Tightening torques for threaded connections of the VAZ 2170 Priora car

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Adjusting the tightening torque of bolts for a 16 valve car

Tightening torque of connecting rod bolts KAMAZ 740

Adjusting the tightening torque is a simple process, and after reading the material and video in this article, you can handle it yourself. It is enough to tighten it once and then you will be able to do it yourself and at the same time you will be able to help your friends if necessary

It is important to adhere to the diagram for cars with a 19-valve engine and observe the timing

Required Tools

a set of keys;
a torque wrench (no need to buy it, it’s better to borrow it for a day or two);

Torque wrench

knob; rod compass;

Shtengel compass

Scheme

The pattern for tightening on a 16-valve engine differs from the pattern for an 8-valve engine, so we will present both one and the other so that you can compare them.

Just don't get confused when you install. In any case, before starting work, check the instructions that came with the car. Tightening with different torques on a 16 valve unit occurs in 2 circles with different torques, and then another 2 circles with a rotation of 90 degrees. Nothing is difficult, which means you can cope on your own.

Stages

In order for self-tightening of bolts to be completed successfully and to last for a long time, a number of simple rules should be followed:

It is better to use new bolts, since during operation they are under constant tension and lose their properties over time. There is no guarantee that the old bolt will not withstand the stress and will burst.

The length should not be more than 9.5 cm

It is not advisable to reinstall the gasket, even if it is in reasonable condition. Strictly observe torque when tightening. The sequence of tightening the bolts should be exactly the same as in the diagram for 16-valve power plants. Before installing the cylinder head, carefully inspect all parts for damage and deformation. If any are found, do not ignore them, but be sure to replace them. Often, small breakdowns lead to major damage, and sometimes even to the complete destruction of systems and mechanisms. Do not use tools of dubious quality and manufacture. This is especially true for a torque wrench.

By following these simple rules, you can guarantee the best tightening and a reliable tight connection.

Place the cylinder head on the block, first making sure that the crankshafts and camshafts are set to the top dead center (TDC) position.

Proper twisting

The tightening process itself takes place in 4 circles:

1st circle - moment 20 N m (2 kgf/m);
2nd circle - moment 69.4–85.7 N·m (7.1–8.7 kgf·m);
3rd circle - turn the bolts 90 degrees;
4th circle - another 90 degree turn.

As you can see, everything is simple. If you have any questions, watch the video. In terms of time, this work does not take more than twenty minutes, but it allows you to save a decent amount, which they will charge you at the service station.

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Installation

Place the prepared groups in place also through the top of the cylinder. Carefully check and replace the connecting rod bearings. Install the lower elements - covers, and secure with bolts.

This is due to the fact that a lot depends on the tightening torque: both the freedom of rotation of the crankshaft, and at the same time the tightness of the fit of the liners to the neck of this shaft. If it is weak, oil will leak out without proper lubrication, and if it is strong, it will jam and, again, insufficient lubrication. Based on these considerations, this value should be exactly 43.32-53.51N*m or another 4.42-5.46 kgf*m. Only this way and no other way. After this, you can perform complete assembly in reverse order.

Interesting video about Priora connecting rods:

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to urgently replace the gasket or change the cylinder head. Such work at a service station costs a lot and to save money, you can try it yourself. This work is not difficult, but requires care; the main thing is to observe the sequence and tightening torque of the Priora cylinder head of 16 valves.

Here you also need to know that the tightening sequence on 16 cl and 8 cl units is different, so you need to be careful. The torque on the 16 and 8 valve power units is the same and passes in four circles.

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Let's start to disassemble

Tightening torque of the cylinder head of a ZMZ 406 gazelle engine with a torque wrench

First, drain the oil and antifreeze. We remove the protective cover, the air filter with pipes, disconnect the ignition coil connectors, the throttle cable and the throttle assembly.

We remove the thermostat housing and simultaneously disconnect all the available connectors and pipes. We remove all the wiring that was in our way towards the battery.

