VAZ 2114: fog lights do not light up - 7 causes of malfunction

The manufacturing plant does not install fog lights on all VAZ 2114 vehicles, but only on those that have the LUX complex. But a place for their installation in the general electrical system is provided on all cars without exception. The mounting block also has sockets for their fuses. So the car owner can order the installation of PTF at a car service center, at a car dealership during the purchase, or do it himself if he has the skills to work with electrical equipment. It happens that the fog lights already installed on the VAZ 2114 do not light up. In this article, the reader will get acquainted with the PTF connection diagram and find out the reasons for non-working PTF

PTF connection diagram


The power source for the fog lights is the battery (3). The wire from the positive terminal of the battery is connected to a relay (4), from which four wires come out: in the diagram, positive potentials are marked with numbers 85 and 87. Two wires come out of potential 87, which are connected through fuses (2) with a current of 7.5 A in the mounting block to the left and right PTF (1). The wires in the relay (4) are connected through a single contact, and this is the reason why both headlights turn on and off at the same time, and if the relay fails, both headlights also do not work. The wire from the positive potential 85 is connected to button 5. The negative potential 86 in the relay is connected to ground. The button, in turn, is also connected to ground by contact A. The standard factory button has a backlit display, its wiring is closed to the positive contact B.

Methods for installing PTF on VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

Installation of fog lights can be done in several ways. Which one to choose, each car owner decides for himself, based on his capabilities and preferences. Let's look at the most common installation options:

  1. Buying a front bumper with PTF. In this case, the headlights are sold already mounted in the front bumper. As a rule, a part can be purchased without any problems at a car tuning studio and immediately installed and connected. The disadvantages of this option include high financial costs.

Buying a bumper with PTF installed is the most expensive option for installing fog lights on a car.

Buying a bumper with holes for PTF. With this installation method, you should purchase a bumper with holes for the lights and the headlights themselves with all the necessary elements (wires, relays, power button, etc.).

When purchasing a bumper with holes for fog lights, you will need to purchase the lights themselves and all the necessary components for connection

Self-installation of PTF is the most common installation method, since it requires minimal financial investment. The car owner only needs to purchase headlights with the necessary installation kit and facing elements.

The most common option for installing PTF is to purchase and then install a set of fog lights yourself.

PTF location diagram on a car

Before connecting the fog lights, it is important to install the devices correctly on the front of the car. This is done in accordance with certain rules, which clearly stipulate the location of the light source. On modern cars, the installation locations for fog lights are marked from the factory.

Basically, such lighting elements are installed on more expensive car configurations. If the headlights were not installed from the factory, then the places for their installation are closed with plugs

On modern cars, the installation locations for fog lights are marked from the factory. Basically, such lighting elements are installed on more expensive car configurations. If the headlights were not installed from the factory, then the places for their installation are closed with plugs.

Fog lights on the front of the vehicle must be installed in accordance with established regulations

Is it possible to install xenon in PTF

Many car owners seek to install xenon in fog lights, arguing their actions by increasing lighting efficiency. Is this really true? Let's figure it out. First of all, when installing xenon in standard PTF housings, focusing is disrupted, which is due to a different operating principle in contrast to conventional lamps. Since standard fog lights are designed to operate with certain lamps, they simply cannot cope with xenon. The result of such changes will be too much reflection in the reflector, the rays are refracted, the light becomes blurred. A well-known situation arises - the blinding of drivers of oncoming vehicles, which increases the risk of an accident. Installing xenon in PTF is far from the most successful solution and the effectiveness of such light is questionable, so it should be abandoned.

When installing xenon light in standard fog lights, focusing is disrupted, which leads to dazzling oncoming drivers

Useful video

You can glean additional interesting information from the video below:

If all of the above reasons have been checked, and none of them have been identified, then the problem is in the wiring itself. In this case, you should ring all the wires used in the fog lamp connection circuit, and also check the correctness of the connection itself.

This can be done using the diagram given at the beginning. In this case, special attention should be paid to the correct connection (to the required connectors) of the button and relay.

Both fog lights stopped working

Both fog lights stopped lighting, what could be the problem? Maybe I should look at the fuse?

Crap. Will we really get to the point where soon there will be topics like “the washer fluid in the tank has run out..what should I do??”

Fuse (in the cabin behind the milk pocket). Button connector.

Sometimes it's better to live.

