Rear beam on a VAZ 2109 - installation and repair of the rear beam

The other day the car started to quit when accelerating, I had to park it near the house for a week, I didn’t have time to figure it out. The day I went to the garage to see from the pit what the problem was, everyone looked at me in surprise: I was driving, but they were following me with their eyes. Hmm... Strange.

Entrance to garages, country road. There were 300-400 meters left to my garage, and... I hear a wild grinding sound from behind. I stopped to inspect the car, and there:

On a hummock, the beam fastening was torn out of the spar. I drove to the garage with God's help. The beam was dangling and the car was being tossed. I had to apply more gas to move the car. Guys, this is an example of what you should never do

, since such actions may cause even more problems and breakdowns. Read on to find out what troubles awaited me next.

I flew up to the garage with wild noise and ringing. The neighbor in the garage was staying with his buddies at that time. When they ran out, they remarked to me that I would have to change the entire suspension, and when they examined it further, they completely upset me - I needed to digest the spar.

The garage is open, the most difficult thing remains - to get into this small opening when the car is thrown from side to side. But this problem turned out to be not the most important one; my battery ran out. The men, for which I am eternally grateful to them, lifted the car from behind and pushed me into the garage.

I was no longer in the mood to work on the car today, so I just looked at the bottom, took a couple of photos and stomped home in a despondent mood. Here are those photos:

I thought for a long time: buy a body from disassembly, or try to restore this one. It was difficult to find a healthy body, so I decided to cook it anyway. Two days later, that’s how long I was looking for a welder who was ready to take on this work, we, together with him, came to the garage so that he could look at the problem live. I prayed that he would take the job because... I couldn’t find those who work outside. And yeah, they agreed that I had enough electrodes and a nickel. Perhaps expensive, but I had no other options.

The next day I called a friend, with whom we removed the beam along with the racks. I had to tinker, since I didn’t have a puller for the struts, and I couldn’t use the keys. In the end, all nervous, I borrowed two hundred and bought this puller. Removed. And here it is, the problem that I spoke about above: my rear left pillar was broken. It just stopped working. The handbrake cable broke. I don’t know how seriously its breakage could have caused damage, but the pads seem to be intact, since after bleeding the brakes the car slows down.

Read more: Do-it-yourself camber for Renault Logan

Cars of the VAZ-2108-09 family are not distinguished by a strong body or durable body iron; the metal rusts especially quickly if it is not treated with anticorrosive. Over time, rust appears on the metal surface, and the rear spar often rots on either side, and cracks appear on it during use. If you drive for a long time with a rotten side member, the rear beam can tear out, which will lead to unpredictable consequences. To avoid a major nuisance or even disaster along the way, it is better to change the spar in advance; this work can be done in a car service center or with your own hands in a garage if you have sufficient experience, the necessary tools and materials.

Tags: rear beam came off, repair of mounting for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115

Comments 34

It didn't hurt too bad

normal. everyone is alive and well. basin HFCH

The most important thing is that everything is fine)))

electrode MP-3 or some other?

No, esab’s ones are exclusive. MP3s blow God knows where. But these ones are just a fairy tale. The troika cooks almost the entire bodywork in my hands. Occasionally I cook one and a half www.esab.ru/ru/ru/

It's clear. I'll have to promote myself there additionally

our EVERYTHING was pushing!

I don’t know how the chisels work, but on my 12th coupe, no matter how you lift it, the doors close perfectly

into the jack or into the threshold? into the threshold through a meter board? specify...

I always put it in the threshold, I don’t put anything in it. Only a diamond jack with a recess for the threshold

I think that the thresholds have already been changed, and a thick amplifier has been welded in. You shouldn’t exaggerate the capabilities of the Lada

I’m the only owner, only if someone cooked it at night while I was sleeping))) I can, of course, not be lazy and shoot a video tomorrow or the day after tomorrow

come on, jack the end of the door into the threshold, and hang out the whole side.

well, a jack at the end of the door is not a problem, but hanging the side with such a jack simply won’t work

come on, jack the end of the door into the threshold, and hang out the whole side.

counter question, why didn’t they show the whole side on the video?

