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Despite the global trends regarding the relatively low “landing” of cars, this is, frankly speaking, unacceptable for Russian roads. The achievements of the creators of the “ten” include the fact that the ground clearance on the VAZ 2110 is quite sufficient, one might say optimal for city conditions and paved roads (which for the most part leave much to be desired).

VAZ 2110 with lowered suspension

For what

Reasons to raise your rear suspension:

1. Of course, increased cross-country ability. When hitting bumps, the car's wheels hit, and many people raise the suspension to correct this problem.
2. Increased load capacity. If you load something heavy into the car, the springs cannot withstand it and the rear end drops significantly. To avoid this, you need to raise the rear suspension.

To raise the rear suspension of any of the three cars in question, spacers are needed. On the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2115 they look the same, but on the VAZ 2107 they are slightly different.

It is important to consider that when installing spacers the following changes:

• rear brake pressure regulator position;
• castor (the longitudinal inclination angle of the front wheels' turning axis).

Video

How to install spacers on a classic, see the following video:

Hello!

It's been a while since I wrote anything. It's frosty or all sorts of things. I don't want to do repairs in the cold. The keys stick to your hands. But there is nothing to do, we must go.

I covered my neighbor's entire garage with snow. He still doesn't show up here. I say sell it, it doesn’t sell))) My garage has no light, so I have to repair it with the gate open. My friends have already buzzed my ears. — Take the generator outside, start it, and close yourself. And warm and light. But somehow I can’t carry it with my hand; it stands under the workbench. And when the car is standing still, you can’t pull it out at all. Well, okay, I won’t worry about the painful things. And since many of my subscribers and others know that I made myself spacers from flange connections. For those not in the know, here is the link. Let's read and comment. On occasion, I bought some studs for my Niva hub. I also took 16 nuts from the field and a thread lock. Everything is extremely simple, just put it on a pin and screwed it into place.

Let me tell you right away that it sets within 24 hours. I screwed it in one day and assembled everything on the second day. I tried to unscrew one of the studs, but it didn’t work. Only the thread jams. The sealant is just a plague! Here's how the rear hub turned out

Everything is as simple as Anna’s in the pharmacy))) I screwed it on without fear that I would turn the pin)

They are almost invisible.

At one point I changed the handbrake cable.

I didn't suffer much.

I couldn’t screw the nut, I had to tighten the cable with a rope. Eh, I wish I had a third hand))) I’ve finished with the back, let’s move on to the front. I left the garage and drove backwards so that it would be easier to repair. Someone says (asked, clarified) that the wheels rub when turning, look at the photo anywhere and there is no hint of this. I specially wiped everything with a rag so that it could be seen. The second side is the same. I’m saving space under the photos, it’s bad that you can only put 20 pieces. So much remains behind the scenes, it’s even a pity. So much could be written and shown. In principle, there is nothing simple to describe here. I applied sealant and screwed it in. By the way, I screwed it in and tightened it with two nuts on the stud. Don't wrap your hands.

I screwed the spacers onto small 3 cm bolts with a 13mm wrench.

I wanted to do it differently but changed my mind. I couldn't find the required bolts for a Phillips screwdriver. The idea was this: take a bolt for a Phillips screwdriver and buy small bits. Insert the bits and weld them in place. The idea is not bad, but alas, it is not destined to come true. I see some advantages in this modification. The car on the road moves calmly and does not look for a rut. It takes turns with a bang. Now I go into turns without slowing down the gas. The wheel is very convenient to install, it hangs on the heels and you don’t have to hold it. The disc itself fits onto the hub very tightly, if there were no studs it would hang without them.

Someone asked to show how it was and how it became. It was

So it became

The spacers could have been made 15 mm. They will also enter and will not touch the arch. But this is the limit, if you put more, you need to roll the arch. It was freezing when it started, as you can see from the photos. And when I finished it became warm. And the roads floated along with the asphalt. But this is not worth talking about. Thanks to all! Bye, until new entries.

Issue price: 0 ₽

In the case when a car, when fully loaded, or sometimes when partially loaded, touches the wheel arch liners with its rear wheels, we want to lift the rear of the car. There are several ways here. The first is to replace the sagging standard springs with similar ones or reinforced ones. But there is a second option, putting spacers under the shock absorbers. at the same time, the construction length of the shock absorbers actually increases, the connecting dimensions are preserved, that is, the spacer + shock absorbers assembly can be installed in a regular place in the car.

It’s worth mentioning right away about the changes that will have to be taken into account: - you will have to adjust the position of the rear brake pressure regulator, - the direction of the light beams of the headlights; — it is necessary to adjust the pitch angle of the front wheels (caster).

