Steering wheel vibration at speed 100-120: reasons

Question: “In a relatively new VAZ-2110, when braking at a speed of about 100 km/h, quite noticeable vibrations appear on the steering wheel. What causes them and how to eliminate this unpleasant phenomenon?

The dog is buried not in the steering, but in the brakes of the “tenth” VAZ family. However, this also applies to eight-wheelers, as well as owners of other front-wheel drive cars.

Diagnosis and medications
How is this disease treated? Those who are inclined to believe in miracles install new brake pads. In very rare cases, if the disease has not gone too far, this helps, but in most cases it is a waste of time and money (unless, of course, the old pads have been asking for replacement for a long time). It's like trying to get rid of a severe sore throat by sucking on mints. Recommendations from garage “attending doctors”: you need to replace the brake discs with new ones. The recipe for those who have used this “medicine” more than once: install only imported discs, because our new discs, especially those purchased on the market, can have more runout than the old ones installed on the assembly line, and the metal of domestic brake discs is often “raw” ”, easily amenable to “grinding” with brake pads and a mixture of road dust and sand. OK then. We spent some money and installed the best imported wheels from a serious Western manufacturer. The result is fifty-fifty. Why? Yes, because the “illness” can sit even deeper in the body.

An example from my practice

So, “patient”: my personal VAZ-2112, mileage 55 thousand km. Complaints: steering wheel shakes when braking at high speed. Preventive measures: the chassis and controls were checked, the left steering tip was replaced, the wheels were balanced.

Treatment: replacement or grooving of brake discs. He didn’t write out a prescription for buying new brake discs for the “patient”: he had to pay for it himself, and because of the presence of a powerful 16-valve engine, his discs were ventilated, which means they weren’t cheap. I decided to resort to surgical intervention - to sharpen the discs, their thickness is still acceptable, but it’s up to the turner to decide. Attention: turning
brake discs is a job that requires high qualifications, so trust it only to a highly qualified turner!
The visible roughness of the working surfaces after grooving is not scary. A highly qualified turner I know sharpened the discs. Luckily for me, the thickness of the disks was enough ( let me remind you that the VAZ “tenth” family has a minimum allowable thickness of a ventilated disk - 17.8 mm, and a non-ventilated one - 10.8 mm).

Together with the turner, we put the wheels in place in the garage. They installed one. The mood is great. All that remains is to secure the caliper and install the wheel, but some worm is gnawing. I listened to my inner voice - it asks not to install the wheel, but to check the disc runout. No, this is necessary, you doubt the master’s qualifications?! Yes, these wheels from his hands are better than the new factory ones. And he presses his point: maybe there’s something else wrong there.

In short, we checked - the runout of the working surface of the disk is twenty-five hundredths! These are the times. Although the factory allows for a larger value - fifteen hundred square meters, why would I need such a noticeable beat on a car that I like to drive on the windy highway? Look how the indicator needle jumps! What's the matter? The bearing has nothing to do with it, we checked it. We remove the disk and measure the hub runout. Nightmare, eighteen hundred square meters are “walking”! That's it, we've arrived. Hello VAZ and its suppliers...

Alternative medicine

The mood is at zero, but soon a rather bold thought comes: is it possible to grind the hub on the spot, like a part clamped in the chuck of a lathe, if the revolutions required for turning work are enough, of course? Turner: why can’t we, let’s try, but I can’t vouch for the result, this is the first time. In general, the subtext is this: if you are ready to experiment on your car, then please, but without a guarantee. I give the good, but what, exactly, do I have to lose? One hell of a lot, this factory “gift” needs to be changed or sharpened, and to do this the hub must be pressed out, then pressed in (and this is a difficult task in garage conditions), a new bearing must be bought - but where is the guarantee that it is of high quality? Let’s experiment, I say: for you it’s experience, for me it’s a chance to get by with little blood, and it’s interesting, in the end, how the whole thing will end. He begins to estimate the size of the device and where to attach it. The device must, firstly, be rigidly fastened, and secondly, be strictly perpendicular to the plane of rotation, and you need to think about how and at what angle to fix the cutter. When the device was ready, we placed powerful stops under the car, removed the jack, securely tied the brake caliper with wire to the shock absorber strut away from the “lathe,” started the engine and engaged fourth gear. The “machine” started working, there are enough revolutions, thin chips begin to wrap around the cutter. After one full pass, the remaining “bald patch” on the hub is clearly visible. After a few visits she disappears. At the end of the turning work, the hub is machined “to zeros”. Then it’s the turn of the other wheel.

What's the result?

The experiment was a success and time-tested - I’ve been driving without problems for several years now.

New brake discs purchased are still lying around in the garage. Only questions from familiar “ten drivers” - “What about yours, does the steering wheel vibrate when braking?” - remind us of this misfortune.

The figure shows that brake disc 3 is attached to part number 2. What part is this? Hub. Could she also be “sick”? Maybe. Moreover, a small runout of the hub leads to noticeable runout of the brake disc in places as far as possible from the axis of rotation, that is, the area where the brake pads operate. When braking at high speed, the pads clamp on the rapidly rotating curved disk, and the resulting vibrations are transmitted to the steering wheel through the swing arm, tie rods and steering mechanism.

CONCLUSION

Before changing discs, you need to measure the hub runout. The figure shows that vibrations can also occur due to the fault of the bearing and, most incredibly, due to poor tightening of the hub nut.

PS Drawings and a detailed description of the device are not given here for one simple reason: only a highly qualified turner can turn the hub in this way, and such a specialist only needs to look at the photographs to understand what kind of cutter is used and the design of its fastening (and at the same time immediately improve it, based on your capabilities).
The author categorically does not advise ordinary car owners to conduct such experiments!!! And further.
According to safety regulations, the use of gloves during turning work is prohibited. In the photo, the master’s hands are wearing gloves, but, firstly, these are the hands of a master, and secondly, the temperature in the garage was zero. ©
Alexander Elchishchev Photo by the author
Below is a photo of the device and cutter for those who understand.

Owners of new VAZ 2110 cars quite often ask the question: “Why do noticeable and very unpleasant vibrations in the steering wheel occur when trying to brake at a speed of about 100 km/h?” Drivers of the "ten" want to know about the reasons that lead to such an unexpected reaction of the car, as well as ways to eliminate this phenomenon.

It is quite difficult to identify the cause of such abnormal behavior of a car in a garage, but experienced drivers, through trial and error, were able to find out that the reason for this phenomenon lies not in the steering, but in the braking system.

