How to clean the breather on a VAZ 2106

VAZ-2101 » Engine systems » Crankcase ventilation system

When the engine is running, fuel vapors and combustion products enter the crankcase through leaks in the piston group and valve mechanism.
Interacting with atomized heated oil, these substances contribute to the formation of foam, various deposits, and volatile substances, which, together with combustion products, are combined under the general name “crankcase gases.”

In addition, exhaust gases entering the crankcase can create excess pressure in it, causing oil to leak out of the engine through the seals.

To remove crankcase gases and reduce pressure in the internal cavity of the crankcase, the car uses a closed-type forced crankcase ventilation system (Fig. 1, a. b). Oma ensures the flow of purified air into the crankcase and the suction of crankcase gases into the engine intake system for their afterburning.

The ventilation system includes: breather oil separator 5 with cover 4, gasket and pipe, supply 3 and exhaust 2 and 8 hoses with clamps, flame arrester 9, suction ventilation manifold 10 (made integral with the air filter housing), crankcase ventilation filter element I (installed in air filter housing), fastening and auxiliary parts.

When the engine is running, a vacuum is formed in the suction ventilation manifold 10. In this case, blow-by gases are sucked off through the oil separator 5. Under the influence of centrifugal force, oil particles settle on the walls of the oil separator housing and flow into the oil sump through tube 6.

The suction ventilation manifold 10 has three pipes. Connection II with an internal diameter of 18 mm is connected via a hose to the breather body. Pipe I with an internal diameter of 10 mm protrudes into the air filter and is placed in the stream of purified air flowing into the carburetor neck. Finally, pipe III, having an internal diameter of 4 mm, is connected by hose 8 to the carburetor mixing chamber through a special spool (cut-off valve), which is placed on the axis of the carburetor throttle valves.

The crankcase suction ventilation device, which at first glance seems unnecessarily complex, allows you to regulate the amount of gases sucked from the crankcase depending on the operating mode of the engine.

When the engine is idling, as well as operating at low loads, the spool in the carburetor only partially opens the bypass holes, transmitting a slight vacuum to the crankcase and allowing a small volume of crankcase gases to be sucked out from there.

When the throttle valve opens, the spool valve opens the hole completely, increasing the flow of crankcase gases into the engine through pipe III. Full opening of the holes corresponds to engine operation at 3000-3500 rpm.

And finally, with a further increase in engine speed, a vacuum is created in the area of pipe II, and the vacuum in pipe III gradually decreases.

When the engine is running, the system sucks the maximum amount of gases from the crankcase.

The vacuum created is compensated by the entry of fresh, purified air into the crankcase. It is sucked through a special filter element 1 through pipeline 3 into the camshaft drive cavity. Due to the pressure difference between the manifold of the suction ventilation system and the air supply filter to the crankcase, purified air circulates in the internal cavities of the engine during operation.

To prevent the ignition of flammable gases in the internal cavities of the engine during possible outbreaks in the carburetor, a flame arrester 9 is used, placed at the upper end of the hose that connects the engine oil separator to the suction manifold.

Maintenance of the ventilation system involves periodically cleaning the exhaust and supply pipes of its parts from deposits. Cleaning should be done after 20,000 km of vehicle mileage.

In this case, the flame arrester, pipelines and spool should be removed and washed in a mixture consisting of 30% monobutylglycol-ethylene ether and 70% gasoline.

The filter element of the ventilation system, located in the carburetor air filter housing, is replaced after 10,000 km of the vehicle, i.e., together with the air filter filter element.

You should periodically check the flow capacity and tightness of the connections at the places where the clamps are tightened, remembering that crankcase gases should not enter the engine compartment.

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Crazy monuments

Over time, tarry deposits from crankcase gases accumulate in the crankcase ventilation system, making it difficult to remove these gases into the engine cylinders for combustion.
Pressure increases inside the engine and oil leaks appear through the seals. The air filter and carburetor are also contaminated, and on the injector - the throttle assembly and the supply pipe with the sensors located in them.

All this can affect the stability of the engine, especially with high mileage. Also, you should pay attention to the integrity of the rubber hoses.

If this is not so critical on a carburetor, then on an injector, unaccounted air leaks can affect mixture formation and, accordingly, engine operation. It is recommended to clean the crankcase system periodically before changing the oil. Let's look at the example of an injection engine, combining it with replacing cracked hoses.

For this we will need: - keys for 7, 8, 10 and 13 - flat and shaped - kerosene or other flushing liquid - rags - container for flushing - new breather cover gasket - temperature silicone sealant - new hoses (different for carburetor and injector )

To begin, loosen the hose clamps on the breather cover and throttle assembly and remove them.

