When the generator breaks down on a Lada Priora car, owners in many cases turn to a service station. But it is not always possible to use the services of professionals, so in this article we will analyze in detail the entire dismantling process with our own hands. If the car is not equipped with an air conditioning system, then difficulties usually do not arise. But if there is air conditioning, then the task of removing the generator on a Priora turns into a real “dance with tambourines.” This is evidenced by numerous posts on auto forums, which are full of “kind” words addressed to AvtoVAZ designers. Is it so? Let's figure it out.
Features of removing a generator on a car with air conditioning
In a Lada Priora car with air conditioning, the air conditioning compressor and generator are driven by one belt. The design feature is such that it is impossible to dismantle the generator without removing the compressor. You must first disconnect the air conditioner pump from the bracket. This is the first difficulty encountered.
Generator Lada Priora from Bosch
A possible second problem awaits at the lower mounting of the generator. If the bolt is installed with the head towards the engine, it will not be possible to completely remove it. It is so long that it rests on the engine mount, and it is impossible to remove the generator. To remove the bolt, you need to jack up the engine and unscrew the mount. We advise you not to use this method. It’s easier to buy a new bolt and cut off the old one with a grinder. When installing the generator, install a new bolt, but with the head facing outward. This way you will save 10-15 minutes of your time in the future.
Preparation and necessary tools
It is more convenient to remove the generator on a Lada Priora on an overpass or inspection hole. Before you begin dismantling, prepare the following tools:
- locksmith's crank;
- extension;
- cardan from the tool kit;
- heads for 10, 12, 13, 17;
- spanners for 10, 12, 13, 17.
- WD-40 product.
When driving onto a pit or overpass, do not forget to install chocks under the wheels so that the car does not roll spontaneously. Then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Apply WD-40 to the mounting areas of the generator and air conditioning compressor. Wait 10-15 minutes for the product to take effect.
Step-by-step instruction
- Remove the engine protection from below.
- Remove the ridge belt driving the air conditioning compressor and generator.
- Disconnect the contacts from the generator: first, under the rubber protective cap, terminal B+ (it is secured with a 10 nut), then terminal D (white chip). Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the generator contact
- Unscrew the top mount of the generator from the top of the engine compartment with two 13 mm spanners. Using two 13 mm wrenches, unscrew the top mount of the generator
- Remove the bolt. Remove the generator mounting bolt
- Unscrew the lower mounting bolt from the bottom of the engine compartment using a 17mm wrench. Unscrew the lower mounting of the generator with a 17mm spanner.
- Unscrew the compressor mount to the bracket with a 12mm wrench. The compressor is secured with 4 bolts: one short, three long. Start with the bottom ones. It is more convenient to unscrew the upper ones using a wrench, an extension, a universal joint and a 12mm socket. Start with the lower bolt securing the air conditioning compressor
- Move the compressor first downwards, then to the right towards the body side member. There is no need to remove the tubes. On a note. It is not necessary to secure the compressor. It will be held in place by the surrounding parts.
- Remove the bolt with metal sleeve from the lower mounting.
Remove the bolt with metal sleeve from the lower mounting of the generator - Pull the generator down from the engine compartment. Pull the generator down from the engine compartment
Video report: How to remove the generator on a Lada Priora?
To clarify the process of removing the generator on a car with air conditioning, we suggest watching the video:
If you use the necessary tools and follow the instructions given above, you will be able to remove the generator on a Lada Priora with air conditioning in 40–60 minutes. Have you ever had to remove the alternator on your car? If yes, please share what difficulties you encountered and how you solved the problems. This can be done in the comments after the article. Let's help each other!
Let's get acquainted, my name is Dmitry Kuznetsov. (2 votes, average: 4 out of 5)
So, I was inspired to start replacing or repairing the generator. The blog will be edited and later I will tell you in more detail what, how and with what I performed this task.
Now the generator has already been removed, manufactured by KZATE. After removing the casing and removing the voltage regulator, it became clear that this was the reason.
And the question has arisen as to what to change it to. Waiting for your suggestions.
So, I will begin to describe the technology of the process.
Tools required to perform work on removing the generator and replacing the generator belt:
1. Socket wrench for 13. 2. L-shaped socket wrench for 13. 3. Socket wrench for 17. 4. Open-end or socket wrench for 10. 5. L-shaped socket wrench for 10. 6. Socket wrench for 8 , or a bit with an extension for 8. 7. Driver. 8. Extension funnel. 9. Head E10. 10. Head for 17. 11. Phillips screwdriver. 12. Jack. 13. Key for tensioning the generator belt roller. 14. Hammer. 15. A candle wrench or a pipe to create a shoulder. 16. Flat screwdriver.
