The dashboard of the VAZ 2107 injector does not work when the ignition is turned on


Reasons for the battery not charging

For proper operation of the ignition system and other electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107, the voltage in the on-board network must be constant. When the engines are not running, the battery maintains constant voltage. After starting the engine, the car's generator comes into operation, charges the battery and maintains the on-board voltage within 13.6-14.2 volts.

Regardless of the speed, the voltage on the generator must remain constant. This is ensured by a relay regulator, which, depending on the speed, changes the voltage of the generator circuit. If the voltage drops below the permissible level, the winding current increases, increasing the output voltage and vice versa.

If there is no charging on the VAZ 2107, possible reasons may be the following:

  • poor contact or break in the excitation network of the generator output voltage;
  • the relay regulator is faulty;
  • broken generator belt.

Troubleshooting the generator should first begin by identifying the cause of the lack of battery charge.

What to do if the instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 does not light up

When the instrument panel on a VAZ 2109 does not light up, this is one of the common malfunctions of this unit. To fix a problem, you first have to find the cause of its occurrence.


Tidying up nine

Types of panels

Instrument panels on the VAZ 2109 are of at least three types:

  • Low panel;
  • High panel;
  • Electronic panel on nines with Europanel.


Europanel
On versions with a low panel, failure of the entire panel is extremely rare. This is due to the fact that here the speedometer and econometer are equipped with mechanical drives. Therefore, it is unlikely that they will fail along with the electrical component.

Dashboards with a high panel do not have an econometer, but the speedometer is also based on a mechanical cable drive.

Why doesn't it light up?

If suddenly electrical appliances and indicator lamps on the dashboard stop working, certain actions must be taken.

  1. First, remove the cover of the mounting block and make sure that the fuse is intact. The fuse markings are located on the inner surface of the cover. You should look for fuse F16 or F5, depending on the year of manufacture of your VAZ 2109.
  2. If the fuse is intact, be sure to check whether the contacts of the fuse you are looking for have not oxidized. It is not uncommon for shields to fail due to broken contact.
  3. Check if there is power to the dashboard. To do this, you will need a warning light and the ignition on. Disconnect connector X4 in the mounting block and check for voltage at pin 3. The disadvantage of the VAZ 2109 design is that when it rains, the mounting block immediately becomes wet. This causes oxidation of the contacts in the pads, which causes the electrics to stop working. Sometimes not only the contact is oxidized, but also the board of the Nine mounting block.

If none of the above actions yielded results, you will have to be disappointed. After all, now you need to remove the dashboard and check the condition of the wiring, contacts, and negative connections. Here it is better to trust a professional electrician or set aside a whole day to troubleshoot problems yourself. There is no need to rush here.


Where did the backlight go?

Popular faults

If we talk about the dashboard of VAZ 2109 cars, then they are characterized by certain problems. We will tell you about them, and also tell you how to act correctly in a given situation.

Fault typeYour actions
Gasoline level and temperature indicator does not workIn most percent of cases, this situation occurs due to breakdown of devices, sensors of these devices, or an open circuit of the power supply. Therefore, first check the circuit for continuity, make sure that the fuses have not blown. If this is not the case, check whether the gas level and temperature sensors are working. Only if none of the actions allowed you to get rid of the breakdown, you can begin to replace the devices themselves. No options, the problem lies in them
When the fuel tank is full, the arrow points to zeroIf you have worked on the fuel level sensor, the fault most likely lies with you. When manipulating this device, the float limiter is often knocked down. Either the limiter is installed incorrectly or adjusted, causing the resistor winding to end. To resolve the problem, remove the sensor and then adjust the limiter again
The fuel gauge needle regularly jumps and ends up at zeroHere, most likely, the resistor has weak contact with the current collector. Another possible option is that there is a break in the resistor. To resolve this situation, we recommend replacing the hot level sensor with a new measuring device
The fuel level lamp is constantly onIf this lamp is constantly on, there is probably a short circuit in the fuel level sensor supply wiring to ground. Another option is that the sensor’s flexible bus is shorted to the fuel intake pipe. You will have to disassemble the device to align the bus and get rid of the resulting short circuit
Indicator lamps do not work on the dashboardThere is a high probability that the light bulbs have simply burned out, or they are poorly held in their seats due to loose contact. Replace the bulbs, but first try tightening the contacts. Traces of oxidation may be detected. When cleaned, the light bulbs can work normally again. Also, do not exclude the possibility of wiring breakage or oxidation of the tips of the supply wiring. Try going over the wires with a tester, cleaning the contacts if necessary.
The speedometer does not work, the flexible shaft is noisyIn such a situation, you will have to change the speedometer drive cable or replace the entire speedometer assembly. But before you bother so much, check that the fastening nuts of the tips are tightened correctly and properly. The flexible shaft may make noise during operation due to deformation or violation of the permissible bending of the shell of less than 10 centimeters during installation


