The instrument panel light on the Lada Kalina does not light up

Fuses and relays in Lada Kalina, electrical diagrams

If one or another electrical device has stopped working in Kalina: headlights, low or high beams, cigarette lighter, stove, turn signals and other devices, you must first find the cause of the malfunction, in particular, check the fuses and relays in the Lada. Kalina.

The first step in electrical circuits is to check the fuses, as they are the weakest point in the circuit and are usually the first to fail. Read on to learn about which fuses do what in the Lada Kalina, as well as where the relays are located and how to find the right one.

If you don’t want to get into an unpleasant situation when, due to a blown fuse, this or that device refuses to work and you don’t have everything at hand, it’s useful to make sure that you always carry a set of different ones with you.

For Lada Kalina, you can buy a similar kit at any auto store that sells spare parts for domestic cars. It takes up very little space, but its use in case of failure will significantly reduce the time for troubleshooting.

Main conclusions

Replacing the light bulbs in the dashboard of the Lada Kalina is not difficult and can easily be done with your own hands. You will need simple steps:

preparation of necessary tools and lamps;
dismantling the dashboard;
removing problematic elements and installing new ones;
Reassemble the panel in reverse order.

The entire process takes from half an hour for a beginner to 15 minutes for a more experienced user. Please share your tips and replacement methods in the comments.

Relay and fuse box

Lada Kalina fuses are located under the instrument panel, in the block to the left of the steering wheel. To access it, you need to open the cover, which has a built-in headlight switch. The lid is locked; if you pull it towards you from above, it will open and fold (its lower part is fixed to the axis).

F1 (10 A) - immobilizer, dashboard lamps and sensors, reversing light, turn signals. If any "gauge" on the instrument panel stops working or some or all of the indicators stop illuminated, check that fuse as well as the gauges or indicators themselves. If the white tail light does not come on when you put it in reverse, it could also be the fuse or the reverse switch.

The reverse switch is located on the gearbox; to change it, you will most likely have to remove the engine cover to access it. Located on the left in the direction of travel at the rear of the gearbox. If the turn signals do not work and this fuse is good, also check relay K5, the turn signal knob, its connector and the turn signals themselves.

F2 (30 A) - electric windows. If the power windows stop working, check this fuse and relay K2. If the fuse and relay are OK, there may be several reasons. First try pressing the power window button and slamming the door. If the mechanism is “bitten” when lifting the glass, this may help.

Otherwise, you need to disassemble the casing and look at the mechanism. During disassembly, it is necessary to check the functionality of the gears and all components of the power window, including the motor brushes. It could also be in the power window module. It is located in the left rear door, if something is wrong, you will most likely have to replace this module with a working one.

F3 (10 A) - alarm.

If the emergency unit is faulty and this fuse is good, check relay K5. If the left or right turn indicators are on and stay on even when the ignition is off, this is a manufacturing defect. In this case, the body electronics control unit must be replaced. This can be done at official car dealerships.

F4 (20 A) - wiper, heated rear window. If the wipers do not work and this fuse is good, also check relays K4 and K6. The problem may be in the windshield wiper motor or its mechanism. Check the wiper switch and its connector.

If the rear window heating does not work, check fuse F8, the heater leads, their contacts, as well as the contacts of this fuse and relay K6. This could also be due to poor contact with the case. The mass of the harness is connected to the body under the torpedo. If the contact is poor or oxidized at this stage, this can also cause problems with the correct readings on the panel instruments.

F5 (25 A) - heater, electric power steering, windshield washer. If this fuse and relay K4 are working and the stove does not work, then it could be in its electric motor (brushes) or the ignition button, as well as in its contacts. If the electric power steering does not work, this fuse and fuse F31 are working, so it is better to contact a workshop, since it will be difficult to find and fix the fault yourself.

F6 (20 A) - sound signal.

If this fuse and relay K8 work, but the signal does not work, check the horn itself. It is located under the front bumper near the radiator. Sometimes just turning the tone control screw is enough. The location is inconvenient as water can easily penetrate into it; alternatively, you can reinstall it at a higher place or install another horn that is less sensitive to water and humidity.