Then I’ll try to hang the whole side with a normal jack, I’m even curious)))

from 2 approaches to the front jack - the entire side is hung

Well done, I wasn’t afraid, of course I almost got to this point, the new spar was torn, I also opened it from the interior, reinforced it with plates, since one pin attaching the beam to the spar was torn off (thanks to the stampers for their contact welding of these pins), it was drilled right through hole, and pulled off the pin with engravers, and drove for six months with a torn spar =) the beam also danced and the car was constantly chattering, there is also a blog entry if you’re interested

The need to remove the rear beam may arise for many reasons. This has to be done when strange sounds are heard (dull blows, metallic ringing, squealing rubber, etc.) coming from the rear of the car when turning, on bumps and holes, or constantly. Sufficient experience is required to identify the real problem. The problem can be caused by various reasons:

• silent blocks worn out or torn to the side (this creates a feeling when one shock absorber “disappears” when turning - the knock is quite sharp and strong),
• The stabilizer may be knocking,
• There may be play in the axle bearings, as well as a number of other reasons.

It is recommended that diagnostics be carried out by specialists, despite the fact that repairs are planned to be carried out independently.

Rear beam replacement procedure

• While the car is on the ground, you need to loosen the nuts on the wheels, after which you can raise the car.
• Remove the shock absorbers on both sides of the rear suspension.
• Disconnect the parking brake cables and remove the cable jackets from the bracket located on the body.
• Bend the brackets securing the cable to the body, then pull both cables out of the brackets. This is done to provide convenient access to the beam mounting bolt.
• From the bracket, which is located on the rear axle beam, you need to disconnect the earring through which the elastic lever of the pressure regulator drive passes, which is connected to the lever bracket.
• Disconnect the brake hoses from the tubes on both sides of the beam. To prevent brake fluid leakage, you must immediately close the holes with something.
• On each side, unscrew one nut from the bolts securing the beams to the brackets.
• Knock out the bolts (they can “sit” quite tightly, so you can hit them quite hard). After this, the beam can be removed, for which it can simply be rolled out on wheels.

Useful tips

• Before disassembling the beam, you need to loosen the tension of the hub nuts and other connections that are tightened with a large torque.
• It is recommended to change rubber-metal hinges in a specialized workshop - this requires special tools, as well as experience in such work.
• The instruction manual states that the beams must be dismantled together with the brackets by unscrewing the three nuts holding them in place. But due to long-term use of the machine, the studs can rust and therefore easily crack. For this reason, it is recommended to remove the beam by disconnecting it from the brackets - it is better to let them remain on the body.

The beam is installed in place in the reverse order; there are no pitfalls here. After the car is already on the ground, you need to tighten all the nuts. It is also necessary to check everything after 80-100 km. After installing the beam in place, the brake system must be bled, the parking brake must be adjusted, and, if necessary, the camber and toe must be adjusted.

Repairing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109

The rear beam of the VAZ 2109 is an unreliable thing, and the owners of this car may have a large number of reasons to remove it. For example, the owner of a vehicle may hear unusual noises: grinding metal, quiet impacts, etc. These “special effects” will be heard in the rear of the VAZ 2109. The sound can be either constant or occur occasionally, for example, when there are bumps on the road.

1 — rubber-metal hinge; 2 — rear suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 — shock absorber casing; 4 — compression stroke buffer; 5 — casing cover; 6 — support washer; 7 — shock absorber cushions; 8 — spacer sleeve; 9 — shock absorber; 10 - insulating gasket; 11 — rear suspension spring; 12 — lever connector; 13 — rear suspension beam arm; 14 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 - flange; 16 — lever bushing

It is very difficult for a person who does not have the necessary experience to determine on their own what caused new noises in a car. This is due not only to a lack of practice, but also to the large number of variants of the problem. So, for example, a knocking stabilizer can “move” the silent block to the side, the noise can often be caused by bearings on the axle shafts - in general, there are many options. Therefore, to find out the exact problem, it is recommended to go to a service center and carry out the repair yourself.

Beam structure

On the inside, brackets with special holes necessary for installing shock absorbers are attached to the suspension arms. There are also flanges located there, bolted to the axle of the rear wheels and shields located on the brake mechanism. Bushings are attached to the suspension arms on the front side. They are inserted into hinges made of a special rubber-metal material.