Last resort - complete dismantling

The instrument panel of the VAZ 2109 is not so complicated that you cannot figure it out on your own. But in the absence of experience, it is better to entrust the repair to specialists, or to enlist the support of a partner who understands this matter.

How to find the reason for the battery not charging

The first sign of a lack of charging is the warning light on the instrument panel coming on or if the voltmeter needle is not in the green zone when the engine is running. You can more accurately check the voltage on the battery using a multimeter.

When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should be – 13.9±0.3 V. If the battery is not charging, the voltage will be approximately 12 V.

Warning: to avoid damage to the ECU and regulator relay, do not remove the battery terminals while the engine is running.

Increased or decreased voltage of the on-board network harms the battery. In the first case, the electrolyte boils away, in the second, it is discharged, which leads to failure of the battery.

To find the problem and fix it, you will need the following tools and devices:

  • control lamp 12 V;
  • multimeter;
  • knife;
  • flat screwdriver;
  • pliers;
  • sandpaper.

Troubleshooting with your own hands

The oil can icon may not light up for various reasons:

wiring problems;

malfunction of the sensor itself;

the indicator light has burned out;

The fluidity of the oil is temporarily impaired due to low temperatures and prolonged storage.

The first three reasons can be considered a signal to action, since they must be eliminated as soon as possible for safe operation of the machine. The fourth reason has only one way out - start the engine and wait for the oil to spread throughout all components and parts.

The first indicator on the left shows malfunctions in the engine lubrication system

Preparing the tools

To troubleshoot the oil pressure light, you may need the following tools and devices:

screwdriver with a flat thin blade;

new indicator light;

Operating procedure

First of all, car enthusiasts are advised to start by inspecting the sensor and its connector, and only then move on to solving other issues.

If the sensor has a whole body and the connector is connected correctly, then it is recommended to check other elements of the system

To make it easier to find a fault, it is better to adhere to the following operating scheme:

Check the connector that connects to the oil pressure sensor. As a rule, the sensor is located on the engine cylinder block, usually on the rear side. You can find out the exact location of this element in your car's manual. It is recommended to remove the connector, make sure that it is clean and free of dirt, and then connect it back. If this simple procedure does not help, move on to the second point.

Measure the oil pressure with a pressure gauge. It should be within the range specified in your vehicle's owner's manual. If this is not the case, change the oil pressure sensor.

After this, you can remove the wiring from the sensor and connect it to the engine ground. If the oil can in the passenger compartment does not start to burn, then you will have to check the entire wiring or change the indicator light.

It is easier to replace the light bulb on the indicator - it is quite possible that it has simply burned out, and therefore does not light up at those moments when it is necessary. It is enough to remove the protective strip from the instrument panel, unscrew the old lamp and insert a new one.

If this does not help, then the last chance to fix the problem is to replace the wires. You can usually visually notice abrasions or breaks. It is recommended to immediately replace the entire wire rather than trying to rewind it with electrical tape.

Video: what to do if the oil pressure light does not light up

That is, in any case of malfunction of the oil pressure lamp, it is recommended to begin inspecting the car with the sensor and its connector. According to statistics, it is this element that fails more often than others.

Troubleshooting battery failure

The first step is to check the tension of the alternator belt - it is what drives the alternator and coolant pump, so this malfunction can also manifest itself as engine overheating.

If the VAZ 2107 battery charging lamp does not light up, and the voltmeter shows the normal voltage of the on-board network and the battery does not charge, the reason is obviously in the contacts at the terminals.

You need to remove the terminals from the battery and clean them with sandpaper. If charging does not appear, it is necessary to measure the voltage at output “30” of the generator with the engine running. If the voltage readings at this output and the battery are very different, you need to clean the contacts and check the wire running from the generator to the battery. If the wire is faulty, it must be replaced.

If the voltage in the on-board network is within the limits when the engine is running, but when the headlights are turned on, it drops, the reason is the weak tension of the alternator belt. Under increased load, a weak belt slips. The correct belt tension is when, with a force of 10 kgf, it should bend by 12-17 mm.

