems finding it.

How to connect a new one

When figuring out how to remove the device and install a new one, you should consider the following algorithm of actions:

1. After dismantling the negative terminal, it is necessary to remove the left plastic cover at the driver’s feet.
2. Next, you should disconnect the contact blocks and remove the backlight bulb.
3. Then you need to turn off the light filter and remove the old part from the center console using a screwdriver.
4. Having completed the installation of the new part, you can proceed to assembly, starting with the installation of the backlight ring.
5. At the next stage, the cigarette lighter is placed on the seat and connected to the batteries using a three-pin connector.
6. All that remains is to tighten the screws responsible for fixing the facing plastic and connect the electrical wires.

Connection diagram

Before carrying out any work to replace the cigarette lighter, you should familiarize yourself with the pinout diagram of the part on the VAZ-2114. It is necessary to adhere to the correct polarity, guided by the following wire assignments:

1. Black - represents the negative terminal or ground that connects to the body.
2. Red - is intended to supply voltage to the heating element and is connected using a 20 A fuse.
3. Yellow is the backlight wire.

The procedure for dismantling and assembling the cigarette lighter is not complicated. The main thing is to figure out where this element is located and how to change it with your own efforts.

How to determine if a fuse is faulty

When identifying a malfunction of any electrical appliance, it is best to start diagnostics with the fuse.
This is the weakest link in the chain. In addition, it is easiest to check the protective element. So, if in your “fifteenth”, for example, the sound signal has stopped working, do not rush to disassemble the steering wheel or the device itself. Lift the hood, locate the main mounting block and open it. Next, find the appropriate fuse. For convenience, use the block diagram shown on its cover. With its help, you can not only understand which and where the VAZ-2115 fuse is located, but also find out its designation. In our case it is F5.

Before checking the required protective element, it must be removed from the board. For this purpose, there are special tweezers in the mounting block. Use it to remove the fuse from its seat and inspect it, as well as the contacts on the board.

They check the fuses using a conventional auto tester or a multimeter by “ringing” it. A burnt-out element cannot be restored. It only needs to be replaced with a similar one with the same rated current.

Upon completion of work, check whether the sound signal and radiator fan are working, and do not forget to close the fuse compartment cover.

Mechanical and electrical breakdowns

Location and diagram of the VAZ 2110 fuse box

This malfunction manifests itself in an increase in the noise level emitted by the generator set. The reason is the destruction of one of the bearings. As a rule, the one that is located in the front cover - it is subject to very large loads, especially when the VAZ 2114 generator belt is tensioned too much. For this reason, you should always monitor the tension of the generator drive belt.

As for breakdowns in the electrical part, they can manifest themselves in the form of a lack of battery charging voltage or its low (sometimes too high) value. To check the serviceability, it is not necessary to remove the generator from the car. To do this, use a multimeter. Take voltage measurements at the terminals of the VAZ 2114 battery. The generator should produce about 14 Volts when operating. If it is 12 Volts or lower, then the generator is not producing the required voltage and needs to be repaired. In some cases, the fault lies with the voltage regulator or worn brushes.

Video from Stanislav Alekseev “Determination of faulty power supply components”

In this video, the author tells users how to diagnose a failed contact in the block of a VAZ 2114 car.

It's no secret that the VAZ 2114 fuse box is the main component of the vehicle's wiring system. This device has a specific circuit and allows you to protect all kinds of car system devices, such as the cigarette lighter, stove, fuel pump and others from malfunctions and overvoltage. In this article we will provide you with basic information regarding the location and replacement of components.

Replacing the memory

If the engine becomes unstable, electrical problems arise, light bulbs burn out, or electrical appliances stop working, the first step is to check the effectiveness and integrity of the fuses.

To do this, the following activities are performed.

1. Determine the location of fuses that may fail. You already know the diagram, the designations are also familiar to you. Therefore, it remains to be understood that the charger should be looked for under the hood or in the block inside the cabin.
2. Be sure to turn off the power to the car. To do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery.
3. Remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic cover of the mounting block in place. This is how you can easily remove the block.
4. Remove the tweezers from the mount, which are located directly inside the mounting block next to the fuses and relays.
5. Use tweezers to grab the device that you suspect is broken and pull it out.
6. Now you really need to make sure that the fuse is blown and not working. To do this, visually inspect the fusible element. If it comes off or is deformed, it means that the protection has worked, and therefore the fuse will have to be replaced.
7. But it is not always possible to detect a memory failure using the visual method. In this case, you will have to use a tester.
8. Having reached the truth, that is, having determined that the protective device has failed, it will be enough to replace it with a new one.

Today, a new fuse, depending on its type, costs around 150-300 rubles. If you need to completely replace the entire fuse box, then you will have to spend about 2,000 rubles.

Safety regulations

Now a few more safety rules:

• Under no circumstances insert homemade devices and jumpers in place of broken chargers;
• Never install fuses whose rated current exceeds the values ​​indicated on the housing cover. This may result in a short circuit and fire in the vehicle;
• Do not use metal screwdrivers or other metal tools when working with the mounting block. This even applies if the car is de-energized, that is, the battery is disconnected.

Removing the generator from the car

If you need to replace the bearing of a VAZ 2114 generator, you will need to completely remove the unit. First, be sure to disconnect the battery. Without this, repairs cannot be started - a short circuit can lead to ignition of the wiring. Then, using the key at “17”, loosen the tension of the drive belt. To do this, unscrew the nut at the top and move the housing towards the engine block. A little work with electricity - unscrew the nut from the bolt (pin “31”) and disconnect the wire going to the excitation winding.

The generator is secured at the bottom using a long bolt and nut. The latter has a plastic thread lock. At the top, the bar is screwed to the stator with one nut, and to the engine block with two bolts. Unscrew all threaded connections to remove the generator. If the threads are stuck, use a penetrating lubricant - it will get rid of dirt and rust. The generator is pulled out upwards - this turns out to be easier. But you can remove the engine protection and pull it down: on a VAZ 2114 car, the generator can be removed in two ways.

Replacing the memory

If the engine becomes unstable, electrical problems arise, light bulbs burn out, or electrical appliances stop working, the first step is to check the effectiveness and integrity of the fuses.

To do this, the following activities are performed.

1. Determine the location of fuses that may fail. You already know the diagram, the designations are also familiar to you. Therefore, it remains to be understood that the charger should be looked for under the hood or in the block inside the cabin.
2. Be sure to turn off the power to the car. To do this, simply remove the negative terminal from the battery.
3. Remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic cover of the mounting block in place. This is how you can easily remove the block.
4. Remove the tweezers from the mount, which are located directly inside the mounting block next to the fuses and relays.
5. Use tweezers to grab the device that you suspect is broken and pull it out.
6. Now you really need to make sure that the fuse is blown and not working. To do this, visually inspect the fusible element. If it comes off or is deformed, it means that the protection has worked, and therefore the fuse will have to be replaced.
7. But it is not always possible to detect a memory failure using the visual method. In this case, you will have to use a tester.
8. Having reached the truth, that is, having determined that the protective device has failed, it will be enough to replace it with a new one.

Today, a new fuse, depending on its type, costs around 150-300 rubles. If you need to completely replace the entire fuse box, then you will have to spend about 2,000 rubles.

Safety regulations

Now a few more safety rules:

• Under no circumstances insert homemade devices and jumpers in place of broken chargers;
• Never install fuses whose rated current exceeds the values ​​indicated on the housing cover. This may result in a short circuit and fire in the vehicle;
• Do not use metal screwdrivers or other metal tools when working with the mounting block. This even applies if the car is de-energized, that is, the battery is disconnected.

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