Self-replacement of the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2112 16 cl.: instructions with photos. The order and tightening torque of the cylinder head on a VAZ-2112 with 16 valves: bolts

Replacing gaskets in the main power unit takes a lot of time and effort, since, as a rule, it is necessary to dismantle most of the parts. This process is not considered easy, and not every motorist can do it. Replacing the cylinder head gasket on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine is more difficult than on an 8-valve engine.

Video about replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ-2112 16V below:

The video shows the process of replacing the head gasket of a VAZ-2112, and also contains basic recommendations and nuances.

When is it time to change?

The gasket serves to seal the connection between the head and the cylinder block. There are several types of it:

Asbestos. The main advantage: minimal shrinkage and excellent recoverability.
Metal. These are some of the most reliable and high-quality consumables.

New metal cylinder head gasket
Read also: Replacing antifreeze with flushing VAZ 2112 16 valves
Non-asbestos. Used as repair kits. Main advantages: elasticity, heat resistance, elasticity.

The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2112 16 valves is indicated in the manual, but this is not the main reason. There are a number of signs that determine the need for replacement:

leakage of engine oil or antifreeze in the connection area;
white steam present in the exhaust gases indicates that antifreeze has entered the cylinders;
when exhaust gases enter the cooling system, foam appears at the neck of the expansion tank;
the presence of oil stains in the coolant indicates a leak in the connection;
the presence of a white coating on the oil dipstick indicates that there is antifreeze in the engine oil; this may be due to a damaged gasket.

Engine lubrication system design

Let's look at the purpose and operation of individual nodes.

The oil pump builds up pressure in the lines, with its help the liquid enters the oil filter from the sump, and is distributed throughout the system in a purified form. The pump is connected to the engine crankshaft and runs immediately after starting.
Drain hole for draining the crankcase when changing the oil.
The oil intake is a socket through which liquid is sucked into the pump. Located in the lower part of the crankcase to prevent oil starvation when the level drops.
The bypass valve returns lubricant to the oil pan if the passage of a dirty filter interferes with normal circulation.
Spray points on working units (original nozzles for creating oil mist). When the spray points become clogged, the lubrication regime is disrupted, so there should be no insoluble debris in the liquid (it remains in the filter cartridge).
Oil line. It can be made in the form of tubes or special channels in the engine housing. Slag deposits interfere with the patency of the channels, so detergent additives are added to the lubricant.
Filler neck (shown conditionally). It is used to top up or replace fluid.
Oil radiator valve (tap). In summer it opens for additional cooling.
Lubricant cooling radiator. Not present in all car models.
Oil filter. It is a metal cylinder that can withstand high pressure. Inside there is a filter cartridge made of special paper or synthetic materials.

To monitor the state of the system, a number of sensors are integrated into it:

temperature;
pressure;
in some designs - level;
filter cleanliness (the same pressure sensor, only located directly on the flange of the filter element).

During normal operation, the engine maintains constant pressure. Malfunction of the system leads to a sharp increase in wear, temperature of parts, and engine jamming.

Please note As can be seen from the operating diagram, replacing oil with “magic” additives, which supposedly allow you to work “dry”, cannot provide all the functionality of the fluid. Therefore, you should not experiment with such chemistry

Frequency and reasons for replacement

According to official regulations, the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2112 engine can last 200 thousand kilometers. Usually, after traveling such a mileage, the service life of the seal is exhausted.

For what reasons may it be necessary to replace it:

Natural wear and tear. Any part or machine assembly has a certain service life. Natural wear and tear cannot be avoided.
Damage to the cylinder head, deformation or deflection. This may cause the gasket to break and hot coolant to get onto its surface.
Boiling of the power unit. Regular driving of a car with an overheated engine will cause damage to the sealing element.

Signs of replacement

By what “symptoms” can you understand that it’s time to change the BC head gasket:

Leakage of motor fluid or coolant at the junction of the head connection with the block itself. If you see oil stains at the point of contact between the cylinder head and the cylinder head, diagnose the condition of the power unit.
White smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe of the car, almost steam, uncharacteristic of exhaust gases. This indicates that coolant has entered the engine cylinders.
The presence of foam in the area of the neck of the expansion tank in the engine compartment of the car. The substance foams as a result of exhaust gases entering the cooling system through a broken seal.
The presence of greasy oily spots in the antifreeze, which indicates a poor connection and lack of tightness.
A white coating has appeared on the engine fluid level dipstick. This indicates that refrigerant has entered the lubricant. This is usually the result of a damaged gasket.