Another reason for the lack of charging may be a short circuit or break in the stator or rotor winding, as well as a broken rectifier diode on the generator.

Diodes can be tested using a test light or multimeter to check their resistance. To check the diodes using a test lamp, you need to remove the “+” terminal from the battery and connect the test lamp with one end to the positive terminal, and with the other you need to sequentially touch the three bolts shown in the figure below. Then do the same operation, only with the “-” terminal. If the control lamp lights up, then the diode being tested is broken.

If one of the diodes fails, it is necessary to replace the diode bridge assembly.

A malfunction of the stator winding can be determined with a multimeter by measuring the resistance between the rectifier unit mounting bolts. If there is no contact between them, then there is a winding break. In this case, the winding or generator assembly is changed.

Probably the most common cause of generator failure is brush wear. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly. The length of the brushes must be more than 5 mm, otherwise they need to be replaced. Brushes can also become jammed or skewed in the wells.

Note: the injection generator is no different from the generator of the carburetor version of the VAZ 2107. All tips for repairing and checking the generator are relevant for both modifications of the car.

Source

Dimensions of VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 do not light up


On VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars there are 4 side lights (dimensions): one in the front headlights and one in the rear lights.
Failure of any of them to work is a fairly common occurrence. Let's look at the reasons for this malfunction - “why the lights on VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars don’t light up.”

Symptoms of a malfunction: “VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 dimensions do not light up”

One dimension, two dimensions (front or rear, right or left side, crosswise) or all of them may not work.

Causes of the malfunction “dimensions of VAZ 2104, 2105, 2107 cars do not light up”

The side light bulb is burnt out

The most common reason. One light bulb, or several at once, can suddenly burn out. In some cases, it may be impossible to visually identify a burnt-out light bulb. Therefore, we replace the burnt out one with a known good one. You can use a similar one from a nearby headlight.

The contacts of the light bulb in the socket have oxidized

We rotate the light bulb in the socket several times to remove the oxidized layer and restore contact. In the future, you can clean everything with sandpaper.

What to do if the battery is boiling

The lamp goes out, the voltmeter needle goes to the right into the red sector, and there is a sharp “chemical” smell in the cabin. At idle, the needle is in the green sector, but as soon as you accelerate, it goes all the way to the right. This indicates that the voltage regulator (chocolate) has failed . If this happens, moving on is more expensive! All the electrical equipment of the car may burn out, and the battery will get damaged, the electrolyte will “boil”, the plates may become warped. To get to the repair site, you can temporarily turn off the generator by removing the wire from terminal “61” of the generator. You can drive for quite a long time on a good battery, just don’t forget to turn off unnecessary electrical appliances - heater fan, heated rear window, radio, etc. Headlights or running lights will have to be left.

Voltage too high (overcharge)

This article describes a simple way to determine if the alternator, voltage regulator, or connections between them are faulty. How to repair all this in the next article .

It turned out that the wire on the device in the plug had become loose and did not connect, the lamp came on when I fixed it and the charge started

I turn on the ignition, the right headlight is on and there is no charging

Source

All instruments and sensors on the instrument panel have failed

After purchasing my VAZ 2106, literally a couple of days later, the following trouble awaited me.

When the ignition was turned on, neither the emergency oil pressure light nor the battery charging came on, and the gasoline level sensor did not work.

At first I thought that the battery terminal had simply come loose, but then I checked and everything turned out to be normal. Just in case, I decided to turn the starter, and as it turned out, everything worked, it turned and the car started up normally.

But even after this, none of the instruments and sensors worked; by the way, the tachometer also stood still and the needle did not budge. This was the picture with the ignition on and even the engine running, all the instruments froze tightly:

I decided to check all the fuses, since I simply could not see any other reason for what was happening. Since the location of the fuses in the mounting block of the VAZ 2106 was not familiar to me, I decided to check everything at random. I took the fuses out of the block one by one and inspected them.

It was already quite dark, and not at first glance all the veins on each fuse were intact. In the morning I checked everything again and saw that on one side, barely noticeable, the wire had burned out. The photo below shows the fuse that is responsible for the functionality of the sensors and devices of the VAZ 2106.

After I replaced it with a working one, all the sensors and arrows started working and everything fell into place.

So, if someone has a similar problem, or this is your first time encountering this, keep in mind that the fuse, which is shown in the middle photo in this article, is to blame. I hope that my experience will be at least useful to someone.

