GAZ 3110 from 11.2002, manufactured, standing in a yard in Moscow, bought in the summer - the new owner has no experience with GAZ, drove a little after the purchase - in the surrounding area, last time - 3-4 weeks ago, 1st gear was difficult to engage from the moment of purchase - everything else is quite normal.
After moving it to a more convenient parking spot, 3-2 weeks ago, the car does not drive - there is no need, the tires are summer and the main thing is that the speed has stopped turning on.
The car warms up from time to time, the battery is recharged, BUT it is simply impossible to turn it on with the engine running from neutral, neither 1st nor reverse (or any other).
When the engine is not running, any gear is easy - it doesn’t matter whether the clutch is disengaged or not.. disengage the clutch, start it, move it forward.. or back until it’s time to shift..
What could it be - problems only with the switching mechanism, or with the box itself - help the kettle!
Re: the gears don't turn on - at all! There seems to be a normal amount of brake fluid in the clutch pedal, the clutch pedal is the same when pressed - with the engine running or not running, the free play is clearly greater than that indicated in the book..
I forgot to write, maybe the most important thing is that the gear shift lever rotates freely and can move up and down about five centimeters - maybe that’s the whole point?
Help me out, I got caught again with my VAZ 21103. A week ago, all gears stopped turning on when the engine was running, but when it was turned off everything was fine. Afterwards, I had difficulty getting to the service station: with the engine off, I put it in 1st gear, depressed the clutch and let’s start it – it started, only while the starter was running, the car began to move jerkily while the clutch pedal was depressed. The service was already closing, I left the car on the street until the morning. When I come in the morning, everything is fine as if nothing had happened - everything switches back to normal. But I decided that I still needed to open it and see what was there. At the same time, I drove into the service center on my own with excellent gear shifting. In general, we took off the box and changed the clutch fork and release fork, because the old release fork had ground 0.5-1 mm into the mounting points on both sides. The basket and disc are fine - they ran half of them until they started replacing them.
After repairing the gearbox, gazelle gears do not engage well
Gas 31105 406 engine 5-speed gearbox
Gentlemen, they’ve changed everything - but it’s hard to get into gear, they say that’s how it should be. Well, it shouldn't be like that! Yesterday I drove a Volks, and the gearshift lever is just like a joystick on a computer, there is NO effort at all when shifting, WELL NO AT ALL. I'm shocked (((it's not 2 times lighter, not 3, but 33 times lighter, that is, you don't feel the box at all. Okay, to hell with them, the fascists)))
That's what I think - what exactly is there in the box that gives such force when turning on and off speeds while driving? Maybe there's something snacking there? Or is there no lubrication somewhere? Maybe there are some thoughts, I’ll take it off myself and poke around, these service lamers seem to know as much as I do in this box.
Wow, Matiz cars have the same problem)))
PS Is it okay that I shortened the link here? Can?
I won’t create more topics, I’ll ask here. I replaced all the bearings in the box, the howling disappeared, BUT: 1) It is absolutely impossible to turn on the 3rd one, the lever simply DOES NOT fit there. No way. But, if you turn on 4th and then 3rd, then everything is OK, no resistance/difficulties. Well, it turns on after the fourth. Why. (4th one goes very easily, just like before the bulkhead)
2) The 2nd one began to “growl” when turned on after the 1st ALWAYS, and after the 3rd it was impossible to turn it on at all!
Before changing the bearings, everything turned on perfectly, except for the bearings I did not change anything. What did I do wrong? Where to dig? I will accept any version)
PS Yesterday I took the synchronizer ring for the 2nd and 3rd crackers, I wanted to change it, but the downpour charged (. So I’ll be there today, and if it’s more or less clear with the 2nd, then what could happen with the 3rd.
2 Zeus156, are these “crawlers”? Yes, I did. But not everyone has their place, but “how it turned out” because... When disassembling the secondary shaft they fell out. But about the forks. I'm not sure. Those. At first I had them on pieces of paper by number, and then a guy came (to help me collect them) and mixed them up, and since I didn’t have lithol, he didn’t collect them for me. The only sign is that when removing fork 1-2, the rod lifted up a little with the fork, and when I put it back in place, I put in the one that climbed worse, but I’m absolutely not sure that this is correct. BUT the ends of forks 1-2 and 3-4 are of different lengths!. One of them is 2-3 mm larger. I don't know how to check if the installation is correct
2 GRAY, turning it on abruptly is just the way out of the situation, but unhurriedly (as usual) doesn’t work at all.
Source
After repairing the gearbox, gazelle gears do not engage well
I have a problem: I leave the house in the morning, everything is fine, but 200 meters before leaving the main road the box refuses to engage all gears. After the nth number of ignitions it is stuck. Although when the ignition is turned off, everything switches without problems. I'm afraid to drive around the city, all gears constantly jam.
Repair history: 1. In May of this year, the following was changed: clutch disc, crankshaft bearing 3110, 3302, release bearing assembly.
2. Now, when these symptoms appeared, the following were replaced in the gearbox: bearing 50307 of the input shaft of gearbox-5, bearing 50706 of gearbox-4, gearbox-5, bearing 50305 of gearbox, gearbox extension oil seal 38x56x10, gearbox-5 input shaft oil seal 35x48x7, gearbox gaskets +5 (0.4 mm), input shaft roller Gearbox-5, Gearbox-4, synchronizer ring Gearbox-5, SIBISuper T-3 oil, Gazelle needle bearing.
The repair according to point 2 did not lead to anything, the symptoms appeared again. The mechanic advised me to raise the clutch pedal, I drove about 15 kilometers and the next morning everything happened again. During these 15 km, I noticed one peculiarity: the 2nd gear, even when driving at a speed of less than 20 km after the 3rd, does not stick at all and you have to stop and engage in order, first 1 and then 2, which is not always good.
3. After that, we changed the clutch assembly, drove 3 km and everything repeated again.
Help, what's the problem?
It's a matter of adjustment, IMHO.
On the 406x the clutch is automatically adjusted. Only the pedal stroke is adjusted, the rest is self-adjusting.
kosta, we didn’t look at the cylinders: they said they either work or they don’t, and since the clutch pedal behaves well, they are apparently in good working order.
Added after 26 seconds GastroVoZ, the clutch assembly has just been installed
agree. Most likely it's a hydraulic issue. air\fluid bypass\airing.
They didn’t look at the cylinders: they said they either work or they don’t, they should be hit in the head with these cylinders for such explanations.
It's a matter of adjustment, IMHO.
Yes, about the adjustment, I’m half asleep :rolleyes:, long-term operation of VAZs, relapse.