We remove the generator. We unscrew the eight thirteen nuts holding the intake manifold and remove it. We unscrew all the bolts securing the valve cover, as well as the side engine support.

Remove the timing belt, camshaft pulleys and pump.

In three passes, so as not to deform the part, we first loosen and then unscrew twenty bolts of the camshaft bearing housing, the head is eight. Be sure to follow the sequence shown in the photo.

Remove the bearing housing. We remove the camshafts; there is a distinctive lip on the intake camshaft.

Also, in several passes, we first loosen and then unscrew the ten cylinder head mounting bolts. Be sure to follow the sequence shown in the photo.

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Engine tuning using connecting rods

Most young people who purchase a Priora are not satisfied with the factory parameters of the car. Many people strive to improve their car. Make it more powerful, more responsive and faster. This is called "charging" the engine. That is, as they also say, make tuning. This concept includes many different actions.

The most popular for such an operation are the so-called “sports” reinforced connecting rods, 131 mm long. They are included in the standard kit for improving the Priora engine.

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Tighten the engine bolts correctly

All my life I have been surrounded by cars! First, in the village, already in the first grade, I was rushing around on a tractor through the fields, then there was JAVA, then a penny. Now I am a third-year student at the Polytechnic Faculty of Automotive Engineering. I work part-time as a car mechanic and help repair cars for all my friends.

In the table below we have indicated the tightening torques for all threaded connections on the VAZ-2112 engine.

Tightening torque of threaded connections (table)

Detail	Thread	Tightening torque, N m (kgf m)
Engine
Cylinder head bolt	M12x1.25	The cylinder head mounting bolts must be tightened in four steps: 1 – to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgf); 2 – torque 69.4–85.7 (7.1–8.7 kgf); 3 – turn 90°; 4 – turn it 90° again.
Nut of the stud securing the intake pipe and exhaust manifold	M8	20,87–25,77 (2,13–2,63)
Tension roller nut	M10×1.25	33,23–41,16 (3,4–4,2)
Camshaft bearing housing stud nut	M8	18,38–22,64 (1,87–2,31)
Camshaft pulley bolt	M10	67,42–83,3 (6,88–8,5)
Accessory housing mounting bolt	M6	6,66–8,23 (0,68–0,84)
Nut of the stud securing the exhaust pipe of the cooling jacket	M8	15,97–22,64 (1,63–2,31)
Main bearing cap bolt	M10x1.25	68,31–84,38 (6,97–8,61)
Oil sump bolt	M6	5,15–8,23 (0,52–0,84)
Connecting rod cap bolt nut	M9x1	43,32–53,51 (4,42–5,46)
Flywheel bolt	M10x1.25	60,96–87,42 (6,22–8,92)
Coolant pump mounting bolt	M6	7,64–8,01 (0,78–0,82)
Crankshaft pulley bolt	M12x1.25	97,9–108,78 (9,9–11,1)
Coolant pump inlet pipe mounting bolt	M6	4,17–5,15 (0,425–0,525)
Muffler exhaust pipe fastening nut	M8×1.25	20,87–25,77 (2,13–2,63)
Nut securing the flange of the additional muffler	M8×1.25	15,97–22,64 (1,63–2,31)
Nut securing the clutch cable to the engine bracket	M12x1	14,7–19,6 (1,5–2,0)
Front engine mount bracket bolt	M10x1.25	32,2–51,9 (3,3–5,5)
Front engine mount bolt nut	M10	41,65–51,45 (4,25–5,25)
Nut of the bolt securing the left suspension support of the power unit	M10	41,65–51,45 (4,25–5,25)
Nut securing the bracket of the left suspension support of the power unit	M10	31,85–51,45 (3,25–5,25)
Bolt securing the rear suspension support of the power unit	M10x1.25	27,44–34 (2,8–3,47)
Nut of the power unit rear suspension bracket mounting bolt	M12	60,7–98 (6,2–10)
Bolt securing the oil receiver to the main bearing cover	M6	8,33–10,29 (0,85–1,05)
Bolt securing the oil receiver to the pump	M6	6,86–8,23 (0,7–0,84)
Oil pump mounting bolt	M6	8,33–10,29 (0,85–1,05)
Oil pump housing bolt	M6	7,2–9,2 (0,735–0,94)
Oil pump pressure reducing valve plug	M16x1.5	45,5–73,5 (4,64–7,5)
Oil filter fitting	M20×1.5	37,48–87,47 (3,8–8,9)
Oil pressure warning light sensor	M14x1.5	24–27 (2,45–2,75)
Carburetor mounting nut	M8	12,8–15,9 (1,3–1,6)
Cylinder head cover nut	M6	1,96–4,6 (0,2–0,47)