The dashboard of the VAZ 2107 does not work, no charging

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The instrumentation has failed except the speedometer, the turn signals do not work, only emergency lights, no charger,

Judging by the diagram. 1) fuse F10 in the mounting block 2) relay (No. 4 according to the diagram) 3) ignition switch Further based on the above. Connection diagrams. Turning and emergency lights https://www.autoprospect.ru/vaz/2105-zhiguli/images/7-34.jpg Tidy https://www.autoprospect.ru/vaz/2105-zhiguli/images/7-41.jpg

The backlight does not light up

Well, let's move on to the most important thing, namely finding the reasons in the event of a failure of the instrument panel. So, the first thing you need to do is check the fuse that controls the tidy.

On the VAZ 2107 this is fuse F10 (10A) which is located in the mounting block. If necessary, this fuse must be replaced.

If you checked the fuse and it is ok, then the problem is in the instrument panel itself. First you need to remove the instrument cluster and check the two black wires that are attached to the car body. As you may have guessed, this is a mass; you need to check whether the contact is seated well and how well the fastening nut is tightened. You also need to check the contact blocks.

The most common reason why the instrument panel does not work is the pins, which are attached with rivets, and such a connection is not very reliable and due to vibrations and other shaking, the contact disappears, and the instrument panel of the VAZ 2107 car stops working or works intermittently.

This is especially noticeable at sub-zero temperatures while the seven-cold panel in the cabin does not work, and after warming up, when the metal expands a little, the contacts are restored again and the tidy starts working again. But as you understand, this is not an option to drive like this.

In order to fix this, you need to remove the aluminum rivets that hold the board and get to the connectors of the pads.

Then, using a soldering iron, you can restore the contacts. And after that, you can forget about the disease of the instrument cluster of the VAZ 2107. And yes, by the way, instead of the rivets that were drilled out, you can screw in self-tapping screws. Well, that's all for this, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. Bye everyone.

Theory “on fingers”: how everything works

On the VAZ 2107, devices can receive power from 2 sources. The first is the battery, the second is the generator. The battery supplies energy when the engine is turned off. It has a certain charge, consumed as needed. The generator produces electricity, but only if the rotor is spinning. That is, with the engine running.

Battery operation diagram: 1. Battery, 2. Negative diode, 3. Additional diode, 4. Generator, 5. Positive diode, 6. Stator winding, 7. Regulator, 8. Rotor winding, 9. Capacitor, 10. Mounting block, 11. Control lamp, 12. Voltmeter, 13. Ignition relay, 14. Lock.

The battery charge is used to start the engine. When the engine starts running, the battery energy is not consumed: the generator supplies all devices with it. A charge is also supplied to it to restore wasted energy. But if the battery is not charging, its own energy will be enough for a limited number of starts. The battery will then be completely discharged. And the car owner will have to solve the problem of how to start a VAZ 2107 if the battery is dead. After all, not everyone has “crocodiles” in their trunk, and not everyone will agree to share electricity with their battery.

What does the oil pressure lamp show in a car?

On the instrument panel of any vehicle there is a lamp in the form of an oil can. When it lights up, the driver understands that something is wrong with the engine or the oil pressure. Typically, the pressure light comes on when the oil pressure in the system is low, when the engine does not receive the required amount of lubricant to do its job.

Thus, the oil can icon serves as a warning about emergency oil pressure in the engine.

The oil can icon is highlighted in red, which the driver can notice immediately and take appropriate measures

Indicator light

As can be seen from the diagram, the charging system involves a large number of components and each of them can cause poor charging or its absence. To monitor the battery charging process, the car's dashboard is equipped with a control light.

If the system is in good working order, the control signal turns on after the factory. But when the engine enters operating mode, the VAZ 2107 battery charging light does not light up. This means that the battery's energy supply is replenished from the generator. At the same time, the needle on the voltmeter moves to the green sector.

Signs of a battery not charging:

  • The VAZ 2107 battery charge arrow twitches.
  • The control signal does not go out. In some cases, the VAZ 2107 battery light blinks.
  • The voltmeter needle does not go to the green zone after starting the engine.
  • When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery should remain around 13.9.
  • The permissible deviation in any direction does not exceed 0.3 V. Undercharging of the VAZ 2107 battery within these limits is not yet dangerous.

A voltage drop to 12 V says: the generator is not charging! lamp is dimly lit - the battery is undercharged.