F7 (10A) - LCD indicator on the dashboard, brake lights, interior lighting. If the brake lights do not work, check the fuse. If it is not damaged, check that the brake light switch, located at the base of the brake pedal, is a round piece with two wires connected to its terminals. In this case, replacement will help. Costs about 100 rubles. Also check the taillight bulbs. If the brake light does not turn on, the bulb is most likely burnt out. If both signals are off, the problem is most likely a relay, fuse, or circuit breaker.

F8 (20 A) - rear window resistor. If the rear window does not fog up when the heater is on, check this fuse, relays K4 and K10, and fuse F4.

F9 (5 A) - lamps of the required size, lamp in the glove compartment. If the right side does not work - the front right and rear right lights do not light up, check this fuse and the lamps themselves.

F10 (5 A) - left-hand side headlights, indicator light on the instrument panel, license plate light. Similar to the previous one.

F11 (7.5 A) - rear fog lights.

F12 (7.5 A) - right low beam, right headlight leveling motor. F13 (7.5 A) - left low beam, left headlight range control motor. If one of the low beam headlights does not light, check one of these fuses as well as the bulb itself. If both headlights do not work, check the serviceability of the light switch, its connector and the lamps themselves (it also happens that both burn out at the same time).

F14 (10 A) - right high beam, high beam warning light on the instrument panel. F15 (10 A) - left high beam lamp. If the high beams do not work, also check relay K7. If it fails, replace it. In addition, it could be in the lamps themselves, in the wiring, in the high beam switch and in its connector.

F16, 17 (10 A) - front fog lights.

F18 (15 A) - heated seats.

F19 (10A) - ABS. If the fuse is good, but the ABS does not work, then most likely one of its mechanisms has stopped working. If the ABS warning light on the instrument panel is on, one of its elements has failed. This is necessary to diagnose error codes and eliminate the cause.

F20 (15 A) - cigarette lighter. Frequent problems with the Kalina cigarette lighter can be caused by its non-standard configuration. When connecting various connectors, proper fastening does not occur, so short circuits may occur, as a result of which the fuse fails. Alternatively, you can install an additional connector or use a splitter with 12 V outlets.

F21 (10 A) - gearbox reverse lock.

F22 (15 A) - alarm control unit.

F23 - reserve F24 - reserve F25 - reserve

F26 (25A) - ABS. Same as F19.

F27 (5 A) - spare F28 (7.5 A) - spare F29 (10 A) - spare F30 (20 A) - spare

F31 (50 A) - electric power steering. If the steering wheel is tight, check this fuse and fuse F5. If the cause of the problem cannot be determined, contact a car repair shop, as steering is a serious safety issue. Maybe something with the control unit or wiring.

Preparation

Before you start taking immediate action, you should prepare. You will need the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver (long and short);
pliers or narrow-nose pliers;
set of light bulbs.

It is recommended to purchase a complete set of 5 lamps at once. The dashboard of the Lada Kalina uses baseless incandescent lamps powered by 12 V. The factory backlight is soldered with antennae to the contacts of the sockets, and they cannot be disassembled. Therefore, you need to buy both lamps and new cartridges, otherwise you will have to run to the store again. The short blade screwdriver should be magnetized to prevent the mounting screws from falling under the dashboard during removal.

Relay location

The relays are located in the same block as the fuses.

K1 - headlight washers. If the washers stop working, but this relay is working properly, check their injectors. It happens that they become clogged or damaged.

K2 - electric windows. Check this relay together with fuse F2. See F2 for troubleshooting.

Short circuit - starter relay. If you turn the ignition key and the starter does not turn it, it could be due to this relay. Check its contacts and clean if necessary. Next, you need to check the battery terminals for reliable contact between them, and clean if necessary. Also check the contact group of the ignition switch; there may be no contact.

K4 - add rear window heating relay, heater switch, wiper and washer switch.

K5 - turn signal and hazard warning relay switch. If the turn signals or hazard warning group do not work, check this relay along with fuses F1 and F3.

K6 - windshield wiper relay. We check together with fuse F4.

K7 - high beam relay. Check together with fuses F14 and F15.