If the first two parameters can be adjusted independently, then the castor will have to be adjusted at a service station, since this is actually the geometry of the wheels and without special ones. devices and equipment are indispensable here. I can say that, in principle, after installing such spacers on a VAZ 2110 car, I made adjustments only for the pressure regulator (sorcerer), adjusted the geometry in accordance with scheduled maintenance, after about 2000 km, adjusted the headlights using a manual hydraulic corrector from the interior. This may not be an ideal option, but it is nevertheless acceptable, especially since the spacers can be installed on a trial basis, that is, for a while. The cardinal method is still replacing the springs, which not only restores the height of the suspension, but also increases the comfort of its operation, well, that’s not what this article is about, so let’s continue. You can probably find spacers for shock absorbers in any car store; their cost is not high, and they look something like the photo below.

Next, we provide information on setting the angles of the front wheels for a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, 2171, 2172 in running order and with a payload of 320 kg (4 people) in the cabin and 40 kg of cargo in the trunk; the installation angles of the front wheels should be in within the following limits:

Installation angles of the front wheels of the car in running order (without driver, passengers and cargo):

It is to these values ​​that the angles should be adjusted after installing spacers under the rear shock absorbers.

Let's improve the VAZ 2110

To raise the rear suspension on a VAZ 2110 you need to:

1. Put the car on the handbrake.
2. Use help to lift the rear of the car so that the wheels are in the air and spin freely.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Unscrew the shock absorber mounting bolt. To do this you will need a key “19”.
5. Get the bolt. Perform a similar operation with the opposite shock absorber.
6. Take the spacer and determine on which side the distance from the base to the first hole is greater. The side where it is larger should be directed inward. The same spacer can be installed on both the right and left shock absorbers, since these devices are mirror symmetrical.
7. Install the spacer so that a line is drawn from the center of its lower hole to the upper hole, which falls into the vertical of the rack. You can install the spacer so that it is not adjustable in height by screwing the shock absorber into a single hole.
8. By unfolding the spacer, you can adjust the suspension height by screwing the strut into the upper or lower hole, but the device will then need to be placed on the opposite rear shock absorber.
9. When installing a spacer on an eye, it is important to install a bolt spacer so that the mechanism does not break during operation. You don't need to tighten the bolt too much, just make sure it fits snugly and doesn't wobble.
10. Install the strut mounting bolt into the holes in the spacer and shock absorber. The height can be adjusted by selecting the top or bottom holes.
11. Also install a spacer on the opposite shock absorber.
12. Adjust the rear brake pressure regulator by unscrewing its mounting bolt. Next, you need to move the bracket with something until the distance between the lever and the spring becomes 2 millimeters.
13. Check the functionality of the brake system. When braking hard at low speed, the rear axle should lock a little later than the front. If the rear wheels brake much later, then you need to reduce the distance from the lever to the mounting spring, and if it is too early, increase it.

Photo instructions

Communities › VAZ.EE › Blog › VAZ 2115- Front pillar spacer

All the best. After my post about lifting the car, I received a lot of questions, how? What? Where? etc. As a result, today I decided to tell you how it was done. The spacer is placed between the front strut support and the engine body. Depending on the make of the car, spacers have different shapes. In any case, the spacer on top follows the shape of the A-pillar support.

This photo shows SS20 spacers, 12 mm thick, which often come complete with supports. Such spacers can be made from different materials, but each material has its own disadvantages. Plastic ones are considered the safest for a car; it is assumed that they do not cause negative consequences. Polyurethane ones have a tendency to deform the body. Metal ones can speed up the corrosion process at the joints with the body, but this effect can be virtually neutralized by simply painting (and protecting with varnish) the spacers before installing them. If you have the appropriate tool or friends at the factory with a milling machine, then you can make such spacers yourself, of the thickness you need. I bought silumin spacers on the market:

To install the spacers we will need to remove the struts. There is no need to disassemble the strut, just remove it along with the hub. It seemed to me that this was the simplest option, which also did not affect the alignment. (You still need to do the wheel alignment, because it will eat more rubber, but getting to the service center is still safer). In order to do this, we need to unscrew 4 bolts and unscrew 4 nuts (not counting the removal of the wheel).

First of all, I would recommend looking at the ball mounting bolts; for most domestic cars, this is a 10mm bolt with a 17mm head. If so, then you are lucky and you should not experience problems with them. However, in recent years, our cars have begun to use foreign standards and you can see a smaller bolt head - an asterisk. A 10mm head fits perfectly on it, but most likely you won’t be able to unscrew it; you’ll tear off the corners. Therefore, you should think about purchasing a head for such bolts in advance. Also, you should take care of the steering rod puller in advance, especially if the car is not very new. My car is 3 years old and without a puller it was already difficult. The puller usually looks like a clamp, one of the pads of which has a cutout (looks like a two-pronged fork):

READ How to Install a Cake Fountain

Source

By replacing struts and shock absorbers

The method of installing spacers is the most effective and least expensive. The downside of installing this element is that the suspension becomes stiffer. To raise the rear suspension, you can replace the struts and shock absorbers. In this case, the service life of the entire suspension will be extended.