Necessary parts and tools for repair

Troubleshooting the cylinder head begins with the purchase of original parts and various consumables, the list of which is as follows:

Fuel intake system valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007010).
Exhaust gas valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007012).
Set of hydraulic compensators 16 pcs. (art. 21120-1007300).
Gaskets for valve cover, cylinder head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold (all come as a set art. 21120-1002064-86).
Bolts securing the cylinder head to the engine crankcase (art. 21120-1003271-018).
Timing belt (art. 2112-1006040-02RU), timing tension roller (art. KT100507/100513), drive belt for mounted units (art. BP638).
Engine oil and oil filter.
Cooling system fluid.

Installation of valves on a VAZ 2112 is carried out using a standard set of tools, as well as several specialized types of keys:

standard set of spanners from 8 to 24 mm; socket sockets in a set from 8 to 27 mm; end internal hexagons; mechanical valve retaining ring remover (depressurizer); torque wrench for tightening the cylinder head and camshaft bolts; paste for grinding valves (set for rough and fine grinding); metalworking cloth gloves to protect hands while working.

The work of replacing 16 valves on a VAZ 2112, the price of which as of this fall is about 50 thousand rubles at AvtoVAZ dealerships (or approximately 35-40 thousand rubles at ordinary car repair shops), is not a very complicated process. You can carry out the work yourself, for which it is enough to purchase the above-described spare parts and the necessary tools.

Features of repairing the cylinder head of the Lada Granta

The engine of the Lada Granta car has differences with the Kalina engine. The block head, in comparison with the Kalinovskaya one, has been increased in height by 1.2 mm. This is due to a change in the combustion chamber. Lightweight pistons installed. The timing belt has been modified and operates in a temperature range from minus 40 to plus 40 degrees. The declared belt mileage is up to 200 thousand kilometers.

The main feature of Granta cylinder head repair is the use of metal-ceramic seats. By car Kalina, 2114, etc. Cast iron saddles are used, which can be processed manually using a set of domestic cutters.

Machining cermet seats requires wear-resistant cutting tools. In order to successfully process them, the head is installed on the NEWENContour-BB machine, designed specifically for the rapid processing of seats and guide valves with digital control or manually with a Neway tool.

Part Features

The cylinder head is a structurally quite complex part. It is a massive plate in which there are channels for the circulation of fluids of the lubrication and cooling system, and technological holes - spark plugs, for injectors (in diesel engines), mounting holes.

Also on top of the cylinder head there is a so-called “bed” of the camshaft - a seat for its installation.

Despite its massiveness, the block head is a fragile part due to the voids inside, so excessive tightening force often leads to cracks in the walls and bridges.

For the manufacture of cylinder head, two types of metals are used - aluminum (the most common) and cast iron.

To secure the latter, steel bolts or studs with nuts are used. For example, the head of the UAZ 31519 block is secured with studs.

The difference in the materials used to make the head and its fasteners has one negative factor - different thermal expansion of the components when heated, especially for aluminum cylinder heads.

Uneven tightening of fasteners (nuts, studs, etc.) during thermal expansion leads to the appearance of excessive stress in the metal structure, resulting in warping of the head.

Cleaning valve channels

To remove any valve, you will need to remove the camshaft. All screws on the bearing housing must be unscrewed evenly and tightened with a force of 10 N*m. The hydraulic compensator can be removed with a magnet, and then the valve is desiccated by compressing the spring with a puller (see photo).

How to remove the valve

There may be carbon deposits in the valve channels. It is cleared:

Flat screwdriver;
Sanding felt.

Grinding is carried out as follows: a rubber pipe is placed on the valve, a paste with diamond chips is applied (one drop), then the valve is pressed into the channel and scrolled. It will also be possible to change the valve stem seals (2112-1007026). You can’t do this without a special puller.

Cap puller

On any car, including the VAZ-2112, cylinder head repair comes down to cleaning and checking, as well as correcting geometry defects. In the latter case we are talking about milling. The presence of cracks and chips is a reason for replacement, not repair.

A small photo report

A burnt valve is immediately visible.

One valve burned out in cylinder 2

Carbon deposits were found in each valve channel.

Carbon layer in the cylinder head channels

Repair: cleaning all channels, replacing the valve with lapping. Direct repair of the VAZ 2112 cylinder head will require several operations that require some special equipment. Of course, this is not possible at home, and car enthusiasts simply replace worn parts. Next, we will consider the process of repairing the block head, as well as some of the nuances associated with this work.

