Why does the whistle occur?
There are several reasons why the characteristic whistle-like sound occurs.
- Weak tension. The element slips, and this happens most actively at night. The increased intensity of the whistle at night is explained by the fact that the generator additionally works for lighting.
- Gradually the component is destroyed. The belt can dry out, causing its structure to be disrupted and it literally crumbles into pieces. The first signs are cracks, and then whole pieces break off. When moving, the pulley hits and slipping begins. Only replacement is required here.
- Although moisture gets on the belt very rarely and evaporates almost immediately, the connection can still whistle. In this situation, tension is required.
- The generator itself jams.
Tension adjustment
If you discover that the V-belt drive is not yet worn out, but is whistling, you must first check its tension. According to the book, its deflection with a force of 10 kg/cm2 (100 N) should be 10 - 15 mm. To put it simply, you just need to press it approximately in the middle with some force.
If the tension is correct, then the deflection will be 6 - 8 millimeters. If it is more, it needs to be tightened, if less, it needs to be loosened. And it's not just that he whistles. If the tension is weak, then the battery charges less well, and the drive wears out faster. If the tension is too strong, there is a risk of failure of the generator bearings and the belt stretches.
We carry out the necessary adjustments as follows:
- Loosen the generator mounting nuts from the bottom and top;
- By turning the adjusting bolt, we make the adjustment: - To increase the tension, turn the bolt to the right - this moves the generator away from the cylinder block; — To loosen, turn the bolt to the left - bringing the generator closer;
- Having hooked the key onto the mounting bolt, turn the crankshaft two turns and check the tension again;
- If everything is fine, tighten the fastening nuts.
Selecting a belt manufacturer
Today, choosing a manufacturer of a particular spare part can be quite difficult due to the fairly wide selection. But if we look at the statistics of many car owners and service stations, we can conclude that the highest quality belts for driving auxiliary units are:
- BRT - Balakovo Rubber Equipment, often installed from the assembly line
- GATES - often also a factory option
- Bosch - has a fairly wide range of products, including belts, and the quality is quite high
- LUZAR
- ANDYCAR
If we consider the most trouble-free belts, then according to statistics from surveys of motorists and service station technicians, we can conclude that the highest quality ones are produced by GATES and domestic BRT.
Video instructions for tensioning or loosening the alternator belt on a VAZ 2110-2112
To show everything clearly and clarify the picture, I decided to record a short video that contains instructions in an accessible form:
First, make a few turns and try to tighten the belt, perhaps this will be enough to prevent it from squealing. And it's quite easy to check. Start the car with the lights and other electrical devices turned on as much as possible (high beams, heated rear window, heater, etc.) If at this time the whistle is not heard, then the belt is properly tensioned.
But you shouldn’t forget about the constriction, and this shouldn’t be allowed. If you hear that a strange hum suddenly begins to appear from the side of the generator, most likely due to a tightened belt, the bearing is humming, then you urgently need to loosen the tension a little until the sound goes away.
Source
Dimensions
It is quite possible that you have selected the wrong alternator belt size for your 16 valve VAZ 2110. This often causes whistling. The correct size of the alternator belt for the 8 valve VAZ 2110 should be determined in advance, even before going to the auto parts store.
The sizes are different, and they are individual for each VAZ model.
If we talk specifically about the “ten”, then adhere to the following rules for choosing a belt size:
- In the absence of air conditioning and power steering, 742 millimeters is suitable;
- If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster, then the size will be 1115 millimeters;
- If an air conditioner is also present, then the optimal size is 1125 millimeters.
Some craftsmen regularly use original belts from other AvtoVAZ models - Priora and Kalina - to replace them when repairing their "ten".
Replacement with power steering and air conditioning
Replacing the VAZ 2112 alternator belt with power steering
If changing the alternator belt on a car without power steering takes only ten minutes, then on the contrary, in the case of power steering or air conditioning, as on the Priora, the procedure becomes noticeably more complicated.
VAZ 21124 replacement of alternator belt with power steering
The fact is that if power steering is installed on the car, then the location of the generator is already in a different place. The power steering pump is installed in its original position. The generator itself is moved higher in this case. In addition to the fact that on cars with air conditioning and power steering, the location of the generator has been changed, the belt itself also runs on a different axis. In this case, the part first passes through the crankshaft pulley, then the tension roller, the generator shaft, the pump shaft and again the crankshaft pulley.