When raising the rear of the car using springs and shock absorbers, it is worth knowing that the height of the suspension does not depend on the strut, but the handling of the car does. To raise the rear suspension of the VAZ, it is worth buying longer springs, but you need to know the limit, since they may not fit into the struts. To prevent the car from sagging due to overload, it is worth installing stiffer springs; they are not always higher than the factory ones. You should not buy the toughest of them, as driving in such a car will turn into a test.

Rigid, because on the road the car will not tilt from side to side due to the slightest unevenness.

Some people install air suspension on domestic cars, then the ground clearance increases significantly, but the special convenience is that it can be adjusted.

When raising the rear suspension of a VAZ, you should know when to stop, since after all, this is not an SUV and the components of this car are not designed for such a load.

Engine lift 4cm / spar / stabilizer

In general, landing is landing. Style is style.

But I got tired of constantly straightening the protection because it was hitting the pallet. Touch the exhaust pipe. Rip it off sometimes. Rattle the pallet and crush it. Check the pan after every hard hole, etc. In addition, the grenades were broken and an engine lift would have corrected this. And by winter there will be less hemorrhage.

So it was time to lift the engine just in time for the end of the season. I will try to describe everything in as much detail as possible. All the nuances of the engine lift in Samara.

1. Stabilizer.

Before lifting the engine, I thought about what to do with the stub. After all: — it was flush with the spar, even with spacers for the ball. — the stub mounts are low and strike hard. — when lifting the engine, the pants or lambda will simply hit the stub.

Rear suspension of VAZ 2110

Beam, hubs and struts. And no electronics. A simple and unpretentious dependent suspension requires a minimum of attention, but you should never forget about it. Even with minimal wear of the silent blocks, the beam can affect the vehicle's handling in turns and directional stability. There are certain regulations for replacing rubber-metal bushings, but if we take into account a large number of manufacturers with not always high quality products, then it is better not to rely on the regulations.

The most correct indicator of replacing silent blocks is knocking or play in the rear suspension, which makes itself felt on uneven roads. But still, the main elements of the rear suspension of the VAZ 2110 remain shock absorber struts. In classic VAZ car models, the spring and shock absorber were installed separately, which made it possible to replace them separately. In front-wheel drive models, the elastic and damping elements are combined into one unit - a shock absorber strut.

Salon

Inside, the car looks just as boring and ascetic. There is a simple two-spoke steering wheel without an airbag, as well as a primitive instrument panel with a pair of arrow indicators.

On the sides of the visor there are large buttons, in which “hellish” backlashes appear over time. There were also gaps on the center console. By modern standards, it does not boast a range of options. But there is everything you need here - a clock, a stove and a shelf for a radio (it was not installed from the factory). A 12-volt cigarette lighter with backlight was provided at the bottom. The seats in the “ten” are fabric, with minimal lateral support. As reviews note, the seats in the “ten” are quite hard, but you can drive for short distances. The rear row of seats is designed for three people.

But in fact, only two fit here. It will be very crowded here for three people. Depending on the configuration, the machine could be equipped with:

• Air conditioning.
• Electric windows.
• Central lock.

Purpose of the rear pillar

Comfort and safety of movement in a car directly depends not only on the presence of air conditioning or a transparent windshield. A hard suspension will not add comfort, and an overly soft one will cause the car to roll over when cornering. Therefore, the suspension characteristics are carefully selected by the manufacturer. Now there is a great opportunity to adjust the suspension to a certain driving style or to the quality of the road surface. There are no such conditions in the basic configurations of the 2110, but adjustable suspensions in both height and stiffness can be considered as an option. Such systems are capable of changing suspension settings in real time for more comfortable or safer passage of sections of the route.

These are quite expensive systems, so it makes no sense to install dozens of them. But there are a lot of manufacturers who sell assembled struts, already configured for a sporty driving style or a more comfortable one. Sports shock absorbers and springs have shorter strokes, they are stiffer than stock ones and allow the brake force to be dosed more accurately and respond better to changes in direction of movement in emergency situations. Also, by installing such struts, we lower the vehicle's ground clearance, which also helps to improve handling in dynamic modes. But any racks need to be changed sooner or later.

Article: SPACER 2108 Samaresche, additional articles: 005443hide

Order code: 027008

Available for order – >10 pcs. Data updated: 08/25/2021 at 05:30

• Spacer VAZ-2108 rear shock absorber 35.55 set Article: SPACER 2108 Samar, 005443 Order code: 027008 375 ₽ or place an order by calling 8 800 6006 966

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When to change rear struts

Replacing the rear struts of a VAZ 2110 is carried out in cases where all the shock absorber resources have already been exhausted. Simply - humanly. Signs that indicate that the rack requires replacement are visible to the naked eye:

This is theoretical. But in practice, you just need to inspect the strut and if there are obvious signs of leaks, the shock absorber has outlived its usefulness. Also, the shock absorber rod must be in perfect condition. Any signs indicate that the stand will not last long. To be convincing, you can rock the back of the car. If, after vigorous rocking, the rear sags on its own at least once, the racks do not hold. Not to mention knocks and squeaks, this is understandable as it is.