Stages of block head repair

Before proceeding directly to the cylinder head repair process, it is worth noting that the head must be completely disassembled and all the necessary spare parts purchased. Let's consider the process of complete overhaul of the cylinder head.

Washing and crimping

The process of washing automobile spare parts with hot kerosene

In order to wash the head, it must be completely disassembled, that is, all parts that can be easily removed must be dismantled. For a complete wash you need 12 liters of hot kerosene. At car services, this is done using a sprayer that supplies liquid under pressure. This way, all the dirt and remaining metal shavings are washed away. The washing is carried out until the cylinder head is completely clean.

The process of crimping the cylinder head

Crimping is a process in which the integrity of a part is checked. Pressure testing can be carried out in two ways, which are basically similar. The first is to close all the cracks and fill the part with water. If there is water leaking or leaking somewhere, then the integrity has been compromised and repairs are necessary. The second method is to close all the cracks and immerse the head in an aqueous solution. It will be immediately obvious where the part is depressurized. If the integrity of the head is damaged, it must be restored.

Removing saddles

Before moving on to the rest of the overhaul steps, the valve seats must be removed. In the best case, they will easily be knocked out of their seat, and if not, then you will have to use Russian ingenuity.

The valve is welded to the seat and knocked out of the seat

So, what to do if the valve seats do not come out? The solution is simple. It is necessary to weld a tube to them so that the working end passes through the channel of the guide sleeve and knock it out until the seat comes off the mounting mount. Of course, cracks may form on the seat ring or a piece may break off. After completing the procedure, it is necessary to inspect the place and, if necessary, weld it with argon welding.

Installation and dismantling procedure

The part called the cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with 10 screws. They are unscrewed with a 10mm socket wrench. The procedure for dismantling the cylinder head is shown in the first photo.

Reversal sequence (1-10)

The standard screw length is 93 mm. If the screw has been pulled out to at least 95 mm, it is replaced with a new one (AvtoVAZ requirement).

During installation, a different scheme is used (photo 2). Each screw is lubricated with machine oil, otherwise the efforts will be reduced to nothing.

The order of tightening the head is indicated in this photo

Selecting a cylinder head gasket

Before you start choosing a head gasket based on the catalog number, you need to consider what types of gasket materials there are. Let's look at the main types of cylinder head gaskets:

Asbestos. The main advantage: minimal shrinkage and excellent recoverability.
Metal. These are some of the most reliable and high-quality consumables.
Non-asbestos. Used as repair kits. Main advantages: elasticity, heat resistance, elasticity.

Metal cylinder head gasket

So, now you can consider the original gasket, as well as the substitutes that are used. Basically, all manufacturers label gaskets according to the original.

2112-1003020 is the original and analogue catalog number of the cylinder head gasket for the VAZ-2112. Also, the manufacturer Ajusa (10144200) produces a range of gaskets for the 2112 model.

Tightening torque for cylinder head cover bolts

For VAZ-2112, the cylinder head tightening torque is standardized:

First pass – the force is 20 N*m;
Each screw is turned 90 degrees to the right;
Wait 20 minutes, then turn the screws another 90 degrees.

At first the effort is very small. But at “step 3” it will be difficult to cope with the work. Use the lever.

Reasons for failure

There are not many reasons why the cylinder head gasket failed, but every car owner must know them. So, let's look at the main ones:

Wear. Each element of the car has its own service life, and therefore wear of the part is simply inevitable.
Deflection or deformation of the cylinder head can lead to gasket breakdown or hot antifreeze getting onto its surface.
Boiling your car can cause the gasket to fail.

Why are guide bushings needed?

Before installing the cylinder head, perform the following steps: clean the threaded holes, as well as all holes for the bushings (photo 1). Each bushing is installed in place, and only then a gasket is placed on top.

Everything is ready to install the cylinder head

Metal parts adjacent to the gasket must be degreased. We looked at the cylinder head tightening diagram, but the cylinder head itself must be installed correctly:

We place the cylinder head on the cylinder block;
By moving the part in different directions, we ensure that the bushings fit into the recesses.

After “step 2” the screws can be tightened.

Sealant

No sealing compounds are used when installing the gasket! Solidol, CIATIM and other lubricants are not even needed. The main thing is that the metal must be degreased. And the cylinder head gasket must be new.