The dashboard of the domestic “Seven” and its features

Like any car, the VAZ 2107 is equipped with an instrument panel. It is necessary so that the driver can monitor the condition of his vehicle. The article describes the instrument panel installed on the “seven”: the main elements and their purpose. In addition, instructions are given for removing the panel and tuning information.

Where to start checking

If the VAZ 2107 battery icon does not light up, the voltmeter gives normal readings, but the battery does not charge, which means there is no (or insufficient) contact at the terminals. Their severe oxidation can cause the voltage from the generator to the battery simply not to flow. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the terminals, thoroughly clean them, as well as the battery terminals, then reconnect the battery to the on-board network and check the functionality of the charging system.

In the case when the voltage on the VAZ 2107 battery is still below normal, you need to measure it at the output from the generator with the engine running. Is there a big difference between the readings on the terminal and on the battery? Try cleaning the contacts and checking the wire connecting the battery to the generator. Broken - requires replacement.

Tidy VAZ 2107: icon designations

If everything is clear with the main elements and arrow indicators, the indicators need to be deciphered.


The bulk of the light bulbs are located strictly in the center of the panel. There are 7 control indicators in the column; their explanation is presented in detail in the pictures below.

  • Next is the check engine fault indicator. The light bulb is used only on injection engines.

  • The third one from the top is a faulty battery. If the indicator lights up, this indicates a breakdown in the generator line (the battery is not charging).

  • In the middle of the column there is a light bulb for turning on the dimensions. This indicator indicates normal operation of the device.

  • An indicator for activating the main beam of the head optics is installed even lower. The blue indicator indicates that the exterior lights are operational and working properly.

  • The penultimate light is an indicator of the critical oil pressure in the engine crankcase. If it lights up constantly, you need to add fluid to the required level or check the functioning of the pump.

  • The last place the manufacturer placed the parking brake activation indicator. Usually the light comes on when the lever is raised.


Also on the dashboard you can see a yellow diode indicating a critically low fuel level in the tank.


The light comes on only when the container is empty and there is no more than 5 liters of gasoline remaining.
The instrument cluster is not equipped with an emergency warning symbol; it is located on the power button.

Identification of buttons

Several switch keys can be installed on the car’s dashboard, which are responsible for activating certain elements and parts of the car. The following is a description of the main buttons on the car dashboard.

NumberPurpose
2Turn on the sound signal.
6Headlight position regulator.
10Emergency button.
13Heater switches.
14Dashboard lighting.
17The panel contains switches for external lighting, heater fan, foglights, and heated rear window.
19A light that requires you to fasten your seat belt.
20Reserve socket.

VAZ 2107: exclamation mark on the panel

A similar indicator appeared on the dashboard only in modifications of recent years. The symbol indicates the need to check the brake system.

The battery light on the dash 2107 is on

ECON on panel 2107: what does it mean

A thoughtful but simply executed car detail. The dial indicator shows the fuel mixture consumption in real time. The option helps the driver save fuel.

What else to check

  1. Voltage regulator;
  2. Generator rectifier unit;
  3. Diodes;
  4. Generator for broken windings;
  5. Generator brush assembly;
  6. Contacts on the terminals of the generator, mounting block.

A malfunction of any of these elements leads to the fact that the charging system is inoperative and the VAZ 2107 battery is not charged.

Let's continue... Diodes are checked with a test light or multimeter. If one of them is broken, the entire rectifier will have to be replaced.

To check the stator winding you need the same device. The resistance between the fasteners of the rectifier unit is measured. If there are no contacts between them, you need to replace either the winding or the entire generator.

The generator itself often fails due to wear on the brushes. To check them, you need to remove the brush assembly and measure the length of the elements. If it is 5 mm or less, the brushes must be replaced.

Almost all of the above system components are replaced when they fail, since they cannot be repaired. Only some of the generator problems can be repaired, but this can only be done by a qualified auto electrician.

The worst thing is if problems with recharging occur while on the road. Without recharging the battery, it will eventually run out completely. And even if you manage to find the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it, you will no longer be able to start the engine with the starter. It will be possible to start a VAZ-2017 with a dead battery only from a tug or pusher.

The oil pressure light does not light up, what are the reasons?

In some cases, the driver may encounter a different kind of problem: the pressure is low, but the icon on the instrument panel does not light up. That is, if there is a real problem in the engine compartment, the alarm signal does not come into the cabin.