Steering wheel wobble on rough roads and turns

If such vibration is observed on the steering column when cornering, then, with a high degree of probability, the cause is failed silent blocks and CV joints.
It is not difficult to identify similar problems. You just need to carry out the required inspection of the car on a lift or pit, and based on the results of such diagnostics, replace the failed spare parts. You should also pay attention to the front wheel hubs and bearings, which can often fail on broken Russian roads, which leads to the steering wheel wobbling on turns

When driving on uneven roads, you may often experience increased vibration in the steering column. Many car owners mistakenly believe that such vibrations are a normal phenomenon when driving on uneven roads. However, in reality, such a beating of the steering wheel indicates certain problems with the car’s suspension.

First of all, you need to check the tire pressure. It is quite possible that such vibration or the car pulling to the side is caused precisely by incorrect tire pressure.

You should also inspect the bushing and steering rack. It is best to entrust such diagnostics to professionals who will be able to determine the condition of certain components of the car using one visual inspection and recommend that you repair the car.

Steering wheel wobble when cornering at high speed may indicate wear on the shock absorbers in the front suspension. In this case, it is necessary to hang the wheels on a stand, check the condition of the radiators and, if necessary, replace them. Remember that shock absorbers are replaced in pairs, so you won’t be able to save money by replacing just one failed shock absorber.

The steering wheel only vibrates at high speeds

Typically, neither wheel rims nor tires have a completely ideal shape or surface. The mass of different elements of the wheels differs, then during the rotation of the wheel the heaviest place attracts the middle of the wheel, which is a centrifugal force, and this means that at high rotation speeds this effect will be transmitted along the chain to the steering wheel in the form of vibration.

Therefore, wheel balancing must be done in a timely manner, as well as when replacing wheels or tires on a car. The essence of balancing is to equalize the weight of the wheel with special weights that are fixed to the disk.

Driving with wheels that are out of balance for a long time can cause a lot of wear in some areas of the tires, which will create even more vibration. Also, this problem contributes to a lot of wear on the suspension elements, namely the wheel bearing.

The main causes of imbalance are slight vibration at high speeds, in passenger cars when driving at a speed of at least 60 km per hour. You should inspect the car's wheels. If the discs do not have any damage, you have not recently driven your car into large holes, the tires are not too worn out, but vibration is felt only on the steering wheel, or when the car accelerates, first on the steering wheel, and then the whole car begins to shake, then most often The problem is detected in the imbalance of the wheels.

Many people think that if the steering wheel shakes, then only the front wheels need to be balanced. This is a false statement; all wheels must be balanced. For passenger cars, balancing will cost slightly less than for SUVs or crossovers. Typically, the cost of this work depends on the size of the wheels and the type of disk: cast or stamped.

Wheels are loose

This problem is easy to identify and fix, as it causes vibration at speeds of 100-120. The VAZ-2110 will make a characteristic dull sound. The problem is the loose nuts and bolts securing one wheel or several. Do not neglect checking, it can be dangerous. The wheel may simply unscrew while driving.

The beating itself is very reminiscent of vibrations on the steering wheel and body when the reason was in the wheels and tires. The difference here is that this shaking begins at low speeds. This phenomenon can be observed at different speeds.

So, we found out for what reasons vibration occurs on the body when driving at speeds of more than 100 kilometers per hour.

How to change the damper mounts of the power unit

Lada 2110 on your own?

Diagnostics and standard causes of vibrations

There may be several reasons why vibrations are observed on the steering wheel of a VAZ 2110 car. In many cases, a superficial diagnosis will not provide accurate answers, and only a competent, thorough examination will help determine an accurate diagnosis.

Brake pads

As a rule, novice motorists who understand little about cars naively believe that shaking and vibration are the result of worn-out vehicles. Having installed new brake pads, motorists begin to understand that the reasons lie much deeper. Although, if this “disease” has not gone too far, then changing the pads also helps, but for a while. And for the most part, replacing pads with new ones is a waste of time and effort.

Discs

As for the so-called “garage” specialists, they will all say the same thing - vibrations are associated with, which need to be replaced with new ones. And it is imperative to install imported brake discs, since domestic ones do not cope well with their function. What's true is true. The runout of domestic brake discs installed on a car is much greater than even that of old discs installed on an assembly line. In addition, the metal of our discs is often “raw,” so to speak, that is, it is easily affected by the brake pads and wears off.

Note. Installing new brake discs does not completely guarantee that vibrations will disappear. The fact is that the reason may lie even deeper, and changing disks will only give half the effect.

Usually, when a car runs more than 50 thousand km, complaints about steering wheel shaking increase. The standard diagnostic option in service centers is as follows:

The chassis of the car is carefully checked;
The vehicle controls are subject to diagnostics;
The left one is often replaced;
Wheels are being balanced;
Brake discs are either replaced with new ones or sharpened.

The question arises: why buy new brake discs, especially ventilated ones (they are not cheap), if you can simply grind them, which gives excellent results.

Attention! It is noteworthy that sharpening brake discs is not so easy. This requires the skills of a highly qualified turner, who can identify by eye the excess part of the working surfaces, which he can successfully grind off. After this, the surfaces may remain rough, but there is no need to worry about this.

Attention! The minimum permissible thickness of a ventilated disc for a VAZ 2110 is 17.8 mm, and a non-ventilated one is 10.8 mm.

Non-standard reasons

It’s interesting, but it also happens that after sharpening and installing the discs, the vibrations on the steering wheel do not disappear. In this case, an unconventional method can help - turning the hub itself on a lathe, which reduces runout.

Algorithm for grooving the hub

So:

A special device is attached rigidly and at the desired angle (necessarily strictly perpendicular to the plane of rotation);
Powerful supports are placed under the car;
The jack is removed, and the brake caliper is tied firmly to the shock absorber strut.

Note. You need to tie the brake caliper with wire and away from the lathe.

We start the engine;
We turn on fourth gear;
We connect the “machine”.

Note. The chips should be thinly wound around the cutter. After one full pass, the remaining portion will be visibly visible on the hub. After the next few visits, this very “bald patch” will completely disappear.

The hub is ground to zero.

The grenade fell apart

On a VAZ 2110, the causes of vibration in the steering wheel may be associated with a grenade, although some would-be masters deny this. Features of steering wheel vibration when a grenade is scattered:

When accelerating, vibrations are clearly felt;
You feel them and disappear when you coast;
In the early stages, vibration can be felt at speeds of 60-80 km/h;
At low speeds vibrations are not felt;
The car may run off the road in the later stages of this disease, especially at speeds above 100 km/h;
In addition to the vibrations, you also feel a terrible knocking sound, and when you release the gas pedal, the vibration immediately disappears;
Vibrations can clearly increase in proportion to the number of people in the cabin (the more people there are, the stronger the vibration);
A strong frontal wind can also cause an increase in vibrations.

If you observe the above symptoms, you need to inspect the grenade. It is noteworthy that a CV joint defect may not be immediately noticed. You'll have to tinker a little, take the shafts with grenades in your hands and twist them, changing the angle.

Wheel balancing is the most common cause of vibration in the steering wheel.