Note. The replacement procedure on a car with power steering is complicated by the fact that the belt rotates around the left engine mount. Thus, in order to replace the part, you should lift the engine, and only then remove the chain.
Replacing the VAZ 211240 alternator belt with steering wheel
Let's begin the replacement procedure:
- First, loosen the generator belt;
- Unscrew the engine mount.
Note. The bolt of this very support should, in theory, fall down after unscrewing, but it is possible that its head will rest against the power steering pulley. If this happens, it's okay. You will need to unscrew the power steering pulley, then unscrew 3 bolts, remove the pulley and pull out the bolt.
- We lift the engine using a bottle jack (it should be installed through the oil drain hole, and a wooden block should be placed under the edge so as not to crush the edge of the crankcase);
- Remove the crankcase protection;
- Now take out the support nut;
- We pull the generator belt through the support;
- We remove the part.
Replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ 2112 with air conditioning
Installation of a new part is carried out in the same sequence. But before buying a new belt, you should know that the part must have 6 rivets. In addition, the length of the generator belt must be exactly 1115 mm. If such a chain is not commercially available, then it is recommended to install a Priora belt with air conditioning.
Performing tension
If there is no wear on the V-belt drive, but there is a whistle, first of all, check the tension level. We will not use complex terminology, but will simply advise you to press with some force on the belt in the middle.
If the tension is done correctly, then the belt will bend no more than 8 millimeters. If the deflection is greater, then the element will have to be tensioned, and if it practically does not deflect, the tension will have to be loosened.
The problem is not the whistling. Due to weak tension, the battery does not charge effectively, and the drive itself begins to wear out faster. Excessive tension can lead to damage to the alternator bearings and stretching of the belt.
Correct tension of the VAZ 2110 generator belt is performed as follows:
- Loosen the generator from the bottom and top. A nut is used for this;
- Turn the adjusting bolt and adjust the belt;
- If you want to increase the tension, the bolt is turned to the right. Thus, you move the generator away from the cylinder block;
- To loosen the tension, move in the opposite direction - to the left;
- Use a wrench to grab the fastening bolt and turn the crankshaft a couple of turns, then check the tension;
- If all is well, the tension is correct, the nut can be tightened back.
How to replace the Grant alternator belt
The replacement process is not simple and depends on the equipment of the car: whether there is a tensioner, air conditioning. In the latter case, you cannot do without a lift and dismantling the engine mount due to the air conditioning compressor clutch pulley.
For a Granta with air conditioning, for installation you will need to hang the wheel and remove one engine mount.
How to change a belt on a Grant 8 and 16 valve without air conditioning and tensioner
What you will need for work:
- a knife, if you just need to cut off an old part;
- crank or ratchet with head 13;
- long strong wire;
- flat screwdriver;
- partner – you can replace it yourself, but it’s easier with an assistant.
Step 1. Dismantling
The car is on a flat surface, neutral is engaged without the handbrake. Battery is disconnected.
If the old belt is not needed, we cut it in an accessible place and take it out.
If you need to save the old one, do everything up to step 3.
Step 2. Remove the generator mount
We approach the generator mount with head 13:
- we remove the lower bolt by 2-3 turns;
- Use it to completely unscrew the top bolt.
In this situation, we proceed to installation. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 3. Raise the part
Scroll the generator up. The top mount becomes higher than the bracket to which it is screwed.
We press the part to the engine. We fix it with strong wire. For example, we hang it from the cylinder head bolt.
Step 4. Install a new one
We pull the new one onto the pulleys.
The installation takes place in the position of the generator when it is pressed against the engine. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
We engage fifth gear, push the car back, pressing the belt against pulley 1 in the picture. This is where a helper will come in handy.
As soon as we put it on, we work in reverse order:
- unplug the generator;
- press it into working position;
- return the upper mounting bolt and tighten the lower one.
Replacing the alternator belt on a Grant with air conditioning
It's more difficult here. Step by step:
- we drive the car onto a lift or overpass;
- remove the tensioner;
- take off the front right wheel;
- we support the internal combustion engine and dismantle the pillow;
- change the required part.
What you need
- new belt marked 6РК 995;
- spanners 8, 19;
- socket wrenches 8, 10;
- Torx keys T20, T27;
- ratchet with extension and heads E14, 17.
Step 1. Tensioner
The car is on a lift or overpass.
Open the hood. Remove the terminals from the battery.