K8 - sound signal. We check together with fuse F6.

K9 - fog lights. Check together with fuses F16 and F17.

K10 - heated rear window. Also check relay K4 and fuses F4 and F8.

K11 - heated seats. Also check fuse F18.

K12 - reserve.

Power fuses

The main power fuses and the diagnostic connector are located under a cover next to the cigarette lighter.

We hope this article helps you solve your electrical problem. Carry spare fuses and, if possible, relays just in case, so you don't have to look for them at the worst possible time or during dealership closing hours.

You can also read about Lada Grant fuses, if you have such a model in your fleet.

If you have questions about electricity or history, you can write them down in the comments.

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Instrument panel backlight does not light up

First, I would check the voltage at the instrument cluster light dimmer, input and output. A simple two-wire light bulb. If there is no voltage (obviously with the light on), then connect the regulator to whatever source it comes to. You can look for a bad contact until it turns blue, and if it is restored, current will flow in two parallel lines without any damage to the wiring or current consumers.

With us from 05.12.10

to Auto Vovan: I only support one thing: check the dimmer.

Everything else is fraught with a short circuit in order.

to RDA58: I recommend just soldering the device.

With us from 04/09/11

But before soldering, I would make sure that the voltage is getting to it. And if we use it from anywhere, it won’t threaten anything.

With us from 04/09/11

The instrument panel circuit fuse is good, but there is voltage on it, check and write, then let's go look for a further break and please don't be silent without you, no one will help you!

With us from 05.12.10

Auto Vovan: And if we give an advantage somewhere, it won’t threaten anything. #

There are many options where the plus is lost. This is according to the simplest scheme (power source - light switch), supplying power from another source to the switch does not threaten anything.

In a car everything is much more complicated. By supplying energy from the outside, it is quite possible to inadvertently power something else.

With us from 04/09/11

We're probably worrying for nothing here; the author of this issue doesn't even care.

With us from 02/05/11

ad Auto Vovan: We hope you will leave a review.

With us from 03/07/12

When the lights are turned on, the hallway lights and the furnace controller lights turn on and off immediately, then every time the lights are turned on. For what reason to look?

With us from 05.12.10

a Sanek_89: Look at the broken contacts of the instrument connectors. You may need to pay for your order.

With us from 05.12.10

maksik2: please tell me what to do, the backlight of the speedometer, tachometer and turn signals on the instrument panel has disappeared and at the same time the acoustic signal of an unfastened seat belt has disappeared, #

Start by checking the fuses.

With us from 02/05/11

a Sanek_89: Check the fuse and contacts of the device itself. Start by checking the fuse box.

With us from 07/01/12

to Messir: I checked the fuses, everything was intact, I disassembled the panel, cleaned it after that, the light bulbs sometimes come to life, but not for long

s1986pa: Hello everyone, the backlight of the device and other buttons has turned off. I turn off the size, wait a little, then turn on the size, the backlight turns on for a couple of seconds and what is there goes out again. #

Same. Unreliable contact in the fuse block (the fuse itself) or in the input connector of the device at the transition between it and the board.

The forum is not an expert commission. All opinions and advice are advisory in nature. Responsibility for any repair decisions made lies entirely with the user.

With us from 12/29/14

WHERE DO I LOOK FOR THEM?

With us from 12/29/14

what is the name of this fuse

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CarFrance.ru "Lada" 2114 "Electro" Why did the dashboard backlight on the VAZ-2114 disappear: does it work and does not turn on?

Step-by-step replacement instructions

Replacing light bulbs is not difficult. In order to remove the cartridges, you need to turn them half a turn counterclockwise. Procedure:

remove the burnt out lamp. You can do it with your bare hands, but more often you carefully grab the cartridge shank with narrow pliers and easily turn it counterclockwise;
insert a new lamp into the socket;
install the cartridge into the socket by turning it clockwise.

New Lada: 8 valve engine Lada Kalina characteristics, dynamics, fuel consumption

Advice! Experienced users recommend changing the entire set at once in order to know exactly when to start using it. Having to repeat the entire procedure a week later because a nearby light bulb has burned out will not make anyone happy. In addition, all lamps will have the same brightness, which will provide uniform illumination of the panel. If this option is not suitable, you can arm yourself with a tester and check the lamps for functionality. After this, the burnt-out copies are replaced.