Measuring tool

Despite the fact that performing work according to the tightening rules requires a special approach, such a procedure will not take a lot of time.

The only thing required to perform such work is a torque wrench.

This wrench is used to measure the tightening torque.

You can get such a tool in any store, but its price is often steep and can sometimes reach 2,000 rubles.

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Let's move on to the cylinder block

We remove the pallet. Rotating the crankshaft as it is convenient for us, unscrew two bolts on each connecting rod cap. We use a TORX E10 head for this.

We take out the pistons along with the connecting rods. To do this, use the wooden handle of a hammer to press the connecting rod from below and lightly tap it to knock it up. We remove the old liners and buy new ones of the same size according to the markings on them. Here is another stone in AvtoVAZ’s garden, the owner has never climbed into the car from the interior or into the engine, but three pistons were of group “B” and one was “C”. It turns out that at the factory they re-sharpened one cylinder a little and simply put an enlarged piston there, no words. There are no options, we take group “C”, don’t sharpen the engine because of this. We will not touch the main liners either.

We buy a new piston group that does not bend the valves, connecting rods and connecting rod bearings.

Eliminating longitudinal play of the crankshaft

It was noticed on this motor. To eliminate it, replace the thrust half-rings. Standard and repair sizes are available. We take the first repair size, if they are too tight we sand them down a little. We unscrew the middle main bearing and gently push it with a screwdriver and move the half rings. The mark on it is in the form of three serifs, shown below.

When the half ring comes out a little, turn the crankshaft, it will push it out. There are two types of half rings: white at the front and yellow at the rear; the grooves on them should point towards the crankshaft cheeks.

We install them as we removed the new half rings; if they go in with great effort, you can grind them a little on a small abrasive stone, but not from the side of the grooves. Checking the play. We tighten the main bearing with a torque of 8 kgf*m.

Assembling the piston

There is an arrow stamped on the top of the piston; it should be directed towards the front of the engine. And there are marks on the connecting rod that should look the same way. Don't get confused!

We insert one retaining ring into the groove on the piston. We insert the connecting rod into the piston and, having lubricated the connecting rod and the piston pin with oil, insert it into place. Insert the second retaining ring. Although this operation seems simple, it will take some pains. We inspect the assembled structure; all retaining rings must be clearly in their grooves, otherwise a ring that has jumped out while the engine is running can cause a lot of trouble.

Cylinder head repair

We mark all hydraulic compensators with numbers using an ordinary clerical touch and put them away. An ordinary magnet will help you pull them out. We dry out the valves and remove the oil seals (valve seals), the valves into scrap metal, the oil seals into the trash. We clean all channels. We take the head for grinding, just in case. After washing it again with kerosene after sanding and blowing it with air, we begin to assemble it.

We arrange the freshly purchased valves in the sequence in which they will stand in the cylinder head and begin to grind in one by one. Lubricate the valve stem with clean oil and apply lapping paste to the edge.

We insert the valve into place and put a valve grinding tool on the valve stem. The stores sell a device for manual lapping, but since this is the twenty-first century, we are mechanizing the process. We take the old valve and cut off the rod from it, select a rubber tube for it of such a diameter that it fits tightly. The rod is in a reversible drill, one end of the tube is on it, the other is on the valve being ground in. At low speeds we begin to grind the valve, constantly change the direction of rotation and periodically press it to the seat or weaken the force. On average, the valve takes about twenty seconds. We take it out and wipe it. The valve is considered ground in if a uniform gray strip of at least 1.5 mm wide appears on the chamfer.

