The search for possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 instrument panel does not work periodically worries one or another owner of cars of this model. It’s clear that if you don’t see a single parameter on the dashboard, you can only drive, as they say, by touch. True, there are certain specialists who still managed to somehow crawl to the base without all the evidence, but somehow I don’t want to follow their example.
And is it necessary to create additional troubles and the risk of accidents on the road? So the majority of those to whom this incident happened still get to work (or wherever they were going) by public transport in order to return to solving the problem in the evening on their own or with the help of a familiar mechanic.
Why does the VAZ 2114 instrument panel not work? Offhand, we can name several reasons. However, they may not exhaust the entire list, since the individual characteristics of the car may appear. We will try to talk about this and many other equally interesting things in our article today.
The most common breakdown
Before digging into the inside of the car, check how securely the ground wire leading to the front panel is secured. A restless passenger in front often simply pulls him out of his place with his feet. To prevent the situation from repeating itself, after fastening it is worth insulating the wire from reach. The situation is a little more complicated
Its signs are very characteristic:
- All indicators do not work:
speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel level recorder, coolant temperature sensor; - The rest of the equipment - optics, radio, even the panel backlight - turn on normally and do not act up;
- The ignition works properly, the car does not refuse to start;
- Fuse F3 is
almost 100% . It is located in the mounting block and will have to be changed. But first you need to find out why it was covered, otherwise the new one installed will suffer the same fate. In most cases, a short circuit is to blame for burnout. On well-used VAZ-2114, the fuse often blows after each wash. Instead of carrying a spare one, you need to figure out where moisture is getting into it.
If the fuse is intact, this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life.
How to identify a malfunction
There was no indicator screwdriver, just a small flashlight and some thin copper wire. It was decided to identify a blown fuse in the mounting block by dialing. For this diagnostic method, it was necessary:
- disassemble the flashlight;
- cut one wire (in the flashlight circuit);
- add two small pieces of wire (about the same cross-section) to the ends of the cut wire;
- close the flashlight key (turn on the flashlight).
As a result, the result was a homemade device for testing individual circuits and, in particular, for testing fuses in the mounting block located under the hood on the driver's side. You, of course, understood how to use such a “device” (two wires with bare ends are taken, which are subsequently connected to the fuse contacts). The two wires brought out from the flashlight serve as “device probes”, when closed, the flashlight light comes on.
A blown fuse was subsequently found (identified) in the mounting block, this is a 7.5 A fuse F10, which is responsible for lighting:
- devices,
- engine compartment
- and car number.
There was no spare fuse of the same type in reserve and, accordingly, the question arises: How can I replace the fuse?
Hard case
Until now, situations have been sorted out when the torpedo still showed some signs of life. If non-working power windows, turn signals, and windshield wipers have been added to the devices, the issue is no longer a matter of relays and fuses.
There may be 2 options:
- The contacts on the ignition switch are burnt
. In principle, after installing the relay (even on the VAZ-2109 version), this problem rarely arises. However, the possibility remains. The lock is removed, the contacts are checked and, if necessary, cleaned; - Mounting block
. There may be burnt tracks on its board. The only thing that will save you is replacing it with a new one. However, the cost is by no means astronomical, and the installation is available as a standalone option.
Auto-assistance
The instrument cluster of the VAZ-2115 passenger car is considered a fairly reliable device, but, as is known, in any production some kind of defect may occur, which subsequently leads to its failure to operate. Well, the second common reason for the complete failure of instrument readings is unqualified intervention when eliminating local faults in it.
The likelihood that all the sensors on which the operation of the devices depends will fail simultaneously is negligible. But, given that the sensors do not work directly with the instruments, but through the electronic control unit, its failure will naturally lead to the fact that the instrument cluster will not work. Moreover, along with it, the engine will not work.
The speedometer needle is driven by a stepper motor. The tachometer has a similar design, but the fuel level indicator in the gas tank and the coolant temperature indicator in the engine cooling system are driven by magnetoelectric mechanisms. From this we can conclude that their operation directly depends on the presence of supply voltage at the terminals of the instrument cluster terminals. Therefore, if they all refuse to work at the same time, then the driver will first need to check fuse F16 (15A).
To check the fuse, you won’t even need to open the hood and mounting block; just turn on the turn signals or hazard warning lights. If they do not work, it means that fuse F16 has blown and the driver will have to look for the cause of its failure by sequentially checking all the electrical circuits that it protects.
When fuse F16 turns out to be intact, then you will have to remove the instrument cluster and check whether voltage is supplied from this fuse to terminals 9 and 10 of the white block X1 and terminal 2 of the red block X2, since the speedometer, tachometer, temperature gauge receive power through the white block, and through red block fuel level indicator. If there is +12 volt power at these terminals, it means that the devices do not work due to poor contact of the wire going to the ground of the car body (terminal 1 of block X1 and terminal 3 of block X2).
If there is no +12 volt power supply at these terminals, then you will have to disassemble the mounting block, in which most likely the track on the board going from the fuse terminal F16 to the power terminal of the instrument cluster has oxidized or burned out.
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Private situations
General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions.
If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. It may have a cracked gear that needs to be replaced.
Also, why doesn’t the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 work? If the fuel gauge and tachometer are capricious (either they function, or they don’t react at all), the contacts and the mounting block are normal - you need to do a small check.
Reset is pressed and held, and the ignition is turned on at the same time. Raised arrows indicate the need for further searches. Lifeless - that microcracks have appeared in the shield itself. You will have to remove it and examine all soldering and traces under a magnifying glass. In principle, these are all the main options. If calling all the listed components and parts did not lead to the revival of the instrument panel, your case is individual, and you will have to determine the situation in the company of an experienced auto mechanic.
The instrument cluster on the VAZ-2115 has gone out
Good day everyone. Help, comrades. All the arrow indicators on the instrument panel of the VAZ-2115 “died.” At the same time, it has a backlight, almost all the lights of various signaling devices and direction indicators are on. The engine starts and runs normally. The shield itself was removed, all the terminals in the blocks “ringed” directly from the battery - the indicators do not respond (only someone’s terminal sparks on the tachometer). The question is, is the instrument cluster itself dead or should I look elsewhere? And one more thing: the pulse signal to the stepper motors arrows is already modulated on the shield board itself, do I understand correctly?
The answer to why the instrument cluster does not work on the VAZ 2115
- Most likely something to do with the internal power supply (stabilizer)
- What are you saying, everything is step-by-step... in vain you poked 12 volts of course... there is a tidy test (with the ignition off, hold down the mileage reset button, then just turn on the ignition - and the test begins (the arrows begin to move on their own))))))
- Shortened for whatever reason...
- I didn’t bother calling anything, I just removed the mounting block (where I should have started properly), took it apart, and here it is - the track has rotted. Hereditary disease "Samar" due to the "brilliant" decision to place the montage. block in the “swamp”…. I soldered the jumpers, voila: the devices started working. Well, I already said about displays...
