Braking mechanisms for the rear wheels of Lada Priora / VAZ 2170 / 2171 / 2172 / 2173 since 2007

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Replacing a caliper on a Priora car

To work on replacing the unit you will need: a gas wrench, a jack, a “14” head. Follow these steps:

  1. apply the handbrake;
  2. jack up the front;
  3. remove the wheels (because the parts need to be changed together for uniform braking);
  4. Use a gas wrench to gradually unscrew the bolts, going clockwise;
  5. remove the wheel;
  6. Turn the steering wheel first in the direction from which you are going to remove the caliper;
  7. use a head to unscrew the screws securing the guide;
  8. remove the braking elements together with the bracket;
  9. turn the steering wheel in the other direction, dismantle it from the other side.

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How much does a caliper cost on a Priora: standard part - article number and price

When buying a front braking element for a Priora, you have the option of buying it assembled or “naked” - without a special bracket.

  • Right (assembled). Catalog number 11180-3501012-20. Price – 3600 rubles.
  • Right (naked). Catalog number 11180-3501014-00. Price – 2,400 rubles.
  • Left (assembled). Catalog number 11180-3501013-50. Price – 3,850 rub.
  • Left (naked). Catalog number 11180-3501015-00. Price – 2,400 rubles.

The Priora caliper repair kit is available in two versions:

  • Riginal RG2108-3501410 – 800 RUR;
  • VAZ-2108 BRT 23R – 150 rub.

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Repair of rear wheel brakes on Lada Priora

The brake mechanism of the rear wheels is drum, with a two-piston wheel cylinder and automatic adjustment of the gap between the shoes and the drum

The automatic clearance adjustment device is located in the wheel cylinder.

The main element of the device is a steel split thrust ring installed on the piston with an axial clearance of 1.25-1.65 mm.

The thrust rings (two per cylinder) are inserted into the cylinder with tension, providing a shear force along the cylinder surface of at least 350 N, which exceeds the force of the brake shoe tension springs.

When the brake linings wear, the thrust rings shift under the action of the pistons by the amount of wear.

If the cylinder mirror is damaged due to mechanical impurities in the brake fluid, or due to corrosion (presence of water in the brake fluid), the rings may “sour” in the cylinder and one or even both pistons will lose mobility.

In this case, the cylinders must be replaced.

Replacing pads

The brake pads of the rear wheels must be replaced only as a set - all four pads.

Replacing the pads of only one brake mechanism can lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

Using a socket wrench (preferably a high hex head) 7, unscrew the two guide pins of the wheel.

Remove the brake drum.

If the drum cannot be removed, then, turning it evenly, use a hammer with a plastic tip (or an ordinary hammer through a wooden block) to strike the end of the drum.

Using a screwdriver, we remove the hook of the upper tension spring from engagement with the block.

Remove the spring

We remove the upper stops of the pads from the slots of the cylinder pistons and remove the spacer bar.

Using a screwdriver, pry the hook of the lower tension spring out of engagement with the block.

Removing the tension spring

Using a screwdriver, disengage the guide spring from engagement with the block.

Remove the front pad.

Having disconnected the guide spring from the rear block, lower the block

We remove the lever for the manual drive of the brake pads from the hole in the tip of the parking brake cable.

Straighten the cotter pin and remove it from the hole in the finger of the hand brake lever.

Remove the washer from your finger.

Remove the lever and remove the finger.

Install the manual shoe drive lever onto the new shoe in the reverse order.

Install new pads in reverse order.

To make it easier to assemble the spring guide with the block, we hook a wire or cord approximately 0.5 m long to the hook of the spring.

While tensioning the spring, insert its hook into the hole in the block.

Then we pull out the wire.

Before installing the drum, it is necessary to recess the pistons inside the working cylinder. To do this, press the pads with two mounting blades, leaning against the shoulder of the brake shield.

After installing the drum, press the brake pedal several times to set the pistons to the working position. Adjusting the parking brake.

Replacing the rear wheel brake cylinder

It is more convenient to carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. Remove the brake drum and upper tension spring.

We remove the upper stops of the brake pads from the slots of the cylinder pistons.

To make it easier to unscrew the brake pipe fitting, you can unscrew the bleeder fitting from the cylinder.

If the tube does not come off and there is no spare tube, you can first unscrew the two cylinder mounting bolts.

We pull out the cylinder along with the tube so that it can be held with a key.

Then, by rotating the cylinder and holding the tube with a wrench, you can dismantle the cylinder without damaging the tube.

Using a 8mm spanner, unscrew the bleeder fitting (the bleeder fitting can also be a 10mm spanner).

Using a special 10mm wrench, unscrew the brake pipe fitting.

We remove the tip of the tube from the cylinder hole

Using a spanner wrench or a 10mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the brake shield

Removing the cylinder

Install the new cylinder in reverse order.

After assembling the brake mechanism (including installing the drum), we bleed the hydraulic brake drive.

Replacing the rear wheel brake hose

Use a special 10mm wrench to unscrew the brake pipe fitting, holding the lower tip of the hose by the hexagon with a 15mm wrench.

We remove the lower tip of the hose from the hole in the rear suspension beam bracket.

Use a special 10mm wrench to unscrew the brake pipe fitting, holding the upper tip of the hose by the hexagon with a 15mm wrench.

We remove the upper tip of the hose from the hole in the body bracket and remove the hose

Install the hose in reverse order. We bleed the brake system.

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