Or, at the moment of starting the engine, when the entire set of indicators lights up on the instrument panel, the oil can does not blink:

It happened to me myself, only a little differently, I turn on the ignition, everything lights up except the oil can, I start to start it and during the starting process this oil can blinks, the car starts and everything is fine. I had this glitch a couple of times, now everything is fine, maybe there was a bad contact on the sensor, or maybe the light in the dash is dying... But I’ve been riding for about a month now, everything is fine...

Sergio

https://autolada.ru/viewtopic.php?t=260814

The oil pressure lamp should light up at the moment of ignition, and go out when the engine is fully started. This is the standard indicator for all car models.

Does not light up when the ignition is turned on

This is one of the most common problems with the oil pressure sensor, since it is the sensor that sends the signal to the indicator in the cabin. If, when you turn on the ignition, the oil can blinks, but does not light up like other indicators, the fault is due to a short circuit in the wiring.

It is recommended to remove the wire from the oil pressure sensor and short it to the housing. If the oil can still does not light up, then you will have to change the wiring - perhaps there are kinks in the wires somewhere or wear of the protective braid. If the light comes on when the wire is shorted to the body, then the wiring is in order, but it is better to replace the pressure sensor - it will continue to “deceive” you further.

If the sensor stops functioning, this can be easily checked by shorting the wire to engine ground

Doesn't burn in cold weather

Operating any car in winter is associated with some difficulties. Firstly, the oil needs time to warm up and regain its normal fluidity. And secondly, every car mechanism needs careful attention in winter, since at subzero temperatures it is very easy to ruin the performance of a particular system.

If the oil pressure lamp does not light up in cold weather, this cannot be considered a malfunction. The thing is that when the engine starts, the sensor may simply not take the pressure readings and therefore remain inactive. The car needs time for the engine to warm up completely and for the oil to regain its normal fluidity.

If at sub-zero temperatures the oil pressure lamp does not light up, then this cannot be called a malfunction.

What to consider when choosing a new battery

According to the passport, the battery is designed for 3-5 years of active use (in reality it turns out to be less). Therefore, over time, it becomes necessary to buy and connect a VAZ 2107 battery instead of a failed one.

When purchasing a new battery, you should consider a number of parameters and characteristics. Battery type: serviced and maintenance-free. The first option allows you to check and replenish the electrolyte level. This makes it possible to use the battery longer.

The next question is: what power will the battery on the VAZ 2107 be most efficient. Batteries with a capacity of 50–60 Ah are suitable for this model. However, given that modern cars are equipped with energy-intensive equipment, it is better to opt for more capacious batteries. In addition, carburetor VAZ models require more powerful batteries - they consume more energy when starting. In terms of dimensions, the VAZ 2107 requires power supplies with dimensions of 242*175*190 mm. The vast majority of samples available on the market fit them.

When choosing a battery, you should also take into account the place of residence of the owner of the “Seven”. For those who live in the south, you can purchase a less powerful battery. Northerners are advised to prefer a battery with a higher capacity: in the cold, the car starts with high energy consumption.

Tips for motorists

When the instruments and warning lights on the instrument panel stop working, the driver of any car, including the VAZ-2107, becomes uncomfortable in the cabin of his car, since he will not have enough information that the instrument panel provides, as when starting the engine , and while driving.

The first thing drivers usually do is check fuse F10 (10A) , located in the mounting block and the condition of its terminals. If the fuse has not blown, then the cause of the failure of the instrument panel will have to be looked for in it itself. Therefore, we remove the instrument panel and in the left corner we look for two double black wires that are attached to the car body. This is “ground”, we check whether there is good contact and whether the fastening nut is tightened.

At the same time, immediately see if the pads are completely recessed, and you can also disconnect them and check the condition of the contacts. It happens that during installation they were bent, but due to vibrations they move away from each other and the instrument panel stops working.

But the most common reason for instrument panel failure is that the pins are attached to the instrument panel circuit board using rivets, and this connection is not reliable. As a result, the contact is lost, and the instrument panel stops working completely or works periodically, then turns on and off. This is especially evident in winter, until the interior of the car warms up, the shield does not work, and when a certain positive temperature is reached, due to the expansion of the metal of the rivets, contact is restored.

To eliminate this reason, you will have to drill out the aluminum rivets that hold the switching board and get to the connectors of the pads. Considering that the connector blades are riveted with copper rivets and not soldered, this is why contact is lost, which can be restored using an ordinary soldering iron. Then this disease of the instrument panel of the VAZ-2107 car will disappear forever. When assembling, you can use self-tapping screws instead of drilled aluminum rivets.