As you know, balancing the wheels of a car plays a vital role in driving a vehicle. It can be damaged by any little thing or foreign objects that get into the wheel tread.

Note. Experts advise checking the balancing every 5 thousand km of the car.

It is worth noting that there are no perfectly balanced wheels. It is customary to recognize each wheel as having its own heavy section, which, when spinning and gaining speed, prevents the car from driving normally. If the balancing is incorrect, the car begins to bounce and sway on the road, and vibrations are felt in the steering wheel.

About the rake

Also, the reason is hidden in the steering rack. It must be remembered that the clearances of the suspension elements themselves do not cause vibrations or beating on the steering wheel. The unfixed part becomes a catalyst. But the main problem is the wheels, and you need to start from this. The steering wheel of the VAZ-2110 also shakes at low speed due to a faulty power steering mechanism. In this case, the rack is directly connected to the rods - hence the vibrations. In this case, experienced car owners advise inserting a rubber element into the steering shaft cardan. A ball with a diameter of 22 mm made of synthetic rubber will do. But the material wears out and cracks over time. As a more durable solution, you can use a cube with a side of 20 mm from the bumper of classic VAZ models.

Vibration on the steering wheel of a VAZ 2110: causes and solutions

VAZ 2110 - steering wheel vibrations
Car owners often face the problem of play and wobble in the steering wheel. Thus, vibration on the steering wheel of a VAZ 2110 is a fairly common phenomenon, observed more often at a speed of 90 km/h. The shaking increases more and more when driving exceeds 100 km/h, regardless of the road surface. Let's try to figure out in this article why vibrations occur on the steering wheel of the VAZ 2110?

DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL

Symptoms of damping flywheel failure:

creaking, grinding noise when starting and stopping the power unit;
rumbling sound when the engine is idling;
vibration transmitted to the body and interior (with non-critical wear only in cold weather).

The reason for this behavior is the backlash of the elements of the spring-damper system, which is designed to dampen torsional vibrations. On cars with manual transmission, to check the flywheel, just squeeze the clutch. If the engine begins to run smoother and vibrations have decreased, it means that the reason for unstable idling is the dual-mass flywheel. The owner of a car with a robotic gearbox is left to rely on indirect signs and defects after disassembly.

KNOCKING AND UNEVEN OPERATION IN COLD

Accelerated wear of cylinders and pistons is a real problem for many owners of Volkswagen and Skoda cars with gasoline engines. Recently, cases of scoring in cylinders on Hyundai cars have become more frequent. Due to the tendency to lighten the CPG elements, reduce the thickness of the piston rings, the flame zone and the length of the skirt, repositioning the pistons is associated with heavy loads. Local overheating associated with operating a car in traffic jams (disturbed air flow, long periods of idle time), improper engine warming up in winter, lead to wear of the CPG.

As a result, the engines begin to knock when cold. As it warms up, the knocking, and with it the increased vibration in the body, stops.

Ways to eliminate vibrations

After competent, professional installation of the causes of engine vibrations, they must be eliminated as soon as possible. The methods of “treatment” are very diverse, it all depends on the “diagnosis”.

Low compression

One of the reasons for engine tripping is low compression levels in the cylinders. This may occur due to the failure of any part that is part of the cylinder-piston group. In order to fix this problem, you will have to resort to disassembling the engine itself.

The cause of low compression may be a worn piston, piston rings and/or valves. In this case, the most optimal and rational option for eliminating vibration will be only a complete professional replacement of defective parts.

If you replace it yourself or restore it, further, more significant breakdowns may occur, and therefore costly repairs of the entire power plant.

Uneven air flow

If air enters the combustion chamber disproportionately, this can be corrected by simply replacing the air filter. You should also carefully inspect the air supply system for cracks and chips. It is recommended to replace the mass air supply and throttle sensors.

Incorrect fuel supply

In this case, professional car mechanics advise performing the following algorithm of actions:

carefully inspect and clean the injectors;
if after this the problem has not been resolved, then the injectors must be completely replaced;
carry out an inspection of the condition and operation of the fuel pump, if necessary, replace the assembly;
identify and reset ECU errors

Ignition system

When diagnosing early or, conversely, later ignition timing in the system, you should pay attention to the condition and soot of the spark plugs, as well as the integrity of the high-voltage wires. If replacement is required, it is best to do this with the entire set

Engine mounts

If the fastening elements become loose or the engine mounts fail, it is necessary to strengthen the fastenings accordingly and consistently. Check the pillows for cracks and other defects; if necessary, replace them in pairs or completely.

In addition to the above measures, to eliminate strong vibrations emanating from the engine, proper installation of the timing belt, professional balancing of the crankshaft, as well as replacement of CPG elements of different weights (worn out) may be relevant.

Thus, the “dancing” of the power unit can occur for various reasons, which are also eliminated accordingly, each according to its own algorithm. Eliminating the causes of vibrations is a necessary process, since such vibrations, in addition to causing discomfort to the driver and passengers, can lead to expensive repairs of the car engine itself.

In addition, one of the common causes of strong vibration is the spontaneous loosening of fasteners. And if a major engine overhaul is an expensive procedure, but still fixable, then loose bolts and nuts, especially while the car is moving, can lead to irreparable consequences.

Damaged wheels or tires cause vibration

Most often, the cause of vibration is the curvature of the wheels, which is simply determined by any tire shop specialist when rotating the wheel on a special stand. The master should inform you about this. However, it is recommended to be present during the balancing process and make sure that the wheel is correctly diagnosed. If, while rotating the wheel, observing one point on the edge of the tire, it is clear that the wheel is jumping, then it is necessary to find out the reason for this. It is necessary to determine whether the rubber jumps together with the entire wheel, or whether the disk rotates without beating. If the wheel jumps together with the disc, then the cause is the disc, and if not, then the cause is the tires.

Usually the wheel is bent due to a damaged disk when falling into a deep hole in the spring, when the holes are hidden by water. You can find out the curvature of the disks and inspect it for damage with your own hands, without removing the wheels from the car. The inner side of the disc is more susceptible to damage. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to see the damage there yourself; it is better to go to a tire repair shop. Stamped steel wheels are more susceptible to damage than cast models.

But in addition to dents, the disc can be crooked during manufacturing. At the same time, when checking it on a balancing stand, it will rotate smoothly, but an imbalance will be observed on the machine. This is possible because the wheel is fixed on the balancing stand along the central hole of the hub, and on the car the wheel is mounted on other holes for nuts or bolts. It often happens that the holes do not allow the wheel to be secured exactly in the center. Also, the disc may be deformed, which usually happens with cheap steel or alloy wheels.