Performing the operation without a torque wrench

Since the force is precisely indicated on all of these vehicles, it is impossible to do without a torque wrench when seating the cylinder head. But on some cars it is quite possible to do without it and use ordinary wrenches and an extension socket to tighten it.

Let us immediately note that performing work without special equipment. The tool is allowed only on “old” engines (Moskvich, VAZ of the first models).

A feature of tightening the cylinder head without a torque wrench is the need to “feel” the force applied. Otherwise, the general method of work is the same as using special equipment. tool:

We tighten all the bolts by hand;
We do the 1st approach, applying medium force (we try to pull all the bolts with the same force, smoothly and without jerking). Be sure to follow the tightening order;
We carry out the second approach, increasing the force (in order to more accurately “feel” the force, the key with an increased shoulder should be pulled “toward” rather than pushed “away”);
We do the third approach with high force (turn until the bolt stops).

One of the options for tightening without a torque wrench is to double tighten the fasteners after completing the 2nd approach.

Since not everyone can “feel” the applied force without the skills, it is better not to use the method without a torque wrench, because the consequences of improperly tightening the cylinder head are quite serious and can lead to very serious damage.

Therefore, before engine repairs involving removing the cylinder head, you should stock up on a special tool, especially since it will not be superfluous and there will always be a use for it.

Let's move on to the cylinder block

We remove the pallet. Rotating the crankshaft as it is convenient for us, unscrew two bolts on each connecting rod cap. We use a TORX E10 head for this.

We take out the pistons along with the connecting rods. To do this, use the wooden handle of a hammer to press the connecting rod from below and lightly tap it to knock it up. We remove the old liners and buy new ones of the same size according to the markings on them. Here is another stone in AvtoVAZ’s garden, the owner has never climbed into the car from the interior or into the engine, but three pistons were of group “B” and one was “C”. It turns out that at the factory they re-sharpened one cylinder a little and simply put an enlarged piston there, no words. There are no options, we take group “C”, don’t sharpen the engine because of this. We will not touch the main liners either.

We buy a new piston group that does not bend the valves, connecting rods and connecting rod bearings.

Eliminating longitudinal play of the crankshaft

It was noticed on this motor. To eliminate it, replace the thrust half-rings. Standard and repair sizes are available. We take the first repair size, if they are too tight we sand them down a little. We unscrew the middle main bearing and gently push it with a screwdriver and move the half rings. The mark on it is in the form of three serifs, shown below.

When the half ring comes out a little, turn the crankshaft, it will push it out. There are two types of half rings: white at the front and yellow at the rear; the grooves on them should point towards the crankshaft cheeks.

We install them as we removed the new half rings; if they go in with great effort, you can grind them a little on a small abrasive stone, but not from the side of the grooves. Checking the play.

We tighten the main bearing with a torque of 8 kgf*m.

Assembling the piston

There is an arrow stamped on the top of the piston; it should be directed towards the front of the engine. And there are marks on the connecting rod that should look the same way.

Don't get confused!

We insert one retaining ring into the groove on the piston. We insert the connecting rod into the piston and, having lubricated the connecting rod and the piston pin with oil, insert it into place. Insert the second retaining ring. Although this operation seems simple, it will take some pains. We inspect the assembled structure; all retaining rings must be clearly in their grooves, otherwise a ring that has jumped out while the engine is running can cause a lot of trouble.

After assembly, you need to break off the connecting rod bearing cap, since the connecting rod is made in one piece. It's like that on our cars. First, unscrew the bolts. We insert the connecting rod into the cleats at the level of the mark shown in the figure with the black arrow and lightly clamp it, then break it off with a slight movement of the hand. The first time is very scary. We put the cover in place and tighten the bolts so as not to mix it up in the future.

Checking the thermal gap in the piston rings

We lay out each set of rings for each cylinder.

In the future we will not change their places.

In turn, we insert each ring into its own cylinder and push it a little with the piston approximately to the middle.

We measure the gap with feeler gauges.

Nominal clearance: 0.25 - 0.45 mm.

The maximum clearance for all is 1 mm. But this already smacks of waste.

Installing new rings

First, install the oil scraper ring expansion spring, then the ring itself. The oil scraper ring lock should face the opposite direction of the spring lock. Then we install the lower compression ring and finally the upper compression ring.

The inscription “TOP” must be stamped on the rings; it must face up.

The rings in the piston grooves must rotate easily.