Bolts pass through them, connecting the suspension arms together with the stamped-welded brackets. They, in turn, are attached with bolts welded into the side member of the car. The springs of the rear beam of the VAZ 2110 are located in such a way that the first end rests against the recess of the shock absorber, and the second passes through a special gasket directly into the support area attached to the underside of the arch on the car body.

The gasket acts as an insulator and is made of rubber. The shock absorber mounted on the rear suspension is double-acting. It is attached with short bolts directly to a bracket located on the trailing arm in the rear suspension area. In the upper part, fastening is done using the rod method. The rod is fixed in the upper support directly on the suspension spring. The shock absorber is fixed through a protective rubber pad and a support washer.

A double row thrust bearing is located in the middle of the hub. Its structure is very similar to the bearing located in the hub of the front wheels, but it is much smaller in size.

Installation and dismantling of beams

The VAZ 2109 beam is very convenient to install and dismantle when using a lift. But if your garage is not equipped with such an addition, then carefully lift the “back” of your swallow with a jack. For greater reliability, place special shoes or at least bricks under the wheels and engage the gear.

Once the vehicle is raised, the wheels can be unscrewed. Then remove the shock absorbers from the rear suspension. The parking brake cables are disconnected and the “shirts” are removed. The brackets securing the cables to the vehicle body are bent, and the cables themselves are removed from the brackets.

When dismantling the brake hoses located on both sides of the beam, be sure to plug the resulting holes with something. Otherwise, brake fluid will leak.

Unscrew the nut on both sides that serves to secure the beam to the brackets. Carefully knock out the bolts. Now you can pull out the beam. Some useful tips:

1. Before you begin work on removing the beam, loosen the tension on the nuts on the hub in advance.
2. If you need to replace a rubber-metal hinge, it is better to contact a specialist for this. Without a special tool and skills for such work, something good is unlikely to come of it.
3. If you look at the documentation of the VAZ2109, which is given by the manufacturer, then you need to remove the rear beam from the car along with the brackets. For this manipulation you need to unscrew the 3 nuts holding the structure. But the operating time of the vehicle makes its own adjustments. After a certain period of time, the studs begin to become corroded, and in some cases they may crack. It is because of this that it is more expedient to dismantle the beam by simply disconnecting it from the bracket and leaving it suspended.
4. The rear beam of the VAZ 2109 is fastened in the reverse order of removal.
5. After returning the vehicle to a solid surface, all nuts must be tightened. The tightening procedure should be repeated after 80 km.
6. After installing the beam, it is important to bleed the brake system, adjust the parking brake, and check the wheel alignment.

As you can see, removing and installing the rear beam of a VAZ 2109 is not at all difficult; all car owners can do this work. The main thing is time and desire.

Removing rotten parts

We begin repairs by removing rotten, rusty and deformed parts. I will describe the process using the example of a car, a VAZ 2109, which I was tasked with repairing. First, I’ll give you my problem areas in the car. The front floor of the car is completely rotten with all the jacks and reinforcements. And the jack could only be used with a sub-engine beam. The rear floor was also rotted. Corrosion also affected the car doors. In general, the bottom was almost absent. The wings were not in the best condition.

The front hood was noticeably rusty, all the floor connectors and the floor of the gas tank and spare tire were missing. The same fate befell the reflectors of almost all headlights. The front spar burst in the gearbox area. And above the muffler, in the floor of the trunk, there was a huge hole. The corners of the door were “eaten” by corrosion.

I describe in detail the condition of my car so that car enthusiasts can identify similar faults in theirs and draw the right conclusions. Once the necessary tools for car body repair are at hand, we begin installation.

How to change the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ-2109

Problems with rear suspension joints occur in all cars. The VAZ-2109 was no exception. Replacement of the silent blocks of the rear beam of the VAZ-2109 is carried out approximately after a mileage of about 100 thousand km. This figure may differ in one direction or another, because the wear of rubber-metal joints depends on the conditions in which the vehicle is operated. The quality of the parts used in the manufacture and maintenance of the machine is also important. A signal that the wear of parts is critical is knocking and creaking in the area of ​​the rear wheels.