The same stripe should appear on the valve seat.

Video of manually grinding valves

For a sixteen valve head, everything is the same, only there are twice as many valves.

After lapping, all valves and seats are thoroughly wiped and washed with kerosene to remove any remaining lapping paste. We check for leaks. We tighten the old spark plugs and put all the valves in place. Pour kerosene and wait three minutes, if the kerosene does not run away all is well, otherwise we grind the valves on this cylinder.

We had to grind four valves again, after which the kerosene stopped flowing.

We stuff new valve seals.

We put the valves in place and dry them. Before doing this, lubricate the valve stems with clean oil. After lubricating it with clean oil, we put the hydraulic compensators in place and, covering them with a clean cloth, remove the head out of sight. We're done with the cylinder head.

Adjusting the tightening torque of bolts for a 16 valve car

It is important to adhere to the diagram for cars with a 19-valve engine and observe the timing

Required Tools

a set of keys;
a torque wrench (no need to buy it, it’s better to borrow it for a day or two);

Torque wrench

knob; rod compass;

Shtengel compass

Scheme

The pattern for tightening on a 16-valve engine differs from the pattern for an 8-valve engine, so we will present both one and the other so that you can compare them.

Stages

In order for self-tightening of bolts to be completed successfully and to last for a long time, a number of simple rules should be followed:

It is better to use new bolts, since during operation they are under constant tension and lose their properties over time. There is no guarantee that the old bolt will not withstand the stress and will burst.

The length should not be more than 9.5 cm

By following these simple rules, you can guarantee the best tightening and a reliable tight connection.

Place the cylinder head on the block, first making sure that the crankshafts and camshafts are set to the top dead center (TDC) position.

Proper twisting

The tightening process itself takes place in 4 circles:

1st circle - moment 20 N m (2 kgf/m);
2nd circle - moment 69.4–85.7 N·m (7.1–8.7 kgf·m);
3rd circle - turn the bolts 90 degrees;
4th circle - another 90 degree turn.

Let's start to disassemble

First, drain the oil and antifreeze. We remove the protective cover, the air filter with pipes, disconnect the ignition coil connectors, the throttle cable and the throttle assembly.

We remove the thermostat housing and simultaneously disconnect all the available connectors and pipes. We remove all the wiring that was in our way towards the battery.

We remove the generator. We unscrew the eight thirteen nuts holding the intake manifold and remove it. We unscrew all the bolts securing the valve cover, as well as the side engine support.

Unscrew the eight nuts and remove the exhaust manifold.

Remove the timing belt, camshaft pulleys and pump.

In three passes, so as not to deform the part, we first loosen and then unscrew twenty bolts of the camshaft bearing housing, the head is eight.

Remove the bearing housing. We remove the camshafts; there is a distinctive lip on the intake camshaft.

Also, in several passes, we first loosen and then unscrew the ten cylinder head mounting bolts.

Remove the cylinder head. All sixteen valves are replaced.

crank mechanism

This main engine unit consists mainly of the following groups:

Each part of the group has several additional elements. For example, each piston carries a set of O-rings, a connecting pin and pin retaining clips. The crankshaft has bearings and oil seals. The most interesting thing is the structure of the connecting rods.

The principle of operation of the mechanism

VAZ engines, like other cars, are based on explosive combustion of fuel. The piston creates a certain compression of the air-gasoline mixture, a spark from the spark generator ignites it, pushing the piston down, and the crank mechanism (CPM) converts translational motion into rotational motion. This occurs due to the special shape of the crankshaft. The mounting points of the connecting rods are located so that while the connecting rods pushing the pistons rise, the connecting rods pushed by the piston are lowered. And this process takes place in shifts.