The instrument panel stopped working, doesn't show anything, the generator also stopped working, the fan stopped working, everything that works from the ignition switch, I looked at the lock, even just checked it with wires, still no, also the fog lights connected to the positive wire of the ignition switch also don't work, the fuses are all working, the car starts but works only on suction and then it troits.

Sorry for such a slow response. If your car has an alarm system, this may be the reason; you need to look for a relay that opens +12v at the ignition switch. In any case, it is better to check the wiring completely. A short circuit in the generator is also possible, but in this case the battery got very hot and discharged quickly.

Good day! Could the battery lose its charge due to poor contact on the pins to the printed circuit board? My devices don’t work in cold weather and the handbrake light comes on when the handbrake is lowered and goes out when it’s raised. As soon as the temperature in the car warms up, everything falls into place and works normally.

Nurzhan, I found the reason, I have the same problem, I planted the battery, rummaged through all the circuits, it doesn’t work, and the mine is burning at full heat, I only found the instrument relay listed above, cleaned it - zero effect, I also found a broken wire from the reverse frog, I remember from his neighbor was missing, maybe a signal?

Good afternoon, can you please tell me the reason why the instrument lighting disappeared on the VAZ 2104, checking the lamps, contacts, fuses, and then I changed the heater radiator and then it disappeared, what else?

Please tell me, I have a VAZ 2105 injector when I turn off the engine and take the key out of the ignition, the instrument panel remains under voltage, the battery light is on, the oil light is dim, the temperature and charge indicator arrows partially go down but remain in the working position.

On the classics this is solved by soldering the panel

How to solder a socket correctly

Good day. Please tell me what could be the problem in my car 2107, in the cold, first the turn signals failed, then the entire instrument panel, and the battery stopped charging, already change the fuse block, changed the turn signal relay, checked the ignition switch for serviceability and the instrument panel is all working.

And I changed the alternator voltage regulator relay, the car itself works fine

The sensors of device 2107 do not show when it is cold, but when it warms up everything shows, please tell me

The torpedo is the most important component of the car interior: it houses all the instruments and indicators that help the driver control his car. It will be useful for the owner of a VAZ 2107 to be able to identify and troubleshoot instrument faults, and, if necessary, replace them independently.

Confronting attackers

Due to the fact that the battery is not cheap, the issue of protecting the VAZ 2107 battery from theft is quite acute. It’s not difficult to open the hood of a “classic,” which is why thieves are keeping a close eye on the “Sevens.”

Experts offer several options for preventing theft.

  • Secure parking or secure garage.
  • installation .
  • Installation of the hood lock. Let’s be clear right away: few people take this step. Welding work is required, the appearance deteriorates, and it is quite easy for a professional to pick the lock.
  • Take the battery with you. Labor-intensive, inconvenient, but effective. On the other hand, if the car is left for a short time, it is defenseless: they can even remove the battery in a supermarket parking lot.
  • Reliable battery fixation. Almost the most popular method. The fasteners are secured with a secret that prevents dismantling and makes theft difficult. In combination with an alarm it is a very effective technique.

But all experts agree that the most reliable protection for the VAZ 2107 battery against theft is comprehensive. A combination of multidirectional measures will give the best results!

The process of removing the instrument panel

Experts draw the attention of readers to the fact that the description of the process of removing the VAZ-2107 dashboard corresponds to the description of other models of all editions. Having prepared the tools, as well as new parts, you can begin dismantling. In this case, you should adhere to the following order:

  1. Before starting work, be sure to de-energize the VAZ-2107 car by removing the negative terminal from the battery to avoid a short circuit.
  2. Using a flat (slotted) screwdriver, remove the three caps that are responsible for the operation of the heater and are placed on the levers.
  3. Using a slotted screwdriver, remove the plastic plugs that have a heating sign.
  4. Unscrew the nut and washer, which are located near the emergency alarm button.

Having completed all of the above, the VAZ-2107 dashboard, or rather its right side, will weaken. Next, you need to perform a few more manipulations in order to finally dismantle the device. You should pull out the right side, thereby freeing up a free passage to the rear, and then disconnect all the wires and chips. First of all, remove the power button chip of the VAZ stove. It is important to remember the exact location of all wires. Our experts recommend taking photographs of everything to ensure proper reassembly.