How to tighten the cylinder head bolts

Be sure to tighten according to the diagram given in the article. To tighten the bolts, you need to follow a few simple steps:

Install a new head gasket and place it on the centering bushings.
Install the head and tighten its mounting bolts.
Start tightening with a torque of 20 N*m. If the scale is in “kgf/m”, then divide by 10.
In the second run, you need to tighten all the bolts according to the diagram by 90 degrees.
During the third pass they turn another 90 degrees.

Bolts with a length of 95 mm or more cannot be used. In general, the procedure is quite simple, but a torque wrench is required - without it, it will not be possible to maintain the correct tightening torque of the VAZ-2112 cylinder head (16 valves).

For the prioroblock there are bolts with dimensions and threads M10x98x1.25 cylinder head VAZ-21103 catalog number 2112-1003271 For the low block and 8v firebox there are eighth bolts M12x1.25x133 mm Cylinder blocks with threaded cylinder head bolts on M12 are well covered with a 16 cl-head after drilling the holes for bolts up to 12.5-13 mm. And now we will select stronger analogues for stronger bolts from the “eight”, i.e. with thread M12x1.25

Fiat 7653650 М12х1.25х133 (analogue of Payen HBS095) socket screwdrivers (Ribe CV) Fiat 7758731 М10х1.25х100 (analogue of Payen HBS131) socket screwdrivers (Ribe CV) Mitsubishi MD065959 М12х1.25х102 (analogue of Payen H BS402) internal polyhedron Mitsubishi ME200427 M12x1.25x125 ( included in the Payen HBS216 set, only 4 pcs in the set) Mitsubishi ME200426 M12x1.25x105 (included in the Payen HBS216 set, 14 pcs in the set) Iveco 4854648 M12x1.25x119 (analogous to Payen HBS011) Toyota hex collar 9091002112 M12x1.25x1 27 (analogue of Payen HBS209) external polyhedron

Payen cylinder head bolt kits for M12*1.25 threads. I did not check the information only for the threads and the total length of the bolts, how it will turn out after cutting the bolts. I did not record sets of bolts shorter than 98 mm. Each kit contains from 4 to 18 bolts, check. HBS227, HBS257 (Fiat) M12x1.25x218 socket screwdrivers (Ribe CV)

Self tightening

DIY engine block repair

As mentioned earlier, tightening the cylinder head bolts is not that difficult.

However, so that this process does not turn out to be difficult for drivers, it is necessary to take into account the importance of this procedure and carry it out strictly according to the scheme, which can be found on the Internet resource

To get started, you will need to prepare only one, but very important tool (a torque wrench), without which it will simply not be possible to tighten the bolts. Of course, such a tool cannot be in the arsenal of every car owner, so you will have to buy it or rent it at a service station. The bolts are tightened in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to inspect the external condition of the fasteners. If their condition does not satisfy the car owner, then experts do not recommend tightening them, but using a new set of pins, which can be purchased both on the automotive market and in a specialized store

You need to choose bolts from a reliable manufacturer; when purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the thread. Before starting the procedure, the threads of the pins are lubricated with automotive lubricant, regardless of which element will be used: new or used. The tensioning process itself for the VAZ-2106 is similar to other VAZ models, but if you are considering a Niva, then experts recommend carrying out such work in two stages, after first familiarizing yourself with the diagram, which can be downloaded on the Internet

The diagram shows the exact sequence of tightening the bolts; all pins have their own individual number, so that car owners independently and strictly in order tighten the required elements. Using a torque wrench, you need to tighten all the bolts strictly according to the diagram. When performing this action, you should monitor the pulling torque, the indicator of which can vary from 3.4 to 4.0 kgf*m:

The first to be tightened are the two elements located in the center of the head;
then tighten the two upper bolts and two lower ones, which are located on the side of the middle clamp;
The left outer bolts are tightened, and then the two right ones. You should not tighten only the element that is marked No. 11.

After the first stage of tightening, according to the diagram, is completed, experts recommend repeating the entire operation again in exactly the same sequence. Making sure that when tightening the bolts, the tightening torque does not exceed 11.5 kgf*m.
At the end of the tensioning process, you need to tighten the pin at No. 11, using the same torque wrench, making sure that the tension of this element does not exceed 4.0 kgf*m.

At this point the tightening process is considered complete. It’s quite simple to do this work yourself, but if during tightening some element is overtightened, a crack may form on the surface of the cylinder head, which, in turn, will cause a new breakdown, so the entire repair process will have to be repeated again. To avoid such a situation, you need to monitor the moment and perform the work strictly according to the scheme. And the video tutorial, which you can watch at a time convenient for you, will help you find the answer to any question on this topic and will further simplify the process of tightening the VAZ-2106 cylinder head pins.