We find the tensioner, take out the spanners 19 and 8:
- 19 we put on the lead screw;
- 8 hold the locknut;
- we touch;
- Turn the lead screw clockwise to loosen the tension.
We remove the lock nut and loosen the tension. PHOTO taken from: www.zr.ru
We need keys 8, 10. Remove:
- central shield (numbers 1, 5, 7);
- right shield (number 2).
Remove the front right wheel. Using keys 8, Torx t20, t27, we dismantle the fender liner according to the diagram.
Step 4: Engine Mount
Getting ready to remove the engine mount.
Using a wrench or ratchet with an E14 head, unscrew the screws securing the support to the engine.
Use head 17 to unscrew the screws securing the support to the body.
We remove the support. Make sure the weight of the engine is securely resting on the crankcase support. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 5. Dismantling and installation
We remove the belt from the pulleys and rollers and pull it out.
We install the new one in the reverse order.
The final tension can be adjusted by adjusting the tensioner.
Replacement
We have already figured out how to tighten the alternator belt. But such measures are not always relevant. If the element is cracked, overstretched and no longer tensioned, then there is nothing left to do but replace it with a new one.
In fact, replacement cannot be called a complex procedure. Follow the instructions and everything will work out.
- Slightly loosen the bolt nut from the lower mounting of the car generator, as well as the tension nut.
- Loosen the tension of your belt further. You already know how to do this from the previous section, where we talked about tensioning the alternator belt.
- Move the generator towards the power unit, which will allow you to remove the belt from the crankshaft and generator pulleys.
- The next step is to install a new element. To do this, you will need a high-quality belt purchased from a trusted store. What exactly this part will be and what size it will be is not difficult to determine. But quality comes first.
- First, the belt is put on the crankshaft pulley.
- Now it goes to the generator pulley.
- At the last stage, you have to repeat the tension adjustment procedure. You already know very well how this procedure is carried out, so there should be no problems.
Replacing the alternator belt, replacing and lubricating the alternator belt tensioner roller VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
Replacing the alternator belt without power steering VAZ 2112
I began to notice that often, when the engine was started for the first time, the alternator belt began to whistle. I started watching the battery light on the dash, but it didn’t come on. I consoled myself that the humidity might have weakened the strap a little... A week passed when suddenly the power steering seemed to turn off for a couple of seconds. At first I thought the car had stalled, but no. I stopped, opened the hood and went straight to the alternator belt... And there were threads sticking out of it and one side was completely worn out. Apparently, the idiots from the service department who changed the timing belt “for free” replaced the alternator belt; one track did not fit into place. And they probably thought that he would drop by later. And this very path was eaten by the rollers.
I went to the car market, bought a new strap for 600 rubles (I didn’t know the prices and don’t know now, but I didn’t want to waste time looking for a cheap one or alternatives, and I wasn’t in the mood). I approached the seller: “alternator belt for two cars, 1.6 liter engine, 16 valves with power steering.” – 620 rubles. - Let's.
I looked online for instructions on how to replace the belt on 12s with power steering. I heard that there are some nuances, that it is necessary to remove the engine from the mount. I ran through the forums, printed out the main points and headed to the garage. Now after last night I say: “This is 3.14... if you don’t know, then don’t write your advice on the forum. If you have an 8th grade, then you don’t have to say that on a 16-valve with power steering everything is the same as on an 8th, you just need to remove it from the pillow.” Yes, everything is written clearly: here are the instructions that I found and to which it was signed “you just need to remove the engine from the mount.”
Bullshit, comrades!
We removed the adsorber and the reservoir with power steering fluid from their mounts so as not to interfere.
We unscrewed the lock nut with a 13mm wrench.
(photo from the Internet, a lock nut with a shackle where the hose from the reservoir with power steering fluid is attached to a clamp)
They started looking for the tension bolt, but there wasn’t one! Maybe someone has a VAZ-21124, but we searched all around without success. Moreover, on one of the forums, one of those discussing it also unsuccessfully tried to find this bolt, and another participant, foaming at the mouth, proved that the bolt was 100% there.
I will not dwell on the discussion of the forums and will continue to explain how we changed the strap.
So, 1) Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the nut securing the generator to the mounting plate. Now the generator can be pushed towards the engine, loosening the belt tension.
2) Then, having examined the rollers, one turned out to be very similar to the tension one, they tried to loosen it and that’s it! Loosen the TENSION ROLLER.
Now the strap has loosened even more and should come off the rollers with ease.
3) Now you need to remove the engine from the support. To do this, you need to unscrew 2 bolts.
