The water pump of the engine cooling system, or simply the pump, is the most important element that is responsible for pumping coolant through the channels of the cooling system. Fluid circulation in the system is mandatory to maintain normal engine operating temperature.
If the pump wears out, partially or completely fails, you may encounter the following malfunctions:
- engine overheating;
- coolant leaks through the pump;
- extraneous noise in the pump area;
- water pump jamming and timing belt breakage;
To avoid serious damage, regular inspection and timely replacement of the VAZ 2114 pump is necessary. To do this, you will need to remove the drive from the water pump, dismantle the pump and correctly install the new pump. Read more in our article.
Cooling system water pump: device
Pump 2114, like on many other cars, has the following design:
- steel or aluminum body;
- impeller (impeller);
- the impeller is mounted on a drive shaft with a pulley on one side;
- on the other side of the shaft there is a pump bearing;
Inside the pump body there are special channels for supplying and discharging antifreeze. By rotating the drive shaft (driven by the timing belt) with the impeller, it is possible to realize efficient and constant circulation of coolant in the engine cooling system. Moreover, if the engine is not running, the pump also does not rotate and liquid does not circulate in the system.
Part price
The water pump for 2114 is produced by many Russian and foreign manufacturers. In addition to AvtoVAZ products, spare parts from the brands Luzar, TZA and Gates are popular among owners of this car. Parts from other brands are also available for sale. Their prices vary:
- "AvtoVAZ" - 925 - 1170 rubles.
- "BelMag" - 750 rubles.
- KRAFT – 945-1055 rubles.
- TZA - 1480-1760 rubles.
- Luzar – 920 rubles.
- Valeo - 1880 rubles.
The most durable, according to the majority of owners of the fourteenth, are considered to be branded products of the automaker, TZA and Luzar products. They demonstrate the optimal combination of price and quality.
Pump malfunctions
As a rule, the main breakdowns of a water pump include pump leakage, destruction of the impeller, wear and jamming of the drive shaft bearing. The most serious problem is a malfunction when the pump jams. In this case, there is a high probability of timing belt breakage and valve bending.
If the pump impeller is destroyed, the pump's performance drops and the engine begins to overheat. Often, destruction of the impeller occurs due to untimely replacement of antifreeze, severe contamination of the cooling system, natural wear, etc.
As for pump leaks, in this case the coolant level in the system may gradually or intensively decrease. If the seal is broken, and depending on the intensity of the leak, antifreeze can get onto the timing belt and damage the drive. Also, a decrease in coolant level can lead to overheating of the engine.
conclusions
If traces of scale are visible on the pump, the cooling system must be flushed urgently
All the causes and symptoms of a malfunction in the VAZ-2114 water pump have been examined, and the motorist, knowing this information, can easily prevent the failure of the unit on the road, as well as replace the element prematurely. Of course, if it is not possible to determine the condition of the unit yourself, then it is recommended to contact a car service for diagnostics.
How to check the pump
The first signs that indicate the need to check the water pump include:
- extraneous noise when the pump rotates;
- engine overheating for no other apparent reason;
- decrease in coolant level and leakage in the pump area, the interior smells of antifreeze;
At the same time, you should not delay diagnostics, since ignoring individual symptoms can lead to more serious consequences (broken timing belt, critical overheating, etc.).
If a visual external inspection reveals no problems with the pump, then you will need:
- Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, then clamp the upper radiator hose with your hand. The circulation of fluid in the system will indicate that, at a minimum, the pump is working.
- You can also remove the timing belt cover and then inspect the oil seal. If there are no dark spots or drips, then the pump’s tightness is normal.
Please note that these testing methods are superficial and do not provide a complete guarantee that the pump is fully operational. For example, a pump 2115 or a pump 2114, as well as on any other car, can be completely dry and run quietly. In this case, bearing play in such a pump is still present, and the impeller inside can be partially destroyed. As a result, there is a risk of bearing jamming or rapid leakage through the seal.
It is also important to understand that a damaged impeller does not allow the pump to pump coolant normally, which leads to overheating. To exclude such hidden faults, for a detailed check the pump must be removed from the car, after which the shaft and bearing are checked for play, the condition of the oil seal, pulley, etc. is assessed.