Removing and replacing the rear struts takes about forty minutes if all threads are pre-treated with the magic composition WD40 or carburetor cleaning fluid. But the most effective way to combat stubborn rusty nuts is considered to be BSK brake fluid. It is a nasty red color, it smells, God forbid, but it will eat away dirt and rust in half an hour. After using one of these products, all nuts and bolts should come out without any problems.

Dismantling the rack starts from the top. The trunk trim is disassembled until you can get to the attachment point of the rack to the cup welded into the body. After this, you can unscrew the rack from the beam. You will have to play around there, but in extreme cases, you will have to use a gas torch to knock out the fastening bolt, which may rust to the bushing. After warming up, the bolt should come out. If we are only changing the strut, then we also need to pay attention to the spring. We will not notice microcracks with the naked eye, but its height should be at least 233-240 mm under load.

Technical characteristics of the “tens”

Initially, the car was equipped with a carburetor engine with 73 horsepower. What do reviews say about this VAZ-2110 engine? The motor did not differ in dynamic characteristics. Acceleration to hundreds took 14 and a half seconds. And the maximum speed barely reached 165 kilometers per hour. The carburetor required constant adjustment. And consumption in the city is about nine liters per hundred. In 2000, the “tens” came with a 1.5-liter injection engine. This unit was one and a half seconds faster than the previous one. In terms of fuel consumption, it is also more economical. A car spends up to eight liters of 92 per hundred in the city. Maximum speed is 170 kilometers per hour.

But the most valued in the lineup are the 1.6-liter engines. They came with both eight- and sixteen-valve timing mechanisms. These engines produced 81 and 90 horsepower, respectively. The “Ten” 1.6 accelerated to hundreds in 12-13.5 seconds. And the maximum speed was 180 kilometers per hour. In terms of fuel consumption, these engines were very economical - reviews say. VAZ-2110 consumed 7.5 liters in the combined cycle.

Wheel spacers for SS20 SPORT wheels

Wheel spacers (or wheel spacers) are an attribute of the sporty style of a car. Installing spacers under the wheels allows you to increase the wheelbase of the car, give it a more aggressive and sporty appearance, as well as improve driving dynamics, stability and controllability of the car.

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Applicability

• VAZ 2108-2199
• VAZ 2110-2112
• VAZ 2113-2115
• VAZ 1117-1119 (Lada Kalina)
• VAZ 2170-2172 (Lada Priora)
• VAZ 2190-2194 (Lada Granta)
• VAZ 2123
• VAZ 2121/2131
• Chevrolet NIVA
• Chevrolet Lacetti

Advantages of using SS20 wheel spacers in VAZ cars

• widens the vehicle track;
• gives the car a more aggressive and sporty look;
• makes it possible to install wider tires and rims on the car that differ in offset from the original ones;
• allows you to avoid wheel rims and tires from touching suspension parts;
• increases stability and reduces the likelihood of the vehicle tipping over during high-speed cornering;
• made of light and durable aluminum alloy, using high-precision equipment, with strict observance of parallelism and axial runout.

Guarantee

• Description
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Wheel spacers (or wheel spacers) are an attribute of the sporty style of a car. Installing spacers under the wheels allows you to increase the wheelbase of the car, give it a more aggressive and sporty appearance, as well as improve driving dynamics, stability and controllability of the car.

Wheel spacers are made of lightweight and durable aluminum alloy, using high-quality equipment, with strict observance of parallelism and axial runout. Spacers SS20 SPORT are designed for all brands of VAZ and Chevrolet Lacetti cars.

Wheel spacers SS20 for VAZ cars with a thickness of up to 12 mm inclusive are manufactured without a central shoulder. Over 12 mm thick with a central collar.

Centering the wheels of standard VAZ vehicles relative to the axis of rotation of the hub is carried out along the chamfers of the mounting holes of the wheel rims and the conical surfaces of the wheel bolts. The presence or absence of a central flange on the track expansion spacer does not in any way affect the alignment of the wheel relative to the hub. Those. Regardless of whether there is a shoulder on the spacer or no such shoulder, the wheel will in any case be centered on the hub using the bolts.

The wheel spacer itself is centered relative to the hub along the central hole, which fits onto the hub shoulder.

We accept orders for the production of wheel spacers of any complexity for all cars.

See also wheel alignment spacers and corner spacers produced by SS20 for VAZ cars.