4) Now we raise the engine. We lifted it with a regular hydraulic jack, sliding it under the crankcase. The engine mount will rise and the belt can be pulled out.
5) Now we insert a new strap under the engine support. And we begin the reassembly.
6) We clamped the tension roller in its extreme position (corresponding to the minimum belt tension).
7) The generator was also moved to the most extreme position (as close as possible to the engine).
Now the hard part is getting the new belt onto the rollers... The main thing is to wrap it tightly around all the rollers before pulling it onto the last one (we pulled it onto the tension roller). We lubricated it a little with WD40 to make it climb more confidently. Using 4 hands, using a hammer, a pry bar and a board, they threw the strap onto the tension roller. We suffered for 20-30 minutes.
It turns out that there is a special key that is used to adjust timing belts and generators. This is probably him:
I think it will greatly facilitate the process, but we didn’t have it and I learned about its existence later.
9) When the strap is on rollers, you can start tightening.
We did this: using the handle of a hammer, I pulled the tension roller with force and fixed it in this position. Then they tightened the bolt with the locknut, which was loosened and the generator was in its extreme position (closer to the engine).
In theory, it probably should have been done differently... Pull the generator as far as possible from the engine (tensioning the belt a little) and fix it first, and then work with the tension roller.
When starting the engine and releasing the gas (gas - throwing gas), the strap should oscillate and flop around a little. If at the same time it still does not whistle, then the tension can be left as is.
10) Next, we collect the remains: we put in place the adsorber, the reservoir with power steering fluid, screw the clamp to the bolt with a lock nut, and do not forget to put the chip on the adsorber in place.
So, conclusions and features of replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ with power steering
: 1) It is necessary to lift the engine from the support and remove/install the strap under the pillow. 2) The belt tension was adjusted (in my case) using a tension roller. NO tension bolt! 3) The main thing is not to overdo it with belt tension. 4) I saw disputes about the size (length) of the belt. I installed this one on my VAZ 21124 with power steering:
Replacing the alternator belt without power steering VAZ 2112
I was driving a couple of days ago for no apparent reason, a whistle coming from under the hood, I stopped, I opened the hood, everything was fine, I know that there cannot be a global breakdown, the car is technically sound and the timing belt was changed two weeks before this incident. I decided to turn off the engine after a couple of minutes, I started the car normally, it was running quietly as before, I wondered what it could be, when I arrived home, I looked at everything carefully, it turned out that the Alternator belt was slipping, the next day I went to the auto store and bought a new Belt for 250 rubles. Arriving home, the first thing I did was prepare the necessary tools: a wrench for “13”, a wrench for “10” and the belt itself. Everything is very simple: 1. Using a “13” wrench, loosen the generator mounting nut. 2. We turn the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10”; it loosens the tension of the generator drive belt. Now we try if the generator moves towards the cylinder block (move towards the engine), then remove the old belt and tighten the new one, and rotate the adjusting bolt in the reverse order. 3. And if the tension of the generator drive belt has not weakened, as in my case, then there is another bolt under the generator that prevents the generator from moving. We unscrew it with a key to “10” and move the generator towards the engine. The belt is now well loosened and can easily come off the rollers. One of the most difficult parts is tensioning the belt while getting into the rollers, so that after a couple of weeks it doesn’t start to creep. Once you are on the rollers, you can begin to tighten the belt and pull the generator as far away from the engine as possible. 1. Tighten the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10”; it will secure the tension of the generator drive belt. 2. Use a key set to “13” to secure the generator mounting nut. Now we start the engine and start degassing; this requires gas, for example, 3000-4000 thousand revolutions, releasing the gas to 500-1500 thousand revolutions, and so on for a couple of minutes. Then we turned off the engine, got out and looked at how our new belt is in the rollers and whether it is sitting too loosely (there should be no whistling) if it whistles, it means the generator is loosely tensioned. 3. Don’t forget to tighten the last bolt, which is located under the generator.
That's all, the alternator belt has been replaced with a “Dvenashka 1.5 16-valve without Gear”! It will take you about 30-40 minutes.
3. Replacing the generator belt tensioner roller and lubricating the tensioner roller on the VAZ 2110
Recently the generator belt tension roller began to rustle, and without thinking twice I went to the store to buy a new one.
Having removed the old video and twirled it in my hands, I was unpleasantly surprised. As it turned out, it spun much better than the new one, but it did it quite loudly.