We clean the engine breather with our own hands on cars of the classic VAZ 2107 2105 2106 2104 family. This part serves as protection against oil leaks, since the oil always increases in volume when the engine is running, its pressure increases accordingly, it begins to look for a way out through various seals, gaskets, oil seals. The breather is installed to prevent this leak. Over time, it will certainly become dirty from incoming dirt. Periodically you need to check it and clean it for prevention; if the case is advanced, then it is better to buy a new part.

For cleaning, we use improvised materials that can be found in the garage, for example, the breather hose is wiped with ordinary wire, with a rag wrapped around it, as we see from the video, a lot of all sorts of nasty things have accumulated in it. We remove the device itself and thoroughly clean all cavities.

Video of cleaning the breather on a classic VAZ 2105 2107 2106:

This car also has a gearbox breather; it is intended for oil, which is located in the rear axle and gearbox.

#1 kostyan777

Good day! Today I washed the throttle valve and noticed that at the junction of the air supply pipe and the pipe of the large branch of the crankcase ventilation system, a sticky black tar deposit had formed. The photo shows the place where the resin formed. I understand that this “resin” is thickened oil. This means that the crankcase ventilation system is working poorly or something has worn out and the oil splashes out along with the crankcase gases. Confirm or refute my guesses. Is anything worth repairing? Otherwise, I don’t want to buy a new engine in the near future!

#2 Practitioner

It’s okay, but it’s necessary to clean the crankcase ventilation system as soon as possible; it’s probably never been cleaned. It’s all simple, you need to clean the so-called breather, you need a socket wrench set to “13”, a little kerosene, a new gasket under the breather cover (costs a penny). Remove two hoses (thick and thin), wash them with kerosene, and dry them. Take out the oil dipstick, remove the breather cap, the gasket, then the breather itself, having first unscrewed the nut to “13” (before removing the breather separator, use a felt-tip pen to mark together the breather separator body (black funnel inside with a tube) and the engine tide body, so that in the future the dipstick did not warp). Remove the breather cap, the gasket and the breather itself, carefully so that nothing gets inside and wash the removed parts in either kerosene or gasoline. Put everything back together with a new gasket, and you will be happy.

The crankcase ventilation must be flushed every 20,000 km, but I do it at 30,000 km.

kostyan777 likes this

#3 VMSP

Tar deposits are caused by untimely oil changes or low-quality oil. I have people with a mileage of more than 150,000 km on our oil, they have never cleaned the ventilation, as it was not necessary. There are no deposits in the engine, system, or valve cover. In the photo: view under the valve cover of 2115, 2006, mileage 150,000 km, never washed.

Attached images

Post edited by VMSP: 05 May 2014 - 07:08

How to clean the crankcase ventilation system on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Note! Before you start work, remove the air filter housing, as it will interfere greatly; if you do not know how to do this, then read the article entitled: “Replacing the air filter housing on dozens”!

Removal: 1) The hardest thing is to remove the cylinder head cover, but the remaining parts that relate to the ventilation system (And these are mainly hoses), removing is as easy as shelling pears, in general, let's start, first you will need to disconnect the wires from each other, namely the upper connectors (see photo 1 ) and lower connectors (Indicated by a red arrow), once this is done, remove the connectors, to do this, squeeze the two latches on one connector with your fingers and remove it (see photo 2) and do the same with the other connector, just without removing it, they will interfere, and in general you won’t be able to remove the cylinder head cover without removing these connectors, because the wires simply won’t allow you to do this, both connectors were sitting on brackets, so unscrew the bolts securing them and remove both brackets from the cylinder head cover, in more detail how to do this , look at photos 3 and 4 below.

cylinder head cover

2) Now remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head cover, it is bolted on and by the way, when you remove it, replace all the O-rings, firstly they are not expensive and secondly, after replacement, you will be 100% sure that the collector will not let air through anywhere, since the rings will be new; you can read in more detail how to do this in the article entitled: “Replacing the receiver on a 16-valve car.”

3) Then start removing the hoses, they are held in place by clamps, the clamps are loosened using a screwdriver or wrenches, if it is not convenient to work with a screwdriver, all the clamps that you will need to loosen and all the hoses that you will need to remove, you can see in the photographs a little below:

Note! Rinse the removed hoses with gasoline or kerosene, then dry them in the sun and, if possible, also blow them with compressed air (for example, a compressor), before installation, make sure that the hoses are dry, if necessary, wipe them dry with a rag and By the way, carefully clean all those places where the hoses are connected with a cloth and remove all dirt from them!