Unscrew the negative terminal of the battery.
Unscrew the fastenings of the air conditioner cooling pipes on the fender and radiator mounting frame. (Key to 
We unscrew the bumper mounting bolts: 2 under the wing, 2-3 from the bottom, at the place where the casing is attached, all the bolts securing the bumper to the radiator mounting frame to the right headlight. (Crosshead screwdriver)
Unscrew the protective cover of the left headlight. (Crosshead screwdriver)
We pull off the bumper from the left wing.
Unscrew the headlight mounts. The bolt is under the front bumper and where the headlight is attached to the fender at the top. (A 10mm L-shaped socket wrench, or a screwdriver with an extension and a 10mm bit) Unscrew the headlight mounting bolt at the bottom of the fender. (Crosshead screwdriver)
We pull out the headlight a little, disconnect the connector, take out the headlight, carefully bending the bumper without breaking the headlight mounts.
We remove the absorber tubes by pressing the keys on the suitable tubes on both sides. Then unscrew the 2 bolts securing the absorber and remove it. (open-end wrench 10)
Unscrew the tension roller of the generator belt and remove the belt. (Open-end or socket wrench 17)
Unscrew the bolts securing the engine protection at the front. (open-end wrench 13 + shoulder screwdriver)
Unscrew the nut securing the wires going to the generator and remove the chip. (Key to 13)
Unscrew the top bolt securing the generator. This can be done from above. (2 keys for 13, socket + L-shaped socket)
Unscrew the bottom bolt securing the generator. (Wrench with head 17 + L-shaped socket wrench 13)
We remove the generator through the headlight, carefully twist it so as not to damage the paint on the radiator mounting frame. To do this, I first wrapped it with a rag.
To remove the voltage regulator, remove the cloth cover, very carefully, the clips are very easy to break off. Carefully bend the fasteners so that they fit into the places where they are fixed and use a flat screwdriver to lift the casing around the perimeter.
After which it will be possible to remove and inspect the voltage regulator and other components of the generator.
To replace the alternator belt, use a jack to lift the engine a little, right through the protection. We choose a flat place for the stop so as not to get on the oil drain plug.
Then, using the E10 head, a wrench with an extension and a shoulder for emphasis, in the form of a Pipe or a spark plug wrench, very carefully move the engine mount mounting bolts.
We do this very carefully! The bolts are very easy to break! First, slightly tap the knob with the head onto the bolt so that the head fits snugly!
After the bolts are unscrewed, gradually raise the engine with a jack until there is sufficient clearance to remove the belt. We take the belt down. A gap slightly less than the width of the belt was enough for me.
To replace the belt, a 6RK1115 belt was purchased. When checking, the roller did not make any noise, so I left the old one. We check the roller by quickly rotating the roller. If there is a hum or other unpleasant sounds, we either lubricate it or change it.
How to remove a generator without air conditioning from a Priora with power steering: detailed instructions with photos and videos
Without much further discussion, let's get straight to the point. For ease of work, it is recommended to install the vehicle on an inspection hole, if available. However, this is not a prerequisite, since you can reach the generator mount from below and without a hole. Be sure to begin dismantling work by first removing or disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. This will protect the car from shorting the wiring.
On a Priora without air conditioning with power steering, the process of dismantling the generator is performed in the following sequence:
- First of all, using a key set to “17”, you need to loosen the bolt securing the tensioner pulley. There is no need to remove the bolt together with the roller if you do not plan to replace them. Remove the alternator belt from the pulley and move it to the side.
- Using a wrench set to “13”, unscrew the nut of the upper mounting of the generator. If necessary, hold the bolt with a key set to “13” on the other side. After unscrewing the nut, remove the bolt from the upper mounting of the generator. The photo shows it already removed.
- Now we move on to unscrewing the lower mount of the generator. To do this, we first remove the engine protection (if it is, and if not, then it is better to install it after completion of the work). We move down and unscrew the nut with a wrench at “13” of the lower generator mount. After this, we pull out the bolt, which is impossible to do on Priors with power steering. It will definitely rest against the engine mount bracket.
- And this is where the fun begins. Further actions throw everyone involved in the dismantling into a stupor. To remove the bolt, you need to remove the spacer sleeve from the side where the nut is located, as indicated in the instructions class=”aligncenter” width=”600″ height=”494″[/img]
- However, in practice this does not work, and after removing the bushing, the bolt still cannot be pulled out. That is why there are already proven methods on what to do correctly in this case in order to remove this bolt. The first method can be called anti-vandal. To implement it, you need to install a jack under the engine and jack it up.