100% fuse

relay look m.b. it kicked, but most likely the contacts were acidified

I'm so stupidly burned out. just replacing light bulbs

The fog lights stopped lighting along with the tidy. Moreover, the mileage display works. The tidy backlight (brighter - dimmer) also does not work((((Sadness((

I have already burned out 10-15 fuses (((The one under the steering wheel is on. I put it on the more powerful one, it burns out under the hood due to the dimensions.

I turned off the fog lights and the dash lights are still on.

The dash doesn't light up at all. And it doesn’t matter if there is a fuse or not. *((

Did you get into the wiring? Additional gavnetol sensors?

No, they didn’t do anything like that. Yesterday during the rain I think it went out, or after it.

There are a lot of reasons for the fuse. What exactly (on what part) does the fuse burn out? Are all relays alive and working? What electrical accessories have been installed on the car in the last 2 weeks? or related work that could create a precedent?

Nothing has been installed on the car for “a hundred years.” The fuse for the fog lights is on. Accordingly, the following happens: I start it, turn on the dimensions - everything is ok, well, almost)) the tidy does not work (tidy lights), I turn on the fogs and the fuse blows. Near and far are working!

Are the fog lights factory installed or did you install them yourself (I mean did you install the wiring yourself or did it all come from the factory)? Is the fog light relay working? (clicks at least)

Is the fuse for the instrument panel lights alive? (it can be combined with some other illumination, for example, the illumination of buttons or the interior light or something else)

The fogs seem to be original.

The fuse blows when I turn on the headlights. but the dimensions are on fire. Those. It's not even a matter of fogs. and in the tidy.

Many opinions and topics have been voiced on many forums regarding short circuits in the instrument panel (a lot of lyrics.

Correctly, the fog lights are made through the dimensions precisely through the snout, the fog lamps have their own fuse, and the dimensions have their own relays, and at the moment the dimensions are turned on, when the fuse burns out, are the fog lamps turned on or off? those. — turned on the lights, everything is fine, the fuse for the fog lights works, then you turn on the fog lights, does the fuse burn out? or so - you just turn on the headlights, the fog lights are turned off, and the fog light fuse still burns out?

what about the fuse? which I voiced - which is used to illuminate the tidy and often some other lighting in the cabin.

Side lights and lighting of instruments and devices do not light up, electrical problems

Thread starter Cesa, 11/14/2007, 10:35 am

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#1 Cesa

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Message added November 14, 2007, 10:35 am

The first frost arrived (-15 at night). The car started up in the morning without any complaints. I warmed it up properly so that the cabin was warm and set off. I drove about 3 kilometers, the lights of the instruments and devices in the cabin went out, and the outside dimensions disappeared. The low beam continues to work. He turned around and parked the car.

In the evening I looked and rang - fuses F10, F11 are intact. The button for turning on the dimensions and low beam is also intact. Low beam works. In addition to the dimensions and lighting, the fog lights and lights do not work. Pressing the brake is accompanied by illumination of the corresponding lights. The stove also works. I don’t understand what’s wrong? In Murzilka, the circuit couldn’t be simpler, almost a direct wire through the fuses. If the fuses are OK, then the fog lights should at least work (even if the lamp control relay is dead).

Maybe someone knows what the reason is? There is an option - a glitch in the connectors. But where and what are they?

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#2 IgorFS

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    Message added 11/14/2007, 01:19 pm

    https://fs.vaz.ee/ Studio “Final Touch” individual vinyl, stickers, diode strips, installation and more..

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    #3 DarckAngel

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    Message added 11/14/2007, 01:45 pm

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    #4 aka rus

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    Message added 11/14/2007, 01:59 pm

    Nothing comes as cheaply as you want

    a car tuned/repaired in specialized workshops is a piece of iron, a car that you tuned/repaired with your own hands is a part of you

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    #5 TER

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    Message added 11/14/2007, 2:31 pm

    Most likely it is a fuse or a button. Or, again, the block that fits the button does not make contact.

    And if there are connectors, then apparently they are on the way to the nuclear reactor. There are such big pads.

    Russian tuning is senseless and merciless.

    Comrade! Believe! It will pass, both democracy and openness! And then State Security will remember your names.

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    #6 Cesa

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    Message added 11/14/2007, 3:24 pm

    Most likely it is a fuse or a button. Or, again, the block that fits the button does not make contact.

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