After installing the new video, I decided not to throw away the old one, but to try to revive it.
First you need to remove the plugs; this can easily be done with a knife.
Then the roller was thoroughly washed to remove dirt and old grease. For washing, gasoline or “646” solvent will do.
Shit instead of lube
Clean bearing
After washing, the roller was filled with new grease. It is better to use a specialized lubricant, but I used Litol.
Theoretically, Litol is quite suitable; it is designed to work in bearings and has an operating temperature from -40 to 120 degrees. The main thing is not to use “Solidol”, its operating temperature is up to 90 degrees, and it will simply melt and leak out. The restored bearing rotates smoothly and quietly, it will be in reserve.
https://www.drive2.ru/l/4750927/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376151764640/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/1441926/
next article:
Replacing the cylinder head gasket for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
Contents of the article: Milling and homemade desiccant from improvised means Homemade tripod for
Rating 0.00 [0 Vote(s)]
Motorists Council
As practice shows, many experienced VAZ 2110 drivers, who have been driving this particular model for many years now, carry an additional alternator belt with them in the trunk.
This is due to the fact that its breakdown can occur at the most inopportune moment. This node cannot be called the weakest point of the “ten”, but problems may arise with it. And it is better for you to be prepared for such a situation.
Otherwise, you will have to call a tow truck, go to the nearest service station, and pay a lot of money for the services of specialists. Although, if you have a spare alternator belt and a standard set of tools, if it breaks, you would spend literally a couple of tens of minutes and calmly continue driving with a new belt. Because the choice is always yours!
How to check belt tension in 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112
As you know, the operation of a belt drive allows the car's generator to convert energy, creating an electrical charge. If any part fails, the generator can no longer function normally. This is especially true for the belt. On a VAZ 2112, replacing the alternator belt is an important procedure that is carried out every 10 thousand km. Replacing the VAZ 2112 alternator belt can be done on your own. As mentioned above, the part needs to be changed in a timely manner, otherwise problems cannot be avoided. The main sign of failure of the alternator belt is cracks, which the driver of the vehicle must notice.
Note. The car manufacturer's instructions recommend changing the belt every 45 thousand km, but in practice this is not the case. Poor road conditions, incorrect initial driving style and much more negatively affect this part. Therefore 10,000 km. mileage is a feature that in practice determines replacement time.
Alternator belt: choice of brand and length
When the alternator belt wears out quite strongly, many owners begin to think about which manufacturer to choose for the next replacement. We often come across reviews from VAZ 2110 owners who installed new belts and did not have time to drive even 5,000 km, after which they broke in half.
This is a clear sign of low-quality or even defective products, if the tension was normal and there were no external influences.
Sources
- https://luxvaz.ru/vaz-2110/54-natyazhka-i-zamena-remnya-generatora.html
- https://pts.ru/razmery-remnya-generatora-vaz-2112-16-klapanov/
- https://venteler.ru/dlina-remnya-generatora-vaz-2110-16-klapanov-s-konditsionerom/
[collapse]
How to replace the Grant alternator belt
The replacement process is not simple and depends on the equipment of the car: whether there is a tensioner, air conditioning. In the latter case, you cannot do without a lift and dismantling the engine mount due to the air conditioning compressor clutch pulley.
For a Granta with air conditioning, for installation you will need to hang the wheel and remove one engine mount.
How to change a belt on a Grant 8 and 16 valve without air conditioning and tensioner
What you will need for work:
- a knife, if you just need to cut off an old part;
- crank or ratchet with head 13;
- long strong wire;
- flat screwdriver;
- partner – you can replace it yourself, but it’s easier with an assistant.
Step 1. Dismantling
The car is on a flat surface, neutral is engaged without the handbrake. Battery is disconnected.
If the old belt is not needed, we cut it in an accessible place and take it out.
If you need to save the old one, do everything up to step 3.
A replacement is needed with a length of 8223mm, six-wedge. Called 6RK 823. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 2. Remove the generator mount
We approach the generator mount with head 13:
- we remove the lower bolt by 2-3 turns;
- Use it to completely unscrew the top bolt.
In this situation, we proceed to installation. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 3. Raise the part
Scroll the generator up. The top mount becomes higher than the bracket to which it is screwed.
We press the part to the engine. We fix it with strong wire. For example, we hang it from the cylinder head bolt.
In this situation, we proceed to installation. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 4. Install a new one
We pull the new one onto the pulleys.