Replacing a VAZ steering wheel

Steering wheel play VAZ 2110

For each steering wheel, factory standards apply, according to which the permissible force on them and the resistance that the structure itself can withstand are determined. That is why, if you plan to replace the steering wheel, it is recommended to give preference to a traditional steering wheel with an additional braid made of materials that provide higher reliability of contacts with the surface of the steering wheel rim. The procedure will require the following materials and tools:

Phillips screwdriver;
Head “24”;
New steering wheel;
A piece of wire or wire;
Chalk, marker or something else for marking.

Removing the steering wheel

Replacing a steering wheel is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. When replacing the steering wheel, it is first removed. This procedure is carried out in the following order:

First, the car must be installed on an inspection ditch or lift;
Then the hood of the car is lifted and the terminal of the “negative” wire is disconnected from the battery terminal;

Markings are applied to the steering wheel and dashboard;
Then the seven screws securing the steering column casings are unscrewed and the lower steering column casing is removed;
By unlocking the steering column adjustment lever, the column moves down. After this, moving up reveals the upper steering column casing;

Using a screwdriver, pry up the cover plate of the signal switch and remove it;
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws that hold the horn button and remove the cover;

Using a 24mm socket, the nut that secures the steering wheel to several threaded screws is unscrewed so that it can move;
With rocking, the steering wheel is pulled along the shaft splines.

Before finally removing the steering wheel, you should remember, or better yet, mark its position relative to the shaft, as well as the position of the turn signal switch in relation to the plastic ring;
After unscrewing the nut, the steering wheel is removed;
After aligning the two wheels, the mark is transferred from the removed steering wheel to the new one that is planned to be installed.

Installation of a new steering wheel

Installing a new steering wheel is performed in the reverse order of removal:

During the installation process, the steering column switch is set to the neutral position, after which installation can be carried out.

After tightening the nut, the head is removed and the wire is removed, after which the nut is tightened.
Also, when installing the steering wheel, you should turn the turn signal switch ring so that the pin on the hub fits into the groove of the ring (the ring returns the turn signal switch to its initial position when the car exits a turn).
When replacing a steering wheel with a new one with an adapter, it becomes necessary to install an adapter on the shaft. The new steering wheel is installed in such a way that it cannot come off while driving. The central nut is secured, after which the decorative plug is put on.
Then the negative wire is connected to the battery, the functionality of the sound signal and the steering column switch is checked.

How is a malfunction diagnosed?

To identify the runout of one of the front wheels, you will need a jack, wheel chocks and a wheel wrench. The diagnostic procedure is as follows:

Park the machine on level ground and pull the handbrake all the way. Additionally, secure the car with boots placed under any rear wheel.
Jack up the front wheel until it hangs off the ground. On vehicles with front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive, be sure to move the gearshift lever to neutral.
Rotate the suspended rim with your hands. If you feel stuck in a certain position, remove the wheel and check that the uneven disc is rubbing against the pads, causing strong vibration when braking.

The essence of the diagnosis is simple: after operation, the brake pads move back just enough to free the rotating surfaces. The lining must be forced apart to its maximum open position. If the metal working part is bent, then when rotating the part will begin to get stuck between the pads.

If the vibration does not cause the car to deviate from a straight path while driving and does not cause the steering wheel to twitch, check the suspension and chassis components. Drive the vehicle into the inspection ditch and jerk the steering rods to check for play. The performance of shock absorbers is checked by rocking the car up and down with body weight. After applying force, the machine should swing no more than 1 time.

How to eliminate runout?

When your car's steering wheel vibrates slightly during heavy braking, you can simply do nothing and drive on, taking appropriate safety measures. The trick is to avoid decelerating too quickly, otherwise the problem will get worse and you risk losing your vigilance and running off the road.

If the beating is quite noticeable and really threatens the safety of people (vehicle passengers and pedestrians), the deformed disk should be replaced or restored. The first way is associated with significant financial costs - spare parts for some brands of cars are quite expensive. In addition, the brake discs must be replaced in pairs, otherwise during moments of sharp deceleration the front part of the car will begin to pull to the side.

Restoring discs involves turning them on a specialized machine. The equipment of advanced service stations allows metal to be processed without removing the defective part from the machine. The procedure will be cheaper than purchasing and installing new spare parts.

When the car shakes when braking, regardless of speed, you need to look for and fix the problem elsewhere:

Make sure that the linings of the rear and front wheels are not flooded with brake fluid. A secondary symptom is a decrease in its level in the expansion tank.
Check the functionality of the brake calipers and wheel cylinders. The cause of vibration is often a jammed piston, and fluid leaks are often caused by a leaky cuff.
Sometimes the steering wheel starts to vibrate after replacing the pads. This symptom indicates low quality of installed spare parts.

In some cases, vibration appears due to broken brake pads. The malfunction is accompanied by an extraneous sound of grinding or rubbing against metal.

The wheel alignment is broken

Directly depending on the incorrectly set angle, vibration can only occur during acceleration or in a certain speed range. Incorrect wheel alignment can be detected very quickly - tires wear unevenly.

If only the outer or only the inner part is wiped, then this is the same situation. The problem can be corrected by adjusting the angles. Then 100-120 km/h will disappear.

But the camber/toe has been adjusted, but the problem has not gone away. The angle has been corrected, that's a fact. But the car owner decided not to change the tires, because they can still drive. But the tires “drive” the way they are used to. This means that you need to change the tires or drive at low speeds for a period of time, then the tread will wear out evenly and the problem will be solved.

Painfully banal

If the body vibrates when accelerating, you should not be upset and immediately count out a large amount for repairs. Below are some common and not so common cases that can cause discomfort when driving:

Dirt or ice block stuck to the inner rim of the wheel rim. Diagnosing the adhesion of dirt is not difficult, since noticeable beating will occur only after off-road driving. In winter, every driver should be prepared for such troubles;
Incorrect installation of brake and wheel discs. If the mating plane has not been cleared of contaminants or is deformed, this will cause an increase in vibration load during movement;
discrepancy between the landing dimensions of the wheel rims. Each disk has its own installation parameters, violation of which can lead to imbalance. This mainly concerns disc bolt patterns;
loose disk fastenings. This is the first thing to check when you notice runout in the steering wheel. The consequences of neglecting this advice can be very dire.

There can be a huge number of possible problems with a car, and a specific breakdown does not always give specific signs of its presence. Drivers often complain about body shaking when accelerating or at a certain speed. There can be quite a lot of problems that determine this indicator. If your car has vibration during acceleration, you should look at all possible breakdowns and immediately replace the failed components.

It is not always possible to tell by the nature of the vibration where exactly the problem lies. On different cars, only the steering column can vibrate, putting it in the driver’s hands, but the entire body can shake. It all depends on the design, nature and degree of damage to the components and assemblies that need to be replaced. Let's look at the main causes of vibration during overclocking.

Cardan transmission

On many cars there is a small universal joint in the steering column. It also needs to be examined. You can get to it by removing the protective casing of the column. The element is located in the place where it enters the body. If the cardan shaft is loose, there is wear on it. After replacing this element, the steering wheel no longer vibrates when braking. This does not happen often, but such a malfunction cannot be ruled out.