- Next, in the engine compartment, we find the rear engine mount (aka guitar) and use a “15” key to loosen fastening No. 1 in the photo below. Having unscrewed the nut of bolt No. 2 (also with a key set to “15”), we pull it out (we do not pay attention to the air conditioner pipe, these instructions are specifically for Priora without air conditioning).
- We perform the same procedure with the front engine mount. Unscrew the nut with a 15mm wrench and remove the bolt. At this point, the engine must be secured with a jack so that it does not fall down.
- Unscrew the right support nut using a 17mm wrench. There is no need to remove the right airbag unless you plan to replace it. If you need to replace it, it is secured with two bolts with a Torx-E10 socket head.
- Next, slowly and carefully jack up the engine until the power steering pump pulley rests on the right cushion bracket.
- You can now remove the lower alternator mounting bolt. After this, the unit is removed. We’ll look at how best to do this a little later. For now, the second option is how to remove the lower bolt of the generator on a Priora. This method, unlike the first, is called vandal. To implement it, you will need a metal file (not a hacksaw, but only a blade).
- The blade is used to saw the bolt leg. There is no need to cut completely, but until it bends to be removed from the seat. If you cut the bolt completely, a new problem will arise. The rest of it will be difficult to get.
- We remove the bolt from the seat after bending it, and now all that remains is to disconnect the wires from the generator and begin dismantling it.
- In this case, it is important to purchase a new bolt to replace the deformed product. The original part has the number 21100-3701376-00 and standard dimensions M8×110. The bolt is installed back on the other side so that next time you don’t have to worry about removing it.
- Disconnect the “D+” wire connector from the device. After this, we move the rubber protective cover aside and use a “10” key to unscrew the contact nut “B+”. The negative terminal on the battery must be disconnected (check again).
- Now we remove the generator. If the engine has not been jacked up, then it is better to remove the device from below in the gap between the engine and the radiator.
- If the engine has been jacked up, the generator can be removed from the engine compartment.
Further actions with the removed generator depend on the type of its malfunction. After repair or in case of replacement, installation is carried out in the reverse order.
Below are video materials that show how to remove a generator on a Priora with power steering without air conditioning by lifting the engine.
And also a video instruction, which shows in detail how to saw off the lower mounting bolt of the generator on a Priora with power steering (without air conditioning), and remove the device from below.
Another method of removing a generator on a Priora is described in the video below.
Disassembly and assembly of the Lada Priora generator (VAZ-2170)
We disassemble generator 5102.3771 to check and replace the voltage regulator, rectifier unit, rotor, stator and bearings.
Checking the generator is shown in the “Fault Diagnosis” section.
The voltage regulator can be replaced on the car without dismantling the generator. For clarity, we show the replacement of the voltage regulator on a removed generator.
Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the nut...
...and remove the terminal from the “D+” terminal of the generator.
Using the “8” socket, unscrew the three nuts securing the casing.
Remove the generator casing.
Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the screw securing the voltage regulator output.
Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the voltage regulator.
Remove the voltage regulator.
We remove the gasket. To disassemble the generator...
...remove three washers from the casing mounting studs.
We use a marker to mark the relative positions of the generator covers.
Using a 7-point socket, unscrew the four bolts holding the covers together.
Remove the back cover with the stator assembly. If the stator does not come out of the front cover, pry it off with a screwdriver from different sides relative to the front cover.
We put a high “24” head on the pulley fastening nut and through its hole insert a “8” hexagon into the hole of the rotor shaft. We unscrew the pulley fastening nut, holding the tool head with a pipe wrench or in a vice.
Remove the spring washer.
...and a spacer washer.
We push the rotor shaft out of the front cover...
...and remove the cover. To replace the front bearing...
... use a slotted screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing the bearing pressure plate.
Remove the pressure plate.
Use your hands to push the bearing out of its seat...
...and remove it. If it is not possible to push out the bearing, we knock it out using a mandrel or tool head of a suitable diameter.
To replace the rear bearing...
...using a two-jaw puller we press the bearing from the rotor shaft. When performing this operation, the puller screw should be pressed exactly into the center of the shaft so as not to damage the plastic insulator of the rotor slip rings. To install the puller grips, two flats are made on the plastic rotor bushing.
If it is necessary to remove the rectifier unit or stator...
...unsolder the six terminals of the stator winding from the terminals of the rectifier block... ...and unscrewing the three fastening nuts with an “8” wrench, remove the rectifier block and the stator.
We assemble the generator in reverse order.
To install the rear bearing, we rest the front end of the rotor shaft on a wooden block...
...and press the bearing onto the rear end of the shaft using a mandrel or a piece of pipe of suitable diameter, applying force only to the inner ring of the bearing. If the front bearing cannot be inserted into the generator cover...