Why did the instrument panel illumination disappear on the VAZ-2114: does it not work and does not light up?

Recently, it has become fashionable to install LED lighting for the VAZ dashboard with your own hands. In addition, not all motorists correctly connect it to the on-board network. This can cause the lights to go out at the most inopportune moment. So, it’s worth checking the contacts of the entire backlight circuit.

There were cases when all the light bulbs burned out at the same time due to impacts. In this case, you need to look for a fault in the wiring, you can insert it again!

The same goes for the standard incandescent bulbs that come with the car from the factory. Thus, the breakdown or burnout of one of the light elements can lead to the fact that the entire backlight stops working. If you play the entire circuit using a tester, you can easily find an open circuit.

The ugliest and most difficult element of a car to test is still the wiring.

So, a broken wire can cause the instrument panel lights to stop receiving power and, as a result, not turn on.

To troubleshoot the problem, you need to use a multimeter to test all the wires responsible for lighting the car. So, any, even minor, break in the wire can cause the light in the dashboard to go out.

Oxidized contacts in the mounting block.

Oxidized wire strips can be another cause of failure.

As a result, there will be no contact and not only will the light on the dashboard not light up, but the other indicators located here may also fail. To troubleshoot the problem, you will need to disconnect the wiring block on the fuse block and the separator panel itself. Next, clean the contact group and reconnect everything. If everything worked, the reason was found.

Safety block

Another important element that can rarely fail is the mounting block.

Consequently, burnout can occur directly in the branches of the block itself or in the landing socket. To eliminate the malfunction, you will need to disassemble the part from the car and sequentially check it with a tester.

Many mechanics diagnose directly without removing the fuse. But only professionals can do this, and an ordinary car enthusiast will have to remove the product. However, if the mounting block is "dead", the element must be replaced, as it is almost impossible to repair.

Check the fuse contact group for malfunction.

The board is damaged

Repair and diagnostics of instrument panels.

The worst thing that can happen, and what every driver fears, is a fire in the dashboard, or rather the control card.

There is only one way out - replacement, but many motorists manage to resurrect such elements using a soldering iron. Although, as practice shows, in 50% of cases it doesn’t last long.

The main reason for card burnout is a short circuit. In this case, the wiring connection often burns, and the most vulnerable point is the backlight. If incandescent bulbs are installed they will be dark or black, but the LED backlight will burn out where the solder is on the board.

If the light in the instrument panel goes out, it is recommended to contact a car service center, where everything will be quickly and efficiently repaired or replaced. The main reason can rightly be considered a short circuit, and if the fuse fails or the pulse passes before it burns out, the consequences can be very different.

Experienced car enthusiast. I have an automotive education, that is, an engine repair mechanic. At the beginning of my career there was a VAZ-2107, then a BMW 5 Series, a Toyota Supra and a right-hand drive MARK-2. Now the family has 2 cars: Peugeot 407 and Dodge Challenger 2016. I study each car from “A” to “Z”. I have a lot of experience and try to repair each one with my own hands.

Installation of LED lamps

Most modern lighting devices have an LED design. LEDs are economical, consume little energy, and have high brightness. In addition, you can choose a different color shade of the backlight, which will diversify and decorate the dashboard of the Lada Kalina. However, you should remember some features of LED backlighting:

LEDs are longer than regular light bulbs, so the brightness may be excessive;
When installing, you must carefully monitor the polarity, otherwise the lamps will not light;
The brightness control has practically no effect on LED devices.

A significant advantage of LED backlighting is its long service life. Users who install such lamps forget about the need for replacement for several years. The only condition for operation will be the need to cool the ICE devices, since when heated above 80° they lose their brightness and quickly consume their resource.

Many car owners, especially tuning enthusiasts, prefer to use LED lamps to replace conventional lamps, which illuminate the dashboard of the Lada Kalina much brighter. For such an event, both diodes are used, which are inserted into the so-called sockets intended for ordinary lamps, and LED strip. The latter is simply glued around the perimeter of the instrument panel.