Steering wheel vibration at speed due to wheel imbalance

A common cause of this problem is the accumulation of a large amount of soil or snow on the tires. This deficiency often appears for a while. As practice shows, vibration on the steering wheel disappears at a speed of 100 km/h, but may return after a few minutes. It is easy to find out the reason for the steering wheel beating at speeds of 100, 120 km/h with alloy wheels. If you have them made of steel, this will not be so easy for the driver to do, because the ventilation holes here are small. Lumps of earth often collect inside the disk and are not visible to the naked eye.

In order to use only the best consumables when caring for your car, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the rating of motor oils.

Shaking and trembling: why does the steering wheel shake and what to do about it?

Many people are familiar with this unpleasant feeling when some kind of devil takes possession of the steering wheel and begins to shake it while driving. The steering wheel may vibrate unpleasantly, or it may actually shake. Why is this happening? The reasons vary, and some of them are not as obvious as they seem.

Obvious-probable

Let me make a small lyrical digression.

I once went with my family to relax in very wild nature. I was driving a Logan and therefore wasn’t afraid to go places where normal people don’t go in “puzoterki”. The road went through a forest, the last settlement remained a few kilometers behind. Suddenly a puddle appeared right across the road. “Well, a puddle is like a puddle, why be afraid of it,” I thought. My wife, however, hinted that it would be better not to get into it because of the wildness and sparsely populated areas, but I did not listen to this wise woman. Of course, the puddle turned out to be not even a super-puddle, but a nice, deep stream with a muddy bottom. Logan hung on the rapids, his nose buried in the water. While my wife was triumphant in the car, and I was losing the remnants of the greatness of the alpha male, the running water faithfully carried sand and silt into the front suspension.

The jack fell into the muddy bottom, a cubic meter of sticks, boards, branches and logs successfully went there. The hope of getting out on my own also drowned in this vile stream. The wife was no longer triumphant and quietly hissed. There is nowhere to go for help, calling friends is useless. And then I hear: something is roaring in the forest and heading towards me.

The faces of the men in the two UAZs were incomparable. And not because the owners of the faces took it well on their chests, but because until today they had not met such an enchanting idiot in the forest on Logan. But still, two UAZs are strength. Even my wife perked up again and began to troll me harshly again, feeling the support of the little blue men from the UAZ cars.

One UAZ couldn’t pull me out. We anchored behind the second one, but also could not pull it out - the winch failed. With the stern directness of a drunken Russian man, one of the UAZ drivers suggested: let me pull you back from acceleration. If it works out well, if it doesn’t work out... Well, I don’t know.

I examined Logan again. The most I risked was the rear towing eye. If it comes off, to hell with it. We have to take a risk.

With acceleration and on the third or fourth attempt, the UAZ still pulled Logan out of the trap. By that time, Renault had already gone under water more than up to the hub (I was digging like a stung mole. It’s useless, though). But still they pulled him out. To celebrate, I gave the driver all the cash I had and drove towards the house.

Why did I tell all this? Then, after this adventure, Logan's steering wheel went crazy. He was shaking so much that I didn’t even dare to drive faster than 80 km/h. It is clear that silt and sand remained on the disks, which disrupted the wheel balancing.

Several times I tried to wash everything off at the self-service car wash, but it was no use. Only a lift and a construction spatula helped, with which I scraped off exactly a bucket of sand, dried silt and clay from the inside of the disks. So: dirt on the disks, which disrupts the correct balancing of the wheel, is one of the main reasons for the steering wheel wobbling. Sorry for the too long story - it was needed for clarity.

By the way, in winter, snow stuck to the disk also spoils the balancing. And if it freezes with ice on the chassis parts, then out of fear you can go to the suspension diagnostics (sometimes there is a good knock). However, this is not so bad: there is no such thing as unnecessary diagnostics.

Another striking example of imbalance is the beating of the steering wheel after seasonal tire fitting. There is nothing to explain here: during each tire change, balancing is simply necessary. But if it’s done, but the steering wheel still shakes at certain speeds (in a fairly narrow range, for example, 80-90 or 100-120 km/h), then most likely it needs to be done again and in another place. Unfortunately, not always and not everywhere they know how to balance wheels. Sometimes this is done with pebbles stuck in the tread, with dirty discs, on broken machines and crooked hands. It happens.

Ways to solve the problem

Whatever the reasons for the steering wheel beating, it is necessary to carry out high-quality diagnostics and eliminate the problems. This will make it possible to avoid expensive repairs, and most importantly, prevent accidents!

If the steering wheel shakes at low speed, proceed as follows:

check the cleanliness of the wheel rims;
check the balancing and fastening of bolts on the wheels;
test discs for deformation;
check the quality of rubber;
diagnose the suspension;
examine brake discs and drums;
check the engine mounting;
try the quality of the drive shaft.

Wheel rims are easier and faster to clean at a car wash. A stream of water will remove accumulated dirt. Hit the disc with some object, reducing the amplitude of vibrations of the steering wheel, in order to safely drive to the car wash or service station.

Have your balancing done at a tire shop. Balance all 4 wheels, especially if the steering wheel shakes at low speeds. At the same time, eliminate the deformation of the wheel rims and give them their initial shape on a straightening machine.

Replace defective tires. It will not be possible to restore it - you will have to buy new tires and mount them according to the canons of proper balancing.

The beating that occurs during braking can be eliminated at a service station. The machine grinds and restores the surface of the brake discs if the degree of wear is low.

It is better not to fix steering wheel wobble at speed yourself. Only car services will accurately determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it. Most workshops work with specific brands of cars; they have a better understanding of the specifics of the models, know the characteristic “sores” and are able to quickly recognize them.

The brake discs have wear, but it is small; when opening the drums, everything seems to be in order.

The reason is most likely in the rear brake drums. You can’t determine anything visually. Put it in a lathe and you will be surprised what an ellipse it is. Advice: Buy new rear brake drums and immediately take them to a turner, believe me, the new ones are also crooked. Remove the front brake discs and also take them to a turner. If the wear is not very great, he will sharpen them. If the wear is great, then go to the store and buy new ones, and again to the turner. After the groove, put it on and that’s it, nothing else will vibrate under your foot. Verified.

crusg. Cleveland (Oleg)

Car make: Subaru

Car model: Outback

Life values and hobbies: Videography - Art - Photography

as well as: Recreation - Travel

and also: Humor

Steering wheel wobble when driving due to damaged or poor-quality discs

Both in the VAZ 2110 and other cars, steering wheel vibration at speed can occur due to the fact that the wheels are curved. Any specialist in tire fitting will notice this fact. In addition to dents, there may also be factory distortions on the wheel. If your tires have already served you for several years, they are quite old - this can negatively affect the full operation of the steering wheel. Common signs of tire deformation include:

poor, worn condition of the cord;
potholes in the tires due to the fact that you previously fell into holes at speed;
poor quality production, which can manifest itself in different ways.