...press the bearing into the cover using a suitable tool head, applying force to the outer ring of the bearing.
Video on the topic “Lada Priora. Disassembling and assembling the generator"
Repair of the Priora generator, Repair of the Lada Priora 115A generator. Bulkhead of the VAZ 8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15 Priora, Gazelle Volga, Sable generator.
Without electricity, nothing will work. So on a car, the voltage in the on-board network is maintained by a generator. You need to understand how many amperes you need in the on-board network.
It all depends on the amount of attachments, air conditioning, heating, etc. Depending on the configuration, a generator is also selected. Read the article to the end and we will cover this topic. Removing and replacing the generator on a Lada Priora car depends on the attachments; if the car does not have air conditioning, then the unit can be removed in 6 steps. If the air conditioner costs 9 steps, we will talk about them in the article. This part on Priora comes in 3 types. Their prices are also different.
The installation location may vary for different car brands and models. You should look for it in the engine compartment, near the rubber cushion on which the engine is mounted. 90A article 3282.3771, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.
Generator for Priora produced by BATE price from 4120 rubles
- Weight 5.5 kg
- LxHxW 200x170x200 mm
- Rectified current 90 A
- Power 0.98 kW
- Voltage 14 V 100 A
It has article number 5132.3771 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.
Generator for Lada Priora with air conditioning manufactured by Pramo price from 4200 rub.
- Maximum rectifier current 100 A
- Weight 5.3 kg
- Voltage 14 V
- Power 233 W/kg
- Internal cooling
- Stator diameter 125 mm
- 115 A
It has article number 9402.3701-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.
- Maximum rectifier current 115 A
- Weight 5.2 kg
- Nominal voltage 14 V
- Power 1610 W
- Stator diameter 125 mm
- Length 188 mm
- 115 A
It has article number 9402-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.
120 A Has article number 9402-3701-14P, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.
- Maximum rectifier current 120 A
- Weight 6 kg
- Nominal voltage 14 V
Manufacturer ATE-1 cost from 4000 rub.
Priora. Generator repair.
The generator made a loud noise during operation.
99% that this is due to the bearings.
We remove the generator from the car. To do this, simply unscrew the lower ear bolt and the upper ear adjusting bolt. We take it to the workbench.
The initial inspection did not show any severely damaged bearings, but a small amount of play was still present. In advance, the owner of the Priora purchased a set of two generator bearings.
Remove the pulley and rear plastic casing. To remove the pulley, we use the original generator belt for the noose. This makes it easier to unscrew and tighten the pulley mounting nut.
We visually inspect (for now) all the elements for burnout, fraying and soot. I didn't like the wiring from the capacitor. The insulation on it had melted. Or frayed. During assembly, I insulated it with electrical tape.
The brush assembly with voltage regulator is new. There are no questions for him. But the copper current collectors are not so hot. The continuity test, voltage regulator and diode bridge did not reveal any anomalies. Everything is in working order.
Now it's up to the bearings. By the way, the plastic support sleeve of the rear rotor bearing, which is located in the rear cover, must also be replaced.
We completely disassemble the generator. We take out the winding and half the covers.
It is better to remove the bearings themselves from the rotor using normal pullers.
True, I had an incident that caused me a lot of trouble. Not because of my crooked hands, but because of my crooked eyes. The domestic manufacturer made the rotor shaft from such raw metal that during the process of pressing out the front bearing, I did not see that under the action of the puller rod, the rotor shaft simply flared out... like plasticine.
And there is a threaded part on which the pulley is seated and the nut is tightened. Thread M14, thread pitch 1. I cursed at myself for a long time...
Anyway. The second problem is that from a set of new bearings, the rear one fit, but the front one turned out to be larger than the old one.
I called the owner and by the evening I had the required bearing. I went to a specialized store and luckily they had the die I needed in stock.
We press on new bearings.
All that remains is to repair the flared threaded shaft. Grinded around the circumference. And cut a new thread.
After which the pulley stood up as it was. Tightened the nut.
All that remains is to put the generator in place. Check the voltage on the battery, start it and check the voltage on the battery with the generator running. In our case, there is charging, everything works quietly and smoothly.
And now, in terms of a lyrical digression. Since the owner of the Priora is a friend of a friend of mine, we started talking. He says that the maintenance of this generator cost him the same as a new one. Considering that I charged him 1000 rubles for such work, I’m surprised. A new one costs around five?! It turns out that he had already changed the “tablet” at some service for 1,800 rubles. 300 rubles per tablet and one and a half thousand for the work! He says they removed the generator from the car while he was there, and that’s why the cost of the work is so high.
Dear Prior owners