Features of elements

The main function of silents is to eliminate vibrations and deformations that occur during vehicle operation.

When choosing new silent blocks for the rear beam of a VAZ 2109, pay attention to the markings. It should be 2109-2914054. For VAZ 2114-15 models, the markings are different, but the elements themselves are very similar.

In principle, it is possible to install a silent block from a dozen on a VAZ 2109, but you will have to work hard with pressing in the rubber bushing due to the difference in size. The reverse procedure is not possible.

Rear beam

Beginning of work

If everything is ready for work, you can start replacing.

Important! To avoid injury from the vehicle falling, place the body on reliable metal stands.

The order of work will be as follows:

• Raise the rear of the car with a car jack, place the body on a stand, remove the wheel;
• After this, you should treat all the fastening bolts to be removed with WD 40 liquid, allow some time for the liquid to interact with the metal;
• Next, use 19mm wrenches to unscrew the nut from the bolt connecting the rear beam to the mounting bracket on the body;
• The regulator in the brake system will interfere with the removal of the beam; it should be disconnected;
• Now nothing interferes with the dismantling of the beam. The fastening bolt is removed, the beam is lowered down and a wooden block is installed between it and the body. Its size is selected in such a way that it becomes possible to replace the silent blocks of the VAZ-2109 rear suspension.

After this, they begin the most labor-intensive process, pressing the rubber-metal hinge out of the seat. They do this in different ways. You can try to knock it out with a hammer or remove it using a device. When this does not help remove the hinge, you can try making a hole in the rubber of the part. This will release the tension and allow you to remove it from the socket.

The problem of domestic cars

Car body repair begins with the selection of tools. I’ll say right away that the list will be quite large, because the work is labor-intensive and requires a large number of devices, including electronic and gas models. We will need at least three types of hammers of different sizes, a flap wheel and a sanding wheel (it removes paint and light rust well).

VAZ 2109

A grinder will also come in handy, a 10 cubic meter carbon dioxide cylinder, a welding machine with a maximum current of 150 amperes, several chisels, and a set of metal drills. You can’t do without a jack here either; it’s better to have two of them.

Stock up on cutting wheels of approximately 1-2 millimeters and one cleaning wheel. Any type of jigsaw will do. Brush with rust converter, fiber disc (can be replaced with a simple budget brush). Standard driver's set, 2mm cord and plumb line. It seems that I have listed everything that is needed. It's time to get to work.

What to do next

Before installing a new part, thoroughly clean the seat with a wire brush and rags. The cleaned area is treated with a solution of soapy water to facilitate installation of the new part. It is almost impossible to do this without a special device. If you don't have one, don't worry, you can easily make it yourself. A bolt with a nut or a stud 12 mm thick is suitable for this. You will also need two thick steel washers. Their diameter should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the part being replaced.

Replacing silent blocks 2109, or rather, installing them is done like this. The bolt and washer are installed in the eye of the beam. On the other side, they also put on a washer and screw on the nut. Now you can tighten the nut with a wrench while simultaneously guiding the hinge. This can be done by tapping the joint with a hammer. If the edge of the hinge rests on the washer, select a spacer between the fixture washer and the beam. You can use a large wrench.

After the rubber-metal hinge is in place, the device is removed and the beam can be put in its place. To do this, lift the car body and pull out the previously installed wooden block. Using a jack, carefully lift the beam and align the hole of the hinge and bracket, while correcting their alignment with a drift or other suitable object. Place the bolt in place, tighten the nut, and put the wheel in place.

The VAZ-2109 silent block is replaced in a similar way on the other side of the car. The final tightening of the nuts is carried out after the wheels have been installed and the car has driven for a short distance. At this point, the replacement of the VAZ-2109 silent blocks can be considered complete. If you still have any questions, watch the video:

Replacing rear beam silent blocks on a VAZ 2109

Silent blocks produced by AvtoVAZ can safely be called one of the highest quality parts. It is not surprising that other foreign manufacturers also use them for their cars.

Element appearance

The durability of almost any part, including the silent block, directly depends on the driving style of the motorist. The service life of the element is more than 30 thousand kilometers.