Set of connecting rods "Priors"

These parts are collapsible. The main part is made of high quality metal. Only in the upper ring, where the piston locking pin fits, is an insert made of a different metal installed. In general, the connecting rod consists of the following parts:

connecting rod;
liner covers;
coupling bolts 2 pcs.;
special washers;
connecting rod bearing.

This is due to the fact that the liners have special grooves for the passage of engine oil. Due to the high rotation speed, this unit requires uniform and abundant lubrication. The slightest discrepancy between these grooves and the oil supply holes of the crankshaft will lead to a disruption in the flow of lubricant and, as a result, jamming of the engine.

Adjusting the tightening torque of bolts for a 16 valve car

It is important to adhere to the diagram for cars with a 19-valve engine and observe the timing

Required Tools

a set of keys;
a torque wrench (no need to buy it, it’s better to borrow it for a day or two);

Torque wrench

knob; rod compass;

Shtengel compass

socket heads.

Scheme

The pattern for tightening on a 16-valve engine differs from the pattern for an 8-valve engine, so we will present both one and the other so that you can compare them.

Stages

In order for self-tightening of bolts to be completed successfully and to last for a long time, a number of simple rules should be followed:

It is better to use new bolts, since during operation they are under constant tension and lose their properties over time. There is no guarantee that the old bolt will not withstand the stress and will burst.

The length should not be more than 9.5 cm

By following these simple rules, you can guarantee the best tightening and a reliable tight connection.

Place the cylinder head on the block, first making sure that the crankshafts and camshafts are set to the top dead center (TDC) position.

Proper twisting

The tightening process itself takes place in 4 circles:

1st circle - moment 20 N m (2 kgf/m);
2nd circle - moment 69.4–85.7 N·m (7.1–8.7 kgf·m);
3rd circle - turn the bolts 90 degrees;
4th circle - another 90 degree turn.

General rules for performing work, methods used

There are a number of general rules that must be followed when installing the block head:

It is important to strictly observe the tightening torque. For these purposes, a special tool is used - a torque wrench.

It is not recommended to perform this operation with regular keys; The head bolts must be pulled smoothly, jerking is not allowed. Since the tightening force on the last approaches is significant, extending the wrench arm with a pipe can simplify the procedure and ensure smooth, uniform tightening; Before installing the bolts, you need to carefully inspect the condition of the threads on them. There should be no dirt or foreign particles on the coils. The threads of fasteners should be lubricated with engine oil before tightening. But you should not pour grease into the holes for the bolts (especially for “blind” holes), since in the future it will not allow the fasteners to be fully tightened.

Despite the fact that each engine has its own characteristics of tightening the cylinder head, the general technology of this operation is the same. In general, two methods are used to tighten fasteners:

In several approaches, bringing the tightening force to the required value;
Tightening the fasteners to a certain force (in one or more approaches), and then tightening the bolts twice to a certain angle.

The tightening method is selected based on the type of bolts.

The first method is used when using non-stretching bolts (these are not used now, but they can be found on old cars). But often this type of fasteners requires tightening after a certain period of engine operation in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the cylinder head gasket. But such fasteners are allowed for reuse, and more than once.

The second method of tightening the block is relevant for most modern cars. And all due to the use of tensile bolts (the so-called TTY type).

Such fasteners, due to elastic deformation, are able to compensate for thermal expansion of the head and shrinkage of the gasket, but for this they need to be put into deformation mode (in fact, just stretched a little).

To do this, it is necessary to tighten the bolts twice to a certain angle. On some cars this angle is 45 degrees, on others it is 90 degrees.

But after the elements are put into elastic deformation mode, they will no longer be able to return to their original state, and therefore their reuse is not allowed due to the high probability of destruction.

crank mechanism

This main engine unit consists mainly of the following groups:

The principle of operation of the mechanism

Set of connecting rods "Priors"

connecting rod;
liner covers;
coupling bolts 2 pcs.;
special washers;
connecting rod bearing.