Could there be vibration due to the steering rack of the VAZ 2110

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Hello everyone. The reason that prompted me to go all out was the invincible vibration at speeds of 110 km/h (auto in the signature). I will be as brief as possible. Everything I describe was tested on my car personally. So, let's go.

What can cause such an unpleasant vibration in the steering wheel? -The first and most important thing is the wheels and their balancing. -The second is the state of the drives, yes, exactly them.

Here I will touch on the peculiarities of balancing wheels with standard steel rims. I dare say that:

- First. Original steel disks have a displacement of the central hole of the disk relative to the axis of rotation of the wheel (approximately 0.5..0.8 mm), hence the incorrectness of conventional balancing on a machine (balancing along the central hole of the disk).

Why does it hit the steering wheel?

The reason for vibration or shock in the steering wheel may be that the steering rod joints and the mechanism itself have failed. There are also often situations when the whole reason lies in the wheels of the car. To figure this out, you should follow the rules below.

Diagnostics of brake discs and pads

Grooves and wear are visible, but you won’t be able to see that the disc has moved.

In most cases, “crooked” brake discs are to blame. People say that they were “led.” You can try to assess the condition of the disks visually, or you can use special diagnostic equipment. It will measure vibration and give an accurate verdict on the condition of the brake system and the need to replace the brake discs.

Now it’s better, but before there were a lot of fakes, and you could run into “crooked” disks even with a new part

Suspension diagnostics

When there is vibration in the steering wheel, the following actions should be taken:

Turn the steering wheel to the right all the way. In this position of the wheels, it becomes possible to access the traction joints.
You should check the rubber cover on the hinge.
It must not be damaged. In this case, it may be necessary to replace it. Checking the condition of the boot on the steering tip
Now you need to check the connection between the hinge and the strut arm. To do this, your partner must rotate the steering wheel from side to side. If the gap at the connection exceeds the norm, the tip will need to be replaced.
In a similar way, you should check the tip on the other side of the car. All actions will need to be performed in the same order.
Next, you will need to open the hood to gain access to the rack and pinion mechanism.
The partner here must also turn the wheels from side to side. The car owner needs to monitor the condition of the mechanism. If necessary, tighten the fastening bolts and connections of the mechanism. The steering wheel may shake when braking for this reason. Diagnostics of the steering rack condition

Important! There is no need to tighten the nut that secures the mechanism to the base of the body too much. This can lead to broken studs, which are quite difficult to replace yourself.

The tightening should be 16-19 Nm.

Inspection of tie rod connections

Diagnostics of the tie rod connection to the steering rack

Also, attention should be paid to those places where the rack rods and steering rods are connected. If there are gaps in them, they will need to be eliminated

If this is not done, then the steering tips will soon have to be changed. Faulty tips create an increased load on the steering rack and can cause it to fail prematurely.

If the inspection does not reveal the reasons why the steering wheel is beating, then the reason may be in the wheels. They may have a hernia or lack balance.

Hernia on the wheel

In this case, the tires must be changed and balanced at a service station.

Why is the steering rack knocking?

70 16 127k

34 1 70k

A knock in the steering rack will make any driver nervous, since it can not only hit your wallet, but also literally hit you - driving with a possibly faulty steering wheel is not the safest thing to do.
Therefore, we need to figure out why the steering rack is knocking. It is necessary to understand exactly what a knocking steering rack means. The knock is usually superficial or internal and is heard from underneath the car. Vibrations are transmitted directly to the steering wheel. Light shocks are often transmitted when driving on uneven roads at speeds of up to 40-50 km/h.

Causes of steering rack knocking

If the steering rack is knocking, there may be several reasons:

The steering wheel fastenings are loose.
The plastic support sleeve has worn out and a backlash has formed.
Play in the bearings of the input shaft.
Due to wear, the gap between the teeth of the steering rack has increased, which led to play and a dull knock.
The clamping block is loose and knocks on the steering rack body due to wear and tear of the anti-friction lining.

VAZ steering
1
- ball joint of the tie rod end,
2
- swing arm,
3
- tie rod end,
4
- lock nut,
5
- rod,
6 and 11
- inner tie rod ends,
7
- ball joint pin,
8
- protective cap,
9
— ball pin insert,
10
— bolts securing the tie rods to the rack,
12
— steering gear mounting bracket,
13
— steering gear support,
14
— connecting plate,
15
— protective cover,
16
— locking plate,
17
— steering gear housing,
18
— coupling bolt,
19
— elastic coupling,
20
— rack,
21
— rack support sleeve,
22
— damping ring,
23
rubber-metal hinge,
24
— facing casing (upper part),
25
— steering wheel,
26
— steering position adjustment lever columns,
27
— steering shaft mounting bracket,
28
— facing casing (lower part),
29
— intermediate steering shaft,
30
— protective cap,
A
— surface of the ball joint housing,
B
— surface of the swing arm.

One of the most common causes of steering rack knocking is loose fasteners. Bolts and nuts can periodically become loose, resulting in play and increased vibration. The problem can be quickly solved by tightening the fasteners.

Another common cause is damage or delamination of rubber casings. As a result of a leak in the seal, dirt quickly accumulates in the mechanism, which can cause the sliding support to fail.

It is important to determine where the knocking is coming from . While driving, it may seem that the steering rack is knocking, but the problem could also be in the tie rods or steering tip. By the way, you can determine that the tip is to blame by looking at the torn boot.

How to diagnose steering rack knocking

If you decide to find out the reason for the knocking of the steering rack without visiting a service station, then an assistant will come in handy. What to do:

turn off the engine, put the car on the handbrake, put your partner behind the wheel;
crawl under the car in the area of the steering rack, command a friend to turn the steering wheel;
try to understand where the knocking is coming from;
inspect the boot to see if there is any damage or leaks (if there is, most likely the reason for the knocking is in that place).

Is it possible to drive if the steering rack is knocking?

How the steering rack knocks and how to check it: video

You can drive with such problems for a short time. But it is important to know what will happen if the steering rack knocks. After all, some motorists drive up to 40,000 km with this malfunction without knowing the consequences. When the steering rack knocks, it is quite dangerous to operate the car, this can lead to loss of control while driving!

A knock on the steering rack is characteristic, although many people confuse it with malfunctions of other suspension elements. If the problem is in the seal, then the knock will be loud, and the vibration will only be slightly transmitted to the steering wheel. If the elastic coupling is faulty, then you will immediately understand how the steering rack rattles. The sound will be dull, but the vibration will be very audible on the steering wheel.

