Welcome! Alternator belt - on cars of the tenth family it goes to only two pulleys, namely the generator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, thanks to it torque is transferred from the crankshaft to the generator, thanks to which when the car is running (When the crankshaft is spinning), the car is charged, the battery is charged, and also the current is supplied to the on-board network of the car (This is a tape recorder, windshield cleaning brushes, etc.), therefore, when the engine is started, the battery no longer makes sense to supply current to the on-board network (It makes sense when the generator can handle it won’t, that is, music plays loudly when the subbuffer is on and similar situations), thanks to which the battery does not run out and the voltage in the network is kept at one constant level.
Note! To replace the alternator belt, you will need a minimum of time and a minimum set of tools, which includes: Wrenches or, even better, if you have ring wrenches, then stock up on them, because they are much easier to use and the likelihood of breaking the nuts will be much less!
Where is the alternator belt located? As we have already said, it is placed on two pulleys, one pulley rotates (This is the crankshaft pulley) and due to this, the belt is also set in motion, thereby the second pulley also begins to rotate (Both pulleys, by the way, are indicated by arrows, the same crankshaft pulley is shown in red, and blue generator pulley), in general, for clarity, in the bottom photo the belt itself can be clearly seen, as well as the generator and the place where it is installed.
When should you change the alternator belt? From time to time it needs to be checked, to do this, of course, you will have to remove it, but it can be removed very easily and you will spend more than 5 minutes on the entire check, so when the belt is removed, begin the inspection, there should be no cracks or marks on it ruptures, in addition, the material of the generator belt itself should be rubber, and not rough (That is, there should be no signs of hardening of the rubber), and if you have a toothed one, then make sure that the teeth are not worn out and are in normal condition.
Reasons for whistling
Let's look at the main reasons why the V-belt connection whistles. They boil down to this:
- The belt has low tension. At the same time, he slips, which is especially noticeable at night, when he whistles with special “zeal.” This is due to the fact that at night the generator is forced to work in increased mode, providing the car with light;
- The destruction has begun. It dries out and literally begins to fall apart. First, cracks appear, then pieces fall off. At the same time, it also whistles due to the fact that the bullies catch the pulley, contributing to slipping. It needs to be changed urgently;
- Moisture ingress occurs quite rarely, and it evaporates during operation. But if at the same time the V-belt connection whistles, this indicates that it is necessary to apply tension;
- Wedge of the generator itself.
In what cases does a car need to be replaced?
In what cases is it necessary to check and change the belt on a Lada Priora 8 or 16 valves, which belt is better to use, how to tighten the tensioner correctly?
First, let's look at the main signs of wear:
- First of all, the check is carried out if the strap begins to whistle. The whistle usually appears when starting the engine, increasing the speed, or activating electrical equipment. Sometimes fixing the problem involves tightening the strap by tightening the tension roller. If the tension is normal, there is a possibility that one of the drives, for example, a compressor or generator unit, is jammed. Also, the whistling may be due to wear of the bearing elements of the Conder clutch; all worn bearings must be replaced.
- With the motor turned off, you should carefully inspect the device. If it is clear that the strap has lost its elasticity or has become damaged in the form of cracks, delamination or tears, this indicates that it will soon have to be replaced.
- Looseness may also be due to wear on the tension roller.
- The car begins to shake when the electrical equipment is activated. This problem happens very rarely and usually in such cases car owners have no idea what to do. Reduced traction and shaking can be caused by high loads on the car's electrical network.
- The low battery indicator began to light up on the dashboard, and you are sure that the battery itself is functioning normally and is fully charged. But keep in mind that this problem may also be associated with wear of the component parts of the generator set, for example, brushes or rotor (video author - Vladimir Z).
Right size
Another reason why the connection whistles may be an incorrectly selected belt size. But this, as a rule, becomes clear immediately after installation. Therefore, you need to know the size before going to the car market or store. In fact, there are quite a lot of sizes, as if the designers selected the length individually for each model.
Timing belt Contitech VAZ 2110 (16kl.)
Here are the main sizes that should fit the “ten”:
- If there is no power steering and air conditioning, take the size 742 mm;
- The VAZ 2110 generator belt with power steering is 1115 mm long;
- With air conditioning, even more – 1125 mm.
It is also possible that the size of Kalina or Priora will suit you.
Belt Contitech VAZ - 1119 Lada Kalina
Tension adjustment
If you discover that the V-belt drive is not yet worn out, but is whistling, you must first check its tension. According to the book, its deflection with a force of 10 kg/cm2 (100 N) should be 10 - 15 mm. To put it simply, you just need to press it approximately in the middle with some force.