4) When everything is finished, remove the cover from the Cylinder Head, it is secured with fifteen bolts, these bolts are unscrewed with a socket wrench or a socket head and an “8” wrench, then the cover is separated from the cylinder head with a screwdriver and removed from the car, it is most convenient to separate it from the cylinder head in those places where there are special protrusions for this, one of such protrusions is indicated by a blue arrow.

5) After you have the cylinder head cover in your hands, using a wrench or a socket wrench, unscrew the six bolts that secure the separator to it (Several bolts are indicated in the large photo) and disconnect it from the cover (see small photo).

Note! This separator is an integral part of the crankcase ventilation system, it has such a part as an oil deflector, to pull it out, you will need to compress the side clamps using pliers (see photos 1,2), a rubber o-ring will be installed on the oil deflectors, it having picked it up with a screwdriver, you also need to remove it (see photo 3,4) and replace it with a new one, if such a ring is difficult to find in car shops, then you are allowed not to change it if it is in good condition, namely: It should not be too compressed, the rubber should not become rough and lose its elasticity, and there should be no cracks or other types of damage on the ring!

Installation: Installation of all parts is carried out in the reverse order of removal, but before installation, rinse everything thoroughly with gasoline or kerosene, this also applies to the cylinder head cover itself, there should be no dirt on it, and also remove old sealant (with a screwdriver or fine-grained sandpaper) the surface where the cylinder head cover is installed, after cleaning, degrease it and apply a new sealant, as it is shown in the small photo below:

Additional video: An interesting video that will give you a little additional information on the crankcase ventilation system is located just below:

Diagnostics

Since there are many reasons why oil flows through the breather, a comprehensive engine check will be required. To carry out such a check, you don’t even need to disassemble the power plant. It will only be necessary to measure a number of parameters and assess the state of the ventilation system.

For consideration, you can take a VAZ-2110 car. Let's say a lubricant deposit has formed in his engine. This indicates that oil is being driven through the breather. To find out the cause of this problem you will need a compression gauge, a screwdriver and several wrenches.

Diagnosis begins with assessing the gases escaping through the exhaust pipe. First, the engine is started and the color of the exhaust is assessed. If they are very dark in color, this indicates that oil is entering the cylinders as a result of damage to the CPG rings.

But whether this problem arises from the valves or from the rings can only be determined by the spark plug that is installed on a given cylinder. If there is heavy carbon deposits on it, this will indicate certain problems with the CPG.

If the compression is small, and the spark plug has a normal appearance without plaque, then it is worth inspecting the valves. In a situation where compression is normal in all cylinders, it is necessary to check the ventilation system.

Engine knock

If at one point you begin to hear extraneous knocks and noise when the engine is running, you need to pay serious attention to this. It is best to stop right away and try to find out the reasons. Indeed, in some cases, continuing to operate the engine can be very dangerous.

Let's look at the most common problems associated with knocking

Indeed, in some cases, continuing to operate the engine can be very dangerous. Let's look at the most common problems associated with knocking.

The main bearings are knocking. This is very dangerous, so you need to turn off the engine immediately. You will have to tow the car to the repair site. The problem can be easily recognized: the sound has a low pitch. It comes from the bottom of the crankcase and increases when you press the gas pedal. The oil pressure sensor turns on.

The connecting rod bearings are knocking. You need to turn off the engine immediately. His further work is very dangerous. You will have to go to the repair site in tow. The sound is resonant, has a metallic tint, a medium tone and a certain rhythm. Intensifies with increasing load.

Piston pins are knocking

You must continue to operate the engine very carefully. It is better to go slowly and immediately to the place of repair. The sound has a high metallic tone with sharp shades, rhythmic

If you disconnect the spark plug, it disappears immediately

The sound has a high metallic tone with sharp tones and is rhythmic. If you disconnect the spark plug, it goes away immediately.

Cylinders or pistons are knocking due to wear. You can continue driving, but without putting too much load on the engine. It is better to immediately go to the repair site. The sound is very similar to the knocking of clay dishes. It sounds more clearly until the engine has warmed up to operating temperature. As the engine warms up, it gradually quiets down.

Valves knocking

You can continue to move carefully, but it is better to head straight to the repair site. There is a dull noise with metallic knocks

Knocks are especially audible at low and medium speeds. It comes from the side where the valves are located.

Engine knock

You should immediately go carefully to the repair site. Sounds occur during acceleration

The problem is resolved by installing a later ignition. The problem may arise due to poor ignition control, due to the use of low octane fuel, or due to engine overload as a result of early engagement of a high gear. You also need to check if there is carbon deposits in the combustion chambers.