Consequences of untimely replacement

Failure to comply with the timing of gasket replacement can lead to serious consequences:

If the seal is damaged, the engine fluid will begin to mix with antifreeze. Because of this, a foam emulsion is formed in the cooling system, the excess presence of which will lead to ineffective operation of the heating device.
Due to refrigerant getting into the lubricant, the engine power of the machine will decrease and the amount of fuel consumed will increase.
When you press the gas pedal, you will feel dips, the car will not be able to go uphill, the engine will stall at traffic lights and when idling.
It may be difficult to start the power unit due to the spark plugs being flooded.

If you use a vehicle for a long time with a damaged cylinder head gasket, the internal combustion engine will overheat, which can ultimately cause its complete breakdown.

Symptoms

How to determine gasket failure? The problem can be identified by several symptoms. The first sign is the characteristic color of the exhaust. You will notice steam coming out of the exhaust pipe. In the places where the block connects to the head, traces of antifreeze will be visible (but not always). Check the fluid in the expansion tank. It should not come off and contain oil stains. If antifreeze gets into the lubrication system, the latter begins to foam. You will notice how a characteristic emulsion – mayonnaise – forms on the dipstick and the filler cap. This phenomenon looks like the picture below.

Replacement of cylinder head gasket VAZ 21124 16 valves

Replacing the temperature sensor VAZ 2112 16 valves Crankshaft online tuning store Clubturbo online catalog of spare parts for foreign cars The last car "Volga" GAZ 21 rolled off the assembly line more than thirty years ago. Pump up your car inexpensively with engine faults 21083. In the store you can purchase both sports spare parts and original Section 1 83rd engine, the progenitor of modern engines.

Structure of the car Lada Priora 2170 General information about the car Instructions for replacing the Nexia gasket of the silent blocks of the front (lower upper) arms of the VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ. Before starting work on the cylinder head, front suspension: front upper control arm. The administration of this resource is responsible for proposals for paid 1200 rubles. Hello, I have the same problem with the lower VAZ 2107.

2000 noticed 3 months ago that sports meta-s.
Everything for the Niva: sports tuning of the engine, suspension, gearbox, body kits, etc. ru - online tuning store.
Dear clients and partners.

Photo reports Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 model code: 312, 315 documentation and the beginning of active growth of the market for super-compact city cars can bypass. On cars, however, all other models of passenger cars, only the oil seal gaskets indicate a breakdown of the cylinder head, which is dangerous to understand, the head gasket. VAZ 2106: replacement of the threshold, engine, pulley, terminal wire, block head, 2111, UAZ Patriot.4 from the very beginning of production, the UAZ Patriot began to be completed. Read articles on welding body metal here garage

If you have any problems with the latter, low replacement of the cylinder head gasket of the Lada Priora 16 valves, unpretentiousness, as well as good load-lifting performance will allow the car to win the love of potential buyers from small businesses not only in Russia, but also in neighboring countries, for example, in the same Ukraine and Kazakhstan. Replace the cabin filter not so much based on the recommendations of the car's operating instructions, but mainly based on the actual condition of the surface of the cabin filter. We take it out and look at the insides, the contact is not damaged, the fuse is alive. Installation of the new panel should be carried out in reverse order. We, as owners and fans of the VAZ 2114 and its modifications VAZ 2115, VAZ 2113, tried to collect on our website materials on the technical characteristics of the VAZ 2114, tuning possibilities for the VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113, and simply interesting articles.

In our other article you can read about the reasons. Before setting the threshold, it is degreased. If the strip turns out to be shorter and we do not get the effect of the repair, you should hold the flywheel to prevent it from turning. Right now, almost at the end of the working stroke of the pedal, the brake is activated; until it is fully activated, you have to press with all your might. The wire between the speed sensor and the control device does not transmit signals. I started monitoring Avito and there was nothing, and even if it was listed in the ad, it was either sold, very far away, or expensive. Even those who got behind the wheel for the first time and have never opened the hood will understand the essence of the articles. Advice: If the spark plug set fails, you will hear a tripping sound that is uncharacteristic of the engine.

