Generator VAZ 2112: characteristics, repair and replacement


Generator set design

The VAZ-2112 generator consists of covers - front and rear. They are made of aluminum alloy and have special sockets where bearings are installed. On the back cover there is a terminal that is used to connect the battery. It also has a connector. Through it, voltage is supplied to the excitation winding. There is a capacitor on the back cover - it serves to suppress electromagnetic interference. There are places on the device for installing and securing brushes.

The core cylinder in this generator is made of transformer iron. Inside it there are special grooves in which the winding is neatly laid. Also on the cylinder there are leads for connection to the rectifier unit. The covers are screwed to the stator using bolts. The shaft, which acts as a rotor, has an excitation winding. It is connected to copper rings. A special groove is made at the front end of the shaft, which serves to install the drive pulley. The brushes are made in one piece, which is combined with the generator relay. It is housed in a durable metal case and securely attached to the brush holder. The back cover inside holds the diode unit - it includes 6 main elements and three additional ones. They are mounted on aluminum semicircular plates, due to which the diodes are cooled more efficiently. In the car's operating manual there is a diagram with which you can figure out how the VAZ-2112 generator works.

It is also used for repair work.

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The service life of a generator varies greatly and depends on the quality of its workmanship. For example, a standard generator can last 140 thousand km, which is almost 10 years of operation.

Which generator is better to choose? First, decide on the manufacturer. It is much easier to find spare parts for Russian generators, while for unpopular generators it is almost impossible to find a replacement for a broken part. Decide on the current strength. From the factory, the tens generator has a current strength of 80A, this is quite enough even if there are additional current consumers. If the generator is missing, then first try to inspect it and clean the contacts. Powerful 120A generators are installed, as a rule, when the car has “strong” acoustics; they do not harm the battery. Anyone who wants to install a 3-level voltage regulator (VR) in the future is recommended to first determine on the manufacturer’s website which generators it is structurally compatible with. They say that generators with the numbers -03- at the end of the model number have a new model LV, which is better than the old one. Also, pay attention to the presence of a guarantee, then you can easily exchange the generator for a new one in case of a defect. By the way, the defect rate of generators is almost 25-50%!

Principle of operation

The rotor, whose main task is to create a magnetic field, is a shaft on which the excitation winding is located. Each half of it is placed in special pole parts. The slip rings supply current to the winding. The rotor rotates due to a belt drive from the drive. The stator consists of a core and a winding. Here, alternating current is generated, which is sent through the rings further along the electrical network. However, it must first be removed from the frame. In order to supply current to the rings, a brush assembly is used. Then comes the rectifier unit, which converts the alternating sinusoidal voltage generated by the generator. In different cases, different circuits for connecting the excitation windings are used. For example, another separate pair is applied. Current simply cannot flow through the battery if the engine is not running. When connecting the winding in a star configuration, you can increase the generator power by 15%. The generator relay maintains the voltage of the device within the specified limits. It changes the frequency and duration of electrical current pulses. A relay is a set of several sensors and actuators. Their task is to determine how long the field winding should be in the network. If the relay is faulty, then an unstabilized voltage will be supplied to the battery.

Specifications

The VAZ-2112 generator has the following technical parameters.


Thus, the voltage that is formed on the excitation winding can vary from 13.2 V to 14.7 V. The generator itself is capable of generating a current of up to 80 A. The tension of the drive belt is such that with a pressure weighing 10 kg the deflection will be no less than 8 mm.

Disassembling the generator

To avoid mistakes during subsequent assembly, you need to use a marker to put two marks on the metal covers of the generator.

  1. Disassembly begins by removing the rear plastic casing. To do this, you will have to release three latches.
  2. Using a Phillips screwdriver, open the two screws that secure the voltage regulator together with the brushes.
  3. To remove the capacitor wire, you need to open the M 10 nut. Now all that remains is to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver and remove the capacitor.
  4. To remove the generator pulley, you will need a vice, a 21 socket wrench and an 8 hexagon. The generator body is clamped in a vice, and the head is put on the nut. A hexagon is inserted through the hole in the head. By opening the nut, you can remove the pulley and washer.
  5. You can disconnect the two parts of the generator after unscrewing the 4 fastening screws.
  6. At the back of the case, the screws securing the diode bridge and the stator wire are unscrewed.
  7. Now you can remove the diode bridge and the generator winding.
  8. The rotor is easily squeezed out of the cover with your fingers along with the bearing.
  9. Removing the plastic bearing bushing is not difficult. But to dismantle the bearing you will need a puller.
  10. The bearing is removed from the front cover using a suitable mandrel and hammer.