The next step in removing the VAZ-2107 dashboard is to remove the speedometer cable, which is attached with a nut. It is easy to unscrew without the help of screwdrivers. Next, the chips are removed. All of them are an integral part of the instrument panel. They differ from each other in the form of different fastenings, so they cannot be confused during assembly. Next, you need to remove the hose from the fitting, which is located to the left of the device. After all that has been done, the VAZ-2107 dashboard is dismantled.

After completing all the work of removing the panel, you can easily diagnose all the lamps and control devices located under this device. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. The process does not cause any problems. Any motorist and VAZ owner, even those without experience, can handle it.

Replacing dashboard light bulbs

The first and quite logical problem due to which the instrument lights do not light up is the failure of all or just a few light bulbs at once. In this case, the only solution would be to replace them. It is performed as follows:

  • The most difficult task will be dismantling the entire dashboard, which, unfortunately, is necessary to install new lamps. This, in turn, requires disconnecting all electrical connectors, the econometric hose and disconnecting the speedometer cable. You will also have to remove an additional panel, under which there are connectors for the cigarette lighter and the lighting system;
  • we unscrew the failed control and illumination lamps;
  • We install new products that are selected according to the characteristics specified in the vehicle specification.

The last step of the procedure is to reinstall the dashboard, secure it and connect all the disconnected wires and hoses.

If you intend to replace the torpedo backlight bulbs, you should know that there are only four of them. They are located in pairs at the top and bottom of the dashboard. In addition, control indicators are located under it, which allow you to see:

  • fuel and battery charge level;
  • indication of the inclusion of high beams and side lights, activation of the handbrake;
  • indication of turn signal activation;
  • lubricant pressure in the engine.

Instead of conventional incandescent light bulbs, which are installed by default at the factory, today you can use LEDs. They provide a range of benefits. Firstly, they last much longer and significantly reduce the load on the vehicle’s on-board electrical network. Secondly, you can significantly improve the appearance of the torpedo by installing LEDs of different colors. But such a replacement will cost a little more than installing standard lamps.

Torpedo VAZ 2107 - its description and purpose

The torpedo (or dashboard) is the front panel of the car, on which the instrument panel, various indicators and indicators, air ducts, etc. are located.

The VAZ 2107 torpedo consists of a large number of different elements:

  1. Ashtray body.
  2. Bracket for securing the glove box lid lock.
  3. Ashtray.
  4. Glove box lid lock.
  5. Decorative panel insert for radio receiver mounting.
  6. Radio receiver mounting panel.
  7. Insert for the bottom panel of the radio receiver.
  8. Covering the radio receiver mounting panel.
  9. Insert for the top panel of the radio receiver.
  10. Blank for the windshield heating symbol display.
  11. Dashboard.
  12. Loudspeaker cover.
  13. Dashboard.
  14. Instrument panel insert.
  15. Glove box body.
  16. Glove compartment lid.
  17. Glove box lid hinge link.
  18. Instrument panel shelf.

Replacing the steering column switch VAZ 2107

On the VAZ 2107, the steering column switch (also called tube) is a three-lever switch. With its help, the driver controls the turn signals, headlights, windshield wiper and headlight washers.

Reasons for replacing steering column switches may be:

  • faulty contacts (turns, headlights do not work);
  • mechanical wear of the horn contact;
  • control lever failure.

Replacing the steering column switches is carried out as follows:

  1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Set the steering wheel to a straight position.
  3. Remove the decorative trim from the steering wheel.

Inside, we disconnect the eight-, six- and two-pin connectors of the voltage supply harness and remove them from the bottom of the dashboard.

After dismantling the old steering column switch, we install a new one. After putting the steering wheel on, tighten the fastening nut. If all levers and signal are functioning normally, the work can be considered complete.

The torpedo is the most important part of any car. Without indicators showing fuel level, speed, malfunctions in the vehicle, it is impossible to control it properly. If desired, the owner of a VAZ 2107 can replace the dashboard with a more beautiful, comfortable and ergonomic one. In addition, it is useful for every car enthusiast to know how to replace individual dashboard devices if they malfunction.

What to do if for some reason the instrument panel lights of a VAZ-2107 car do not light up? This problem does not particularly affect driving safety, but still creates some discomfort for the driver. At night, it will be quite difficult for him to navigate by eye without seeing the tachometer, speedometer, battery or fuel charge level indicators, so it is better to fix the malfunction as soon as possible.

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