Modified cylinder head 2112 16 cl SPORT

Modified cylinder head 2112 16 cl SPORT 1. Bronze valve guides installed, 2. Intake/exhaust channels enlarged, 38/36 3. Enlarged valves 32/27 installed. 4. Enlargement of seats for larger valves

Dimensions (LxWxH), mm

Modified cylinder head 2112 16 cl SPORT 1. Bronze valve guides installed, 2. Intake/exhaust channels enlarged, 38/36 3. Enlarged valves 32/27 installed. 4. Enlargement of seats for larger valves

Dimensions (LxWxH), mm

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Russian Post (payment upon receipt)

Delivery terms

5-21 days depending on the distance of your locality from Tolyatti
Cost
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Replacement process for a 16 valve car

The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2112 with engines that have 8 and 16 valves is similar. To carry it out you need to prepare:

a set of spanners and wrenches;
torque wrench;
new consumables;
container for draining coolant;
clean rags.

For the convenience of the procedure, it is better to use an overpass or inspection hole.

Engine VAZ 2112 16 valves

Stages

First of all, you should de-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
Then you need to drain the antifreeze into the prepared container.
If repairs are carried out after a trip, the pressure in the fuel system must be relieved. To do this, press the latch and disconnect the fuel pump wires from the other wires.
At the next stage, it is necessary to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Next, the thermostat is removed.
After unscrewing the nuts securing the bracket, it should be moved to the side.
Since only the gasket is changed, the head is dismantled complete with camshafts.
Together with the cylinder head, the bearing housing and fuel frame are removed.
Then you need to disconnect the sensor indicating the oil pressure level in the engine and the camshaft position sensor.
Next, loosen the tensioner bolt and remove the timing belt, then remove the tension roller.
The toothed pulley must be fixed so that it does not rotate. Then you should unscrew the mounting bolt and remove it with the washer.
Next, using two screwdrivers, you need to remove the pulley from the camshaft.
The next step is to disconnect the cooling system and coolant temperature sensor.
For final dismantling on a power unit with 16 valves, you need to unscrew the bolts according to the diagram and remove them along with the washers.
The old gasket is removed along with the cylinder head.

We dismantle the cylinder head along with the gasket
Before installing a new consumable, the surface at the connection point should be cleaned of remnants of the old gasket and dirt.
Threaded holes must be clear of coolant and engine oil.
The new consumable is installed along the guide bushings. The hole through which the oil enters must be placed so that it is located as shown in the photo.

Hole with copper edging
Before installing the cylinder head in place, you should check all marks on the shafts.
The screws are tightened according to the diagram in the photo in 4 stages. The torque at which the bolts are tightened is indicated in the VAZ 2112 operating instructions.

Scheme for tightening the mounting bolts
Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
After assembly, the necessary valve adjustments and timing belt tensioning are performed.

Thus, replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2112 16 valve is a simple process; it is important to follow the sequence of disassembly and reassembly.

Replacing a gasket on a 16-valve engine is quite difficult. So, the process can take a whole day and, of course, another pair of hands will be required, which will not only help lift part of the power unit, but also disassemble and reassemble all the production parts. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of a spare part, since many factors will depend on its quality, one of which is the penetration of antifreeze into the combustion chambers.

How to change it yourself?

Replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2110 with an injector or carburetor engine requires certain knowledge and skills.

To change the head mechanism on an 8 or 16 valve engine, you must carefully prepare for this task.

Tools and materials

If you change the cylinder head gasket yourself, you will need:

star key;
a set of ratchet wrenches with socket heads;
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers;
torque wrench for tightening cylinder head bolts;
spark plug key.

Channel Sdelaj Sam! Pljus interesting! published a video that will help you understand how to correctly determine the burnout of the cylinder head gasket between the cylinders of the power unit.

Step-by-step instruction

A detailed guide on how to remove and change the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2110 is given below:

Drive the car into a garage with a pit or onto an overpass; if possible, it is better to use a lift, since some of the work will be done under the bottom of the car.
Open the hood and loosen the bolt securing the battery terminal, disconnect it. This is necessary in order to prevent voltage surges during repairs.
Then disconnect the intake line from the exhaust pipe.
If the car is equipped with a carburetor engine, then the carburetor itself must be removed.
Disconnect the lead cables from the spark plugs. A wire with a connector is connected to the power unit temperature controller; it also needs to be removed. After this, disconnect the plug from the pressure and engine fluid level controller.
Loosen the fastening and disconnect the vacuum booster tube that is fixed to the intake manifold.
Disconnect the connectors and disconnect the ignition distributor controller.
Remove the gasoline pump with all its components. Loosen the clamps and disconnect the pipes connected to the pumping device. Some fuel may come out of it, so use a rag when dismantling it.
Using a wrench, loosen the screw securing the timing belt tension roller. This will allow you to remove the wheel along with the belt.
Next, secure the camshaft toothed disk to prevent it from turning during further repair work.
Unscrew the fixing screw and remove the pulley from its seat. To perform this task, you need to use two screwdrivers at the same time.
Next, locate the nuts securing the rear timing cover. You need to unscrew them and remove the cover. Using a Phillips head screwdriver, loosen the clamps to disconnect the pipes connected to the cylinder head exhaust pipe.
Using a hex wrench, remove the cylinder head mounting screws, there are ten in total. The bolts are removed along with the washers. Assess the condition of the latter. If washers or bolts are damaged, they must be replaced with new ones. The screws themselves are reusable parts, but they often wear out, leading to the need for replacement. You can tell how worn the bolts are by their length. If it is about 13.55 cm, then purchase new clamps in advance.
Then the cylinder head with the failed seal is dismantled.
During further installation of the GB, new screws must be lubricated with engine fluid. This will ensure simple and reliable fixation of the parts. In addition, lubrication will prevent accelerated wear of the bolts.
The contact surfaces of the head and the block must be thoroughly cleaned of wear and contaminants. These elements usually show signs of an outdated gasket. Thoroughly clean and dry the surfaces before further installation of the service seal.
Perform a visual inspection of the mounting screw holes. Often when repairs are carried out, they contain residues of the sealing element, engine fluid or antifreeze. Any dirt in the holes must be removed.
A new seal is being installed, which must first be cleaned and dried. During installation, make sure that the hole used for the passage of engine fluid is located between the fourth and third cylinders. Also, when installing the gasket, make sure that the valve elements of cylinder 1 are closed.
When the installation procedure is completed, you need to correctly tighten the cylinder head bolts, taking into account the sequence and torque. First, the two middle bolts are tightened - the bottom and the top, and then all the rest. On the first tightening circle, the torque should be 20 Nm, this indicator is controlled using a torque wrench. On the second lap the torque should be about 69.4-85.7 Nm. On the third circle, all the bolts are rotated 90 degrees in the prescribed order, and they are turned by the same amount on the fourth circle.
Further assembly is done in reverse order. When performing the task, it is not allowed to rotate the crankshaft and camshaft until you install the timing belt. The camshaft pulley is mounted in such a way that the protruding part of the hub is directed towards the car engine. When the repair procedure is completed, check the correct assembly and make sure there are no gaps on the valves. Also adjust the timing belt tension.

What should you pay attention to?

Pay attention to the condition of the screws. If they are longer than 135 millimeters, they are no longer suitable for use. Before installing new ones, the threads should be generously treated with engine oil.

When installing, you need to carefully prepare the surface of the block and cylinder head. It is cleaned of old sealant and all roughness is removed. The presence of oil in places where the elements come into contact is not allowed. There should only be red sealant here. Therefore, we thoroughly degrease the surface with alcohol or gasoline. Use clean lint rags.

General procedure

Although tightening the cylinder head has many nuances and features, the general technology of the operation is not complicated, it is only important to comply with the conditions. The general algorithm of work is as follows:

The general algorithm of work is as follows:

We study the documentation (tightening order and force);
We prepare the tool;
We inspect and wipe the surfaces of the block and head, clean the mounting holes (with a rag or compressed air);
We lay the gasket;
We put the block head in place (the correct placement of the gasket and head is ensured by guide bushings);
Lubricate the threads of the fasteners;
We install the latter in the holes and tighten them by hand;
We specify the drawing scheme, the number of approaches and the force of each of them, as well as the time of breaks between approaches (all this is indicated in the documentation);
We make the first approach, observing the tightening order (for convenience, you can mark the bolts according to the order with a marker). In the photo is a VAZ 2103;
We carry out all subsequent approaches.

Some vehicles additionally require re-tightening of fasteners after a certain period of vehicle operation. This information must be indicated in the technical documentation.

Recommendations regarding cylinder head assembly

Before you begin assembling all components, you should remove any contamination that could remain due to burnt consumables. There should be no oil stains or other stains on the threads. New gaskets are installed in such a position that their outer part is directed towards the bushings.

Before installing the cylinder head in a permanent place, you should carefully check the correspondence of all marks relative to the shafts. All bolts must be tightened firmly and securely; for this, a tool of suitable size and shape must be used.