How to protect the rack from knocking

To avoid steering rack malfunctions and prolong its life, you should give up reckless driving through potholes on turns, if this is practiced. The habit of sharply accelerating and braking at the last moment is also very harmful to the steering rack. This happens because if the front drive wheels are loaded with traction or braking torque, then impacts from bumps coming to the steering wheel become much more sensitive.

Often the steering rack becomes unusable due to careless parking. Using a curb as a bumper results in high loads on the wheel at an angle of 45 degrees. A deadly shock is transmitted to the steering mechanism and provokes chipping of the gear.

Regular preventive inspections, replacement of loose parts and damaged boots will help extend the life of the steering rack. This is why some drivers regularly face steering gear repairs, while others drive quietly for years.

How much can a knock in the steering rack cost?

If the steering rack has not been saved and needs to be replaced, it would be good to have an idea how much such a pleasure will cost. Naturally, the prices for spare parts for foreign cars are an order of magnitude higher than for domestic cars. But it is worth noting that the price range for steering gear parts among foreign cars is quite significant.

So, if the average price of a steering rack for a VAZ is about $130, then for foreign cars the price can range from 200 to 500 bucks. This is if you buy a steering rack without power steering, rods and ends. The price of a steering rack assembly is significantly higher - for a VAZ starting from $230, and the purchase of a steering rack assembly for a foreign car can range from $1000-1500 and more.

Of course, if you change the rack not yourself, but with the help of specialists, then their services are also not free and you will have to pay more for the knocking of the steering rack.

Causes of steering wheel beating when braking and turning

Steering wheel wobble at speed often begins due to the fault of the car enthusiast himself. He is inattentive to his duties and does not check the wheels before driving. The steering wheel often shakes at low speeds due to loose wheel bolts. The malfunction gets worse when braking, and the situation becomes extremely dangerous when cornering.

Steering wheel vibrations can also occur due to problems with the car’s suspension. The presence of backlash or failure of one of the chassis elements leads to imbalance.

First of all, determine whether the brake discs are faulty if the vibrations increase during a sudden stop of the car. Problems with the brake drum or disc are among the common causes. Parts become unusable, waves or other defects appear on them. Therefore, you should not overheat the brake elements too much (hold the brake pedal for a long time on a descent) or cool them suddenly (driving into a puddle).

If vibration increases when turning the steering wheel or during other maneuvers, a preliminary inspection is necessary. It will be impossible to find out the reason without this. First of all, check the rods and tips, hubs.

Why does the steering wheel shake? 7 main causes of steering wheel vibration.

Care and attention to the technical condition of the car is our direct responsibility. And it doesn’t matter how we feel about it, whether it’s a “workhorse” for us, a means of transportation or a luxury item. First of all, its serviceability

- this is our
safety
.

And one of the reasons to pay serious attention to your car is the vibration of the steering wheel when driving, or, as experienced drivers say, the beating of the steering wheel. It is expressed in completely different ways and at different speeds, for some at 30 km/h, and for others at 70 km/h. It doesn't really matter. What matters is the fact that there is something wrong with the mechanical part of the car. Let's look together at the seven main causes of this vibration and how to eliminate them. And I’ll tell you about another interesting reason, which is rare, at the end.

Snow and dirt in the wheel

The first and most common reason is snow freezing

or
dirt adhering
to the inside of the wheel rim. This usually happens in winter. Due to lumps of snow and dirt stuck to the rim, wheel imbalance occurs, which causes quite strong vibration not only in the steering wheel, but throughout the entire body. The help of specialists is not required here; it is enough to find an overpass and remove everything that is unnecessary from the disks using a metal brush. You can also remove each wheel separately and perform the same operation, as you wish. The only point that cannot be missed is that when removing with a brush or something else, do not dismantle the balancing weights, which are very often glued to the inside of alloy wheels, so that you do not have to go to a tire shop and re-balance.

Fastening a wheel or tightening it with bolts and nuts is perhaps the most dangerous reason why vibration can occur at low speed. Through her fault, we can crash if the fasteners fall off while driving and the wheel flies off the car. Therefore, if you feel vibration, do not be lazy and check whether all the wheels are tight. You can also contact the service, where specialists will do this using a special tool. After all, in addition to the risk of getting into an accident, poor wheel fastening can lead to rapid wear of suspension parts. And this, in turn, is not a timely expense.

Another factor that can cause the steering wheel to wobble is tire pressure. Vibration will appear at speed, although for this reason it occurs more often throughout the body. The steering wheel is almost not noticeable. If there is a difference in pressure in the wheels, the car will also pull to the side. In other words, you will keep the steering wheel straight, and the car will drive either to the left or to the right. This can be solved by simply equalizing the pressure at any gas station, tire shop, or wherever there is a tire inflation hose.

Wheels, like tires, although they have an ideal appearance, and even on rolling machines their shape is absolutely ideal, unfortunately, they have different densities of the material from which they are made. For example, the density of the alloy in the disk may differ in different places, which in turn will add or decrease weight in this place. The same is true with tires. Thus, when assembling the wheel, we get an imbalance caused by different weights in different places of the wheel as it rotates. Which in turn will lead to vibration in the steering wheel at speeds of approximately 80 km/h. This can be corrected by balancing the wheels at a tire shop.

Although roads in big cities are getting better, this is not happening everywhere. And here and there we come across potholes, potholes and holes into which we drive with our wheels, thereby damaging either tires or wheels. And it happens that both of them happen, so much so that it is no longer possible to restore them. So, after such damage, strange vibrations appear, which can also manifest themselves both in the body and in the steering wheel. To determine this, it is necessary to remove the wheels and conduct a visual inspection of the rim for dents and deformations. But more accurately, this can be seen on a balancing machine in a tire shop, when the wheel rotates. There you can clearly see whether the disc is hitting or whether the tire itself is bent. Since the tire has a metal cord inside, with a strong impact it breaks and a lump or hernia appears on the wheel, as a result of which the rubber is deformed and becomes egg-shaped. This can be corrected in this way: replace the tire and roll the disc on a rolling machine.

Operating a car is, of course, an individual thing. The more carefully we drive, the longer our car will serve us. But sooner or later, running parts and assemblies begin to wear out. And this, in turn, is also one of the reasons for steering wheel vibrations. Tie rod ends and rods, wheel bearings and steering rack. As soon as wear and play appear in the suspension, it begins to transmit to the steering wheel all the unevenness and defects of the road surface on which we are driving, thus creating steering runout. And also causing vibrations in the body. The solution to this problem is diagnostics and repair of the chassis and steering.