If the tension is correct, then the deflection will be 6 - 8 millimeters. If it is more, it needs to be tightened, if less, it needs to be loosened. And it's not just that he whistles. If the tension is weak, then the battery charges less well, and the drive wears out faster. If the tension is too strong, there is a risk of failure of the generator bearings and the belt stretches.
We carry out the necessary adjustments as follows:
- Loosen the generator mounting nuts from the bottom and top;
- By turning the adjusting bolt, we make the adjustment: - To increase the tension, turn the bolt to the right - this moves the generator away from the cylinder block; — To loosen, turn the bolt to the left - bringing the generator closer;
- Having hooked the key onto the mounting bolt, turn the crankshaft two turns and check the tension again;
- If everything is fine, tighten the fastening nuts.
Work progress:
- Using a 13mm socket or socket wrench, you need to loosen the nut of the generator lower mounting bolt.
After this, use a 13mm spanner to loosen the tightening of the lower fastening nut.
- After this, use a 10 key to adjust the belt tension (clockwise - tighten, counterclockwise - loosen).
We check the tension, turn the crankshaft pulley a little and check it again and, if necessary, loosen it or tighten it further. If everything is in order with the tension, then tighten the tension bar nut and then the nut of the lower generator mounting bolt.
Replacement
To change the belt, it is better to remove the front right wheel, hang the front part, remove the crankcase protection (standard or installed independently), then:
- Loosen the nuts securing the generator;
- Unscrew the adjusting bolt as much as possible;
- We move the generator as close to the cylinder block as possible;
- We remove the old belt and put on a new one.
Next, we adjust the tension and tighten everything. At this point the repair can be considered complete.
Source
Step-by-step instructions for replacing the timing belt
Engine 8 valves.
- Loosen the locking nut of the generator tensioning device (key 13) and unscrew the adjusting screw (head 10) to the maximum. We take the generator to the cylinder block and remove the generator drive belt.
- We dismantle the plastic protective cover of the timing belt by unscrewing three bolts (10 wrench). Plastic timing cover.
Set top dead center (TDC)
- We turn the crankshaft clockwise until the mark on the camshaft toothed pulley and the curved edge on the metal casing coincide.
Camshaft mark.
- We remove the generator belt drive pulley by unscrewing the bolt by 17, you will need a wrench with an extension and a pipe as a lever, since the bolt must be well tightened.
- The mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley should also coincide with the low cast mark on the oil pump. Crankshaft mark. We dismantle the tension roller together with the timing belt by unscrewing the nut (head 17). Next, unscrew the bolt 17 and remove the camshaft pulley. To avoid losing the key, you can secure it with electrical tape. It is advisable to replace the camshaft and crankshaft pulley. Fastening the tension roller.
Replacing the pump
- We remove the metal protection, unscrew the 10 nut on top and the three bolts on the bottom securing the water pump. We take out the old water pump.
Pump mount.
- Before installing a new pump, apply a thin layer of sealant to its gasket. After installing the pump in place evenly, in several passes, tighten its mounting bolts.
How to tension the alternator belt
There are times when when the car gets into a puddle, or simply when there is high humidity, the alternator belt begins to whistle. Often the reason lies precisely in insufficient tension. Of course, to fix this problem, you just need to tighten the belt to the desired level.
The tool you will need to solve this problem:
- head for 10 and 13 mm;
- ratchet handle.
So, depending on the VAZ 2110-2112 model and the installed engines, the design of the alternator belt tensioner may differ slightly. But in essence, there is not much difference and everything is done by analogy.
- So, open the hood of the car and look towards where the generator is located.
- Loosen the top nut securing the generator and use the adjusting bolt to tighten it.
Pay attention to the fact that if it is necessary to tighten the belt, the bolt must be tightened on the rod clockwise. If, on the contrary, you decide to loosen the tension, then unscrew the adjusting bolt counterclockwise.
Video “Features of belt tensioning on Priora”
The main features and nuances of this process are shown in the video below (author - channel A little bit of everything).
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How to tension the alternator belt
Many car owners are interested in the question: how to tighten the alternator belt? After all, the battery charge level and the voltage in the car’s electrical network depend on this. Also, the condition of the belt itself, as well as the condition of the crankshaft bearings and the generator shaft, depend on how the generator belt is tensioned. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly tension the alternator belt with a specific example.
Video instructions for tensioning or loosening the alternator belt on a VAZ 2110-2112
To show everything clearly and clarify the picture, I decided to record a short video that contains instructions in an accessible form:
First, make a few turns and try to tighten the belt, perhaps this will be enough to prevent it from squealing. And it's quite easy to check. Start the car with the lights and other electrical devices turned on as much as possible (high beams, heated rear window, heater, etc.) If at this time the whistle is not heard, then the belt is properly tensioned.