The process of replacing LED lamps itself is carried out according to a similar scheme, which we previously analyzed. The only thing you need to do before starting work is to cut off the tip of the diode a little. The diode must be cut down very carefully so as not to damage the luminous element. If the cut is not made, the diodes will not produce scattered light, that is, the luminous element will illuminate only one point.

[Closed] Solved: Dashboard backlight does not light up.

Topic: Resolved: Dashboard lights do not come on.

I'll start like this. Previously, when I started the car, the dashboard was either on or off, or rather, everything except the turn signals and high beams were off (though the high beams were turned off, and when the high beams were on, the lamp went out.) When the key is turned, the indicators always light up properly. So I solved this problem by simply turning the windows over (I don’t know why, but it helped, the backlight turned on). Now turning over has stopped helping))) and I’m tired of the darkness on the dashboard. I removed the tidy, changed all the bulbs, they all work, checked. Checked all fuses, all are good. I checked the backlight dimmer, it was also working, I also connected the wires directly, the same garbage. Well, I don’t know what else. Tell me what it could be (((I don’t want to change the whole order(

2 Reply from Alevtina.Trofimova 2014-08-04 18:39:34

Alevtina Trofimova

Expert

Idle

Location: Selty, Ur
Registration: 08/04/2014
Messages: 169 Thanked: 58
Automatic: VAZ 21103

Re: Resolved: Dashboard lights do not light up.

there is the same garbage, I decided this way: there are covers behind the fuse block (now I don’t remember which one I removed), my terminal is responsible for the backlight, which dangles like a hole in the ice, and everything became OK.

3 Reply from kostya.ishekov93 2014-08-04 19:58:08

Re: Resolved: Dashboard lights do not light up.

You can also find out in more detail what this terminal looks like or something else)) Thank you very much for your answer

4 Reply from Admin 2014-08-04 19:59:47

Administrator
Administrator
Idle

Registration: 2012-02-20
Messages: 3,257 Thanked: 622

Re: Resolved: Dashboard lights do not light up.

5 Reply from klimashov.roman 2014-08-04 20:10:54

klimashov.roman
Connoisseur
Idle

Location: Kasimov
Registration: 04/21/2014
Messages: 737 Thanked: 142
Car: GAZelle 33023 dv 405.22, 2.4 16kl 140tsv

Re: Resolved: Dashboard lights do not light up.

100 pounds of some kind of brain-blocking rosin. My fuel level indicator did not work and the voltmeter only worked when hitting in order, and even then not always, of course, not at 10 but at 07, but the essence is basically the same for our cars, the contacts were soldered and tightened and everything became normal.

6 Reply from Alevtina.Trofimova 2014-08-05 05:00:37 (2014-08-05 05:04:26 edited by Alevtina.Trofimova)

Alevtina Trofimova
Expert
Idle

Location: Selty, Ur
Registration: 08/04/2014
Messages: 169 Thanked: 58
Automatic: VAZ 21103

The problem may be caused by a ground wire

Sometimes situations arise when the needles on instruments behave completely inappropriately, jumping sharply from the minimum to the maximum mark and vice versa. In the vast majority of cases, the cause of this malfunction is the lack of normal contact with ground. There is nothing difficult in fixing this problem. First of all, you should find the fastening of the ground wire connecting the instrument panel to the partition that separates the interior from the engine compartment. It can be detected by removing the car radio from its standard socket.

However, there is one caveat here. If an alarm was installed on the car, then the fastening of the mass wire could well be moved to some other place. However, as a rule, the car owner is warned about such actions. In most cases, the fastening of the mass wire is moved to the area where the driver’s left foot is located, placing it behind the interior trim.

By the way, a situation where the arrows on the instruments begin to “jump” can also arise after installing the radio. In order to do this, you need to unscrew the ground wire coming from the dashboard. It happens that it is then screwed in poorly, and subsequently, due to body vibration, the contact becomes unreliable. To solve the problem, just twist the wire normally. It is worth noting that doing this is not very convenient, so you will have to make some effort.