Vibrations when braking

Since front disc brakes appeared, the list of causes of steering wheel vibrations has been supplemented with one more. Often the cause of this malfunction is aggressive driving (fast acceleration and sharp deceleration). By squeezing the brake pedal at high speed, we heat up the brake disc to such an extent that it takes the shape of a figure eight. Brake pads begin to follow the shape of the disc when braking. Vibration occurs in the wheel, which is transmitted to the steering wheel through the steering. This is how we get the steering wheel beating when braking. This vibration is also accompanied by beating of the brake pedal. In very rare cases, a brake disc may burst due to severe overheating, which will lead to the wheel jamming, the car will lose control and an accident may occur. This type of vibration can also be caused by a worn wheel bearing. Due to the play that occurs when it wears out, a similar vibration of the steering wheel occurs. The solution to both situations is to visit a car service center and have it repaired.

And, as promised, there is one more reason that very few people know about!

Factory defect of stamped discs!

Rejection of stamped (iron) disks

It doesn't happen that often, but it does happen.
I encountered this from personal experience. After many attempts, one person will get rid of steering wheel vibration. In which he did absolutely everything from the above. He was asked to replace his new, imported, iron, IDEAL
wheels with cast ones.
And, lo and behold, the steering wheel vibration disappeared
! What was it? He asked after that. Here's what! At the disk manufacturing plant, apparently something happened to the equipment and during the production of the disks, the mounting holes shifted 3-5mm to the side! Thus, the wheel on the balancing machine looked ideal and was also perfectly balanced, but when placed on the car, it was shifted to the side by bolted connections and began to jump when moving, causing the steering wheel to wobble, and given that all 4 disks on his car had such a defect, then and the vibration was noticeable not only in the steering wheel, but also in the body.

I hope the article was useful!

Good luck to everyone on the roads!

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“However”... “However”

Faulty wheel bearings, loose, worn or damaged suspension parts (bushings, bushings, springs, struts/shocks, tie rods/tie rod ends) can also cause the steering wheel to vibrate when braking.

Vibrations from loose or worn wheel bearings are usually felt in the steering wheel when braking and turning at the same time.

Also be aware that, for example, a faulty wheel speed sensor can send misinformation to the car's computer, which mistakenly activates the anti-lock brake system even when braking smoothly at low speed on dry, smooth pavement.

Attention: the steering wheel should not vibrate when braking! To avoid major and costly repairs, have your brakes and braking equipment inspected when your vehicle is undergoing regularly scheduled maintenance or any repairs.

What to do if the steering wheel shakes at low speeds or when braking?

A problem that has become widespread is that the steering wheel shakes at low speeds or when braking.
What is the problem with such an unpleasant phenomenon that makes the driver panic? Newbies panic, count money and wait for news from their auto mechanic. But is it worth worrying about this problem, is it possible to solve it yourself and how much will it cost if you contact a service center?

The steering wheel shakes at low speed, this is already in a critical situation, when a breakdown in the steering mechanism has already occurred. If you notice a similar phenomenon at low speed or when braking, then you should think about it. Continued use of the vehicle may result in even more expensive repairs.

About the rake

Why does the steering wheel shake at high speed?

Steering wheel wobble at high speed occurs mainly due to the wheel balancing curve. Vibrations begin after tire work or tire replacement.

The steering wheel shakes not only on Soviet/Russian car models. Cool foreign cars also suffer from this. There are simply no perfect tires and wheels. When driving at high speed, inertia occurs, which is transmitted to the steering wheel and, as a result, beating.

Balancing is an event aimed at shaping and distributing the weight of a wheel across all zones and points. Weights are attached to the disks.

Incorrect balancing can be determined by a known method. Accelerate on a flat road up to 80 km/h. Then listen carefully. If vibrations increase, take the car to a wheel alignment.

Incorrect balancing often leads to the following consequences:

wheel tires wear out unevenly;
steering wheel vibration increases;
the operation of suspension parts is disrupted;
The wheel bearing deteriorates.

Having found out why the steering wheel shakes at speeds above 70-80 km/h, the driver must begin to correct the problem. Causes may also include deformation of tires or damaged rims.

Steering wheel wobble when braking

The appearance of such vibration and beating of the steering wheel when you press the brake pedal indicates deformation of the wheel brake discs and improper wear of the brake pads. In this case, you must either inspect the brake discs yourself, or contact a service center to perform the appropriate diagnostics. This is quite often noted in cases where, after a series of sharp braking, the car got into a puddle, a sudden cooling of the brake disc occurred, which moved to the side or pronounced scale appeared on it. The repair will consist of both grinding the wheel rims and replacing them with new, serviceable spare parts.

Pads

Next, we inspect the brake system, namely the pads. Since the steering wheel controls the front wheels, we look at the condition of the pads on them. Why does the steering wheel vibrate when braking in this case? The pads wear out a lot. The friction material wears down to the linings, and then the metal part rubs against the disc. As a result, the steering wheel vibrates when braking.

The VAZ-2110 is equipped with a reliable braking system, but it may also require repairs if consumables are not replaced in a timely manner. The pads need to be changed every 20-25 thousand kilometers. If you have an aggressive driving style, divide this figure by 2. After installing new pads, run it in - brake smoothly and without jerking for 200 kilometers. This is necessary so that the new material gets used to the working surface. Remember that the front pads wear out several times more often than the rear ones.

Wear can be determined by the grooves: when the pads have worn down to them, they need to be replaced. Well, if the friction material has worn down to the metal linings, urgently buy pads, since during the next braking the caliper may simply jam and the car will skid. The replacement is also indicated by a characteristic creaking noise when braking. Sometimes this happens due to poor friction material or when water gets on its surface. After washing the car, thoroughly dry the brakes by briefly pressing the pedal.

Summary

If you study the malfunctions, you can derive a small rating of the prevalence of causes. So, if the steering wheel of a VAZ-2114 shakes at low speed, then in the first place are problems with the integrity of the tires and rims. For many, vibrations were caused by a hernia or a crooked wheel. Then there are breakdowns in the suspension and steering mechanism. But often the problem can be solved by a simple visit to a tire shop. And to eliminate this situation, you should brake well before each large hole and be careful when passing railway tracks. A bump on the sidewall of a tire cannot be restored.

After using the car for a long time, many drivers stop noticing the steering wheel vibrations that occur. But sometimes such beating is a consequence of vehicle malfunctions, and if they are not corrected in a timely manner, driving safety can be greatly reduced.

Symptoms of a problem

Competent drivers know that power is transmitted to the wheels through a spur or helical gear, which interacts with the rack. Backlash in the rack is eliminated using pressure springs. When there is a knocking sound from the steering mechanism, which is noticeable when hitting an obstacle or driving over uneven surfaces, it is necessary to adjust the rack.

Some VAZ 2114 drivers do not know that play and creaking in the rack can be eliminated; they believe that it is impossible to tighten the steering rack in a VAZ 2114 car. Adjustment helps to get rid of backlash and ensure high-quality control of the machine. It should be understood that incorrect adjustment of the VAZ rack can lead to poor steering rotation. This is caused by overtightening of the adjusting screw.