Relevance

Why do you need to install such a clever device? Due to high crankshaft speeds, oil flies through the crankcase ventilation breather and can end up on the carburetor assembly, and in the case of injection engines, on the throttle unit. And to prevent this from happening, just such a device is installed. Moreover, it is advisable to install it not only for those drivers who do not mind pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor. Those owners who have been using their car for quite a long time should also think about it. After all, during this period, the rings have most likely already worn out and do not provide proper sealing of the combustion chamber.

Lada 2106 Akkerman71 › Logbook › Crankcase gas filter.

Hi all. Another meeting of the “crazy hands” club.)) I have long been planning to make an oil dump for crankcase ventilation. I’ll write right away - the engine is in perfect order, the oil is not leaking, the pan is clean, and I recently washed the sump and replaced the flame arresters with new ones. But as the nun said, “God protects the most careful by putting a condom on a candle”)) I decided to make an additional filter. If it starts to smell bad, it’s easier to wash the filter than to tinker with the carburetor, looking for where it’s clogged. There are ready-made solutions, but paying for an aluminum can (even if it is very beautiful) 500-750 grams is an incomprehensible price for me, for what?) Moreover, having read that it is empty inside and cannot work correctly, it was decided to make it from improvised means . The main thing is that it filters possible oil ingress and is convenient to use. As a container I chose a mini flask from Atlas filters for water purification with 1/2″ inlets.

The choice was made on this option for several reasons: small size, transparent walls (convenient to observe the internal contents), and ease of disassembly (for washing or replacing the filter element). We also purchased the necessary fittings to connect the hose and stainless steel kitchen sinks for the filter itself. I chose a flask with an angular connection for the outputs, so that there were fewer bends. 1/2″ inch pipes with a Christmas tree for an 18mm hose. I sealed the connections with my favorite Uni Look; connections with it are much more convenient and of better quality than with tow or fum tape.

The top lid of the flask has space for a tube,

for which a 3/4 plastic pipe is ideally suited, heating the joint with a hairdryer produces a very strong connection. I cut the tube so that a couple of centimeters did not reach the bottom of the flask.

I put stainless steel washers on the tube itself, spreading them in the middle.

You put on 4 pieces, you get an excellent filter element, the outer side fits tightly into the flask, everything matches perfectly in size, it seems like everything was specially designed.) The flask comes without fastenings, so I had to make it myself.

The fastenings were made from stainless steel clamps mounted on rivets to a metal strip 4mm thick.

To prevent the flask from sliding on the metal clamps, I put the rubber tube scraps on the clamps, from old droppers.

I chose a place in the engine compartment for the flask so that it was not far from the air filter and would not interfere with my hands.

I attached a strip of metal to the already secured corner for the EBN.

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How to make an oil trap yourself

I decided to post my oil catcher, otherwise there is a lot of incomprehensible information on the internet

They show the finished version, but the most important thing is that it doesn’t show how it works inside. A more correct option is this

The exhaust gases must rise from below and pass completely through the scrapers. You can buy ready-made branded ones, but the cost is surprising.

They also put the tube outside, but you don’t want to breathe gases when the car is warming up, stuck in a traffic jam, or when you turn on the heater in winter.

I put it in my VAZ 2105, drove it 100 km and put it in for repairs, I need to do the engine. It is clear that oil was thrown into the carburetor before the oil sump was installed, now it will be interesting with the new engine how the oil catcher will work.

I created the diagram myself.

mesh so that the scrapers do not fall down into the emulsion

ordinary stainless steel scrapers

At the outlet of the oil catcher, I put a brush in the tube to make sure nothing gets into the carburetor.

Necessary tool

To clean the breather on a VAZ engine, check and replace the hoses, you don’t need any special skills or specialized equipment; a standard kit is enough. To complete the work you will need:

set of keys No. 7-13;
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
washing liquid, kerosene will do;
container where washing will take place;
rags;
breather gasket;
heat-resistant silicone-based sealant;
if necessary, a set of new hoses will be required - separately for the carburetor and injector.

This tool can be found in any garage, so there are no problems with its selection. It is better to take rags that do not separate into individual elements, since during washing they can get into the engine.

When and how often do you need to repair the gearbox on a VAZ 2107?

(“Volzhsky Automobile Plant”) provides comprehensive information on when and how often the gearbox needs to be repaired. It turns out that this mechanism does not have a service life as such. The only thing AvtoVAZ engineers insist on is the timely replacement of transmission oil:

After the first 2 thousand kilometers on a new car.
After 60 thousand kilometers.
Further, as necessary, depending on the care of the owner and the frequency of use of the car.

Accordingly, the plant does not have any specific wishes or requirements for preventive or repair work. However, in any case, regardless of the mileage, it is necessary to carefully monitor all the nuances in the “behavior” of the box, since repairs will be necessary if the slightest malfunction occurs.

In winter, due to temperature changes, the box experiences additional load

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