For this reason, even if it is working properly, replacing the pump is recommended every 60-80 thousand km. mileage At the same time, experienced specialists recommend always changing the pump along with the timing belt (after 40-50 thousand km). It is also important to use high-quality spare parts from reputable manufacturers. Otherwise, the water pump may fail after 20-30 thousand km. mileage
In a situation where you need a high-quality VAZ 2114 pump, the price of such a spare part may seem somewhat overpriced. However, the cost of such a pump is completely justified, especially when you consider the cost of repairing the engine in the event of a broken timing belt. The main thing is to purchase an original product, since fakes of dubious quality are often found on the market.
Purchase rules
When purchasing a spare part, visually inspect it, evaluate the condition of the metal and connections. Visually compare several options from different manufacturers for the quality of rotation of the blades and the clearly set angle on the side where the pump is attached to the engine block. Because an unevenly located pump will lead to belt wear. Below, we have selected the most popular models of water pumps, which are characterized by stable and long-lasting operation.
Choosing a pump (which is better for VAZ-2114)
- Gates.
- Luzar.
- TZA.
- HEPU.
Pump from TZA
Pump from Luzar
Pump from HEPU series R 620-625
Pay attention to how to determine the originality of a product.
It is very difficult to definitively answer the question of which manufacturer or company is better, because a large number of devices have both negative and positive reviews. Therefore, you should make your choice from the most popular models among car enthusiasts.
Replacing the pump on 2114
The pump on the VAZ 2114 is quite simple to change, as a result of which all the work can be done with your own hands. Once a new pump has been purchased, replacement is performed using the following tools:
- key to “10”;
- key to "17";
- key to "19";
- head at “10”;
- flat screwdriver.
On a VAZ 2114, replacing the pump is carried out as follows:
- The car must be driven into a pit or raised on a lift;
- Then you will need to remove the crankcase protection with key 17 and 19;
- Next, the engine must cool down (2-3 hours are required);
- After cooling, unscrew the valve from the radiator (on the left) to drain the antifreeze;
- Now you need to unscrew the bolt on the cylinder block to drain the coolant from the engine;
- Next, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts that hold the outer timing belt casing;
- Using a 17 key, you need to break off the toothed pulley bolt (it is important not to lose the key, having set the marks in advance);
- Also, using a 17 key, you need to unscrew the belt tensioner roller nut and remove the belt tensioner;
- Next, you need to remove the belt from the upper toothed pulley and pump by moving the side of the radiator;
We also recommend reading the article on how to replace injectors or clean the injector of a VAZ 2114. From this article you will learn about the features of cleaning or replacing injectors of a VAZ 2114. - Then the bolt holding the pulley is unscrewed and the borrow is pulled out (do not lose the key);
- Using a small ratchet and a 10mm socket, unscrew the bolts and nut that hold the rear belt cover;
- Having removed the protection, use a flat screwdriver to pry the pump over the edge, after which the pump is removed;
- Next, it is necessary to clean the cylinder block from the old pump gasket (completely clean the pump seat with fine sandpaper, since otherwise the pump will become crooked and leak);
- The penultimate stage is to coat the new gasket with sealant on both sides, after which the gasket is placed in the pump seat;
- We complete the work by inserting the pump into place (it is important that the inscription on the pump is on top);
- After the new VAZ 2114 pump is installed, you can reassemble it and wait some time for the sealant to harden (preferably at least 12 hours);
- Then you can fill in antifreeze and check the quality of the new pump and its tightness.
Metelli
This Italian manufacturer produces pumps not only for domestic cars, but also for well-known foreign cars. Many car factories cooperate with him. The products are subject to strict quality control and are practically not counterfeited.
Useful: Do-it-yourself pump replacement on a VAZ 2114 (step-by-step instructions)
Pros:
- High quality;
- Few fakes;
- Reliability;
- Durability;
- Rubber gasket included;
- Affordable price.
Minuses:
- Almost none found.
The cost is about 1300 rubles.
Recommendations
Although the pump on a VAZ 2114 is relatively easy to change (by the way, the pump on a VAZ 2115, 2114 or 2113 is changed in the same way), it is important to thoroughly clean the pump seat when replacing. The fact is that installation on old sealant will lead to an insufficiently tight fit. As a result, water pump leaks occur immediately or a little later, which will require repeated removal of the pump.