Symptoms of a problem

There are several main signs of failure of the rear beam silent blocks, including:

• Unstable behavior of the car on the roads;
• Tires wear unevenly, which is not difficult to notice from the tread pattern;
• When driving on a bad road (that is, 95% of all our roads), unpleasant squeaks and impacts on the car body are observed.

These signs are indirect, since they may be associated with other failures of the vehicle’s chassis. For example, dull knocks are also a sign of a faulty rear pillar. Therefore, in order to make sure that there is a particular problem, you will need to fully diagnose the chassis.

Malfunctions

Often, replacing the rear beam bushings is due to the fact that defects arise in the design of the element. They are like this:

• The elasticity of the rubber element deteriorates;
• The rubber breaks;
• The central bushing is displaced;
• Rotations occur in the seat.

If problems are detected with the silent block of the rear beam, you will need to drive the car into the garage in the near future and replace the damaged components. Unlike foreign cars, changing the silent seal on a VAZ 2109 is quite simple and without outside help. Plus it costs almost pennies.

Before you start replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, you need to decide what exactly you will replace the old, worn bushings with.

We figured out the markings and realized that for the VAZ 2109 you need to take only those that are suitable in size and diameter for the rear beam of the nine.

Today, for the VAZ 2109 they offer two types of silents, differing in the material of manufacture.

The choice should be made based on the available budget. Rubber elements cost several hundred rubles less. As for manufacturers, we recommend paying attention to the companies SEVI, BelMag, Boge and SS20.

To replace you will need:

• New rear silent blocks;
• A small wooden beam;
• A device for pressing in a silent block (you can do the job without it);
• Open-end wrenches;
• Socket wrenches;
• Spanners;
• Hammer.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

1. Place the car on a level surface in the garage above a pit or overpass. Be sure to place wheel chocks and shoes under the wheels. All for your safety.
2. It is better to remove the rear wheel to make it easier to work.
3. But it is not at all necessary to remove the rear beam. Just complicate your work with unnecessary dismantling processes.
4. On the left side of the driver is the pressure regulator rod for the rear brakes. It will disturb you while you work, so we advise you to remove it. This is done by removing the locking bracket of the rod and the handbrake cable. You will remove the latter from the right side from the mount.
5. Unscrew the nut from the bolt with a 12mm wrench that holds the rear beam to the bracket. This may cause problems. Place a socket wrench on the driver to increase leverage on the fastener. Remove the bolt, lift the car with a jack and move the beam down. It will come out of the eyelet this way. Do not overdo it to avoid damaging the nearby brake hose. If you press too hard on the pry bar while moving the eye, you risk breaking the hose.
6. Take a pre-prepared wooden block and insert it between the body and the beam. This must be done so that the beam is below the eye.
7. Using a hammer and a drift (regular metal tubing will do), knock out the old worn bushings. By the way, if you come across such a concept as “fungi”, don’t worry. This is what car enthusiasts often call these bushings because of their external similarity.
8. Clean the seat from accumulated dirt and rust. Be sure to lubricate the areas with soapy water. Without it, it will be difficult to press in new silent blocks. Or use a simple dish detergent. Under no circumstances should you lubricate the seats with grease or oil, as these substances will soon begin to corrode the element.

1. Now it presses in new elements. Ideally, you should have a special pressing tool. If you don't have one, use a regular hammer.
2. Take out a wooden block.
3. Armed with a second jack, lift the beam and insert the mounting bolt into place and tighten it with a nut.
4. Reinstall the rear wheel and lower the car to the ground.

Only upon completion of all these stages can the bolts of the new silent blocks be tightened until they stop.

Such an operation should not cause any special problems, so it is not at all necessary to go to a service station and spend extra money.

Choice

Before you start replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, you need to decide what exactly you will replace the old, worn bushings with.

We figured out the markings and realized that for the VAZ 2109 you need to take only those that are suitable in size and diameter for the rear beam of the nine.

Today, for the VAZ 2109 they offer two types of silents, differing in the material of manufacture.

The choice should be made based on the available budget. Rubber elements cost several hundred rubles less. As for manufacturers, we recommend paying attention to the companies SEVI, BelMag, Boge and SS20.

Size difference