But you shouldn’t forget about the constriction, and this shouldn’t be allowed. If you hear that a strange hum suddenly begins to appear from the side of the generator, most likely due to a tightened belt, the bearing is humming, then you urgently need to loosen the tension a little until the sound goes away.
Source
Why does the whistle occur?
There are several reasons why the characteristic whistle-like sound occurs.
- Weak tension. The element slips, and this happens most actively at night. The increased intensity of the whistle at night is explained by the fact that the generator additionally works for lighting.
- Gradually the component is destroyed. The belt can dry out, causing its structure to be disrupted and it literally crumbles into pieces. The first signs are cracks, and then whole pieces break off. When moving, the pulley hits and slipping begins. Only replacement is required here.
- Although moisture gets on the belt very rarely and evaporates almost immediately, the connection can still whistle. In this situation, tension is required.
- The generator itself jams.
Dimensions
It is quite possible that you have selected the wrong alternator belt size for your 16 valve VAZ 2110. This often causes whistling. The correct size of the alternator belt for the 8 valve VAZ 2110 should be determined in advance, even before going to the auto parts store.
The sizes are different, and they are individual for each VAZ model.
If we talk specifically about the “ten”, then adhere to the following rules for choosing a belt size:
- In the absence of air conditioning and power steering, 742 millimeters is suitable;
- If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster, then the size will be 1115 millimeters;
- If an air conditioner is also present, then the optimal size is 1125 millimeters.
Some craftsmen regularly use original belts from other AvtoVAZ models - Priora and Kalina - to replace them when repairing their "ten".
Performing tension
If there is no wear on the V-belt drive, but there is a whistle, first of all, check the tension level. We will not use complex terminology, but will simply advise you to press with some force on the belt in the middle.
If the tension is done correctly, then the belt will bend no more than 8 millimeters. If the deflection is greater, then the element will have to be tensioned, and if it practically does not deflect, the tension will have to be loosened. The problem is not the whistling. Due to weak tension, the battery does not charge effectively, and the drive itself begins to wear out faster. Excessive tension can lead to damage to the alternator bearings and stretching of the belt.
Correct tension of the VAZ 2110 generator belt is performed as follows:
- Loosen the generator from the bottom and top. A nut is used for this;
- Turn the adjusting bolt and adjust the belt;
- If you want to increase the tension, the bolt is turned to the right. Thus, you move the generator away from the cylinder block;
- To loosen the tension, move in the opposite direction - to the left;
- Use a wrench to grab the fastening bolt and turn the crankshaft a couple of turns, then check the tension;
- If all is well, the tension is correct, the nut can be tightened back.
Installing a new timing belt
- A new timing kit from Gates was purchased.
- The kit includes a toothed belt and a tension roller. VAZ 2110 timing kit.
We also check the tension during periodic monitoring.
Tighten the tension roller fastening.
Do not overtighten the timing belt as this will apply increased force to the pump bearing and it will not last for a long time.
The entire operation took approximately 30 minutes. Since this procedure does not require hanging the engine, you can do it yourself in the field, and if the pump does not change, then you don’t even need to remove the wheel.
Replacement
We have already figured out how to tighten the alternator belt. But such measures are not always relevant. If the element is cracked, overstretched and no longer tensioned, then there is nothing left to do but replace it with a new one.
In fact, replacement cannot be called a complex procedure. Follow the instructions and everything will work out.
- Slightly loosen the bolt nut from the lower mounting of the car generator, as well as the tension nut.
- Loosen the tension of your belt further. You already know how to do this from the previous section, where we talked about tensioning the alternator belt.
- Move the generator towards the power unit, which will allow you to remove the belt from the crankshaft and generator pulleys.
- The next step is to install a new element. To do this, you will need a high-quality belt purchased from a trusted store. What exactly this part will be and what size it will be is not difficult to determine. But quality comes first.
- First, the belt is put on the crankshaft pulley.
- Now it goes to the generator pulley.
- At the last stage, you have to repeat the tension adjustment procedure. You already know very well how this procedure is carried out, so there should be no problems.
Motorists Council
As practice shows, many experienced VAZ 2110 drivers, who have been driving this particular model for many years now, carry an additional alternator belt with them in the trunk. This is due to the fact that its breakdown can occur at the most inopportune moment. This node cannot be called the weakest point of the “ten”, but problems may arise with it. And it is better for you to be prepared for such a situation.
Otherwise, you will have to call a tow truck, go to the nearest service station, and pay a lot of money for the services of specialists. Although, if you have a spare alternator belt and a standard set of tools, if it breaks, you would spend literally a couple of tens of minutes and calmly continue driving with a new belt. Because the choice is always yours!
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