It is imperative that after installing a new pump, you need to give the new sealant time to completely harden. Only after hardening can antifreeze be poured into the system. A common mistake is to install the pump and immediately pour fresh coolant into the system.
We also recommend reading the article on how to check the pump without removing it from the car. From this article you will learn about the available ways to check the pump on a car.
After the new pump has been installed and antifreeze has been poured into the system, you should start the engine and warm up the engine to operating temperatures. Next, you should inspect the pump installation site for stains and drips.
You also need to conduct a test drive after replacement, and it is better to drive on uneven roads at medium speed. If no knocks are heard, the engine temperature is normal, and during a subsequent visual inspection there are no leaks in the pump area, replacing the VAZ 2114 pump with your own hands can be considered correct and completed successfully.
Results of the work carried out
After the work is completed and the time allotted for the sealant to harden, we start the car (VAZ-2115) and conduct a test drive a short distance, preferably on an uneven section of the road. If you don’t smell antifreeze in the car’s interior, and there are no extraneous noises or knocking coming from the engine, then the work to replace the cooling system pump has been carried out efficiently.
Thus, you have gained experience in replacing the water pump of your own car 2115 and saved about one thousand rubles, which would have been required when replacing it at a service station.
There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.
Why does antifreeze leak out of the expansion tank? We solve the problem without a service station
Increased pressure or temperature in the cooling system and, as a result, knocks the antifreeze out of the expansion tank, and the car is covered in a cloud of steam. The situation is unfortunately familiar to many motorists. Regardless of the car brand, the principle of cooling the propulsion system is the same for everyone. Typical malfunctions are also similar. Antifreeze leaks from the expansion tank for many reasons, and most of them are directly related to the cooling system, but can also be caused by a violation of the vehicle’s operating conditions. Signs and consequences Signs of a malfunction in cooling equipment that manifests itself in the expansion tank: Both situations mean changes in the normal functioning of the system and primarily indicate a violation of the tightness state, which causes squeezing out of the coolant. Malfunctions and their causes The design of the expansion tank is simple. This is a plastic container in which a sensor is installed to detect changes in the nominal coolant level. The container is hermetically sealed with a lid with a pressure regulator valve, which is activated when the pressure in the system exceeds the standard one. Depressurization caused by the tank can only occur in two cases - either the tank material has cracked or the valve on the lid has failed and air begins to flow into the system .The problem can be much more serious if the breakdown occurred due to a burnt-out gasket under the cylinder head (cylinder head). It is not always possible to determine such a malfunction by eye, because burnout could pierce the gasket both outside and inside the cylinder head. Here we recommend reading our article - “Symptoms of a broken cylinder head gasket.” The next reason may be a malfunction of the pump, which caused the circulation processes in the system to stop, which also occurs when the circuit depressurizes and air locks form. A thermostat failure also leads to a change in the physical condition of the coolant, its temperature rises, and as a result, the pressure rises and knocks the coolant out through the check valve of the tank. To add to the problem, the antifreeze may also boil. Troubleshooting Troubleshooting must begin with an analysis of the characteristics of its manifestation. When the coolant in the distribution tank behaves normally at idle, and when the speed increases, it begins to rise and spill out, then we can speak with confidence about such causes of failure as:
- loss of tightness in the pressure relief valve;
- thermostat failure;
- pump breakdown;
- pipe rupture.
When the cylinder head gasket breaks, antifreeze will be knocked out even at idle, regardless of the engine operating mode. The easiest way to determine such a breakdown is to look at the smoke from the exhaust pipe. If smoke comes with white steam, you can be sure that antifreeze is seeping into the cylinder head. If liquid drips from the pipe, then the most advanced motorists taste it. If the water tastes sweet, then it is antifreeze; if it tastes bitter, it is antifreeze; the taste is neutral - ordinary condensation. The reasons for the situation when antifreeze is knocked out of the expansion tank may be a breakdown of any unit involved in engine cooling. If this is damage to the cover or the pressure relief valve built into it, then you can fix such a breakdown yourself by replacing the cover with a working one. Replacing the thermostat and pump in a garage can also be done, but will require special knowledge and skills. But replacing the cylinder head gasket definitely needs to be entrusted to a specialist.