When disassembly is completed, all that remains is to identify the defective parts.

Maintaining a generator on a VAZ-2112 car

It is important to service this element on time - it has a large margin of reliability, but sometimes if the service is untimely, it is necessary to repair the car generator. The first step is to clean the outside surfaces of the device.


In addition, during service activities, they check whether the generator is securely fastened. The voltage regulator also needs checking. Experts recommend checking the drive belt. If it is loose, the system will not function correctly. It is recommended to check the VAZ-2112 alternator belt every 10 thousand km of the car - there should be no defects on its surface. Next, check the condition of the bearings. During this operation, it is necessary to remove the belt and rotate the rotor of the device by hand. If during rotation you feel play or jamming during movement, extraneous noise or any other sounds, the bearings are out of order and need to be replaced. For a VAZ-2112 generator, the price of which is about 4 thousand rubles, such parts can be found in any store or market.

Interchangeability of autogenerators

Interchangeability of generators for Lada cars is achieved if the following requirements are met:

Most Russian-made automobile generators have a 2-leg mount. These fasteners are found on both covers. For equipment of foreign brands, installation is carried out using 1 paw, the fasteners are located on the front cover.

In order to correctly install and securely fasten a foreign generator in a car from AvtoVAZ, it is necessary to replace the bracket.

Possible faults

Like all other systems in a car, the alternator can also fail. Sometimes repairs can be made and the device will work again. But in case of some malfunctions, only replacing the VAZ-2112 generator will help.


Diagnostics of this unit is performed when increased noise occurs during operation. Often noise occurs due to severe wear of bearings. But often only the bearing located in the front cover fails. It is subject to increased radial loads, so it does not last long. If the drive belt is too tight, this will also affect the rate of bearing wear.

Electrical faults: diagnostic methods

Electrical problems in the operation of a generator can be identified based on several factors. So, among the popular symptoms are lack of charging, reduced charging voltage, or vice versa – increased. Without a multimeter, these breakdowns are determined by their main symptoms. So, the battery charge lamp on the instrument panel will light up or blink. Also, when the engine is running, the headlights shine very dimly, and the windshield wipers operate at a slow speed. Increased voltage will be indicated by boiling electrolyte in the battery and very bright headlights.


Superficial diagnostics can be performed without dismantling work. For testing you will need a multimeter. You need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running. If the device shows 12 V, the generator is not charging the battery. If the multimeter outputs below 14 V with all electrical equipment turned off, then the charge level is insufficient. Experts do not recommend testing the generator by removing the positive contact of the battery. This may damage the relay.

Functions performed

So, what is a generator for? First of all, in order to provide all VAZ 2110 equipment that runs on electricity with energy. Perhaps someone thinks that this is the battery's task. Not really, because the battery is needed to maintain functionality when the engine is not running (it starts the engine, supports the alarm, music system while parked, etc.).

But when the engine has already started, with the help of the battery, the generator comes into play. During the trip, it is he who supports the operation of all electronics, air conditioning, audio (or even video systems), and everything else that you have added to your VAZ 2110.

Another equally important function of the generator is charging the battery. This also happens when the engine is running. And if it weren’t for this device, the battery would not be able to cope with its tasks, and it would have to be charged all the time.

How to remove a generator on a VAZ-2112

For a more serious check, the device must be removed. The generator is held on a bracket on the engine block. To dismantle the installation, you will need keys 10 and 13, an open-end wrench 17, as well as a pry bar and socket 15.


The first step is to remove the terminals from the battery. Then loosen and remove the belt, and then dismantle the belt tensioner mechanism. Next, the wires are disconnected and the connectors are disconnected. The device is held in place by a long bolt and nut. It's not that easy to remove. Therefore, first unscrew the brackets on the motor block with a head. They are located at the back of the unit. Then the generator is deployed, which will help to easily unscrew the axle mount. It is pulled out together with the bushing, and then the axle is knocked out of the bracket.