The installation takes place in the position of the generator when it is pressed against the engine. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
We engage fifth gear, push the car back, pressing the belt against pulley 1 in the picture. This is where a helper will come in handy.
As soon as we put it on, we work in reverse order:
- unplug the generator;
- press it into working position;
- return the upper mounting bolt and tighten the lower one.
Replacing the alternator belt on a Grant with air conditioning
It's more difficult here. Step by step:
- we drive the car onto a lift or overpass;
- remove the tensioner;
- take off the front right wheel;
- we support the internal combustion engine and dismantle the pillow;
- change the required part.
The whole problem is in points 5 (air conditioning compressor clutch) and 7 (right engine mount) - our belt passes through them (number 6). The rest: 1-drive of auxiliary devices, 2/3-tensioner, 4-generator. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
What you need
- new belt marked 6РК 995;
- spanners 8, 19;
- socket wrenches 8, 10;
- Torx keys T20, T27;
- ratchet with extension and heads E14, 17.
Step 1. Tensioner
The car is on a lift or overpass.
Open the hood. Remove the terminals from the battery.
We find the tensioner, take out the spanners 19 and 8:
- 19 we put on the lead screw;
- 8 hold the locknut;
- we touch;
- Turn the lead screw clockwise to loosen the tension.
We remove the lock nut and loosen the tension. PHOTO taken from: www.zr.ru
We need keys 8, 10. Remove:
- central shield (numbers 1, 5, 7);
- right shield (number 2).
Step 3. Wheel
Remove the front right wheel. Using keys 8, Torx t20, t27, we dismantle the fender liner according to the diagram.
To work with the fender liner you need three different keys. Having removed it, we gain access to the engine support. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 4: Engine Mount
Getting ready to remove the engine mount.
Using a wrench or ratchet with an E14 head, unscrew the screws securing the support to the engine.
Use head 17 to unscrew the screws securing the support to the body.
We remove the support. Make sure the weight of the engine is securely resting on the crankcase support. PHOTO: www.zr.ru
Step 5. Dismantling and installation
We remove the belt from the pulleys and rollers and pull it out.
We install the new one in the reverse order.
The final tension can be adjusted by adjusting the tensioner.
Replacement without power steering
First you need to check the tension to determine the degree of wear. A normal belt, naturally free of cracks, should bend by 10 or 15 mm if it is subjected to a force of 100 N or 10 kgf. The force must be applied exactly in the middle, right between the generator and the crankshaft pulley. If the tension is weak or, on the contrary, tight, you need to either adjust the part or replace it.
Replacement algorithm
Note. You need to remove the part by moving the generator as close to the cylinder block as possible.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing a 16 valve car
It is better to carry out the replacement on an inspection groove or overpass, so that it is convenient to work under the machine.
Tools
You should prepare for the replacement procedure by preparing:
- a set of keys;
- new consumables.
jack;
New alternator belt for replacement
Stages
The replacement procedure is different for cars equipped with and without power steering. Below we will consider both options.
Replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ 2112 16 valve with installed power steering consists of the following steps:
- First, remove the power steering fluid reservoir.
- Then, using a key set to “13”, you need to unscrew the nut, thanks to which the generator is attached to the mounting plate.
Generator drive with hydraulic booster - To remove the old strap, loosen the tension roller.
- To remove the dismantled part, you need to remove the motor from the support. First you need to unscrew the cushion, and then jack up the engine until a gap appears. We take out the belt through the gap formed.
- Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
- There are some nuances during installation. First, the tensioner must be clamped to its extreme position.
- Then you should tighten the belt on all the pulleys and lastly on the tension roller. This procedure is a little labor intensive.
- After complete installation, it is necessary to tension the belt. Using the hammer handle, press and fix the tensioner.
At this stage, the difference between cars with hydraulic booster appears - they do not have an adjusting bolt. Tension adjustment is done using a tension roller.
The procedure on a car without power steering is simpler:
- Using a “13” wrench, unscrew the generator mounting nut.
- We loosen the belt tension by turning the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10” counterclockwise.
- Having moved the generator towards the cylinder block, we remove the belt.
- Next, we put the new consumable on the drive by rotating the adjusting bolt.
- At the next stage, we tighten the strap using the adjusting nut. We move the generator as far as possible from the cylinder block. By rotating the adjusting bolt clockwise, we increase the tension, and counterclockwise, we loosen it.
- Then the crankshaft must be turned two turns and the tension checked again.