Replacing the generator with power steering, eliminating noise

There was a very strange knocking sound from the engine, when you accelerate and let off the gas there is a knocking sound from the area of ​​the generator and the steering wheel... I struggled with this for a long time, but not very successfully, in order: - the fault was on the belt roller, well, it was a little sensitive and not everything was going well with it okay, I was looking for a roller without play for a long time, but I found it and installed it, it didn’t help with the main knock; -removing the engine and power steering belt and starting the car, the knocking noise disappeared completely, well, for a long time I sinned on the power steering pump, then I replaced it, and it seemed to be better, but after some time this knocking noise came again (((... - I thought, what if it’s a generator It’s noisy, and the voltage was low when you turn everything on to 12V. I went to remove it and look, and then it started... Removing the gene on a car with power steering is another quest... I decided to remove it through the headlight, since it’s not possible to pull the receiver out through the top, but through the bottom, the pump Power steering, removing the pump means draining the oil, and then also pumping it... so it’s easier through the headlight, especially since I also changed the headlights)))

It fits through the headlight just fine, removing the headlight is not difficult))

And so, having removed the generator, I twirled it in my hands and realized that its bearings were running out...

burnt contact, apparently he was punished well at one time)

The contact from the winding is a little burnt, a stub from it remains, the bearings are damaged, the voltage sags, so I bought a new one then)))

dynamo

Dynamo 105A when the old one had 80 Next is the most interesting thing, the secret of the ominous noise is revealed...

bottom of generator mount

and this is the top part of the generator mount

that’s the reason for the noise, a mount broken in two was knocking on another engine mount.

I’ll say right away that finding a new bracket for an engine with power steering was not easy; I never found one in Bryansk! It is attached to the same bolts as the engine mount, but in order to screw it on I had to remove the pump; I removed it directly without twisting the tubes from it, but simply lowering it to the bottom)

The bottom bolt can only be tightened by removing the power steering pump

new generator next to the old one

The new one looks impressive, it has one more winding contact, the regulator is more massive, the voltage on board is 14.2 V and does not consistently respond to the heater and low beams)))) if you turn on everything you can, these are high beams, heated mirrors, emergency lights , heater, reverse, brake light...

The result is I'm happy, there is no noise, the voltage is normal, everything is fine))

  • Generator 3800
  • Bracket 560

Brush unit malfunctions

To check the brush assembly, you will need a power source, as well as any 12 V lamp. The power source is connected to the voltage regulator, the lamp is connected to the brush - it should light up. When the input voltage rises to 15 volts, the light goes out. If the lamp burns at a higher voltage, then repair of the VAZ-2112 car generator is necessary. The relay needs to be replaced. As for the brushes themselves, their malfunctions are indicated by a lack of battery charge, too low voltage in the car network, or unstable charging voltages.


The length of the brush should be more than 5 mm. If it is smaller, they need to be replaced. You can also move them slightly in the grooves to check the brushes. Working brushes move freely. If they hang, it is recommended to lubricate them. It is also worth making sure that the slip rings are in good condition - they are checked for wear. If there are marks, the rings are sanded with fine sandpaper. After replacing the brushes, the generator will immediately begin to operate normally. It is important to monitor how the device works and regularly service the VAZ-2112 generator - the price of the unit is low, but with high-quality service, only the brushes will need to be changed.

What to choose?

In terms of popularity and reliability, the first places are occupied by manufacturers Bosch (Bosch), Denso (Denso) and Delphi (Delphi). But you should know that Katek (KZATE) (made by us) are also quite reliable and do a good job of their duties on the VAZ 2110, creating the required voltage. Maybe somewhere they lose against Bosch, but compared to the Chinese they are at their best.

VAZ generators of the tenth family:

So it’s difficult to say for sure which generator is right for you; the best one is the one that provides the necessary power to operate electrical appliances and charge the battery. If we take the advantages that Katek clearly has, then this is sufficient reliability, and also - what is important - the availability of inexpensive spare parts for sale: you can always buy at least a fuse, a pulley, an armature, a voltage regulator, an excitation wire, etc.

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